hand block printed textile cluster of jaipur: end of …clusterobservatory.in/report/jaipur...

HAND BLOCK PRINTED TEXTILE (HBPT) CLUSTER OF JAIPUR:END OF PROJECT REPORT

1. Executive Summary

The objective of UNIDO intervention at the HBPT cluster of Jaipur was to address the challenges of poor market linkages, underdeveloped business infrastructure, lack of credit facilities, technical weaknesses and absence of organisational skills faced by this “underachiever” handicraft cluster. The strategy for achieving the same was the cluster development methodology, that prioritised interventions as per the demand generated by the cluster actors and later stimulated demand for specialised activities, to address the challenges at the core, but not before a level of trust was created among the various stakeholders for those later activities, by the programme methodology.

Broadly it took almost a year to create a level of functional trust, that was still very fragile, to initiate the activities. Since then during the next four years activities picked up and slowly exploded to areas of prime business interest to the cluster. While UNIDO primarily financed activities related to study/survey, technical issues, etc. the cluster actors (printers and exporters) financed most of the activities related to direct business gains. Support institutions were also roped into the programme. They financed a number of activities and continue to support the cluster, though in a limited way, even after the withdrawal of UNIDO. The local institutional network was created and activated to a wave of associative behaviour in the cluster. Activities like group marketing – national and international, credit, pollution reduction, etc. are continuing after UNIDO has withdrawn from the cluster.

The programme, during its lifetime, contributed significantly by generating estimated exports worth around USD 1 million, estimated domestic sales worth USD 120,000, introduced new national and international markets to the printers and the exporters, introduced the Italian concept of mutual credit guarantee in the form of a scheme called Mutual Credit Guarantee Fund Scheme (MCGFS) through the local support institution – Small Industries Development Bank of India (SIDBI), provided micro credit worth Rs. 1,500,000 to 65 artisans through MCGFS and direct credit worth Rs. 1,255,000 for 38 artisans through other schemes, introduced a simple pollution control unit, created newly designed tools and implements for enhanced productivity and initiated a mega project – SHILPGRAM for better infrastructure and living conditions of the artisans. The cluster actors contributed 59 per cent of the total development expenditure during the period of intervention.

For the future, effort needs to continue towards strengthening of institutional framework which has started functioning from a stage of nothingness, concretise the SHILPGRAM project and dissemination of technical developments initiated by the project.

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2. Evolution, Turning Point and Current Status

The HBPT cluster of Jaipur has a 500-year-old history of printing naturally dyed hand-printed textiles. The ‘Chhipa’ community, which either belonged to Jaipur or settled here from various parts of Northern and Western India, has gracefully carried forward this traditional art form, over successive generations.

Prior to the 1950s, hand block printing was an art that also served the needs of mass consumption. Printing is a family tradition and every member contributes to the process. Social customs, natural surroundings and weather requirements guided the nature of mass consumed items (utility market), while royal choices of the Jaipur Estate led to the production of the exquisite. The production process was supported by all required infrastructure, including the social safety net of a traditional economy that ensured sales and took care of the social and economic contingencies of the printers. As an art form it was also patronised by the Royal family.

This age-old production process got disturbed with mechanization and monetisation of the village economy. The mechanised production of textiles, with outputs cheaper and remarkably similar to block-printed ones, deprived the artisans of much of the utility market. Furthermore, the availability of cheaper factory made raw materials (e.g. grey cloth, chemical colours, etc.) led to the replacement of local raw material base by inputs from factories disjoint to the local economy. Finally, monetary guarantees rapidly replaced the previous system of barter, backed by social guarantee.

In the changed scenario, the supply of raw materials became conditional to monetary resources, artisans got more distanced from final consumers (having lost their local utility market), and the social safety net got eroded. In the ensuing shake out, only a few printers emerged as successful traders or trade-cum-printers. Many were reduced to printer-job workers or marginalized to wage earners. Some left this activity all together.

The loss of confidence and declining business prospects for those artisans who continued to compete unsuccessfully with mechanised printing for the utility market, led to price war within and resulted in rapid erosion of trust within the printers’ community. Within the families, the younger generation, comparatively more literate, began to search for “clean” and more lucrative jobs.

During the same time, a specialised exporter/boutique owner community started to emerge. Their main preoccupation was to market finished products either to buyers abroad or to the high-end domestic market. The exporters would negotiate deals through importing agents in New Delhi, Jaipur or Mumbai. The high-end domestic market was targeted through boutiques in the metropolitan areas. The exporters and the boutique owners were able to recapture some of the market intelligence that was lost by the printers during the transition from local to national and international markets. However, only a few printers got linked with

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these specialized exporter/boutique owners, and got a feeling of this new age market intelligence.

Sanganer - a semi-urban locality, 10 kms. from Jaipur and Bagru - a village 35 kms. from Jaipur are the major centres of hand block printed textile around Jaipur. Around 125 units are based in the township of Sanganer and around 110 units are based in the village of Bagru. They also included around 15 large printers. Moreover, hand block printing is also being sparingly practiced in various other places nearby Jaipur, including the villages of Jahota and Kaladera. Finally, few printing units and 40 exporters (exporting substantially HBPT items) are present in the city of Jaipur. The total turnover of the cluster is estimated at Rs. 400 million (USD 8 million) per year with an estimated employment of 5,000 persons. The product range of the cluster includes furnishings, dress material, running cloth and accessories of hand block printed textile.

3. Choice of Cluster

The Jaipur cluster was selected to pilot test the UNIDO cluster development programme when applied to a typical “underachieving” handicraft cluster with declining performance but high potential. Among various aspects that prompted selection were:

i. Large export potential: Handicrafts is a key export earner of India. Thus, it was felt that experiences in making this cluster aware about and equipped to respond to potential export demand might help derive lessons for other handicraft clusters.

ii. Rural, semi-urban and urban location: The Jaipur cluster is spread over villages, township and urban localities. Thus experiences in implementation of the newly conceived cluster development programme in the Jaipur cluster were expected to give a better insight into how cluster development methodology operates in a village, township and city environments characterised by diverse social dynamics and are yet highly interlinked.

iii. Replicability: It is estimated that there are around 2000 rural and artisan based clusters in India. Some of these are hand block-printing clusters. It is estimated that there are at least 5 other concentrations of hand block printing clusters in Rajasthan and at least 25-30 similar clusters all over India. Thus the lessons learnt while implementing this programme in this cluster can be replicated in similar clusters in India.

iv. Scope for intervention in pollution related areas: The cluster offered scope for intervention in issues related to pollution and also improved living condition. These are sensitive yet important aspect of overall development. Importantly this is also a very regular phenomenon in any textile cluster in India. It was felt that the experience to be gathered in working towards a solution in this aspect in a cluster framework might be replicable elsewhere.

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4. Key Cluster Actors and their Linkages

Hand block printers are at the core of the cluster. Block makers, dyers, bleachers, washer men, calenderers, etc. provide backward linkages to the hand block printers. They are mainly settled in Sanganer and Bagru and few other villages situated within a radius of 35 kms. of Jaipur city. Exporters and large printers usually supply the ‘grey’ (i.e. raw) fabric, designs and working capital to the printers on a buy back basis. They then collect the finished goods from the printers and in turn supply the finished goods to buying agents or large traders or boutiques in metros.

Number of technical and financial institutions was present within the cluster1. These include SIDBI, NABARD, DC (HC), WSC, IICD, RIICO, banks, etc. Interaction of many of these institutes with the cluster actors was limited. Calico Printers Cooperative Society Ltd. (Calico) was the only association that existed, but was non-functional. There was no local association at Bagru. There were some prominent umbrella associations of exporters at Jaipur. But their product range was too wide and hence areas of activities of their common interest were also too general. A cluster map, depicting the relationship status among the cluster actors prior to UNIDO’s intervention appears below:

Cluster Map Prior to Intervention

1 For further description of the institutions see Diagnostic Study (Annex 1)

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Block, Cloth, Dye

Washing, Dyeing

calendering

DesignerForeign Buyer

Importers/Buying Agents

Exporters

International Fair

Upper Domestic

Lower Domestic

Boutique owners

Local Traders

Bagru(110)

DC(HC)

National Fair

Sanganer(125)

5. Major Problems

The major problems facing the cluster were as follows2:

i. Poor market linkages and knowledge of printers

Traditionally, printers were part of the local economy and produced utilities for local usage and occasionally exquisites through local royal patronage. As mechanisation made available cheaper utilities at the local level, printers started to compete against those cheaper products by compromising on quality of raw material, labour and processing technique, thus discarding their USPs3 – the traditional methodologies of production and usage of traditional raw material. None of these cost cutting measures helped. In an attempt to win a lost battle, the printers dragged themselves into a vicious cycle of decreasing price, quality and standard of living.

Meanwhile the traditional market got gradually replaced by an urban clientele and also exports market. The printer got distanced from this new range of final consumers and continued producing disjoint from the needs of the new clientele. The market intelligence, which used to get reflected in the products made for the local market (in the form of appropriate choice of colour, design preferences, weather requirements, local customs, etc.) lost all relevance for the new clientele and was not replaced naturally to suit the needs of the latter. Exposure to such markets was only occasional and restricted to few printers either registered with some developmental organisations or working as dedicated printers to few exporters. Individual moves to bridge such information gap was expensive and beyond the scope of individual printers.

ii. Limited clientele of exporters

Majority of the exclusive exporters of hand block printed textiles joined this trade only during the last two decades. These small exporters and the few large printers were catering to a limited range of clientele including Indian buying houses, large Jaipur based exporters (who used to export items other than hand block printed textiles) and occasional foreign contacts of exporters (because of their high-end origin). Thus their creativity was limited to the market intelligence received through indirect consumers only. The exporters and the large printers failed to experiment by incorporating current market intelligence into the traditional designs and ended up producing given (many times foreign) designs through block printing. These constrained their growth and through them the growth process of the cluster.

iii. Lack of working capital

Majority of the printers were facing working capital problem as they were supposed to give collateral for getting loans. This was either not available with them or were at times

2 See Diagnostic Study (Annex 1) for a detailed discussion3 USP stands for Unique Selling Proposal

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disproportionately higher than the amount of loan. For example, for getting a loan of Rs. 50,000/- a printer might have to give his house as collateral, since that was the only available collateral which he could offer. Again at times the printers had lost all linkage with the banks because of some bad debts that he had developed with the bank and thus availing of any further loan was ruled out for him. The widespread mistrust between banks and printers led to stalemate in financing working capital loan for the small printers. This acted as a barrier not only for the small printers but also for the exporters and the large printers who often had to play the additional role of financers for the small printers.

iv. Inadequate infrastructure support

Due to the absence of proper infrastructure, the printers often faced problems due to “pollution” related issues. Improper knowledge also added to this problem. Majority of the printers were found not to have any local marketing infrastructure. In view of a huge tourist clientele, this was a source of potential business. Again, the high price of land forced many printers to run the units from their houses, within limited space. This, in turn, caused health problems and sanitation hazards, which aggravated with the increase in family size. Due to the lack of appropriate drying facilities, printed clothes were left to dry on open land, reducing product quality.

v. Traditional technology

The printing process is time consuming. This creates problems for the exporters to meet the time schedule demanded by the importers. Often this led to tension between the printers and the exporters. Certain pre printing processes were also creating quality problems with end products.

vi. Lack of organization skills

A serious handicap of the printing units was the complete absence of pro-active enterprise support organizations. The couple of large exporter associations that were present in the cluster were too large to accommodate sector specific issues of HBPT exporters in-depth. Thus, there was no demonstrative knowledge regarding benefits of such organizations. Above all, the shrinking price-quality spiral was responsible for increasing mistrust leading to an end to all co-operative frameworks in the cluster.

6. Vision of the Cluster

The long-run vision for the HBPT cluster of Jaipur was therefore set as: “The Hand Block Printed Textile Cluster of Jaipur will establish itself in the international and high-end domestic market for its eco-friendliness and ethnicity of the products”. Backward linkages in the form of availability of working capital, infrastructure support, technical development and enterprising organisations will strengthen the process.

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7. Implementation Strategy

The implementation strategy was to create and guide various enterprise networks and service providers in pushing the cluster towards a growth path with the involvement of relevant support institutions. This was planned through a demand driven sequencing of activities that would continuously motivate the cluster actors into a virtuous cycle of handling increasingly critical issues. Broadly, the initiation of various types of activities took place as follows:

1997: Trust building, understanding key issues 1998: Involving support institution, experimental marketing, generic training 1999: Technical training, targeted marketing, credit 2000: Planned credit, infrastructure development, technical development 2001: Round-up the unfinished agenda

Intervention started with the printers of Sanganer. Here the point of intervention was chosen as the Calico Printers Cooperative Society Ltd. (Calico). Since no such society was available at Bagru an NGO – Indian Institute for Rural Development (IIRD) was chosen to initiate activity at Bagru. The mandate of the NGO was broadened, in later years, to also include printers of Sanganer. SIDBI, NABARD and DC(HC) were roped in as support institutions so that they could become associated with the project from the very beginning, thus broad basing the cluster dynamics. The exporters of the cluster were targeted to enhance the overall business scenario through a pull effect and also transferring market knowledge to the printers in a sustainable way. Table 1 below shows the frequency of types of activities initiated in the cluster during implementation.

Table 1: Frequency distribution of activities initiated4

Nature of activity 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 Total1. Formal trust building 18 15 2 2 4 412. Action plan 5 2 0 5 2 143. Short run activity 2 3 7 11 12 354. Medium run activity 1 7 8 4 10 305. Long run activity 0 0 4 4 3 116. Monitoring & review 0 1 1 2 1 5Total 26 28 22 28 32 136

The table clearly indicates a gradual shift from purely trust-building (which constituted the bulk of activities in 1997) to short- and medium-term activities in 2000-2001. Long-term activities as well as monitoring and review (which are essential to ensure that the right level of sustainability is being reached) were mainly concentrated in the last biennium of the intervention.

4 See Note 1 of Annex 2 for definition of activities and Annex 4 for detailed list of major activities. Many informal trust building activities that did not produce any quantifiable outcome have not been reported in the list of formal activities in Annex 3.

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8. Major Activities

The nature of activities carried out during the period of intervention can be broadly summarized as appears in table 2 below:

Table 2: Nature and Frequency of Activities

S. No.

Nature of intervention 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 Total

1 Study/survey 2 1 0 2 2 72 Formation/revival of

SHG/Association1 2 3 3 4 13

3 Training in marketing 1 2 0 0 0 34 Technical training 0 6 5 5 6 225 Marketing linkages –national 1 3 10 5 8 276 Marketing linkages –

international0 2 1 2 2 7

7 Credit and finance 0 0 4 2 4 108 Technical developments 0 0 0 2 3 59 Improved living condition 0 0 0 5 1 610 Social security 0 0 0 2 0 211 Skill up-gradation of women 0 0 1 2 0 312 Macro feedback 0 1 1 1 2 5

Total 5 17 25 31 32 110

Table 2 reinforces the key message from Table 1 indicating a gradual shift in relative importance away from institution building and capacity building (i.e. training) into market linkages and technical developments. It is also important to stress that many of such later activities (e.g. national and later international linkages) had to be thoroughly prepared by increasing the competence of cluster stakeholders (e.g. through marketing/technical training).

8.1 Exposure of Printers to High-end Domestic Market

8.1.1 Objective

The printers got de-linked from the emerging high-end domestic market and were instead trying unsuccessfully to find a place in the age-old low-end local market by reducing price and quality. Objective of this intervention was to create linkages for the printers with the high-end domestic market by demonstrating the viability of such intervention through increased turnover.

8.1.2 Steps involvedThe intervention was planned through exposure, benchmarking, training, promotion of group behaviour, testing of various “unknowns” related to this venture through pilot level group initiatives, linkages through NGOs for future interventions and providing desired follow-up supports.

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8.1.3 Implementation

Exposure, benchmarking and training was initiated through the pilot activity of “Marketing Training” of printers. 15 printers of Sanganer and 23 printers of Bagru were provided a week long joint marketing training; that included familiarisation with modern marketing tools, exposure to boutiques in Delhi and Jaipur, interaction with exporters and establishing linkages by registering with various national organisations that can continue to provide them with such exposures in the future. Most importantly the printers got the message that it is possible and profitable to strike linkages with such high-end market and this could probably be done through joint efforts, similar to the current joint marketing training and was not otherwise possible at an individual level.

Though widely discussed, the printers were not fully convinced regarding the prospects of a joint effort with competitors in a business venture. Moreover in the absence of any such previous direct high-end marketing experience, this activity needed information related to appropriate location, time, duration, product, target clientele and the means of propagation thereof, financial issues, etc. In the absence of authentic information on these issues, the decision to launch a joint programme by investing own resource was not forthcoming.

Thus, it was felt that before implementing this initiative on a true scale, it should be tested at a smaller scale to satisfy the prospective printers with respect to various unknowns, provide them an indication regarding an optimum financial package for participation and also show some direction regarding future event management.

A fair was thus organized at Jawahar Kala Kendra, Jaipur targeting high-end clientele. The ownership of the fair was given to Calico. NABARD was roped in as a support institution. All participating block-printers were charged a fee, which was in itself a significant departure from the previous tradition of subsidizing participation as the opportunity cost of wage lost. The printers got feedback regarding colour, combinations, designs, etc. Moreover, such an event provided the opportunity to introduce the cluster entrepreneurs to alternative means of fund raising (e.g. sponsorships by private parties, developmental organisations) and marketing ideas (e.g. inauguration by dignitaries, press conference, cultural shows). They also got indications regarding the choice of place, since Jawahar Kala Kendra was one of the ethnic locations at Jaipur that equated well with the target clientele.

This first fair proved successful and the printers did some good business. Based on the success they came out with suggestions on issues those were being debated prior to this fair. These included aspects like ideal duration of a fair, means of advertising, location, charges per participants, etc. They emerged more confident about the product-mix to be exhibited and they also did away with their scepticism regarding joint participation. This event thus proved a turning point for the ensuing period.

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The next targeted high end domestic marketing event was organized by Calico at Delhi5. Here support of a Delhi based NGO – UDYOGINI was taken for promotion. NABARD partially sponsored the event. The event was given press coverage and the printers were linked to various potential supporting organisations. This event was an even bigger success than the previous fair. Thereafter, the printers never looked back. The initiative of self-organised fairs was also complemented by participating in some targeted fairs organized by reputed organizations and also by mass registration of printers with DC(HC) and WSC and participating in fairs organized by them at in various metros.

The participation of printers in groups was initiated with Calico. Later printers were also linked to other NGOs like IIRD, UDYOGINI, newly created self-help groups (SHGs), etc. The printers were also provided various back-up supports too. These included technical training in designing, product creation, computers, inter-net, etc. So far as funding support is concerned, printers were linked to developmental institutions like SIDBI, DC (HC), NABARD, RCCI, etc.

5 This happened mainly because Calico got busy organizing a fair at Japan in September 1998.

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Box 1: Ramesh Mehrawdia – Substantial growth through co-operation

Ramesh Mehrawdia is 23 years old, a young man with big ambitions and dreams. A member of a family of seven, Ramesh decided to adopt his ancestral business of hand block printing at 18. He joined his father’s business initially along with continuing his studies. After graduating in commerce, this young man started feeling dissatisfied with the family business. He wanted to do something bigger and more innovative.

He felt that there were new opportunities to expand the business – which hand block printed textiles were in good demand abroad, and exporting them could mean a good business. But how was he to tap these opportunities? How could he get into exports? What were the formalities? He started to find out by himself - visiting export units, trying to obtain information. But without much results, except the realization that one of the rules of the export business is secrecy! By 1998, Ramesh had already started a small block printing unit independently from the family. He had two printing tables and employed 2 people. Turnover in 1998 was about Rs. 45,000.

The chance for growth came in 1999 when Ramesh met Mr Satyanarayan of IIRD and learned about UNIDO’s programmes for printers in Bagru. The new opportunities matched Ramesh’s ambitions and he took a keen interest. With growing awareness and assisted by Mr Satyanarayan, Ramesh participated in the marketing training programme and thereafter took a loan for Rs. 100,000 with technical support of Mr. Satya Narayan. With this capital, he increased the number of printing tables from 2 to 6, employing 4 more printers. He worked hard at developing orders from wholesalers in Jaipur and in 1999 had a turnover of about Rs. 125,000 with a profit margin of about 30-35%. Ramesh now has two major buyers in Jaipur and Mumbai, for whom he does job work.

His big dream is to be the first exporter from Bagru. With the UNIDO training programmes in marketing Ramesh could begin to see his dream coming true. He attended two programmes, went to exhibitions in Dilli Haat, and Pragati Maidan. He paid to go to the SISI course on exports: “Now I know the different stages involved in exporting printed textiles and the various documentations and procedures that are required at each stage. I feel I can start exporting now”. Exhibitions widened his horizons on marketing, new designs and consumer preferences. He has also learned about computers and joined a computer course in a private institute. He wants to buy his own computer and get his internet connection since he knows it will bring more opportunities for increasing his business. Ramesh is ready for growth. He is very confident in himself and is sure that he will accomplish all he has planned. An empowered Ramesh suggests that in future it one should pay more attention to practical experience and exposure. For example, training on using the computer and the Internet would be more effective if practical classes on operating the computers are organized.

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8.1.4 Outcome

Printers participated in around 20 specialised high-end clientele targeted fairs through joint participation. These fairs were either specially organised by the printers or they participated in certain high-end fairs organised by specialised marketing organisations – private and public. Registration of artisans to various market linking agencies also led to participation of several artisans in various fairs and exhibitions. These have resulted in additional business worth Rs 6.1 million. Printers were also introduced to seven new places. Many printers also developed linkages with boutiques in the metros and are doing regular business. Towards the later stage, the printers started to independently (that is without UNIDO support) organize events of this type, albeit in smaller groups, and also participate in similar fairs. A list of various fairs organized during the project period appears in table 3 below.

Table 3: New Fairs Organized/Participated by the Printers (1998-2000)

Printers of Venue Held during1 Sanganer Jawahar Kala Kendra, Jaipur 19982 Sanganer Dastkar, New Delhi 19993 Sanganer Jawahar Kala Kendra, Jaipur 19994 Sanganer Jawahar Kala Kendra, Jaipur 19995 Sanganer Tejpal Hall, Mumbai 19996 Sanganer Lakshmi Ladies Club, Ludhiana 19997 Sanganer Dastkar, New Delhi 20008 Sanganer India Weaves, New Delhi 20009 Sanganer Handicraft Expo, New Delhi 200010 Sanganer IITF, New Delhi 200011 Sanganer IITF, New Delhi 200112 Bagru Dastkar, New Delhi 199913 Bagru India Weaves, New Delhi 199914 Bagru Pushkar Raj, Pushkar 199915 Bagru RUDA fair, Mumbai 200016 Bagru India Weaves, New Delhi 200017 Bagru Dastkar, New Delhi 200018 Bagru & Sanganer Chinmoy Mission, New Delhi 200119 Bagru & Sanganer Gifts Fair, Udaipur 2001

8.1.5 Conclusion

Participation of groups in exhibitions is a common activity now. While exhibitions are now carried out independently in Delhi (sometimes even without the knowledge of UNIDO), at least 3 specialized fair-cum-exhibitions were organized by SHGs from Sanganer and Bagru in metros in 2001 without any support from UNIDO. . These are transition from a situation when a few printers were used to participating in fairs with TA and DA support from developmental organisations.

8.2 Marketing at International Level

8.2.1 Objective

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The new range of exporters and large printers were usually linked to the export market through buying agents or large traders. This was preventing them from reaching a broader range of direct buyers and thereby obtaining superior market intelligence. Moreover, bypassing intermediary agents could provide exporters with greater margins, which in turn could also be invested in consumer expectations. This initiative, therefore, targeted providing additional export linkage to exporters and large printers and thereby pulls the cluster by creating additional business avenues for the printers.

8.2.2 Steps involved

The steps involved included targeting of markets, technical training and participation in trade fairs – all through group approach.


The starting point for this activity was the availing of services of an international consultant who reviewed the product range of printers and exporters and expressed satisfaction with the saleability of the product in the international market. The consultant stressed the need for professionals to create collection appropriate for targeted clientele.

With these inputs, the Consortium of Textile Exporters (CoTex - a network of “like-minded” exporters created with the support of UNIDO – see box 2 below) started preparing for the Florence Fair 1998 with support of an NID designer and an Italian buyer. As a group exercise, participation in this first fair was unsuccessful: only one exporter went to Florence of the four who originally agreed to jointly participate. However, the exporter who participated met with a grand success. All his goods were sold in the first four days of the eleven-day fair. The entire experience - from planning to product development to performance were documented and shared with the exporters and the potential exporters (especially the large printers).

A couple of opinion makers made these activities possible at the implementation level. On the exporters’ front it was a technically sound exporter who took lead and was the major opinion maker in making participation possible. On the trader-cum-printer front, it was the President of the Calico Society who was the opinion maker for their participation. Technical training organised by CoTex in visual merchandising also helped the exporters in understanding the usefulness of appropriate stall decoration to attract the customers. This input was extremely useful in participating in various Delhi based international exhibitions.

A financial analysis of the events shows that in most of the occasions the exporter contributed all the participation cost. On an average ten to fifteen percent of the cost was borne by the support institutions. This is elaborated in the table below:

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Table 4: Expenditure Pattern in FairsName of Fair

Year No. of participants

Stall cost Designer cost

Travel cost

Boarding & lodging cost

Promotion material cost

Florence 1998 1 E E(25%), SI(75%)

E E SI

Florence 1999 3 E E(50%), SI(50%)

E(50%), SI(50%)

E E

Florence 2000 5 E E E E Fair Authorities

Osaka 1999 17 SI E(25%), SI(75%)

E E E

TexStyles 2000 5 E(50%), SI(50%)

E E E SI

TexStyles 2001 6 E E E E SITexStyles 2002 5 E E E E ESI=> Support Institution, E=> Exporters (the percentage figures are estimated)

Box 2: CoTex at TexStyles 2001

Six exporting units from the HBPT cluster of Jaipur felt that while preserving their overall autonomy, they could undertake collectively several initiatives to respond to the challenges and opportunities of liberalisation. The Consortium of Textile Exporters (CoTex) was thus created in 1998 to address the multiple needs of the HBPT cluster. At present CoTex have 15 members. The total turnover by the member firms is estimated at Rs 200 million.

The objective of CoTex is to provide global market linkages to its members. The consortium thus acts as a creative platform and minimises the risk of exploring new business opportunities through information dissemination & exchange of views, organization of value added workshops, joint participation in fairs, creation of improved processing techniques and addressing issues related to an improved quality of life for the cluster as a whole. The major activities of CoTex and its members during the last four years are as follows:

Organisation of workshops in the areas of internet, website, designing, visual merchandising, etc.

Creation of a common brochure Creation of linkages with NIFT, NID, SIDBI, RCCI, etc. Upgradation of marketing and technical skill through experience sharing and participation

in technical workshops. Participation in Florence fairs in Italy, SME Fair in Osaka, Tex Styles 2000, Tex Styles

2001 Improvement of working conditions of printers to enhance productivity and quality

Joint participation in Tex Styles 2001 (30th January to 2nd February) was a unique display of strength in co-operation. With a total stall size of 160 sq. mt. booked by 6 CoTex firms, it is undoubtedly one of the largest display of strength by a joint entity projecting itself in the international market. However, the journey towards such a joint participation was a long one. It started with the failure of Florence Fair 1999 and was put back to track with various

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smaller, yet economically more manageable joint activities. These gradually created a trust component that led to such joint participation.

The coming of six firms together also gave satisfaction to the international buyers with regards to the capacity and reliability of the firms. Though the products were near identical, the firms displayed their niche areas to the buyers. The firms cut down on costs through creation of common brochure, hiring of joint services for stall designing and visual merchandising and also benefited through sharing of efforts and sharing of information and expertise of more experienced members during the preparatory phase as well as during the fair.

CoTex feels that business generation through participation in fairs is an on-going process. Customers who come in contact in the fairs for the first time are prospective ones and business keeps coming mainly in the future. During this fair, members were able to procure number of enquiries and orders. It is estimated that at the CoTex stall, there were ten on the spot orders and 150-175 visitors and 25 serious enquiries, which can turn into further orders.

8.2.4 Outcome

As a result, 3 textile exporters participated in the Florence Fair 1999, 3 textile exporters participated in the Florence Fair 2000. Each time they shared the stall cost. Participation of exporters in Florence Fair never quite picked since this was retail fair and not an order booking fair. But this created a positive background for joint participation in similar events. A group of 12 large printers and 5 exporters participated in the SME Fair held in Osaka in 1998. Moreover, five to six exporters of CoTex continued to participate in the TexStyles Fair in New Delhi for the years 2000, 2001 and 2002, by creating a joint stall. They also used the services of visual merchandiser in decorating their stall. It is estimated that all these efforts led to additional exports worth Rs. 45 million for around 15 exporters. Around 24 exporters and large printers got introduced to new international market.

8.2.5 Conclusion

As for the future, it is perceived that the exporters and some of the would-be exporters will regularly participate in fairs in Delhi in groups or may be also on their own. It is also felt that the exporters through CoTex will participate in international fairs abroad.

8.3 Provision of Credit

8.3.1 Objective

The objective of this initiative was to arrange for collateral free loan for the printers and create a model for replication in other handicraft clusters.


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The process was initiated by identifying a similar methodology of providing loan to groups of firms in Italy. The model was discussed with various stakeholders: printers, bankers and a developmental agency with the potential of providing seed capital and also spreading the concept elsewhere. This was followed by creating dialogues between different stakeholders – bankers and printers, bankers and the identified development institution, printers and development institution and joint discussions among bankers, development institutions and printers. The group behaviour initiated in the cluster by engaging an NGO, was extremely useful, as the new avenue of loan provision required both presence of groups and the overall co-ordination by a monitoring organisation, both having trust with each other. The relationship established with a developmental organisation during various other joint initiatives, also proved very useful for motivating this organisation to get involved in this innovative initiative.


Officials from SIDBI and UNIDO National Experts were exposed to the idea of Mutual Credit Guarantee Fund (MCGF) as practiced in Italy during study tours organised under this programme. Experts on Italian concept of MCGF addressed them and also shared with them the operational methodology of the process. This initiated the thought process of creating a similar system on an experimental basis in the Jaipur cluster.

Mutual Credit Guarantee Fund Scheme (MCGFS) as designed for the Indian context is aimed at providing comfort to bankers and facilitate the borrowers to borrow through mutual guarantee without pledging collateral security. The scheme was conceptualized by UNIDO CDP and SIDBI based on a similar model practiced in Italy. Once the scheme was conceived and got an initial ‘in principal’ approval from SIDBI, a meeting was organized by SIDBI and UNIDO with the prospective bankers. This was followed by a meeting with the printers. The views expressed by the bankers and the printers were incorporated in the draft scheme that was circulated and feedback was taken. The modified draft Scheme was then sent to SIDBI head office by their local office for approval.

At the operational level, a local NGO, Indian Institute for Rural Development (IIRD) implemented the project. The involvement of SIDBI who ultimately came out with the Scheme (MCGFS), gave a big push to the concept at this nascent stage. The involvement of SIDBI also brightened the scope for replication of this scheme at the national level. The involvement of the local banks opened the door of further dialogue between them and the printers.

As per the Scheme, with a minimum contribution of Rs. 5000/- individually and further in the multiples of Rs. 1000/-, a group of minimum 10 or maximum 15 members can deposit their contributions in a bank. After ensuring contributions from members, SIDBI releases a matching contribution for an equal amount. These two contributions (one from the group and another from SIDBI) are clubbed together to make a corpus fund and deposited as a Fixed Deposit Receipt (FDR) with a local bank. Based on this deposit, as a liquid guarantee the

16

bank will initially finance twice6 the amount of the deposit to a group in the form of individual loans, without any collateral security.

Introducing a new scheme also needs some confidence from the viewpoint of the local agency (here IIRD), which implements this scheme at the ground level for a chosen group. This is difficult to create at a short notice. Since IIRD was already working with the printers at Bagru (near Jaipur) for over a year; here two groups of printers were tested for their sincerity and needs by IIRD on a number of occasions while organizing their joint participation in marketing training, training of trainers, trade fairs, etc. A similar group of printers at Sanganer also earned the confidence of IIRD. The printers were fully involved in choosing their peer group whom they can influence in all financial issues, especially realization of monthly installments.

8.3.4 Outcome

6 groups of printers (65 artisans) got loans worth Rs. 1.5 million from banks (June 2002). The average recovery status of the loan is around 90 percent as on December 2001. Bank of Baroda, State Bank of Bikaner and Jaipur and State Bank of India have participated as lending agencies.

The dynamics of MCGFS in the Jaipur cluster and the presence of numerous tiny shoe units in Ambur prompted UNIDO to replicate the scheme in the Ambur leather cluster also. So far, 20 units have got loan for Rs 750,000 in the Ambur cluster. The average rate of return is cent percent.

8.3.5 Conclusion

Certain issues need to be kept in mind while replicating the Scheme. These include organizing the artisans in advance to have an idea about their commitments and understanding their needs. In this process, the implementing agency should be fully involved, so that they create trust with the artisans in groups. Since no specialized agency exists at the local level for implementing this Scheme, local organizations need to be trained. These organizations also need to be supported for some time. The multiplier of ‘2’ also needs to be enhanced and this can happen as more groups are created and the top brass of the banks are sensitised.

8.4 Infrastructure Development

8.4.1 Objective

Lack of appropriate infrastructure had affected both business returns and also living conditions, the later having adverse effect on health and productivity. Objective of this

6 At Ambur (see below), the banks are financing 2.5 times the corpus amount

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intervention was to functionalise business related infrastructure and also address infrastrucural issues related to living conditions.


In a demand driven initiative, infrastructure related issues are picked up only at a later point of time when other activities have created sufficient trust of cluster actors to invest in such long-term initiatives. Moreover, as a natural instinct, firms address those issues first where returns are faster. Thus issues related to marketing infrastructure were addressed first. This was followed by activities on addressing pollution related infrastructure. Simultaneously, work was initiated towards creation of a consensus for establishing a Shilpgram for relocation of the Bagru printers in a nearby area and creating better living condition for the printers at Bagru.

In each of the three cases, steps involved included demonstration of business interest in the activity, involvement of leaders for opinion creation and selection & involvement of service providers to carry forward the process.


In each of the above initiatives, firstly, business gain aspect was demonstrated to the cluster actors. Direct business and enquiries generated at the first joint fair organised at Jaipur by the printers, rekindled the demand for reopening of the common showroom at Sanganer, that was lying non-functional for the last eight years. The successful visit of exporters and large printers to Japan, also led the printer community to think that there is sense in jointly exploring additional business linkages.

Lack of “no objection certificate (NOC)” from the Rajasthan Pollution Control Board (RPCB) has deprived the printing units from getting the status of SSI (through SSI Registration) and prevented them from availing of the various associated benefits. This issue was discussed with various concerned authorities and the necessity of getting NOC from RPCB was made clear to the firms. This was followed by creation of a database and demonstrating the cost effectiveness of various plausible solutions.

The cost benefit aspects of moving towards a Shilpgram was also demonstrated to the Bagru printers by demonstrating several incidents of en-mass closure of firms on pollution ground and the benefits of proactivity in a planned shift as against the unplanned shift which happens in many cases when it is forced upon legally. The printers also found an economic sense of benefiting due to current presence of agencies, which were providing support in such initiatives. Demonstration of business benefits was not sufficient. Involvement of leaders followed next. These leaders were already a part of the movements on each of the three issues that had

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been initiated. At this stage, they were brought to the forefront to take active role in propagating the business sense in investing in such issues to other fellow units.

Some large/medium printers who did not have any showroom facility first took lead in taking the Calico show room on rent during the initial months. The others watched and derived lessons during this period.

Again the printers were not forthcoming to invest in a newly designed pollution control unit, which does not have a past record of clearance from RPCB. Ultimately, in view of the trust created with the exporters through CoTex and an understanding of CoTex that if the printing units get clearance from RPCB, then it will become easier for them to operate in the long run, a printing-cum-exporting unit agreed to take risk and installed the unit. This lead printing unit used to derive lot of recognition from other printing units on handling technical issues.

At Bagru the printers were divided into two sections and were dominated by two leaders. A movement similar to Shilpgram was initiated in the 1980s by a group of printers. It was then vigorously disapproved by another group of printers. This time leaders of both the groups were involved after creating two associations led by the two group leaders or their confidants. Each leader spreaded the message to their fellow printers.

The service providers were from different backgrounds, depending upon their comparative advantages. For the common showroom, Calico was the service provider, as they owned the showroom. Thus they got the showroom renovated, inaugurated and laid down the rules for its usage keeping in mind the reasons for its previous closure. Prior to closure, the showroom was buying goods on cash basis and selling it. Here, most of the times the printers used to give their reject goods and thus the probability of selling were less. Since the showroom was buying on a cash basis the loss was getting accumulated and ultimately led to the closure of the showroom Thus when the showroom was restarted, the Society decided to give it on rent to a printer who can keep both his goods and the goods of other printers.

For selecting the pollution control unit, firstly alternative technologies were demonstrated to the firms through BDS providers. Later water sample was collected and tested for a few units to know the nature of pollutants. A couple of private service providers and ATIRA were independently involved in the exercise. Ultimately a new plant designed by a local service provider was selected because of its easy availability, its flexibility to understand the problems of small firms and the economy price of the product.

For the Shilpgram, a local NGO, IIRD was chosen as the service provider. IIRD was interacting with the printers of Bagru for over two years and had created enough trust with all the printers. Thus their involvement led the printers to confidently agree for such an initiative.

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Box 3: Shilpgram Project at Bagru

Finding a viable solution to address land and water scarcity in Bagru was a major issue identified by the diagnostic study. . One option identified by the cluster development agent in close consultation with the printers is to shift production base to an ethnic industrial estate. Shilpgram at Bagru is envisaged as an ethnic industrial estate producing hand block printed textiles. Shilpgram can provide all the required technical and developmental support, infrastructure, production and market-related facilities and also promote a brand image of this age-old art. It can also provide backward and forward linkages to various related activities that are linked to this handicraft, e.g. making of apparels, creation of accessories and availability of all related raw material at one place. Shilpgram can thus provide an ideal environment to improve the living conditions of the printing community.

A complex is thus envisaged with individual workstations replete with updated facilities as well as a functionally designed common facilities centre with washing and drying spaces, common effluent treatment plant, testing facility, bank documentation and communication facilities. Provisions for storage of raw material and finished goods along with sales counters and business transactions have also been planned for. While technical and financial support will be required, it is expected that all activities will be ultimately run by the private sector. As a result, a host of associations, technical and financial institutions and the printers have been involved in this activity, including the State Government, RIICO (the land providing authority), SIDBI, DC (HC), the printers and a local NGO – Indian Institute for Rural Development (IIRD).

To start with, a survey was carried out to understand the various critical parameters to enable a shift of the printers of Bagru from their existing set-up to a Shilpgram This was followed by a workshop where various possible areas of concern were discussed and debated. To address the challenges a Task Force was set up under the Chairmanship of the Secretary Industries, Government of Rajasthan and comprising of representatives from RIICO, SIDBI, IIRD, Rajasthan Pollution Control Board (RPCB), District Industries Centre, Jaipur, IIRD and representatives of artisans from Bagru. The Task Force has approved the Shilpgram project at Bagru. An Implementation Committee under the Chairmanship of Commissioner Industries, Government of Rajasthan, and with Secretarial support by IIRD has been constituted. 43 artisans deposited keenness money to the tune of Rs 320,000 for 47 plots.

It must be stressed that the idea of an industrial estate was envisaged by cluster actors also before the Cluster Development Programme. An attempt was made in this regard by one group of printers at Bagru sometimes in late eighties. Yet the idea did not take shape because of insurmountable difference of opinion within the cluster. The UNIDO project therefore spent a long period of time to generate sufficient level of trust towards a framework that could guarantee all stakeholders. This trust was earned by the local NGO-IIRD as a result of several income-generating activities it organised for the benefit of the printers. As an outcome, the printers agreed to commit their money with RIICO (the agency of the State Government which owns the land), which was in turn a precondition for public matching funds. Though the first step has been taken in the right direction under the framework of the UNIDO programme, massive initiatives and follow-up are still required to see Shipgram through.

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8.4.4 Outcome

The pioneering pollution control unit has since received clearance from the RPCB. It is reported that 11 such plants have been since installed in different printing units7. The showroom at Sanganer, which was lying non-functional for over eight years due to mis-trust, was restarted. The showroom is running successfully now for the third year (2001) and has generated additional business to the tune of Rs. 750,000 for the printers of Sanganer. The showroom needs to generate fund for contingency requirements. A movement has been initiated towards the creation of a Shilpgram. 43 artisans have shown interest and have made initial token payment for 47 plots. Once implemented, along with living conditions and pollution related issues, Shilpgram8 will also be able to handle the lack of marketing infrastructure at Bagru.

8.4.5 Conclusion

Cumulative associative behaviour creates mass for movement towards addressing infrastructure issues, which at times do not have any short run business returns. However a path of demonstrating business gains, opinion creation and especially involving the appropriate service provider are the critical issues to see such projects through, since these types of projects generally surface towards the end of intervention period.

8.5 Technological Issues

8.5.1 Objective

Printers are used to a typical set of tools and implements and production mechanism for centuries. There have been changes in tools and implements, but excepting a few cases9 it is marginal. The objective of this intervention was to create efficient implements, print area layouts and subsidiary techniques to enhance productivity and product quality.


As in any cluster related activity, understanding of business gain by the cluster actors was a prime requisite for this activity too. In the absence of understandable direct gains, the response of the cluster actors was lukewarm, barring a few lead firms who were visionary. Again finding out an authentic BDS provider to work on identified issues is also critical. Thus an agency was identified who had the potential of both identification and working towards a solution. A survey was initiated and simultaneously possible lead stakeholders were kept informed regarding the developments. Then various joint efforts were initiated with the support of lead firms (exporting units), who had both the capacity of partial investment and act as a lead unit during replication. 7 Many of these are screen-printing units, which have received threats of closure.8 See Box 3 for details9 Change from a small table where printing used to be done sitting on the floor to a large table where printing is done in a standing posture

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A special study with respect to technical aspects conducted under the framework of the programme identified various ergonomic shortcomings including shortage of printing space, shortage of drying space, improper maintenance of blocks, poor workstation planning, improper lighting and humidity conditions, lack of good printing practices all leading to lower productivity, inappropriate technology that leads to health hazards, improper washing that lower quality of end product.

However, the printers did not endorse such realization especially when it comes to partial commitment of fund and therefore any action on this front initially lacked any “local demand”. It was found that technical upgradation among printers is most often driven by exporters, who were in a better position to understand the above needs and take lead in such initiatives and it was at their instance the printers were willing to risk newer techniques and tools. The breakthrough came when the largest exporter and retail chain owner of block printed textile took interest in this initiative. The unit also agreed to bear 30 per cent of the total cost. Importantly, the interest of this unit in such a venture was not disclosed directly to the cluster development agent (CDA). Another exporter, with whom the CDA had built trust over a long period of time, introduced him to the scenario. Various other technical developments were also introduced with the support of this lead unit and CoTex, the association of exporters.

For issues related to tools and implements, a specialised division of the chosen institute carried out a detailed survey and gave a project proposal. This was followed by the establishment of an informal experts’ panel, under the leadership of the largest exporting unit and a few eminent printers and the project started after a final discussion on various technical aspects between the institute and the experts’ panel. Simultaneously, the CDA took care in ensuing that the mind-set of the consultants of the institute was continuously in tune with that of the cluster actors.

Despite all these, the project took a much longer period of time than anticipated, mostly because acceptance and assimilation of changes take time, especially if they are introduced in areas of critical importance10. The process also faced the hurdles of matching of calendars of the exporters and the Institute, which were at different geographical location. Besides the design institute being a high level organization, the cluster was hardly able to influence the speeding up of the process by the institute, which also had various other priorities like other high cost projects, teaching etc. On the other hand, the cluster entrepreneurs were at times busy with their activity and were unable to do their part of the work as decided mutually at the end of each phase of development. It appeared that developmental initiatives, which were not giving immediate returns or were not backed by assured returns by the buyers, were becoming secondary. However, introduction of this technology in the cluster on a wider

10 For a detailed description of the steps through which changes occurred in creating the new block handles and the new triangular table, see Annex 4.

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scale has the best chance of success since the best of the units has taken lead in this initiative.

As compared to this, attempts to introduce a simple technique of washing of cloth got wider acceptance and quicker results. Here also the exporters through their association – CoTex, took the lead. Moreover there was a direct outcome of this development, namely improved product quality. This was something easily understood by the exporters and they sponsored their printers in participating in various such workshops organised through private and public BDS providers.

Box 4: Enzyme Washing TechniqueProper washing is a critical part of fabric preparation. This is a matter of major concern for buyers too as improper washing creates patches, improper colours and leads to rejection. The fabric that comes from mills or handloom sector contains natural and added impurities such as starch, oil and dust. Traditionally cow/goat dung was used for scouring. Cow/goat dung contains alkali. Cow/goat dung and water used to be mixed together and the running cloth (cut in required length) is then left dipped in that paste overnight. The next day, the clothes are washed and spread on large open grounds. Before the clothes dry completely, more water is sprinkled on them and thus they are made wet again. This process of sprinkling water and drying is repeated 5-6 times a day. This procedure is carried out until the cloth becomes white and bright. Generally, as per requirement, this process taken around 3 to 6 days for completion. After this the cloth is washed with pure water.

The current demand conditions do not support such elaborate process. Since it is tedious and time consuming, soaps and other desizing chemicals have replaced the cow/goat dung in this process. The printers have, therefore shifted to a mechanism of washing the fabric by soaking it overnight in an alkali solution locally called ‘red oil’. The quantity of usage of ‘red oil’ and the time permitted are again function of the returns the printer gets. In an attempt to cut down on cost and time the printers often ended up with improper washing resulting into sub-standard products.

It was found that one established designer printer-cum boutique owner was utilising a different technology. This is a cold enzyme washing process with much better results. For the majority of the upfront printers and exporters, where proper washing can give returns, this could easily prove a useful tool. When this technique was introduced (through a workshop partially sponsored by the exporters) this was readily accepted by upfront exporters and their dedicated printers. Even many printers, who are not using this technique even now, participated in the workshop as it was of their direct business interest. Again the methodology used was the involvement of the largest exporters and the locally created exporters group (CoTex) to give an indication that this technical change means business. In fact the usage of an entrepreneur (designer-cum-boutique owner) to introduce this technique gave a clear indication that this technique is viable in the market and hence higher chances of acceptance and replication.

8.5.4 Outcome

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Blocks with newly designed modular detachable handles were developed. A triangular table was also developed. A new print layout design and instructions of good printing practices were also developed. The printers use a typical paste made of limes (dhabu paste) to create a special printing effect (dhabu pasting). The printers, had to stand long hours on lime pastes and also press it with their legs leading to severe health hazards. A dhabu pasting machine was developed to replace the traditional process of creating dhabu paste. Three different workshops were conducted on improved washing techniques. Around 50 printers participated. The exporters financed many printers.

8.5.5 Conclusion

In most underachieving clusters, and especially in handicraft ones, technological upgradation is generally not perceived as an issue of immediate priority by the cluster entrepreneurs, especially if compared with issues like product marketing or production costs. What may happen is that firms learn to live with an existing set of technology, at most marginally upgrading it in line with the demand and often with the direct financial support of the buyer. Radical changes appear usually beyond the reach of the entrepreneurs because of the lack of investible resources.

For the future it is suggested that in a cluster, technical changes should preferably be done in small steps with the support of locally based research institutions. Ideally a full cost-benefit analysis should be preliminary carried out and only changes for which there is a demand from the buyers’ side should preferably be taken up, unless there are other important social issues that point towards change even in the absence of favourable cost-benefit analysis. If a buyer can be involved in the process or his ideas can be incorporated into the process, then the process will definitely be faster and more realistic. It is also advisable to involve a fabricator, preferably at the local level from the beginning to make technology upgradation viable. Thus if a combination of a technology developer along with producer can be found such agencies should be given preference over disjoint identities of technology producer and technology developer.

8.6 Creation and Strengthening of Organisations

8.6.1 Objective

At the time of intervention there was no functional network organizing business related development works for the firms in the cluster. At some places, past attempts to create such networks had failed to succeed. In fact there was an absence of felt need for such networks. Objective of this intervention was to create networks and empower them to work for business linked developmental activities, beneficial for the members of the network.

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The steps involved included firstly demonstrating the scope and benefits of associative behaviour by organizing joint activities of groups of firms and delivering business gains to the firms. This created a demand for network creation. In those joint activities, technical and financial institutions were roped in to give the firms an idea of enhancing business gains with the involvement of those institutions. Then, interested like-minded firms were organized to create formal/informal networks. The newly created networks were then supported to deliver business gains to its members through joint activities.


At Sanganer, the printers were demonstrated the advantages and methodology of joint activity by first organizing a common marketing training programme with the support of a local chamber of commerce, which provided them a platform for the joint activity and a BDS provider, which provided them the training. This training and the associated exposure brought to the forefront various possible benefits of joint activities and the need for revival of Calico for that purpose. Calico was then revived formally and it organized various joint fairs, restarted the common showroom and initiated dialogues with local banks for sanctioning collateral free loan for the printers.

Rising needs of the printers in getting loans and linkage to high-end markets, it led to the creation of Self Help Groups (SHGs). These SHGs are groups of 10 to 15 like-minded printers. SHGs were more flexible and cohesive entities as compared to associations and could deal more effectively in business related issues. The SHGs provided its members loans through MCGFS and also organized scope for joint marketing.

At Bagru, the printers were mostly at a subsistence level and full off mistrust. They had never ever gone for any joint activity that was related to business. They had once created a single association in 1970 but that also became defunct within a month. Thus the idea of association was not in line with the thought process of the Bagru printers. In a demand driven situation (where the programme expected contribution from the printers at each and every stage), it was felt that joint activities if add to business gains can later lead to demand for formation of joint forums. Thus joint activities were initiated, not with the formation of association, but with the support of a local NGO – IIRD, which slowly started building trust with the printers (see Box 5 below for capacity building of the NGO).

The activities carried out included joint participation in fairs, joint design creation along with joint marketing, joint training, etc. The interactions that followed led to the creation of SHGs of like-minded printers. These SHGs were then used as a vehicle to launch the MCGFS scheme at Bagru. However due to the historical rivalry between two groups of firms at Bagru, creation of one local association did not take place. The Bagru printers in the end constituted themselves into two associations. In the entire process, IIRD was continuously involved and they also slowly got exposed to organizing economic activities and taking risks

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for the same in a major departure from its existing framework of health and education related activities.

The exporters were brought together by organizing various simple activities like workshops on designs, inter net, CAD, etc. and then they came under a common group – CoTex. Later they organized various joint activities related to technical training, participation in international fairs, etc.

All the networks were introduced to various technical and support organizations like SIDBI, NABARD, DC (HC), DC(Handlooms), RUDA, NID, NIFT, IICD, etc. and were demonstrated the benefits of associating with such organizations by involving a combination of select institutions in each and every activity.

Box 5: Indian Institute for Rural Development - Case study of an NGO

The services of Indian Institute for Rural Development (IIRD) were used by the CDA at the HBPT cluster of Jaipur for interacting with the block printers of village Bagru. This partnership was absolutely essential since the programme required continuous interaction with such printers as well as the creation of trust-based relationships within the printing community, which initially displayed no form of associative behaviour.

The partnership started with IIRD offering to organize a training programme on marketing at Bagru. In the process IIRD was also introduced to SIDBI for the first time. IIRD was previously doing only health and education related activities. Economic activities were new to them. The programme also enhanced risk-taking capability and proactivity of IIRD through an operational technique, wherein, though IIRD was going ahead with the programme, the total finance of the programme funding was not tied up before hand.

After the successful handling of the marketing programme, IIRD was introduced to the cluster through a detailed door-to-door survey. An 8-page questionnaire for the survey of 90 firms and its analysis gave a thorough familiarity of IIRD with the printers. This also gave them the chance of mixing with the printers. IIRD’s move towards creating SHGs paid heavy dividends in the form of its utilization later in the introduction of a new programme - MCGFS, which was implemented by IIRD

In cluster related work especially in the context of handicraft clusters, NGOs can be effectively used as an intermediary as experience has shown the HBPT cluster of Jaipur. IIRD is now dealing directly with institutions like SIDBI, Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), National Small Industries Corporation (NSIC), Department of Science and Technology (DST), etc. and also implementing various economic initiatives on industrial development. It has graduated into an NGO dealing in activities related to economic issues. In the year 1995, IIRD did 10 projects worth Rs 2 million, of which only one activity was directly related to economic development. In the year 2001, IIRD did 29 activities worth Rs 13 million. Of these 13 were directly related to economic development, though value wise it contributed to around 20 per cent of its total turnover.

Economic development as an independent activity also finds a mention in the new brochure of IIRD.8.6.4 Outcome

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Calico for the first time created an opportunity for artisans to get exposed to the high-end domestic market and also opened the door of exporting to Japan for trader-cum-printers. Calico restarted a permanent marketing outlet for the printers of Sanganer. Calico also bridged the gap between printers and local banks. Moreover, some of the activities initiated by Calico (marketing and financing) have also become quiet regularized. Full-fledged dynamics of Calico will require some more time. The SHGs of Sanganer and Bagru have created routes for giving loans to their members and also given them marketing facility. At Bagru, from a position of nothingness and negative feelings, two associations were created. They will take time to mature. CoTex has 15 members. Member firms jointly participate in fairs, organize technical workshops and in the process provide linkages to printers for growth. Many of the activities are now being carried out independently by the various networks. A list of such activities appear in the table below:

Table 5

ACTIVITY DIMENSIONS OF EFFORTS BY THE GROUP (2001)CONCEIVED FINANCIN

G BY SELFIMPLEMENTE

DUNIDO SUPPORT

IN IMPLEMENTATIO

NSHGS OF SANGANERParticipation in one handicraft fair at Delhi by 2 SHGs in 2001

Yes Yes Yes Recommendation to fair authorities

Participation of printers11 in one specialized fair of block printing at Delhi in 2001

Yes Partial Yes, partially None

Participation in one gifts fair at Hyderabad in 2002

Yes Yes Yes None

SHGs of BagruParticipation of one SHG in one exclusive fair of Bagru products at Delhi in 2001

Yes Partial Yes IIRD co-ordination

Participation by two SHGs in one gifts fair at Udaipur in 2001

Yes Yes Yes IIRD co-ordination

CalicoRunning its showroom Yes Yes Yes NoneEnhancing of loan limits by banks

Yes Yes Yes None

COTEXTraining on Visual Merchandising

Yes Partial Yes Initial linkage

Workshop on Yes Partial Yes No

11 This was through an association which was created at Sanganer by another project

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vegetable dyesParticipation in TexStyles 2002

Yes Yes Yes No

Visit to Ujjain to upgrade block printing

Yes Yes Yes Linkage by UNIDO

8.6.5 Conclusion

Strengthening of organizations is a tool that ultimately promotes the vibrancy of a cluster by enhancing associative behaviour for joint business promotion and providing linkages. The networks of Jaipur have demonstrated this phenomenon. It will take some more time for these organizations to create an inner strength to continuously address future challenges in a manner that was induced during the lifetime of the project.

9. Results

The results of UNIDO intervention may be summarized as follows:

9.1 Firm level impact indicators

1. Additional estimated exports generated: Rs. 45 million (or little less than USD 1 million) to around 15 exporting units. Introduction to new international markets (Japan and Italy) for 24 firms.

2. Additional estimated domestic sales generated worth Rs. 6.1 million (USD 120,000) for over 100 artisans through introduction of new designs, new market linkages and product diversification.

3. Artisans were introduced to 7 new places in metros for doing business and creating contact with high-end domestic market.

4. Micro Credit provided worth Rs. 1,500,000 to 65 artisans through introduction of ‘Mutual Credit Guarantee Fund Scheme’ (MCGFS) with assistance from SIDBI. Additional credit provision of Rs. 1,255,000 has been done for 38 artisans through other schemes.

5. Number of artisans provided with insurance cover increased from 250 to 750. 6. 2 printers created their showrooms at Bagru

9.2 Cluster level impact indicators

1. Technical Improvements: Developed block with detachable handles for improved storage and maintenance, development of dhabu pasting machine and triangular table

2. Infrastructure development: 43 artisans deposited booking amount for 47 plots with state infrastructure development agency (RIICO) for the creation of a Shilpagram, an ethnic industrial estate for artisans estimated at an overall cost of approximately Rs. 60 million.

3. Institution building by creation of CoTex, 2 new associations created at Bagru village, 8 Self Help Groups at Sanganer and Bagru formed and partial revival of Calico at Sanganer for a total of 125 members.

4. Started a new scheme called MCGFS.

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9.3 Sustainability Indicators

1. Developed linkages with technical institutions (NID, IICD, etc.) and with funding institutions [SIDBI, NABARD, D.C. (Handicraft), D.C. (Handloom)]. Total number of institutions that got involved increased from 1 to 16. Institutions, which got intensively involved, were SIDBI, NID, D.C. (Handicraft), D.C. (Handloom), IIRD, RIICO, IICD, etc.

2. Ratio of private sector to public sector funding in joint development initiatives undertaken was 60:40, compared to nil participation earlier.

3. Capacity building of a local NGO – IIRD and its elevation to a regional level NGO.4. SIDBI and DC (HC) are continuing with the developmental initiatives at the cluster as

made evident by the awarding of 2 marketing events by SIDBI and 2 design development programme by DC (HC).

10. Sustainability

The sustainability index of the HBPT cluster at the end of 2001 and at the beginning of 1997 are given in table 6 below:

Table 6: Sustainability IndicatorsWeight of target

in action plan (%)SCORE

(2001)Weighted

Score (2001)

SCORE

(1997)

Weighted Score (1997)

AssociationCOTEX 20 7 8.4 0 0Possible network(s) of exporters

10 0 0 0 0

CALICO 20 4 4.8 0 0Bagru Society 1 10 3 1.8 0 0Bagru Society 2 10 3 1.8 0 05 functional SHGs 12.5 6 4.5 0 03 emerging SHGs 7.5 4 1.8 0 0Other possible SHGs 10 0 0 0 0 100 23.1 0BDS Provider/Donor InstitutionsSIDBI 15 7 3.2 0 0DC (HC) 15 7 3.2 4 1.8SBI, SBBJ, BoB 10 7 2.1 0 0RIICO 15 5 2.3 0 0NID 10 5 1.5 0 0Textile Committee 5 4 0.6 0 0IIT Delhi (Textiles Division) 5 4 0.6 0 0IICD 5 6 0.9 0 0Private BDS provider for pollution

5 8 1.2 0 0

Other potential BDS providers 15 2 0.9 2 0.9

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100 15.6 2.7Brokering InstitutionIIRD (for printers of Bagru, Sanganer, other places)

40 9 3.6 0 0

COTEX (for exporters) 25 6 1.5 0 0Calico (for printers of Sanganer)

15 2 0.3 0 0

Other possible brokering institutions

20 2 0.4 2 0.4

100 5.1 0.4Total Weighted Score Year 2001: 43.8 Year 1997: 3.1As against a maximum possible score of 60, associations have scored 23.1. This is an immense improvement over the position in 1997, but they still have a long way to go. The Cluster Development Programme tried repeatedly to actively support the recruitment of network brokers through cost-sharing. However, due to the low level of prospect of earnings for such brokers and their prior exposure to much different networks, meant that none of the selected brokers devoted sufficient energy to this task. In the absence of a quality network broker, it is not surprising that the dynamics of the networks did not take off as expected. At times, there were activities of mistrust also leading to falling trust level and reverse the growth spiral.

To increase the sustainability of initiatives, the printers were organized through formation of SHGs and this process turned out to be very effective. This led to increase in formal trust building activities in the third year of the project. The SHGs did well with high trust level, joint marketing and credit & thrift provision. It appears that smaller networks are a much better option for enhancing economic activities in artisan clusters. It also induces natural competition and that enhances efficiency in operation.

Members of CoTex have proved very cautious about allowing in new members. This has somehow reduced the reach of the programme to 40 per cent of the exporters community12

only. However the sustainability index could have been bettered if a similar network like CoTex could have been formed. The low number of exporters limits the fund raising capacity of CoTex to sustain a network broker. Despite several initiatives, CoTex passed through phases of presence and absence of network broker. At present CoTex has a part time network broker.

The spending patterns in the cluster are given in charts 1 and 2 below:

12 This include exporters substantially involved in exploring HBPT products.

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Table 7 below indicates the status of linkages that existed between various institutions in the cluster before the programme intervention and the status of those linkages developed till 2002. The linkages between the institutions have been rated on a 0-5 scale, before and after the intervention (see Note 2 of Annex 3 for details).

Table 7: Institutional linkage matrixSIDB

IDC

(HC)SBI,

SBBJ, BoB

WSC NID NIFT IIT Delh

i

RIICO

Private BDS for pollutio

nB A B A B A B A B A B A B A B A B A

CoTex 0 4 X X X X X X 1 3 0 3 0 3 0 1 0 4Calico 0 3 0 3 0 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0SHGs of printers 0 5 0 5 0 5 0 5 0 3 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0IIRD 0 5 0 5 0 5 0 3 0 3 0 0 0 3 0 5 0 5UNIDO 0 5 0 5 0 0 0 0 0 3 0 2 0 3 0 2 0 0

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11. Future Directions

On an overall evaluation, the Jaipur experience speaks of successful intervention in introducing the printers and strengthening the position of exporters in the national and international market respectively and also enhance the market intelligence of the cluster. These activities have become self-sustainable. Another useful intervention has been made by introducing a new methodology of credit availability through the MCGFS that enhances the working capital availability of the printers. Issues related to pollution related infrastructure have been addressed. Long run activities like major technological changes and "Shilpgram" project have also been initiated.

Over 125 printers and 25 exporters and large printers got benefited through enhanced sales, new marketing channels and credit linkages. New networks/associations have been created. These new networks and associations need to continuously serve their members to emerge as successful entities. A local NGO – IIRD has been trained and strengthened in income generating activities and also linked to the printers. The existing commitments by SIDBI and DC (HC) to continue such initiatives through IIRD and IIRD’s own commitment to carry on with the long-term initiatives provides optimism in the continuation of a variety of initiatives introduced in the cluster.

The cluster map before and at the closure of the programme appears as Annex 5.

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Annex 1

DIAGNOSTIC STUDY OF TEXTILE HAND PRINTING CLUSTER OF JAIPUR

1. Industry Scenario at National Level

Rich Raw Material base:

Jaipur is well known internationally for its ethnic designs printed on pure cotton base with the help of natural vegetable based dyes. Cotton, the base raw material of Cotton textiles on which printing is done in Jaipur is available in plenty in India. Cotton Yarn production in India has been increasing at an average rate of 3 percent annually over the last decade. The out put of cotton yarn was about 1600 million kgs in the year 1994-95. Although man -made yarns such as polyester, nylon and viscose have shown even more rapid growth rates over the years, their quantum compared to cotton yarn is much lower. Cotton continues to be the dominant component with the share of 70 % for yarn and over 75 percent for the fibers.

Decentralised sector as the prime processor :

Of the total out put of 27,975 million metres in respect of the cotton fabrics, the share of decentralised sector for the year 1994-95 has been estimated to be 26,196 million metres constituting 93.6 % . It is only in the blended fabrics that the organized sector accounts for the lion's share in 3361 million metres of fabrics.

Powerlooms Dominant in decentralized sector :

Powerlooms have a dominant role to play in the decentralized sector as there are about 1.3 million looms in different regions with concentration in Maharashtra , Gujarat and parts of Uttar Pradesh. These looms account for over 72 % of the total production and provide employment to about 6.5 million employees. Bulk of this production is absorbed by the domestic market while exports are upto 5% of the total output. Another 22% of the total output of fabrics is accounted for by the Handlooms sector with 15.4 million weavers employed in the households and in industrial complexes.

Decentralized sector dominates textile printing as well :

The coarse grey cloth produced by the powerlooms and handlooms finds its way to the small scale sector for bleaching, dyeing and printing. These operations are carried out on the bedspreads, home furnishing fabric and other made-ups such as ready made garments that are also produced by the small sector. There are several clusters that have developed in India for the finishing operations including printing. Most of these clusters consist of small firms of printing in the unorganized sector.

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Textile hand printing, a well diversified industry:

Textile hand printing is geographically and in terms of its product range, a well diversified industry. The traditional pockets for textile handicrafts are based in the states of Uttar Pradesh, Orissa, Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat, Maharashtra and Rajasthan. Within Rajasthan, the four districts of Palli, Barmer, Jaipur and Jodhpur have emerged as major centres for hand printing of textiles. The product range on which printing is done comprises of bedspreads, running cloth for the dress material, home furnishing products and ready made garments.

Textiles generate substantial exports :

Exports in the textile sector have increased tremendously during the recent years. The total of all textile exports in 1994-95 had a value of Rs. 31,336 crores representing an increase of 25.3 % over the year 1993-94. The extent of growth under individual heads varied considerably. Handicrafts of which printed textiles are a component, grew at a rate of 33.8% during the same period with the total exports of Rs 2635 crores. The total exports of hand printed textiles was Rs 475.12 crores which grew at a rate of 34% during the same period. The cumulative average growth rate of hand printed textiles during the last five years i.e. 1992-97 has been 37 percent. The table of hand printed textile export is shown below :

Exports of Hand Printed Textiles and Scarves from IndiaYear Rs Crores % age

Inc/DecreaseDollars US$Millions

%age Inc/Decrease

1992-93 196.50 68.831993-94 354.25 +80 112.95 +641994-95 475.12 +34 151.43 +341995-96 580.45 +22 175.8 +161996-97 695.17 +20 204.46* +16Cumulative Average (p.a.) 37 31.3*calculated at Rs 34 per US $

Destination of Hand Block Printed Textile Exports from India :

USA is the most important export destination for Indian Hand Printed Textiles with a share of almost 32 percent in the total exports of Rs 580 crores in 1995-96. The other important destinations are United Kingdom and Germany with a share of 13.5 percent and with 11 percent respectively. A table reflecting the destination for hand printed textiles is given below:

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Destination of Hand Printed textile exportsCountry 1991-92

Rs Crores1992-93Rs Crores

1993-94Rs Crores

1994-95Rs Crores

1995-96Rs Crores

U.S.A 67.00 68.11 144.35 168.13 185.35U.K 12.90 19.65 36.18 65.12 78.70Germany 13.32 23.51 46.45 60.30 65.50Canada 12.91 15.84 29.89 45.32 46.15Japan 6.79 9.41 12.11 15.75 25.05France 2.66 5.19 9.82 16.83 20.6Italy 2.05 4.08 7.62 14.10 15.40Australia 4.38 5.69 8.10 10.70 12.20S-Arabia 4.99 6.15 8.70 11.42 12.18Netherlands 3.17 3.81 5.20 7.28 10.55Switzerland 1.05 1.65 2.80 4.76 5.08Others 18.59 23.41 43.03 55.41 103.69Total 149.81 196.50 354.25 475.12 580.45

Positive future scenario:

The contribution and growth of textile industry in general and printing in specific is aided by the strong policy thrust towards handloom and powerloom sector. Certain kind of products have infact been reserved for manufacturing in the small scale sector. With the government policy continuing to be in favor of the decentralized sector in this industry, the future of this sector continues to remain bright. Secondly, with the lower economies of scale and cheap labor, the decentralized sector is likely to continue to dominate in this industry. Ethnic designs for printing particularly with ecofriendly vegetable dyes have been in vogue in the western countries. The demand for such products is likely to continue rising in future as well.

2. Landmark History and Performance of the Textile Printing Cluster

Five centuries old history :

Textile printing finds its early existence in the Seventeenth century in India. However, some findings suggest that colorful printing of fabrics existed in Rajasthan even during the Fourteenth and Fifteenth centuries. It is believed that colorful printed fabric was then exported to European and African countries. Among the various places known for the industry in the states of Rajasthan, Gujarat and Uttar Pradesh are the villages and towns of Pali, Sanganer, Bagru, Jodhpur, Ahmedabad, Jetpur and Pilakhua. The two locations in district Jaipur of Rajasthan, viz. Sanganer and Bagru have been quite famous for the traditional Rajasthani style of printing.13

13 The Bagru Print

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Traditional printing styles are many :

There are several modes of printing that can be seen in Rajasthan. They are hand block printing, printing ‘dabu’ (resist printing ) and 'chhint' (sprinkling of colour) printing. However the more famous among them is the hand block printing and has become generic word for all types of traditional printing styles. According to the kind of printing, the printer artisans, called 'chhipas’' (both Hindus and Muslims) were classified as 'rangrez’ (ordinary dyer who dyed in colours) and 'nilgar’ (dyer who dyed in indigo). The type of fabric printed included 'chaddar' (bed-sheets), 'safas' (head gears), 'pagris' (turbans) and 'ghaghras' (skirts). These printers have a strong affiliation to their respective deities. The printers from the village Bagru have an affiliation to 'Baba Namdev’14

Export potential of the Industry:

About 30 years ago this industry was mainly catering to the Domestic market. From last two decades the export of hand printed textile has picked up with the worldwide appreciation for ethnic designs and ecofriendly dyes. hand printed textile Industry of Jaipur enjoys a share of almost 15 percent with an export of Rs 100 crores in the Rs 690 crores national export market. The major destination from Jaipur are USA, UK, Japan, Italy, France, Australia and Canada.

Climate ideally suited for the cluster :

Among the two major centres of district Jaipur, Sanganer is situated at a distance of 15 kilometres south of Jaipur. It has remained a centre of historical prominence for dyeing and printing. Bagru is situated at a distance of 30 kilometers and have its own place in Hand Block Printing and ecofriendly vegetable dyes. This industry is influenced by the natural environment around such as level of water availability, sun shine duration, atmospheric humidity and the local herbs and flowers. As water had always been available in abundance here, washing of fabrics has formed the basis of dyeing and printing at Sanganer.

Family based business :

There are about 150 Chhipa families each engaged in traditional printing at Bagru and Sanganer. The industry continues to be based around the families. All the members of family find themselves engaged in their respective units in one way or the other. Traditional printing industry finds its basis mainly in hand-block printing. Bagru, in historic times, had a rivulet flowing nearby which proved to be an easy source of water for the printing industry here. Through interviews it was brought out that with special characteristics, that it had, the river water gave a remarkable shine to the fabrics treated in it. The rivulet either got dried or else changed its course. Similarly, Sanganer had a stream flowing through it as well, with washing areas built adjoining it, but this has also dried due to growing pressure of the rising population in the adjoining city of Jaipur.

14 Baba Namdev is a deity revered by most chippa

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Sanganer and Bagru enjoyed their distinctions :

Printing at the villages of Sanganer and Bagru in district Jaipur have their unique characteristics of their own. Sanganer printing is done mainly on white ground where as Bagru printing demands a dyed base (indigo, red blue or yellow colored ground). Again, there exists a special type of print (based on the use of two colours - red and black only) which is famous as 'Bagru Print'.

Inherited skills :

The skill of artisans is mainly inherited from their forefathers. Formally trained persons, who might have picked up the skills in printing industry through classroom instructions, did not come to be spotted anywhere in the field by the present researchers. The `Chhipa’ women contribute to production from their households. They are masters in preparing dyes, with a sharp colour sense. They partake in other activities with equal adeptness although mainly in the traditional printing.

Traditional processes are highly laborious :

It is usually reja (course cloth) which is prepared in Rajasthan and used for printing. The printing was then done with the help of wooden hand blocks of the size upto 6"X 6. The base of hand block was engraved manually to provide various shapes and designs. The printer then used the block and the natural dye prepared for this purpose to stamp the impression on the cloth one after the other for printing. However preparing the cloth ready for printing took rounds of washing and drying manually which was very time consuming and would often run into a few weeks. Preparation of natural dyes also took days of soaking flowers, leaves, cereals and metal strips.

Mechanized ways of processing developed :

Elsewhere in the country, printing of fabric is being done by bleaching the grey fabric with the help of chemicals and dyeing got done with the help of electrically powered machines that run the large lengths of cloth on rotating winch in large metallic tanks. In Sanganer, screen printing came into being during the early 1960's. Drying continued to be done in the open under the sun, while pressing the fabric for removal of wrinkles was done with the help of calendering machines. But none of these new ways were then considered to be natural to be adopted by the traditional printing industry.

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Chemical and synthetic dyes were adopted :

Instead of using the natural dyes that had to be prepared before using them, increased number of fast and luminous chemical dyes came to be easily available. While some of the colours that are not possible to produce by natural means, have been produced through the synthetic dyes, yet the base colours are still prepared in the traditional manner. These dyes have thus come to be associated not only for their convenience of use, diversity of colours and current mechanical processes of weaving, dyeing and printing all have led to significant changes in the industry.

Screen Printing led to mass production :

It has now led to new ways of printing with the help of screens (sort of printing stencils), although manually operated, yet are capable of large scale printing, several times faster than the hand block printing. It was estimated that on two tables it is possible to print 100 meters length per day. This has led to reduction in the cost of printing with the same designs. The change in the lives of printers has not only come from changes in technology related to printing per-se but also due to new chemical dyes. This type of printing has emerged only during the last one and a half decades.

Mass production relegates the traditional printing :

The traditional printing by Dabu and Chhint have not been able to cope with the pressures of the demand which grew rapidly during the decade of 1990s. These pressures led to the emergence of growth in screen printing industry which was able to handle large volumes in a short period of time. The current scenario demonstrates that almost four fifth of the total printing is being done on the screens with the same traditional designs which Sanganer and Bagru are famous for. This is despite the fact that the number of units and the employment generated among the two sub-sectors of screen and hand block printing are almost equal.

Traditional printers facing an identity crisis :

The cultural environment of Rajasthan, the colours associated with the people’s traditional costumes and the designs related to the diversity of their local customs, behavior and broadly to the caste system then, all led the society to observe distinctions. However, these distinctions have over the last several decades gone into oblivion. The colors of the costumes chosen in Rajasthan itself no longer reveal the identity and social status of the consumer now. With the loss of traditional market and lack of readiness to meet the requirements of the market that values the ethnic tastes, the new generation of traditional printers seems to be at a loss.

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Migrants have taken up mainly to screen printing industry :

The 'Khatris’ form a big group who are engaged in screen printing industry at Sanganer. The Khatris migrated from Pakistan (i.e. Mirpur, Sind) during partition of the country in the year 1947. They too had a long printing tradition in Mirpur before partition. They are settled mainly in Sanganer and not in village Bagru. One of such locations in Sanganer has known to be called as ‘Khatri Nagar’. Trading activity, which is dominated by the local trader community has continued to remain so. Only a few of the printer community have set up showrooms of their own and stepped into trading and in export business directly.

Emergence of rivalry :

The traditional printing has two distinctive characteristics viz. traditional designs and usage of natural dyes. While the screen printers have been able to piggy back on the reputation of the industry by picking up the same designs, the usage of vegetable dyes has been done away with in favor of synthetic chemical dyes. This have generated a feeling of ill-will equally among the torch bearers of the traditional industry. The lower cost of screen printing has put tremendous pressures on the profit structure and wages of the traditional hand block printers. With most of the consumers, both the domestic and export markets unable to figure out the distinction of eco-friendly dyes and chemical dyes’ usage, the traditional industry is under severe pressure.

Community factor adds to the problems :

The traditional sub sector is dominated by the original settlers from the pre partition days of India. On the other hand most of the screen printers are the migrants from Mirpur village of Sind in Pakistan. During the last one and half decades the size and numbers of hand block printers has remained stagnated while the growth of screen printers has increased multi-fold. To cater to the demand of local mass market, the industry has largely resorted to cost cutting. Certain special types of fabrics were woven in the old times such as Kota-Doria, were quite expensive due to their exclusivity but with the focus on mass market, this has also been marginalised.

Unethical practices complicate the matters :

The accusations by the traditional printing industry representatives that the screen printed fabrics are sold off as block printed ones are known well in the industry. The coarse cloth is sometimes sold in the name of Kota-doria, an expensive exclusive variety. Similarly, the synthetic dye based printed fabric is marketed as natural dye based printing. While this seems to be true in several cases, the cause of accusations also seems to be since the business of traditional industry has been seriously affected and reputation of the ethnic and exclusivity of the cluster tarnished. Some of the export consignments have also seemed to have been rejected adversely affecting both the segments of the industry.

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Recent history mired with stagnated performance :

The recent history of printing had a rough progression. Prior to the devastating flood of 1981 in this area, the industry had been doing quite well. Hand block and Screen printing both suffered badly during the floods. During 1981-85, the industry showed a little recovery, but experienced a boom in the 10 years that followed, with screen printers gaining the most. But with their tarnished reputation due to the use of synthetic dyes while claiming to use vegetable dyes and little innovation, signs of stagnation are felt in the industry at present.

Ethnic exclusivity is gaining a chance :

It is once again that the traditional industry is gaining a fresh appreciation. But while the demand for eco friendly dyed products is gaining momentum, the traditional printers continue to perform as job workers for the trader and exporter community. The printer community in general and traditional printers in specific, without a good educational background continue to struggle finding a direction for themselves. It is understood that 5-6 exporters have set up their computer facilities to create new designs in house which may then be appreciated abroad.

Domestic and international competition increasing :

For the export market, domestic and international competition has increased. Meerut, a town in Uttar Pradesh has become known for superior quality of printing and higher productivity for bed spreads. The printing work on dress material (Saris printing) has been said to have shifted to Jodhpur in Rajasthan. At the international level, competition from other neighboring countries such as Bangladesh, Pakistan and China has affected the export prospects.

3. Sketch of the SMEs, other Enterprises and Institutions

General industry Structure of Jaipur :

The city of Jaipur, called the Pink city of India is quite famous for its tourist inflow especially from abroad. In terms of its industrial performance, the place does not find prominence on the industrial map of India. Jaipur has been known by the tourists for traditional handicrafts, ethnic printed fabrics, artificial gems and cotton quilts. The city being the capital of Rajasthan has some good infrastructure to offer for modern range of industrial units such as electronics and food processing.

Industry structure of textile printing:

It is estimated that there are as many as 960 units in this industry, each one employing on an average 10 persons, which leads to a direct employment of almost 9,000 persons. Besides, in the related business ventures and the trading activities it is estimated that another 5,000 persons should be dependent for their livelihood. The village of Bagru, houses only traditional

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hand block printing units. A classification of these units according to the geographical area in Jaipur district is given as under in the table:

Geographical Distribution of the Printing Industry

PLACE Type of Printing Units Total no. of units

Traditional (a) Screen (b) Total (a) + (b)

Sanganer block 350 350 700

Bagru village 150 0 150

Jaipur city 30 80 110

Total 530 430 960

Local market seems to be the only common link :

The nature of business operations in the screen printing and block printing differs completely. Therefore, the type of support enterprises and institutions related to the two subsectors are also different. Probably the only common link is the local shopkeeper who procures the product from both the sub-sectors. This link however is very important since he not only buys the produce but also provides the grey fabric for printing. Most of the units in both the sub-sectors do not buy the fabric on their own but depend upon the trader to provide it to them.

Designs are a relatively small factor in the mass market :

The designs for printing are supplied either by the fabric supplier or the printer himself, although it is the printer who usually stocks the designs with him. When the job order is given by the trader, it is printer who is mainly given the flexibility to choose from a large collection of available common range of designs. The cost of making blocks or screens is included in the processing and printing cost, unless a specific new design is ordered for by the trader.

Sketch of support institutions :

(I) Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) : The prime objective of the Council is promoting and regulating the growth of readymade garments from India and to project India’s image as reliable supplier of high quality readymade garments and services. The local office of the AEPC runs a training & design centre for ready-made garments. They under took a number of activities for export promotion like participation in national and international fairs, buyer seller meets, trade delegations, seminars & workshops and publications etc.

(ii) Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts (EPCH) : This council is sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. The local office of this council helps the craft persons for the exports of their handicrafts. They also provide various support services for export promotion of the handicraft like participation in trade fairs and buyer seller meets etc.

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(iii) The Cotton Textile Export Promotion Council (Texprocil) : This council works for the promotion and development of cotton fabric exports. The local office of this council provides various support services for the export of hand printed cotton textile.

(iv) India Trade Promotion Organisation (ITPO) : With the head office in Delhi this organisation is the nodal agency to develop and promote exports. They also assist in upgradation of technology through the participation of fairs held in India and abroad, undertake publicity through the print and electronic media. The ITPO has been running a trade information centre which is engaged in procuring, processing and disseminating trade information on all aspects of international trade.

(v) Textiles Committee : This committee is set up under the ministry of Textile, Govt. of India as a reliable third party Test House as envisaged in ISO-9000-Series. The local office of Textiles Committee at Jaipur provides services for most of the testing requirements of hand printed textile products. This office is also in the process of establishing an eco-friendly test laboratory at Jaipur.

(vi) Handloom and Handicraft Export Promotion Corporation (HHEPC), a government ody provides and promotes new designs for the printers. Besides, the institution organizes promotion of handicrafts through participation of the artisans in national and international trade fairs.

(vii) State and central government emporia : These emporia buy the printed fabric from the industry although the share of their purchase compared to production may not be beyond 10%. The institutions that are involved in procurement are the state government emporia called 'Rajasthali ' and from the central government, it is the 'Central cottage and handicrafts emporium'.

Sketch of support enterprises and institutions related to traditional printing :

Most of the block printing units are situated either within the residential premises of the printers or in other residential premises nearby, both in the villages of Bagru and Sanganer. The unit size within the industry and the organizational capabilities of these units vary considerably. In the village of Bagru, it is estimated that while 10 out of the 150 units take direct orders from the local fabric suppliers or exporters, rest of them work as sub-contractors to these 10 units.

The type of other support enterprises and institutions related to the traditional printing industry are given as under;

(i) Block Engravers : Within the industry, the role of wooden block manufacturers has assumed special significance since there are about 50 wooden block engravers supplying these blocks directly to the printing units. These block engravers usually hail from Farrukhabad in Uttar Pradesh. These Muslim engravers are considered to be faster and more skillful than the local engravers.

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(ii) Washermen : Washing of the fabric at the beginning of the printing cycle and during the process is traditionally carried out by the washermen called "Dhobis". The village has community washing areas called the "Ghats". Due to the increasing scarcity of water in the community, the washer-men have to go to the agricultural fields of the local farmers where the water from tube-wells for irrigation is used to wash and the drained water is then used for irrigation purposes.

(iii) Bleachers, Dyers and Calenderers : Similarly for bleaching, dyeing and calendering there are a few units that have come up in the villages. However, in most cases the printers, especially the smaller ones undertake these operations themselves. Sub-contracting for such operations is carried out only when the printers can afford or if there is an urgent order to be executed and time becomes a constraint. Estimates from the discussions held with the industry reflect that almost half of such work is sub-contracted.

(iv) Chhipa Samaj : The printer communities are socially inter-related with each other revering the same deity. Further, family relationships are quite common because of the branching out of the same families over the last few generations, all of them yet remaining in the same business. The printers interact with each other quite often under the community umbrella called ' Chhipa Samaj '. Besides there is also social inter-relationship among the printers from Bagru, Sanganer and their adjoining villages.

Sketch of support enterprises and institutions related to screen printing :

The screen printing firms are set up either in the bigger residential premises or area earmarked as agricultural land. Only a few units are believed to be set up in the industrial estate set up by the state government. This is mainly because the units do not get the industrial plots and sheds without complying to the standards stipulated for pollution control. In terms of marketing relationship these enterprises are also dependent upon mainly the local traders, who supply the grey fabric. There are only a few isolated examples of such printers who have either directly exported or set-up a local marketing outlet.

Nature and structure of industry enforces subcontracting relationship :

To organize bleaching, dyeing and calendering from other units is the responsibility of the printer. Secondly, since many of the printing units are set-up in small unauthorized plots, they have limited space to carry out all the operations thus enforcing subcontracting relationship. Thirdly, it helps to avoid the problems related to effluent discharge which are more severe in case of bleaching and dyeing. So the basic support enterprises are;

(i) Bleaching units.(ii) Bleaching and dyeing units.(iii) Calendering units.

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(iv) Designers : The sketch is usually produced by the specialist designers who come from the state of Gujarat. The first sketch of the design which is made on drawing sheet is then traced by a tracer according to the number of colors required. Subsequently the designer with the help of the tracing sheets, chemicals and the terene cloth based screen prepares the final screen. There are such several screen makers in Sanganer, estimated to be twenty in number who are called 'Designers'. Depending upon the experience in the industry the designer may also undertake to prepare the sketch and modify the existing designs as per the requirement of the printer.

(v) Masons : The basic infrastructure required for printing comprises of work tables which are made of concrete and bricks, prepared by the local masons.

(vi) Synthetic dyes and other material suppliers : The dyes which are used for actual printing are available in plenty because of the shops located in the region. Besides, the dye manufacturing units also send their sales representatives on a regular basis to visit the printing units. Acids, nitrites and urea, used for fixing the colors are also available from the local market.

(vii) Sanganer Rangai Chhapai Association : The printers, bleachers and dyers have formed their associations called 'Sanganer Rangai Chhapai Association' which undertakes certain activities to lobby with the government and to organize some training workshops. The association strives to get the agricultural land where these units are based, converted into industrial land in official records. Another important objective of the association is to fight the common legal battle against the state Pollution Control Board to avoid the closure of these units.

4. Analysis Of Business Operation

a. Products and their markets

Screen Printed Products and their Distinction

The emergence of screen printing was mainly because of large quantity demanded by the market that Block printers due to their slow process were unable to produce. Those who like bright colors and are more price conscious are the customers of screen printed products. The range of screen printed items include mainly bed sheets, furnishing items and garments. The other products are running cloth and quilt covers. The distinctions of the screen printed products are the large variety of bright colors, low cost and uniformity. Being a cost effective way of production, screen has comparative edge to cater to the mass market which is yet to be exploited fully.

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Block Printed Products and their distinction:

Traditional block printed products are known by their ethnic appeal and ecofriendly vegetable dyes, appreciated worldwide by the domestic and international buyers. The range of products that are printed comprise of bed spreads, made ups and ready made garments. However, among these, printing of bed spreads remains the main stay business of the printers. The connoisseurs however value the hard work that goes into block printing and the preparation of natural dyes, that makes it eco friendly. The affluent segment of population in India and several people in the western countries and in Japan appreciate the distinction and thus are willing to pay more for the product. This is despite the fact that the designs of the two kinds may seem to be quite similar.

Designs an important factor for high end market:

Buyers from high end market though the ethnic designs explore and savour the culture and heritage depicted thereon with ecofriendly vegetable dyes. Demand of hand block printed textile in fashion garments is also picking up. Buyer from this segment demands exclusive designs that may be custom made as per the buyers’ requirements. However the buyers’ expectations are not fully met by the industry.

Buyers from Middle end segment of the market:

The buyers from this segment consist of mass middle market and to some extent foreign markets. The buyers from this segment are mainly price conscious and like the Sanganeri/Bagru prints the buyers of utility products are more or less satisfied with this industry.

Designs of little consideration for Middle Income market :

During the discussions with a few dealers in the market, it became clear that designs and the variety of printing was not the major consideration with the domestic mass middle class consumers as also with the sellers. With price being the most important factor, volumes were obtained from the units of screen printing. The so called new designs are new combinations of the old patterns and designs with shapes of flowers, leaves and animals. So, when a government body called HHEPC (Handloom and Handicraft Export Promotion Corporation) provides new designs to the printers in their villages at their door step at a nominal price of Rs. 15/- to 25/- each for traditional designs, the takers are few.

Quality suffers with the Mass Market :

Reacting to the domestic consumer needs, the screen printers are better placed to cater to the needs of a large segment of population. They print on the lower to medium quality fabric and print it bright with the help of synthetic dyes which are brighter than the natural dyes. The cost

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of printing with the help of screen is lower by at least 50% as compared to hand block printing keeping the important parameters same such as the number of colors used.

Markets and their distribution channels :

There are two types of markets viz. Domestic and Export. In the domestic and export markets, the traders based in the local market of Jaipur and in Delhi market the product. The printer does the job work on the fabric supplied to him and arranges for the processing and printing. An estimated 10 percent of only the traditionally printed fabric is marketed through the state and central government emporia. However the emporia do not supply the grey fabric and the investment towards this has to be made by the printer himself. Secondly the procurement schedule of these institutions is irregular. The distribution channel which connects the production channels to the market are different for different buyers whom wecan define in three broad categories of Domestic Buyer, foreign buyer and foreign tourist buyer.

Most Printers find marketing beyond their means :

Most of the printers when asked whether they wanted to undertake marketing themselves, refused. The reasons cited are lack of resources to invest in the grey fabric. Secondly, in order to sell the product, he would also need to invest in the retail outlet, stocking the product range and providing credit for the sold items. With little help available from the financial institutions and the banks, such a feasibility is remote.

b. Industrial Space

Industry based on unauthorized land :

At Sanganer, the new comers (the Khatris) set up their units wherever a piece of land was available - a phenomenon that comes to be noticed even today. The result is, that the Sanganer printing industry came to be dubbed as the one that stays on, at the land classified as `agricultural land’ in the official records of the government. Laid down upon agricultural land, the industry is put to face a lot of difficulties. The units are not accepted for being registered as industrial units by the State Govt. As a result, most of them have not found favor with banks for various facilities, including grant of loans. Permanent electricity connections are denied and temporary electric connections could be three times costlier. With no roads and sewage facilities, there is virtually no development of civic facilities in and around their settlements.

That leads to several problems :

The banks and financial institutions have assumed a very limited role to play. This is because most of the units have not been registered by the district industries centres, a pre requisite usually felt necessary by the lending institutions to lend the money. Several moves to get the registration done by the authorities have not met with any success. The major reason for the

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denial of registration facility to these units is that Pollution Control Board has denied the issuance of 'No Objection Certificate' which is a prerequisite for the registration itself.

Associations are weak :

Further, since the units are not strongly united with each other through their association, lobbying itself is quite weak. The screen printers association and the 'Samaj' belonging to traditional printers as it exists currently, do not co-ordinate their efforts nor repose any confidence in most of their members. The type of services provided in terms of their range and quality do not seem to have any impact on the industry so far. The 'Samaj' in Bagru remains a social platform for the social functions and ceremonies.

c. Entrepreneurial Background, Labor and Training

Poor education background :

Most of the entrepreneurs in this field are not well educated. A few who have been to schools, and have had good exposure to the export markets have earned national awards for the skills displayed and capitalized upon it rich through display in exhibitions and trade fairs etc. This is however limited to the traditional hand block printers only. The link between the consumer and the printers in the village is quite weak. The frustration of not being able to do some thing to alleviate their problems shows up on the faces of entrepreneurs, especially the traditional printers.

Younger generation facing identity crisis :

The younger generation which is comparatively well educated, does not get good jobs and the education is not practical enough and therefore does not help them to seek better business avenues. So they have also remained struck to the same business despite their not being quite contented with it. Screen printing business, although growing, is not only unreliable due to pollution control regulations and land un-authorisation but also constrained due to other problems such as financial, infrastructural etc.

Financial constraints and dependence on traders :

Financial constraints induce dependence due to the scarcity of financial resources with the printers. They depend upon the traders to supply them the grey fabric. The problem is compounded by the fact that in case of traditional printing, the processing cycle varies between 2-6 weeks depending upon the weather conditions and internal business exigencies. After the printing is done and the goods delivered to the cloth supplier, it takes another two to six weeks to recover their processing charges. This provision of credit on the processing billing is extended by all the actors in the chain such as bleachers, dyers, washers and designers. The cost of printing in the finished product varies between 15 to 20 % of the total cost including that of the grey fabric.

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Contract labor helps escape labor laws :

The workers are employed on piece rate basis. This helps the entrepreneurs avoid the arduous labor laws. Both, the skilled and the un-skilled labor is available in and around the places of industry. Only the colour master, the accounts clerk and the helper (peon/chowkidar) are employed on a regular basis. For exports, the exact shade as per the contractual agreement is a must and it is here that the judgment of the colour master becomes crucial. The processing charges paid to the labor for printing are quite low and a worker can earn between Rs. 1500 to 2000/- per month. The earnings of women workers are still lower. The labor is unorganized migrants from Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. Without the basic training, the quality of output suffers, some entrepreneurs noted.

d. Production Systems in traditional printing

Traditional printing is a processing art :

It is the block printing which displays extensive variety of `butas’ (leaves and flowers). The dyes for block printing are mainly obtained from herbs, roots, flowers, local minerals and iron pieces. In 'dabu' printing, coating is initially done on the fabric with material that comprises of largely wax, clay and raisins. The preparations are all made by the printers themselves. Thereafter the cloth is dyed. The coating applied on the fabric in the form of a design does not allow the dyed colour to spread on the coated surface. The processing involved is an art developed with experience. Some of the new substances which are being put to use for the purpose include madder, kesula flower, bark of the babool tree, rattan jot, blue vitriol, heerakashish, red vitriol and alum. However such experiments are limited now.

Block making is an integral component :

The blocks used in hand-printing are engraved with designs by carpenter lathe-men popularly called as Block makers. The type of wood used is 'gurjan’, `sheesham’, `rohira’ or 'teak' all available in the local market. The engraving required for the design is about half an inch deep. The size of the blocks used to be small earlier in the range of 2"X2" to 4"X4". The ones of the size of 6" X 6" are common in use currently. These blocks are stamped on the cloth with one hand. Each one of the blocks costs somewhere between Rs.100/- and Rs.200/-. However with the pressures of cost reduction, blocks upto the size of 12" X 12" are becoming popular with printers and are normally stamped with both hands together to ensure the sharp impression on the cloth.

Base dyes are made in-house :

The printing dyes are made either from the herbs or minerals by the traditional printers. The vegetable dyes are made from red soil, jaggery, various parts of pomegranate, a spice called `harda’, iron filings and horse-shoes. Some flowers are also used. The red dye is developed from red soil (geru). The black dye is made through a long drawn process. In it, the iron-filings,

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horse shoes and jaggery are placed in a jar of water and kept there for a fortnight. The extract becomes the black dye. When this very extract is applied on cloth in combination with 'harda’, it produces a yellow tint.

Synthetic dyes are also finding use :

The types of base colors that can be produced with the help of natural items are limited. In order to meet the market demands to expand the range of colors, synthetic colors are being put into use although in a limited way.

Dabu printing, a speciality, has a long processing cycle :

The cloth which is to be printed is soaked in cold water on the preceding night. Cow dung is then mixed in this water proportionate to the length of the cloth. On the next day morning, this cloth is thoroughly washed with action repeated after another two days. Thereafter the cloth is soaked in ‘harda’ powder (obtained from the bark of a tree) for 10 to 15 minutes so that it turns yellow. It is then dried in the sun till the fabric becomes hot. The side of cloth exposed directly to sun rays absorbs the colors well so that they appear sharp and fast. After this treatment, the cloth is beaten and kneaded to make it print worthy.

Based on the skills :

For dyeing, it is important to note that the colour which is used should be of exact weight and that the utensils used are also of proper shape and metal. The first colour taken up for printing is red which is prepared using gum, alum, and ochre ( geru). Printing is done with the help of the wooden block which is rubbed against the pad kept soaked in the prepared colour and pasted on the cloth laid on table one after the other in series with hand. However, the printers rely on their judgement for the quantitative estimates regarding the usage of these colors and dyes.

No Research on Block Printing:

No research work on the process has been initiated on hand block printing so far. The production process is traditional and passed on generation to generation. Technical support to this industry from research institutes is very rare.

Process is time consuming :

As may be realized, this process of printing is long drawn. It becomes all the more difficult when several dyes are required to be used for printing since the cloth has to be re-washed, soaked and dried again for each dye usage to make it ready for the next stage. This is also the reason why the printers who have taken up to printing of the main colors only that is red, brown and black using natural dyes.

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Rainy season means no work :

During Monsoons, although a short-term period here is a duration of lull with practically no work due to dampness in the weather which leads to colour leaking on the cloth if printing is continued. Bright sun-shine provides fabrics an extra lustre making it easy to dry.

Testing has little relevance :

The testing facilities to check the quality of fabric and the type of dyes used are available in Textiles Committee, but most often, testing is not resorted to. This is because the grey fabric is supplied by the buyer and so the responsibility of ensuring the right quality of fabric does not rest with the printer. For the export market however, there are certain dyes which are banned, being carcinogenic in nature. Since the printers are not directly involved in exports and the exporters themselves do not provide specific instructions that may require testing of dyes, the same is not resorted to.

e. Production Systems in screen printing

Screen Printing in contrast is easier and faster :

All the drudgery related to washing, drying, soaking, colour preparation, 'dabu' application, block manufacturing and thereafter printing the impressions one by one is avoided when screen printing is used. It is mainly the ready-made dyes based upon chemicals which are used for the printing work. Such dye colors are comparatively more shinning. Printing is not only much quicker by this method but also requires less labor. Once the screen stencil is ready it can easily print three to five thousand metres of cloth in a day, while in hand printing this much work will take continuous printing for ten days.

Processing starts with bleaching :

The grey cloth for printing mainly comes from the near-by region of Kishangarh as also from far away areas of Erode, Salem, Tirupur, Coimbatore etc. This cloth has to be bleached before being taken up for dyeing. The bleaching process is undertaken in large cemented tanks where the cloth is soaked along with the bleaching powder and other chemicals. Thereafter the cloth is given a few washings and dried up.

Followed by dyeing :

A mechanized system called Winch dyeing is the most commonly followed method to dye the cloth. In a metallic tank, water mixed with the synthetic dye is filled and the cloth turned over and over through this water with the help of winch in order to ensure uniformity of colour spread. The cloth is then dried up under sun. For bleaching and dyeing it is usually the same units which undertake both the operations together. However, some units undertake either only bleaching or dyeing. Only a very few big units of printing also undertake bleaching and/or

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dyeing within their premises along with printing. These units may be involved in direct exports and thus the quality and timely delivery of the fabric may be too crucial for the unit to subcontract.

Calendering irons out the wrinkles for printing :

The dyed and sun dried cloth with a lot of wrinkles is still not ready for printing and has to be sent for calendering which is done with the help of a calendering machine which consists of two or more metallic rollers. In order to ensure smooth surface, the rollers are heated with electrical energy. In bigger calendering machines, steam is injected on the cloth just before it passes through the rollers.

Printing is done on tables :

The calendered cloth is then spread over long concrete tables ranging from 20 to 40 feet in length and 4 to 6 feet in width. The screen which is got prepared from outside equivalent to the length of 4 to 6 feet is then used to spread the dyes manually on the fabric by two workers, one on each side of the screen. This is done with a wooden scrubber (called stepper) that is used to push the dye across the width of cloth from one side to the other. With this, an impression of one part of the design in that specific colour is thus imprinted on the fabric. For each colour a separate screen is used . The fabrics are printed normally in four to eight colors.

Screen preparation is a separate business activity :

Screen stencil preparation is a separate business activity. There are different actors who are involved in the preparation of a screen. First of all an artist makes a multi colored sketch of the design on a white drawing sheet which is approved by the printer. Artists based in Jaipur and from Jetpur in Gujarat sell their sketches at the rate of Rs. 500/- to Rs. 1500/- each. The paintings so obtained are then given to the designer for tracing and development of screens used subsequently for printing. A tracer then traces the sub-designs from that sketch, one each for a colour. Thus the number of tracings made are equal to the number of colors to be printed on the fabric. The tracing is then placed over the polyester based screen through which chemicals are applied within the contours of the tracing. The screen is thereafter fitted on steel pipes in a square or rectangular frame. This screen frame after being dried up is ready to be used as a stencil.

5. Assessment of the Organisation of the Cluster as a Response to the Competitive Environment:

Inadequate response to the changing Scenario:

30 year ago Block Printing was the only method of production for both utility products and exclusive items. With the changing scenario market demanded utility products in large volumes in short period. As an result Screen printing gain recognition in mid seventies. Which was

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capable of producing in large quantities at much lower cost and time than Block printing. This method of production easily took over the industry in terms of volume of production in utility items. Exclusive items with ethnic designs and ecofriendly dyes remained comparative advantage for Block printing. But block printers didn’t changed themselves with changing scenario and remained competing with the utility products. It was outsiders (mainly Khatris ) who took the growing market demands with screen printing. There exist huge potential for exclusive products and large market still remain untapped. Block printer being disjointed form the market didn’t find their way to this segment and remained competing with low cost screen printing. They lowered down their quality and also started mixing chemical dyes in order to lower down the cost. There are only a few exporters who have access to this segment and are providing them quality, ethnic and ecofriendly vegetable dyed products.

Unfair Competition among Screen Vs Block:

Screen has mass middle market whereas Block have exclusive High end market. The taste and preferences of both end markets are entirely different one is price conscious other is not so. One loves bright colors other loves Eco-friendly vegetable colors. One ask for uniformity other is buyer for exclusivity. So it is vary unfair competition among those whose markets and their requirements are entirely different. Block printers are seeing Screen as there competitors because they don’t have reach to their high end customer. They want to compete with low end market where Screen has clear competitive edge. It is not wise for Block printers to compete with Screen. Because of this unfair competition and mismatch Buyer and producer from Block printing specifically and hand printing in general facing number of problems.

Cluster on the low end road :

The hand block printing industry at Jaipur is competing on the basis of low prices, usage of cheap materials and cheap labor. Lack of innovation and infighting among various actors in the industry are the other characteristics of the cluster. The industry whether in the field of screen printing or hand block printing, does not inspire confidence since it seems to be bogged down with several problems. The industrial units despite being dependent on each other are not united to take up issues for their long term development. The level of co-operation among the units, traders and designers is poor. The strength of the trader who invests in the raw material and provides it to the printer and then sells the final product is the maximum beneficiary in the industry. He has been able to squeeze the maximum out of the other actors by ensuring cost cuttings by all the actors in the chain. A tendency of undercutting each other by printers is generally noticed.

Unfair practices galore :

The complaints of not using the right quality of fabric and dyes were mentioned quite often by the units themselves. In the name of using natural dyes, synthetic dyes were used that were either not permitted as per the regulations or were not to be used as per the mutual agreement, especially with regards to the export market. For the domestic market, the size of bed spreads

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has been reduced from the conventional size of 90 inches X 108 inches to 90 X 85 inches reflecting the reaction to demands for price reduction per piece.

Association activated due to pollution related litigation :

The screen printers had formed an association called ‘Sanganer Rangai Chhapai Association’ which got activated mainly because of the public interest litigation filed and won by a local lawyer on the issue of pollution created by the units. The judiciary had directed the 'State Pollution Control Department' to issue notices for the closure of polluting units thus affecting most of enterprises in Sanganer. 188 units had been issued notices by the Pollution Control Board. 46 units had then applied to the board for issuance of the ‘No Objection Certificates’ but all of them were rejected during the year 1995. The association has been able to get a stay order against the closure in the High Court and thus provided a breather to the industry.

Firms looking for a way out :

The units await the final judgment of the court with their fingers crossed but unwilling to take up a step to set up facilities to prevent and control pollution. Their hopes hinge on the slow system of judiciary which may take years to decide on the pending litigation. An important reason for not investing in the pollution control facilities is that the areas that these units have set up their enterprises on, is in any case unauthorized and thus devoid of civic amenities. The telephones, electricity connection, and roads are all in a bad shape. But the association's plea with the state government has not met with much success. The Sanganer Rangai Chhappai Association has set up a 'Pollution control society'.

Sporadic activities sometimes :

During the current year, the Sanganer based association had arranged a training camp with the help of Rajasthan Consultancy Organisation with the funding from the central government. 50 trainees from different firms had participated. Besides this, the association had not been providing any services. There is neither any staff nor a formal office of the association. It operates from the personal offices of the office bearers.

Traditional printers still dithering :

It is understood that almost 25 years ago, the printers had formed a co-operative society in the name of 'Calico Cooperative Society' which not only provided grey cloth to its members but also marketed the printed fabric on their behalf. It has been stated that the society disintegrated and stopped these functions because some of the members had developed personal interest in going ahead in marketing their own products. This society which exists today helps the members to remain socially together. The fear of creating conflicts has dissuaded them in reviving the co-operative venture on commercial footings. The society has two showrooms and some more property which is not being put to use. The people in the industry are gaining consciousness on government apathy and forming or reviving their associations.

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Traditional Printers at Sanganer beginning to revive acturities :

A new association of the traditional printers in Sanganer is under formation. The main programme set out before this association is the development of a ‘Shilpgraam’, i.e. 'village of the artisans'. The association will undertake to provide services to its members for providing raw material and will also undertake to market the produce on co-operative basis. Besides, it would provide other necessary services related to common effluent treatment plants. The social body of the traditional printers has already some infrastructure in the form of a building where they can hold meetings. But the new initiatives are still being worked upon and modes of financing being explored.

Interface with the government lacking :

Co-operation with the government is quite poor almost at all levels. The local administrative institution such as 'District Industries Centre' and the state agency for development of real estate and industrial sheds called RIICO are not in close tandem with the units in the industry. The only facility set up by the government is the facility of a 'Dry port inland container terminal' at Sanganer which is appreciated by the industry.

Separate Industrial estate:

Rajasthan Industrial and Investment Corporation Ltd. (RIICO) has now announced a plan of developing a new industrial area near Jaipur to be meant exclusively for textile and printing units.15 Pollution seems to be only and the major problem by policy makers to rehabilitate hand printers at proposed industrial estate. The cost of unit in proposed estate is seemingly beyond the means of most of the traditional block printers.

An old initiative on pollution never took off :

NEERI, a Government institution was to have been commissioned to assess the extent of pollution problems related to the industry in Sanganer for the screen printing industry. The step was to have been taken up by the local authority called Jaipur Development Authority. But the fee demanded was said to be too high and so the project never saw the light of the day.

Other developmental institutions also not appreciated :

The service and support institutions set up by the government such as 'Weavers Service Centre', 'Rajasthan Emporium' and 'Handloom, Handicraft Export Promotion Council' and 'National Craft Institute for Hand printing of Textiles' have also not been able to make sufficient

153 Ref. : Advertisement note printed in `The Economic Times’, New Delhi, dated 17th September, 1996 on behalf on the General Manager, RIICO, Udyog Bhawan, Jaipur.

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impact on the industry growth. Neither the units themselves nor the associations thereof mentioned about these institute.

6. Conclusions and Recommendations :

The core issues affecting the industry adversely may be summarised as under;

(i) Lack of enough space. (Bagru, Sanganer both)(ii) Scarcity of water resources (Bagru, Sanganer both)(iii) Pollution Control (Sanganer mainly for screen printers, bleachers & dyers)(iv) Lack of Education and shortsightedness. (Bagru, Sanganer both)(v) Lack of Organizational skills (Both)(vi) Lack of financial resources leading the printers to become jobworkers. (Both)(vii) Lack of trust and lack of long term relationships at all levels. (Both)(viii) Poor marketing skills. (Both)(ix) Lack of clear understanding about the market prospects in domestic and export

markets.(Both)(x) Lack of New Design inputs (Both)(xi) Lack of New product innovation services (Both)(xii) Lack of R & D for upgrading production process and controlling time factor

(Traditional) (xiii) Lack of Infrastructural facilities like washing facilities and process houses (Both)(xiv) Lack of Quality assurance mechanism (Both)(xv) Disjointed with the market (Both)

The strengths of the sector are :

(i) Availability of the grey fabric.(ii) Skills of the people.(iii) Ethnic designs and associated reputation.(iv) Established contacts of the trader community with the export community. (v) Ecofriendly Vegetable dyes(vi) Young and Educated next generation

Strategy for the future:

Hand printing textile industry is a well diversified industry, on the basis of geographical location, method of production, working communities and also their access to the market. These groups can be differentiated on the basis of their individual characteristics, priorities and requirements. The identified groups are

Block Printers located at Bagru Block Printers located at Sanganer Screen Printers located at Sanganer

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Exporters/Manufacturers located at JaipurInitiating a programme to bring them all under one umbrella may not be feasible at present because of their different priorities. Initially small focus groups can be identified with their common problems and requirements to solve their problems. With the level of confidence building up among themselves, the different groups could then be brought under a single umbrella.

Recommendations :

(i) Get a consumer survey conducted to understand the requirements tastes, problems and preferences of consumers. It should lead to clear understanding about the parameters responsible for the growth and cycles of the industry.

. (ii) Assuming that there are good prospects, there is a need to set up a mission to revive

the old art and build up its market value and common brand image.

(iii) Training Programme on marketing for young and enthusiastic printers who are keen to market their own products. Market linkages are most required input for developing this industry.

(iv) In the short term, exposure to the markets directly is a must. For years, the Chhipas (Printers) continued to work as subcontractors without getting a direct access to the consumer. The Govt agencies that are already in the process of providing support should be involved in arranging visits to the various handicraft fairs. This should provide support to such new units who have not been exposed to these type of fairs earlier. Education to the printers is also a must. Currently there are a limited number of printers who are assisted through financial assistance. This must spread out.

(v) Set up grey fabric supply facility, it would help the industry to a great extent as a means of financing and thus provide an incentive market the product directly to the consumers.

(vi) Encourage the setting up of a few marketing co-operatives in the form of NGOs - comprising of some enlightened and dynamic leaders who are willing to co-operate with each other. Each of these cooperatives with a membership of 10-20 persons could help to achieve economies of scale in terms of marketing and raw material sourcing. One big society may not be a feasible option. This is more true for the traditional printers.

(vii) The state government should consider the demand of industry for conversion of the agricultural land to industrial land so that they could register themselves as SSI units and be eligible to get access to the civic amenities and credit facilities. This however is only feasible subject to the industry working out feasible option for setting up pollution treatment facilities, individually or commonly. The Sanganer Rangai Chapai Association could be encouraged to run the common effluent treatment plants on behalf of the industry.

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(viii) Simple improvements in the technology could be simultaneously worked at to ease the labor intensity of the job. This could relate to the printing by hand operated machines that need to be developed and drying of fabric through drying machines.

(ix) Designs are the life line of traditional block printing industry. Compatible design inputs are badly required by this industry. A design centre with professional designers and CAD/CAM facility is required.

Structure of carrying out the implementation programme :

In order to achieve all this, it is equally necessary to set up a structure that would have the developmental outlook through commercial route. Persons who are close to the units there and have the confidence of the units need to be joined together to carry forward the programme of building up co-operation. A society should be encouraged to be formed consisting of advisors of the trusted people. It must employ some professionals and seek necessary assistance to promote the uniqueness of the product so that it provides higher value addition. UNIDO/ UNDP and other donor institutions should undertake to support the small set up on a contractual basis for a period of say 3 years and thereafter renew it if necessary. The Executive Committee should be run by the professional as Chief Executive Officer.

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Bibliography

1. Alam, Ghayur "Industrial Districts and Technological Change : A Study of the Garment Industry in Delhi" (New Delhi, Centre for Technological Studies, Nov. 1992, mimes)

2. 'Bagru Print Industry’, Economic Times, New Delhi, 27th Dec., 1994

3. Commercial and Industrial Guide, 1996

4. Gopal Sharma - `Bagru Print : Rs. 22 Lakh Plan goes down the drain. (Hindi) Jaipur, Nav Bharat Times : 29th Nov., 1988)

5. 'Govt. apathy hits world renowned Art’, The Statesman, New Delhi, 6th December, 1995

6. Survey of Indian Industry, 1996, The Hindu

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Annex 2Note 1

Trust building is defined here as an activity specifically carried out to explain each other’s perception on scope for cooperation and activities that may be carried out to enhance cooperation. Such activities can be informal, i.e. a routine discussion or a formal meeting of a group. Again trust building needs to take place between the CDA and the groups of cluster actors in networks and between the CDA and the local support institutions. It also takes place among the cluster actors and between network of cluster actor and the local support institutions and also between various networks of the cluster. The tabular representation (Table 1) speaks of trust building between CDA and the cluster actors and the support institutions.

Action plan is defined as an activity that leads to creation of a plan that is a combination of various mutually exclusive activities. It may so happen that an action plan is modified at a later point of time. Any formal meeting/workshop related to refining of a previous action plan can also be considered as an activity related to action plan. The action plan can include action plan of networks, cluster and support institutions, related to the cluster.

Implementation is defined as an activity that results in measurable output in terms of economic benefits, i.e. say related to sales, technology, training, exposure, credit, formation of special networks, etc. Activities related to implementation can be divided into 3 types:

Short run activity (SR): An activity that requires less than seven days of planning and execution and are often replicated.

Medium run activity (MR): An activity that requires more than a month’s but less than three months' time for planning and execution and is sparingly replicated.

Long run activity (LR): An activity that requires more than six months of planning and execution has been defined here as a long run activity.

Note 2

This methodology has been taken from an evaluation study done by EDA Rural System for UNIDO.

Box – Scoring of institutional linkagesScore Meaning01

No linkageVery poor linkage, no impact on cluster

2 Poor linkage, very little impact3 Fair linkage, some impact4 Good linkage and significant impact5 Very good linkage and very good impact

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Annex 3

List of ActivitiesMonth (Year)

Activity Activity Nature

Objective achieved

1. Cluster as a whole1.1 Feb. 1997 Diagnostic study improved upon TB1.2 Sept. 1997 Visit of Italian expert AP Issues related to international

marketing addressed1.3 Jan.1998 Workshop on cluster by NABARD AP Areas for implementation

verified with cluster actors1.4 Nov. 1998 Visit by UNIDO Vienna and MP

Govt.M&R

1.5 Dec. 1998 Rapid survey of NID AP Various technical issues identified

1.6 Feb.1999 Workshop by SIDBI on MCGFS LR (see 1.6)

Discussed concept with cluster actors

1.7 Aug. 1999 Discussions on rules of MCGFS LR Formation of draft rules1.8 Sept. 1999 Workshop on cluster by DC (HC) M&R1.9 April 2000 Visit of 10-member high power

delegationM&R

1.10 April 2000 Survey by IIT Delhi AP Various technical issues identified

1.11 June 2000 Survey by NPC AP Various pollution related issues identified

1.12 Aug. 2000 Evaluation by EDA Rural Systems M&R1.13 Sept. 2000 Workshop on washing technique SR Improved quality of end

product1.14 Sept. 2000 ATIRA’s survey on pollution AP Addressed pollution related

issues1.15 April 2001 Vision Workshop MR Linkages with other block

printing clusters1.16 Mar. 2001 Meeting with DC (HC) M&R1.17 June 2001 Workshop on mechanical washing MR Improved quality of end

product1.18 Aug. 2001 Workshop on vegetable dyeing SR Availability of readymade

vegetable colours and application techniques

1.19 Sept. 2001 Action plan for DC(HC) support AP Submitted a plan for the cluster

1.20 Dec. 2001 Marketing survey AP Indicated various marketing issues

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Month (Year)


Objective achieved

2. Printers/Trader-cum-printers at Sanganer2.1 Aug.1997 Marketing training programme MR Trained in marketing and

provided market knowledge2.2 Sept. 1997 Election of Calico Society TB2.3 April 1998 Fair-cum-demonstration of Calico

Society at JaipurMR Sales of products and

understanding of market2.4 Sept. 1998 Osaka fair and Tokyo fair MR Understanding of exports

market and export order2.5 Sept. 1998 Market oriented designing

programmeSR Selection of designs suitable

for Japanese market2.6 Nov. 1998 Lecture on European designs SR Understanding European

designs2.7 Jan. 1999 Reopening of Calico Showroom LR Creation of new marketing

avenue2.8 Mar. 1999 Fair of Calcio Society at Jaipur SR Sales of products2.9 April 1999 First Delhi fair of Calico Society MR Sales of products2.10 April 1999 Participation in Florence Fair MR Sales of products and exports2.11 April 1999 Fair at JKK, Jaipur SR Sales of products2.12 May 1999 Loans to firms by bank MR Working capital2.13 June 1999 Fair at Sanganer SR Sales of products2.14 June 1999 Creation of first SHG at Sanganer TB2.15 Sept. 1999 Fair at Mumbai of Calico Society MR Sales of products and

undestanding of market2.16 Oct. 1999 Second Delhi Fair of Calico

SocietySR Sales of products and

undestanding of market2.17 Dec. 1999 Fair at Ludhiana of Calico Society SR Sales of products and

undestanding of market2.18 Jan. 2000 REDP SR Training in entrepreneurship2.19 Jan. 2000 Health Camp SR Social security2.20 Feb 2000 Insurance of Artisans SR Social security2.21 Oct. 2000 Participation in India Weave 2000 MR Sales of products and

undestanding of market2.22 Nov. 2000 Learning of Computers MR Latest tool in marketing2.23 Nov. 2000 Participation in Handicraft Expo

2000SR Sales of products and

undestanding of market2.24 Nov. 2000 Participation in IITF, 2000 SR Sales of products and

undestanding of market2.25 Dec. 2000 Operatioinalisation of MCGFS LR Working capital loans to

groups2.26 2001 Creation of new designs by one

group of printers at SanganerMR New marketing possibilities

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Month (Year)


Objective achieved

2.27 April 2001 Special fair of Sanganeri and Bagru products by UDYOGINI

MR Sales of product and market information at a new venue

2.28 2001 Creation of 2 SHGs at Sanganer TB (2 activities)

2.29 Oct. 2001 Participation in ACASH fair by 2 SHGs

SR (2 activities)

Sales of product and market information

2.30 Oct. 2001 Participation in a DC(HC) fair SR Sales of product and market information

2.31 2001 Disbursement of loans to 2 SHGs under MCGFS

MR (2 activities)

Working capital loan to 2 groups

3. Exporters at Jaipur3.1 1997 Workshop on designs SR Technical knowledge

enhancement3.2 1997 Workshop on internet and web SR New marketing tools3.3 1998 Workshop on CAD SR Technical knowledge

enhancement3.4 1998 Formation of CoTex TB3.5 1998 Workshop on WIN-WIN TB3.6 Feb 1998 Designing exercise with NID

designerMR Creation of new designs for

European market3.7 April 1998 Participation in Florence Fair MR Export marketing3.8 Sept. 1998 Participation in Osaka fair MR Export marketing3.9 Oct. 1998 Website of CoTex launched MR A new marketing tool3.10 Sept. 1999 Training on visual merchandising MR Export marketing3.11 Jan. 2000 Participation in TexStyle 2000 MR Export marketing3.12 April 2000 Florence Fair Italy SR Export marketing3.13 June 2000 Ergonomic study initiated LR Productivity enhancement and

improved working condition3.14 Feb 2001 Participation in TexStyle 2001 MR Export marketing3.15 June 2001 Ergonomics LR Newly designed blocks and

table created3.16 Aug. 2001 Visit to Ludhiana SR Identification of machinery to

speed up fabric processing and explore printing on wool

3.17 Nov. 2001 Creation of pollution control unit LR Creation of a new pollution control unit and its replication

4. Printers of Bagru4.1 April 1998 Marketing training programme MR Training in marketing and

infusion of market knowledge4.2 Feb-May

1999Skill upgradation programme (SKUPRA)

LR Creation of designs and products for sale in the market

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Month (Year)


Objective achieved

4.3 Aug. 1999 Training of trainers MR Training in scientific approach to printing pre & post printing techniques

4.4 Aug. 1999 Creation of first SHG TB Getting prepared for MCGFS4.5 Sept. 1999 Registration with DC handicraft SR Marketing outlet4.6 Oct. 1999 Participation in ACASH fair MR Sales of products and

understanding of market4.7 Oct.1999 Marketing of SKUPRA MR Marketing in niche market4.8 Nov. 1999 Participation in IITF, Delhi SR Sales of products and

understanding of market4.9 Dec. 1999 Towards the creation of a

common platform of artisans at Bagru

LR Working towards self sustainability of intervention

4.10 January 2000

Health Camp SR Understanding of health issues

4.11 March 2000 Formation of two Associations TB (2 activities)

Self-sustainability of intervention

4.12 March 2000 Workshop on E-commerce SR Understanding modern marketing tools

4.13 June 2000 Survey for Shilpgram AP -4.14 August

2000Training on Computer MR Technical knowledge & also a

potential marketing tool4.15 Sept. 2000 Exhibition in Rajasthan Conclave SR Sales of products and

understanding of market4.16 Oct. 2000 Participation in India Weave 2000 SR Sales of products and

understanding of market4.17 Dec. 2000 Workshop on Shilpgram AP -4.18 December

2000Operationalisation of MCGFS LR Working capital loan

4.19 December 2000

Launching of Dhabu paste Machine

LR Creation of new technology

4.20 April 2001 Exclusive fair on Bagru prints SR Sales of products and understanding of market

4.21 October 2001

Participation in ACASH fair SR Sales of products and understanding of market

4.22 2001 Establishment of showroom by a Bagru artisan

MR New marketing outlet

4.23 Feb 2001 Preparation of base plan for Shilpgram

LR Improved working condition and reduction of pollution

4.24 April 2001 Deposit of keenness money for Shilpgram

LR (see 4.23)

Improved working condition and reduction of pollution

63

Month (Year)


Objective achieved

4.25 2001 Creation of new designs by a group of printers at Bagru

SR New marketing possibilities

4.26 Sept. 2001 Participation in tourism fair by 2 SHGs

SR (2 activities)

Exploring new markets

4.27 2001 Creation of 2 SGHs at Bagru TB (2 activities)

4.28 2001 Formation of Implementation Committee

LR (see 4.23)

Improved working condition and reduction of pollution

4.29 Oct. 2001 Participation in a DC(HC) fair SR Sales of products4.30 2001 Disbursement of loans to 2 SHGs MR (2

activities)Working capital loan to 2 groups

4.31 2001 Workshop on technical aspects of fabric preparation

SR Enhancing technical capabilities

64

Annex 4

Steps towards Making the New Block Handles and the New Triangular Table

New block handles

Handles are generally tied, often loosely, to blocks through nails. Since the blocks cannot be kept properly there is also problem of tracing the blocks and keeping a record for the same. Thus it was felt that if the handles could be detachable from the blocks, blocks could be kept properly, reducing breakage and also leading to better record keeping and easy tracing. To achieve such objective, the following path was explored: 1. The first idea was to create PVC handles, after discussion with the users2. Data on existing handles were collected and 4 standard sizes of handles were

suggested. The users accepted this.3. The proposal was made to insert handles through a sliding groove or to screw them to

the block. Users chose the screw system as this would lead to less wear and tear.4. The next step was to identify suitable and hazard free PVC easily available in the

market.5. Upon pilot testing, it was found that PVC type handles were too tough while hitting the

surface with naked hand.6. Tests with different types of PVC run in the same problems. 7. Use of soft material to cover the handle was suggested. This was located and was

supplied for testing. 8. The material was found good but the gum chosen was found inadequate for the material

to stick on it for long. The search for the right gum is still under way. 9. The size of the handles was standardized. But the fixation of the same in the blocks was

found cumbersome. The fixation norms (distance between 2 screws) were also not standardized for the 4 different lengths of handles that were prepared to fit blocks of all sizes.

10. Thus, a new norm of standard gaps between screws for any length of handle was prepared.

11. Screw fixation in the handles in itself required special drills and precision mechanics to replicate.

12. Thus, a steel insertion with standard gaps was prepared and the steel insertion was designed to work like a scale and provide precision guidance for simple screw fixation.

13. The blocks are now ready. Now the last issue of making of dyes for the PVC handles with the help of a fabricator and finalizing sources of regular supply of identified PVC needs to be solved. A Jaipur based PVC item manufacture has been identified for the same.

The triangular table has gone through the following modifications:

1. Creation of concept as a triangular table2. Finalising the width of the table

3. The width is identical on three sides. Thus, when the width gets converted into height, it is higher than the height of the existing table. There was choice between creating a pit or a platform for printing to take place. Finally, platform was preferred to pit.

4. Selection of material for making the table – steel was preferred to wood5. The initial drawing sent was questioned by the users for stability of the table, since it will

be a 6-meter long structure. A new drawing was made and was sent to a specialized institute to test the stability, resonance, etc.

6. Previously it was planned that the printers will turn the table and then a bolt will be used on either sides for fixing it. This concept was found not tenable, since the table will be very heavy. Hence introduction of a gear concept was suggested. The drawing was modified.

7. As of now the top of the table have 26 layers of jute cloth that makes the padding. The padding is fixed by stretching it manually across the breadth of the table. But the lengthwise tension is provided in a peculiar fashion. Bricks are placed under the table legs on four sides and the table is brought into a concave position because of its length. Then the 26 layers of jute clothes are nailed on both sides and the heads of the nails are chopped out. Then the bricks are removed. As soon as the table regains its normal position, the cloth gets the requisite tension and the surface material becomes wrinkle free. However, for a triangular table this possibility is ruled out.

8. Hence, a search for a new material – rubber/felt/mixture of rubber and felt was started to replace the conventional jute padding. 5 types of rubber and felt combination, which are elastic, alkaline and acid resistant and ½ inch to 1 inch thick, were located and sent to the users. These were tested one after another and finally a one-inch thick namda (woolen material) was identified as suitable.

9. When costing of this started, it was found that the cost of the namda for 3 sides of the table is coming to Rs 15,000 as compared to the cost of Rs 5000 if one uses the standard jute cloth for the 3 sides. Moreover, one is also not sure regarding the lasting capacity of the namda material. The jute material has already been historically tested for years.

10. Hence, it was decided to introduce some special tension providing rods at the end of the table, which can stress the jute material and the namda material was rejected.

11. The colour trolley was agreed for fixation with the table. The technique used was like a table drawer. But then there was requirement for pulling a 6-meter long structure out before printing and then pushing it in after printing. When it was taken to the fabricator, he pointed out that rather than creating this long structure the table can be made a little wider and the colour trey can be grooved inside. The drawing was changed.

12. Then a search for fabricator had to begin. The existing fabricator gave the cost of the table at Rs 90,000 including Rs 30,000 for cost of designing. Thus the cost of the table was coming to about Rs 60,000. This was not acceptable to the industry as a replicable cost. Since the cost of the table now comes to about Rs 15,000, a three-in-one table should roughly cost Rs 45,000 or less. Ultimately another fabricator was found who gave a revised estimate of Rs 40,000.

13. Then another change was suggested. Previously, the stand was to be fabricated with the table. But then printing has been proposed to be done from both sides of the table and multiple printers will use it. Hence, a stand fabricated with the table will create

66

disturbance in the form of resonance for a printer who is printing by another printer who is moving at that time. Thus, a civil construction of the stand, detached from the table was suggested.

14. Order was given to vendor to go ahead for the construction. Then came another hurdle. Till date, the table used to be constructed within a unit. But now the question arose as to how to transport the table. The alternative was to create SKD version of the table and assemble it inside the unit. This required another set of costing. It was then finalised and the table was constructed.

67

Annex 5Cluster Map after Intervention (2001)

Sanganer(150)

Foreign Buyer

Importers/Buying Agents

Exporters

International Fair

Upper Domestic

Lower Domestic

BoutiqueBlock, Cloth,

Dye

Washing, Dyeing

calendering

Designer

Support InstitutionsSIDBI, NABARD

DC (HC), RCCI, LIC

Service Institution• Technical: NID, NIFT, IIT, IICD, Private BDS• Marketing” WSC, DC (HC), RUDA, • Financial : Banks, SIDBI• Training: NID, NIFT, Private BDS

CoTex

Bagru(110)

Traders

SpecialFairs

National Fairs

Calico

SHGs SHGs

ASSONs

IIRD

Show Room

hand block printed textile cluster of jaipur: end of …clusterobservatory.in/report/jaipur...

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