Handloom Potentiality Study In

Boudh District

2007-2008 Nihar Dash

Vasundhara 15 Sahid Nagar, Bhubaneswar

1

CHAPTER-1

INTRODUCTION

Historical evolution of Boudh Handloom cluster: - The art of weaving in Orissa was before 600

B.C and the evidence reveals from the caves of

Khandagiri, khurda districts. Some carving in

the temples of Boudh/Sonepur (Baidyanath)

indicates that weaving was in existence in the

area during prior to 9th B.C.

Orissa has history of exporting handloom to

Southeast Asia countries like Thailand, Java,

Borrneo and Sumatra (Last three are Island of

Indonesia) during pre-independence period in sea route. It is therefore the bank of river

Mahanadi and some other big river of Orissa has developed weaving heritage.

Tie-dye weaving in western Orissa came in to existence during mid of 14th century and borrowed

from Raipur, Chatisgarh. King Ramai dev of Patnagarh had invited 100 weavers’ families who

were skilled in tie and dye art. These weavers belonging to Bhulia community and their title is

“Meher”

• Before 1950’s the products mix of Boudh/Sonepur clusters were cotton saris and Dhotis. The

length of fabrics was 12ft and the width of looms was 36 inches. 10 to 14 counts cotton yarn

was used to weave fabrics. During this period only natural dyes were used this was due

unavailability of synthetic dyes [Turmerics, Bark of Aal tree, nile, Hiraska and Chakda

Seeds]

• In 1950’s, late Padamshree Kutartha Acharya established a handloom unit in Sonepur by

installing 200 handlooms.

• In 1954, Dr. Acharya converted his firm into cooperative society named Sambalpuri

Bastrayala Handloom Cooperative Society Ltd, Bargarh, which is at present stand as a

leading PWCS of not only the State but also of the country.

• Synthetic dyes were introduced by Padamshree Kuthurtha Acharya

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• During 1960s, some loom up gradations has been done. The width of looms had been widen

up-to 48 to 50 inches and mercerized fine cotton yarn of 60 counts has been introduced.

• Bomkai design was borrowed from village name “Bomkai” in Gunjam District of Orissa to

Sonepur. The Bomkai Design were developed in late 1980s and introduced in the cluster in

early 1990s in the cluster. And also value addition with zari work was also carried out during

the same periods.

• The entry of private entrepreneurs was started in late 80s and Padamshree is one of them.

• Reduction in number of weaver’s cooperative Societies was due to reduction in government

subsidies, declining support from apex WCS, closer of Handloom Development Corporation

and mismanagement at the primary WCS level was the major reason.

• Handloom is one of the oldest cottage industries in India. Despite the onslaught of modern

technology based industrialization and the proliferation of power looms and composite textile

mills in independent India, handloom continues to occupy a prominent place in the country’s

economy. In a capital scarce and labor surplus economy like India, this traditional cottage

industry has remained as a major source of employment and livelihood to the people next

only to agriculture.

• During the year 1988-89, it provided direct employment to 7.8 million persons and produced

3,665 (13.80%) million meters of cloth out of a total production of 26,554 million meters of

cloth produced in the textiles goods sector of the country.

• In addition to the direct employment, it provides indirect employment to 1.5 persons per

every weaver in the loom engaged in production. Besides all these, the industry through the

backward and forward linkage effects generates employment for many others such as loom

and accessories manufacturers, dyers, printers, processors, twisters, sellers etc. On the whole

the industry provides a total of 5.5 per cent of the employment in the decentralized sector of

the country’s economy.

• Goods manufactured in the handloom sector have also a high export potentiality. Exports

from the handloom sector accounts to the 4% of the total textiles and clothing exports of the

country in terms of the value in rupees, Rs.2600 cores.

• United States of America and European Union are the predominant markets for the Indian

hand-woven materials, apart from Japan and Australia. Together they constitute nearly 70%

of the Indian Handloom Exports. Efforts to tap new Markets like Australia and New Zealand

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are in progress. There are no Quantitative restrictions of operating quotas in this sector and

further the sector enjoys duty draw back and few other exemptions, in comparison with the

other sectors.

• The textile industry has been the backbone of Indian

Economy in view of its significant contribution to

GDP (4%), industrial output (14%), foreign

exchange earnings (1/3rd of total foreign exchange)

and employment (next to Agriculture). Structural

profile of the industry shows that all the segments of

the industry, except spinning are small and Medium

Enterprises (SMEs) and such SMEs are located in

identifiable geographical Clusters in the country.

These SMEs, though enjoy some natural advantages like low costs and flexibility, suffer

from the disadvantages of being in relatively isolated environment and are constrained by

their in capacity to adopt the required technology, improve productivity and access the

markets in an efficient manner. Such constraints faced by the SMEs are generally common in

a Cluster.

Odissi Handlooms: -

Ikat that gloriously woven, blurry edged. Gem-colored

design, in gorgeous yarn of silk and cotton has become

synonymous with Orissa. Speaking eloquently of its old

maritime linkages with Bali, the Ikat tradition of Orissa is

the intricate process of Tie and Dye i.e. knotting selections

of yarn before dipping them in separate colours one at a

time and finally weaving them to produce one of the most

delightful designs in multi-hued tones, in motifs drawn from

the richness of nature, in threads both silken and gold. The

double-ikat designs from Sambalpur are great buys as are the gold embroidered ones from

Sonepur. The Bomkai ikats have motifs drawn from the Shakti Cult.

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Handloom:

In the global scenario of handloom sector, India is number one in position posses 85% of the

world installed capacity. The total world installed capacity is nearly 4.60 Million in which India

share is 3.90 million.

Silk: yarn:

China is world largest producer of silk contributing 60,000 tones of silk. India is the second

largest producer of silk contributing 18 % of the total raw silk produced in the world. But it has

unique distinction of being endowed by nature with all four varieties of silk, namely mulberry,

tassear, Eri and Muga. In the export of Indian silk textiles USA is the most important export

destination followed by United Kingdom and Germany.

Tie and dye textile:

Tie and dye is also known as Ikat design. The word Ikat derived from Malyalam word

“Mangikat” mean to bind, knots, and wind around. If in a fabric the longitudinal (Warp) and

Horizontal threads (Weft) both are dyed with predetermined design and woven to meet each

other in a weaving process by forming a bold design, it is called “Double Ikat”. Incase where a

single yarn either warp or weft is tied to form a specific design during the weaving, it is term as

single Ikat.

Apart from India manufacturing of Ikat textile is also taking place in few other parts of the

world, some of these are “Orkinova Island” Japan, (Shibori) China, Indonesia, Guatemala,

Nigeria and Peru. Weaving with Tie dye in the cluster prior to 40’s was done with

40’’/42’’looms operated with hanging slay and engaged in producing Kapta, Lungi and napkins

made of 12’s/16’s/20’s cotton yarn. The yarns were dyed with vegetable colours. The main

colours were Yellow (from Turmeric), Maroon (From bark of Aal tree), Blue form Nile and

Black (From hirakasi and Chakda Seeds). Fabrics of vegetable colours were sometimes not fast

and ranges of colours were also limited, forcing the Tie-Dye production in to limited colours and

so also the design. Such practice was on vogue till the mid of 40s when vat colour was first

substituted for in place of some vegetable colours.

The next major changes in the cluster took place with the introduction of twisted cotton

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mercerized yarn and synthetic colours in the early 60’s. The looms started widening mainly to

52” width for normal sarees and other production and 90” for double bed sheet production. There

were also few 60’’ / 72” looms to accommodate weaving of middle-sized bed sheets.

Handloom/ Ikat fabrics in India:

Handloom Industries is the oldest of its kind in the world. It is believed that it was in existence

even prior to the writing of the Veda. In the ancient time, the fabrics were in existence woven to

meet the requirement of the family. Use of cotton for production of fabric was started during the

300 B.C.

In India the tie and dye weaving is also found in Andhra Pradesh (Pochampally), west Bengal

(Dhanikhali), Gujrat and Rajastahn. In Andhra Pradesh and west Bengal the weaving of tie and

dye fabric are done by employing Bandha as is done in Orissa whereas in Gujrat and Rajasthan

the woven fabrics are tied and dyed to bring the effect of Tie and dyed on the fabrics. The

Bomkai designs (an extra warp/ weft designs) are under production in Jagatsinghhpur area of

Orissa, santipur area of west Bengal, small pockets of Northeast, yeola in Maharastra and

southern states.

Availability of manpower at reasonable rate, traditionally strong base, beautiful craftsmanship,

reduction of labour oriented industries in developed countries, large population base export

potentiality are some of the major strength of India.

Profile of the Handloom Sector in Orissa:

The textile sector of the state mainly comprises of ginning and pressing, spinning, weaving and

marginally small processing sector. The state produces raw cotton in some of the inland districts

and therefore ginning activities have been started in the state. A recent census of ginning and

processing factories in the countries by textile committees (2001-02) has recorded 14 units out of

which 11 are working. Since the units have been established recently, they are considered

relatively modern in terms of civil structures and modern machineries.

The spinning industries are comprised of 14 units with 367440 spindles of which 4 are only

working. The working units are also not utilizing the installed capacity in full. In the weaving

sector, the only composite unit that is Orissa Textile Mill (OMT) is closed. Therefore, the

weaving is mainly carried out in handloom and power looms. So far as processing is concerned it

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is mostly carried out by hand processing in most unorganized manner. The processing activities

are mainly carried out in tumble wash or by tie and dye techniques. A census carried out by

Textile Committee (1999) for the power processing sector reveals that there is one independent

processor in the state.

No. Of Units, looms and weavers

Sr.

No

Zone Total no of Units Total Looms Weavers

Handloom

1 Central 9848(26.68%) 14290(31.76%) 26535(27.39%)

2 South 6308(17.09%) 7278(16.18%) 17255(17.81%)

3 West 20758(56.23%) 23426(52.06%) 53085(54.8%)

6 Total 37383 46232 98887

The distribution of handloom indicates large number of units in west zone are (56.23%) followed

by central (26.68%) and southern (17.08%) zones. Since each units owns a loom or two, the

distribution of looms apparently show a similar distribution pattern of units as well as the

weavers. Number of handlooms per unit is estimated at 1.21 while the number of weavers

working per unit is 2.62 while per loom it is 2.15.

The organizational set up of handloom industry of Orissa is largely controlled by the master

weavers and the traders (61%). The cooperative movement has been less successful to bring the

artisanal units into the co-operative fold. About 24% of the artisanal units are able to run their

own business enterprises.

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Objectives of the study:

To analyze the socio-economic condition of weavers of selected villages.

To find out different components of handloom based livelihood.

To find out the different marketing channel for weavers at various point of time in these

villages through market mapping and trend analysis.

To analyze the supply and demand of handloom products and have a comparative

analysis of market and consumer preference.

To find out the market’s influence on the handloom based economy and livelihood of

weavers in the study area.

To find out the detail structure of WCS and Corporation and its functions.

To detail out the complete channel system of WCS linked with APEX and institutional

mechanism.

To study the various institutional mechanism for marketing of handloom and to find out

the flaws in them.

To find out the impact of different institutional intervention for strengthening the

livelihood situation of weavers.

To mark out the Government policies in this handloom sector.

To collect information on possible models for strengthening the handloom sector and for

ensuring socio-economic well-being of the weaver community.

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CHAPTER-2

Methodology

Selection of area:

Boudh district accommodates three blocks. For providing a foundation to the research, one

village is picked up from each block and the stricture to choose village is, where weaver

concentration is more. And this village selection process gives a hold to the study and

supplements a general idea on handloom status on entire Boudh dist.

To get an impression of the potentiality of handloom study the following villages are selected in

three Blocks in Boudh district.

• BAUDIAPARA (cluster) under BAUSUNI panchayat in Boudh Block.

• GABJOR village under Kantamal Block.

• CHAMAPUR village under Harbhanga Block.

The followings are the details of the villages:

Sl no.

Village name Total house hold

Total population

No. of weavers family

No. of loom

1 Boudiapara 350 1600 300 650 2 Gabjor 450 2500 425 800 3 Champapur 80 550 75 75

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As the research is based on handloom and its potentiality, the entire Boudh district is marked out

for the research where majority of weaver class is positioned, also it can’t be ignored this belt

contributes a heavy flow of“Sambalpuri saree” in national and international market. This is the

reason propels the idea to venture into the area to find out the potentiality on handloom.

Methods used for the Study:-

• First entry to the village a rapport building was held with all the villagers to break down the

strangeness. This session helped to convey the purpose, objective and need of the study.

• Then the villagers’ availability and time was emphasized so that data can be derived with

villager’s consent.

• The next day each household was surveyed by interview schedule method.

• Also the villagers are assembled once in a week for Focus group Discussion.

Focus Group Discussion: To get information about the historical evolution of Handloom

cluster, weaving techniques especially pre and post looming, technological interventions,

networking with Business Development Service Providers, problems related to weavers etc focus

group discussion were made with the specific group at village level.

• Trend analysis is done to know the various marketing system in different age through this

comparative analysis of different phase of marketing is derived.

Primary data Collection: - Personal Interview: through interview schedule, question were asked to trace the

information related to social & economic condition of weavers, process flow chart, value chain analysis, nature of designs and sources, marketing facility and market channel, level of demand and demand forecast, Government Assistance, level of exposure, motivation level of the stakeholders.

One to one interaction: one to one interactions were done with the traders, master weavers, Government Departments, local NGOs and other concerned agencies.

Secondary Data Collection: -

For the collection of secondary data, magazines, Journals, documents from the office of assistant

Director of Textiles, ORMAS, Textile Committee, Directorate of state Handlooms, Local NGOs

and reports of other concerned agencies were reviewed and studied and information was

incorporated in the baseline report.

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CHAPTER-3

Socio-Economic condition

Social Condition of the weavers in selected area for handloom research:-

• Average Age of the weavers – 35.36 yrs

• Average family size – 4.8 persons / family

• Average Experience in weaving – 18 years

• Annual Average income of weavers family – Rs.15329/-

Particularly the “Meher” caste which falls in “OBC” (other backward caste) adopts this

practice. The community does not prefer to do agriculture or any other livelihood option,

0%

94.20%

3.40% 2.40%

GEN OBC SC ST

CASTE COMPOSITION

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they perceive the handloom practice is traditionally adopted occupation. They do not permit

their eyes to roam around in search for different options except handloom, which has been

practiced since ages. While finding various reasons to adopt this practice, many a views

urged the study to move ahead, 85 % of house hold believe they have adopted this handloom

practice only because it has been running from their forefather’s time considered to be the

family practice, in addition to culture and tradition, it is certain, this practice is shifted from

one generation to next and easily adoptable. Handloom sector has been catering to the

clothing needs of India, and various other countries for centuries together. It is analyzed in

the village that not a single one had some different occupation earlier and changed from

there. It is known that this practice is carried out in a continuous flow from generation to

generation and within the flow one can be fitted into and be eligible to pursue further. These

weavers class of people do not prefer to work in field and expose much. They choose this

alternative as it allows them to sit in shade and perform the task. They are basically not

interested to set out for hard labor in agricultural field. Principal among them is that the

weaving is household profession, passed on through generations.

Economic condition: -

• Majority of the weavers are living in kutcha and thatched, ill-ventilated houses. During

rainy seasons, the floor of these houses often remains wet and sticky; the roof starts

leaking at many places, which affects the work of weaving.

• The annual average income the weavers are about Rs 15329/-.

On an average they are getting 280days work annually from handloom. Three months

during rainy seasons the workflow is decreased.

Overall socio-economic condition of the weavers

• Majority of the weavers i.e. 94.2 % belonging to Meher caste (OBC) and rest are ST and

SC community.

• Average size of the weavers family is 4.8 person / family

• Average experience of weavers in weaving is about 18 yrs

• Average annual income of weavers family is Rs 15239

• Women are confined to house and involved in bobbin and jala uplifting work.

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• The literacy rate among the weavers is less due involvement of children in jala uplifting

and other related work of weaving.

• Absence of social security particularly amongst the average and poor weavers makes

them indebted to the upper income groups such as the master weavers and traders.

• Due to gradually decreasing in the wages leads the younger generation to explore the

other options of occupations.

• The self-sufficient weavers spend on daily necessities, schooling and if savings permit on

durables such as Elmira, music systems, television sets.

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CHAPTER-4

Components of handloom based livelihood

Looms in a family:

Each family in the village is equipped with one handmade loom. The looms are manually

operated and each loom is not at all mechanized, it requires many techniques and skill to

organize before going for weaving. The initial investment to deploy a loom cost around 2500-

3000/- in early age but now if someone install a loom newly it cost around 5000/-In most of the

cases it is seen people have not set up a new one they have reused their ancestral property by

reshaping or modifying little.

Distribution of Households by loom size:

Zone One loom 2-4 loom Above 4 loom Total

Central 6752(68.57%) 2965(30.11%) 130(1.32%) 9847

South 5541(87.84%) 756(11.98%) 11(0.17%) 6308

West 18891(91.01%) 1788(8.61%) 80(0.39%) 20758

Total 31184(84.48% 5509(14.92%) 221(0.60%) 36914

The handloom industry is dominated by single loom units (84.48%). The units having 2 to 4

looms are around 14.92% and more than 4 looms is almost negligible. Single loom units are

dominated in west zone while the central zone shows a better picture of looms per unit.

The handlooms industry is decentralized and dispersed. The clustered growth of the units is on

account of the skill and ability of the artisan to produce a particular product category himself or

14

herself, which other did not have the knowledge to replicate. For the purpose of identifying the

major handloom cluster centers of the states, a group of at least 200 artesian units was taken as

the benchmark (i.e. all village / blocks are more than 200 units formed a cluster). On adoption of

the above criteria, it is observed that more than 55% of the units are concentrated in major

clusters with almost 27435 looms. District like cuttack, Jagatsinghpur, Balasore and Jajur in

central zone, Nayagarh and Ganjam in south zone and Bargarh, Bolangir, Boudh, Nupara and

Soneur in west zone are clearly identified as handloom cluster districts.

Value chain analysis:

Most of the weavers are having pit looms with Jala. This differentiates the cluster from other

handloom clusters. In these cluster more than 50 % looms are attached with Dobby and this helps

in making extra warp design in especially border part of the sari. An intricate design woven in

fabric by tie-dye methods in this cluster is unique.

Expenditure incurred in maintenance of weaving accessories:

Sno.

Items

Cost (In Rs)

Frequency of replacements / Maintenance

1 Shuttle 100 Annually 2 Reed 500 - 600 Annually 3 Nylon twine 300 - 500 Annually 3 Jala (Nylon twine) 250 - 300 Annually 4 Dobby 500 - 800 Three years 5 Wooden parts 500 Five years 6 Others (pirn, chadki, natai,

charkha etc.) 200 Annually

The average annual maintenance required is about Rs 150 per month.

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Raw Materials

• Mulberry silk, Tussar silk, cotton yarn (Mercerized), Artificial silk, Jari and dye stuffs

Expenditure incurred in raw material

ITEMS YARN COST (IN RS.)

DYE STUFFS COSTS (IN RS.)

TOTAL COST OF R/M

SILK SARI 1300 - 1400 50 1350 - 1450 COTTON SARI 300 – 400 100 400 - 500 DRESS MATERIAL (SILK, 1 SET 7.5 MET)

1300 - 1500 60 1360 - 1560

OTHERS (GAMUCHA) 80 40 120 Process flow chart Analysis

Process Stake holders Support Strength Weakness Procurement of Raw material, e.g. Silk, cotton & zari, Artificial silk (Murga) Ultra oil etc

By the yarn dealer, Master weavers

Local yarn suppliers (cotton and silk)

Easily available on credit and at required quantity

Quality not assured Higher price

De-gumming (Silk) Weavers Own houses Inadequate de-gumming process practiced

Dyeing (Silk and cotton)

By weavers skilled dyers

Dye suppliers:

Inadequate dyeing process practiced resulting in Colour fastness

Winding Warp and weft

Warping and weft perning by the weaver family especially women

Short warping consumes more time

Looming & Jala fitting

By the weaver and his family

Service providers are easily available

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Product Variety: The product mixes of selected Handloom clusters are: -

• Plain silk sari (Tie & Dye / Bomkai Anchal)

• Plain silk sari with double Ikat

• Silk sari with extra warp & weft body design (Mostly weft

processed)

• Silk sari with Jari work

• Silk sari with Tie & Dye as well as Bomkai design on single sari

• Cotton tie & dye sari

• Silk Dress material

Products in high demand in current market:

The weavers produce the following varities of “Sambalpuri Sari”:

• Badi Bamkai

• Badi Bandha

• Dhari Sakta

• Kumbha

• Buti

• Badijala

• Jala bomkai (this variety has more price than other, here

the wage the weaver get 1500/- but they supposed to get

2000/- of wage in this variety)

Even if the weavers have the skill to explore new design of

their own still they never think to do because always a risk factor involved. If they experiment it

may be possible the trader won’t prefer to take or the newly experimented may not fit into the

current taste. So the fear always drags their interest not to explore new items. The weavers are

well versed with the real scenario; they have to suppress their skill and their hands are forced to

knit on the design provided by the trader.

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Product-wise wages

Sno Products Wages (In Rs.) / Days

1 Bomkai silk sari 600 – 1500 (10 days to 30 days)

2 Silk tie dye sari 500 – 800 (10 days to 15 days)

3 Cotton tie dye sari 300 – 500 (5 to 10 days)

4 Cotton Bomkai sari 700 – 1100 (10 to 15 days)

5 Dress material (7.5 mtr) 1200 (10 days- 15 days)

5 Others (Gamucha) 30 – 40 (1 piece)

Nature of design and sources:

• The local designers develop natural traditional

designs in the graph. For Ikat design on the fabric,

design is developed in yarn by tie & dye makers

and woven by weavers. Similarly for Bomkai

design fabrics, Jala is arranged accordingly for

weaving the same design.

• The famous traditional design was Sakta (Square)

Design. Basically animals flowers, leafs, trees,

fishes, temples, Rudhrakshya, sankha, nartaki,

Pasapalli, Patlibomkai, Sachipur etc are

developed in the fabrics.

• The design of animals on the fabrics is stopped, as

it is no more in demand among the consumers.

Response of woven design

• Locally these designs are acceptable but it has less response outside the state. 67 % weavers

have admitted to this fact. In respect of the other cluster products especially from south, the

products of Boudh handloom cluster are gradually decreasing day by day.

• The major competition of Boudh products is from the Handloom cluster products of

Coimbatoor and also from the product of power loom outside the cluster.

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Design and raw material issue:

• Similar design is developing in the fabrics from last several years, which have been copied

by power looms, as well as the other Handlooms cluster especially from south and producing

similar design sari having fewer prices.

Rejection of fabrics

• Inferior weaving quality, improper setting of tie & dye design on the fabrics, improper

preparation of tie & dye yarn as per design, quality of yarn, colour fastness are the major

reason for the rejection of woven fabric.

Gaps in the process:

• Short warping consumes more time.

• Time and duration in de-gumming process is not maintained resulting less colour stickiness

during dyeing

• Inadequate process in dyeing resulting in colour fastness

• Availability of quality raw material especially dyestuffs

Present Production

• Mostly silk sari, cotton sari, dress material & gamucha (Towel) are produced in this cluster.

The relative share of the products are as follows

Items Nos. of pieces % Shares

Saries 202569 99.7%

Dress materials 320 0.08%

Others (Towels) 6063 0.22%

• Mainly Dobby is attached with pit looms for extra warp design especially in the border part

of the saris. Jala is also attached to the pit looms for ornamentation of Anchal and body with

extra weft yarn as per motives.

Strength and weakness of the present production system:

• Use of traditional preparatory work is more time consuming. This can be reduced if they will

go for long warping.

• Adopting centralized dyeing could reduce dyeing expenses as well as colorfastness.

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Development of new design

• Similar design sari and fabrics is being produced from last many years. Times to time

changes are being made in the existing design keeping the originality of the design & new

designs are developed.

• Initially Bomkai and Ikat design was developed separately in the fabrics. But due to demand

of intrinsic design on the fabrics by consumers, weavers are developing Bomkai design and

Ikat design on the same sari.

Need of product Diversification

• Only 7.9 % of the respondent has

shown interest for product

diversification and more than 93 % of

respondent like to produce the same

products. This is because they are

earning on regular basis from this jobs

although their wages are low. But if

they go for new product then there is

market risk of not selling the produced

items.

Product demand

• Generally Bomkai sari has large demand in inside the Orissa & Delhi. These saris are also

sold in the other part of the country like Mumbai, Gujarat, and west Bengal etc. But

according to the master weavers the demand of Boudh handloom products in these places are

comparatively low.

• During the months of March to May the selling of Boudh Handloom product are large. This

is because the cost of the product is comparatively high and women prefer to wear these saris

only in marriage occasions, festivals and party. During rest time Boudh Handloom products

are being sold outside the state like Delhi, Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Kolkata and other part of

the country.

7.90%

93%

weaver agreed weaver not agreed

Weaver agreed for product diversification

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The above is the present trend of the product mix. Demand of Bomkai silk sari is comparatively

greater due to its intrinsic design in Anchal. Demand of dress material and other running material

can be increased if new Designs/ Pattern is introduced and new market is explored.

Nature of the involvement of weavers: • More than 99 % of the weavers are Job

workers and working under master

weavers or traders. About 1% is

independent weaver who uses to weave

sari by investing his own money and sell

sari by own, either to the master

weavers, traders or markets.

• The motivation levels of the highly skilled

weavers are high. This is because they

getting legitimate wages in weaving work.

• Other weaver’s motivations are medium.

This is because they are getting regular

employment through this crafts although

their wages are low.

• There are very few weavers i.e 3.62 %

have high exposure.One to one

interaction with them we could know

that they are well acquainted with

Weaver Service Centre, Bhubaneswar,

NIFD, Bhubaneswar, few NIFT and

NID. They also have knowledge about

the Developmental project of

development Commissioner for Handlooms.

Level of Motivation

14.30%

37.70%48.00%

High Medium Low

Weaver Dependency

99%

1%

Weaver under MasterWeaver/Traders

Independent Weaver

Level of Exposure

3.62%

68.09%

28.29%

– – -

High Medium Low

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• 68.09 % of weavers have medium exposure. They are acquainted with the office of

Assistance Director of Textile, Boudh, Boyanika, Sambalpuri vastralaya and local Market.

• 28.29 % of the total weavers have very low exposures. They are only weaving under master

weavers and whatever they get their wages they are satisfied with it. They also do not take

bother for exploring new market. They are not acquainted with the other handloom clusters,

their products and technology.

22

Trader (2) Weaver

(1)

Show room/shop, consumer (3)

CHAPTER-5

Mapping of the Handloom Market and Trend Analysis

Mapping of Market:

So if the market channel is looked, the weaver makes product to hand it over to the trader from

whom raw material is procured. The Boudiapara and Gabjor villagers are tied up with the traders

of Sonepur and Monomunda. But the weavers of Champapur carry out their business deal with

the traders of Ainlapali, Gajrajpur, Bausuni and Butupali. The trader provides the design of

current trend also the required raw material to the weaver and with a compulsion the weaver knit

with a stipulated time frame. The weaver has only satisfaction to get the wage in time though it is

very nominal. Always the trader has the capability to bargain not the weaver if the weaver

becomes rebellious for the nominal wage than immediately the trader delivers a readymade

speech to relinquish the weaver from job, as the trader well-versed with the prevailing situation

of weaver and trader has no scarcity of weaver, that is why the weaver has completely

understood to be speechless and accomplish the task.

The market is mapped as the weaver procures raw materials from trader with whom he has been

transacting from different areas. Than weaving is performed again the weaver hand the finished

products over to the trader and trader supplies those to the respective shops and show rooms

situated at Bolangir and Boudh.

23

Trend Analysis related to market channel:

The marketing history of handloom is divided into three distinct phases, each characterized by

different systems of market existing at these phases. Division of phases of marketing history has

been done on the basis of comparative accounts of community members of different age group.

1st generation (1945-1961):

To carry out the trend analysis and to know the market

system of that particular period of time, a group of

weavers is selected who has witnessed detail situation of

that age. The weavers experience and the marketing

strategy of that phase clearly depicts the weavers had a

strong hold on the local market or village hatt,

occasionally they preferred to travel Boudh and Sonepur

area. But basically their products regulated the weekly

bazaar. The biggest cause of controlling the market was

there no such introduction of other variety of product except handloom and the consumer had not

shifted their choice to other varieties, they accepted it as their need than fashion. The weaver

rotated their transaction within 5km that is reflected in the graph, this distance always pleased the

need of the weaver; this time transport was done by walk or bicycle. The weaver procured raw

material from the local trader with a very nominal price of 6-7 Anna without any condition. The

weaver could easily sell the finished product in the market or to the trader in his price, as there

was no such struggle in the market so the weavers’ hands were not empty while returning from

market.

Varied product at that phase:

Bahar Gudia

Mandar Phulia

Dantia Dhoti

Chandankura

Dhubuli

24

Weaver

WCS APEX

These varied products the weaver could knit, 17 no. Of thread was used to weave which now

changed to 92-100 no. of thread. The more the thread number increases more it becomes finer

and delicate.

The gist of this age the weaver did not have any crisis in marketing their product and have no

such arena; anywhere they could stir to satisfy their trading. Whatever they could achieve

through knitting was effortlessly sold in the market; this smooth selling was a great contribution

of consumer also who preferred to pay money for the product, as they did not have ultimate

option left.

2nd generation (1962-1992):

This period has witnessed the intervention of Weaver Cooperative Society (WCS). In the year

1962 WCS was lunched and established in almost all weaver concentrated villages, the purpose

for this set up was to lift up the economic condition of weaver mass also there many a provision

lunched mainly supplying raw material and marketing facilities. Some members were selected

from village level for WCS for better management and for getting registered Rs 10/- was

required per weaver. This structure allured the weaver mass as the required raw material and

accurate wage were available at their doorstep; gradually weaver withdrew their idea of direct

marketing and became full dependent on WCS. Weaver found an ease in transacting with WCS,

by this time the weaver had shifted all load of marketing the finished product to the WCS only

the weaver learned to procure raw material from WCS, give a shape to it and hand it over to

WCS and get immediate wage. WCS had never manipulated in providing true wage and raw

material in this regard weavers were satisfied. But the understanding between weaver and WCS

became so deep that weaver had stopped transacting with any local trader.

The structure of WCS was as follows:

The above graph depicts the structure of WCS, here weaver get raw material from WCS, present

the finished product to the WCS and WCS were financially supported by co-operatives banks in

the form of loan to buy raw materials. Other kind of assistance of WCS was taken care by the

Apex/Byonika and from Apex products were spread out to different fairs, exhibition and direct

25

Weaver

Corporation APEX

Show room/fairs/exhibition

market. WCS was providing design in graph paper which was in vogue accordingly weavers

could able to give shape. The distance between WCS and Village was near about 5km to have

an easy access in any point of time. The WCS was providing 40/60 no. thread in year 1962 and

the range of products produced which were in high market demand are as follows:

Mandar phulia

Chandra udian

The WCS was providing 80 no. of thread to the weaver in year 1970 and the range of products

were as follows:

Chandrakura

Buta saree

Badadhadi

Sanadhadi

These varieties were of its unique kind could proficient to capture the market.

From 1962 to 1992 there was a smooth running of WCS contributed a huge assistance to the

weaver and there was a good tune up between Society and weavers. It never allowed bringing a

un-satisfaction level among weavers. Soon it touched year 1992 Govt. had passed an order to

form Weaver Corporation. The intention of forming Weaver Corporation was to get enrolled

other weaver who had not been registered under WCS. Corporation had no such different

structure than WCS only it declared to facilitate electricity per weaver’s house hold if they

withdraw their name from WCS and get registered in Corporation for this offer in the year 1992

the weaver mass had withdrawn their name from WCS and got enrolled in Corporation with a

package of electric board and a bulb, in this process the WCS lost the strength, powerless to

function and became defunct. Still the weavers were in high spirits as nothing hampered to them

but got an additional support of electricity, the transaction continued with corporation just like

WCS. Now weaver were provided raw materials from corporation and the finished product were

taken out by the corporation again those were sent to Apex and from Apex the products were

distributed to different show room, fairs, exhibitions.

26

Weaver

Trader Exhibition/fair/

showroom, consumer

In Corporation the structure could able to maintain a good tune up between weaver and

corporation. During the dealing process of WCS /Corporation the private trader offered more

wages than these institutions but the weaver community had not skipped because they felt an

easiness and authenticity in these institutions but soon the year1998 arrived unpredictably govt.

had passed a order to close all corporation and so far the reason is yet to be derived. All the

weaver corporations were packed up, the weaver were shocked and become jobless, no single

option left for the weaver all the door were blocked neither they were able to back WCS as that

was defunct for the intervention of corporation nor protest against corporation. The weaver

community got scattered and anxious to be engaged to strive for living, this opportunity was

taken by the private trader, and all the weavers were distributed and worked under local traders

with a deduction of 200 /- from the usual wage. The wage 900/- they availed from

WCS/Corporation per product now deducted to 700/- but bound to weave because they did not

have other substitute left and any mean family has to be run. Since 1998 to till date the weavers’

wage has been 700/-.

3rd generation (1998-2008):

It is seen in the village, the people who totally depend on weaving do not have money to buy raw

material of their own so this advantage is taken by the local trader locally called “Sahukar” who

provides them raw material with a condition that the weaver has to submit the entire finished

product in trader’s hand in lieu of that the weaver hand is achieved with a very nominal wage

from the trader.

The research clearly reveals that the weavers are not governing market but governed by the

market, this is verified not only in one village but crossed examined in three villages

(Boudiapara, Gabjor and champapur). Local traders have come to dominate the handloom market

and they are the ones who are dictating terms to the weaving community, which shows that these

communities are entirely at the mercy of the private traders.

The structure is as follows:

27

The wage the weaver got from society/cooperative was as follow:

• 900/- wage per “Pata saree”

• 700/- wage per “Cotton saree”

If we see the trader’s structure:

• 700/- wage per “Pata saree”

• 500/- wage per “Cotton saree”

The weaver cannot go for direct marketing because weaver does not have sufficient finance to

purchase raw material even that could be adjusted still there are problems in marketing in direct

way. If such risk is taken by the weaver than for marketing the finished product the trader is

consulted and often the trader has a revengeful mentality to reject the offer because the weaver

has not taken raw material from him than if the weaver still venture forward to tie up with the

seller here often the seller does not give instant money back so the weaver has to wait till the

product is sold than price can be received. Usually the weaver always requires immediate money

back to run the family and that money again used in rotational basis to make some more

products. Here one main thing should be added that the market is shifted 20 km from the weaver,

earlier in two phases there would not be any talk of far market as it was within the reach of 5km.

Essence of trend analysis: The trend analysis of three generation is put in comparison than the first generation had availed

the best marketing system, community of that age had an openness and flexibility in trading, and

no such condition blocked their way in transaction. From procuring raw material to weaving to

marketing there was liberty in the hand of weaver. The govt. had over looked the sector no

institution were established still there was flow of silkiness in transacting. Weaver needed to

expand the transaction area his every demand and need was satisfied in localized market.

But if we see the second phase when Society and Corporation were introduced community

became fully dependent and the individuality was vanished. The confidence to develop self-

entrepreneurship quality was completely cleaned out as these institutions took charge of

providing materials and marketing. The structure functioned up to certain period where the

unpredicted step was hidden weaver mass had a strong faith on these institution by the time the

28

weaver could realize something one declaration of govt. had closed every option to sustain for

livelihood. This decision of govt. was responsible for the existing situation of weaver.

In the third phase the private trader took the chance of institutional failure and exploited by

reducing the wage and the weaver without getting any option had to work under trader with that

minimal wage.

Market Facility and Market channel: • Products have good demand inside the state. In addition to this it also goes to the other state

like Maharastra, Gujarat, Uttar- Pradesh and few south part of the country.

• The products have not any export market.

Level of demand and Demand forecasted: • Mainly Bomkai silk sari and cotton sari are the major products of Boudh handloom cluster.

The total sale of the products of this cluster is about 18 crores.

Highlight the level of demand and demand forecast: • Demand of Bomkai design silk sari especially in Delhi, Mumbai & inside Orisa is

comparatively greater due to its intrinsic design. Demand of dress material and other running

material can be increased if new Designs/ Pattern is introduced and new market is explored.

Future of weaving as per individual weavers: • Most of the weavers responded as dark future of weaving. This is due to decreasing demand

of the Boudh products due to competition from the power looms as well the products of the

other cluster resulting gradual curtail in wages of weavers.

• Due to gradual curtail in wages semi skill weavers are shifting to other occupations like tea

stalls, Dhaba, tent house, PCO etc. The weavers who have left weaving work found not

getting proper work and wage to run their livelihoods.

Highlight of the future of the weaving industries:

• Most of the weavers responded as dark future of weaving. This is due to decreasing demand

of the Sambalpuri products and gradual decrease in the wages of the weavers.

• Due to continuous decrease in the wages of the weavers declining the interest of next

generation to associate with weaving works.

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CHAPTER-6

Institutional mechanism/Sketch of SMSEs and other Cluster Actors: -

The following major actors are in the cluster:

• Weavers.

• Dyers/ Tie & Dye Makers / Designers / preparatory workers.

• Raw Material Suppliers/ Traders / Manufacturers.

• Weavers Cooperative Societies.

• Government Departments - State.

• Finance institutions

Weavers: -

A weaver is either a job worker-receiving yarn or design, handing over a woven product and

receiving wages – or a businessman in his own right. There are also a class of weavers who

purchase yarn by own and convert it according to their own design and sell the products by own

risk. But they are few in numbers.

Master Weavers: -

Decade back, this category was itself engaged in the weaving occupation but today they are

mainly traders who undertake the overall responsibility of taking orders and getting them

executed. They own looms and get weaving done on contractual basis. Usually, directly or

indirectly, they control anything from 5-10 looms to about 30-40 looms. They supply the weaver

with raw material, which is dyed under their supervision, and the design briefs. They pay for the

charges incurred by the weaver both for warping as well as for weaving.

COOPERATIVES: -

Before the Industrial Revolution handlooms had a lion’s share in the textile market.

Subsequently, on advent of technology, power looms and Mills began to dominate the market. At

the post World War II era, a scheme was in force by the GoI called Control cloth Scheme by

which Yarn Distribution Cooperatives were formed which were subsequently converted into

Weavers’ Cooperative Society (WCS). An apex body of the WCS was formed named ‘Boyanika’

in 1956. The introduction of Janata Scheme made the WCS more dependent on subsidies, which

30

though helped the better living standards of the weavers but also damaged their conditions of

becoming independent. There are 99 Weavers’ Cooperative Societies in the cluster, out of this,

37 are working, 53 are moribund and 9 WCS are now found totally closed and defunct. 17,125

members are enrolled in the cooperatives. In 2004-2005 the sales turnover of the societies is

Rs.1334.63 lakhs out of which silk materials had a share of Rs.1090 lakhs and cotton products

Rs.243.07 lakhs.

Percentage Involvement of weavers in cooperative folds: • There are 39 WCS registered with handloom office out of which only 20 are active.

Factors responsible for failure of co-operative sectors: -

• The structure was not formed in a participatory way; people did not feel any ownership over

it.

• There was bias in member selection process; the selected members were the influential

persons of the area; no unanimous decisions were made during the selection process.

• The selected members were completely unaware of managing the system; that part was not

taught properly so mismanagement was resulted.

• The selected president/secretary cultured ideas of manipulation in financial matters because

there was no such stringent monitoring mechanism from the govt. official to check up. By the

by they learnt how to make up-to-date records in pen and paper.

• Then the members were linked with the higher level of govt. officials to scheme and make

plots to gobble up the facilities provided for the weaver. This way the weavers were

deprived of all the facilities but neatly and cleanly the provision for weaver was recorded in

the official note.

• The government offered the weavers electricity if they shifted from a society to a

corporation. This allured the weavers to shift to a corporation, after which the society

became strength-less and was then defunct.

• Through the selected members of society the villagers procured raw material for four saris

but they handed over three finished products and the remaining one they sold in market that

was considered as extra income. But in society’s registered book it was found transparent. At

a later stage the society could not compensate for the loss.

31

• Also the secretary and president of WCS schemed to procure a good variety of sari whose

cost is 2500/- and sold those to their prefixed traders. But keeping other goods whose cost

was low compensated the stock and quality was poor, a result of which there was always

rejection from APEX.

• If measuring the reasons of WCS’ failure then one more indication is that the WCS have

never tried to scrutinize the market trends and customer demand, there was no stress given on

up-gradation on design and style, it kept on maintaining in a stereotyped way so gradually the

products were not appealing to the buyer.

• Before 1992 the linked banks had a provision to grant 15000/- out of a 100,000/- loan for

smooth maintenance of WCS, members’ salaries, meetings and repayment of loan interest.

But in 1992, the Govt. had stopped granting 15000/- with an intention that the WCS was

sufficient enough from “sale price” but the managers of WCS were found to be incompetent

to run a unit in sales price without any grant, which resulted the interest of the loan amount

could not be repaid and bank blocked financing to WCS and it got defunct.

Elaboration: -

Lack of member’s involvement: - involvement of the members in the affairs of the co-

operative is conspicuous by its absence.

Ownership: - most members do not realize that they are the owners of the co-operative.

According to them the co-operative is a Government organization.

Members do not understand the rules and regulations: - most members have never

understood the circumstances in which the co-operatives were organized nor they had any

role in formulating the rule and regulations to govern the co-operatives. Mostly they do not

understand the intricacies of the rules and regulations, which lead to a feeling of alienation.

Do not understand the members’ role and responsibilities: - since the co-operatives are

considered to be a Government organization or a service organization created by some

unknown persons they have never understood their role and responsibilities.

Co-operative is a service provider to the public:- most members feel that the co-operative has

been set up by the Government/some unknown persons to provide services and take care of

the problems of the public as a whole. They do not understand that co-operatives are

supposed to be organized or the members and by the members. This leads them to believe

32

that the co-operatives should provide them certain services irrespective of the costs and

financial implications involved.

Lack of co-operation:- the growing uncertainties and problems in the society have made it

difficult for the people to co-operate amongst them, which is the essential and the very basic

condition for successful running of a co-operative. In many cases the members are even not

allowed to co-operate themselves.

In the initial phase of co-operative formation in the country and also in Orissa many person

dedicated to the task of nation building and the freedom movement provided leadership to the

peoples’ efforts in formation and management of co-operatives. This was the situation till

sixties. Later on these pioneers were disturbed from their positions and ultimately most had

to leave their position of leadership of the co-operatives, which they had so painstakingly

built. This situation continues to this date. Now question rose why such pioneers were

scattered, but the fact of the matter is that the co-operatives did not enjoy the type of

leadership that was required to steer them in the socio-economic environment prevalent in

the country. After 1991 the matters worsened. Today most persons occupying the positions

of leadership have following characteristics:

They generally do not understand the business environment also do not appreciate the

necessity of entrepreneurial skill to manage a business.

They generally do not have any vision for the members the immediate society or the society

as a whole.

Most of them are unethical and unscrupulous.

They generally do not have the much-required touch to the problems of the members.

They are generally seems to be acting on the basis of both short-term long-term self-interest.

They are generally non-user members and in some cases non-members.

Issues concerning management of co-operatives:- The General Body (GB): - The General Body of the co-operative is the supreme authority for the management of the co-

operative however, in most cases it is observed there is serious flaws as illustrated below:

Improper constitution of GB: -many a time the GB is constituted by fake members and last

minute additions are manipulated to garner support for the so-called leaders.

Lack of proper participation: - most members neither understand nor participate in the

deliberation of the GB. They are generally silent observer.

33

Unable to appreciate the issues concerned: - even those who try to understand the problem

faced by the co-operatives are unable to do so because they are always kept in the dark.

Improper policy formulation: - the GB fails to prepare proper policy. If policies adopted are

not proper this reflects in the functioning of the co-operative. What is observed is that the

executive does not get desired guideline for carrying out management of the affairs of the co-

operative. Often it is observed that the policies adopted by the GB are against the interest of

majority of members or have no relation to the members’ interest. Policies are formulated at

the behest of the Government representatives.

Management committees: - The management committee or Board of directors is the effective body for formulating major

policies and taking most executive decisions. But it is generally observed that the board has the

following serious draw-backs which hinder proper functioning of the co-operatives:

Generally Board members do not represent member’s interest.

The Board members do not get themselves involved in understanding the business aspect and

are generally engaged in day-to-day functioning with emphasis on expenditure management.

Generally decision-making is not based on business considerations and is taken on the basis

of cheap popularity considerations. This has been the single most important problem, which

has resulted in eroding the financial strength of the co-operatives and as a result led to lack of

members’ and public confidence in co-operatives.

Unable to foresee long-term issues and often taking decisions on the basis of short-term

consideration.

Unable to manage the multi-commodity issues.

The chief executive: - The chief executive of the co-operative like any other business organization is the fulcrum of the

organization on which rests the balance of the co-operative. The chief executive has to run the

co-operative on a day to day basis and has to balance various interests that generally are in

conflict. Based on the chief executive’s recommendations the Board or any other authority can

take a final decision. The role of the chief executive is to maintain a balance between members’

interest and the market conditions. The chief executive is to lead the staff of the organization.

34

While the position of the chief executive is so important that the major problems that has been

the feature across the country in all types of co-operatives are:

Often very wrong people occupy this position. It is due to faulty selection, procedure and

inability to spot out talent.

Most of the chief executives lack the professionalism that co-operatives require. In the

difficult environment that the co-operatives operate this becomes a major hindrance.

Often the Board does not give the Chief Executive adequate support, which is very much

required for carrying out his/her responsibilities.

Unable to provide leadership to the staff.

Generally is seen to be playing the role of the assistant to the so-called leaders of the co-

operatives.

The employees: - The specific issues concerning the employees that are relevant as regards failure of co-operatives are:

Most employees consider the co-operative as a Govt organization and accordingly behave

They lack the required motivation for performing

Often employee interests dominate decision making in the co-operatives

Most employees do not appreciate the members’ interests.

According to the employees they consider that they are not accountable to the management

of the co-operative.

Issue concerning Government and co-operative law: - In most co-operative the senior management positions are filled by Government official on

deputation the co-operative. Even in primary co-operatives the secretary of the co-operatives is

generally a person deputed from the Government or he is part of the state wide/district wide

cadre. Due to this it becomes very easy for the senior bureaucrats in the Government to push

through Government policies and programmes. In fact most of the co-operatives more than 80%

of the business activity is due to the Government scheme and programmes. The co-operatives

have in fact become delivery arms of the Government. For most senior bureaucrats co-operatives

have become a good place for enjoying benefits and power. The important issues in this regard

that has a bearing on the failures of co-operatives are:

The official of the co-operative do not manage the co-operative to protest the interests of the

members. Rather they work for protecting their own interests and that of the Government.

35

The officials do not appreciate the members’ interest and thyeir situation.

The officials impose Government regulations on the co-operative and in the process have

made the co-operative an employee oriented organization rather that a member driven

organization.

Political interference and wrong motive: -

The politicians are expected to appreciate the issues concerning co-operatives and act in a

manner to strengthen the co-operative movement. But instead they have treated co-operatives as

a ground for their experimentation of power politics through most unethical means.

Issues concerning political interference that contribute to the failures of the co-operatives are:

The co-operative election is manipulated to capture power though most unethical means. In

fact the co-operative election is worse than the election for parliament.

Mostly non user members/non-members get elected to the positions of power

Politicians interfere in the affairs of the co-operative both directly and through the

bureaucrats. Mostly the politicians have used the co-operative for their own political motives

that are generally against the members’ interest.

The co-operative Law is a Bad Law: -

The law itself provides for large-scale political and bureaucratic interference in the

management/operation of co-operatives. Even in those cases where the co-operative has a good

leadership and appropriate Chief executive such operatives have also suffered badly due to the

wrong provisions of the co-operative Acts in all states specific issues concerning the co-

operative laws that has lead to the failures of the co-operatives are:

Scope for membership of non-user persons.

Scope for Government officials to manage co-operatives.

Lack of flexibility on the part of the co-operatives.

Instead of being managed by the rules and regulations framed by the members the co-

operative law forces the co-operatives to be guided by the rules and regulations framed by

bureaucrats.

Registrar of the co-operatives is the real seat of the power for all co-operatives and he/she

can take any type of decision and justify the same by referring to the co-operative Act.

36

The above are some critically scrutinized data about the flaws of society derived from village

level. Almost all WCS are defunct since 1998 there has not been any kind of transaction between

WCS and weaver still it’s very bizarre that govt. data provides a stuff of laugh when it

reluctantly declares about smooth functioning of all society the most amazing thing is all most all

area there is even no physical existence of society.

Intervention of ORMAS: -

ORMAS has intervened in 15 districts of Orissa

setting up the intention to strengthen the socio-

economic status of weaver. The intention and purpose

was come across while conducting the research at

Bausuni village. ORMAS has established a training

centre there to provide training and has strategized to

raise the economic situation of weaver. At Bausuni

the established training center of ORMAS is named

as ORIFAB governed by DRDA dept. Boudh. The

required raw material is provided by ORMAS. The

loom, which is brought from Tamilnadu, is designed

in such a way that one man can operate it, not like the

whole family is engaged in weaving. It saves the wastage of unnecessary manpower if one can

handle than other member in the family can be busy in other activities.

This machine equipped with punch card adjusted according to the design. With this machine

there are many an element supplemented too which assist the weaver for tying, dying and

segregating the thread.

37

The formed strategies are as follows:

• ORMAS had a target to form 100 groups 10 members are

accommodated in one group.

• The stricture to form group where 7 members should be

in BPL category and 3 are in APL category.

• Two blocks Kantamal and Boudh are selected in Boudh

dist.

• With a heavy struggle it has formed 50 groups in two

blocks.

• The group members should be women only.

• Each group is provided training in phase wise basis.

• A month is required to train a group.

• After training each individual in a group would be

provided 25000/- through bank and a loom brought from

Tamilnadu.

• Than the trained member could become self-reliant to

purchase raw material of their own use those in weaving and would be intimated from

nearest ADT (Additional Directorate of Textile positioned at Boudh) where to market. This

way they could able to keep stock and trade in a rotational basis.

Basically these are the purpose of ORMAS but a new picture has come up when analyzed its

strategies in the field which quite differ from the strategies framed out by ORMAS,

The followings are some sight of those real implemented strategies of ORMAS in the

ground:

• No such criteria are followed to select member and when asked a concrete reply for selection

process is not achieved.

• Women are selected to be in-group but simultaneously they are convinced to be busy in

house work and male member would be trained. That is witnessed in the visit of ORMAS

training center at Bausuni, the member’s husband were being trained and when asked they

out rightly answered back how come a woman can attain training from 10 am to 4pm as she

is engaged in other house work. It is scanned the real group member (women) are the

occasional visitor of the training centre.

38

• According to the procedure first a group is formed than term wise group would be intimated

to get trained than after successfully accomplishment of training they would be granted loan

also provided a set of handloom then they venture to rise their production but there is twist

here the selected group which term yet to come for training has been provided loan and they

have started gathering stock also they are intimated by the ORMAS and ADT Boudh to

exhibit their product in fair/exhibition.

• Apart of all these the most saddest thing marked, ORMAS has formed groups in many a

village, each group accommodates 10-15 persons, then they are invited for taking training in

Tamilnadu made loom which produces one saree in 3 days and one man can operate it but

once these machine are provided to the group member they increase the level of production

in a little time frame, two saree they can produce in a week which earlier took seven day to

form a saree. The rate of production get more faster and as such the members are

supplemented loan scheme to rotate their transaction. In these process the weavers who are

not registered and who have been weaving in their conventional method is completely

sidelined. What is the option left for them, they cannot compete with the formulated

strategies of ORMAS, and they have to maintain that speed of production, which has been

since ages. It’s straightly hampering the forcibly made livelihood system of the entire

weaver. Also its natural the more one produces the more he can gather and sell in market but

what about other weaver who have been striving for the livelihood by transacting with local

trader which so far provides them hand to mouth stuff. This need to be critically studied if

really someone has thought up to revive the livelihood situation for all weavers not the few

selected weavers.

Specialized job workers –

The Reed Fillers, Winders and the Designers

Together they form a specialized group but are also a part of the weaver's family. They perform

the pre-weaving tasks, which are not only laborious but also time consuming. They are not

specially paid for this activity.

Traders: -

The traders have been the mainstay of marketing of Sonepur Sarees. Mainly Meher caste is

involved in it. The Traders are presently an affluent class with other means of income as well.

The big ones also own large number of looms themselves i.e. 100 to 250 looms. This is an

39

“upwardly mobile class”. They have good marketing contacts, a fairly good sense of design

innovation and a self built capital base. They have directed part of their capital into up-gradation

of looms and design, and partly in sectors other than weaving. The Traders however seem to be

oblivious to the hardships of the Weavers and are largely concerned with their own survival and

growth. They also remain secretive about their designs and trading activities. Nevertheless, this

group of core actors can prove to be instrumental in bringing about capacity building of the

Weavers provided their outlook is made more holistic. For instance they do not acknowledge the

contribution of the weaver’s family, particularly the women weavers who not only weave but

also perform winding, weeding and warp joining activities. This attitude needs to be changed.

Meher’s: -

Meher’s is the largest show room of silk sarees in Bhubaneswar. This firm started in late’80s

after obtaining a Bank loan of Rs.21 lakhs and before that they worked as an agent of Orissa

Handloom Development Corporation. The founder of the firm Mr. Chaturbhuj Meher has been

awarded ‘Padmasree’ by the President of India. Sri Meher was the initiator of the silk sari, which

bears combination of Ikat as well as Bomkai designs. The firm has own producing unit with 60

looms. Till 2000A.D. the turnover reached more than Rs.10 Crores and after that because of

market slow down the turnover has slide down to Rs.6 crores last year. They are presently

working with 500 weavers in Sonepur, Bargarh, Boudh and Bolangir district of which they have

a large presence in Sonepur. About 100 small traders after being detached from the Meher’s have

started operating on their own. They are instrumental in bringing in nontraditional weavers into

the activity. They have a huge network of businessmen across the countries that also export.

They at present have got their first export order, which is yet to be completed. They are one of

the leading producers of dress material items and silk cloths etc. They are the only producer to

have fitted Jacquard to their looms and producing all the designs in those machines contrary to

the general weaving of the area.

Master Weavers (Mahajans/Sahukars):-

The Master Weavers popularly termed, as Mahajans in the local area do not weave; but supply

raw material and pay wages to the weavers. They themselves take the marketing.

The Mahajans generally supply yarn to the weavers and some basic inputs occasionally about the

colour, design and pattern based on the market trends and information that they receive from

40

their customers. There is mistrust among the cluster actors, which can be clear from the

following:

• Societies (PWCS) too follow this system, but as the weaver immediately needs the money he

submits it back to the society, only if the society is in a financially healthy condition, i.e. he

is sure that he will immediately get his wages, otherwise he sells it off to private Mahajans.

• Some weavers take the raw material from one Mahajan and sell the product to others.

• Some weavers have developed the tendency to cheat by not adopting the suitable weaving

standards i.e. lower the Reed and Pick

• Instances have also noticed when polyester warps were detected woven in place of silk warp.

Yarn Suppliers: -

The cluster has been a potential place for the Tussar Silk and that today weavers have diversified

to Mulberry silk. The availability of Mulberry Silk is very poor and that all the consumed raw

material mostly procured from Bangalore and other places. The different key yarn traders and

suppliers are as under:

• O.S.H.W.C.S.Ltd i.e. Boyanika: The apex marketing body has a system to support the

weavers and the societies with the raw materials requirements and later market their

produces. It has a yarn depot, which maintains stocks of cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk.

Both the Bangalore and the Malda silk is made available to the weavers at this depot. As this

body has not been able to maintain the payments in time to the societies and other weavers,

so as a result the activities of yarn collection and marketing of produces are on low profile.

• Bangalore Supplies: Most of the societies and the Private yarn traders have been procuring

the warp yarn from Bangalore through bank, sometimes by post, sometimes by courier

service and sometimes by transport. They communicate through phone and place their orders

to certified parties/suppliers on panel of SERIFED, a Karnataka Silk federation.

• Yarn Retailers: As such in the clusters there are no wholesale yarn traders, but there are 10

retailers doing the retail business apart from the above stated doing their retail business of

yarn supplies and also involved in the collection cum trading of finished produce.

• N.H.D.C: This is a central government undertaking under the D.C. Handlooms for the supply

of the basic raw material to the weavers of the handloom sector at the Mill gate prices

without charging any transportation charges and the other local taxes. This institute had in

the past taken up the cluster development programme and had supplemented the weaver

41

societies with some good designs and other requirements. But as on date very few weavers

take supplies through this institute as it was told the private parties are able to sell at a lesser

price than the NHDC and in terms of Quality they find the product to be inferior.

Weavers Service Center: -

This is a Govt. of India organization meant for the training and skill up gradation of weavers, and

located at Bhubaneswar. This organization has Design, weaving, Dyeing, Printing, Photography,

Library & Documentation sections for carrying out the design development, design adoption,

design dissemination, technical inputs in the form of research in looms, dyes, dyeing techniques

and in innovations in appliances and accessories used by the weavers. Most of the cluster actors

have been taking only the training at this institute and later their linkage with this organization is

found to be very poor.

Sambalpuri bashtralaya:-

Activities in the cluster started taking momentum with the involvement of Late Padmashree Dr.

Krutartha Acharya and his four associates in the cluster area during 1942 and started their

business with production on limited numbers of looms. Later he converted his business in to a

co-op. society named Sambalpuri Bastralaya registered during the year 1954 under “Bihar and

Orissa Co. op. Societies Act” and established in Bargarh town. This is the first firm in the

cluster, which took the leadership in weaving activities of cluster and stood as a milestone in its

history.To look after the interest of the industry, Office of the Assistant Director of Textiles,

Baragarh was established and started functioning from 1962. Similarly Orissa Weavers Co-

Operative Spinning Mill at Tora, a village adjacent to Baragarh started it’s functioning during

1971 and acted as a forward linkage to the industry by providing major raw material input i.e.

yarn. Marketing supports from Bastralaya, / Orissa State Handloom weavers Co-Operative

society, functioning of a production branch of Orissa State Handloom Development Corporation

at Baragarh to look after the weavers working out of the Co-Operative fold, availability of yarn

at reasonable price at the door step encouraged the activities of the Weaver Co-operative

Societies, which were the major firms and maximum in number till the mid of ‘00s which grew

up mainly during 1980-1996. Inducing production agents to Corporation branch and gradual

declining activities of OSHDC started giving birth to private entrepreneurs from early 90’s and

now a number of master weavers, traders are in the business. On the other hand gradual

reduction of Government subsidies, declining support from apex WCS, closure of Handloom

42

Development Corporation, closure of local spinning mill, abnormal increase in yarn price, and

mismanagement at the primary wcs level are the main reasons of reduction in the number of

active co-operative societies.

In the current scenario Sambalpuri Vastralaya has 55 production branch and 75-sale branch.

Production branch are established to facilitate raw material to the weaver and considered to be

the hub of collecting the finished products than these branch is responsible to hand over all the

collected materials to the head office (Sambalpuri Vastralaya positioned at Bargarh) than the

material are keenly scrutinized and send those to sale branch to display to the public. To get

enrolled in a production branch a weaver has to deposit 1025/- which is refundable when weaver

close the transaction, this is called weaver share earlier it was 410/-. In early time 10,700

weavers were enrolled under this unit, which now reduced up to 1200 weavers. The causes of

reduction in membership are low wage than private traders; the goods were rejected even if the

damages were very insignificant, the production branch are closed most of the time to transact,

no up-gradation in design, facilities and scheme are not reached to the weaver.

Textiles Committee: -

It is a statutory body under the ministry of textiles set up for promoting quality and excellence in

the Indian Textiles Industry to make it globally competitive, and to provide basic infrastructure

and guidance to support and enhance quality in the textile industry. This office has initiated the

Cluster development programme. The state Apex marketing body is presently availing the

services from the implementation of ISO-9001, QMS at their organization.

Assistant Director of Textiles & Handlooms: -

It is a state government office to assist and audit the performance of the W.C.S. in the co-

operative model set all the state and central schemes are routed through them for

implementation.

Institute of Textiles Technology:-

The institute has a community programme development cell supported by some meager amount

of grant for taking up few community programmes among the weaving cluster places. Apart

from the above the human resource would be of immense help in changing the course of the

cluster in quality, technology related issues. Apart from the community development

programmes they have taken one state level awareness programme for weavers in educating

43

them to know about the count of yarn and accessing its quality. The institute has good testing

laboratory, which has not been made to use.

Commercial Banks and Financial Institutions:-

There are three banks in the cluster and from the business point of view the SBI is regularly and

sincerely delivers the service of a bank. Loans are given under PMRY and are paid back timely.

But the worst of the fact is seen at the Bolangir Anchalik Gramya Bank/District Central Co-

Operative Bank. All the funds of the O.S.C.B were routed through the local Cooperative Bank

branch for the co-operative sector. Financial institutions like NABARD and SIDBI are located at

Bhubaneswar and they are supporting developmental activities.

Government Assistance: -

• The awareness level of the weaves about the Govt. Deptt. Is not appreciable. Less than 50 %

of weavers are aware about State Handloom office, WSC and other related offices. About 40

% of the weaver families have got health card and about 45 % of weavers family covered

under Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana.

• There are 39 cooperative society registered with Asst. Director of Textile office, Boudh. Out

of 39 only 20 are functioning (as per the ADT Boudh record). About 15% of the weavers are

covered under cooperative society.

Present Problem of the Industries/ Weavers:-

Decreasing market demands due to competitions with power looms products as well as

products of the other Handloom cluster of south

Inadequate marketing channel / mode

Lack of linkages with potential buyers.

Colour fastness due to use of inadequate dyeing process

Lack of innovations in design that are market friendly

Inadequate institutional marketing & technical support.

Non availability of adequate and timely credit facilities to the weavers

Lack of actions towards product quality up-gradations research and development

Lack of systematic raw material supply system

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CHAPTER-7

Government Policy

New textile policy (NTXP- 2000) has been framed to give direction and focus on strategic thrust

areas. Few important goals and objectives are:

• Facilitate the textile industry to attain and sustain pre-eminent global standing in the

manufacture and export of clothing.

• Equip the industry to withstand pressure of import penetration and maintain a dominant

presence in the domestic market.

• Develop a strong multi-fibre base with thrust of product up-gradation and diversification

• Sustain and strengthen the traditional knowledge, skills and capabilities of our weavers and

crafts people.

• Enrich human resource skills and capabilities, with special emphasis on those working in the

decentralized sectors of the industry; for this purpose to revitalized the institutional structure

• Make information technology (IT), an integral part of the entire value chain of textile

production and thereby facilitate the industry to achieve international standards in terms of

quality, design and marketing

• Involve and ensure the active cooperation and partnership of the state Governments,

Financial Institutions, Entrepreneurs, Farmers and Non Governmental Organizations in

fulfillments of these objectives.

Some of the Target and thrust areas are: -

• Strengthen and encourage the handloom industry to produce value-added items and assist it

to forge joint ventures to secure global markets

• Re-design and revamp, the 10th five year plan, the schemes and programs initiated in the

handloom, sericulture, handicrafts and jute sector to ensure better returns for those belonging

to the disadvantaged categories

• Facilitates the growth and strengthen HRD Institutions, particularly NIFT, on innovative

lines.

• Review and revitalized the working of the TRAs to focus research on industry needs

45

• Transform and professionals all field organization under the ministry of Textiles to enables

them to play the role of facilitators of change and growth.

Some of the programs launched during the last few years:- • Deen Dayal Hathkargha Protshan Yojana; to support and assist the total gamut of handloom

activities

• Up-gradation of textile testing laboratories; in wake of German ban on the use of certain

harmful azoic dyes in textiles, the Government has taken the initiative to up-grade or

establish modern laboratories to test quality and eco-parameters in textile dyes and

chemicals.

• Economic Research and market intelligence unit; to organize the collection and

dissemination of information for the benefit of all for effective planning and strategy to

overcome the competition in the international market.

• Nodal center for Up-Gradation of Textile Education (NCUTE): This center is engaged in

mapping the present textile education scenario at various levels of human resource

requirement, identifying the quantitative and qualitative gaps and will prepare an action plan

supported by the required software to fill these gaps based on sector wise felt needs.

• National center for textile design (NCTD): Center has been set up with the website to provide

color and trend forecasts, designs, motifs and database of different kinds of handloom

weavers, designers, exports, machine suppliers etc.

• National center for Design and product Development for handicrafts: The center caters to the

design and technology related needs of the handicrafts sectors and provide the services of

reputed national and international design experts to the small scale and cottage handicraft

industry to enable them to compete in the world market.

All the central Government and state Government sponsored Schemes exist in the cluster but

there is lack of coordination among various Govt. department. Also there are many schemes,

which are only for the weaver’s of cooperative society and not for the individual weavers.

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CHAPTER-8

Some collected information on possible model of strengthening the livelihood pattern of weaver and their handloom sector:

In a participatory way the villagers were allowed to brainstorm and release some idea of different

models. The following are some suggestion derived from weavers:

• The weaver no more interested in making society or corporation they are completely

exhausted of these systems and there is no trace of faith over it. They want there should be a

direct linkage without any middle man, the linkage should be made direct between Apex and

weaver where they procure raw material and right wage and they select member of their own

who look after the marketing aspect. They only want sufficient raw material and proper wage

if this two thing can be achieved than stock can be made and get ample option to bargain in

market.

• They want a new structure should be formed where with a unanimous decision member are

selected who will be properly taught the roles and responsibilities. They fix their trusted

person for marketing.

• As the weavers are granted loan 25000/- from bank, which they have failed to repay because

of their financial crunch of last 20 year, all the loan money is repaid in different area where

they had taken credit. They want if the loan amount would be 100000/- per each then they

can rotate the amount in handloom enterprise.

• They also suggested govt. should understand the prevailing situation of weaver and provides

200 to 300 /- per month to each loom.

• Traditional way of weaving requires the whole family to engage but one person get wage so

community suggest, every individual work should be recognized and wage structure should

be reformed accordingly.

These are some suggestion come up from weaver, the main point is the weaver only require

sufficient raw materials, proper wage and marketing their finished product if these three thing

can be taken in to consideration than there won’t be any doubt of enhancing in their livelihood

situation and also there would be a escape from the exploitation of private traders.