harrods: watches & fine jewellery

El ToroPatented Perpetual Calendar. Self-winding movement.

Platinum case with ceramic bezel. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Also available in rose gold 18 ct and/or leather strap.

Limited to 500 pieces.

T h e F i n e W a t c h R o o m , G r o u n d F l o o r

Caliber rM 021“AERODYNE”

Manual winding tourbillon movementBaseplate of honeycombed orthorhombic

titanium aluminide / carbon nanofiberPower reserver: circa 70 hours

Torque indicatorPower reserve indicator

Function selectorVariable inertia, free sprung balance

Fast rotating barrel (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)

Winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion with central involute profile

Barrel pawl with progressive recoilModular time setting mechanism

fitted against the case backFree sprung balance with overcoil

Wheel based time setting system (back of the movement)Closure of the barrel cover by excentric screws

Ceramic endstone for the tourbillon cageCentral bridge in rigidified ARCAP

Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges and case

a r a C i N G M a C H i N e O N T H e W r i S T

bOUTiQUe riCHarD MilleThe FIne WATCh ROOM, GROUnD FLOOR

to touch your heartFrédérique Constant and Nina Badric share one passion: Supporting the International Children’s Heart Foundation. We will donate the cost of a life-saving heart scan for eac Frédérique Constant Double Heart Beat watc sold.

Made by hand

The Fine Watc Room, Ground Floor

HIGH ROLLERSThe latest super-exclusive, highly collectible timepieces are the stuff of fantasy for serious watch connoisseurs

DIVING BELLESThe new generation of professional diving watches fuses technical prowess with the latest and cleverest design flourishes

AHEAD OF HIS TIMEFerdinand A. Lange revolutionised the world of watchmaking; now his great-grandson has paid tribute to him with a collection of three exquisite timepieces

MR & MRSBehind every great man’s watch stands a marginally smaller woman’s, matched perfectly in elegance and style

TECHNO-FILESThe engineering of watchmaking is an art form all of its own, with boundaries continually pushed by the genius few

HAUTE HOROLOGY HOTBEDThe new Fine Watch Room at Harrods contains Europe’s largest collection of luxury timepieces, carefully curated to provide the perfect selection for both international and local clientele

FLYING THE FLAGFine watchmaking used to be as Swiss as Emmental cheese and cuckoo clocks – until two British brothers challenged the established wisdom with their new line of timepieces

THE ULTIMATE SPORTS ACTIONThe latest creation from Parmigiani – the Bugatti Super Sport – is as sleek and revolutionary as you would expect. And it’s breaking records, too

LES DÉFILÉS DE MODEInspired by yesteryear’s haute couture houses, the ’50s silhouette is enhanced by statement jewels and elegant fine timepieces

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Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 11

CONTENTS

Fine watches

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HARRODS MAGAZINE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DEBORAH BEE

ART DIRECTOR BARNEY PICKARD

DEPUTY EDITOR FLEUR FRUZZA

SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB

CHIEF SUB-EDITORS LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON

JUNIOR SUB-EDITOR NICOLA CORFIELD

PRODUCER LISA BONNICI

ART EDITOR SONJA BURRI

SENIOR DESIGNER NATALIE MOSQUERA

JUNIOR DESIGNER RACHEL ESCUDIER

FASHION WRITER LAURA JORDAN

STAFF WRITER AMY BROOMFIELD

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT LOUISE FISH

DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK

FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH

PICTURE RESEARCHER EMILY SELLERS

MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR MITCHELL BELK

PUBLISHER BETH HODDER

PUBLISHING COORDINATOR SUZY CHAPMAN

PUBLISHING ASSISTANT ALETHEA QUARTEY

PRODUCTION MANAGER HAYLEY ELLIS

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT CAMILLA JOSEPHS

HARRODS STORE IMAGE, MEDIA AND MARKETING

DIRECTOR OF FINE JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES ABIGAIL RAINER

IMAGE DIRECTOR MARK BRIGGS

DIRECTOR OF CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT CHIARA VARESE

HEAD OF MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS AMBER PEPPER

MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR GUY CHESTON

MEDIA MANAGER, FASHION ACCESSORIES VALENTINA TROTTA

MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, FASHION ACCESSORIES

SOPHIE MIDDLETON, LUCINDA ANDREWS

GENERAL MERCHANDISING MANAGER, FINE JEWELLERY & LUXURY WATCHES

HUSSEIN PAREKH

BUYER, LUXURY WATCHES WILLIAM BLAKE

TRAINEE BUYER, FINE JEWELLERY CAMILLA GYLLO

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES +44 (0)20 7225 5783/5996/5706

PRODUCTION

REPRODUCTION ZEBRA

PRINT PRODUCTION WYNDEHAM [ROCHE] LIMITED

HARRODS, 87—135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge,

London SW1X 7XL

T: +44 (0)20 7730 1234 F: +44 (0)20 7225 6633

www.harrods.com

All information and prices are correct at time of going to press. We hope you enjoy

reading Harrods Magazine. As we are committed to providing the highest level of customer

service possible, we would love to hear any comments that you may have.

Please email [email protected]

ADMIRAL’S CUP DEEP DIVE

Over 300 Premier League, Champions League and

International games, PFA Young Player of the Year

2010 and FA Cup Winner 2011.

For James Milner and his Corum watch,

each day is a fresh challenge.

The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

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MUST-HAVES

The latest super-exclusive, highly collectible timepieces are the stuff of

fantasy for serious watch connoisseurs PHOTOGRAPHER ANDY BARTER


HighROLLERS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Roger Dubuis Excalibur £190,900; Bulgari Gerald Genta Grande Sonnerie £588,000; Hublot King Power Tourbillon £143,600; De Grisogono Occhio Ripetizione Minuti £318,200; Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo £114,000

14 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com

NEWS

ORIS PRO DIVER

Since 1960, when Corum created the first model in its now signature collection, the Admiral’s Cup, the brand has been synonymous with the high seas. As a watchmaking house actively involved in sailing, Corum has amassed decades of expertise in nautical timepieces, the most recent of which is the Admiral’s Cup Seafender 48 Deep Dive. This model can withstand 100-bar pressure, which means it can be worn at depths of up to 1,000m, while a decompression valve vents any build-up of helium. The hands and hour markers carry a luminescent coating for visibility even in the darkest waters. £8,800

Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

FROM LEFT Panerai Submersible £6,200;

Richard Mille RM 028 Saint-Tropez £63,500;

Audemars Piguet Diver watch £13,530

Necessity is the mother of invention, but Oris is not a brand that waits for necessity. This Swiss watchmaker is on a constant quest to make new breakthroughs in technology. The most recent of these is the Pro Diver. The innovations in this piece include a vulcanised rubber ring around the bezel that offers double protection, and a coated barrier at the side of the bezel, which protects the crown and chronograph pushers. £2,750

Horological thoroughbreds don’t come much more thorough than Breguet. Founded in 1775, the brand had a fan in King Louis XVI and his wife, Queen Marie Antoinette, and was chronometer maker to the French Navy. Today, centuries of knowledge are fused with hi-tech innovations to create Breguet’s Marine collection. The new Marine Chronograph 5827 in 18kt rose gold is water resistant to 100 metres, and features a 12-hour totaliser and a subdial for seconds. £30,700

The new generation of professional diving watches fuses technical prowess with the latest and cleverest design flourishes

Diving belles

The brand usually associated with being 35,000 feet in the

air has applied its expertise in extreme pressure

conditions to a line of watches designed to withstand the deepest waters. The newest

addition to Breitling’s Superocean line – the

Superocean 44 with Breitling’s 17 calibre movement – is water-resistant to a staggering 2,000

metres, with a safety valve that balances out pressure both inside and outside the case. £4,940

BREITLING SUPEROCEAN 44 Corum Admiral

Richard Mille is, quite simply, the watch aficionado’s watchmaker. His are highly technical, highly covetable and innovatively designed timepieces. And the RM 028 Diver St Tropez demonstrates why. Evolved from Mille’s original RM 025 Diver watch, the new RM 028 has a smaller dial diameter of 47mm. The intricate design of its skeleton movement belies the RM 028’s durability; the tough tripartite case makes the model water-resistant to 300 metres. £63,500

PHOTOGRAPHER TED HUMBLE-SMITH

Breguet

EL PRIMERO by Zenith, inventor of the

high-frequency self-winding chronograph

ZENITH, THE PIONEER SPIRIT SINCE 1865

EL PRIMERO

CHRONOMASTER OPEN


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company began making pocket watches, much of the traditional clockmaking mechanics did not work, so he developed methods of his own. Among his inventions was the three-quarter plate, a small nickel plate that enhances the stability of the watch’s movement. He was also responsible for replacing the old-fashioned Parisian lignes with the metric system and for introducing the millimetre as the primary unit of measurement in watchmaking. A typical A. Lange & Söhne watch features a mechanical movement in gold or platinum, rather than a quartz movement. Also, they are often made with highly distinctive Swiss features, such as “bridges” (back plates sometimes replaced with a series of plates and bars) and the “balance cock” (the bracket that holds the balance wheel, the equivalent of a pendulum in a clock).

For 100 years, A. Lange & Söhne enjoyed great success with some of the finest clocks and pocket watches in history, but this success was interrupted by World War II. The factory was destroyed during a bombing raid and was forced into a 50-year hiatus. It was Walter Lange, Ferdinand’s great grandson, who brought the company back from the brink. He was conscripted, and he returned injured. But he was determined to rebuild his great-grandfather’s business – and he did, in just four years.

Perhaps one of the most famous watches created by the brand after the war was the Lange 1. This model embodies all the skills and technical developments created across the entire dynasty of watchmakers, with traditional elements such as the three-quarter plate and the hand-engraved balance cock with the whiplash precision index adjuster. The manufacture of this watch represents not only the style and mechanics of the brand but also the company’s perseverance, as much of Lange’s discoveries were lost when the factory was destroyed. Last year, A. Lange & Söhne released a range of limited-edition watches as an homage to the brand’s founder. The 165 Year Anniversary Edition is a collection of three watches that adopt traditional mechanics, but with the addition of a moon-phase indicator, a guilloché engraved dial and a gold finish. Ferdinand would’ve been proud. HMN


THIS PAGE, FROM TOP A. Lange & Söhne founder Ferdinand A. Lange; A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin in 18kt pink gold £14,700; Lange 1 in 18kt yellow gold £21,100 OPPOSITE PAGE Walter Lange, who brought the company back to life after WWII; A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” in 18kt yellow gold £130,500

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MUST-HAVES

Behind every great man’s watch stands a marginally smaller woman’s, matched

perfectly in elegance and style

PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS TURNERDEPUTY FASHION EDITOR

POPPY ROCK

LEFT, FROM TOP Audemars Piguet Millenary £30,630; Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso £10,700; Cartier Ballon Bleu £24,000; Piaget Dancer £35,800; Blancpain Villeret £12,370

RIGHT, FROM TOP Audemars Piguet Millenary £11,980; Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso £5,500; Cartier Ballon Bleu £14,000; Piaget Dancer £25,600; Blancpain Villeret £10,230


A high-octane

mechanical tribute to the

automobile spirit

L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon. High-end mechanical watchmaking and the best of motor sports meet and mingle in a handsome and powerful timepiece. This limited-edition model celebrating Chopard’s 150th anniversary vividly embodies the spirit of automobiles, a world with which the brand has enjoyed strong ties over several decades. It is driven by a hand-wound tourbillon movement machined – and signed – like an engine block and mounted on shock-absorbing silent-blocks. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and endowed with a 60-hour power reserve, this mechanical L.U.C Calibre 1TRM was designed, developed and produced by Chopard Manufacture and its impressive precision is chrono-meter-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. Other subtle nods to classic motor racing include the gleaming titanium “bodywork” of the case, curving lugs shaped like aerodynamic car wings, as well as four reinforced inserts on the strap reminiscent of historical car seats.

L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon: available in a limitednumbered series of 150 in titanium, in honour of Chopard’s 150th anniversary, ref. 168526-3001.

Chopard Boutique, The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

The Piccadilly Princess

FINE WATCHES


Designing the world’s largest room dedicated to luxury timepieces can’t be that hard, can it? Eva Jiricna, the Czech retail design expert charged with the task, doesn’t agree. Particularly as she needed it to sit easily next to the

neighbouring and equally prestigious Fine Jewellery Room, which she also designed six years ago.

“This is Europe’s largest watch collection,” says Jiricna, the elegant, silvery-bobbed principal of her own London-based architectural practice, whose glamour and good taste are demonstrated through a cool cream trench, beaten metal bangles and a minimal bracelet watch. “I wanted to extend the fine jewellery experience but watches have a different character. They are much more masculine, much more serious. So we needed a similar concept but aimed at a different kind of client.”

Over the 128 years that Harrods has been in its current building, many architects and interior designers have wrestled with its size and the shape of its rooms. The flat Brompton road frontage hides a curved, irregular pentagon-shaped building that sits on Hans Road, Hans Crescent and Basil Street. The new Fine Watch Room is a slice of the ground floor that at different times has housed an ice cream parlour and a pizza restaurant.

“The shape of the new room was something of

Haute horology hotbedThe new Fine Watch Room at Harrods contains Europe’s largest collection of luxury timepieces, carefully curated to provide the perfect selection for both international and local clienteleBY ANN HAVERSHAM/ANIMATION MAINFRAME


a challenge in its own right,” says Jiricna. “My job as an architect is to create ‘wow’ – that’s different things for different people. There’s a ceiling in that room that has been there for years and we wanted to make a feature of that although it’s not in the best condition throughout the room. So we made a circular cutout in the lower ceiling to reveal the original beams and cornicing. I think its important to keep Harrods in its own context – some people come here hoping to see some heritage, and I try to enhance the history.”

The approaches to the new area replicate those that existed already: dark tunnels that act as a transition from the Food Halls. Jiricna believes it’s important to have breathing space between the rooms. “Then at the end of the tunnel you find a surprise – a little bit of magic,” she says.

Meanwhile, the room itself has three circular counters that sit beneath the original section of ceiling, which almost appears to hover above the black carpeted and granite floor. Individual boutiques are spaced around the edge of the room. The doorways to each boutique are flanked by two clear glass columns that house display cabinets.

“We have used masculine materials like black granite, and a French glass that has a metallic 3D treatment, so it looks silvery and sculpted,” says Jiricna. “The black carpet joins the granite almost invisibly so that the line of the room is unbroken for the entire length. The carpet is Swedish, imprinted with vinyl and very luxurious and soft, so if something is accidentally dropped it won’t get damaged. You have to think about those things when you are designing for a space like this. The ceiling outside of the cutaway section is black too, and there are sandblasted panels hanging from it, featuring a pattern made up of watch parts.”

The hardest part of the job for Jiricna, however, has been getting the lighting right. In the olden days, watches were most often displayed flat, making the lighting relatively easy. Today, most watches are shown upright, with the face up, and the straps done up behind them, which requires 3D lighting.

“Watches are small and you need to be able to see every single detail, so that means serious lighting,” explains Jiricna. “Also, the customers aren’t going to have the sharpest eyes in the world (as you age, you see less detail) – if we were designing a toy department, life would be a lot easier!”

“I never forget why I’m here. My purpose is to sell products, and I need to create the best possible conditions to display them. I love the contrast of the granite with the glass and the sparkling light. People need to feel uplifted. They need to feel that the object that they are buying is worth the investment, so a luxurious atmosphere is required throughout. And the more sparkle you create, the more magical it all becomes.” HMN

FINE

JEWELLERY

2012

£3 2012

WATCHES 2012

WATCH BOUTIQUES

A. Lange & Söhne

Audemars Piguet

Breguet

Chanel

Hublot

IWC

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Omega

Panerai

Richard Mille

Rolex

Vacheron Constantin

Vertu

BRANDS

Baume & Mercier

Bell & Ross

Blancpain

Breitling

Bremont

Celsius X VI II

Corum

De Grisogono

Franck Muller

Frédérique Constant

Girard-Perregaux

Hermès

John Isaac

Longines

Maurice Lacroix

Montblanc

Oris

Parmigiani

Philip Stein

Rado

Roger Dubuis

TAG Heuer

Ulysse Nardin

Zenith

The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor


PROVENANCE

An obsession with aviation has led to both success and tragedy in the lives of Nick and Giles English. The air crash that led to the death of their father and left Nick with 30 broken bones created a determination in the brothers to follow their dreams; both forwent careers in the city to take up aircraft restoration. A forced landing in a French field a year later

was also turned into a positive; the owner of the land – a farmer and former WWII pilot – befriended the brothers and showed them a wristwatch he had been given by his father as a boy. The watch mirrored the craftsmanship and quality that the brothers hoped to emulate in a new brand of fine timepieces that they had been considering setting up. The first British luxury watch brand was thus launched and, inspired by the farmer – Monsieur Antoine Bremont – the English brothers called their brand Bremont.

Bad timing isn’t something that the brothers were prepared to accept either; the economic downturn has simply meant greater availability of Swiss parts with which to construct their timepieces. After five years of development, Bremont produced its first luxury watch in 2007.

Aviation is a recurring theme in all the designs; many feature technical complications, including automatic chronometers. But the USP of the brand is its overwhelming air of Englishness. The brothers wanted to create a watch that would be as at home in the boardroom as it would be in extreme conditions – such as those endured by an impressive roster of adventuring brand ambassadors. Mountaineer Jake Meyer, polar explorer and long-distance skier Ben Saunders, adventurer and motorcyclist Charley Boorman, Olympic skier Graham Bell, explorer Bear Grylls and free diver Sara Campbell have all worn their Bremonts in the field, reinforcing the brand’s maxim: “tested beyond endurance”.

The resulting watch collection is entirely handmade and ready for action. Cases are constructed from stainless steel that is seven times harder than the average; similarly, the convex sapphire crystal is toughened and has nine layers of anti-reflective coating; and the 15-

day chronometer movement is accurate to between -4 and +6 seconds per day. Further durability against extremes of temperature, shock, magnetic fields and water resistance (up to 1500m) allows

for maximum usability. And in terms of design, limited editions have been created through collaborations with Jaguar and, continuing the aviation connection, the

1944 Mustang WWII aircraft. Such is the demand for Bremonts, the brand is now one of the world’s top 20 most prolific chrono producers.

Since its launch, Bremont has scooped a clutch of awards, including

two from the prestigious Walpole organisation, and Watch Brand of the

Year 2011 at the UK Jewellery Awards. Its innovative designs and construction, as well

as its strong commercial appeal, have proved that the English brothers’ dreams have come true. For

Bremont, the sky is, apparently, not the limit. HMN

Flying the flagFine watchmaking used to be as Swiss as Emmental cheese and cuckoo clocks – until two British brothers challenged the established wisdom with their new line of timepieces

FROM LEFT Bremont P-51 £7,450 and ALT1-P £3,450. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

Mountaineer Jake Meyer

Free diver Sara Campbell

Polar explorer and long-distance skier

Ben Saunders

Explorer Bear Grylls

ULTIMATE

The Ultimate

When the worlds of super cars and haute horlogerie collide, you know the result is bound to get hearts racing, even more so when the brands in question are Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani and French racing car designer Bugatti. The Super Sport is the third collaboration between the two brands, the first of which – in 2004 –saw Parmigiani revolutionise the watchmaking world by placing the entire movement of the Bugatti Type 370 on a transverse axis like a racing motor.

This spirit of audacious design continues to Parmigiani’s latest sensation, the Bugatti Super Sport, an aesthetic and technical triumph. For the latest model, Parmigiani has achieved a world first by flipping the components

onto a vertical axis, a fiendishly difficult feat that enables drivers to keep focus on the face. An open-worked dial reveals the mechanics of the 337 components, while the curves of the watch and the carbon fibre hour wheel echo the aerodynamic lines of the Veyron automobile.

Parmigiani has forced us to rethink watch design. The Super Sport was worn by Bugatti test driver Pierre-Henri Raphanel when he broke the world land-speed record (for production sports cars) driving the Bugatti Veyron at 431 km/h. It’s no wonder they’re calling it the fastest watch in the world.£218,000. Limited edition of 30 pieces. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

The latest creation from Parmigiani – the Bugatti Super Sport – is as sleek and revolutionary as you would expect. And it’s breaking records, too

PHOTOGRAPHER ANDY BARTER

Sports action

Harrods Magazine • harrods.com26

FOLLOW YOURCONVICTIONS

“I DON‘T WANT TO BE LIKE YOU. I DON‘T WANT TO THINK LIKE YOU. I‘M GOING TO BE LIKE ME.“From „Looking after number one“ – Bob Geldof 1976

From starting a band to receiving a knighthood, Sir Bob Geldof has stayed true to himself in everything he does. At Maurice Lacroix, we create our unique movements and award-winning designs by hand – because, like Sir Bob, we too follow our convictions.

Masterpiece Double Rétrograde

The Fine Watch Room,

GROUND FLOOR

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 Small Second

Pink gold case, sapphire case back,

Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement.

Hour, minute and small second.

The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor.

CHANELCoco Chanel’s inimitable spirit remains at the heart of the Chanel brand. In fashion, this translates simply, with a reinvention of her beloved pearls, tweed and diamonds for one generation after the next. In terms of timepieces, the contemporary Chanel approach is to match Mademoiselle Chanel’s audacious design ethos and quest for uncompromised quality. Each watch from the House of Chanel resembles a fine piece of jewellery made in a chic Parisian style. The latest models in the J12 collection include the J12 Marine, the J12 Chromatic and the J12 Calibre 3125. Still using the sea as a source of inspiration, the masculine nature of the J12 design is reinforced by high-performance materials like flexible rubber, intensely black ceramic, black lacquered dials and rhodium-plated yellow gold polished to a mirror finish. Meanwhile, the J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse continues to fascinate technology fans with its unique vertical crown – that, and the clever way it has of sliding time backwards. Very mysterious.

FROM LEFT Chanel Rétrograde Mystèrieuse Tourbillon in pink gold £176,475;

J12 Calibre 3125 42mm automatic in black ceramic and yellow gold £15,875;

J12 Chromatic 41mm automatic £4,150; and J12 Marine 42mm automatic with

blue bezel and rubber strap £3,325

TAG HEUERA need for speed was the design ethos defined for TAG Heuer when Steve McQueen wore the first Monaco square-case, water-resistant watch in the film Le Mans, back in the ’70s. The new-generation Monaco V4 is also making revving noises in horology circles, nominated for Design Watch of the Year at the appropriately named 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The 41mm rose gold case, newly angled planes of the bevelled crystal and hand-stitched alligator strap are suitable companions for the high-yield mechanical belt drives and linear rewinding system found within. Similarly, the Carrera Heritage Collection Calibre 6 Watch and Calibre 16 Chronograph reinterpret iconic timepieces of motor racing, with retro details that reinforce TAG Heuer’s reputation for precision timekeeping. Meanwhile, the new Carrera Mikrograph, the first ever column wheel integrated mechanical chronograph with 1/100th of a second displayed by a striking central hand, is the ultimate in accuracy, complexity of movement and, of course, speed.

FROM LEFT TAG Heuer Monaco V4 rose gold & ceramic limited edition £70,000; Carrera Heritage Calibre 16 Chronograph with rose

gold dial £3,150; Carrera Mikrograph 1/100th Second Chronograph £35,000; and Carrera

Heritage Calibre 6 Watch in rose gold £6,995

FROM LEFT Piaget Emperador Coussin XL Large Moon £48,600; Piaget Emperador Coussin, price on application; and Piaget Altiplano £17,300

PIAGETIn the world of watches and fine jewellery, a brand generally stands in the technology camp or the jewellery camp, then improvises. Brands that have equal footing in both, with a heritage in mechanical movement and haute joaillerie, are few and far between. Piaget is one such house. Although originally a specialist in watch movements, Piaget extended the scope of its expertise in the 1960s with the launch of a collection of jewelled watches. And while ultra-thin is central to Piaget’s ideology, the brand’s gift to watchmaking is its jewelled concoctions. Enter the Piaget Emperador Coussin. The gem-set dial bears the retrograde date and day as well as the months, leap years or double time zones, and a gem-set oscillating weight is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. In the same collection, the Emperador Coussin XL Large Moon focuses on the lunar cycle, exhibiting a moon outlined with diamond-set white gold and a dial in aventurine silvered crystal, also encircled in diamonds. Meanwhile, the Altiplano adopts Piaget’s distinctive ultra-thin aesthetic with a minimalist design edged in a single row of diamonds. The audacity and authenticity of the brand shine as brightly as ever.

FROM LEFT Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu in rose gold £27,100; Cape Cod Grandes Heures £6,100; Arceau Le Temps Suspendu in steel £12,900; and Cape Cod Grandes Heures £5,950

HERMÈSAn imaginary journey through time – from a Parisian-based harness maker in 1837 to revered fashion house and fine watchmaker today – would have to be taken in a tangerine duc carriage with matching pony. Many icons of style are connected to this high-fashion house, yet the equestrian origins and the vibrant colour associated with the brand are never far from the surface. Through innovative collaborations and brave marketing decisions, the brand has continually reinvented itself for each new generation. Today, the leading edge of Hermès’ design strategy lies with its watch innovations. The Cape Cod Grandes Heures watch dips its design toes into saddlery hardware in a laid-back yet luxurious style – but that’s not the clever bit. The unevenly spaced hour markers create a need to speed up or slow down the skeleton hands to give the impression that you can orchestrate time. In a similar vein, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu watch has a sophisticated mechanism for playing with time. At the touch of a button, the hour and minute hands stop at their own whim at around noon, and the retrodate date hand disappears from the dial, suspending time on the watch face, if not in reality. Meanwhile, standard time keeps running behind the scenes, allowing for a return to real time with ease. Protected by two patents, this mechanical self-winding movement is equipped with three retrograde functions, including two 360-degree retrograding ones, and has a 42-hour power reserve – a gentle reminder of pressing time.

VACHERON CONSTANTINVacheron Constantin prides itself on respecting tradition. Ever since François Constantin travelled the world in the 18th century on a quest to discover the talents hidden within different cultures, Vacheron Constantin has struck the perfect balance between age-old watchmaking techniques and innovative artistic design. Each year, the Swiss manufacture launches a series of timepieces named Métiers d’Art to celebrate this link; for 2011, a bridge between East and West has been created with the La Symbolique des Laques collection. Japanese lacquering techniques that date back to the 1600s have been used to create three highly decorative timepieces: Turtle and Lotus, Frog and Hydrangea, and Carp and Waterfall. Inside each is the 14kt gold manual-wind 1003 SQ movement which, at 1.64mm, is the thinnest hand-wound mechanical movement in the world.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELSParisian elegance has always been central to the Van Cleef & Arpels aesthetic. The most refined translation of this is the eponymous PA49 watch. Created in 1949 by Pierre Arpels, it is a classic in watchmaking history that stands the test of time with its ultra-slim, ultra-dignified design. Midnight in Paris is Van Cleef & Arpels’ most sophisticated complication, replicating the daily changes in the night sky of Paris. The 365-day cycle of the stars moves imperceptibly in the classic round pink gold case. Meanwhile, Monsieur Arpels Tourbillon is the show-stopping timepiece of the group, with a tourbillon complication that is as beautiful as it is technically advanced. This is savoir-faire French style, sought out by connoisseurs throughout the world.

FROM LEFT Van Cleef & Arpels PA49 £3,050; Monsieur Arpels Tourbillon £167,400;

and Midnight in Paris £54,000

IWCThis year, the design focus for IWC is one of the manufacture’s signature ranges, the Portuguese collection. Launched in 1939, the original watches were oversized at the request of two Portuguese businessmen, with pocket watch movements very much in the tradition of nautical instruments. Over the years, IWC has revised this collection based around mechanical precision instruments. The Portuguese Regulateur Tourbillon, produced in a limited edition of 100 pieces, highlights a wristwatch whose design is inspired by traditional regulateur clocks. The Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, introduced this year in a revised 44mm red gold case, remains the world’s most user-friendly perpetual calendar due to its single crown operation. The epitome of precision mechanical engineering is encapsulated within IWC’s Portuguese Grande Complication in red gold, in a limited production of only 50 pieces per year.

FROM LEFT IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar in 18kt red

gold £26,000; Portuguese Tourbillon Regulator in 18kt

red gold £38,000; and Portuguese Grande

Complication in 18kt red gold £165,000

FROM TOP Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph Automatic £6,800 and Les Chronographes Émail

Grand Feu, price on application

MONTBLANCAccuracy has always been at the heart of Montblanc. Back in 1821, an inventor by the name of Nicolas Rieussec made history at a Parisian horse race when he recorded the times of all the horses as they crossed the finish line, to an accuracy of a quarter of a second. His invention was the chronograph. And Montblanc’s Nicolas Rieussec collection pays tribute to him with two chronograph movements: the MB R100 hand-wound calibre and the MB R200 automatic. Meanwhile to mark Minerva’s 150th jubilee, Montblanc has created the Collection Villeret 1858 Émail Grand Feu, a range that demonstrates the fine art of champlevé enamelling. The Grand Chronographe Émail Grand Feu has a 47mm case, 55 hours of power reserve and appears in red gold with an enamel dial, limited to 58 pieces.

FROM TOP Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Royal Oak £22,610 and Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Bumble Bee £25,480

AUDEMARS PIGUETSince 1875, Audemars Piguet has been cradled in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. The brand has the distinction of being the oldest Swiss watch manufacture to be owned by the founding family ancestors. Today, some 136 years later, Audemars Piguet is still proud of its unique heritage. In 1972, the brand introduced the Royal Oak, with its distinctive octagonal bezel. Once again, the brand was at the forefront of design. The marque introduced the model as the first luxury stainless steel sports watch. Today the Royal Oak is an icon in the world of horology: masculine, refined and instantly recognisable. The two models featured are the 18kt Rose Gold Royal Oak automatic on a strap: a watch for all occasions, a watch for today’s man – distinctive, masculine and cool. The Royal Oak Offshore Bumble Bee illustrates the dynamics that most brand aficionados love, featuring a combination of materials to create a true cutting-edge sports watch.

VERTURedefining the very idea of smartphones, Vertu has unveiled its latest touchscreen model, the Constellation. The Constellation was created to enhance a discerning and demanding lifestyle, thanks to its state-of-the-art technology, unparalleled craftsmanship and exclusive services. As with all Vertu phones, Vertu Concierge lies at the heart of the Constellation, and is now paired with a range of carefully curated apps to ensure that Vertu exclusive services and information are at the customer’s fingertips. These include Club Access, a global network of private members’ lifestyle and business clubs created for Vertu customers’ complimentary use. Vertu Select and City Brief deliver tailored information to the handset, while vertu.me supports multiple email accounts and the secure backup of data. Each handset is built and signed by one technician, with casings of surgical stainless steel or, in one case, 18kt yellow gold and ceramic, with a sapphire crystal screen.

Vertu Constellation £4,300

Hublot Boutique, The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

The Fusion between

Ceramic, 18K Red Gold

and Rubber.

FASHION

49Harrods Magazine • harrods.com

modede

Les défilés

Inspired by yesteryear’s haute couture houses, the ’50s silhouette is enhanced by statement jewels and elegant fine timepieces

PHOTOGRAPHER JASON ELL/SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB/MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR MITCHELL BELK


FASHION

LEFT De Beers “Enchanted Lotus” white gold and white diamond necklace, price on application; Cartier “Surya” brooch, price on application; Chopard diamond and tanzanite earrings, price on application, (on left hand ) diamond and tourmaline ring £48,930 and (on right hand ) high jewellery bracelet set in white and black diamonds £73,060; (on right hand ) Boucheron white gold and diamond “Ava Deco” ring £7,750; Dolce & Gabbana dress £1,155; Dents gloves £19.95; RIGHT Boodles “Honeysuckle” necklace £120,000 and (on left little finger) ring £45,000; Cartier “Musk” earrings, price on application; Chanel “Collerette” bracelet £29,650; (on right little finger) Theo Fennell 18kt yellow gold, white gold, diamond and green tourmaline “Ivy Tryst” ring £3,750 and (on left ring finger) 18kt yellow gold, white gold, brown diamond and diamond “Bombe” ring £25,850; Maria Grachvogel dress £1,475; Dents gloves £19.95


FASHIONLEFT Miu Miu dress from a selection; SECOND FROM LEFT Hackett jacket £499; Brioni shirt £299; Polo Ralph Lauren tie £85; THIRD FROM LEFT Boucheron white gold and diamond “Ava Deco” earrings £11,600 and necklace £20,800; Caroline Charles top £245 and skirt £325; THIRD FROM RIGHT Breitling Navitimer 01 watch in red gold £15,780; Harrods Own Label coat £599; Rake jacket £979; Corneliani shirt £129; Mr Hare shoes £525; SECOND FROM RIGHT

De Beers “Swan Lake” pink gold and white diamond earrings, and “Adonis Rose” white gold and white diamond cuff, both prices on application; Cartier pearl necklace, price on application; (on left hand) Theo Fennell 18kt yellow gold, diamond, garnet and beryl “Bombe” ring £16,700 and (on right hand) 18kt yellow gold, diamond and brown diamond “Bombe” ring £25,850; Burland fur cape £10,250; Elie Saab dress £4,900; Philip Treacy hat £825; Tiffany & Co. sunglasses £238; Christian Louboutin clutch £895; KG by Kurt Geiger shoes from a selection; RIGHT Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea watch £8,350; Ralph Lauren Purple Label cardigan £1,810; Rake shirt £239; Polo Ralph Lauren trousers £249; Turnbull & Asser cravat £95; Falke socks £11.95; Tom Ford shoes £2,535; ON PHOTOGRAPHER Chanel J12 Caliber 3125 watch with alligator strap £14,275; E. Tautz jacket £800; Mr Start shirt £99.95


FASHION

THIS PAGE, LEFT Montblanc Star Retrograde Automatic watch £3,020; Mr Start jacket £450 and shirt £99.95; RIGHT Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Date Automatic watch in pink gold £17,670; Mr Start suit £695; Polo Ralph Lauren shirt £95; Harrods Own Label tie £49.95 OPPOSITE PAGE, ON HER Boodles “Vintage Lace” earrings £150,000, necklace £1,250,000 and ring £162,000; Dolce & Gabbana dress £1,155; Burland fur roll collar £535; Philip Treacy hat £1,799; Dents gloves £19.95; ON HIM Piaget Emperador watch £16,400; Ralph Lauren suit £990; Canali shirt £129 and tie £79.95; Turnbull & Asser pocket square £50


FASHION


FASHIONLEFT Hermès Cape Cod Grandes Heures watch £6,100; Richard James jacket £829; Mr Start shirt £110; CENTRE (on right hand) Chaumet “Frisson 3 Pampilles” bracelet, price on application; Van Cleef & Arpels white gold and diamond “Décolleté” ring £26,600; (rings on left hand, from left) Van Cleef & Arpels white gold, diamond and aquamarine “Décolleté” ring, price on application; Chaumet “Frisson 3 Pampilles” ring, price on application; (bracelets on left wrist, from top) Chaumet white gold and diamond “Joséphine” bracelet £18,800; Van Cleef & Arpels platinum and diamond “Snowflake” bracelet £158,800; Carolina Herrera dress £2,799; Burland fur roll collar £535; Nancy Gonzalez clutch £1,175; Christian Louboutin shoes £535; RIGHT IWC Portofino Chronograph in stainless steel £3,900; A. Sauvage jacket £1,200; Mr Start shirt £99.95; Canali trousers £229; ON MR

WOO THE DOG Majestic Collars diamanté collar from £44.95


FASHION


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FROM LEFT Cartier “Surya” brooch, price on application; Boodles “Vintage Lace” necklace

£1,250,000 and bracelet £445,000; Theo Fennell 18kt yellow and white gold, diamond, ruby and

agate “Cameo” pendant £14,950 and (in foreground) “Bee” necklace in 18kt yellow and white gold with

black jade £5,500; Boodles “Vintage Lace” ring £162,000 and earrings £150,000; IWC Portofino

Automatic watch in stainless steel £3,750; Chopard high jewellery earrings with emeralds and yellow

diamonds, price on application

Hair KEIICHIRO HIRANO at DWM using Bumble and Bumble

Make-up EMMA MILES using ChanelModels SOPHIE P at Select, DENISE SOMMERS

and LYZA at Storm, MATTHEW HITT at FM, PATRICK RUKAI at Premier, and

DALE TOOGOOD at EliteFashion Stylist POPPY ROCK

Fashion Assistant BECKY BRANCHMake-up Assistants DEBORAH LOTT, MEGU,

and JULIA WILSONPhotographer’s Assistants SCOTT ARCHIBALD, JAMES DAVEY and MICHAEL FURLONGER

Available from Men’s Underwear & Nightwear and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground

Floor; The Fine Jewellery Room, The Fine Watch Room, Hosiery & Umbrellas, Men’s Tailoring and Sunglasses, Ground Floor; Eveningwear, International Designer Room, Millinery and

The Shoe Salon, First Floor; and harrods.com

JobNo:44859-5Publication:HarrodsMagazineRhpSize:297x460InsDate:Nov11Proofno:1NetworkTel:02072914700

“BOUCLE DE CAMÉLIA“ RING

18K WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS

Chanel Boutique, The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor.

JobNo:44859-5Publication:HarrodsMagazineRHPSize:297x460InsDate:Nov2011Proofno:1NetworkTel:02072914700

& ALLEGRA COLLECTION

THE F INE JEWELLERY ROOM, GROUND FLOOR

GYPSY COLLECTION

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EDITOR’S LETTER

A rainbow of precious gems has arrived this year in the collections of our favourite international jewellery brands. No less influential than trends in fashion, the key looks in jewellery design rely on fancy coloured stones to do the talking. Deceptively complicated settings are used to create maximum luminosity, and every imaginable shade makes an appearance, from lemon yellow and tangerine to violet, pink and black.

Meanwhile, classic white diamonds are a perennial favourite, in ever more flamboyant creations from the haute joaillerie houses. And the mood for fine craftsmanship has led to a new interest in the ancient art of enamelling.

Together with the new Fine Watch Room, the selection of precious jewels and timepieces is now the most expansive in Europe. And the elegant surroundings of The Fine Jewellery Room provide the perfect setting for tiny gifts with massive significance.

Fine Jewellery

Take a trip to Harrods...

for 24kt quality

Harrods Magazine • harrods.com

TWO UNIQUE BROOCHES

BY THEO FENNELL

HAND MADE IN OUR WORKSHOPS BY 7 BRILLIANT CRAFTSMEN USING CARVED MAMMOTH BONE,

MOTHER OF PEARL, CITRINE, DIAMONDS, SAPPHIRES, RUBIES, TURQUOISE AND CORAL BEADS

AND SET IN 18CT GOLD WITH ENAMEL AND HAND ENGRAVED DETAILS.

THE FINE JEWELLERY ROOM, GROUND FLOOR

Star of Shamballa Medallion18K rhodium plated white gold & Black diamonds

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Harrods__Shamballa_Oct2011.indd 1 2011-09-09 10.22


CONTENTS

FANCY THATCleverly cut to reveal the depth of their vibrant colours, the world’s most precious and unusual stones appear in the latest head-turning haute joaillerie

ART OF GLASSThe intricate art of enamelling has found its way from the ancient world to today’s fine jewellery and watches

LE CRAZYWith a shared passion for creating dreams, Le Crazy Horse and Chopard celebrate feminine beauty and the art of seduction

DARK ARTSFashion’s perennial favourite shade has crossed into fine jewellery, as diamonds, sapphires and pearls appear in any colour – so long as it’s black

THE JEWEL IN THE CROWNShowcasing exquisite designs from some of the world’s most prestigious brands, The Fine Jewellery Room is internationally renowned for its rare and beautiful gems

DESIGN FOR LIFEFrom Ottoman architecture to the Chinese zodiac, seven designers share the eclectic inspirations behind their fine jewellery creations

THE ULTIMATE NEST EGGOnly Fabergé could magic up exquisite pendants in a breathtaking array of gems

LES DÉFILÉS DE MODEInspired by yesteryear’s haute couture houses, the ’50s silhouette is enhanced by statement jewels and elegant fine timepieces

Cover animationMAINFRAME

17

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Fine jewellery

17 24

34 55

HARRODS MAGAZINE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DEBORAH BEE

ART DIRECTOR BARNEY PICKARD

DEPUTY EDITOR FLEUR FRUZZA


CHIEF SUB-EDITORS LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON

JUNIOR SUB-EDITOR NICOLA CORFIELD

PRODUCER LISA BONNICI

ART EDITOR SONJA BURRI

SENIOR DESIGNER NATALIE MOSQUERA

JUNIOR DESIGNER RACHEL ESCUDIER

FASHION WRITER LAURA JORDAN

STAFF WRITER AMY BROOMFIELD

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT LOUISE FISH


FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH

PICTURE RESEARCHER EMILY SELLERS

MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR MITCHELL BELK

PUBLISHER BETH HODDER

PUBLISHING COORDINATOR SUZY CHAPMAN

PUBLISHING ASSISTANT ALETHEA QUARTEY

PRODUCTION MANAGER HAYLEY ELLIS

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT CAMILLA JOSEPHS

HARRODS STORE IMAGE, MEDIA AND MARKETING

DIRECTOR OF FINE JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES ABIGAIL RAINER

IMAGE DIRECTOR MARK BRIGGS

DIRECTOR OF CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT CHIARA VARESE

HEAD OF MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS AMBER PEPPER

MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR GUY CHESTON

MEDIA MANAGER, FASHION ACCESSORIES VALENTINA TROTTA

MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, FASHION ACCESSORIES

SOPHIE MIDDLETON, LUCINDA ANDREWS

GENERAL MERCHANDISING MANAGER, FINE JEWELLERY & LUXURY WATCHES

HUSSEIN PAREKH

BUYER, LUXURY WATCHES WILLIAM BLAKE

TRAINEE BUYER, FINE JEWELLERY CAMILLA GYLLO

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES +44 (0)20 7225 5783/5996/5706

PRODUCTION

REPRODUCTION ZEBRA

PRINT PRODUCTION WYNDEHAM [ROCHE] LIMITED

HARRODS, 87—135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge,

London SW1X 7XL

T: +44 (0)20 7730 1234 F: +44 (0)20 7225 6633

www.harrods.com

All information and prices are correct at time of going to press. We hope you enjoy

reading Harrods Magazine. As we are committed to providing the highest level of customer

service possible, we would love to hear any comments that you may have.

Please email [email protected]

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MUST-HAVES

Cleverly cut to reveal the depth of their vibrant colours, the world’s most precious and unusual stones appear in the latest head-turning haute joaillerie

PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS TURNERDEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK

Fancy

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Amrapali “Navaratna” 18kt gold and nine gemstones necklace £31,000; Van Cleef & Arpels “Victoria” bracelet in white gold with diamonds, violet and pink sapphires, emeralds and pearls, price on application; Bulgari platinum, gold, diamond and sapphire necklace, price on application; Boodles “Summer Sunset” bracelet in 18kt white gold with diamonds and pink sapphires, £65,000; Chopard High Jewellery Collection necklace with white diamonds and multicoloured sapphires, price on application Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor


NEWS

GOLD CALLING

Art of glassThe intricate art of enamelling has found its way from the ancient world to today’s fine jewellery and watches

The tradition of giving a Fabergé egg as a gift began in Russia in 1885. Tsar Alexander III commissioned

Peter Carl Fabergé to make a jewelled Easter egg for his wife for their anniversary. She loved the gift so

much that Fabergé was appointed to make a new egg every year. Today they are a symbol of opulence. The “Oeuf Olga” pendant is enamelled in brilliant green and cradled in an Art Nouveau-style 18kt basket set

with diamonds. £8,850. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

A picture drawn by her seven-year-old daughter inspired Solange Azagury-Partridge to create the whimsical “Supernature” ring. The piece reflects the innocent universe of childhood with playful-looking creatures depicted in bright colours, each one enamelled by hand. £7,400. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

The latest limited-edition range from Vertu has taken on a feminine touch, with floral designs made with the Japanese lacquer technique of maki-e. The four phones of the Kissho range – the word means “good omen” – come in white or yellow gold and feature a different seasonal flower designed by maki-e

master Kazumi Murose. The patterns are applied by sprinkling tiny particles of gold or silver and mother-of-pearl onto the lacquer. “Kikusui” phone £152,000. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

With a team of artists using watch dials as their canvases, DeLaneau has created the Amazone Miniature Papillon watch. The 18kt dial features 59 diamonds and four lozenge-cut orange sapphires. The large, vibrant butterfly is hand-engraved and painted with enamel,

while the red gold case is set with 472 brilliant-cut diamonds. £97,000.

Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

When Jean Schlumberger first expressed an interest in design, his parents

were quick to discourage him and wouldn’t allow him

to do any formal training. Luckily for him – and us – he sought out

another avenue, and trained under fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who commissioned him to design costume jewellery.

Schlumberger’s “Jackie” bracelets (so named after Jackie Kennedy was photographed wearing one) are made using the 19th-century

art of paillonné, a process of making translucent colours by laying enamel over gold leaf. From £23,200. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room,

Ground Floor

Influences from Art Deco and the Orient to the solar system and the ocean have inspired Cartier’s Évasions Joaillières collection. Pink gold rings are decorated with a solar-style disc and covered in semiprecious stones and black lacquer, while matching necklaces are suspended on chains made from prehnites. Other pieces include pink sapphire and onyx necklaces and rings framed by diamonds. Ring £27,000. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

Cartier deco

SUPERFLY

From Russia with love

Tiffany & Jackie

Creature feature

Boodles Boutique | The Fine Jewellery Room | Ground Floor

Boodles Wonderland | T: +44 (0)20 7730 1234 | www.harrods.com

20 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com20 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com

PROVENANCE

Le Crazy With a shared passion for creating dreams, the Crazy Horse

and Chopard celebrate feminine beauty and the art of seductionBY DEBORAH BEE/PHOTOGRAPHER JANE HILTON

Chopard white gold and diamond watch from the Imperiale Collection £31,810


Under a slate-grey sky the Parisian traffic is four lanes wide and stationary. The concierge states that the time of day and the weather will preclude a cab for at least two hours, so we take a bus to Avenue Montaigne and, jumping over a river of

rainwater coursing down the side of the road, we head for Avenue George V. Not far from the junction at Pont de l’Alma is a small, rectangular sign with words picked out in red neon. Smoked-glass doors reveal a plush scarlet interior, with gold-painted bannisters leading the way down to a dark, heavily silent auditorium. With no daylight or sounds from the street, it’s like stepping into another world – secretive and glamorous. The stage is dark and surprisingly small; the red velvet booths are lit by small lamps.

Backstage is a different story, with a maze of corridors leading to a sound booth, a sales office and a harshly lit TV room with white leather sofas littered with magazines. At eight in the morning there are a few cleaners vacuuming, some sound engineers out back, and four or five bleary-eyed girls in black silk dressing gowns milling around, who scatter to a room of curtained cubicles as the photography team arrives. At one end, the corridor narrows to black, leading onto the stage. Here hangs a series of sequined scullcaps fringed with jet beads, and shiny nylon wigs in scarlet, black and white, cut into angular bobs. Within each cubicle is a light-ringed mirror, decorated with pictures of pink-cheeked children and awkward teenagers waving, friendship bracelets, dried flowers and Post-it messages of good luck. As each girl leans into her mirror, her fresh face becomes disguised under layers of foundation, individual characteristics blended away under false lashes, flicks of eyeliner and a painted pout. These are the legendary Crazy Girls. This is the Crazy Horse.

In Paris, everyone knows of the Crazy Horse. The most avant-garde of all the Parisian nightspots, it is a sublimely French concoction: the club’s dazzling nightly cabaret shows celebrate the female form through racy burlesque performances. The show dates back to 1951, when Alain Bernardin conjured up the idea of a performance that focused on women, but that also included musical acts or witty interludes. During the ’60s, the show came into its own, becoming the go-to destination for an international clientele keen to experience authentically saucy French nightlife. By then the show had taken on its current form – a series of choreographed tableaux expressed through the supple, naked forms of the Crazy Girls. Often humorous, always teasing, Le Crazy was adored by men and women alike.

Transferring to Vegas for a 50th anniversary show in 2001, Le Crazy met with triumphant success. A new team took over in 2005, and the company has since achieved worldwide acclaim. “I instantly fell in love when I first saw the Crazy Horse in Vegas,” says Managing Director Andrée Deissenberg. “The continuing allure of Le Crazy can be put down to the universal appeal of the female form. Since 1951, the Crazy Horse in Paris has been dedicated to capturing la femme in artistically captivating ways through the choreography of our substantially nude dancers.”

For Baby Light, Zula Zazou, Fiamma Rosa, Yasna Snigoura, Lumina Classika and Dita Novita (not their real names), “substantially nude” means a few

There is a two- kilo margin for each girl.

If you are lighter or

heavier, you won’t fit in with

the rest of the group

ABOVE Zula Zazou wears the Chopard 18kt yellow gold and diamond “Happy Diamonds” necklace £24,700; LEFT,

RIGHT AND BELOW The Crazy Girls – Baby Light, Zula Zazou, Fiamma Rosa, Yasna Snigoura, Lumina Classika and Dita Novita – prepare backstage for the cabaret

PROVENANCE

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strategically placed leather straps and a skinful of bodypaint. Asked if they mind stripping off every night, they look at each other for approval, then shake their heads. Like sisters, they appear to be of one mind. “The atmosphere is friendly, supportive and familiar,” says Deissenberg. Later, the girls discuss the lack of sibling rivalry and the protective manner of the management. Even the weekly weigh-in seems totally acceptable from the inside, even if it doesn’t quite from the outside. “There is a two-kilo margin for each girl,” says one, while the others nod. “You cannot go outside of that; you cannot be heavier or lighter, or you won’t fit in with the group.”

The purpose of today’s shoot is to photograph the collaboration between Le Crazy and the Parisian haute joaillerie house Chopard. A mirthless security guard has arrived and is waiting backstage with a variety of leather cases containing the precious new collection. The girls are, conversely, mirthful. Best known for its red-carpet pieces, Chopard invited the dancers to perform at the its 2011 annual Cannes Film Festival party, of which the company is the main sponsor. Co-President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele chose the Crazy Horse because she felt the companies have a shared objective. “Like Chopard,” she says, “the Crazy Horse is a creator of dreams. We have both raised beauty and seduction to an art form.”

Scheufele is not alone in her fascination with the Crazy Horse. Many great designers have honed their cutting skills with half an eye on the erotic curves demonstrated on stage. Paco Rabanne, Azzedine Alaïa, Karl Lagerfeld, Jean-Louis Scherrer and Emanuel Ungaro have all contributed design ideas to the dancers’ costumes, and Christian Louboutin created the shoes for the current show, Désirs. The first time Louboutin came across Alaïa was in some photos from the ’70s, when Alaïa was working on costumes for the Crazy Horse girls. “Alaïa is inspired by the feminine form,” Louboutin says. “He doesn’t sit around sketching, thinking about the past. He is obsessed by a woman’s body. He has a huge understanding of it. That’s what makes him great.”

The Crazy Horse girls are equally obsessed with the Chopard jewels. Each one stands in line and takes her turn to receive the gems chosen for her performance. As the dancers wait for their pieces, they admire each other’s gems and self-consciously pat at their necklaces as though to make sure they are still there. The music strikes up and the girls file onto the stage. As lights strobe and a dull thudding of bass punctures the backstage stillness, the Crazy Horse girls swing into seductive poses. Arched backs, strained thighs, pointed toes in skyscraper heels and coquettishly flexed little fingers move in time to the beat with sultry poise.

Five minutes later they are back, smiling but hidden from further scrutiny by their swinging fringes and fluttery lashes. They scuttle back to their cubicles to remove their jewels, while the security guard carefully checks the pieces back into their boxes. Two pairs of earrings remain to be returned.

At the far end of the corridor, two of the youngest dancers are posing side by side with a camera held out as far as they can reach. Despite their sophisticated costumes, the dancers are transformed back into girls, wearing the kinds of expressions one might expect from someone given the chance to wear a £300,000 necklace – ear-to-ear grins as they point at the jewellery in mock amazement. “We think we should really keep them,” they laugh. HMN

Chopard and Crazy Horse

create dreams. We have both raised beauty and seduction to an art form

Harrods Magazine • harrods.com

JEWELLERY, CLOCKWISE

FROM TOP RIGHT Chopard Red Carpet Collection necklace in 18kt white gold with diamonds, amethysts, emeralds and five rubellites £69,390; Red Carpet Collection necklace in 18kt white gold with diamonds and emeralds, price on application; Imperiale Collection white gold and diamond watch £31,810; and Red Carpet Collection earrings in 18kt white gold with diamonds, sapphires and moonstones £37,040. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT Maria Callas at the Crazy Horse in 1970; Woody Allen in 1965; a 1956 show; a 1964 show, with Salvador Dalí in the audience; and Dalí with the dancers


MUST-HAVES

Fashion’s perennial favourite shade has crossed into fine jewellery, as diamonds, sapphires and pearls appear in any colour – so long as it’s black PHOTOGRAPHER TED HUMBLE-SMITHSENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB

Dark artsCLOCKWISE FROM TOP Mikimoto “Dragonfly”earrings in 18kt

white gold with diamonds and black South Sea cultured pearls £21,000; Chanel “Collerette” bracelet in white gold

with diamonds and black faceted pearls £29,650; Boucheron “Cyrpis” ring with black sapphires, diamonds and rubies £8,750; Shamballa 18kt white gold, black rhodium and

black diamond bracelet £19,150; Bottega Veneta ring £3,300Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

Amazone Cranberries.

18K white gold set with 36 baguette-cut diamonds

and 455 brilliant-cut diamonds. Onyx dial,

Cranberries set with 293 brilliant-cut diamonds

and 20 cabochon rubies.

Automatic movement Cal 1608.

The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor.


JEWELLERY

Thanks to Hollywood’s most iconic screen sirens, women have a licence to feel attached to their jewellery. Elizabeth Taylor wrote about her love affair with her gems, Mae West declared carats more important than carrots, and Marilyn Monroe famously sang about it. “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” may have become a cliché, but it still rings true (though the rest of the quote – “and a man’s worst enemy” – seems to have fallen by the wayside, much to the dismay of gift-giving males). And the passion doesn’t stop with diamonds; precious stones such as rubies, pearls and emeralds have held an allure for centuries, captivating women not only because of their beauty, but also for their capacity to be passed down and treasured from one generation to the next. Whatever the reason behind the interest, it has kept the gemstones business afloat for centuries.

In Harrods, fine jewellery has been available for more

than 120 years. Jewellery was first sold in the store in the 1880s, but it was not until the opening of a new gem room in 1911 that the pieces were given the setting they deserved, and Harrods was catapulted into the spotlight as a luxury jewellery retailer. Then referred to as “Jewellery Corner”, the gem room was situated in the back of the store by Basil Street and Hans Crescent and was lavishly decorated with gilded marble walls and ornate display cases. An advertisement in a 1911 edition of The Playgoer magazine declared it “One of the most palatial showrooms in Europe. Designed with exceptional beauty in the Louis XIV period and magnificently equipped, it offers, without doubt, the finest selection in high-class jewellery to be obtained anywhere.” Meanwhile, a similar advertisement in The Times welcomed the jewellery connoisseur and “the seeker for the rare and beautiful” into “without a doubt the Finest Jewellery Salon f

The

crown Showcasing exquisite designs from some of the

world’s most prestigious brands, The Fine Jewellery Room is internationally renowned for its rare and beautiful gems

BY AMY BROOMFIELD

The Harrods gem room in the 1960s


JEWELLERY

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Today Harrods gem room, now known as The Fine Jewellery

Room, is almost as famous as the store itself

in Europe, and probably in the world”. Among the earliest brands sold in the store were Cartier and Collingwood of Conduit Street, both of which had their own display cases. When the department was remodelled in 1989, the offering grew to seven brands, including N.Bloom & Son, Theo Fennell, Garrard, Cartier, Ilias Lalaounis, Mikimoto and David Morris.

Over the years, the Harrods gem room has welcomed its share of famous guests. In 1915, a charity event for the British Red Cross took place, with celebrities manning the counters to sell jewellery. Among the notable figures taking part were the English socialite and actress Lady Diana Cooper, and the writer and heiress Nancy Cunard. The event raised £30,000, with the biggest sale by Lady Diana, who sold a pearl necklace for £1,000 – the equivalent of around £70,000 today. There have also been visits by royalty; a customer letter sent in 1994 recalls a sighting of the Queen and Princess Margaret making a few purchases in the gem room in 1948.

Today Harrods gem room, now known as The Fine Jewellery Room, is almost as famous as the store itself, and offers an unrivalled selection of luxury merchandise from many of the major jewellery houses, including De Beers, Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels and Chopard. Alongside their own ranges, all of the fine jewellery boutiques offer bespoke services such as remodelling existing jewellery into a new piece or creating one-of-a-kind items from a customer’s own design. Expert advisers are also on hand to provide guidance and information on the pieces, helping customers to choose the perfect piece of jewellery from the extensive selection available. HMN

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

The 1911 advertisement in The Playgoer magazine; The Fine Jewellery Room today; an African dignitary with his entourage buying jewellery in the 1930s; an artist’s impression of how the gem room looked in 1911


TRENDS

MIKIMOTO

Noriyuki MoritaCEO

The tricky thing with pearls is that the most valuable ones are produced naturally in the wild, and are extremely rare. But in 1893 the scientist Kokichi

Mikimoto mastered culturing saltwater pearls that rivalled those created organically. Mikimoto worked for many years to create specially cultured versions of these rare and precious jewels, before setting up the first Mikimoto pearl shop in Tokyo in 1899. While traditional pearl jewellery has always been the focus of the business, the company is also actively expanding the collection to include more elaborate pieces. “We want to continue to pursue Kokichi’s dream, as well as bolster our high jewellery collection,” says CEO Noriyuki Morita. Some of the more extravagant pieces we can expect to see include the “Golden Illusion” necklace, made with a variety of coloured pearls, and the “Aurora” necklace, featuring golden and white South Sea Baroque pearls set in white gold with diamonds.

From Ottoman architecture to the Chinese zodiac, seven designers share the eclectic inspirations behind their

fine jewellery creationsBY AMY BROOMFIELD

Design for life

FROM TOP Mikimoto “Aurora” necklace

£400,000 and earrings £50,000

FROM LEFT Fabergé “Oeuf Cadeau” necklace £5,900, “Oeuf Impératrice” necklace £16,100 and “Oeuf Nina Email et Diamants” necklace £6,600

FROM TOP Wilfredo Rosado “Diamond Head” ring, “Chandelier” earrings and “Array” cuff, all prices

on application

FABERGÉ

Sarah and Tatiana FabergéDirector of Special Projects and Founder of the Fabergé Heritage Council

The idea of giving an ornate egg as a gift dates back back to 1885, when Russian Tsar

Alexander III commissioned designer Peter Carl Fabergé to create a bejewelled Easter egg for his wife on their 20th wedding anniversary. Fabergé crafted it from gold, with an opaque white enamelled shell that opened to reveal a yellow gold yolk, which in turn opened to reveal a multicoloured gold hen. Inside the hen was a tiny diamond replica of the Imperial Crown with a ruby suspended from it. So delighted was his wife with the gift that Fabergé was commissioned to make a new egg every year, with the only requirement being that they have a new surprise inside.

Today, the team at the helm of the company includes Creative Director Katharina Flohr and Fabergé’s granddaughters, Tatiana and Sarah, who work to safeguard the brand’s legacy and continue to honour Fabergé’s original vision. Many of their pieces feature the decorative designs they have inherited, but the team also integrate ideas of their own. “Of course we take inspiration from our illustrious past, but when we are considering a new collection we go away to a secret location in the countryside so that ideas can flow,” says Sarah. “Much of our inspiration comes from wildlife and nature – they provide an incredible colour palette.” The collection comprises regal-looking pieces such as diamond-encrusted brooches in complex floral patterns, majestic rubied rings and, of course, egg pendants in gold, silver, and brightly coloured enamel.

WILFREDO ROSADO

Wilfredo RosadoFounder

Mentored by Giorgio Armani and later a protégé of Andy Warhol, Wilfredo Rosado has been known in the most respected fashion circles for

over 20 years. Rosado worked at Warhol’s New York in-crowd bible Interview magazine before realising an ambition to branch out on his own. “Mr Armani used to call me ‘Cleopatra’ because of all the jewellery I used to wear,” says Rosado. “It was then that my thoughts turned to doing my own designs.” Much of his colourful career has helped to influence his brand. “Andy taught me to appreciate the creative process; he had such a passion for discovering the new. And through Mr Armani I learned the value of quality and refinement.”

Rosado’s inspiration comes from the creative surroundings of his neighbourhood in New York, which he refers to as “an extension of my design space”, but largely he is driven by fashion itself. “I love how it reflects what’s going on in the world – music, films, art, politics, and even the economy have an influence on trends.”

Often described as luxurious with a whimsical undertone, Rosado’s pieces are handcrafted and include a mixture of dyed feather brooches, “cage” pendants, delicate drop chains and rings with some impressively sized gemstones. “I have a weakness for diamonds,” he says. “I love designing pieces that are cool and that will stand the test of time. Diamonds add the classicism to my jewellery that counterbalances the fashion and fantasy.”


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TRENDS

DELANEAU

Cristina Wendt-ThévenazCEO

FROM LEFT

Delaneau Amazone

Blackberries watch and

Lillies watch, prices on

application

SEVAN BIÇAKÇI

Sevan Biçakçi Founder

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Sevan Biçakçi “Papillon” cuff “Hagia Sofia” ring and

“Persephone” ring, all price on application

Since 1949, the design ethos at Swiss watch brand Delaneau has been to create beautiful and reliable watches for women on the go.

As a busy lady herself, CEO and Creative Director Cristina Wendt-Thévenaz created waves in the horological world by declaring that the brand would continue to only ever make watches for women – such a limiting statement has never been made in the watch world. Nonetheless, by realising its unique position in the market and streamling its output, Delaneau has established itself as the go-to brand for the ultimate in ultra-feminine Swiss bejewelled watches. Many of the elaborate designs are created by Thévenaz herself, who sketches them on a pad before dedicating a team of some of most skilled stone-setters, engravers, finishers, goldsmiths and enamellists in the region to bring her ideas to life. While artistry is clearly important, the brand is careful never to prioritise design over functionality; the decorative motifs are balanced by its own specially developed mechanical movement, which is said to be more reliable than quartz.

The 1608 collection has been specifically created for busy multi-tasking females; each model features jumping hours and minutes that sit side by side on a handless face for quick time-telling, while the broad watch face acts as a canvas for the nature-inspired designs. The collection features cranberries, blueberries and magnolia depicted in precious stones, enamel and lacquer and set against brightly coloured dials.

Growing up in Istanbul’s old city, surrounded by intoxicating grand bazaars, Ottoman architecture and a colourful history, Sevan

Biçakçi had plenty of inspiration for his designs. Describing his work as “Byzantine Emperor meets Alice in Wonderland”, Biçakçi’s pieces have become synonymous with dramatically sized gold and silver rings, “maximum sparkle” gemstones, and architecturally driven designs. “Architecture is an important element,” says Biçakçi. “My ring forms are often inspired by the famous Hagia Sophia dome in Istanbul. It is a big influence behind most Ottoman mosques.”

Biçakçi also likes to incorporate the use of artistic paintwork, and thanks to the contributions of talented artist Hasan Kale, many of the pieces feature miniature paintings on tiny surfaces. His workshop is a melting pot of artists, painters, sculptors, calligraphers, glass blowers, diamond-setters, goldsmiths and inlay and enamel specialists.

Biçakçi compares the evolvement of his designs to storytelling. “We like to illustrate stories like that of the dove that returns to Noah’s Ark with an olive branch, or the story about Empress Theodora,” says Biçakçi. “I then have conversations with my artists and we discuss ways I would like them to contribute.” A mixture of techniques are used to create the final look. “My workshop has managed to improvise some new craftsmanship techniques to give the pieces an aged look, and we also continue to use practises common to Turkish design, such as the rose cut.”

SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE

Solange Azagury-Partridge Founder

The first piece of jewellery Solange Azagury-Partridge ever made was her engagement ring. With no formal training, she created a simple gold

band with an uncut diamond embedded into it; so many people admired it that, three years later, she set up in business and taught herself how to design jewellery. Like Azagury-Partridge herself, her creations combine an eclectic style with a sense of humour, as seen in rings featuring Pop Art-style lips in multiple colours, the animals of the Chinese zodiac and fun fruit designs. “For inspiration, I come up with a particular theme and then become obsessed with it,” she says. “An example would be my collection Stoned; I just loved that word because jewellery has this narcotic element that gets you high and takes you out of this world. I wanted to explore its meaning.”

In 2001, she caught the attention of Tom Ford and was appointed Creative Director of Parisian master jeweller Boucheron, where she worked for three years. While many of her early necklaces and cuffs demonstrated Roman and Greek influences, her style quickly evolved and now it seems she has a never-ending supply of ideas for new designs. The ideas usually come in nine-month cycles that she compares to pregnancy. “They are all my babies. I love them equally,” she says. Her contribution to jewellery design has been acknowledged worldwide and in 2003 she was nominated for the prestigious Design Museum Designer of the Year award. She is also one of a handful of contemporary jewellers whose work has been exhibited in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, as well as at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Rajesh Ajmera and Rajiv AroraCo-Founders

AMRAPALI

In 1978, two history graduates came up with the idea of sharing the ancient artisanal craftsmanship of Indian jewellery-making with the western

world. Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera travelled to the remotest parts of India to source their jewellery, building a collection that would act as the inspiration for the Amrapali brand. “To us, jewellery-making is an art both in design and workmanship, not merely a craft,” says company co-founder Rajiv Arora. “It actually represents our culture and tradition.”

The brand’s pieces are made from gold, silver and indigenous precious stones such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires. “Indian jewellery is all about elaborate craft and distinctive creations,” says Arora. “A lot of importance is given to minute details such as enamelling and inlay work. Our craftsmen understand the art of cutting and polishing precious stones and handcrafting the intricate filigree work.” The ranges include a mix of styles: the Ethnic Collection has heavily beaded necklaces and chokers; the Studded Victorian Collection features elegant three-row drop necklaces made with a dazzling array of semi-precious stones; and the Bollywood-influenced Jadau Collection has carved gold bangles and earrings. The company’s striking designs have attracted an international fan base of celebrities including Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Lopez, Eva Mendes and Rihanna, yet the founders remain decidedly modest. “Lots of hard work, a little bit of luck and passion for creativity is what has brought us to where we stand today,” says Arora.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

Amrapali necklace, bracelet and “Peacock”

bracelet, all prices on application

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Solange Azagury-Partridge “Hotlips”

ring £990, “Cup” ring £45,000 and “Rabbit” ring £1,540

ULTIMATE

Only Fabergé could magic up exquisite pendants in a breathtaking array of gems PHOTOGRAPHER TED HUMBLE-SMITH

The Ultimate

Nest egg


ULTIMATE

TOP, FROM LEFT Oeuf Tsarskoe Selo Vert d’Eau Email £6,500; Oeuf Duchesse Blanc £16,600; Oeuf Rocaille Sculpté Lapis Nuageux £4,650; Oeuf Olga Email et Diamants £8,850 INSIDE NEST, CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Green Stoneflower Egg Jadeite £5,700; rose gold Oeuf Palais d’Or Rose £4,100; red Oeuf Nina Email et Diamants £6,600; rose gold spiral Oeuf Spirale Or Rose £16,600; pink, green and blue Oeuf Ballets Russes Carnaval £14,100; rose gold and diamond Oeuf Cadeau £5,900; gold engraved Oeuf Baroque Gravé Or Jaune £6,500; blue sapphire Oeuf Impératrice Bleu £15,900; HANGING, BOTTOM

LEFT Oeuf Spirale Exhuberance £16,600

H a U t E J o a i l l E r i E C o l l E C t i o n

Chopard Boutique, the Fine Jewellery room, Ground Floor


BE MINESet hearts aflutter with the most dramatic stones and the most innovative settings

from the world’s best haute joaillerie houses

PHOTOGRAPHER HERVÉ HADDAD


Hair KEIICHIRO HIRANO at DWM using Bumble and BumbleMake-up ROZELLE PARRY at DWM using Chanel

Nail Technician NINA LEWIS at Joy Goodman using DiorModels GILLES, JANNICK WILKE and

VALERIA GARCIA at Select; MORWENNA at PremierDeputy Fashion Editor POPPY ROCK

Photographer’s Assistants DAVE HAMPTON and MIKE MASSORA

Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

DE BEERSA spirit of enchantment is the hallmark of any piece by De Beers, and the new Wildflowers Collection lives up to that reputation. Set in multiple strands of white gold, the elaborate clusters of flowers and free-falling blooms are crafted in brilliant diamond pavé. The necklace is made up of 1,413 round diamonds set in white gold with a total weight of15.03 carats. The asymmetric statement ring features 241 diamonds with a weight of 2.50 carats, and the drop earrings feature 190 round brilliant diamonds with a weight of 2.34 carats. And while the show-stopping pieces do just that, the bracelet is quietly elegant, like a wisp of a delicate daisy chain picked out in tiny, shimmering diamonds.

FROM LEFT De Beers white gold and diamond “Wildflowers” one-row bracelet £6,150; ring £15,700; earrings £11,800 and necklace, price on application


JEWELLERY


JEWELLERYCHANELThe suite of rooms on the third floor of 31 Rue Cambon in Paris pays homage to the fashion genius who worked there. Above the elegant boutique and No 5-infused head offices, Coco Chanel’s private apartment remains as it was when she died in 1971, complete with the works of art, interior decoration and furniture with which she chose to surround herself. From lacquered Chinese screens to quilted couches, multifaceted mirrors and sparkling chandeliers to clusters of rock crystal, the art and décor are inspiring a new generation of designers charged with reimagining the Chanel aesthetic. The Pluie de Cristal collection combines three of Madame Chanel’s favourite precious materials: white gold, rock crystal and diamonds. The generously sized crystals are custom-cut so that the facets reveal foils inside that are etched with delicate camellias. Each crystal is mounted in pavé white gold open-worked settings and strung together with flexible, almost invisible white gold threads, allowing the stones to speak for themselves. The cascades of diamonds that feature in the collection are a mixture of emerald-, baguette- and round-cut, to give movement to the brilliant reflections. The elegant asymmetry of the Pluie de Cristal pieces chimes with the contemporary mood, and the technical mastery is thoroughly advanced – yet the collection is unmistakably Chanel.

FROM LEFT Chanel “Pluie de Cristal” bracelet, ring and

necklace, all prices on application

FROM LEFT Van Cleef & Arpels “Magic Alhambra” necklaces in white gold with

chalcedony and white and grey mother-of-pearl £16,600, and in yellow gold with

cornelian and tiger’s eye £16,600; “Vintage Alhambra” bracelet in yellow gold with white

mother-of-pearl £2,500, and ring in yellow gold with diamond and tiger’s eye £2,250;

“Magic Alhambra” between-the-finger ring in white gold with white and grey mother-of-

pearl £4,300; and “Lucky Alhambra” butterfly ring in white gold with turquoise £2,950


FROM LEFT Chopard Red Carpet Collection earrings in yellow gold with white and yellow diamonds; ring featuring white and yellow diamonds; and coloured diamond bracelet, all prices on application


JEWELLERYCHOPARDWith a family business to grow into, Caroline Scheufele had to know her stuff. Now Co-President and Creative Director of Chopard, Scheufele made it her life’s work to know all about precious stones, and she spent years globetrotting to hunt out the best. Hence, Chopard has become the go-to place for striking stones, which are cut specifically to enhance their vibrant shades. The new Red Carpet Collection for 2011 lives up to the Swiss jewellery house’s winning formula of the best craftsmanship, the finest materials, flamboyant design and the coolest coloured stones. Taking inspiration from nature, the collection features leaf-shaped peridots, tsavorites and emeralds to evoke the new life in spring, and white diamonds to represent waterfalls and glittering mountain streams. The collection’s key piece, however, is the unique high jewellery ring, which displays a radiant-cut 33ct yellow diamond with diamond shoulders and a pavé-set diamond band. It’s a tiny ray of sunshine of your very own.

CARTIERAn unorthodox approach to jewellery design has given Cartier a distinctive signature that began to evolve back in 1847. The enterprising young goldsmith Louis-François Cartier disregarded trends for their ephemeral nature, and looked instead to cultures from around the world for inspiration. And by the turn of the 20th century his grandsons – Louis, Pierre and Jacques – had made the House of Cartier internationally renowned as an innovative jeweller and watchmaker that used the skills of its craftsmen to create works of art. The Panthère de Cartier Collection draws on the house’s archives, presenting a range of chains, rings and cuffs set with onyx studs, brilliant-cut diamonds, cushion-cut yellow diamonds, chalcedony cabochons, sapphires and emeralds. A classic Cartier yellow gold cuff from the High Jewellery Collection and a “Trinity” ring in yellow, pink and white gold set with diamonds are standout pieces.

FROM LEFT Cartier “Trinity” ring in yellow, white and pink gold with diamonds £27,500; yellow gold and diamond cuff from the High Jewellery Collection, price on application; “Panthére” bracelet in yellow gold with diamonds, onyx and emeralds £19,500, and yellow gold link bracelet £7,150

TIFFANY & CO.Tiffany & Co. has made diamonds its business. Back in 1837, Charles Lewis Tiffany recognised that, where fine jewellery is concerned, the most important focus is the diamond – its cut and, in turn, its setting, to ensure the best possible brilliance. The trademark diamond setting of Tiffany & Co. is recognised as world-class. Six fine platinum prongs are used to lift the stone above the band to let the light touch all of its facets. Introduced in 1886, the setting raised the bar in the world of fine jewellery, and Tiffany & Co. evolved into America’s most prolific jeweller. The house’s new collection plays to its strengths, using innovative, stylised platinum settings in which to display the most brilliant diamonds.

FROM LEFT Tiffany & Co. “Diamond Double Drop Tiffany Swing” necklace in platinum

£29,400; “Fire Opal” drop earrings in platinum £15,500; “Diamond Deco Scroll” bracelet in

platinum £66,000; “Diamond ZigZag” bracelet in platinum £62,000; “Diamond Waterfall”

bracelet in platinum £30,600

JEWELLERY

JEWELLERY


SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE

Rock royalty of the jewellery world Solange Azagury-Partridge has a distinctive aesthetic that she puts down to her passion

for design and her unconventional sense of beauty. Azagury-Partridge discovered

a love of jewellery design while working with decorative-arts dealer Gordon

Watson. Her edgy designs, which use precious stones in nontraditional settings,

quickly won Azagury-Partridge the acclaim of high-profile celebrities, and led

to the opening of her first store, in Notting Hill (her London boutique has since

relocated to New Bond Street). Soon after, she was spotted by Tom Ford, who made

her Creative Director of Boucheron, where she remained for three years. Returning to

London in 2004, Azagury-Partridge honed her inimitable style to include mystical

motifs and mathematical forms found in nature, always using 18kt gold and the most precious and vibrant stones. That

same year, her jewellery was exhibited at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, and in 2008 her designs were shown at

the Victoria and Albert Museum.

FROM LEFT Solange Azagury-Partridge “Opal Fruit” cuff in 18kt blackened white gold with centre opal and multicoloured diamonds,

price on application; “Ruby Hotlips” ring in 18kt blackened white gold with rubies £14,900;

“Cup” ring in 18kt blackened white gold with emeralds, price on application; “Supernova”

ring in 18kt blackened white gold with diamonds, price on application; “Magic” ring in

18kt white gold with diamonds £15,800; and “Black Rainbow” cuff in 18kt blackened white

gold with multicoloured diamonds £69,500

BOUCHERONThe “Quatre” ring, with its four layers of different golds, including a rich Boucheron “chocolate” gold, was an irresistible, stackable sensation that couldn’t be bettered – until Boucheron introduced the “Quatre White Edition”. The brand has adopted ceramic as a luxury material for fine jewellery, appreciating its light weight, durability and resistance to scratches. The white, sculpted Hyceramic band is an alloy specially developed by Boucheron to make it possible to carve. Hence, each of the new White Editions features the House’s iconic graphic textures, including pointe de diamant, grosgrain, gadroons and a smooth mirror-polish band.

THIS PAGE, RINGS FROM TOP Boucheron “Quatre White Edition” diamond pavéd large

ring with three golds and white ceramic £5,050, and small ring in three golds and

white ceramic £1,930; OPPOSITE PAGE, RINGS

FROM TOP Boucheron “Quatre White Edition” diamond pavéd small ring with three golds and

white ceramic £3,870, and large ring in three golds and white ceramic £2,610

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FASHION


modede

Les défilés

Inspired by yesteryear’s haute couture houses, the ’50s silhouette is enhanced by statement jewels and elegant fine timepieces

PHOTOGRAPHER JASON ELL/ SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB/MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR MITCHELL BELK


FASHIONTHIS PAGE, ON CATWALK MODEL Van Cleef & Arpels white gold and diamond “Wisley” clip (worn in hair), price on application and white gold and diamond “Décolleté” earrings £22,400; Talbot Runhof dress £775; Gina shoes from a selection; OPPOSITE PAGE, ON CATWALK MODEL Van Cleef & Arpels white gold and diamond, pearl and mother-of-pearl “Atoll” earrings, price on application; Talbot Runhof dress £799; Christian Louboutin shoes from a selection;OPPOSITE PAGE, ON AUDIENCE, FRONT ROW, LEFT Rake jacket £979 and trousers £349; Ralph Lauren shirt £220; Polo Ralph Lauren tie £85; Hardy Amies pocket square £65; Mr Hare shoes £525; CENTRE Van Cleef & Arpels “Rose de Noël” earclips with mother-of-pearl, gold and diamonds £15,900; Chaumet “Joséphine” diamond necklace £22,560 and (on right hand) platinum and diamond ring, price on application; (on left hand) Solange Azagury-Partridge white gold and diamond “Supernova” ring £32,000 and white gold and diamond “Tree of Life” bracelet £34,000; Miu Miu top and skirt from a selection; Victoria Grant hat £550; Jimmy Choo clutch £450; Christian Louboutin shoes £375; RIGHT TAG Heuer Carrera Heritage Calibre 6 watch in rose gold £6,995; A. Sauvage jacket £875; Mr Start shirt £120; Turnbull & Asser tie from a selection; Canali trousers £199; KG by Kurt Geiger shoes from a selection


FASHION

THIS PAGE, LEFT Van Cleef & Arpels white gold and diamond “Wisley” clip (worn in hair) and necklace, and platinum and diamond “À Cheval” earrings, all prices on application; Roland Mouret dress £1,250; CENTRE A. Sauvage jacket £1,120; Mr Start shirt £129.50; Turnbull & Asser tie from a selection; RIGHT

Harrods Own Label jacket £899, shirt £149 and tie £69.95OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT Erdem dress £950; Yves Salomon fur stole £159; Jimmy Choo shoes £525; SECOND FROM LEFT Richard Mille RM 016 Automatic watch in white gold £58,500; Rake jacket £999 and trousers £349; Ralph Lauren shirt £220; Harrods Own Label tie £69.95; Turnbull & Asser pocket square £50; Mr Hare shoes £525; THIRD FROM LEFT Tiffany & Co platinum, tourmaline and onyx earrings £17,000; Caroline Charles dress £695; THIRD

FROM RIGHT Theo Fennell “Flower Drop” earrings in 18kt rose and white gold with diamonds and brown zircon £11,500, “Bee” motif bead necklace in 18kt yellow and white gold with black jade £5,500, 18kt yellow and white gold, diamond, ruby and black agate “Lion & Snake Cameo” pendant £14,950 and 18kt yellow gold, agate, diamond and ruby “Lion & Snake Cameo” ring £14,500; Antonio Berardi dress £1,899; Siggi fascinator £145; Victoria Beckham clutch £1,195; Christian Louboutin shoes £635; SECOND FROM

RIGHT Mr Start suit £695; Harrods Own Label shirt £129 and tie £49.95; RIGHT Piaget Altiplano 38mm watch £10,000; Canali suit £869 and shirt £129; Mr Start tie £69.50; Turnbull & Asser pocket square £50; Borsalino hat £199; ON COCO THE DOG Majestic Collars diamanté collar from £44.95


FASHION

harrods: watches & fine jewellery

Lifestyle

fine watc room

ground floor

free sprung balance

heart scan

movement closure

barrel cover

rotating barrel

selfwinding movement