growing herbs: a beginner’s guide growing herbs...

Growing Herbs: A Beginner’s Guide

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Growing Herbs:

A Beginner’s Guide

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CONTENTS

1. INTRODUCTION Herbs in history Medicinal benefits Deter insects and pests Encourage pollination

2. GROWING HERBS OUTDOORS Location of your herb garden The soil

Cultivation

Growing from seeds

Cuttings

How to take cuttings

Division

Transplanting

3. GROWING HERBS INDOORS Pots and containers Growing medium Lighting Artificial lights

4. HYDROPONICS

Hydroponic systems Growing medium Passive and active systems Aeroponics Aquaponics

5. SOME POPULAR HERBS Angelica Fennel Anise Lavender Balm Marigold Basil Marjoram Borage Mint Carraway Parsley Catnip Rosemary Chervil Sage Chives Savory Coriander/Cilantro Tarragon Cumin Thyme Dill


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1. INTRODUCTION

Herbs in history:

Herbs are some of our oldest plants. Biblical records alone refer to many of

the herbs still in use today: The gospels of Matthew and Luke speak about

tithes of mint, anise, rue, cumin as does the book of Isaiah as well.

The Ancient Greeks and Romans used to crown themselves with Peppermint at

their feasts and their cooks flavoured their sauces and wines with its essence

and in the 16th century, the great English Bard, William Shakespeare used many

floral and herbal descriptions in his plays:

“ Hot lavender, mints, savory, marjoram

The marigold that goes to bed wi’ the sun ”

Many of us can still recall our grandmothers picking lavender and sewing them

into pretty muslin bags for gifts or to perfume dressers of clothes.

Medicinal benefits

On the medicinal side, herbs of course have been used for thousands of years.

The Papyrus Ebers, an ancient text written in 1500BC, contains references to

more than 700 herbal remedies, such as Anise, Basil, Calendula, Cumin, Dill,

Parsley, Marjoram and many others.

Indeed, herbal medicines led the way in the development of many of our

modern medicines. Even today, plants and herbs are still used in the making of

some modern medicines. For example, the plant digitalis is used to make the

heart medicine digoxin and the herb chamomile (camomile) is commonly used

as a soothing agent in many skin lotions.

The increasing popularity of herb teas is testament to their ability to help with

minor conditions: A cup of chamomile tea at night can help calm the nervous

system for a good night’s sleep; peppermint and fennel teas can help reduce

gas and bloating, thyme can help with sore throats and sage has been known

to help reduce hot flushes in menopausal women.


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Deter Insects and Encourage Pollination

Herbs can also contribute to the overall health and well being of your garden.

Not only can their flowers attract bees that are much needed for pollination of

crops but many herbs help to deter unwanted insects and other pests that can

damage your plants. Companion planting is an effective and natural way to

deter pests rather than resort to chemical treatments. This is especially

important when growing vegetables, since you will want to avoid as much

chemical contamination possible.

The African marigold is one of a number of

plants used in companion planting. The

marigold is particularly effective as it

exudes chemicals from their roots and

protect neighbouring plants. They are

commonly planted next to plants that are

vulnerable to attack by nematodes that

burrow into the ground.

Other plants such as Chives and Coriander can keep away aphids; Basil, Catnip,

Rosemary and Sage repel flies and mosquitoes; Lavender is useful for keeping

away ticks. The following is a list of herbs known to be beneficial in repelling

and controlling garden pests naturally:

Basil Borage Catmint Chives Coriander Lavender Marigold (Calendula) French Marigold (Tagetes) Mint Oregano Rosemary Sage Thyme Winter Savoury

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2. GROWING HERBS OUTDOORS

The Location of the Herb garden

In general, the most favorable exposure for an

herb garden is toward the south as most herbs

enjoy a warm environment with plenty of

light. It is however possible to grow herbs in

other locations but ensure that they are

placed in the part of the garden (or your home

if growing indoors) where they will get

maximum levels of light throughout the day.

Where light levels are not ideal you may find that you will be more successful

with the more robust evergreen herbs.

Feeding your herbs occasionally can also help counterbalance some of the

deficiencies that can occur due to reduced light levels. Use organic feeds for

herbs – especially if you are going to use them for culinary or medicinal

purposes. However, do not overfeed them and keep to the stated dilution

levels otherwise you may damage your plants.

Some herbs, however, actually thrive on poor soils so it’s always best to check

your herb plants preferred environment before planting it and overwhelming it

with more nutrients than it requires. Herbs that generally are happy in poor

soils include: Oregano, parsley, sage, thyme and rosemary. For further

information refer to the specific plant as listed below.

The soil

A light sandy loam with a porous subsoil to

enable good drainage should be used when

planting herbs – whether in pots or in the

ground. Clay loams are less desirable as are

very sandy soils. A mix of perlite, vermiculite,

peat and some compost with a light sandy loam

on the top will provide your herbs with good

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drainage, nutrition and support.

Since garden soils will vary tremendously with geographic location, it is often

best to check with your local garden centre for advice on the best mixture for

planting your herbs in the environment you have in mind. Not all herbs enjoy

the same environment as each other so finding herbs that will flourish happily

in your garden’s soil and weather conditions will make cultivating a herb

garden so much easier in the long run.

Cultivation

Having planted your herbs in the

ground it is important to keep the

surrounding soil lightly hoed or raked

to keep weeds down and also so that

it creates a mulch to help prevent

loss of water from the lower soil

layers.

Where the herbs are being grown in containers or in small pots the

surrounding area can be lightly fluffed with a trowel.

In hot weather conditions you can add an extra layer of mulch to prevent your

herbs drying out and remember to keep them regularly watered.

Many of your herbs will flower at different points in the year and seeds can

then be collected for propagating later. Flower heads that have gone to seed

should be cut and laid out on a tray covered with paper and allowed to

completely dry out. The seeds can then be placed into small envelopes for

planting later. Do not put seeds into plastic bags.

Whilst your evergreen herbs will generally survive the cold winter weather

quite well others may benefit from being covered over to protect them from

frost. Alternatively, since most herbs are small enough to be moved into pots

you may choose to take some of them indoors for the winter months.

Growing from Seed

Although many herbs can be purchased from a garden center and ready to

plant, the most cost effective way to grow many herbs is to propagate them

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from seeds. However, some herbs, such as tarragon, and several other kinds

that don’t produce seeds, need to be propagated by division, layers, or

cuttings.

Herb seeds are generally better sown in shallow boxes or seed trays rather

than straight into the ground where they may dry out before they have grown.

Moisten your soil mix after filling your seed trays and sow your seeds finely

into each container. Lightly cover with a thin layer of soil and then gently

spray with water.

Place your seed tray in a warm location with plenty of natural light. When the

seedlings are large enough to be handled they should be transplanted to small

pots or somewhat deeper boxes and positioned with a adequate space

between other seedlings for room to grow.

Once conditions are favourable in the garden and when the soil is moist and

warm the herb plantlets can be planted in the ground. Alternatively they can

continue to be grown indoors in pots.

Cuttings

Herbs that have sprawling underground

stems such as the mint family are easy to

take cuttings from as they will root very

easily when placed into moist soil. However,

mint plants such as the peppermint,

spearmint, apple and chocolate mints are

prone to spread and become a nuisance

unless watched.

Planting these herbs in separate containers will prevent them growing out of

control and allow them to flourish without overcrowding everything else in

your garden.

Other herbs where you can take cuttings include: rosemary, sage, thyme,

lavender and verbena.



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How to take herb cuttings

Fill a pot with compost mix and leave about a 1cm gap

between the top of the compost and the pot.

Cut a length from the shoot tips that are approx 10cm in

length

Trim off the lower leaves and then cut cleanly beneath a

leaf joint.

Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone powder. This will

improve its chances of rooting

Insert a number of cuttings around the edge of the pot

making sure that they are not too close together and have

room to grow

Water the cuttings and label the pot with the name of the

herb.

It is best to take several cuttings of each herb to increase

your chance of success.

Cover your pots with some cling wrap or a clear plastic bag

and hold in in place with an elastic band. This will keep the

moisture inside the pot and create its own little ecosystem

to encourage growth of the cutting. Alternatively you can

buy a propagator to do the same job.

Make sure that the soil in your pots doesn’t dry out, so

check them periodically and avoid placing them in direct

heat

If you have taken cuttings late in the year it will be best to

keep them indoors until the better weather and then

introduce them to the garden only when the weather is

warm

Cuttings should take root in about eight weeks – at which

stage they can be potted into their own individual pots.

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Once the plants have taken root you will not need to keep

them covered anymore.

Several of the perennial herbs, such as sage, savory, and thyme, may be easily

propagated by means of layers, the stems being pegged down and covered

lightly with earth. Strawberry plants that have started to produce “trailers”

with little roots can also be propagated this way. However, do not cut the

stems until they have taken root.

If the moisture and the temperature be favorable, roots should be formed in

three or four weeks – at which point the stem can be cut and separated from

the main plant and planted.

Layering is probably the simplest and most satisfactory method of artificial

propagation under ordinary conditions, since the stems are almost sure to take

root if undisturbed long enough.

Division

Large clumps of herbs such as mint that has been growing in the ground can be

divided by using a sharp spade and cutting the clump into pieces about 6

inches square. The divided square can then be replanted elsewhere and well

watered.

This method is, however, the least satisfactory of all mentioned, because it too

frequently deprives the plants of a large amount of roots, which can impair its

growth. However, if division is done in early spring before growth starts then

the least amount of damage will be done to the plants.

Transplanting

Transplanting plants grown from seeds and cuttings into the garden – or from

a seed tray into an individual pot - should only be done once they have formed

a small ball of roots and where the stems look firm and upright and starting to

sprout leaves above the lower seed leaves. It is important not to leave

transplanting too late or the seedlings can become thin and leggy.

The soil in which you transplant your seedlings into should be light, moist and

with good drainage.

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Using a dibbler or a small stick make a hole large enough to hold your seedling

and its roots and then gently lift the seedling from the tray with a small knife

or spoon.

Sometimes the roots of seedlings become tangled together a little, in which

case you should gently loosen the roots and earth surrounding each plant and

break them away with as little loss of roots as possible.

Gently push the seedling into the hole in your soil and press the soil around it

to hold it in firmly. Repeat with all your seedlings selecting the strongest and

most robust ones first for potting up.

Water them in well and ensure that they are kept moist and not allowed to dry

out. Standing your pots on a tray of pebbles with enough water to reach the

level of the stones will help keep your plants moist.

Where plants grown from seedlings and cuttings are to be planted in the

garden they should ideally be placed into a cold frame to introduce them to

the outside environment gradually. If this is not possible then do make sure

that the weather will be warm and that there will be no night time frosts,

otherwise the young plants will become damaged and die

In all cases it is best to transplant when the ground is moist and that it is kept

well watered until the plants have become fully established. Transplanting in

cloudy weather and toward evening is better than in sunny weather and in the

morning.

When planting your young herbs in the ground make sure that you press the

soil firmly about their roots. Water the seedlings well in after planting.



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3. GROWING HERBS INDOORS

Many herbs that are grown outdoors can be just as easily grown indoors.

Apart from a few herbs that can grow quite tall, the majority of herb plants are

quite small and can easily be contained within a small pot.

If you lead a very busy lifestyle you will need to select the plants that need less

watering and care than some others. These days there are a number of self

watering options that includes buying self watering pots; do it yourself

irrigation systems and the increasingly popular hydroponics methods of

gardening without soil.

Since the general rules for growing indoors and

outdoors are fairly similar most of what has already

been written applies to growing herbs indoors and

you should enable you to grow a good selection of

herbs regardless of how big or small your indoor

garden space is.

A temperate environment with plenty of light is all that you need for growing

herbs in even the smallest of apartments. A window sill is a common area for

the placement of herbs although avoid putting plants in the line of strong

sunlight, since intense heat can dehydrate plants, burn leaves and cause them

to wilt.

Herbs, as with any plants, need room for their roots to grow and expand, so

make sure your herb plant has a big enough pot.

Pots and containers:

You can grow pretty well anything in a container, given that

you prepare it with an appropriate growing medium and keep

the plants well nourished and watered, especially during hot

weather. Container planting therefore has huge benefits for

indoor gardeners.

What is more, you can use almost anything for an indoor

plant container as long as it has a hole in the bottom for drainage.

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If you wish to use a pretty container that doesn’t have a drainage hole then use

it for holding a plant that has one. Standing a pot inside another more

attractive one has other added benefits where you need to keep the plant in a

humid environment. By putting some pebbles in the bottom with a little water

you can create an ongoing level of moisture that your plant can absorb through

its roots – but don’t have the pot immersed in water otherwise the plant will

become waterlogged and rot.

You can adapt this approach to any container planting. Standing your herb pot

or pots on a tray of small stones which you keep watered to the level of the

stones, is an easy and effective way for your plants to absorb water into their

roots without being overwatered. You just need to remember to top it up

periodically!

Whilst most garden centers offer a wide selection of containers – from cheap

plastic or basic clay pots to more expensive ones with glossy ceramic finishes,

ornate stone designs, polished wooden tubs, wrought iron troughs and Tuscan

terracotta urns – there are often many objects lying around in your own home

that can be used for planting purposes.

You don’t need to worry about the odd imperfection when using recycled

objects for containers; once you have plants growing all over them, any chips,

dents or discoloration will be hidden and you’re more likely to get compliments

about the originality of your container and how attractive it all looks.

The growing medium:

When growing herbs in pots instead of open ground, the growing medium that

you use is particularly important since it needs to have the right balance of

drainage and nutrients for it to flourish.

If you ask most people, they will think of soil as the only growing medium they

know. When it comes to planting in containers you are forced into using buying

a growing medium. There is a large number of mixtures on the market but it

can help to use a potting mixture, which can be easily bought from a garden

center.

The potting mixtures that garden centers sell for indoor plants are sterilized;

they don’t contain insects, eggs, diseases, fungi, spores or other pests. Such

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potting mixtures are light enough to allow good drainage and nutrient

absorption whilst being heavy enough to retain nutrients and moisture. They

are therefore ideal for use in containers.

A good growing medium needs to be porous, which actually means having little

spaces in between the soil particles. Ideally the medium should have half of the

pores filled with water and the other half filled with air and oxygen. This is

particularly important when growing plants in containers and it is therefore

important to use a potting mixture that is based on ingredients like perlite,

pumice and sand to help with aeration.

Container potting mixtures commonly contain vermiculite that helps moisture

to be retained around the plants root system.

A mix of compost with perlite and vermiculite together with a little sand is

therefore a good mixture for most herbs.

Lighting for Indoor plants:

All plants have some sort of light requirement; just as plants need water they

also need light. A plant cannot survive without light. When a plant is put in

conditions that do not meet its lighting requirements it fails to thrive and

eventually dies.Even plants that can cope with low light conditions, still need

that little bit of illumination during the course of a day so that they can stay

healthy.

Light can come into your home from different sources; it come from the

sunlight that comes through the windows; and it comes from overhead lighting

or from artificial desk light. In offices and atriums, light is found in the form of

incandescent, fluorescent and high pressure sodium, metal halide and halogen

bulbs.

Natural light is brighter than artificial light. So, when considering where to put

your plants in your home, you need to note the windows and the direction

from where the light comes. This will determine where you put your plants.

Plants that require low light need to be placed somewhere that does not get

direct sunlight. For example putting a low light plant in a window that faces

south or west will roast that plant. Likewise putting a plant that requires a lot

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of light in a north facing window will make it weak because of the inadequate

amount of light it receives.

For plants, the red and blue parts of the light spectrum are the most important

energy sources. Plants require more from the red and orange parts of the

spectrum than the blue. Leaves of plants reflect and take a little energy from

many of the yellow and green rays visible in the light spectrum as well.

During the seasons the position of the sun changes. In the summer it is directly

overhead; in the winter the sun is lower in the sky. Its not unusual for a plant to

be situated in medium or low light in the summer and in the winter placed

directly in the sunlight.

As the sun changes its angle so the plant should be moved to meet it. Plants,

even if they are not in the sun directly, can still tell when the seasons and angle

of the sun changes.

Artificial light:

When you do not have any natural sunlight in your home or good natural

lighting then you have to rely on artificial means of light.

Florescent lighting:

Florescent tubes provide good low to medium light for plants that require that

type of light. In locations where no natural light is available it is recommended

to use a combination of warm white light florescent tubes for their red

spectrum rays and cool white for their blue spectrum rays. The cool whites give

off very little heat so plants can stay cool. This is so even when they are placed

close to the cool white.

Incandescent lighting:

Incandescent light bulbs can be used in combination with natural or other light

forms. These types of light bulbs should not be the sole source of light for

plants. For a plant to grow, you need at least 100 watts for an incandescent

light bulb. This type of bulb gives off a lot of heat and the plant should be at

least 2 feet away from this light source.

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Metal Halide lights:

Metal Halide bulbs produce a lot of light in the blue spectrum. Depending on

how bright they are they support all common plants indoors.

Halogen lights:

Halogen are light bulbs that produce light similar to the sun. This makes them

ideal as plant lights. They produce a great deal of heat and the plant should not

be placed too close to them. Depending on how bright they are; they can be

used for all types of indoor plants.

High Pressure Sodium lights:

These types of lights are used in commercial greenhouses as a supplemental

light source to promote blooms. They produce red/orange light spectrum rays

but no blue. These lights are not recommended for domestic properties.

Just like watering, the lighting has to be right for a plant to thrive. If a plant is

placed too far from a lighting source it will not get adequate light. The same is

true if it doesn't get the right amount of hours needed in the light.



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4. HYDROPONICS

Put simply, Hydroponics is a method of growing plants without soil and is

ideally suited to small plants such as herbs.

Plants need nourishment to survive and grow. Plant foliage needs light, oxygen

and carbon dioxide; plant roots require water, mineral nutrients and oxygen.

When plants are grown in soil, water takes the nutrients out of the soil and

carries them to the plant roots. Water containing the nutrients is taken up by

the roots to feed plant growth. Soil drainage allows water to be replaced by air

in the gaps between soil gains and this supplies the roots with oxygen. The soil

itself is not essential to plant growth; it is simply a reservoir (a growing

medium) for storing and carrying the nourishment the plant needs.

In a hydroponic system, the soil is replaced by a more efficient medium for

carrying the water, nutrients and oxygen to the root structure of the plant. This

is usually an inert substance such as perlite1, clay aggregate, gravel, mineral

wool or even shredded coconut husks. The nutrients are dissolved in water and

are either fed to the plant indirectly via the growing medium or directly to the

plant’s roots.

Hydroponic systems therefore take away many of the headaches associated

with soil. In particular, no soil means no mess, no soil pests - and less expense.

In a traditional growing environment, where the actual growing medium is soil,

the plant expends a significant amount of energy building its root system in

order to search for the nutrients it needs.

In a hydroponic systems, plants have direct access to all the elements they

need for healthy growth. Nutrients are fed directly to the plant’s root system.

No longer does the plant need an extensive root system to gather its

nourishment; it takes as much of the nutrients it wants from the ready supply

of the nutrient solution being fed to it.

1 Perlite is a naturally occurring, non-toxic volcanic rock that has been heated to a high temperature to

produce a lightweight, micro-porous material with a high surface area. When used as a growth medium it offers good aeration, moisture retention and drainage.

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This means that the plant can focus all its energy on growth and on the

production of foliage and flowers, rather than developing lots of roots that

would normally be required if it were planted in soil.

With a hydroponics system, a plant will grow lots of foliage, flowers and fruit

and small amounts of roots.

Hydroponic systems:

There are different types of hydroponics systems and these are classified by

the growing medium used and by the method by which nutrients are delivered

to the roots.

The growing medium

In one type of system, plants are held in place (planted) in a medium such as

sand, gravel, clay pebbles, perlite, vermiculite or some similar substance.

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This kind of medium has an open structure that allows the nutrient solution to

pass through very easily: as a result, a plant’s roots have easy access to oxygen

and the nutrients it needs. The plants sit

in the medium itself and are fed and

watered via the medium - just as with

conventional soil culture

These are very simple systems to

construct and it is easy to build a home-

made system from any suitable container

- eg plastic food containers or glass jars. However, pots are by no means

expensive and this is a good way to start out with hydroponics.

Pots can be watered by hand but these systems usually incorporate some form

of automatic feeding mechanism.

One of the simplest ways of supplying the nutrients that the plants need is to

use a form of Wick. The plants sit in the growth medium in pots that, in turn,

sit above a water tray. The tray is filled with a nutrient solution, which is then

drawn up into the growing medium via the wick.

This is a Passive System in that there are no moving parts and no pumps. The

only requirement is for the grower to keep the water tray topped up.

A Drip Feed system is another simple way of providing the water and nutrients

that the plants need. The containers holding the plants are supplied with

drippers, which feed the individual plants. A pump and a timer regulate the

drip feed process.

Ebb and Flow is a system where the plants again sit in pots in a growing

medium and the pots are then subjected to regular flooding with a water-

nutrient solution. Some systems flood the plants from the top, others flood the

roots from below and up to a required level. In each case, after flooding, the

system allows the solution to drain away: every time the system drains, oxygen

is pulled down into the root zone.

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Solution culture

Here the plants do not use a solid medium for the roots, just the nutrient

solution itself. The plants sit in pots, which provide support for the plant base.

The pots sit in a floating platform (possibly made out of styrofoam) which

floats on top of the solution. The roots are left to dangle and grow down into

the solution.

The Nutrient Film Technique is similar to the ebb and flow system except for

one main difference.

Instead of an overflow drain that drains the solution back into the tray beneath

as a reservoir, the solution is pumped to a series of angled trays. From there

the solution runs down a slope across the roots of the plants and back down

into the reservoir.

As can be seen, some of these hydroponic systems are static or passive

systems in that little is done other than to aerate the solution using a pump

and an airstone2 to ensure that the plant roots get enough oxygen. If the

solution is left un-aerated, the solution level needs to be kept low enough

so that enough roots are above the

solution to get an adequate oxygen supply.

If sufficiently oxygenated, the plant roots

can remain submerged indefinitely.

The nutrient solution is changed either on

a regular basis or when the concentration

drops below a certain level. Whenever the

solution is depleted below a certain level, either water or fresh nutrient

solution is added. Once the plants are ready to flower, the level of the

nutrient solution can be gradually reduced to expose the roots to the air.

This kind of system is often called a Deep Water Culture. This does not

relate to the depth of the water as DWC is equally effective in deep and

shallow water. A more accurate definition would be Direct Water Culture.

2 An airstone, also called a bubbler, is a piece of porous stone, whose purpose is to

gradually diffuse oxygen into the tank.

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Active systems are those, where the nutrient solution is actively

delivered to the plant - eg Ebb and Flow.

In order to have a Hydroponic garden, all you need is a little space, some

light and a commitment to giving some attention to the plants.

Hydroponic systems offer a number of benefits to the grower:

They offer faster growth rates and bigger yields; the majority of a

plant’s energy is concentrated on foliage and flowering.

The grower can harvest sooner; there are more crops per year.

The systems are water efficient; there is no waste run off in re-circulating hydroponic systems.

There is a reduced chance of over or

under watering; the plants take as much

or as little as they need.

The systems are clean and produce minimum waste – a major benefit for indoor cultivation.

There are no soil-borne pests and therefore there is a reduced chance of

disease and reduced use of pesticides.

The grower has ultimate control over plant development; he can

specifically tailor the feeding schedule to the plant’s growth cycle.

Growers looking for a simple introduction to

hydroponics and the next step up in performance

from hand watering pots should begin with passive

hydroponics. These systems are simple to construct

and easy to run. It then becomes a simple step-up

to one of the more active systems - or even to

aeroponics.

Aeroponics and Aquaponics:

Finally, we need to take a brief look at Aeroponics and Aquaponics.

Aeroponics is a bare rooted system, where the roots are suspended in air in a

dark chamber. They are then sprayed at regular intervals with all the water and

nutrients the plant requires. With Aeroponics, the roots have the maximum

potential to absorb nutrients. These systems are considered an advanced

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method of hydroponics and require considerable attention to detail in order to

maintain proper pH and nutrient concentration levels.

Aeroponics and hydroponics share common features. They are both

obviously hydroponic systems in that they do not use (or need) soil to

grow plants. Also, they both use a nutrient rich solution to deliver

nutrition and fertilizers to the plants. In fact, almost everything is the

same, except for the way the nutrient solution is delivered: with

Aeroponics, the nutrient solution is delivered by spraying the roots

directly.

Many people believe that Aeroponics is a better way to grow plants than

other forms of hydroponics - and certainly better than traditional methods

of growing plants in soil. Because the roots are bathed with ideal levels of

nutrients, water and oxygen, plants grow significantly faster, are healthier

and have a higher nutrient content than plants grown in soil.

However, this approach is complicated and certainly not for

beginners.

An aquaponics system is a system wherein fish farming and crop cultivation is

simultaneously carried out, with minimal use of water and no fertilizers. The

word aquaponics is a combination of the words aquaculture (growing fish or

other aquatic organisms) and hydroponics (growing plants with nutrient-

enriched water).

Aquaponics relies on the recirculation of fish waste and recycled water, each of

which helps in the growth of the plants and the fish, respectively.

An aquaponics system is a very eco-friendly way of growing food plants while

also enjoying the fun of keeping fish. It’s essentially a self-contained system

with one element feeding the other. It is simple to set up an aquaponics

system once you have the proper equipment, all of which can be easily

purchased from specialist stores.

However, it is a much more complex system than any of the others described

above and again, certainly not for beginners.


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4. POPULAR COMMON HERBS

Whilst there are some general guidelines for growing herbs, they all have their

own characteristics. The following list of popular common herbs will provide you

with guidance on each plant’s origins, it’s preferred environment, the best

methods for cultivating them - plus the ways in which they can be used.

Angelica (Archangelica officinalis, Hoffm.)

Angelica is a biennial or perennial herb of the Umbelliferæ family, so called from

its supposed medicinal qualities. It is believed to be a native of Syria before

spreading to many cool European climates, especially Lapland and the Alps,

where it has become naturalized.

Description. Its roots are long, spindle-shaped, fleshy, and sometimes weigh

three pounds; its stems stout, herbaceous, fluted, often more than 4 feet tall, and

hollow; its leaves long-stalked, frequently 3 feet in length, reddish purple at the

clasping bases, and composed, in the larger ones, of numerous small leaflets, in

three principal groups, which are each subdivided into three lesser groups; its

flowers yellowish or greenish, small and numerous, in large roundish umbels; its

seeds pale yellow, membranous-edged, oblong flattened on one side, convex on

the other, which is marked with three conspicuous ribs.

Cultivation. Since the seeds lose their vitality rapidly, rarely being viable after the

first year, they should be sown as soon as ripe in late summer or early autumn, or

not later than the following spring after having been kept during the winter in a

cold storeroom. The soil should be moderately rich, rather light, deep, well


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drained, but moist and well supplied with humus. It should be deeply prepared

and kept loose and open as long as tools can be used among the plants, which

may be left to care for themselves as soon as they shade the ground well.

In the autumn, the seeds may be sown where the plants are to remain or

preferably in a nursery bed, which usually does not need protection during the

winter. In the spring a mild hotbed, a cold frame or a nursery bed in the garden

may be used, according to the earliness of planting. Half an inch is deep enough

to cover the seeds. The seedlings should be transplanted when still small for their

first summer's growth, a space of about 18 inches being allowed between them.

In the autumn they should be removed to permanent quarters, the plants being

set 3 feet apart.

If well grown, the leaves may be cut for use during the summer after

transplanting; the plants may not, however, produce seed until the following

season. Unless seed is desired, the tops should be cut and destroyed at or before

flowering time, because, if this be not done, the garden is apt to become overrun

with angelica seedlings. If the seeds are wanted, they should be gathered and

treated. After producing seed, the plants frequently die; but by cutting down the

tops when the flower heads first appear, and thus preventing the formation of

seed, the plants may continue for several years longer.

Uses. The stems and leaf stalks, while still succulent, are eaten as a salad or are

roasted or boiled like potatoes. In Europe, they are frequently used as a garnish or

as an adjunct to dishes of meat and fish. They are also largely used for making

candied angelica. The tender leaves can be steamed and eaten as a substitute for

spinach.

Angelica candied. The fresh roots, tender stems, leaf stalks and the midribs of

the leaves make a pleasing aromatic candy. The parts should first be sliced

lengthwise, to remove the pith. The length of time will depend somewhat upon

the thickness of the pieces. A few minutes is usually sufficient. After removal and

draining the pieces are put in a syrup of granulated sugar and boiled till full candy


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density is reached. The pan is then removed from the heat and the contents

allowed to cool and dry out on greaseproof paper.

Anise (Pimpinella Anisum, Linn.),

Anise is an annual herb of the Umbelliferæ family. It is a native of southwestern

Asia, northern Africa and south-eastern Europe, where it has been introduced

into Germany, and to some extent into other temperate regions of both

hemispheres, but seems not to be known anywhere in the wild state or as an

escape from gardens. To judge from its mention in the Scriptures (Matthew xxiii,

23), it was highly valued as a cultivated crop not only in Palestine, but elsewhere

in the East. Many Greek and Roman authors, especially Dioscorides,

Theophrastus, Pliny and Paladius, wrote of its cultivation and uses.

From their time to the present, Anise seems to have enjoyed general popularity.

In the ninth century, Charlemagne commanded that it be grown upon the

imperial farms; in the thirteenth, Albertus Magnus speaks highly of it; and since

then many agricultural writers have devoted attention to it.

Description. Its roots are white, spindle-shaped and rather fibrous; its stems

about 18 inches tall, branchy, erect, slender, cylindrical; its root leaves lobed

somewhat like those of celery; its stem leaves more and more finely cut toward

the upper part of the stem, near the top of which they resemble fennel leaves in

their finely divided segments; its flowers yellowish white, small, rather large, in

loose umbels consisting of many umbellets; its fruits ("seeds") greenish-gray,

small, ovoid or oblong in outline, longitudinally furrowed and ridged on the

convex side are very aromatic, sweetish and pleasantly piquant.


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Cultivation. The seeds, which should be as fresh as possible, never more than two

years old, should be sown in a permanent position in the garden as soon as the

weather becomes settled in early spring. They should be planted ½ inch deep,

about ½ inch in drills 15 or 18 inches apart. The plants should be thinned when

they are about 2 inches tall. The plants, which do not transplant readily, thrive

best in well-drained, light, rich, rather dry, loamy soils well exposed to the sun. In

about four months from the sowing of the seed, and in about one month from the

appearance of the flowers, the plants may be pulled, or preferably cut, for drying.

Uses. Anise has a fragrance that is similar to liquorice and has culinary and

medicinal uses. The leaves may be used as a food garnish, whilst the seeds are

commonly used for flavoring condiments such as curry powders and other food

products.

For medicinal uses the crushed seeds of anise can be made into an infusion to

help digestion and reduce flatulence. The essential oil of anise acts as a

decongestant and is often found in cough syrups for its antimicrobial properties.

Balm (Melissa officinalis, Linn.)

Balm is a perennial herb of the Labiatæ family. The popular name is a contraction

of balsam, the plant having formerly been considered a specific for a host of

ailments.

Balm is a native of southern Europe, where it was cultivated as a source of honey

and as a sweet herb more than 2,000 years ago. It is frequently mentioned in


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Greek and Latin poetry and prose. Because of its use for anointing, Shakespeare

referred to it in the glorious lines (King Richard II., act iii, scene 2):

"Not all the water in the rough, rude sea

Can wash the balm from an anointed king."

It is found as a garden plant in many temperate climates throughout the world,

There is a variegated variety but it is rarely grown.

Description. The roots are small and fibrous; the stems, about 18 inches tall, very

numerous, erect or spreading, square; the leaves, green (except as mentioned),

broadly ovate with toothed margins, opposite, rather succulent, highly scented;

the flowers, few, whitish, or purplish, in small, loose, axillary, one-sided clusters

borne from midsummer until late autumn; the seeds very small—more than

50,000 to the ounce.

Cultivation. Balm is readily propagated by means of divisions, layers, cuttings, and

by its seeds, which germinate fairly well even when four years old. Owing to its

small size, the seed should be planted in a seed tray or hotbed, where all

conditions can be controlled. The soil should be made very fine and friable, the

thinly scattered seeds merely pressed upon the surface with a block and water

applied preferably through the bottom of the seed tray which may be set in a

shallow dish of water until the surface of the soil starts to appear moist.

When an inch tall the seedlings should be pricked out 2 inches apart into other

pots until they are about 4 inches tall. They can then be planted in the garden in

rows about 18 inches apart. Cultivation throughout the season only requires the

removal of dead parts and care to prevent the plants from spreading unduly.

Preferably the soil should be poor, rather dry and in a sunny but not excessively

hot location. The foliage of seedling plants or plants newly spring-set should be

ready for use by midsummer




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Uses. The foliage is widely used for flavoring soups, stews, sauces, and dressings,

and, when fresh, to a small extent with salads. Lemon balm is delicious when used

in the making of fresh lemonade for a refreshing summer drink.

Otto or oil of balm, obtained by aqueous distillation from the "hay," is a pale

yellow, essential and volatile oil highly prized in perfumery for its lemon-like odor.

Lemon Balm has anti-viral properties and therefore good for treating flu, fevers,

cold sores and other viruses. As a tranquilizer it can help calm the nervous system

and is reputed to help lower blood pressure. It is a gentle herb that can also treat

children and babies for such conditions as colic.

Basil (Ocymum basilicum, Linn.)

Basil is an annual herb of the Labiatæ family. The herb has historically been used

in royal feast. The generic name is derived from Oza, a Greek word signifying

odor.

Basil is a native of tropical Asia, where for many centuries, especially in India, it

has been a highly esteemed condiment. The herb was introduced into England

around 1548 and seems to have grown rapidly in popularity. During the reigns of

Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth I, farmers grew basil in pots and presented

them with compliments to their landladies when they made visits. However, Basil

did not make its way to America or Australia until much later.

Sacred basil (O. sanctum), an oriental species, is cultivated near temples in India

and its odoriferous oil extracted for religious uses. Formerly the common species

was considered sacred by the Brahmins who used it especially in honor of Vishnu

and in funeral rites. An African species, O. fruticosum, was highly valued at the

Cape of Good Hope for its perfume.


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Description. Basil has small fibrous roots that produce stems standing about 1

foot in height. They are very branching and leafy. The leaves are green, except for

the purple variety, with an ovate pointy shape and highly fragrant. The little white

flowers which appear in midsummer are racemed in leafy whorls, followed by

small black fruits, popularly called seeds. Their vitality of the seeds lasts about

eight years.

Like most of the other culinary herbs, basil has varied little in several centuries.

Purple basil has lilac flowers, and when grown in the sun also purple leaf stems

and young branches. Lettuce-leaved basil has large, pale-green blistered and

wrinkled leaves like those of lettuce. Its closely set clusters of flowers appear

somewhat late. The leaves are larger and fewer than in the common variety.

The dwarf species is more compact, branching and dainty than the common

species. It has three varieties; one with deep violet foliage and stems and lilac

white flowers, and two with green leaves, one very dense and compact.

East Indian, or Tree Basil (O. gratissimum, Linn.), a well-known species in the

Orient, seems to have a substitute in O. suave, also known by the same popular

name. It is an upright, branching annual, which forms a pyramidal bush about 20

inches tall and often 15 inches in diameter. It favors very warm situations and

tropical countries.

Cultivation. Basil is propagated by seeds. Because these are very small, they are

best sown in seed trays under glass, covered lightly with finely sifted soil and

moistened by standing in a shallow pan of water until the surface shows a wet

spot. When the seedlings are about an inch tall, they should be pricked out and

replanted so that they are 2 inches apart. They are large enough to be planted in

the garden when they have reached 3” in height and should then be planted in

rows 15 to 18 inches apart.

The first harvesting of foliage should start by midsummer when the plants start to

blossom. At which stage they can be cut to within a few inches of the ground. The


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stumps will then develop a second and even a third crop if care is taken to keep

the surface clean and open.

A little dressing of quickly available fertilizer applied at this time is helpful. For

seed some of the best plants should be left uncut. The seed should ripen by mid-

autumn.

For winter use plants may be transplanted from the garden, or seedlings started

in September. The seeds should be sown two to the inch and the seedlings

transplanted to pots or boxes. A handy pot is the 4-inch standard; this is large

enough for one plant. In herb beds the plants should be 5 or 6 inches apart each

way.

Uses. Basil is a popular herb with fragrant leaves that are commonly used in a

wide range of recipes. It is used to enhance Indian curries and often found in

Mediterranean dishes like pasta to complement cheese and tomato based dishes.

A golden yellow essential oil, which reddens with age, is extracted from the leaves

and has been used in perfumery.

As a medicinal herb, basil is mainly used for its digestive and anti-gas properties.

Herbalists also recommend it for stomach cramps, vomiting and constipation.




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Borage (Borago officinalis, Linn.)

Borage is a coarse, hardy, annual herb of the Boraginaceæ family. Its popular

name, derived from the generic, is supposed by some to have come from a

corruption of cor, the heart, and ago, to affect, because of its former use as a

cordial or heart-fortifying medicine.

No longer used as a medicine, the herb is believed to have originated from Aleppo

in Northern Syria but can now be found in many part of the world.

Description. borage has a spreading habit and grows to around 20 inches in

height. Its oval or oblong-lanceolate leaves and other green parts are covered

with whitish, rather prickly hairs. The flowers, which are a vivid blue colour are

loosely racemed at the extremities of the branches and main stems.

The seeds are rather large, oblong, slightly curved, and with a ridged and streaked

grayish-brown appearance. They retain their vitality for about eight years.

Cultivation. No plant is more easily grown. The seed need only be dropped and

covered in any soil, from poor to rich, and the plants will grow like weeds – albeit

very pretty ones. Borage seems to prefer rather light, dry soils, waste places and

steep banks.

Uses. These days the herb is commonly used as a decorative garnish for salads

and summer drinks. Its highly vivid blue color attracts bees into the garden which

make it a useful plant to have in any garden, where pollination of certain plants is

needed.


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As a medicinal tea, borage is used to reduce fevers and bronchitis symptoms. The

herb is rich in essential fatty acids that are important for conditions like arthritis

and eczema and is also rich in choline – important in fat metabolism.

Caraway (Carum carui, Linn.)

Caraway is a bi-ennial or annual herb of the Umbelliferæ family. The plant is

believed to have originated from Caria in Asia Minor – hence its similar name –

although there are historical references to it being grown in Morocco during the

twelfth century and used as a spice in England during the 14th. It is now a herb

widely used throughout the world.

Description. The fleshy root, about ½ inch in diameter, is yellowish externally,

whitish within, and has a slight carroty taste. From it a rosette of finely pinnated

leaves develops and later the sparsely leaved, branching flower stem which rises

from 18 to 30 inches. During early summer umbels of little white flowers are

formed and followed by oblong, pointed and somewhat curved, light brown

aromatic fruits. These retain their germinating power for about three years.

Cultivation. Caraway can be sown during May or early June and is a quick

maturing plant that can be cultivated easily and harvested about 2 months after

sowing.

The herb is cultivated primarily for its seed that is used for cooking. The seed

stems are separated from the plant and spread on sheets to dry for a few days

and then beaten with a light flail to release the seeds. After threshing, the seed

must be spread thinly and turned daily until the last vestige of moisture has

evaporated.


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Uses. Occasionally the leaves and young shoots are eaten either cooked or as an

ingredient in salads. The roots, too, have been esteemed in some countries,

although the seeds are the important part.

Caraway seeds are commonly used to decorate bread, cookies and cakes. The

colorless or pale yellow essential oil distilled with water from the seeds can be

used in the manufacture of toilet articles, such as perfumery, and especially

soaps.

The seeds of Caraway are also helpful in strengthening the functions of the

digestive system. They help to relieve flatulence and useful in the treatment of

colic. The essential oil is used orally in overcoming bad breath.

Catnip or cat mint (Nepeta cataria, Linn.)

A perennial herb of the Labiatæ family. Catnip gains its name from the attraction

the plant has for cats. They not only eat it, but rub themselves upon it purring

with delight. Like several of its relatives catnip is a well-known weed.

Description. Its erect, square, branching stems, from 18 to 36 inches tall, bear

notched oval or heart shaped leaves. During late summer terminal clusters of

white flowers in small heads appear. The fruits are small, brown, ovoid, smooth

and with three clearly defined angles.

Cultivation. Catnip will grow on any fairly dry soil and can be sown straight into

the ground until large enough to thin out. A gap of 18 – 24 inches should be left

between each plant.


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Uses. The herbs most important use is to attract bees and butterflies into the

garden. It is commonly used in its dried form as a filling for cats’ toys.

The active ingredient in catnip is an essential oil called Nepetalactone that brings

about a mild hallucinogenic effect in cats. In humans, the herb has a sedative

effect and can be infused and made into a tea. Catnip is a useful herb for

repelling mosquitoes and has been known to repel cockroaches.

Chervil (Scandix Cerefolium, Linn.)

Chervil is native to Eastern Europe and was used by the Romans who brought it to

other countries. The herb was previously called “myrrhis” because its fragrance

and flavour bear similarities to the resin Myrrh – known as being one of the gifts

brought to the baby Jesus. For this reason, Chervil is traditionally made into a

soup for Easter celebrations in some parts of Europe.

Description. Chervil has stems about 18 inches tall and bears leaves composed of

oval, much-cut leaflets. The small white flowers, borne in umbels, are followed by

long, pointed, black seeds with a conspicuous furrow from end to end.

Cultivation. These seeds, which retain their vitality for about three years can be

sown straight into the ground about eight weeks before a crop is required. Its

cultivation is very similar to that of parsley.

The delicate looking herb can be grown in any soil or situation although it prefers

warm locations without too much direct heat that can wilt the plant

Uses. The leaves, which are highly aromatic, are used for seasoning and work

well for fish recipes and salads. Chervil is rarely used alone, although it is the


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chief ingredient in what the French call fines herbes - a mixture of herbs that are

used in a host of culinary recipes.

The herb works well with egg dishes, cream cheese and salads. The best variety

is the Curled, which, though it has the same flavor as the plain, is a prettier

garnish.

Chervil’s medicinal properties are known for its diuretic action which can help

with symptoms of high blood pressure. Historically, it has been used as a Spring

tonic to rejuvenate the body after a long winter.

The herb can also be infused and made into an eye wash to soothe tired eyes.

Chives (Allium Schœnoprasum, Linn.)

Chives are a bulbous, onion-like perennial belonging to the Liliaceæ family. They

are native to both Europe and Asia and have a history going back to China in 3000

BC.

It is believed that the explorer Marco Polo may have brought the herb back from

China to Europe although there is no great evidence for their use until the 16th

century when they start to be used in herb gardens and recipes.


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Description. The plants form thick tufts of abundant, hollow, grasslike leaves from

their little oval bulbs and mat of fibrous roots. The short flower stems bear

terminal clusters of generally sterile flowers.

Cultivation. Chives are propagated by planting the individual bulbs or by division

of clumps in early spring. The herbs can be planted in flower borders as an edging

as their compact growth and dainty flowers make them ideal for such a location.

Uses. Strictly speaking, chives do not belong with the herbs, but their leaves are

so frequently used instead of onions for flavoring salads, stews and other dishes,

and reference has been so often made to them in these pages, that a brief

description has been included. For market the clumps are cut in squares and the

whole plant sold. Treated in this way the greengrocers can keep them in good

condition by watering until sold. For use the leaves are cut with shears close to

the ground. If allowed to stand in the garden, cuttings may be made at intervals

of two or three weeks all through the season.

Medicinally, Chives have similar characteristics to garlic in that they help

stimulate the body’s digestion of fat and may help to lower blood cholesterol

levels. The herb is a good source of vitamin C, folic acid, vitamin A, calcium and

iron.

The sulphurous compounds in chives also act as natural expectorants which

makes them a useful herb for the prevention and treatment of colds and catarrhal

symptoms.




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Coriander (Coriandrum sativum, Linn.)

Coriander is a hardy annual herb of the Umbelliferæ family. Its origins are

unknown but it has been cultivated since ancient times. Coriander seeds have

been found in Egyptian tombs of the 21st dynasty. Prior to the Norman conquest

in 1066, the plant was well known in Great Britain, probably having been taken

there by the early Roman conquerors. Before 1670 it was introduced into

Massachusetts.

During this long period of cultivation there seems to be no record or even

indication of varieties. In many temperate and tropical countries it has become a

frequent weed in cultivated fields.

Coriander also goes by the name of Dhania in India and is called Cilantro in the

USA. The herb is also known as Chinese parsley.

Description. The Coriander’s branching stems rise to heights of 2 to 2½ feet.

Toward their summits they bear much divided leaves, with linear segments and

umbels of small whitish flowers. These are followed by pairs of united,

hemispherical, brownish-yellow, deeply furrowed "seeds," about the size of a

sweet pea seed. The seeds retain their vitality for five or six years.

Cultivation. Coriander, is an easy plant to cultivate and does best in a rather light,

warm, friable soil. The seeds should be sown in a seed tray or pot with a potting


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mix made from a combination of compost and either Perlite or sand to aerate and

improve drainage plus some Vermiculite to keep the soil moist.

Before sowing the seed moisten the soil with water and then sow the seeds in

rows about 15 inches apart. Cover the seeds with a light covering of your mixed

potting soil and then mist with water from a spray.

Place the seed tray in a warm location with plenty of natural light. The seeds

should start to germinate in 7-10 after which the seedlings should be thinned to

6-8 inches apart.

Since the plants run to seed quickly, they must be watched and cut early to

prevent loss and consequent seeding of the ground.

Harvest the plant weekly to keep the leaves coming through before they start

producing flowers and seeds. Repeated sowing of seeds can be done on a regular

basis to have a continuous supply of the herb.

Uses. A commonly used herb in Eastern cooking – especially Indian and Thai,

coriander has grown in popularity with the increasing interest in Eastern food. In

cooking both the seeds (whole and powdered) and the fresh leaves can be used.

Nutritionally, Coriander contains a powerful source of vitamins A, C and K plus

thiamine, riboflavin, folic acid and the minerals calcium, iron, magnesium,

potassium and some zinc in smaller quantities.

The coriander seeds are used in the treatment of digestive disorders such as

nausea, indigestion and colitis.

Coriander is also one of number of herbs that have a diuretic action that can help

stimulate the kidneys. It is also believed to help stimulate the memory.




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Cumin (Cuminum Cyminum, Linn.)

Cumin is a low-growing annual herb with its origins in the middle eastern and

eastern regions (See Isaiah xviii, 25-27 and Matthew xxiii, 23.) During the middle

ages it was in very common use. All the old herbals of the sixteenth and the

seventeenth centuries figure and describe and extol it.

Description. The plant is very diminutive, rarely exceeding a height of 6 inches. Its

stems, which branch freely from the base, bear mere linear leaves and small lilac

flowers, in little umbels of 10 to 20 blossoms each. The six-ribbed, elongated

"seeds" resemble caraway seeds, but are straighter, lighter and larger. They are,

like the double seeds of coriander, convex on one side and concave on the other.

They bear long hairs, which fold up when the seed is dry.

After the seed has been kept for two years it begins to lose its germinating power,

but will sprout reasonably well when three years old.

Culture. Cumin seeds can be sown straight into the ground in rows about 15

inches apart and as soon as the ground becomes warm. Cultivation requires a

long, hot summer of 3–4 months, with daytime temperatures around 30 °C (86

°F); it is drought-tolerant and mostly grown in Mediterranean climates. Cumin is

grown from seed and sown in the Spring. It needs a fertile, well-drained soil. No

further attention is needed except for keeping down the weeds The herb plants

mature in about two months and the stems can then be cut and dried

Uses. Cumin has a distinctively warm and spicy aroma that is used extensively in

many countries – such as India, Pakistan, North Africa and the Middle East. It is

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mediterranean_climate


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one of the main ingredients in many curry powders and can be used in its seed

form or ground into a powder.

Cumin has excellent properties for digestion. The herb contains organic

compounds called Cuminaldehyde and Thymol that help with the biochemical

secretions necessary for good digestion. It is used for the treatment of flatulence,

indigestion, nausea, diarrhea, morning sickness and dyspepsia.

Due to Cumin’s antiseptic properties it can also be helpful for the relief of

symptoms of the common cold and for the treatment of sore throats. It is also

believed to be a powerful liver and kidney herb that can help boost the immunity

system.

Dill (Anethum graveolens, Linn.)

Dill is a hardy annual from the Mediterranean and the Black Sea regions. It has a

pretty feathery appearance that is similar to Fennel. It has been grown since

ancient times.

Description. Dill grows to around 2 to 2½ feet in height. The smooth, hollow,

branching stems bear very threadlike leaves and in midsummer compound

umbels with numerous yellow flowers, whose small petals are rolled inward. Very

flat, pungent, bitter seeds are freely produced, and unless gathered early are sure

to stock the garden with volunteer seedlings for the following year. Under fair

storage conditions, the seeds continue viable for three years.


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Cultivation. Dill seed may be sown in early spring, preferably in a warm sandy soil,

where the plants are to remain. Any well-drained soil will do. Sow the seeds in

rows approximately 1 foot apart and scatter the seeds thinly before covering

them with a thin layer of soil.

At all times the plants must be kept free from weeds and the soil loose and open.

When the seedlings are three or four weeks old they should be thinned to 9 – 12

inches apart. Around mid summer when the seed is ripe, it should be gathered

with the least possible shaking and handling, so as to prevent loss.

Uses. Dill is commonly used when making pickles and flavouring vinegar. Dill

vinegar can be made by soaking some seeds in good quality vinegar for a few days

before using.

The herb can also be used to flavour dips, vegetables and breads. It is used in the

preparation of smoked salmon for the Scandinavian dish Gravlax.

The seed has antispasmodic qualities and is used to make dill tea or water for the

treatment of indigestion, hiccups and flatulence. It is commonly used by parents

for treating babies and young children for colic. As an infusion it can be used to

stimulate milk production in nursing mothers.

Fennel (Fœniculum officinale, All.)

Fennel is a biennial or perennial herb, generally considered a native of southern

Europe. The old Latin name Fœniculum is derived from the word fœnum meaning

hay.


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The plant was cultivated by the ancient Romans for its aromatic fruits and

succulent, edible shoots. Whether cultivated in northern Europe at that time is

not certain, but it is frequently mentioned in Anglo-Saxon cookery prior to the

Norman conquest. Charlemagne ordered its culture upon the imperial farms.

Fennel can be found growing wild in many parts of the world, upon dry soils near

the sea coast and upon river banks.

Description. Common garden or long, sweet fennel is distinguished from its wild

or better relative (F. vulgare) by having much stouter, taller (5 to 6 feet) tubular

and larger stems, less divided, more glaucous leaves. The seeds are double the

size of the wild fennel seeds, ¼ or ½ inch long. They are convex on one side, flat

on the other, and are marked by five yellowish ribs.

Cultivation. The herb seems to be partial to limestone soils, such as the chalky

lands of England and the shelly formation of Bermuda. However, the plants will

flourish in almost any well-drained soil and are not particular about exposure.

The seed is usually sown annually and can be sown directly into the ground where

the plants are to remain. When the plants are about 3 inches tall they should be

transplanted to allow for space to grow leaving approx 15 or 18 inches between

other plants. Some growers sow in late summer and in autumn so as to have early

crops the following season. The plants are fairly robust and will grow in cold but

not freezing weather.

Uses. Fennel is considered indispensable in French and Italian cookery. It is a

common ingredient in Italian sausage. The young plants and the tender leaves are

often used for garnishes and to add flavor to salads.

Nutritionally, fennel is rich in Iron and an amino acid called Histidine. Together

these help in the production of haemoglobin and in the treatment of anemia.

Fennel is widely known for its anti flatulent properties due to its carminative

properties of Aspartic acid found in the herb. In India, the seeds are commonly


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chewed after a meal to help with digestion. Fennel seeds can also act as a

laxative due to its roughage assisting in the treatment of constipation.

The herb can also be used for the treatment of respiratory and menstrual

disorders.

Fennel is commonly found as an ingredient in toothpaste and mouthwash as it is

beneficial as a detoxifier and for the rejuvenation of tissues, due to the presence

of the amino acid Arginine. In this respect the herb is also used in the treatment

of macular degeneration of the eyes .

Lavender, (Lavendula vera, D. C.; L. Angustifolia, Moench.; L. spica, Linn.)

Lavender is a half-hardy perennial with its origins in southern Europe. Its name is

derived from the Latin word Lavo, to wash due to its historical use a washing

agent with healing and cosmetic properties.

The use of lavender can be traced back as far as ancient Egypt where it was used

for embalming and cosmetics.

Ancient Romans recognized lavender for its healing and antiseptic qualities as

well as its ability to deter insects.

Dioscorides, a Greek military physician during the time of the Roman Emperor

Nero, wrote about lavender in his De Meteria Medica and observed that the herb

could be used to clean wounds and burns and treat skin ailments. Roman soldiers

took lavender on campaigns to dress war wounds.




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The use of Lavender declined during the Dark Ages when it was mainly used by

the monks but experienced a renaissance in Tudor England when it started to be

grown in domestic gardens. The dried flower heads were sewn into bags to

freshen clothes and also mixed with beeswax to make furniture polish.

Subsequent European Queens have also favoured lavender: Elizabeth I used it in

tea to treat her frequent migraines and Queen Victoria’s court used it abundantly

for washing walls, polishing furniture, repelling insects and freshening rooms with

potpourri. Victorian ladies commonly wore small bags filled with lavender to

attract their suitors.

Provence is now the world’s largest lavender producing region.

Description. The plant forms a compact clump 2 to 2½ feet tall and has numerous

erect stems. These bear small, linear gray leaves, above which the slender,

square, flower stems arise. The small violet-blue flowers are arranged in a short,

terminal spike, and are followed by little brown, oblong, shiny seeds, with white

dots at the ends, attached to the plant. The seeds remain viable for about five

years.

Cultivation. Lavender succeeds best on light, limy or chalky soil, but will do well in

any good loam. In gardens it is commonly used as an edging for flower beds, and

is most frequently propagated by division or cuttings.

In cold winters the plants must either be protected or removed to a cold frame or

greenhouse. Lavender thrives in a sunny situation and is most fragrant on poor

soil. Rich soil makes the plant larger but the flowers poorer in perfume.

Uses. The lavender flowers can be used as a herb tea for relaxation purposes and

as a flavour enhancement to salads, dressings, jams and even ice cream, although

its chief use is in perfumery.

The flower stems are cut in August and distilled to make a thin, pale yellow and

fragrant oil. Two to four year old plants generally yield the greatest amount of oil

with older ones becoming less vigorous.


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The essential oil continues to be used for a wide range of therapeutic and medicinal purposes.

These include the treatment of skin ailment and wounds; help reduce stress and exhaustion;

induce sleep and bring about a greater sense of well being. It has also been found helpful as a

deterrent for fleas and lice.

Marigold (Calendula officinalis, Linn.)

The Marigold is an annual herb of the Compositæ family and is native to southern

Europe. Its Latin name, Calendula is suggestive of its habit of flowering through

many months of the calendar.

The marigold is a favorite flowering plant, especially in country gardens because

of its sunny colourful appearance – and also because it is so easy to grow. The

earliest use of marigolds seems to originate with the Aztecs who attributed

magical and medicinal properties to them. Marigolds then found their way to

Europe due to the Spanish explorers and also to Mexico and Latin America where

they are used to decorate altars and graves. They are also used in religious hindu

ceremonies.

Another type of Marigold belongs to the Tagetes family. These are commonly

seen in garden centers called African marigolds and French marigolds. Whilst

they do not have the same type of healing properties as the Calendula family they

are also effective in repelling garden pests.


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Description. The marigold has short stems, about 12 inches tall that branch near

their base with showy yellow or orange flowers in heads.

The curved, gray seeds, which are rough, wrinkled and somewhat spiny, retain

their germinating power for about three years.

Cultivation. Marigolds prefer a poor soil with a light and sandy environment and a

sunny exposure. The seeds can be sown directly into the ground and the

seedlings thinned and transplanted when they are about 2 inches tall.

Alternatively the seeds can be started in a hotbed during March or April and the

seedlings pricked out and potted 2 inches apart. When the weather becomes

settled they can then be planted out 12-15 inches apart.

Uses. In cooking, marigolds are used primarily for their decorative value – to add

vibrancy to salads and other recipes. The marigold also possesses healing

qualities and can be made into a tea that is reported to ease sore throats.

In its medicinal capacity it is known as Calendula and extensively used in

cosmetics and skin care products to help soothe damaged skin.

Marjoram

Two species of marjoram grown for culinary purposes are members of the

Labiatæ or mint family. These are: pot or perennial marjoram (Origanum vulgare,

Linn.) and sweet or annual marjoram (O. Marjorana). Both plants are perennials,


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but sweet marjoram, because of its liability to be killed by frost, is commonly

cultivated in cold countries as an annual.

Perennial marjoram that is often known by the name Oregano, is a native of

Europe that is often found growing wild. The perennial species seems to have had

the longer association with civilization.

Description. Perennial marjoram rises even 2 feet high, in branchy clumps, bears

numerous short-stemmed, ovate leaves about 1 inch long, and terminal clusters

or short spikes of little, pale lilac or pink blossoms and purple bracts. The oval,

brown seeds are very minute.

Sweet (Annual) marjoram is much more erect, more bush-like, has smaller,

narrower leaves, whiter flowers, green bracts and larger, but lighter seeds.

Cultivation. Once established, Perennial marjoram can be be readily propagated

by cuttings, division or layers, but it is so easy to grow from seed that this method

is mainly used. There is little danger of its becoming a weed, because the

seedlings are easily destroyed while small. The seed should be sown during March

or April with a light coating of soil and protected from heavy downpours of rain.

When the plants are 2 or 3 inches tall they can be transplanted to a permanent

planting area or thinned out and left to remain in the place where they were

sown.

Annual marjoram is managed in the same kind of way but as the plant is tender,

fresh sowings must be made annually. Annual marjoram is a quick-growing

plant—so quick, in fact, that leaves may be secured within six or eight weeks of

sowing. The flowers appear in 10 to 12 weeks, and the seed ripens soon after.

Uses. The leaves and flowers have a pleasant fragrance and can be used for the

seasoning of soups, stews, salad dressings and sauces. It is particularly good

when used to flavour chicken as well as for complementing both egg and tomato

based dishes.


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Sweet marjoram is also used for its medicinal applications of which there are

many: Historically it has been used to help treat conditions such as hay fever,

sinus congestion, indigestion, asthma, stomach pain, headache, dizziness,

colds, coughs, and nervous disorders. The essential oil can be diluted to make

a massage oil to ease rheumatism and muscular aches and pains. Plus, due to its

mild antioxidant and anti fungal properties the plant can be infused to made a

natural mouthwash or gargle.

Mint (Mentha viridis, Linn.)

A member of the Labiatæ family, the mint plant is a very hardy perennial that

spreads rapidly and can soon overwhelm nearby plants. There are literally

hundreds of types of mint that include peppermint, spearmint, applemint,

chocolate mint – as well as the previously mentioned catmint. Originating from

the Mediterranean countries, its generic name is derived from the mythological

origin ascribed to it. Poets declared that Proserpine became jealous of Cocytus's

daughter, Minthe, whom she transformed into the plant. Mint has been so

universally esteemed that it is found wild in nearly all countries.

Description. Creeping rootstocks produce stems with lance shaped tooth edge

leaves rising to a height of about 2 feet. The leaves may be green or purple

depending upon the variety. Small pink or lilac flowers are followed by minute,

roundish brown seeds.

Cultivation. Mint is easily propagated by means of cuttings, offsets and division in

spring. Because of their propensity to spread and over-run an area they should be


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planted either in a separate pot or in a corner of the garden where there is no

danger of them becoming a nuisance to other plants. Mint will grow anywhere

but does best in a moist, rich loam and partial shade.

Uses. Mint is widely used in both its fresh and dried state for flavouring a wide

range of dishes. In England and America the herb has traditionally been used for

making mint sauce or mint jelly, to accompany roast lamb.

Because of its many varieties it can be used for savoury dishes, desserts,

confectionery and in refreshing summer drinks. As a herb tea it can help reduce

colic and feelings of nausea.

The essential oil Peppermint when diluted with a base oil, like almond oil, can be helpful

in reducing the pain of arthritis and chronic joint pain

Parsley (Carum Petroselinum, Linn.)

A hardy biennial herb of the Umbelliferæ family, Parsley has been cultivated for at

least 2,000 years. With its origins in the Mediterranean region, Parsley’s name is

derived from the Greek word “petros” meaning stone or rock, since the herb’s

natural habitat is growing in rocky terrain.

The writings of the old herbalists of the 15th century show that in their times it

had already developed several well-defined forms and numerous varieties, always

a sure sign that a plant is popular. Throughout the world today it is

unquestionably one of the most widely grown of all garden herbs, and has the


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largest number of varieties. In moist, moderately cool climates, it may be found

wild as a weed, but nowhere has it become a pest.

Description. There are many different varieties of parsley that produce plain,

curled or fern like leaves. The fruits or "seeds" are light brown or gray, convex on

one side and flat on the other two, the convex side marked with fine ribs. They

retain their germinating power for three years.

Cultivation. Parsley is so easily grown that no garden, and indeed no household,

need be without it. It will thrive in any ordinary soil and will do well in a window

box with only a moderate amount of light or sunshine. Gardeners often grow it

beneath benches in greenhouses, where it gets only small amounts of light. No

one need hesitate to plant it.

The seed is very slow in germinating, often requiring four to six weeks unless

soaked before sowing. A full day's soaking in tepid water is none too long to wake

them up.

It is essential that parsley be sown very early in order to germinate at all. If sown

late, it may not sprout and fail completely. When sown in cold frames or beds for

transplanting, the rows need only be 3 or 4 inches apart. The parsley seedlings

should be thinned out and divided into pots or planted in the ground before they

start to crowd each other out.

If protected from frost, the plants will yield all winter. They can be easily

transplanted into cold frames or moved to a warm, sheltered spot.

Parsley may be sown as an edging for flower beds and borders. For such purpose

it is best to sow the seed thickly during late October or November in double rows

close together, say 3 or 4 inches. Sown at that time, the plants may be expected

to appear earlier than if spring sown and form a thick ribbon of herbs. This

should remain green not only during the growing season, but well into late Fall –

at which stage it is advisable to dig them up and re sow for the following year.


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For window culture, all that is needed is a box filled with rich soil. A sunny window

is best, but any window will do. If the leaves look yellow at any time, they may

need water or a little manure water.

Parsley seed ripens very irregularly with some umbels being ready to cut from one

to three weeks earlier than others. This quality of the plant may be bred out by

keeping the earliest maturing seed separate from the later maturing and choosing

this for producing subsequent seed crops.

In ordinary seed production the heads are cut when the bulk of the seed is brown

or at least dark colored. The stalks are cut carefully, to avoid shattering the seed

off. They are laid upon sheets of paper and threshed very lightly, at once, to

remove only the ripest seed. Then the stalks are spread thinly on sheets and

placed in the sun or a warm room for two days and threshed again. At that time

all seed ripe enough to germinate will fall off.

Uses. Although commonly used as a garnish, parsley has many other benefits. It

blends well with other herbs and can be used in a variety of savoury dishes. The

herb contains high levels of nutrients and is a good source of vitamin C – even

more than oranges – and is also high in Vitamin A, Calcium and Iron.

Historically, Parsley has been used for treating bladder infections and even today

people find it helpful for reducing symptoms of cystitis – partly due to its ability to

act as a natural diuretic and flush out infections. Chewing fresh parsley also

makes an excellent breath freshener.




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Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis, Linn.)

Rosemary is one of the Labiatae family and commonly found growing in the wild

along sea coasts – its name being derived from the Latin word “ros” meaning dew

and “marinus” for ocean.

It was cultivated by the Spaniards in the 13th century, and from the 15th to the

18th century was popular as a condiment with salt meats. It continues to be a

popular herb for use in cooking lamb and other meats.

Description. The plant is a half-hardy evergreen, 2 feet or more tall. The erect,

branching, woody stems bear a profusion of little obtuse, linear leaves, green

above and hoary white beneath. On their upper parts they bear pale blue, axillary

flowers in leafy clusters. The light-brown seeds, white where they were attached

to the plant, will germinate even when four years old.

Cultivation. Rosemary is easily propagated by means of cuttings, root division and

layers in early spring, but is most frequently multiplied by seed. It does best in

rather poor, light soil, especially if limy. Cultivation consists in keeping the soil

loose and open and free from weeds. The plants will continue to thrive for years

in moderate climates.

For indoor use the plants can be kept small by pruning regularly.

Uses. For culinary use the tender leaves and stems and the flowers are used for

flavoring roast meats and stews, fish and meat sauces.


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Rosemary is commonly used in the production of hair care products. The fresh

herbs can be infused in hot water for an hour or so and used when washing hair

to prevent dandruff, increase shine and stimulate hair growth.

Medicinally it has many properties and herbalists us it for a wide range of

physiological and emotional conditions

Sage (Salvia officinalis, Linn.)

Sage is a perennial plant of the Labiatæ family, found naturally on dry, calcareous

hills in southern Europe, and northern Africa. In ancient times, it was one of the

most highly esteemed of all plants because of its reputed medicinal properties. An

old adage reads, "How can a man die in whose garden sage is growing?" The

Latin name of Salvia is derived from salvus, meaning to be safe, or salveo, to be in

good health or to heal.

The name sage, meaning wisdom, appears to have had a different origin, but as

the plant was reputed to strengthen the memory, there seems to be ground for

believing that those who ate the plant would be wise.

Description. Sage plants come in a number of varieties with green, purple or

variegated leaves. The usually bluish-lilac, sometimes pink or white flowers,

borne in the axils of the upper leaves in whorls of three or four, form loose

terminal spikes or clusters.


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Cultivation. Sage does best upon mellow well-drained soil of moderate fertility. It

will tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, especially if they are well-drained and

rich in nitrogen. The herb is easily propagated by division, layers and cuttings.

Sage seed is produced in open cups on slender branches. These grow well above

the leaves and turn black when ripe. The seeds tend to ripen unevenly and

should be picked when they are completely ripe and then dried by laying out on

paper in a warm room.

The seeds should be sown at a rate of two seeds to the inch in seed trays and

covered with approximately ¼” of soil. The seedlings should be thinned out into

pots and re potted as necessary when they grow bigger. Sage plants should be

transplanted when they are large enough to move and set approximately 18

inches apart. They can grow up to 3 feet in diameter, so will need pruning back if

you wish to keep them smaller.

Uses—Sage is a common condiment for Mediterranean dishes, specifically Italian

foods. It is used to enhance many meats and has been traditionally used as an

accompaniment to pork mixed with onion.

The leaves of the Sage plant can be used in combination with other herbs such as

rosemary, thyme and oregano. It has a very strong flavour and should be used

sparingly to prevent it overpowering everything else.

As a medicinal herb, Sage has many qualities. Sage is known to contain natural

oestrogens and is therefore used to treat menstrual problems and menopausal

conditions of “flushing” and “hot sweats”. Sage also acts as a central nervous

system stimulant and as such can be used to improve circulation and in the

treatment of varicose veins.

Since ancient times, Sage has been considered to endow people with eternal

youth. In more recent times scientists have discovered that the herb contains

anti-aging compounds and there is evidence that it can help to improve memory.




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The herb is also used as an antiseptic and antifungal medicine and can ease

symptoms of laryngitis and tonsillitis through infusions of Sage tea.

On an emotional level Sage can help treat symptoms of anxiety and depression.

Savory(Satureia hortensis, Linn.)

The Savory herb belongs to the Labiatae family and has two types: The Summer

Savory and the Winter Savory. They are both indigenous to Mediterranean

countries.

Both summer savory and winter savory are used to flavor food. Summer savory

is an annual needing to be sown each year whereas Winter Savory is an evergreen

perennial.

In ancient times, the Romans used both Summer and Winter Savory for flavoring

foods. The popularity of this herb has continued over centuries and is still used

today – although not as much as some other herbs.

Description. The Summer Savory rarely exceeds 12 inches in height and has

erect, branching, herbaceous stems, with oblong-linear leaves tapering at their

bases. The herb has small pink or white flowers and produces small, brown,

ovoid seeds which retain their viability for about three years.

The Winter Savory has woody, slender, spreading stems that can grow more than

15 inches tall. The stems bear very acute, narrow, linear leaves and pale lilac,

pink, or white flowers in axillary clusters. The brown, rather triangular seeds,

which retain their vitality about three years, are smaller than those of summer

savory.


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Cultivation. Summer Savory can be grown from seed by sowing it in a cold frame

in late March, and then transplanting the plants out into the open during May.

However, the seed can also be sown directly into the ground at a rate of half a

dozen seeds dropped to the inch for a fairly thick sowing. As the seed is small, it

should only be given a light covering of soil, of which ¼ inch is ample.

Winter savory is readily propagated by means of cuttings, layers and division as

well as seeds. The cultivation of Winter Savory is similar to Summer Savory,

except its seed should be sown where the plants are to remain, since the

seedlings do not stand transplanting very well. The seed for Winter Savory is

often sown in late summer when the climate is not severe or where winter

protection is to be given. The plant is fairly hardy on dry soils. When once

established it will live for several years.

Uses. Both summer and winter savory are used in flavoring salads, dressings,

gravies, and sauces used with meats such as veal, pork, duck, and goose.

Tarragon (Artemisia Dracunculus, Linn.)

The Tarragon plant is a fairly hardy, herbaceous and shrubby perennial belonging

to the Compositæ family. A native of southern Russia and Western Asia, it has

been cultivated for scarcely more than 500 years for its leaves and tender shoots.

Tarragon’s name is derived from the French word “estragon” meaning little

dragon because its roots curl round like a dragon’s tail.


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Description. The herb has numerous branching stems, which bear lance-shaped

leaves and white flowers. French tarragon has a superior flavour to the Russian

variety but it cannot be grown from seed since it reverts back to the Russian

tarragon.

Cultivation. Tarragon prefers well-drained soil which is not too high in nutrients.

It will do equally well in full sun or partial shade. If you wish to grow French

Tarragon you will need to propagate it from cuttings or buy a small plant from

your local garden center. However, if you want to grow it from seed then you will

have to grow the Russian variety.

Seeds should be sown around April in pots with around 4 – 5 seeds per pot. The

pots should be covered and kept in a warm, dark place until the seedlings start to

come through – at which stage they can be moved outside but away from bright

sunlight. When the seedlings are 4” high they can be planted into the ground.

The soil should be well drained with compost and sand well dug in. The herbs

should be planted in a position where they will not be moved for two or three

years after which time the plants will start to decline due to their vigorous root

system. At this stage it is better to re-sow seeds or buy more plants from the

garden center.

Uses. The tender shoots and the young leaves of the Tarragon plant are often

used in salads and fish plus steaks and other meats, especially by the French. One

the most popular way it is used is for vinegar. For this purpose, the green parts

are gathered preferably in the morning and after washing are placed in jars and

covered with the best quality vinegar for a few days. The vinegar is then drawn off

as needed.

The leaves may be dried in the usual way if desired. For this purpose they are

gathered in midsummer. A second cutting may be made in late September or

early October. However, dried tarragon has much less flavour than the fresh

leaves as drying removes the essential oils


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Thyme (Thymus vulgaris, Linn.)

Thyme is a very diminutive perennial shrub, belonging to the Labiatæ family. It is

a native of dry, stony places on Mediterranean coast although now grown in

gardens in many parts of the world.

From ancient times it has been popularly grown for culinary purposes. The name

derives from the Greek word “thyo,” or sacrifice, because of its use as incense to

perfume the temples.

With the Romans it was very popular both in cookery and as a means to attract

bees into their gardens for pollination purposes.

Description. There are many varieties of thyme plants. Generally, the ones that

grow upright like the Common Thyme have greater fragrance whereas the

creeping varieties have less fragrance but make attractive additions to rock

gardens, borders and walkways. Creeping varieties grow to a height of 4-6 inches

and upright ones like Common Thyme to 12-16”. Varieties that make welcome

additions to gardens include: English Thyme that grows in circular mounds and

produces small lavender flowers; Woolly and Silver Thyme for their silver grey

coloring, Variegated Thyme for contrast and Lemon Thyme that is used for

enhancing fish and chicken dishes.

Cultivation. Thyme does best in a rather dry, moderately fertile, light soil well

exposed to the sun. Cuttings, layers and divisions may be made, but the popular

way to propagate is by seed. For best results, plant the seed indoors in early


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Spring. Because the seed is very small, it should be sown very shallow or only

pressed upon the surface and then sprinkled with finely sifted soil.

A small seed tray should be used in preference to sowing in the open ground first

with the seeds being sown at the rate of 5 or 6 to the inch.

Thyme will winter well and can be treated like sage. In the coldest climates it may

be mulched with leaves or litter to prevent undue thawing and freezing. In the

spring the plants should be dug, divided and reset in a new situation.

When seed is desired, the ripening tops must be cut frequently, because the

plants mature very unevenly. During damp weather the seed will not separate

easily from the plants.

Uses. Thyme can successfully be used in either its fresh or dried form for flavoring

a wide range of dishes. It complements lamb and tomatoes very well and

combines well with other herbs such as rosemary, marjoram, oregano, parsley

and bay.

Thyme is one of the ingredients of Herbes de Provence, a blend that includes

marjoram, summer savory, lavender and rosemary. A bouquet garni contains

Thyme as one of its ingredients.

Whole sprigs of fresh thyme can be used when roasting meats and stuffing

cavities of chickens but for other dishes the leaves should be pulled off their

woody stems before combining them with other ingredients. The tiny leaves are

easily removed by running the stems through your fingers.

Thyme also has many medicinal properties. It has excellent antiseptic and anti

fungal properties and is prescribed by herbalists for such conditions as laryngitis,

bronchitis and gastro-intestinal problems as well as being useful as an anti-

parasitic for lice, scabies and intestinal worms and for treating athlete’s foot.




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