COLOURING SYSTEM HAIR

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KEY INGREDIENTS 3

TECHNICAL MANUAL/Startpage 4

THE CLASSIFICATION METHOD 5

PRIMARY AND SECONDARY COLOURS/COLOUR WHEELS 6

EUMELANIN/PHAEOMELANIN 7

CLIENT CONSULTATION/TECHNICAL DIAGNOSIS 8

COLOUR PREPARATIONS 10

PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF REF COLOURS 12

GREY COVERAGE 15

RE-PIGMENTATION 16

COLOUR CORRECTORS 18

CORRECTOR NEUTRAL 19

BLEACHING POWDER 20

AFTERCARE 22

REF SILVER SHAMPOO 23

INDEX:

COLOURING SYSTEM HAIR

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From the time of ancient Egyptian women until today, women have always sought ways to enhance their natural beauty. We have evolved from Henna, herbs and spices to the combination of nature and 21st Century science to develop hair colour that performs to the highest standards and expectations of today’s modern women. REF Hair Colour limits the amount of chemicals used in the production of it’s products adding natural ingredients to enhance condition, shine and durability to our colouring system.

ALOE VERA

Long known for it’s healing and moisturizing

properties, Aloe also brings antibacterial and soothing ingredients to

the scalp during the process.

LOW AMMONIA

With less than 2% average Ammonia

content, REF ensures proper lift and deposit ratios at any level of

colour choice.

ANTI AGING

Contains “Thermus thermophilus”, an

effective, heat activated antioxidant that pro-

tects the hair and scalp from both UV-A and

UV-B rays.

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COLOURING SYSTEM HAIR

TECHNICAL MANUAL

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THE CLASSIFICATION METHOD REF Hair Colour System refers to the International numbering system: Number before the decimal = Hair colour level First number after the decimal = Main Reflex *(tone) Second number after the decimal = Secondary Reflex *(tone) This is an example of the colour influence breakdown: 7.0 100% Natural Level Olive Green based colour. 7.00 100% Natural level 7 with heavier pigment load for Grey coverage. 7.3 50% Natural level 7, 50% Gold influence. 7.31 50% Natural level 7, 30% Gold influence, 20% Ash influence 7.036 70%Natural level 7, 20% Gold influence, 10 Red influence 5.66 25% Natural level 5, 75 % Red influence

* Reflex= REF interpretation of reflection

1. Black 2. Extra Dark Brown 3. Dark Brown 4. Brown 5. Light Brown 6. Dark Blonde 7. Blonde 8. Light Blonde 9. Very Light Blonde 10. Extra Light Blonde 11. Special High Lift

.0 Natural

.00 Intense natural

.1 Ash

.2 Pearl

.3 Golden

.4 Copper

.5 Red Brown

.6 Red

.7 Violet

.9 Green

Hair color levels

Hair colour levels are classified using the reference scale:

(From the darkest to the lightest shade)

To identify the type of tone the numbering system defining the

colour level is followed by a second number separated by a

dot.

Example 5.56 5 = Level 5 = primary tone of red/brown 6 = secondary tone of red

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PRIMARY AND SECONDARY COLORS The three primary colors are:

The two Colour Wheels represent the basic colourimetry. The placement of the colours helps you define the primary, secondary and tertiary colours and to identify comple-mentary colours. For example, the colour purple and yellow are on the opposite sides of the wheel which shows that they are each others complementary colours. Blended in equal parts, they neutralise the reflection.

REF COLOUR WHEELS

This Wheel shows the nuances that has a higher quantity of basic brown pigment*, for a total grey coverage. The .00 and.003 are double pigmented colours which gives a darker result and is placed accordingly.

This Wheel shows the nuances that has a higher amount of reflections and gives a vibrant, intense colour result.

* When mixing three primary colours you obtain brown. The natural colours have a variable intensity of brown according to the level. This is to ensure a perfect grey coverage.

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EUMELANIN Eumelanin is large in structure and will completely dissolve during the bleaching proc-ess. It is found as the predominant pigment in people of Nordic and Asian origin. Its blue/violet colour is a direct compliment to the orange/yellow pigment in phaeomelanin. This explains the wide variety of naturally occurring hair colours all over the world. Eumelanin is easy to lift during blonding processes and is the first pigments to release when lightening. This pigment is also responsible for the level of darkness in all natural hair colour depending upon its concentration level.

PHEOMELANIN Pheomelanin is small in structure and never fully releases from hair. Very heavily pre-sent in African and Hispanic origin people, can not be lifted past underlying pigment of level 7. In Caucasian people may be lifted to underlying pigment of level 9 but will leave yellow residue. Pheomelanin is always found in any colour that is level 7 or darker but the concentration will depend on ethnic origin. If unsure ask client and also check eye-colour for gold flecks, a sign that pheomelanin is present in high concentration. High lift blonding with a colour application should only be a highlighting technique with this sce-nario. Only all over bleaching will reach the desired level of lift to achieve a desired re-sult. In levels 3-6 our High lifts will give beautiful caramel results due to neutralizing af-fects.

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CLIENT CONSULTATION Establishing desired result. Before proceeding with technical diagnosis, a client consultation must be carried out. This step is essentials for ensuring the success of any colour service. The following are examples of subjects to be discussed with every client requiring colour treatment: Using the swatches in the colour chart as a visual to confirm what the client wants

as a final result, is a good means of clarifying language and connecting it to visual experience, what idea does the client have of the final result?

Determine whether the result can be achieved (given the existing colour level condition of the hair)

Check whether the client intends to keep the colour for some time. Carry out a preliminary sensitive test.

TECHNICAL DIGANOSIS Technical diagnosis of the hair’s condition is fundamental for the success of any colour treatment. A good diagnosis will provide all the information required for a good colour treatment. 1. Hair Type:

Coarse ( choose 1/2 level darker) Medium ( use your target or desired target shade) Fine ( choose one level lighter)

2. Natural hair colour level and tone: And the level and tone of any existing colour. (Use the REF Colour Chart as your reference/guide)

3. Percentage of grey hair. Choose the most suitable oxidizing cream developer and REF Colour to obtain an even final colour. Identify the most suitable processing time (accounting for the room temperature)

4. The level and tone of your desired colour/target shade: (Use the shade selection guide and the REF Colour Chart as your reference/guide to accurately determine the level and tone)

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TECHNICAL DATA SHEET

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COLOUR PREPARATIONS All colour systems are designed to accomplish four major principles of colour results: Grey coverage Lightening Darkening Tonality change

REF HAIR COLOURING CREAM Covers up to 100% grey Lightening up to 4 levels with proper formulation Dedicated Developers to ensure maximum desired results 30 minute processing time, 40 for resistant hair and up to 50 minuteds for highlift

blondes

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MIXING RATIO The mixing ratio is 1 part colour cream to 1,5 parts developer

Example: 50gr of REF colour (1/2 tube) + 75gr developer.

For special high lift colours the mixing ratio is one part colour cream to 2,5 parts

developer.

Example: 30gr of special high lift colours + 75gr of developer

The mixture obtained changes colour after a few minutes. The apparent colour of the cream, for example purple for copper tones, will not affect the final colour.

The composition of the colorants also allows you to see exactly where the colour has been applied.

REF COLOUR CREAM REF DEVELOPER

100 gr 150gr

75gr 112gr

50gr 75gr

20gr 30gr

MIXING RATIOS

For every 10gr of REF Colour Cream mix with 15gr REF Developer

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PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF REF COLORS REF colours are a soft, fluid cream easily dispensed from the tube.

On mixing with the developer, it transform into a gel cream, releasing colouring and

conditioning substances into the hair

It should be mixed in a plastic bowl, bottle or shaker, mixing thoroughly to obtain a smooth cream. Don’t use metal objects (bowl, brush, whisk) in the mixing process.

The use of electric scales is recommended to guarantee a correct and easy-to-repeat formulation and mixing ratio, ensuring that the client will always have the same perfect colour.

REF Cream Developer: REF colours are designed to work with REF. dedicated Developers available in 10, 20, 30 and 40 volume. Choice of developer will depend upon amount of lift or deposit required for required process. 10 Volume / 3%: Level on level colour, darker col-

ouring or toning. 10 Volume delivers 100% deposit and up to 1 level of lift.

20 Volume / 6%: Grey coverage, and up to 2 levels

of lightening. 20 volume delivers 80% deposit and up to 2 Levels of lift.

30 Volume / 9%: High lift blonding or lifting action.

30 Volume delivers 60% deposit and up to 3 Levels of lift.

40 Volume / 12%: Ultra high lift blonding, maximum

lifting action. 40 Volume delivers 40% deposit and up to 4 levels of lift.

All developers may be mixed in equal ratios to achieve between volumes, e.g. 30 ml of 20 vol + 30 ml of 30 vol = 25 vol.

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APPLICATION Apply to unwashed dry hair under normal circumstances. If hair is exceptionally

dirty, hair may be washed and towel dried before application.

Application is quicker, more accurate and more economical thanks to the special cream-gel cosmetic formula designed to make the product adhere to the cuticle allowing the brush to slide down the whole length of the hair shaft.

Hair colour level Mixing Ratio REF Cream Developer

Processing time

Same level or darker 1:11/2 10 vol.(3%) 30 min

1-2 steps lighter or grey coverage

1:11/2 20 vol. (6%) 30-45 min

3 steps lighter 1:11/2 30 vol (9%) 30-35 min

4 steps lighter 1:11/2 40 vol (12%) 35-40 min

4-5 steps with special high lifts

1:21/2 40 vol. (12%)/30 vol (9%) 45-50 min

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APPLICATION

VIRGIN HAIR APPLICATION (lightening) A preliminary sensitivity test is recommended.

The use of scales is recommended for greater accuracy and perfect reformulation. Apply to dry, unwashed hair.

Step 1 Apply the defined colour mixture to the lengths and ends, processing time 20 minutes. Step 2 Prepare the desired mixture again and apply it to the roots, processing time 20-25

minutes. Total processing time 40-45 minutes.

RE-TOUCH OR RE-GROWTH (coloured hair) Step 1 Apply part of the chosen mixture to the re-growth; the processing time must be

appropriate for the diagnosis carried out (5-15 minutes)

Step 2 Distribute the remain of the product on the lengths and ends. Complete the processing time. Total processing time 30-40 minutes. This type of application refreshes the colour throughout the mid lengths and ends

leaving the hair soft and shiny.

N.B. if the re-growth is more that 5 cm follow the instructions for the first applica-tion.

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GREY COVERAGE REF colours have been formulated for level to level re-sults on 70% grey hair For a percentage of less than 50% it’s best to use a lighter shade. For example: to obtain a 7 use a 8. From 50% to 70% apply shade on shade for example; To obtain a 7 use a 7. Over 70% white hair, use a darker shade, for example; to obtain a 7 use a 6.

Desired result: Use:

X.00 (Intense naturals) contains more pigments and is designed to provide better grey coverage on resistant hair that has over 50% white.

PRE– PIGMENTING RESISTANT AREAS White hair around the hairline and temples can be more resistant to cover. In these in-stances pre—pigmenting these areas will prove to enhance coverage and desired re-sults. ALWAYS PRE– PIGMENT WITH A COLOUR TWO LEVELS LIGHTER THAN DESIRED LEVEL, WITH GOLD INFLUENCE. Example: Pre-pigment front section with 8.3 Natural hair colour dark blonde(6) Front section of grey hair 80-100% Desired result dark blonde golden (6.3)

Process: Step 1—Pre-pigmentation Apply the pure colour cream, (app. 5-20gr) to the area with the highest concentra-

tion of grey hair.

Step 2—Coloring Apply the chosen colour (6.3) mixed with developer at 20 vol directly on top of the

pre-pigmentation. In this case pre-pigmentation gives grey hair a quantity of coloured pigments that

will then be completed by the normal application of colour resulting in perfect cov-erage of grey hair.

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RE-PIGMENTATION When hair is lightened, underlying pigments are removed to create blonde tones. This technique involves replacing the missing underlying pigments that support the colour at the level to which you wish to colour. Warm tones must always be used to replenish the underlying missing tone (colours

with Golden .3, Copper .4 or Red .6 tones)

WHEN TO RE-PIGMENT? The technique of re-pigmentation is used when you wish to: Darken previously coloured or highlighted hair by two or more levels. RE-colour highly stressed hair.

(for example excessively lightened with highlights or de-colourized). Hair with these characteristics will only absorb cool tones due to molecular size of colour.

Replacing missing warm pigments ensures proper tonality of finished colourization.

HOW TO RE-PIGMENT? Previously lightened hair lacks warm pigments. These tones must be restored to ensure that the color is absorbed evenly and

therefore preventing it from taking on dull tones or too much ash (choose the REF color in a golden tone (x.3), copper (x.4) or golden copper (x.34)). This colour should always be one that is two levels lighter (than desired result) with warm

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EXAMPLE RE-PIGMENTATION The proper colour for each level must be achieved by combining the following colours for the appropriate levels: All of these formulas should be applied with equal parts 10 volume developer and

equal parts water. Example: 30 gr colour + 30 gr 10 vol + 30 gr water This mixture can be applied to all decolourized hair at the same time and proc-

essed for 20 minutes. Rinsed thoroughly and towel dried. Apply chosen REF. col-our with 10 vol Developer.

LEVEL MIXTURE

1-3 1 part 4.3 + 2 parts 6.4

4 1 part 6.3 + 1 part 6.4

5 2 parts 7.43 + 1 part 8.3

6 2 parts 8.3 + 1 part 7.43

7 2 parts 9.3 + 1 part 9.43

8 1 part 10.0 + 1 part 9.3

9 2 parts 10.0 + 1 part 9.3

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COLOUR CORRECTORS Colour Correction or adding intensity. REF colour corrector are pure colour tones, used to add extra tonal intensity to any REF colour or correct the tone. The lighter the base shade, the less mix is required E.g.; Desired result: 7.46 with more red

pigments. Mix 50gr 7.46 + 4,0 gr Red corrector + 81gr 10 vol(3% Peroxide).

Desired result: Special high lift pearl ash. To obtain a cooler result, mix 50 gr 12.21 + 5-15gr silver corrector depending on start level) + 130-140gr 40vol/12%

PURE APPLICATION To intensify strands or sections of the

hair, REF colour corrector can be used purely with cream developer to give ex-ceptional, brilliant color results. (apply to pre-bleached hair)

Mix 1 part REF colour corrector to 1:5 parts cream developer

LEVEL Corrector calculated for 50 g

12 Silver only max 15g

10 1.0gr

9 2.0gr

8 3.0gr

7 4.0gr

6 5.0gr

5 6.0gr

4 7.0gr

3 8.0gr

2 9.0gr

1 10.0gr

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CORRECTOR NEUTRAL This colouring product allows colour stylist to obtain highly satisfying results. Used in 20% amounts of the formula neutral will lighten any colour by one level,

leaving the colour clearer and more brilliant.

Example: 40gr 7.43 +10gr Neutral corrector + 75gr developer cream 10 vol or 20 vol .

Result: a lighter and more luminous copper/golden blonde.

Mix neutral with 30-40 vol developer cream. A lightening cream is obtained that can be applied to both natural and coloured hair and is useful for obtaining mild lightening or very natural looking high lights. Expect 2 to 3 levels of lift depending upon application used.

This mixture may be used over the colour application to achieve a beautiful natural

highlighted effect.

Used in special cases it can resolve various problems related to colour evenness.

Example: client with 70% of grey hair at the front and 20% at the back. By apply-ing, for example a 7.0, a lighter colour will be obtained at the front and a darker one at the back.

Solution: apply a 7.0 to the part with the highest concentration of grey hair, add 10gr of neutral and 15gr of developer to the remaining mixture and apply it to the part with the lowest concentration of grey hair.

Result: a more even colour will be obtained.

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REF BLEACHING POWDER REF Bleaching Powder is a high performance, dust free, blue pigment powder, suitable for all professional lightening techniques. Use decolourizer for full head application or any highlighting techniques.

Mixing ratio: 1:2 ( 1 part Bleaching Powder to 2 parts developer 10,20,30 or 40 vol Choose the volume of developer according to the level of lift you wish to achieve.

20 volume is the highest developer recommended for use directly on the scalp.

Development time is between 20-50 minutes, depending on the hair color, level of

lift, hair condition, technique, strength of developer and the quantity of developer used.

Ensure to constantly check the progress of the lifting at regular intervals (5 minutes)

When the target of lift is achieved, rinse off thoroughly with warm water and gently shampoo the hair.

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REF BLEACHING POWDER Do not apply to the scalp if there are any cuts, abrasions or signs of irritation.

Should be mixed in a non-metallic bowl with REF Cream Developer

Do not use wire whisk to mix powder and developer. Do not mix the product in a confined space.

To protect the scalp at full head application, apply the bleach to unwashed hair,

this provides protection through the scalps natural sebum.

At full head application begin the application where the hair is darkest and apply at the hairline and nape area last.

REF Bleaching Powder can be used for decolourization, mix 1 Part powder to 2 parts Cream Developer 10 or 20 vol.

Application should begin 3 cm off scalp and proceed to midshaft and ends. Once processed, scalp application should be applied checking every 5 minutes. Rinse off thoroughly with warm water and gently shampoo the hair.

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REF SILVER SHAMPOO/343 Is a creamy shampoo with violet and blue

pigments designed to neutralize unwanted yellow or brassy tones from lightened, natural or sun bleached hair.

Adds a hint of silver to grey hair, removing yellow tones that can develop from protein keratinizing.

Use in damp hair and leave up to 5

minutes, rinse well.

Can be used twice a week.

Finish off with Colour Conditioner.

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AFTERCARE After the development time, emulsify and rinse the colour

off with warm water.

Shampoo hair with REF colour shampoo until all color is washed out.

Treat hair with REF colour conditioner or

colour treatment for optimal colour care.

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HairCare of Sweden AB, Östermalmstorg 5, 114 42 Stockholm/SWEDEN www.referencehaircare.com info@referencehaircare.com