GrowWhatYouEat,EatWhatYouGrow

GROWWHATYOUEAT,EATWHATYOUGROWCopyright©2014byRandyShoreAllrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanypartbyanymeans—graphic,electronic,ormechanical—withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher,exceptbyareviewer,whomayusebriefexcerptsinareview,orinthecaseofphotocopyinginCanada,alicensefromAccessCopyright.

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LibraryandArchivesCanadaCataloguinginPublication:Shore,Randy,1963–,authorGrowwhatyoueat,eatwhatyougrow:theGreenMan'sguidetoliving&eatingsustainablyallyearround/RandyShore.

Includesindex.Issuedinprintandelectronicformats.ISBN978-1-55152-549-5(epub)1.Vegetablegardening—Canada.2.Kitchengardens—Canada.3.Vegetables—Preservation.4.Cooking(Vegetables).I.Title.

SB323.C3S562014 635'.0971

C2014-905409-2

C2014-905410-6

Contents

Introduction:HOWTOGROWWHATYOUEATANDEATWHATYOUGROW

Spring:PLAN,THENPLANT

TheSoilIsaLivingThingMakeYourOwnCustomFertilizersWhatAreYouGoingtoGrow?GetaHeadStartPreparetheGardenIt’sTimetoPlantActiveandPassiveSlugControlHowtoGrowPotatoes

SPRINGRECIPESFreshHerbChimichurriSalsaVerdePicodeGallo&GuacamoleGarden-StyleWorWontonSoupwithHomemadeWontonsChickpeaSaladwithCilantroPestoHerbedTabboulehRadish&WhiteBeanSaladQuickPickledShallotDressingGoddessoftheRanchDressingChicken&RainbowChardChickenFricasseewithGardenVegetablesBroiledSockeyewithGardenHerbsGardenVarietyLettuceWrapsVealScallopiniwithParsleyCaperSauceTheGreenMan’sMeatloafKangarooMeatballsinRoastedRedPepperSauce

ItalianSausageMeatballsSaagPaneerSautéedChard&OnionsSicilianChardWildRice&GreensRicePilafSpicyBroccoliRabewithPastaRedLentilDalParsleyButterNoodlesTheOriginalRhubarb-BlueberryCrumbleSuperSimplePitaBread

Summer:ASEASONOFEDIBLEDELIGHTS

ToughenUpYourTransplantsCompanionPlantingandNaturalSuccessionHowtoGrowTomatoesHowtoGrowAsparagusATimetoKillEliminateSod&ExpandYourGardenHowtoCurePotatoesforStorageHowtoCureOnionsforStorageHowtoHarvestGarlic

SUMMERRECIPESBasilPestoGarlicScapePestoMashedPeaBruschettaBasilGarlicDipVersatileCauliflowerSoupFreshSofritoTzatzikiCucumberSaladPharoahSaladFarmhouse-StyleSlicedOnionSaladDillPotatoSaladZero-FatDressingFriedHalibutwithTartarSauce

PastawithCherryTomatoTunaSauceFrittata,ThreeWaysBeefEnchiladaswithFreshMexicanTomatoSauceMalaiKoftainTomato-GingerSauceBakedPolentaSweetCornPolentaSofrito-PoachedEggsTapas-StyleFriedPotatoesSeasonedOvenFriesSaladRollswithSpicyPeanutSauceChiangMaiNoodlesSpinach&FetaPenneLinguiniwithCreamyPestoSauceFancyBroccoliTamilTurnipGreensGreenBeanswithShallots&AlmondsJamaicanRice&PeasStrawberry-RhubarbPieSpicyZucchiniSconesQuickFridgeRelishRandy’sAll-PurposeSeasoningFreshTomatoCatsup

Autumn:THECIRCLEOFLIFE

PuttheGardentoBedHowtoGrowLeeksHomeCanningBasics

AUTUMNRECIPESOld-FashionedBread&ButterPicklesClassicDillPicklesOld-FashionedRelishSpicyPickledBeetsEvenEasierPickledBeetsFarm-StylePearSauceGardenHarvestMinestrone

African-StyleButternutSquashSoupRoastedTomatoBasilSoupDarcy’sOnionSoupBakedChicken&Rice(ArrozconPollo)Lamb&SpinachKebabsLambShoulderChopswithCorianderRubAfricanLambShanksHerbedMustardRackofLambGrilledLambwithHerbsFrenchLentilStewwithLambSausagesDarcy’sNewWorldBologneseSauceSpicyMeatballsinGreekTomatoSauceBeef&SpinachCabbageRollsBakedZucchiniRatatouilleAngryPennewithSpicyArrabiataSauceRoastedCauliflowerGreenBeanswithPepitasGrilledAutumnVegetablesBacon&MushroomKaleDuckFatRosemaryPotatoesRoastedGarlicMashedPotatoesCheddarDillBiscuitsFrankShore’sDumplingsParmesanFricosApple-PearStreusel

Winter:ENJOYTHEBOUNTY

ACasefortheBackyardGreenhouseGrowSproutsonYourKitchenCounterHabitsofHealthyPeopleEatPlant-BasedMealsandLikeItEatLess,ButBetter,Meat

WINTERRECIPESRoastedRedPepperHummusHerbedRicottaSpread

HomemadeChickenStockKaleChickpeaSoupMatzohBallSoupCanadianCaldoVerdePeaSoupwithCarrotsBeer-BatteredFishSmokedSalmonChowderChicken&SausageGumboChickenallaCacciatoreTurkeyMeatballsStuffedSpaghettiSquashOssoBucoMoroccanLambwithSquashHomemadeCanadianBaconHomemadePartyPizzasVegetarianZucchiniLasagnaHomemadeRicottaCheeseDarcy’sDonkey-Kickin’Macaroni&CheeseHoppin’JohnSmotheredGreenBeansGreenBeanMushroomBakeParmesanTurnipCroquettesCollardGreenswithRoastedRedPepperSingaporeCurrySaucewithKaleNutFlourWaffles

ChristmasDinnerFragrantTurkeyBrineQuickTurkeyNeckStockThyme-OrangeCompoundButterFarmhouseStuffingRoastTurkeyTurkeyGravyBoxingDaySoup

Index

IntroductionHowtoGrowWhatYouEatandEatWhatYouGrow

Iwantyoutostopandquietyourmind.Turnoffthetelevision,theradio,yoursmartphone,andwhateverelseyouareusingtostayconnectedtoeveryotherhumanbeingontheplanet.Now,biteintoanappleorastrawberryoratomatoandconsiderwhereitcamefrom,howitgottoyou,andwhatittasteslike.

Thisisarevolutionaryactinourculture:Wearen’tsupposedtothinkaboutwherethingscomefromandhowtheyaregrown.Theshelvesofourgrocerystoresarepiledhighwithfruitsandvegetablesfromsomewhere,ready-to-eatfoodsmadebysomeone.Wedon’toftenquestionthesethingsbecauseweareaccustomedtoseeingeveryimaginablefood—inabundance—everydayoftheyear.

Theaveragegrocerystorehasabout40,000differentfoodproductsinstock.Youjusttastedone.Whatdidyouthink?IfitwasatomatoorawinterstrawberryfromCaliforniaorMexico,itprobablydidn’ttastelikemuchatall.Fruitsandvegetableshavebeenselectivelybredtobestablefortransport,notforflavor.Ready-to-eatfoodsarethefoodindustry’scleverwayofmakingcropssuchascornorsoybeansintocommoditiesthatareboughtandsoldbytheton.Alargeandveryefficientfoodindustryturnsthosecommoditiesintoproductsthatcanbepackagedforalongshelflife.Admenmayevenhaveyouconvincedthatyoudon’thavetimetocookfromfreshingredients.

Ithinkyoudohavetimetocook,butforavarietyofreasons—frominformationfatiguetoover-schedulingtoasimplelackofconfidence—youmaychoosenotto.Andmoreover,Ibelieveyouhavetimetogrowatleastsomeofyourownfood.Intheworldofplants,seedsandsundoalltheheavylifting.Ifyoucanpokeaseedintoapotofsoil,youwillberewarded.Aseedcanreturnmorethanathousandtimesitsweightinfreshfoodforaverymodestinvestmentoftimeandenergy.

Growingfoodandcookingityourselfminutesafterharvestensurespeaknutritionalvalue.Mostso-calledfreshvegetableslosehalftheirvitaminsandantioxidantsinthedaysthatittakestotravelfromfieldtofork.Thephysiologicalbenefitsofgardeningandcookingaremany,butthepsychological

benefitsmaybeevengreater.Afewyearsago,Iwantedtocreateaplacewherefoodmattered,wherethe

earthmattered,whereIcouldstarttofeelgoodagainafteryearsofgrindingcommutes,rushedmeals,andthoughtlessconsumption.ImovedmysomewhatreluctantwifeDarcyandtwosonsoutofthecitytoanacreinaneighborhoodofacreages.Mymovewasdramatic,butyoursdoesn’thavetobe.Youcantakesmallbutstillimportantstepstowardamorefulfilled,flavorfullifewithoutsellingyourhouseorleavingthecity.

ThebestthingthatIdoeachdayiswalkthroughmyyardlookingfordinner.Evenintherain,it’smorefulfillingthancommuting,talkingtomyboss,oransweringemail.Itslowsmedown,quietsmymind,andgetsmefocusedonwhatI’mgoingtocookandeatthatnight.IfIwantto,Icanlookforwhatmightberipeandreadyfortomorrow,too.OrIcanmakethattomorrow’sadventure.

Ihavealargegarden,butthatisnotaprerequisitefordeliberateeating.Youcandothesamethingatafarmer’smarketorbylookingoverpotsoffreshherbs

onyourapartmentbalcony.Youcanreconnectwithfood,withtheland,andwithyourfamilybychoosing,cooking,andeatingfoodtogether.Ifthissoundsabitfancifulandpoetic,it’snoaccident.Poetryismeanttomakeyoufeel—andIthinkthateatingfoodthatyouhavegrownyourselfandcookedsimply,butwithcare,willmakeyoufeelnourishedandhappyandconnected.Evenifallyougrowisparsleyinapotonyourwindowsill,itwillsmellmorepungentandtastefresherthanwhateverwiltedbunchesyoucanfindinthegrocerystore.Thefragranceofmyfresh-cutherbsrunsthroughmybrainanddownmyspinewithwavesofpleasure.Ialways,always,stoptosmelltheherbs.

Balconygardenscaneasilysupplyafewsaladsaweekandallthefreshherbstwopeoplecouldhopetouse.Mostsuburbanyardsarefullofsunnyshelteredspotsforpotsandunderutilizedlawnthatiseasilymadeproductive.MyneighborsinVancouver,forexample,grewhundredsofgarlicbulbsintheirfrontyardratherthanplantingalawn.Manycitydwellersaredoinglikewise,takingcontroloftheirpersonalhealthandthehealthoftheirurbanenvironmentbyswappingturfforkaleandcauliflower,plantsthatareasdecorativeastheyareedible.

Agardenisyourtriptothegym,yourfree-foodgrocerystore,andapotentsourceofvitamins,fiber,andantioxidantsallrolledintoone.

WhenIsetmyselfthetaskofgrowingmyownfood,amillionthingsranthroughmymind.CouldIgooffthegridandthumbmynoseatthegrocerystoreandBigFood?WouldIsavemoney?Loseweight?OrwouldIgrowlettuceforfortydollarsahead?IembarkedonaquesttoeatsomethingthatIgrewmyself,everyday,foroneyear.Eatinghome-grownfoodtwelvemonthsoftheyearrequiresdiligenceandskill—skillIdidnot,atfirst,possess.IhadnoideawhatIwasgettingintoandsoonfoundmyselfastransformedastherawlandfromwhichIhadcarvedmygarden.

DarcyandIbegancuring,canning,andfreezing.Oldfamilyrecipesweredustedoff,manyofthemscrawledonindexcardswithscantinstructions.Istartedseedlingsinmyofficeandgrewalfalfaandmungbeansproutsinthekitchen.Ibuiltagreenhouse,thenashedforpottinganddryingeverythingfromdillandcorianderseedstopotatoesandonions.Isearchedtheyardforspacestoexploitinwinter,earlyspring,andlatefall,inanefforttoproducefreshfoodoutsidethenormalgrowingseason.Foreverysoggyorsandy,hard-to-managebitofgroundinyouryard,therearesunnynooks,warmsouth-facingwalls,andprotectedpatiospacesthatcanproducefoodinapotofsoil,sometimesyear-round.

Fiveyearslater,Iamstillverymuchonthegrid.Darcystillvisitsthegrocerystoreregularly(thoughusuallywithoutme,asIam“disruptive”).IguessIdidn’treallyexpecttogrowallmyownfoodwhileholdingdownademandingjobwritingforamajordailynewspaper,bloggingaboutcookingandgardening,anddebunkingnutritionmythsfortelevision.Iunderestimatedtheskillsetrequiredtofarmevenaquarterofanacre.

Myfathergrewuponafarm,butnoneofthatgenerationalknowledgewaspasseddowntome.Sowhenmyfirstradishessproutedanddied,Ihadnoideawhy.Foreveryhappysuccesscameaconfusingfailure.Everyvegetablehasitsownpreferencesforsoil,water,sunlight,andnutrients.Everyyardhasacompletelyuniquesetofmicroclimatesandsoilconditions.Ilearnedaboutsoilandcomposting,thebasicsofwhichcanbemasteredwithalittletrialanderror(moreonthatlater).Iamstilllearningtheintricaciesofmypropertyand,overtime,youtoowillbecometheworld’sleadingexpertatgrowingfoodinyours.

Planningthegardenandourmeals—harvesting,processing,pickling,cooking,andeatingourownfood—iswhatDarcyandIdotogethereverysingleday.

Today,thespareroomisfullofcuredonionsincardboardboxesandtheextradresserloadedwithYukonGoldandWarbapotatoes.Darcy’smotherandgrandmotherstillrememberedhowtomakepickles.Theysharedtheirrecipeswithusandevenshowedushowtodoit.Thepantryisstackedwithdillandbread-and-butterpickles,jam,relish,andbeetsinjars.Thefreezeriswell-stockedwithtomatoesforsauceanddozensofvacuum-sealedbagsofgreen,yellow,andpurplebushbeans.Inseason,wealwayshaveagoodsupplyofspinach,chard,threekindsofkale,fourkindsoflettuce,carrots,turnips,andfreshherbs.Tomatoes,hotandmildpeppers,zucchini,pattypansquash,andothersub-tropicalsthriveduringthesummer,ifIgivethemagoodstartinthehouse.

Cookbookswrittenoverthepastfourdecadesassumethatyouhaveaccesstoeveryimaginableingredientintheworld—whichyoudo,atthegrocerystore.Butmostmoderncookbookspaylittleattentiontothekindsoffruitsandvegetablesthatpeoplecananddogrowthemselvesorfindatthelocalfarmer’smarket.Thisbookcondensesfiveyearsofexperimentationinto130-plusrecipesandincludesseasonaltipsforgrowingyourownfood.Therecipesaredesignedtousetheproducethatyoucaneasilygrowyourself,insimple,delicious,andsustainableways.Thegardeninginstructionsareintendedtohelpyoumakeuseofeverybitofgroundandeveryfavorablemicroclimateinyouryardandhome

toproducefood.Traditionalfarmhousemethods—canning,pickling,andpreserving—aredustedoffandmodernizedforthetwenty-firstcenturycook.

Let’stakeitseasonbyseason,preparethesoil,reapthebounty,andpreparetasty,nourishingfood.Youcangrowwhatyoueatandeatwhatyougrow.Youcanslowdown,unplug,andfeelbetter.

RandyShore

SpringPlan,thenPlant

Iachetogetoutinthegardeninthefirstdaysofspring,tosmellthesoil,feelmymuscles,weed,hoe,till,andbuildraisedbeds.ButIdon’t.

DoIgazelonginglyoutmywindow?Yes.ButIresisttheurgetoworkcold,wetsoil.Muckingaroundinthegardenbeforethesoilhaswarmedandgivenupsomeofitswintermoisturecanturnyourgrowingspaceintoamixturenotunlikeconcrete.Clodsofcompactedearthcantakeuptoayeartobreakdownandmakeweedingallbutimpossible.

Ifyougetabreakintherainandastringofsunnydaysinearlyspring,youcanplantpeasandbroadbeanswithoutdoingtoomuchharmtoyoursoilstructure.Choosethesunniestspotinthegarden—thespotwhereyouwillputyourtomatoesatthebeginningofsummer—suchasthespaceinfrontofasouth-facingfenceorwall.Putthebroadbeansinclosetothefenceandplantarowofpeasimmediatelyinfrontofthem,tothesouth.Youdon’twantyourpeastrappedintheshadeofbroad-beanstalksthatcaneasilytopfourfeet(1.2m).Now,walkaway.

Thefirstfewweeksofspringareformappingyouryard’sproductivezonesandplanningyourcrops.Iwantyoutoreimagineyouryardasaminiaturefarm.Forthistask,youwillneedafewsheetsofgraphpaper,apencil,andacompass.Acurrentseedcatalogwillcomeinhandyaswell.

Drawalargeoutlineofyourentirelotonthegraphpaperandthenaddtheoutlineofthehouse.Addthesundecks,flowerbeds,balconies,sidewalks,anddriveway.Putinthetreesandtheoutlineofthegarden,ifitexists,orwhereyou’dlikeyourgardentobe,ifitdoesn’tyetexist.GetoutyourcompassandlabelyourmapwithNorth,South,East,andWest.

PickasunnydayinthelasttwoweeksofMarchandgooutintheyardaroundninea.m.Marktheareasonyourmapthatareintheshade.Repeatthis

exerciseatthreep.m.(Dependingonwherethebuildingsandtreesareinyouryard,youmightwanttotryitattena.m.andfourp.m.)Now,lookatwhatisleft.Theunshadedareasofyouryard—thespacesthatareinfullsunbetweenninea.m.andthreep.m.—arethemostpotentiallyproductive.Theotherspacesaren’tuseless,buttheyaretrickiertouseeffectively,ortheymaybesuitableforcertaincrops.Cilantro,forinstance,likescoolmorningsunbutprefersshadeintheafternoon.Thymeandrosemarythriveinhotafternoonsun.

South-facingwalls,fences,andsundecksreflectheatandlightandprovidesomeshelterfromthewind,creatingsub-tropicalmicroclimatessuitablefortomatoes,basil,peppers,andeggplantvines.Likeaclocheorcoldframe,asimplelean-toframemadeofwoodandcoveredwithclearplasticcanmagnifytheeffect.

Thisheatmap,ascrudeasitmaybe,isaninvaluabletoolfordecidingwheredifferenttypesofvegetables,eachwithdifferentneeds,shouldbepositionedtothrive.Wildplantsarebothcompetitorsandspecialists,builttoexploitparticularconditionsofmoisture,fertility,light,andwarmth.Vegetablesareselectivelybredtobringoutcertaincharacteristicssuchaslargeediblerootsorsucculentleafygreens.Theyarenotbuilttocompete;rather,theydependonyoutogivethemeverythingtheyneedanddefendthemfromanythingthatwillinterferewiththeirabilitytoconvertelementalnutrientsandsunshineintofood.Youandyourvegetablesarepartners,butyouarethebrainsoftheoperation.

Considercontainergardening.Potsofsoilactlikelittlemicroclimates,warmingtherootsofplantswheneverthesuncomesout.Potswarmmuchfasterthanthesoilinyourgarden,givingyouaminimumone-monthheadstartonplanting.Becausetheyareportable,potscanalsobemovedtowhereverthesunisthatweekandfollowitaroundtheyardastheseasonsprogress.Bychoosingthesunniestlocationsinyouryardforcontainers,youcanstartseedlingsfortransplantingfarearlierthanitwouldbepossibletosowseedsdirectlyinthegarden.

Raisedbedsdomuchthesameworkinthegarden,promotingsolarheatgain,drainage,andaeration,andallowingcoolairtoflowawayinthechannelsbetweentheboxesorraisedsections.Togrowfoodsuccessfullyinthespring,youneedtolearnyouryard’ssecrethotspotstooptimizegrowingconditions.

THESOILISALIVINGTHINGThesoilinyourgardenisalivingthing—actually,billionsoflivingthings.Minerals,organicmatter,andmicrobiota,inbalance,providetheelemental

nutrientsthatplantsneedtogrow.You’veprobablyseentheBigThreelistedonthefrontoffertilizerpackagesasN-P-K:nitrogen,phosphorus,andpotassium.Eachnumber(e.g.,3-15-0)isthepercentageofthenutrientbyweight.Chemicalfertilizersprovidethoseelementsbutinquantitiesthatcanunleashamassiveburstofenergy,literallyburningtheorganicmatterrightoutofyoursoil.

Vegetablesneedthoseelementalnutrients—alongwithmanyothermicronutrientssuchascopper,manganese,zinc,iron,andmagnesium—togrow.Buttheyneedthemoverthelonghaul,notjustforadayorafewweeks.

Microbeswilleatyourchemicalfertilizers,buttheeffectwillnotoftenbewhatyoudesire.Thinkaboutacampfire,burninglowandslow.Feeditslowlywithwood,anditstaysatanicetemperatureforalongtime,releasingenergyataratethatisusefulforcooking.Ifyouusegasolineonthecampfire,youwillreleaseloadsofheat,butinaflash,whichisnotusefulforcooking.Microbialactivityreleasesenergyandnutrientslikeembersreleaseheat—lowandslow.

Thetemperatureofyoursoilwillrisethroughthespringuntilthepeakofsummer,andthegrowthrateofyourplantswillincreasealongwithit.Assoiltemperaturesrise,microbialactivitywillincreaseinthesoiltoo,convenientlyreleasingenergyandnutrientsasyourplantsrequirethem.Yourjobistocarefullystokethemicrobialfireinyoursoilwithgoodfuel.Well-rottedcompostandmanureswillprovidelong-burningfuel,andtheprocessofaddingthemwillcauseyourmetaphoricalfiretoflareup—briefly—andthensettledown.

Whenyouloadyourgardenwithnutritiousmanuresandcompostandaeratethesoilintheprocess,themicrobesaregoingtohaveaparty,burningnitrogenandoxygenlikethere’snotomorrowandmakingthesoil’snutrientstemporarilyunavailabletoplants.Waitafewweeksforthepartytodiedownandplantwhenthesoilhassettleddown—lowandslow.

MAKEYOUROWNCUSTOMFERTILIZERSImixmyownfertilizerforavarietyofreasons.Iliketheideaofusingagriculturalbyproductslikeseedandbonemealsratherthanmanufacturednutrients.It’sacircle-of-lifething.Ialsoliketotweakthemixtomatchtheneedsofplantsthatwantalittlemoreofonethingthantheother,especiallyspinach(nitrogen),potatoes(calcium),andtomatoes(phosphorus).

Themixbecomesactiveasthesoilwarmsup,triggeringacomplexsetofbiologicalprocessesthatmakethenutrientsavailableinaformthatyourvegetablescaneasilyconsume.Bonemeal,kelpmeal,bloodmeal,andlimeare

availableatanygoodgardencenter.Seedmeals(suchasalfalfaorcanola)areusedforanimalfeed,soyoumayhavetoconsultafarm-supplybusinesstofindthem.Don’tbeafraidtobuyabigbag—it’scheap.Myacreofgardengoesthroughninetylb(fortykg)ayear.

Thenutritionalvaluesofmyfertilizercomponentsbreakdownasfollows:Seedmeal:Alfalfa,soy,cottonseed,andcanolamealofferslow-release

nitrogenandphosphoruswithatraceofpotassium.Iusecanolaseedmealbecauseit’sthecheapest,butalfalfamealissometimeseasiertofind.N-P-K:4-1-1

Bonemeal:Usesteamedordolomitebonemealtoprovideslow-releasephosphorusforrootdevelopmentwiththebonusofcalcium,whichyourdarkgreenswilllike.Nitrogencontentvariesbybrand.N-P-K:3-15-0

Kelpmeal:Thisdryfertilizerislowerinnitrogenbuthigherinpotassiumthanseedmealsandanimportantsourceoftraceminerals,suchascopper,zinc,andmagnesium.N-P-K:1-0-3.

Compost:Well-rottedcompostimprovesaerationinclaysoilsandimprovesmoistureretentioninsandysoils.N-P-K:1-1-1.

Bloodmeal:Idon’tputbloodmealinmygeneral-purposemix,butitprovidesaquickhitofnitrogenwhenslow-releaseisn’tenough.N-P-K:14-0-0.

Lime:Coastalsoilsarequiteacidic,whichcaninterferewithnutrientabsorption,whileinlandsoilsareoftenmorebalancedwithlittleneedforlime.Buyatestkitorcheckwithlocalexpertsonyourneighborhood’ssoilconditions.Limereducesacidityinsandysoilsandmayimprovethestructureofclaysoils.

Ifyouaregardeninginasmallspaceorbalcony,buyfertilizercomponentswithaneighborandsplitthem,likemymomdoes.

Ifyoukeepthecomponentsofyourfertilizerseparate,youcanmixon-the-flyforeachbedofvegetablesyouplant(whilekeepingcarefulnotesonitseffect,ofcourse).Herearesomeexamples:

BasicFertilizerMix

10partscanolaseedoralfalfameal

1partbonemeal1partkelpmeal1partdolomitelime*

PotatoFertilizerMix

2partsseedmeal

1partkelpmeal1partbonemeal

SpinachFertilizerMix

6partsseedmeal

1partkelpmeal1partbonemeal1partdolomitelime*partbloodmeal

Forvigorousplantgrowth,hoeinthefertilizermixwhenyouplantarowofseedsorputafewtablespoonsintheholebeforeyouplantseedlings.Iuseabout1cup(250mL)foreverytwoyd/mofrow,anddoublethatforonions.Forplantsthatgrowverylarge,suchascauliflower,incorporateabout½cup(125mL)undereachseedling.

IuseBasicFertilizerMixwhenItillincovercropsorshreddedleavestoexpeditedecomposition,firingupthemicrobestodotheirwork.Spreadalightdustingoffertilizerovertheweeds,shreddedleaves,clover,fallrye,orwhateverothercovercropsyouhave,andtillitin.

TheBasicFertilizerMixisalsousefulasacompostaccelerator.IfIwanttobuildafastcompostheapforusewithinafewmonths(asopposedtomyusualtwoyears),Iwilluseshreddedleavesinalternatinglayerswithgreengarden

wastethatIhavechoppedtoribbonswithamachete.Dusteachlayerwithahandfuloffertilizeranddampenitwiththewaterhosetojump-startdecomposition.Ifyougetitright,theheapshouldgethotenoughinsidetokillalltheweedseeds.Turnandmixtheheapeveryfewweekstoaerateandreignitedecomposition.

WHATAREYOUGOINGTOGROW?Decidingwhatcropsyouaregoingtogrowisonepartpersonaltasteandonepartrationalanalysis.Inotherwords,youmustreconcilewhatyouwanttoeatfromthegardenwithwhatyoucanreasonablyexpecttogrowwithsuccess.Evenveterangardenersexperiencecropfailures,anditcantakeyearstofigureoutexactlywhatwentwrong.Climate,soilquality,nutrientlevels,pests,andthevagariesofeachseason’sweatherareonlythemostobviousofthelimitlessvariableswithwhichyouwillcontendeachandeveryyear.Andconditionswillchangeeachandeveryyear.

Gardencropsfallintothreegeneralcategories:Thingsyoureallywanttogrow,thingsyoucaneasilygrow,andthingsitmakesfinancialsensetogrow.

Takeafreshpieceofpaperandmakethreecolumns.Inthefirstcolumn,listtwoorthreevegetablesthatyouabsolutelylove.Forme,thereisnopointingardeningatallifIdon’tgrowtomatoes.Thedifferencebetweenatart,sweet,juicygardentomatoandtheflavorless,uniformgrocerystoreproductisimmeasurable.It’swhatgetsmeoutofbedinthemorning.IroundoutthefirstcolumnwithThaiDragonchiliesandgreenonions.

Inthesecondcolumn,listthevegetablesthatarevirtuallyfool-proof,prolific,andunlikelytosuccumbtopests.Peas,beans,spinach,chard,kale,zucchini,andlettucegrowvigorouslyinmostsoils,requirerelativelylittlespacefortheamountoffoodtheyproduceandthriveeveniftheweatherislessthanperfect.Ifyouhavealargegarden,addpotatoesandstorageonionstothesecondcolumn.Neitherisexpensivetobuy,buttheyareextraordinarilyproductiveintermsofcaloriesdeliveredfortheareatheyrequire,andbothstorewell,soyou’llbeeatingthemrightthroughthewinter.

Inthethirdcolumn,listyourfavoriteherbsandpriceyveggies.Freshherbsdeliveratonofflavorandabighitofantioxidantsandvitamins.Theyareexpensivetobuybuteasytogrow,soitmakessensetogrowthemyourself.Infact,ifyougrownothingelse,growherbs.

Choosefromsage,rosemary,thyme,chives,andoregano,allofwhichrequireapermanenthomeinyouryard.Ifyoucan,createanherbgardenonthesouthsideofthehouseandasnearthekitchenaspossible.(Duringrainyweather,theshorterthetripbetweenthekitchenandyourherbsthebetter.)Theywillallthriveinlargepotsonasunnydeckorbalcony.Parsley,basil,cilantro,anddillcanalsobegrownincontainersorinthegarden,butyoumustsowthemaneweachspring.Onebaylaurelshrubwillsupplyyouandyourneighborswith

freshbayleavesyear-round.Babycarrots,cherrytomatoes,andbroccolicanallbeexpensivetobuy,soitmightmakesensetoalsoaddthemtocolumnthree.

IfyouhavechildrenwhowanttogrowtheirownJack-o’-lanterns,considerapumpkinvine—although,ataboutseventeencentsperlb(500g),it’snotaverywiseuseofgardenspace.Sweetcornisalsoaspacehog,andyoucanbuyitinseasonbythesideoftheroadforapittance.Tome,it’snotworththetrouble.

Usethelisttoguideyourstudyofagoodregionalseedcatalogandtohelpyoumakegoodchoicesatthegardencenter.

GETAHEADSTARTSeedsarecheap.Youcanbuy1,000onionseedsforaboutfifteendollars.Carrotandlettuceseedsareevencheaper.Iamwillingtoriskadollarforthepossibilityofspringsalads.Ifyourseedssproutandyougetalatefrost,I’msorrytosayyougambledandlost.Hey,itwasonlyabuck.

Therearequiteafewplantsthatyoucansowinthree-orfive-gallonpotsinasunny,shelteredpartoftheyardaweekortwobeforetheestimateddateofyourlastfrostofthespring.Inwarmerregions,thatcouldbeasearlyasMarch10,butforgardenersincolderclimes,aslateasmid-May.Watchtheweatherforecast.Ifyouareworriedaboutalatefrost,throwasheetofclearplasticoveryourseededpotsforextraprotectionduringthefirstfewweeksafteryousowyourseeds,thenremoveit.

Usecommercialgardenmixorpottingsoilforcontainergardeningandstartingseeds.Thenaturallyoccurringpestsandpathogensingardensoilwillspringtolifewhenitwarmsupandcansickenordevouryourseedlings.Thefollowinggreensaregenerallysuccessfulearlystarters:

• Arugulaisabittergreenthatwillgrowquitehappilyincontainersintheyardoronabalcony,anditcanremainproductiverightthroughthesummerifitgetsafternoonshade.Mix½cup(125mL)SpinachFertilizerMix(p.14)withsoilinafive-galloncontainer.Pickasunny,shelteredlocationandsoweighttotenseeds.Arugulamaytakeoneortwoweekstogerminate,dependingonthetemperature.Onemonthaftertheysprout,feedwithhigh-nitrogenfishfertilizer.Harvestthelargeroutsideleavesandmixwithmildlettucetoaddapepperypunchtosalads.

• Parsleyisacousinofthecarrotthathasalargerootsystem.Sowparsleyin4-inchcontainersofpottingsoilandtransplanttothegardenwhentheyare

sixinchestall.Ifyouintendtokeepparsleyinacontainerorbalconygarden,useafive-gallonpot.Mix1cup(250mL)BasicFertilizerMix(p.14)intothesoilandsowtheseedsabout¼-inch(6-mm)deep.Bepatient;parsleycantakeafullmonthtogerminate.Theplantswillthriveinfullsunbutalsotolerateafternoonshade.Whenyouharvest,takeleavesandstemsfromtheoutside,leavingthenewshootsinthecenteroftheplantintact.

• Spinachhasarelativelycompactrootsystemandwillgrowtomaturityinpots.Makesuretoharvestandretiretheplantbeforethehotweathercomesinsummer,becausespinachboltseasily.SpinachsownlateinAugustcanbeproductiveuntilthefirstfrost.Forcontainercultivation,mixthreegallonsofsoilwith½cup(125mL)ofSpinachFertilizerMix(p.14).Seedtransplantsin4-inchpotsandmovethemintothegardenafterthefirsttrueleavesappear.

• MizunaisacrispJapanesesaladgreenwithspiky,slightlybitterleaves.Mizunawillgrownomatterwhattheweatherdishesup.Eveninacold,wetsummer,whenyoursun-lovingveggiesaredreamingofCalifornia,yourmizunawillcarrythemail.Prepareafive-gallonpotwith1cup(250mL)BasicFertilizerMix(p.14)andplantfourorfiveseeds.Theplantsareprolificandresistbolting.Fortransplants,planttwoseedsper4-inchpotandthintoasingleplantabouttwoweeksbeforemovingtothegarden.

• Chivesareperfectforbalconiesandpotsastheytendtospreadquicklywhennotcontained.Theygrowabundantlyatthefirstkissofspringsunshine.Prepareathree-galloncontainerwithsoiland½cup(125mL)ofSpinachFertilizerMix(p.14).Sowchivesuptofourweeksbeforethelastfrostandtheseedswillcomeupassoonasthesoilwarms.Chivesdiebackinthewinterandreboundeveryspring,barringadeep,hardfrost.Asinsurance,inAugustcollect1tbspofseedsfromthedriedflowersandsetthemaside,justincase.

PREPARETHEGARDENInspring,mygardenisamixofpermanentbedsofasparagusandherbs—sage,rosemary,thyme,andoregano—thatoccupythesamespaceyear-round,aswellasoverwinteredchardandkale,andcovercropssuchasfallrye,fieldpeas,andoats.AtleasttwobedsarededicatedtogarlicplantedthepreviousOctoberand

mulchedwith6in(15cm)ofshreddedleaves.Anyspacenottakenupwithpermanentinstallations,covercrops,andoverwinteringcrops,Icoverwithleafmulchforthewinter.Inotherwords,therearealotofmovingparts,andeachhasdifferentneeds.

Preparinggardensoilforplantingisanexerciseinpatience.Ifyouhaveacovercropinplace,itshouldleapbacktolifeandputonsignificantgrowthasthesoiltemperaturerises.That’sagoodthing.Legumesandgrasseshavedeep,elaboraterootnetworksthatdragnutrientsfromdeepinthesoilandstorethem.Whenyoutillinthecovercrop,thetopsandrootsdecomposeandreleaseallthosenutrientsclosetothesurface,intherootzoneofyourvegetables.

Thetrickwithcovercropsistoallowthemtoputonfastgrowthastheweatherwarmsandtilltheminbeforetheytoughen.Maturegrassesformligninandcellulose,fibersthatarehardtobreakupwithatillerorahoe.Toughgrassesandstemsarealsoveryslowtodecompose.Checkcovercropgrassesfortendernessoftenatthistimeofyearandturnthemunderquicklywhentheystarttotoughen.

Oncethelastfrosthaspassed,astringofsunny,dryweathercouldwarmthesoilenoughtotillandtoworkincompost.Useashoveltoremovethetop6in(15cm)ofsoilandgrabahandful.Squeezeitinyourhand.Ifitformsaballthatcrumbleswhenyoupokeit,thesoilissafetowork.Behonestwithyourself.Ifit’stooearly,don’triskit.

Besuretodateyouryardmapafteryouwriteinthelocationsofeachcrop.Saveeveryyear’smapsoyoucanrotatecropsaroundthegardenthenextyeartodiscouragepestsfromaccumulating.

Beforetilling,lightlydustyourcovercropsandleafmulchwithBasicFertilizerMix(p.14)tospeeddecomposition.Takecarenottouselimeintheareaofthegardenwhereyouintendtoplantpotatoes.UsethePotatoFertilizerMix(p.14)forthatspace.

Atilled-incovercrop—whatfarmerscallgreenmanure—takesaboutthreetofourweekstodecompose,iftheweatherisfavorable.Afterthreeweeks,ifyourgardenisparticularlyweedy,youmaywanttotillasecondtimeto

eradicatemoreoftheweedsandkillanythathavesproutedfromnewlyexposedseeds.Weedseedscanlurkinthesoilforyears,justwaitingtobemovedcloseenoughtothesurfacetosprout.Whileyouarewaitingforthegreenmanuretodoitsthing,youcanpreparesomenecessaryinfrastructureandtakeafewimportantmeasurements.

Inaperfectworld,yourgardenwouldbeslightlyhigherthanthesurroundinglandscapeandslopegentlytothesouth.Depressionsallowcoldairtopool,creatingpersistentpocketsoffrostuntillateinthespring,delayinggerminationandslowingplantgrowth.Buildingraisedbedsorboxedgardensabovethegradeofthesurroundinglandhelps,butterraformingtocreateoptimalconditionsshouldbeyourlong-termgoal.

Getoutyourcompass,alongpieceoflumbersuchasatwo-by-four,andacarpenter’slevel.Placethetwo-by-fouronthegardensoilpointingnorth-southandplacethelevelontop.Ifthelevelindicatesthatyourgardenisgenerallyflatorslopingtothesouth—happydays.Coldairflowsdown,butitwillremaintrappedwhereitcannotdrainaway.

Inwinecountry,grapegrowersprizesouth-facingslopesandwillspendlargesumsofmoneytofillindepressionsandcreatechannelsforcoldairdrainage.Youcandothesame,butwithoutspendinglargesumsofmoney.Asyoubuildyourgarden’ssoil,fillindepressions,raisethegardenabovethegradeoftherestoftheyard,andcreateagentleslope,hightothenorthandlowtothesouth.Itmaytakeyearstoachieve,buteverysquarefootofyourgardenwillbemoreproductive.

IT’STIMETOPLANTIfyouliveneartheWestCoast,springmaybelongandwetbutseldomfreezingcold,andthetransitionfromwintertosummerwillbeaboutthreemonthslong.Thatmeansyoucanplantquick,cool-weathercropstoharvestbeforeyoursummervegetables,suchastomatoesandpeppers,gointheground.Plantearlycropsinthesunniestlocationswhenthedangeroffrosthaspassed,andplantodevotethatspaceovertotheheatloverscomeJuneorJuly.

Inland,yourlastfrostmightcomejustweeksbeforesummerstarts,soyouneedtosetasidetherightlocationsforheat-lovingplantsrightfromthestart.Youwon’thavetimetogetcool-weathercropstomaturityinlessthansixweeks,withthepossibleexceptionofradishes.

Goodregionalseedsuppliersprovidelocalguidanceonplantingdatesforyourarea,eitherintheircatalogsorontheirseedpackets.Usethatinformation

andyourlocalknowledge.Everygardenisdifferent,soyouhavetomakeyourselfanexpertonyourgrowingspace.Keepnotesabouteachcropthatyouplant,notingthedateyousow,whereitisinthegarden,andhowsuccessfullyitgrows.Experimentwithyourfertilizermixtoo.

Pulloutyourcarefullydrawnyardmapandyourlistofvegetablestomakearoughplanforplantingandsuccession.Early-seasoncropslikeradishes,spinach,kale,peas,andbroadbeansgoinfirst.Thereisnorulethatsaysyouhavetofillyourentiregardenwithseedsandplantsinoneweekend.Thatstrategyguaranteesyouwillbeoverrunwithproducewhenallthoseplantsmature.Plantalittlebiteachweek,andyouwillproducevegetablesinmanageableamountsoveralongerperiodoftime.

Drawsomeboxesonthegardenspaceonyourmapandconsiderwhichvegetablesfromyourlistyouwanttogrowandinwhatquantity.Inasmallergarden,optforhigh-valuecrops,theonesyoucan’tlivewithoutandtheonesthatareexpensivetobuy.Ifyouhavealargegardenspace,youcandevotespacetostoragecropssuchaspotatoesandonions.Asageneralrule,placetallercropstothenorthandlowerplantstothesouth,soeverybodygetsalookatthesun.

Hereareafewtipstoguideyourthinking:

• Tomatovinescaneasilyreach6ft(1.8m)talliftheyarestakedandcarefullypruned.Placetheminfullsunonthenorthedgeofthegardentoavoidthrowingshadeonothercrops.Acombinationofearlyandlatevarietieswillpreventaglutoffruitatanyonetimeduringthegrowingseason.Onevineofsaucetomatoes,suchasSanMarzano,caneasilyproducemorethan100piecesoffruit.Inagoodseason,fourSanMarzano

vinescanfillyourfreezer.

• Spinachwiltsdowntoone-tenthofitsvolumewhencooked.Youwillfillabuckettogetjustfourportions.Plantoplant10rowft(3m)abouteverythreeweeksinspringforacontinuoussupply.

• BrightLightschardisasprolificasitiscolorful.Harvestleavesfromtheoutsideoftheplantanditwillproducesixtotenmonthsoftheyear.Halfadozenplantsshouldbeplentyforafamilyoffour.

• Cucumbersproduceprodigiouslyforaboutsixweeks.Planttwovinesofslicingcucumbersforasmallfamily,fourifyouintendtomakeBread-and-ButterPickles(p.131).Sixvinesofpicklingcucumberswillnetatwo-yearsupplyofClassicDillPickles(p.132).

• Manyleaflettucesarecut-and-come-again,sohalfadozenplantsshouldbeenough.Forheadlettuceandromaine,plantafewseedseveryotherweekthroughoutthespring.Ifyouplanttwentyseedsatonce,youwillhavetwentyheadsoflettucetoeatinoneweekatmid-summer.

• Parsleywillgrow2or3ft(61cmto1m)highwhenletlooseinthegarden.Sixbigplantswillgiveyouabighandfulofparsleyeverydaythroughoutthegrowingseasonandpossiblyallwintertoo,ifyouareluckywiththeweather.

• Thyme,rosemary,chives,andsageneedapermanentlocationthatofferssomeprotectionfromtheelementsduringthewinter.Oreganomayalso

overwinterinmildclimates.

• Asparaguscanthriveinthesamelocationfortentotwentyyears,sothinklong-termwhenyoudecidewhetherandwheretogrowit.(Formoredetailsongrowingasparagus,seep.67.)

• Carrotsaredeliciousatanysize,soplantyourentireseason’ssupplyaboutamonthafterthelastfrost.Harvestbabycarrotsataboutsixweekstothintherowandallowspacefortheothercarrotstogrowlarge.PlantcarrotsforautumnaroundtheendofJuly.

• Onionsareastapleatmyhouse.Iplantabout500storageonions—bothredandSpanish—andanothertwentygreenonionseedsaweektoeatyoung.Tostartstorageonions,planttwentyseedsin4-inchpotsandtransfertothegardenwhentheyare6in(15cm)tall.

• Potatoesareanotherofmybigcrops.Ilovethemsmallasnewpotatoesandstoreenoughmaturekeeperstolastuntilspring.Onceyou’veallottedspacetoyourothercrops,plantpotatoesintheareasthatareleftvacant.

• Dillandcilantroprovidetender,pungentherbsthroughthesummer,thenseedstocookwiththroughthewinterandtore-sownextspring.Plantsomeseedsinacool,moistlocationforsucculentleavesandplantanotherhandfulinahot,sunnylocationandletthemgotoseed.

Toplantradishes,loosenthesoiltoadepthof3–4inches(7.6–10cm),thentakealengthofone-by-twoandpressitfirmlyintothesoil.Planttheseedsonthecompressedsoilandcoverwith½inch(1cm)compost.Compressingthesoilwillallowmoisturetowickupfromunderneath,resultinginsuccessfulgermination.Keepradishesmoistatalltimes.

Toperkupsageandrosemarybushesinspring,brushawayloosematerialontopofthesoilovertherootsandworkin1cup(250mL)

BasicFertilizerMix(p.14),thenmulchwithbrownleavesorwoodchipstosuppressweeds.

ACTIVEANDPASSIVESLUGCONTROLSlugsareamenaceanytimeplantsaregrowing,butthedamagetheydoto

small,defenselessseedlingsbordersoncriminal.Thesevoraciousmonsterscanwipeoutanentirerowofbabylettuceinonenight.Tocontrolslugs,youmuststartearlyandberelentless.Everyslugthatisallowedtoprocreatecangiverisetothreedozenmoreofitskindinaslittleastendays.

Thereareasmanywaystocontrolslugsastherearechattyneighborswithalousygraspofscience.Nearlyeverysolutionisimperfectinsomeway,buthey,it’sanimperfectworld.

Seedcatalogsofferexpensivecoppermeshorwirethatyoucanusetosurroundyourtenderplants.Slugsdonotliketocrossmetalbarriers.Butcopperisanexpensivesolutionanditdoesn’tkillthem;itjustencouragestheslugstofindawayaroundorchoosetoeatsomethingelse.

Metaldehydepelletsarealsoacommonandeffectivesolutiontocontrollingslugs,andthepoisondoeskillthem.Itwillalsokillyourpuppyandyourneighbor’scat.Metaldehydecauseskidneydamage,liverdamage,andevendeathinmammals—includingpetsandtoddlers.Ifyouusemetaldehydeinthegarden,youwillendupeatingitintraceamounts.Iprefertoeatfoodwithoutchemicalpesticides,soI’mnotabouttousetheminthegarden.

Diatomaceousearthisafineabrasivegritmadefromfossilizedalgae.Youcanpurchaseitatthegardencenter,butmakesureyougetanontoxicfood-gradetype.Ifyoudrizzlealineofitaroundyourplants,slugswillavoiditorbefatallyinjured.Myconcernwithdiatomaceousearthisthatitwilldamagevirtuallyeveryinsectthatcrossesit,includingtheladybugsthatkeepaphidsandleafminersundercontrol.Idon’tuseit.

Aringofdry,usedcoffeegroundsaroundyourtenderseedlingsmaydeterslugsfromcrossing,butitdoesn’tkillthem.Atworst,youwillbuildyoursoilwiththecoffeegroundsandrepelantsandcats,soit’sano-losesolution.Drycoffeegroundsonasheetofplywoodinthegarageorshedandsprinklethemliberallyaroundtendertransplants.

Ihavereadthatslugsloverolledoatsandwillchoosetoeatthemoveryourplants.Theproblemisthatratslikethem,too.Sorry,I’mnotgoingtostartfeedingratstocontrolslugs.

Beertrapsareaneffective,passiveformofslugcontrol.Digafewpieplatesintothegroundsotheyarelevelwiththegradeofthesoilandfillthemwithstalebeer.Beerattracts,traps,andkillstheslugs,butIalwaysstepinthepansandwreckthem,andthenIhavetocleanupthegooeyslugsoup.

Mypreferredsolutionisthemostlabor-intensive,butitisalsothecheapestandmosteffective.Takeanoldpieceofplywoodandcutitintostrips1ft(30.5

cm)wideby4ft(1.2m)long.Twoorthreeoftheseisenoughforalargegarden.Laytheboardsinthepathwaysandbetweentheplantsintheevenings,leavingalittlespaceunderneath.Thenextmorning,whenthesunishighinthesky,fliptheboardsover.Mostofthelocalslugcommunitywillbewaitingforyouunderneathorstuckontheboardsthemselves.Nowyoumustterminatetheirlives,withextremeprejudice.Apinchoftablesaltwillkillslugsquickly.Ihaveafriendwhostompsonthemwhileutteringadeafeningkaratescream,whichalsoworks.It’suptoyou.

HOWTOGROWPOTATOESNovegetablesuffersfrommoreconflictingadvicethanthepotato.Peoplegrowtheminallsortsofcontraptions,fromplasticbagstousedtires,andinthegardenwithtechniquesfromtrenchingtoheaping.Afive-gallonplanterwillfillwithpotatoesoverthreemonths,ifyoucan’tfindroomtogrowtheminthegarden.

Myfathergrewpotatoesbyplacingaseedpotatoontopofthegardensoilandputtingasparetirearoundit.Hethenfilledinthetirewithsoilasthevinesgrewhigher,andaddedanothertireandmoresoilasneeded.Thisworks,butyouendupwithaholeinthegardenwhereallthatsoilusedtobe.Isupposeifyouhaveabigpileofsoiljustsittingaround,youcouldtrythetiremethod.I’vealsoseenitdonewithstackedwoodframes.

I’vebeengrowingpotatoesforafewyearsnow,andIhavecometobelievethatthepotatoissoconfidentinitsabilities,soresilientandsonaturallyprolific,thatitwillproduceacropnomatterwhatmethodyouuse.Thatsaid,youcantakesomestepstoensureagoodcrop.

Thereasonthetiremethodworksisthatallthepotatoesgrowabovetheseed,nonebelow.Theobjectofthepotato-growingexerciseistogetasmuchloosefertilesoilovertheseedpotatoaspossible.

Here’swhatIdo:Growoatsonthepotatopatchthepreviousfall.Oatsdieinthedeepfrostsofwinterandleaveplentyoforganicrootmaterialbehindinthesoilaswellasdry,half-rottedoatstrawonthesurfaceofthesoil.

Deeplyworktheentirebedwithtwo-year-oldcompost.Avoidfreshmanure,whichmaycontainvirusesandotherpathogens.Avoidusinglimeonthepotatopatchforatleastsixmonthstooneyearbeforeplanting.Iusuallyplantpotatoesinnewersoil,asIexpandthefootprintofthegarden.Potatoesarereputedlyverygoodatconditioningnewsoil.

Digwellsorarowtroughabout1ft(30.5cm)deep.Eachseedpotatoshouldhaveatleastthreeeyesorsprouts.Ifyourpotatohassix,cutitinhalfsotherearethreeoneachsection.Placeoneseedpotatoatthebottomofthewellevery24in(61cm)withthesproutspointingup.Dustthesurfaceofthesoilaroundeachseedwith½cup(125mL)PotatoFertilizerMix(p.14).

Usingahoe,gentlypullloosesoilandoatstrawovertheseeduntilitisburiedabout2in(5cm)deep.Eachtimethevinesgettobeabout1ft(30.5cm)

tall—onceamonthorso—pullmoresoil,straw,anddriedleavesaroundthemuntilthewellfillsinandthenbegintocreateahillaroundeachvine.

Thebenefitofthismethodisthatyoudon’thavetoweedthepotatopatch.Justuseasharphoetoscrapethesoileachtimeyouheapitupandtheweedswillbecutandrecommittheirstolennutrientstothecause.

Aweekbeforeplanting,spreadseedpotatoesonacookiesheetorshort-sidedcardboardboxandplaceinabright,butnotsunny,windowforaweek.Thiswillgetthevinesstarted.

*IfsoilpHisbelow6.0

FreshHerbChimichurriSalsaVerde

PicodeGallo&GuacamoleGarden-StyleWorWontonSoupwithHomemadeWontons

ChickpeaSaladwithCilantroPestoHerbedTabbouleh

Radish&WhiteBeanSalad

QuickPickledShallotDressingGoddessoftheRanchDressingChicken&RainbowChard

ChickenFricasseewithGardenVegetablesBroiledSockeyewithGardenHerbsGardenVarietyLettuceWraps

VealScallopiniwithParsleyCaperSauceTheGreenMan’sMeatloaf

KangarooMeatballsinRoastedRedPepperSauceItalianSausageMeatballs

SaagPaneerSautéedChard&Onions

SicilianChardWildRice&Greens

RicePilafSpicyBroccoliRabewithPasta

RedLentilDalParsleyButterNoodles

TheOriginalRhubarb-BlueberryCrumbleSuperSimplePitaBread

AboutSalt

Throughoutthiscollectionofrecipes,youwillnotethatIuseavarietyofsalts,especiallykosher,sea,andpickling.Youwillneverseeordinarytablesaltinmykitchen.

Koshersaltcontainsnoaddediodineandhasaslightlylargergrainthantablesalt.Ithasaneutralflavorandprovidesconsistent,predictableseasoning.

GreysaltisharvestedfromtheoceaninBrittany.Thismoist,organicsaltismuchcoarserthantablesaltandislowerinsodium,butrichinmagnesium,calcium,potassium,copper,iron,andzinc.Itsmineralflavorprofileisexcellentwithrawfoods.

Picklingsalt,sometimescalledcoarsesalt,mustbeusedinpreserving.Ifyou

substituteotherkindsofsalt,itwilldangerouslyalterthechemistryofthebrine,resultingininediblefood—orworse.

FreshHerbChimichurriChimichurriissometimescalledArgentiniansteaksauce,butthispungentlittlepestoisgoingtoleaveanysteaksauceyouevertriedinthedust.Thecombinationofcilantroandparsleyforherbaceousfreshness,oliveoilforasilkyfeel,andalittlesplashofredwine

vinegarfortartnessmakethisagobsmackingexperience.Servewithgrilledmeats,eggs,orjustaboutanythingelse.

MAKES1CUP(250ML)

¼cup(125mL)cilantro½cup(125mL)flat-leafparsley

2tbspfreshoregano¼cup(60mL)mincedonion1garlicclove,chopped¼cup(60mL)oliveoil½tspseasalt½tspgroundblackpepper

3tbspredwinevinegar1smallredchilipepper,seededandminced

Note:Ifyoudon’thaveafoodprocessor,runaknifethroughtheherbsandgarlicuntiltheyarefinelychopped.

Placealltheingredientsinafoodprocessorandpulseuntilcombined.Thinthemixturewithadditionaloliveoil,ifnecessary.

SalsaVerdeThisrichherbpestoisperfectwitheggs,delicatelyflavoredfish,

roastchicken,orasadressingforboiledpotatoes.Substitutechives,arugula,orpungentbasilforsomeofthespinachtovarytheflavor.

MAKES1CUP(250ML)

1slicewhitebread,crustsremoved

1garlicclove1½tbspredwinevinegar1cup(250mL)choppedflatleafparsley½cup(125mL)spinach

2tbspcapers½tspseasalt¼tspgroundblackpepper½cup(125mL)fineunfilteredoliveoil

Iliketousetheverybestoliveoilindishesthatareeatenraworinrecipesinwhichtheoilisanintegralpartofthedish.

Inafoodprocessor,pulsebreadandgarlicuntilfinelychopped.Addvinegar,parsley,spinach,capers,salt,andpepper,andpulsewhileaddingoliveoiluntilasmoothsauceforms.Addmoreoilifthemixtureistoothick.

PicodeGallo&GuacamoleImakefreshsalsaandguacamoletogether,becausehavingonewithouttheotherisjustboring.Thisismyintegratedrecipe,

optimizedforefficiency:AddPicodeGalloandmostoftheliquidtomashedavocadosand—boom—guacamole.Thisrecipemakesenoughforafamilyoffourontaconight,butyoucandoubleor

tripleitforaparty.

PICODEGALLO:MAKES2CUPS(500ML);GUACAMOLE:MAKES1¼CUPS(310ML)

PICODEGALLO:1½cups(375mL)finelydicedtomatoes4greenonions,chopped1½tbspseededandmincedjalapeño¼cup(60mL)choppedcilantroleaves2tbsplimejuice(1lime)½tspseasalt

GUACAMOLE:2ripeavocados

5tbspPicodeGallo½tspseasalt3tbspliquidfromPicodeGallo

PICODEGALLO:Inabowl,placeallingredients.Stirtocombine.That’sit.You’redone.Letmarinatefor20minutesbeforeserving.

GUACAMOLE:

Removefleshfromavocadosand,inabowl,mashlightlywithafork.StirinPicodeGallo,salt,andliquidfromPicodeGallo.Coverbypressingplasticwrapontosurfaceofguacamole.Keepcovereduntilreadytoserve.

Garden-StyleWorWontonSoupwithHomemadeWontons

Ieatwontonsoupandcrispvegetablesforbreakfastmorethananyotherdish,especiallyinwinter.Thehotbrothinfusedwithspicy

gingersoothesandwarms.Plus,wontonsoupisagreatopportunitytogetinaservingofvegetablesbeforelunch.

MAKES4SERVINGS

4cups(1L)low-sodiumchickenstock

1tspfishsauce2¼-inch(6-mm)slicesfreshginger

2tbspkoshersalt16homemadewontons(p.33)1cup(250mL)slicedNapacabbage4Shanghaiorbabybokchoy,quarteredlengthwise1greenonion,chopped¼tspsesameoil

Ifwontonshavebeenfrozen,cookinsaltedwateratalowboilfor5minutes,thentransfertoapotofsimmeringstockforanother5minutes.

Inalargepotonhighheat,bring6qt/Lwatertoarollingboil.

Inaseparatepotonmedium,heatstock,2cups(500mL)water,fishsauce,andginger.Bringtoaboil,reduceheattolowandsimmer.

To6qt/Lboilingwater,add2tbspkoshersaltandhomemadewontons.Cookforabout3minutes,thentransfertostocktofinishcooking,another3minutes.Tastestockandseasonwithsalt,ifnecessary.

Dividecabbagebetween4largesoupbowls.Placebokchoyinboilingwaterfor1minute,remove,andplace4piecesineachbowl.Place4wontonsineachbowlandfillwith1½cups(375mL)stock.Garnisheachbowlwithgreenonionsandadropofsesameoil.

HomemadeWontons

Makesapproximately82wontons.

EverycoupleofmonthsmywifeandIspendanhourmakingthesewontons,whichwefreezeoncookiesheets,thenbagandkeeponhandforaquickmeal.Abagoffrozenwontonsandatetra-packoflow-sodiumchickenstockturnsintoanicebreakfastorlunchinamatterofminutes.Notcomplicated,andverytasty.

2lb(1kg)groundpork3greenonions,chopped

3tbspgratedfreshginger½cup(125mL)finelychoppedwaterchestnuts

2tspkoshersalt1tspwhitepepper

1tbspsesameoil11lb(454g)packetwontonwrappers

Inalargemixingbowl,combinepork,greenonions,ginger,waterchestnuts,salt,pepper,andsesameoilandmixthoroughly.

Placeaclean,dryteatowelonworkingsurface.Fillasmallbowlwithtapwater.Laywontonwrapperonteatowelandplace2tspfillinginmiddle.Wetedges,folddiagonally,andgentlypressedgestoseal.Repeatuntilfillingisusedup.Arrangewontonsonacookiesheetcoveredbyadampteatoweluntilreadytocook.Orplacetrayinfreezerfor4hoursbeforestoringwontonsinlargefreezerbags.

ChickpeaSaladwithCilantroPestoThemightychickpeaisthesolutiontomanyofourmostpressingconundrums:WhatshouldIeatonMeatlessMondays?HowcanIbettercontrolmycholesterol?Whatfoodcanreducemyriskof

cancer?Whatistheworld’shealthiestandmostsustainableproteinsource?Mychickpeasaladisthedeliciousanswertoallthese

questions.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

2cups(500mL)chickpeas,cookedorcanned½cup(125mL)dicedyellowbellpeppers½cup(125mL)choppedgreenonions¾packedcup(185mL)choppedfreshcilantro

1tspcoarseseasalt⅛tspgroundblackpepper2tbsplimejuice

1garlicclove2½tbspextravirginoliveoil

Rinsechickpeasincoldwateranddrain.Inalargemixingbowl,combinechickpeas,peppers,andonions.

Inafoodprocessor,combinecilantro,salt,pepper,limejuice,garlic,andoliveoil,andpulseuntilsmooth.Pourcilantromixtureoverchickpeasandstirtocoat.Letstand30minutes.

HerbedTabboulehTabboulehisadelicioustemplateforcreativity.Iusemintandoreganotoflavorthisversion,butifyouhavedill,cilantro,

marjoram,oranytenderherb,feelfreetosubstitute—orbringeveryonetotheparty.

MAKES6SERVINGS

1cup(250mL)mediumgrainbulgur2cups(500mL)boilingwater1tspcoarseseasalt2tbsplemonjuice

2tbspoliveoil¼tspgroundblackpepper1packedcup(250mL)choppedparsley1tbspchoppedfreshmint

1tbspchoppedfreshoregano4greenonions,chopped½cup(125mL)dicedtomatoes

Inalargebowl,combinebulgurandboilingwater.Coverwithaplateandletstandfor30minutes.Drainandsetasidetocool.

Inalargebowl,combinesaltandlemonjuice,andstiruntilmostlydissolved.Addoliveoilandpepper.Stirinbulgur,parsley,mint,oregano,greenonions,andtomatoes,andtosstocoat.

Radish&WhiteBeanSaladCrunchyradishesandcreamycannellinibeansmergeina

delightful,brinyvinaigrette.

MAKES4SERVINGS

2anchovyfillets1tspDijonmustard

1tspgrainymustard½tspcoarseseasalt2tbspwhitewineorchampagnevinegar3tbspunfilteredextravirginoliveoil¼cup(60mL)choppedflat-leafparsley¼cup(60mL)choppedgreenonions1¼cups(310mL)cookedcannellinibeans1¼cups(310mL)dicedradishes

Inalargebowl,combineanchovies,Dijonandgrainymustard,andsalt.Withawoodenspoon,mashuntiltheanchoviesformapaste.

Addvinegarandoliveoilandstirtocombine.Addparsley,greenonions,cannellinibeans,andradishesandstirtocoat.Setasidefor1hourtomarinatebeforeserving.

QuickPickledShallotDressingTheshallotinthisdressingisraw,butthenaturalpungencyandheataremellowedwithasimplebrine,usingsaltandlemonjuice.

MAKES¼CUP(60ML)

1shallot,peeledandminced1tspcoarseseasalt

2tbsplemonjuice¼tspgroundblackpepper3tbspextravirginoliveoil1tbspmincedfreshoregano

1tspDijonmustard

Inasmallbowl,mashshallotsandsaltwithyourfingertips.Addlemonjuiceandpepperandsetasidefor15minutes.Addoliveoil,oregano,andmustard.Pourdressingintoasmalljarandsealwithalid.Shakebrisklyjustbeforeserving.

GoddessoftheRanchDressingFreshtarragon,parsley,anddillprovideherbaceouspunchtothisGreenGoddess/Ranchdressinghybrid.Serveoverfreshgreensoras

adipforcrudités.

MAKES1CUP(250ML)

½cup(125mL)oliveoilmayonnaise

2tbspbuttermilk½tspmustardpowder1garlicclove,minced2greenonions,chopped¼cup(60mL)choppedflat-leafparsley1½tbspchoppedfreshdill

1tbspchoppedfreshtarragon½tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper

1anchovyfillet

Inafoodprocessor,blendallingredientsuntilsmooth,about1minute.

Chicken&RainbowChardIfirstcreatedthisrecipeafterahelpfuldeercameandatealltheleavesoffmychardplantsonespring.Iusedtheremainingwhite,yellow,red,andgreenstalkstomakesupperthatnight.Sincethen,

it’sbecomesomethingofafavorite.

MAKES6SERVINGS

13–4lb(1.4–1.8kg)chicken,cutintopieces

1tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper¼cup(60mL)extravirginoliveoil2garliccloves,sliced1driedredchilipepper,crumbled2cups(500mL)dicedchardstalks2lb(1kg)plumtomatoes,chopped1cup(250mL)choppedchardleaves

2tbspkoshersalt1lb(500g)driedlinguini½cup(250mL)gratedPecorinocheese¼cup(125mL)choppedflat-leafparsleyorbasil

Don’tcrowdthepanwhensearingmeatormoisturewillbuildupandpreventitfrombrowning,whichbuildsdepthofflavor.

Intheoff-season,substitute128-oz(794-g)canofdicedtomatoesfor2lb(2kg)

freshtomatoes.

Seasonchickenonallsideswithsaltandpepper.Inalarge,flat-bottomedpanonmedium,heatoil.Addchickenandbrownonbothsides.Removechickenpieces,setaside,andaddgarlic,chili,andchardstalks.Sautétosoften,about3minutes,thenaddtomatoes.Whentomatoesstarttobreakdownintosauce,returnchickentopanwithchardleaves.Coverpanwithalidandletsimmerfor30minutes.Removechickenpiecesandsetasideagain.

Inalargepotonhighheat,bring6qt/Lwatertoaboil.Addsaltandlinguini,andcookfor6minutes.Drain,addpastatosauce,andsimmerfor5minutes.Topwithchickenpieces.Sprinklewithcheeseandparsley.

ChickenFricasseewithGardenVegetablesFricasseeisadishyoucanmakeatanytimeofyear,butitistrulyat

itsbestwhenyouhaveleeks,babycarrots,andpeasfromthegarden.(Dicedcarrotsandfrozenpeasarejustfinetherestoftheyear.)Becausethisdishiscookedonthebone,everybitofchickenflavorcomesthrough.It’saperfectwaytoprepareapasture-raisedchicken;thelongsimmeringtimeensurestendermeat.ServewithFrankShore’sDumplings(p.164)orCheddarDillBiscuits(p.163).

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

2tbspextravirginoliveoil,divided13–4lb(1.4–1.8kg)chicken,cutintopieces(or2½lb[1kg]bone-in,skin-onchickenbreasts)2tspkoshersalt,divided1tspgroundblackpepper,divided4cups(1L)low-sodiumchickenstockorwater

4bayleaves1cup(250mL)dicedcelery2cups(500mL)babycarrots1cup(250mL)mincedleeks(whitepartonly;reservegreensforstock)½cup(125mL)cream¼cup(60mL)all-purposeflour½cup(125mL)choppedflat-leafparsley1cup(250mL)peas

Pasture-raisedanimalsliveamorenaturallifeandeatamorenaturaldietthanthoseraisedinanindustrialsetting.Theresultingmeatalsohasafatprofilethat

ismorenutritiousforhumanbeings.Win-win.

Inalargeflat-bottomedpanonmedium,heat1tbspoliveoil.Seasonchicken

piecesonallsideswith1tspsaltandpepper.Placeskin-sidedowninpan.Frychickeninbatchestoavoidcrowding.Trynottomovechickenforatleast4minutes,whenitwillnaturallyreleasefrompanwithoutsticking.Frychickenuntilgoldenbrown,about5–6minutes.Turnpiecesandbrownforanother5minutes.Addstock,bayleaves,andanytrimmingsfromceleryandcarrots,darkgreentopsofleeks,andparsleystems.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmertwentyminutes.Turnchickenoverandsimmerforanother20minutes.Removechicken,discardskin,andsetaside.Straincookingbrothintoalargebowlandsetaside.Discardvegetabletrimmings.

CheddarDillBiscuits(p.163)

Placepanonmediumheatandadd1tbspoliveoil,celery,carrots,andleeks,andsautéuntilsoftened.Add3cups(750mL)cookingbrothandbringtoasimmer.Whiskcreamandflourtogetheruntilsmoothandaddtopan,stirringconstantlywithwhisktoincorporateandeliminatelumps.Simmeruntilthickened,about5minutes.Addremainingsaltandpeppertotaste.

Removechickenmeatfrombones,shredintobite-sizedpieces,andreturntopan.Simmergentlyfor10minutes.Stirinparsleyandpeas.Thinwithremainingstock,ifnecessary.

Usewhitepartofleeksinfricassee,butsavedarkgreenleektops,alongwithcarrottrimmings,parsleystems,andbottomsofcelerystalkstouseincooking

liquid.

BroiledSockeyewithGardenHerbsWild-caughtsockeyesalmoniscertifiedsustainablebySeaChoice,OceanWise,andtheMarineStewardshipCouncil(seep.89).While

therearesomeconcernsaboutspawningreturnsandhabitatdegradation,Pacificsockeyeisoneoftheworld’smostintensivelymanagedandstudiedfisheries.Fornow,itremainsabetterchoice

thanAtlanticsalmonfarmedinnetpens.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1sockeyefillet,pinbonesremoved⅛tspkoshersalt⅛tspgroundblackpepper1garlicclove,minced

1tspwhitewine1tbspextravirginoliveoil2tspDijonmustard

2tspgrainymustard½tbspfinelychoppedfreshrosemary

1tspfreshthymeleaves

Toremovepinbonesfromsalmonfillet:Laysalmonskin-sidedownandrunyourfingertipsalongthickestpartoffillettofindtipsofpinbones.Useapairofcleanneedle-noseplierstograspendofeachbone;pullgentlyindirection

bonespoint,usuallya45°angletowardthickendofthefillet.Ikeepasetofpliersaroundstrictlyforkitchenjobs.

Preheatbroilertohigh.Placesalmonskin-sidedownonacookiesheetlinedwithfoil.(Youcanthankmeforthattiplater.)Seasonsalmonwithsaltandpepper.Mashgarlictoapasteusingflatsideofaknife.

Inasmallmixingbowl,combinegarlic,wine,oliveoil,andDijonandgrainymustard.

Broilsalmononmiddlerackfor5minutes.Removefromoven.Applygarlicmixtureevenlyoverfish,sprinklewithrosemaryandthyme,andbroilsalmonuntilthickestpartoffilletisfirmtothetouch,about5–10minutes.

Toaddanotherdimensionofflavor,placesalmononasoakedcedarplankandbakeonhighheatonyouroutdoorbarbecuegrillwiththeliddownuntilfirmto

thetouch.

Clockwisefromtopright:RicePilaf(p.55),BroildedSockeyewithGardenHerbs(opposite),Radish&WhiteBeanSalad(p.36)

GardenVarietyLettuceWrapsKidslovefoodtheycanbuildatthetable.(Ido,too!)Lettucewrapsaretraditionallymadewithgroundpork,whichcancontainasmuchastwentypercentfat.Lowerthefatbyusingleanground

turkeyinstead.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1tbspcanolaoil1lb(500g)groundporkorturkey

1tbspgratedginger18-oz(227-g)tinwaterchestnuts,finelychopped½cup(125mL)gratedcarrot18-oz(227-g)tinbambooshoots,finelydiced½cup(125mL)choppedgreenonions2tbspoystersauce1tspsesameoil2tbsplightsoysauce

2tspcornstarch1tbspChinesericewineorsherry5oz(150g)crispydriedchowmeinnoodles1cup(250mL)beansprouts

12iceberglettuceleaves

Lettucewrapsaretraditionallymadewithiceberglettuceleaves,butIoftenhaveanoversupplyofchard.Perhapsyoudo,too.Ifyoufeeladventurous,trysubstitutingchardleavesblanchedinboilingwaterfor30seconds.

Inalargewokonhigh,heatoilandswirltocoat.Addporkandstir-fry,breakingupmeatuntilcookedthrough.Stiringinger,waterchestnuts,carrots,bambooshoots,andgreenonions.

Inasmallbowl,combineoystersauce,sesameoil,andsoysauce.Pourovermeatmixtureinpan.Inaseparatebowl,whiskcornstarchandricewine,thenpourovermeatmixture.Stirgentlyuntilsaucethickens.Removefromheatandstirinchowmeinnoodlesandbeansprouts.

Toserve,place¼–½cup(60–125mL)meatfillingoneachlettuceleaf.Rollhalfleafovermixture,foldsidesin,andfoldremainingflapovertop.

VealScallopiniwithParsleyCaperSauceThesauceforthisdishismadetheminutethemeatleavesthepan,addingflavor,freshness,andluxuriousrichness—asimplebut

effectiveFrenchtechnique.YoucanfindvealscallopiniatanygoodItalianbutchershop.Askyourbutchertorunitthrough“the

machine,”adevicethatmakessmallslicesthroughthecutletforaddedtenderness.Hewillnodandsmileatyourinsiderknowledge.Forthoseofyouwhoavoideatingveal,substitutechickenbreastspoundedthinandfriedforanextraminute,soit’scookedthrough.

ServethiswithParsleyButterNoodles(p.59).

MAKES4SERVINGS

1tspkoshersalt½tsppepper4vealcutlets,¼-in(6-mm)thick1cup(250mL)all-purposeflour2–3tbspextravirginoliveoil

2tbspwhitewine½cup(125mL)low-sodiumchickenstock2tbspcapers2tbsplemonjuice

2tbspbutter½cup(125mL)choppedparsleyleaves

Combinesaltandpepperandusehalfmixturetoseasonvealonbothsides.Combineremainderofsaltandpepperwithflouranddredgeveal.

Inalargesautépanonmedium-high,heat2tbspoliveoil.Frycutletsquickly,about1minuteaside,untillightlybrowned.Removefrompanandsetvealaside.Addmoreoiltopan,ifnecessary,thenadd1tbspdredgingflourandheatuntilfragrant,about1minute.Removefromheatandwhiskinwineandstock.Returnpantoheatandwhiskuntilsaucethickens.Stirincapersandlemonjuice.Tastesauceandseasonwithsaltandpepper,ifdesired.Stirinbutteruntilmelted.Addparsley.Poursauceovervealandserveimmediately.

TheGreenMan’sMeatloafIlovemeatloafsomuchthateverytimemywifegoesoutoftown,Itrytoliveonit.Evenpeoplewhodon’tlikemeatloaf(trustme,theyareoutthere)willlikethisone.Ifyouhaven’tmademycatsup,just

usestore-bought.Iwon’tsayanything.

MAKES6SERVINGS

1lb(500g)leangroundbeef1lb(500g)groundpork1cup(250mL)breadcrumbs2cups(500mL)choppedfreshspinach2tbspchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley2tbspchoppedfreshbasil

2largeeggs¼cup(60mL)beeforchickenstock¼cup(60mL)FreshTomatoCatsup(p.120)1plum-sizedtomato,minced

1tspkoshersalt

2tspLouisiana-stylehotsauce

1tspWorcestershiresauce

Somepeoplelikeaglazeonmeatloaf.Ifyouareoneofthesepeople,simply

brushtheoutsideoftheloafwithFreshTomatoCatsuphalfwaythroughthecookingprocess.

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Placebeef,pork,breadcrumbs,spinach,parsley,andbasilinalargebowlandmixlightly,breakingupmeatwithyourfingers.Inaseparatebowl,combineeggs,stock,catsup,tomato,salt,hotsauce,andWorcestershiresauce.Pourwetingredientsovermeatmixtureandcombinewell.

Lineabakingsheetwithfoilandformaloafabout12×5in(30.5×13cm).Refrigeratefor1hour.

Bakefor1hourand15minutesoruntilinternaltemperaturereaches165°F(75°C).Letstandfor5minutesbeforeservinginthickslices.

KangarooMeatballsinRoastedRedPepperSauceKangarooisavailableinNorthAmericafromspecialtybutcher

shopsandgamemeatsuppliers.Ifyouworryabouttheimpactthatindustrialmeatproductionhasontheplanet,kangaroomightbetheanswertoyourconcerns.Ithasatastenotunlikemildvenisonandahealthieromega-3toomega-6fattyacidratiothanbeef.Ifyouknowahunter,groundelkorvenisonisagoodsubstitutewhere

kangarooisn’tavailable.Servewithriceorpasta,orasanappetizerplatterthatwillkeeptheconversationhopping.

MAKES4SERVINGS

ROASTEDREDPEPPERS:

4redbellpeppers

ROASTEDREDPEPPERSAUCE:

1tbspoliveoil1garlicclove,minced½cup(125mL)dicedonions

2roastedredbellpeppers3cups(750mL)dicedtomatoes

1tspcoarseseasalt½tspgroundblackpepper

Ifyouarepressedfortime,usestore-boughtroastedredpepperstospeedthingsup.

ROASTEDREDPEPPERSWithagasstove:Turnflametohighandplaceanentireredpepperonburner.Turnwithtongsonceperminuteuntilskinhasblackened.Underabroiler:Preheatbroilertohigh.Placepeppersonabakingsheetonhighestrackofoven.Asskinblackens,turnpepperswithtongs.

Whenpeppersareblackenedovermostoftheirsurface,placetheminapaperbagandclosetoseal.Wait10minuteswhilepepperssoftenandcool.Removefrombagandloosenskinwithfingertipstoremove.Splitpepperwithaknifeandremovestemandseeds.

ROASTEDREDPEPPERSAUCEInalargesaucepanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautégarlicandonionsuntilsoft,about3minutes.Diceroastedredpeppersandaddtosaucepan.Addtomatoes,salt,andpepperandsimmeruntiltomatoessweeten.(Justtasteitevery15minutesorso;you’llknowwhenyou’rethere.)Inafoodprocessor,pulsemixture1cup(250mL)atatime.Setaside.

ROOBALLS:1lb(500g)groundkangaroo¼cup(60mL)finebreadcrumbs¼cup(60mL)mincedonions1garlicclove,minced1largeegg

1tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper½tspdriedoregano½tspdriedthyme½cup(125mL)choppedfreshparsley

1tbspwater

1–2tbspoliveoil

Inalargemixingbowl,crumblemeatwithyourfingers.Addremainderofingredientsexceptoliveoilandkneaduntilwellcombined.Forminto1-in(2.5-cm)balls.

Inalargecast-ironfryingpanonmedium-high,heatoliveoil.Searmeatballsonallsides.AddRoastedRedPepperSauceandsimmerfor20minutes.

ItalianSausageMeatballsSausagemeatballsareverytastywhensimmeredinArrabiataSauce(p.156)andservedoverpasta.Makethemaheadoftimeandfreeze,thencookthemforaneasyweeknightmealorchopthemupasa

toppingforpizza(p.194).

MAKES12MEATBALLS

1lb(500g)groundporkshoulder1tbspfennelseeds,crushed1tbsphotpaprika

2tbspredwine¼tspgroundblackpepper⅛tspgroundnutmeg

2tspkoshersalt1garlicclove,minced

1tbspfreshoreganoleaves2tbspoliveoil,forfrying

Withwholespicessuchasfennelseedsinthisrecipe,youmeasurefirst,thencrush.Ifyoudoittheotherway,youhavetoguesshowmuchwholespicewill

maketherightamountcrushed.

Inalargebowl,combinepork,fennelseeds,paprika,redwine,pepper,nutmeg,salt,garlic,andoregano.Mixvigorouslywithhandsoralargespoonforabout1minute.

Tomakemeatballs,roll2tbspmeatmixturebetweenyourpalmstoformaball.Inafryingpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Frymeatballsinbatchesuntilbrownedandfirmtothetouch.

SaagPaneerWhenIgolookingforwaystousegardengreens,IoftenturntoIndiancuisine.Saagpaneeriscreamedspinachwithcrispy,friedpaneer,ahome-styleIndiancheesewithatexturelikeextra-firm

tofu—so,foraveganmeal,youcaneasilysubstitutetofu.Anddon’tgetstuckonusingonlyspinachforthisdish;anytendergreens

fromthegardenwillwork.Considerturnipgreens,kale,beettops,orchardtoreplacesomeorallofthespinach.Iliketomixitup.ServewithRicePilaf(p.55)orSuperSimplePitaBread(p.62).

MAKES4SERVINGS

1lb(500g)spinach½lb(250g)paneer

2tbspcanolaoil¾cup(185mL)mincedleeks,whiteandpalegreenpartsonly2tspgroundcoriander2tspgroundcumin

1tspblackmustardseeds¼tspcayennepepper1½tspkoshersalt½cup(125mL)yogurt

Fillakettlewith2qt/Lwaterandbringtoaboil.Inalargemixingbowl,addspinachandpourboilingwaterovertop.Letstandfor3minutes,thendrain.Inafoodprocessor,puréespinach.

Cutpaneerinto¾-in(2-cm)cubes.Inalargenon-stickfryingpanonmedium,heatoil.Addpaneerandfryuntilbrownedonthreesides.

Removepaneerandsetaside.Tofryingpan,addleeksandsautéuntilgolden,about3minutes.Addcoriander,cumin,andmustardseeds,andstirfor1minute.Addspinach,cayenne,salt,and½cup(125mL)water.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheattolowandsimmerfor20minutes.Removefromheatandstirinyogurt.Returnpaneertopanandcoatwithspinachmixture.

SautéedChard&OnionsIknowchardisn’tthemostpopularvegetable.Inthesocialhierarchyofthesupermarket,broccoliandcarrotsare

quarterbackingthefootballteamandcaptainingthecheerleadingsquad,andromainelettuceisthatMexicanexchangestudentthateveryoneseemstolikemorethantheylikeyou.Highschoolsucks,

butcharddoesn’thaveto.

MAKES4SERVINGS

2tbspoliveoil½cup(125mL)dicedonions½tspseasalt4garliccloves,minced1bunchrainbowchard,about6largestalks

1tbspredwinevinegarsaltandgroundblackpepper,totaste

Chardgrowsvigorouslyinthegarden,producingtenderstalksandlarge,darkgreenleaves.Chardcanalsobegrownsuccessfullyin2-or3-gallonpotswell

intothefall.

Mulchchardwith6in(15cm)ofbrownleavesorcompostbeforethefirsthardfrostofthewinter,andthere’sagoodchanceitwillcomebackinearlyspring,

longbeforeit’ssafetoplantseedsforanyothercrop.

Inaflat-bottomedpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addonionsandsalt,andsautéuntilsoft,about5minutes.Addgarlicandsautéforanotherminute.Separatechardstalksfromleavesanddice.

Addchardstalkstopanandsautéfor2minutes.Cutchardleavesinto1in(2.5cm)stripsandaddtopanwithvinegar,turninguntilwilted.Tasteandseasonwithsaltandpepper,ifdesired.

SicilianChardDependingonwhereyoulive,overwinteringchardislikelytobethefirstvegetabletoachieveprodigiousproductionwhenspringarrives.

Whenitdoes,thisisadeliciousandsimplewaytoprepareit.

MAKES6SERVINGS

1tbspoliveoil1garlicclove,thinlysliced½tspcrushedchiliflakes2cups(500mL)dicedchardstalks

1tspcoarseseasalt4cups(1L)choppedchardleaves

1tbsplemonjuice1tbspunfilteredextravirginoliveoil

Inalargeflat-bottomedpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addgarlicandchilies,stirringfor1minute.Addchardstalksandsaltandsautéuntilsoftened,about3minutes.Addchardleavesandsautéfor3minutestowiltandreducemoisture.

Transfermixturetoaservingdishanddrizzlewithlemonjuiceandoliveoil.

WildRice&GreensMywifeDarcycameupwiththisdish,loadedwithfiberand

antioxidants,asahealthyvegetarianmealfortwo.Experimentwithdifferentmushroomsandleafygreenstochangeitup.

MAKES2SERVINGS(OR4ASASIDE)

1shallot,minced

2tbspbutter1cup(250mL)slicedwhitemushrooms½tspkoshersalt¼tspgroundblackpepper1cup(250mL)mixedbrownandwildrice1¾cupslow-sodiumchickenstockorwater1½cups(375mL)choppedlacinatokale¼cup(60mL)sunflowerseeds(optional)

Commercialstocksareoftenseasonedwithsalt.Whenmakingarecipethatcallsforbothstockandsalt,holdbackonaddingsomeorallofthesaltuntilyou’re

surethedishneedsit.

Inapotonmedium-lowheat,sautéshallotsinbutterfor2minutes.Addmushrooms,salt,andpepperandsautéfor3minutes.Addriceandstirtocoatwithbutter,thenaddstockandkale.Tastecookingliquidandseasonwithsalt,ifdesired.Increaseheattohighandbringtoaboilfor2minutes.

Coverwithalid,reduceheattolow,andcookfor50minutes.Loosenricewithafork,replacelid,turnoffheat,andleavepotonburnerfor15minutes.Topwithsunflowerseedsandserve.

RicePilafAcolorfulsidedishforRedLentilDal(p.58)orBroiledSalmon(p.

42).Chooseasaucepanwithatight-fittinglid.

MAKES4SERVINGS

2tbspoliveoil¼cup(60mL)mincedshallot1garlicclove,minced½cup(125mL)finelydicedcarrot1cup(250mL)basmatirice½tspturmeric1½cups(375mL)low-sodiumstock

1tspkoshersalt½cup(125mL)freshpeas¼cup(60mL)sliveredalmonds

Inasaucepanonmedium,heatoil.Addshallotsandsautéuntilsoft,about3minutes.Addgarlicandcarrots,andstirfor1minute.Addrice(dry,don’trinseit),andstiruntilcoatedinoil.Addturmeric,stock,andsalt,andbringtoaboil.Reduceheattolow.Coverwithlidandcookfor10minutes.

Turnheatoff,leavingpotcoveredonburnerforanother10minutes.Stirinpeasandletsitfor5minutes.Topwithsliveredalmonds.

SpicyBroccoliRabewithPastaSomevegetablesaremeantforgrown-uptastebuds,andbroccolirabemaybetopofthelist.Alsoknownasrapini,thisslightlybittergreen,relatedtoturnips,hatesgrowingintheheat,preferringthecoolsoilsofspringandautumn.Thisdishstandsupasamealonitsownorasasidethatincorporatesstarchandagreenvegetablein

one.Youcanalsosubstitutebroccoliorgailan,whicheverislookinggoodinthegardenthatday.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

2tbspkoshersalt,forpastawater⅓cup(80mL)walnuthalves

1tbspextravirginoliveoil5stripsbacon,cutinto¼-in(6-mm)strips1mediumonion,halvedandthinlysliced1garlicclove,minced1tspfennelseeds,crushed1driedredchilipepper,crumbled1lb(500g)broccolirabe1lb(500g)driedfarfalle(bow-tiepasta)½cup(125mL)gratedParmesancheese

Broccoli’ssweetsecret:Whenyouharvestbroccoli,cutoffplentyofstemwiththemainfloret.Forthisdish,ifyouusebroccoliinsteadofrabe,usebothfloretsandheartofbroccolistem.Useaknifetocutawaythetoughskinontheoutside

ofthestemtorevealthesweetestandmosttenderpartoftheplant.

Inalargepotonhighheat,bring6qt/Lwaterandsalttoaboil.

Inasautépanonmediumheat,toastwalnutsforabout2minutes,stirringfrequentlytopreventburning.Removewalnutsfrompan,crumblewithyourfingers,andsetaside.Insamepan,warmoliveoil.Addbaconandfryuntilcrispy.Addonions,garlic,fennelseeds,andchili.Cookuntilonionsarelightlybrowned.Cutbroccolirabeinto2-in(5-cm)pieces;separatethickstemsfromslendertopsandleaves.Addbroccolirabestemstopanandcookfor2minutes,thenaddleaves.Reduceheattolow.

Addpastatoboilingwaterandcookaldente,accordingtopackagedirections.Drainpasta,reserving1cup(250mL)water.Addpasta,cheese,andalittlereservedpastawatertopanandtossgentlytocombine.Addmorewater,alittleatatime,toformacreamysauce.Garnisheachservingwithtoastedwalnuts.

RedLentilDalDalisasouporstewmadefromlentilsthat’sservedinvirtually

everycornerofIndia.Lentilsarehighinfiberandprotein—andaperfectchoiceifyouarecuttingbackonmeatforthesakeoftheplanetoryourownhealth.Icollectcorianderseedsfrommy

overgrowncilantroplantsandtopthedishwithfreshcilantroleavesfromtheyoungerplants.ServewithRicePilaf(p.55).

MAKES4SERVINGS

1cup(250mL)redlentils2plumtomatoes,chopped¼tspgroundturmeric1½tspgroundcumin

1tspgroundcoriander½tspkoshersalt2greenchilipeppers,minced

3tbspcanolaoil3garliccloves,minced1cup(250mL)dicedonions

2tbspchoppedcilantroleaves

Rinselentilsthoroughlyincoldwateranddrain.Inasaucepanonhighheat,bringlentilstoaboilin2¼cups(530mL)water.Removesurfacescumwitha

spoon.Addtomatoes,turmeric,cumin,andcoriander,andbringtoaboilagain.Reduceheatandsimmerfor40minutes.Addsaltandchiliesandsimmerforanother10minutes.

Inafryingpanonmedium,heatoil.Sautégarlicandonionsuntilgoldenbrown,about5minutes.Combinelentilandonionmixturesandtopwithcilantro.

ParsleyButterNoodlesIwrestledwithmyselfoverwhethertoincludethisrecipe,andthenIwrestledwithmyselfoverwhetheritreallyisevenarecipe.Despiteitssimplicity,Ireallylikethecombinationofingredients—andI

neverpassuptheopportunitytoaddmoregreentoaplate.ServeasasidewithVealScallopini(p.46).

MAKES4SERVINGS

12oz(340g)driedeggnoodles¼cup(60mL)saltedbutter

2tbspoliveoil½cup(125mL)choppedflat-leafparsley

Inalargepotonhighheat,cooknoodlesin6qt/Lwater,accordingtopackagedirections.Drainandreturntopot.Addbutter,oliveoil,andparsleyandcoverwithalidfor2minutes.Stirandserveimmediately.

TheOriginalRhubarb-BlueberryCrumbleOldrecipescanbeachallenge.Ihavebindersfullofhand-writtenrecipesonyellowedpaper,withnooventemperatureordirections.Somelistingredientswithoutamounts.Ifyouweregoingtocook

backintheday,itwasjustassumedthatyoulearnedtherecipefromMomorNana.Inthetime-honoredtraditionofmyancestors,I

presenttoyouacrumblethewayNanausedtodoit,butI’vegivenyoumeasuredamountsandanoventemperatureforyour

convenience.Servehotwithabigscoopofvanillaicecream.

MAKES6–8SERVINGS

TOPPING:½cup(125mL)saltedbutter1cup(250mL)rolledoats½cup(125mL)all-purposeflour¾cup(185mL)brownsugar½cup(125mL)choppedwalnutsandpecans½tspgroundcinnamon

FILLING:6cups(1.5L)dicedrhubarb2cups(500mL)blueberriesorblackberries¼cup(60mL)whitesugar1tbspgratedfreshginger

2tbspcornstarch

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Inalargebowl,addalltoppingingredients.Combinewellwithyourhandsto

formaball,thensetaside.

Inalarge(8×11.5×2-in[20×29×5-cm])bakingdish,combineallfillingingredients.Stiruntilcombined.Crumbletoppingmixtureoverfillingandbakeuntilfruitisbubblingandtoppingbrowned,about45minutes.

SuperSimplePitaBreadIgetthatpeopleareafraidtomakebread.Bakingischemistry—getonecomponentwrongordosomethinginthewrongorder,and

disasterisyourstowearlikeanalbatross.Pitaistheexception:therecipeisshort,thetechniquesimple,andtheresultassured.ServewithLamb&SpinachKebabs(p.144)orSaagPaneer(p.51).

MAKES8PITAS

1tbspfast-actingyeast2½cups(625mL)warmwater3cups(750mL)breadflour1½tspkoshersalt2tbspoliveoil,divided1½cups(375mL)all-purposeflour1cup(250mL)wholewheatflour

Pitadoughhastorisetwicefor1houreachtime,whichgivesyouplentyoftimetohaveaglassofwineortwo.

Youcanalsogrillpitaonahotbarbecue.Preheattohighandgrillforabout1minuteoneachsidewiththeliddown,untilpitasarepuffyandsteaming.

Inalargemixingbowl,combineyeastandwater.Addbreadflour1cup(250mL)atatime,usingaspoontoincorporateflourandliquid.Stirfor1minute,untilsmooth.Coverbowlwithbeeswaxwraporclingfilmandsetinawarmlocationfor1hour.

Addsaltand1tbspoliveoiltomixtureandstirinall-purposeandwholewheatflouruntildoughforms.Coatworkingsurfacewithall-purposeflourandturn

doughout.Kneaduntildoughissmoothandelastic,addingmoreflourasrequired.Coatinsideofaseparatebowlwithremainingoliveoilandplacedoughinside.Coverandplaceinawarmlocationuntilitdoublesinsize,about1hour.

Placeabakingsheetorpizzastoneinmiddleofovenandpreheatto500°F(260°C).Cutdoughinto8pieces.Formeachpieceintoaballandplaceonaflouredsurface.Rolleachintoacircleabout8in(2cm)across.Bakeforabout3minutes,untilpuffyandjustbrowned.

SummerASeasonofEdibleDelights

Thegrowingseasonisaparadeofdeliciousfirsts.Rhubarbemergesafterthegroundthaws,followedquicklybypeasandbroadbeans.Ican’twaittocollectacupoffreshpeastomashwithParmesanandoliveoil,adeliriousmomentthatcomesbutonceayear.Thefirstbasilbegetsthefirstfreshpesto.Thencomenewpotatoesandbabycarrots,ofteninquantitiesthatthreatentooverwhelmthekitchenandthecook.

Eachnewcropisanoccasionforcelebrationandreflection.Thereisnothinginstantaboutgrowingyourownfood,butthegratificationisveryreal.Theearth’srhythmsaredecidedlylanguidcomparedtothepaceofurbanlife.Strawberriesarriveontheirownschedule,andtheydon’tstaylong,sowhenIeatoneinthegarden,Ioftenfindmyselfsittingdowntofeelthesunonmyface.Idon’treallyevencultivatestrawberries;theygrowvoluntarilyfromthecracksbetweentherocksinmyretainingwall,asiftorewardmefortakingafewminutestovisitthegarden.

Withfoodgardening,timeisreckonedinseasons,ratherthanininstantupdatesandsmartphonealertchimes.Itlowersmybloodpressuretorunthehoseoverthemorning’sradishharvest;itgroundsmetosharewithmyneighborswhateverisinabundancethatday.ItisparticularlysatisfyingtositdowntoafamilymealoffoodsthatIhavegrownmyselfandpickedatthepeakoffreshnesswhentheirnutritionalvalueishighest.BysourcingvegetablesfromthegardenorfrommylocalfarmersmarketIfeelsecurethatnopesticidesorotherchemicalshavecomeincontactwithmyfood.

Insummer,thegardenreallyisyourfridgeandyourgrocerystore.Youneedn’tburnanygastopickupfoodfordinnerwhenitgrowsonthebalcony,underthekitchenwindow,andalloverthebackyard.Goshoppinginthefreshair,andwhileyou’reoutthere,stopandeatastrawberryorahandfulofpeas.

TOUGHENUPYOURTRANSPLANTSBeingtransplantedintothegardenisatraumaticexperienceforaseedling.Afterspendinganywherefromfourtotwelveweeksonawarmwindowsillorinacommercial-gradegreenhouseatyourlocalnursery,tenderyoungplantsarevulnerabletoextremesoftemperatureandeventodirectsunlight.Thegreenhouseenvironmentmaybebright,butitdoesnotallowtheintenseradiationofdirectsunlighttopenetrate.Sunburncandamageorevenkillayoungplant.

Placeatallpailoranemptyplanter1in(2.5cm)tothesouthofnewtransplantstoprovidetemporaryshadeatmidday.

Seedlingsshouldbecarefullyhardenedoffintheyardbeforebeingtransplantedtoensuretheyareequippedtosurvivelowovernighttemperaturesinearlyspringorfullsunifyouaretransplantingduringthesummer.Fortheirfirstnightoutside,choosealocationthatisshelteredandclosetothehouse,whereitisusuallyafewdegreeswarmerthantherestoftheyard.Duringhotsummerweather,protecttheseedlingsfromthesunatmidday,butmakesuretheygetsomedirectsuninthemorningandlateafternoon.Continuethisprocessforthreetosevendays.

Seedlingstransplantedintothegardeninearlyspringshouldbeprotectedifthereisanydangeroffrost.Asimpleclochemadefroma4-qt/Lmilkjugwiththebottomandcapremovedcanbeplacedoverseedlingsiftheweatherturnsunexpectedlycold.Theclochewillalsogainheatfromthesunduringtheday,whichspeedsgrowth.

Inhotsummerweather,transplantlateintheday.Themovefrompottogardensoilisashock,andyourseedlingswillneedallnightandmoretorecover.Evensun-loverssuchastomatoesareeasilydamagedrightaftertransplanting.Forlargeplantssuchastomatovines,cauliflower,broccoli,andkale,add½cup(125mL)BasicFertilizerMix(p.14)tothesoilwithwell-rottedcompost,and“mud”therootballinwithplentyofwater.

Inhot,sunnyweather,transplantedlettuceseedlingsshouldbeprotectedfrommiddaysunforatleastaweek.Plantlettucestothenorthandeastoftallerplantstotakeadvantageoftheshadetheyprovideduringthehottestpartoftheday.

COMPANIONPLANTINGANDNATURALSUCCESSIONCompanionplantingisapopularthemeingardenlore.Organicgardenersputcertainplantstogethertoprotectvulnerablecropsfrompredatorsrangingfromdeertobeetles.Or—lessbelievably—toenhancetheflavorsofcertainvegetables,suchasbasil’ssupposedlymagicalinfluenceontheflavoroftomatoes.Mostofthewidelyrecognizedtenetsofcompanionplantingremainverymuchintherealmoffolkwisdom,though,asthereislittlecrediblesciencetobacktheirclaims.

Youcan,however,useaformofcompanionplanting—whatIcallsuccessionplanting—toincreasetheproductivityofsomeofyourgardenbeds.HereareafewtricksthatIuse:

Growfastandslow,together:Sowradishesandcarrotstogetherinspring,

alternatingseedsaboutaninchapartinrows6in(15cm)apart.That’shalfthenormalrowspacing.Theradisheswillmatureandbeharvestedwithinfiveweeks,aboutthetimethatslower-growingcarrotsbegintobulkup.Radishestakelittleinthewayofnutrientsfromthesoilandthecarrotsbenefitfromtheextraspaceatthisstage.Harvestbabycarrotsatthebeginningofsummer,andbegintointroducebroccoliorcauliflowerseedlingsinthenewlyavailablespace.

Growplantsthatnourishoneanother:Plantspinachseedsamongmaturingpeavines.Peascollectnitrogenfromtheatmosphereandstoreitinnodulesontheirrootsystem.Spinachisaheavynitrogenfeeder.Whenyouharvestpeas,cutthevinesoffatthesoil,leavingtheroots—andthenitrogen—inplace.

Makemini-microclimates:Plantzucchiniseedlings3ft(1m)apartandsprinkleafewarugulaseedsinbetween,coveringthemlightly.Theshadefromthezucchinileaveswillhelpthecool-weatherarugulathriveinthesummerheat.

Combineearly-,middle-,andlate-seasonvegetables:Sowmesclungreenssuchasmizuna,cornsalad,andradicchioinspring.Justsprinkletheseedsaroundthebedandraketheminlightly.Asyouharvesttenderyounggreensinlatespring,plantchardseedsintothespacesleftbythedepartingmescluns.Byearlysummer,thegreenswillhaveruntheircourse,andyoucanplantNapacabbageandcollardsintheremainingspaces.TheNapacabbagewillbereadytoharvestinSeptember,leavingspacefortheexpandingwingspanofthecollards.Harvestcollardleavesfromthebottomoftheplantthroughoutthewinter,wheretheclimateallowsit.

HOWTOGROWTOMATOESTomatoesthrivethroughlong,hot,drysummers.Agoodgrowingseasoncandeliverhundredsoftomatoesfromamodestnumberofvines,especiallyinland.Nearthecoast,it’smorehitandmiss.Tomatovinesarereasonablyresistanttocoldinlatespring,butquicklysuccumbtoblightiftheweatherturnswetattheendofsummer.Crowdingtomatoesreducesaircirculationandpromotesblight,soplantyourvines3ft(1m)apart.(Ifyoudogethitwithblight,don’tputthevinesinyourcompost.Removethemfromtheproperty.)

Toextendyourharvest,chooseamixofearly-andlate-bearingvarietiesandaselectionofsaucetomatoes(AmishPaste,Roma,SanMarzano)andeatingtomatoes(BlackKrim,Stupice,PrudensPurple,BlackCherry,GoldNugget).

Pottedtomatoeswillgrowcomfortablyinfive-galloncontainers.Usecleansoilfromthegardencenterandblendwith1cup(250mL)BasicFertilizerMix(p.14).Whenthefirstfruitappears,feedthevineswithhigh-phosphorusliquidfertilizer,suchasabloomingformula.

Toprotectthemfromdryingout,planttomatovinesdeeply,sothatthelowerleafstemsareatthesoil’ssurface.Trimawaythebottomleavesandmudtherootballinwithplentyofwater.

Chooseasunnylocationinthegarden,preferablynearasouth-facingwallorfence,toplanttomatoseedlings.Reflectedheatisarealbonus,especiallylateinthegrowingseason,whenitpromotesripening.

Pottedorinthegarden,tomatoesneedsupporttostayofftheground.Usethestrongeststakesyoucanfind,andtiethevinesaboutevery12in(30.5cm)withcottontwine.SomepeopleIknowuserebartostake,whichusedtosoundabitcrazytome.Thatis,untilmyone-by-twowoodenstakesstartedsnappingliketwigsonesummerundertheweightofthefruit.

Mosthomegardentomatoesareindeterminate,meaningtheykeepgrowingaslongasconditionsofsun,moisture,andnutritionarefavorable.Thefast-spreadingvinesarealsotheirownworstenemy,sproutingnewvinescalled“suckers”thatliterallysuckthelifeoutoftheplant,usingupnutrientsthatcouldbesettingfruit.

Whenthefirstflowerbudsappearonyourvine,cutorbreakoffallthesuckervinesbelowtheflowers.Thesuckersgrowupwardsfromthejunctionswhereleafstemsattachtothemainstem.Ifyouleavethesuckerslongenough,theywillcreateanimpenetrablejungleoffoliageandyouwon’tgetmuchfruit.Checkyourvinesatleastweeklyfornewsuckersandbreakthemoff.

Peopleswearthatplantingbasilwithtomatoesprotectsthemfromharmfulinsects.Maybe,maybenot.IdoknowthatwheneverIpickatomatoIimmediatelylookforbasilbecausetheygotogetherinsomanyoutstandingdishes,soplantingthemtogethermakessense.Basilalsothrivesonthewarm,moist,shelteredgrowingconditionsfavoredbytomatoes,soit’sagoodmatchin

thatsense,too.

HOWTOGROWASPARAGUSWhenyoudecidetogrowasparagus,youaremakingamulti-yearcommitment.Yourasparagusfernsaregoingtobeafixtureinthegardenforuptotwentyyears,andyouwillcareforyoungfernsforatleasttwentymonthsbeforeyoueatyourfirstspear.Don’tworry,it’snotdifficult—andfreshasparagusissoworthit.

Therearetwopathsyoucantakeonyourquestforasparagus:Youcanbuycrowns—expensivelittlepre-grownrootsystems—orplantfromseed.I’vedonebothandfoundseedsproducehealthyasparagusplantsjustasfastascrownsforone-tenththeprice.Consultagoodregionalseedsuppliertoobtainanasparagusvarietywell-suitedtolocalgrowingconditions.Theseedsneedconsistentmoistureandwarmsoiltogerminate,sowaituntilJunetoplant.(Ifyouhaveagreenhouseorsolarium,youcanstarttwomonthsearlier.)

Inlatespring,fillten4-inchpotswithsterilepottingmixandplantthreetofourseedsperpot.Placethepotsinawarm,shelteredlocation,andbepreparedtowaitatleastonemonthtoseesprouts.Keepthemwateredthroughoutthesummer.Bymid-September,youshouldhavetenspindly,foot-high(30.5-cm)fernstotransplant.

Locationisimportanttoasparagus.Theywon’tbemoving,atleastnotforthenextdecade,somakesureyougetthesoilinreallygoodshape.Pickasunny,well-drainedlocation.Waterloggedrootswilldie;deepsandysoilonhighergroundispreferable.Digthesoildeeplyandmixinwell-compostedmanureand1cup(250mL)BasicFertilizerMix(p.14)foreachpotofseedlings.

Planttheseedlingssothattherootballsare6in(15cm)belowthesurfacetogivethemaccesstomoisture,evenindryspells.Also,thedeepertherootball,theeasieritwillbetoweedwithoutharmingtheroots.Fillintheholewithwaterandsoiltoabout2in(5cm)abovetherootball.Waitacoupleofweeksandthenfillintherestoftheholewithwell-rottedcompost.Mulchtheentirerowwitha6-in(15-cm)layerofshreddedleavestostabilizethemoisturelevelsinthesoil.

Thenextspring,thinbutrecognizableasparagusspearswillgrow.Donoteatthefirstyear’sgrowth,astheplantneedstheenergyproducedbythefernstoestablishastrongrootsystem.Keepthefernsmulched,andapplyliquidfishfertilizereverythreemonthsduringthegrowingseason.Yourfirstharvestwillcomeinthesecondspring.

Overtime,therootsystemsbeneaththesoilwillmultiply,requiringyoutodigthecrownsup,separatethem,andreplantinanexpandedbed.(Theyalso

makegreatgiftsforothergardeners.)Onceyouroriginalasparagusbedisfourtofiveyearsold,waitforlatefall

whentheplantisdormantanddigupthefirstplantinyourrow,takingcarenottodamagetheroots.Justdooneperyear.Gentlyshakethedirtofftoseparatethecrowns.Toreplant,foreachcrowndigahole1footdeepby1footwide(30.5×30.5cm).Blendwell-rottedcompostand1cup(250mL)BasicFertilizerMix(p.14)inthebottomoftheholeandcreateaconicalpeak.Spreadtherootssotheyaredrapedaroundthepeak,andmudthecrowninwithwater,soil,andmorecompost.Nextyear,dothisforthenextplantintherow.

ATIMETOKILLWeedsarenutrientthieves,evolvedtoexploittheexcellentgrowingconditionsyouhavecreatedinyourgarden.Theywillcrowdoutyourvegetables,stealtheirfood,andspreadseedsattheirearliestconvenience,leavingyoutodealwiththeiroffspringeitherimmediatelyorthefollowingyear.Dealwithweedsbeforetheygetachancetosetseed,andyouwillsaveyourselfaworldofpain.

Whenthesoiliswarmenoughinspring,youcansafelytillorspadeunderyourgreenmanureandwhateverweedshavecreptintoyourgarden.Tryingtopullweedsfromcold,unworkedsoilisafool’sgame.Ifyouaren’tgoingtotillyourgarden,turnweedsupsidedownbytakingalargeshovelfulofeartharoundtheplantandturningitoversothattherootsarefacingupandthegreentopisburiedasdeeplyaspossible.Oncethefreshlyturnedsoiliswarmedbythesun,anyweedsthatsurvivedbeingturnedunderwillbreakthesurface.Thistime,however,youarewaitingforthem,andbecausethesoiliswarmandloose,theywillcomeoutrootsandall.

Summerweedingpresentsaslightlydifferentchallenge,butthesameprinciplesapply.Weedsliketosproutfromcompactedsoilinpathwaysandarounddelicatevegetables.Workingthesoiltomakeraisedbedsislikelytomoveafewdormantweedseedsfromdeepinthesoiltonearerthesurface,wheretheywillspringtolifeatthefirstsignofheatandlight.Thesenewsproutscanbedispatchedwithasharphoe.

Afewweedsrequirespecialtreatment:Creepingbuttercup,chickweed,andinvasivemorningglory,alsoknownasbindweed.Creepingbuttercupismyarchenemy.Itiswily,invasive,andverytoughtoeradicate.Ranunculusrepensisaperennialthatwilloutliveyou,unlessyoukillitfirst.Creepingbuttercupcanpopupwhereverlandiscleared,anditparticularlyenjoyssoilsthatstaywetmostoftheyear.Indryconditions,itwillsetseedfrombrightyellowflowers.If

theearthiswaterlogged,itsendsoutrunnersalongthesurfaceofthesoillikeastrawberry.Whenthesoiliswarmandloose,itspreadswithstartlingspeed,especiallyafterthesoilisworkedup.Withlong,fibrousroots,creepingbuttercupcaneasilysurvivebeingchoppedup.Ifyouonlycutitinhalf,you’llhavetwiceasmanywithinweeks.

Weedspulledfromthegardenshouldbedriedinthesununtilcrispandbrownbeforecomposting.Weedsthathavegonetoseedshouldberemovedwiththetrash.

Whentheweatherpredictioncallsforsun,getupearlyandwaterthoroughly.Waituntilmidday,whenthesunhaswarmedthesoil.Useaspadeortroweltoloosenthesoilabout1ft(30.5cm)deepwithabout8in(20cm)ofclearancearoundeachplant.Gentlyshaketheplanttogetalltherootsup.

Usethesamemethodtoremovechickweed,anotherground-creepingdenizenofdisturbedsoil.Takingchickweedoutearlywillsaveyoualotoftroublelaterintheseason.Eachplantcanset15,000seeds,andtheseseedscansurviveinthesoilforsixtyyears.

Ifyouhavemorninggloryanywhereinyouryard—Ifeelyourpain.Ifitismixedwithsod,youhaveabigproblem.Youmayneedtodigoutthemorninggloryandthesodtogetherandremovethemfromtheproperty.Ifit’sinyourgarden,it’salmostasbad.Morninggloryhasrootsthatcanrunfor20ft(6m)ormoreandevena½inch(1cm)ofrootleftinthesoilwillproduceanewplantwithinweeks.

WeedinghoesofJapaneseandDutchdesignhavetriangularheadsthatpermityoutoworksafelyintightspaces.Useafileorgrindingburrtoputakeenedgeontheblade.Drawthehoealongthesurfaceof

thesoiltosliceupnewlysproutedweeds.

Ihavecoveredmorningglorywithblackplasticfortwoyearswithouteradicatingit.Butindoingso,allthesodrottedaway,andthathelpedinmymission.Digwidelyaroundtheplant,andfolloweverylong,slender,whiterootasfarasyoucan.Ifyouhaveasieve,siftthesoilasyougo.Bagupthevinesandroots,andsendthemawaywiththetrash.Donotriskyourcompostbyaddingmorningglory.Youmayhavetorevisitthesiteofamorninggloryinfestationeveryfewweeksthroughoutthegrowingseasontocompletelyeradicateit.Thekeyistosiftouteverybitofroot.

ELIMINATESOD&EXPANDYOURGARDENIntheheatofsummer,youcanusethesun’senergytokillgrassyturfbeforeestablishinganewgardenorexpandinganexistinggarden.Removinganddisposingoflivesodisback-breakingworkandawasteofusefulorganicmatter.ThemethodIrecommendtakesafewweeks,butmuchofthattimeyoucanspendinalawnchair.

Markthecornersofyournewgardenspacewithstakesandlengthsofstringtocreateaperimeter,thenuseaweedwackertoscalpthegrassrightdowntothesoil.Covertheareawithtwolayersofthickblackplasticandsecureitwithstonesandscrapwoodsoitdoesn’tblowaway.Aftertwoweeksofsunnyweather,removetheplastic.Youshouldhaveapatchofmostlydeadgrassintheearlystagesofdecay.DustthedecayingsodwithBasicFertilizerMix(p.14),about4cups(1L)per100sq.ft(9.3sq.m),a10×10ft(3×3m)area.Turnthesodupsidedownwithaspadeandreplacetheplasticcover.Lettheareabakeinthesunfortwomoreweeks.Thisshouldkilltherestofthegrass.Thefertilizeryouaddedwillacceleratethedecompositionofthesod,creatingusefulsoil-enhancingcompost.Removetheplasticagain,andtillorhoetobreakdowntheorganicmatter.Atthispoint—ifitisn’ttoolateintheseason—youcanamendthesoilwithcompostandplantfallcropssuchaskaleandbeets,orputinacovercropandwaitfornextspring.

Awintercovercropofoats,crimsonclover,fallrye,orfieldlegumes—

oramixofallofthem—willhelpsuppressweedsandprovidealushcarpetofgreenmanuretoturnunderinspring.

HOWTOCUREPOTATOESFORSTORAGEPotatoesareaterrificwaytostorefoodenergy,whichgoesalongwaytowardexplainingtheirpopularityasahomeandcommercialcropforthepastfewcenturies.

Dryyourpotatoesforseveraldaysbeforestoring.Properlycuredpotatoescanlastmanymonthswithnodeclineinquality,nutrition,orflavor.Improperlycuredpotatoeswillturnintoamessofmoldandrot.

Stopwateringyourpotatoesmid-summer.Watchforthevinestowither,thenwatchtheweatherforecast,andselectaperiodofatleastthreesunny,drydaysforyourharvest.Digpotatoesgentlytoavoidnicksandabrasions.Donotwashthemorattempttobrushthesoilaway.Ifyouinjuretheskinbeforeittoughens,youwillloseyourcrop.Mostofthedirtwilljustfalloffnaturally.

Findaveryshadypartoftheyardforyourcuringstation.Iuseaspotthatisdryandwell-protectedunderdensecedars.Erectatable—asheetofplywoodandacoupleofsawhorsesworksreallywell—andspreadyourpotatoesoutsotheyarenottouching.Coverthepotatoeslooselywithatarptokeepoutsunlight.Potatoesthatareexposedtosunlightmayturngreen,renderingthem

inedible.Afterthreetosevendaysofdryweather,youcanplaceyourpotatoesin

burlapsacksorwell-ventilatedcardboardboxes.Storeinaverydark,dry,coolplace,butprotectthemfromtemperaturesbelow40ºF(5°C).Checkyourpotatoesforsignsofrotandremovethedodgyonesimmediately.Potatoesthatareincontactwithrottingonesshouldbewashedandeatenassoonaspossible.

HOWTOCUREONIONSFORSTORAGEWhenthetopsofyourstorageonionswither,topple,andyellow,itistimetoputupyourwintersupply.Consultalong-termweatherreport.Youwillneedaboutaweekofdryweathertocureatypicalstorageonion.

Useaspadeortroweltocarefullyloosenthesoilunderandaroundthebulb.Becarefulnottonickthebulbsastheywilldecayquicklyifdamaged.Gentlypullthebulbsoutofthesoilandlaythemontopofthegroundinthesun.Youdon’tneedtoworryaboutcleaningthemupatthispoint.Mostofthedirtwillfalloffonitsown,andbrushingthemwilldamagetheskin,whichyouneedintact.Aftertwoorthreedaysofsun,mostofthetopsshouldbewithered.Cutthetopsoffwithsharpclippers.

Setasidetheonionswiththick,juicytops,astheyareunlikelytocureexceptinveryhot,dryconditions.Justtaketheminsidethehouseandusethem.Movetherestoftheonionstoatarpinasunnypartoftheyard.Thebestlocationisabitoflawnthatisburneddrybythesun.Concretepadsaredrybutroughandmaydamagetheonionsthroughthetarp.

Positiontheonionsonhalfofthetarpsotheyarenottouching.Leavetheonionsuncoveredthroughtheday,thenintheevening,beforethedewcomes,foldthetarpovertheonionstokeepthemdry.Pullbackthetarpeverymorningtoexposetheonionstothesun.Continuethisforaboutaweek,ifpossible,untilthesurfaceskinisbrown,dry,andshiny.Removeanyonionsthatshowsignsofrotormildew.Iftheweatherturnswet,gettheonionsinsidetoadrylocationwithgoodaircirculation.

Storeyouronionsinacool,dryplaceincardboardboxes,meshbags,orbrownpaperbags,stackednomorethanthreedeep.

HOWTOHARVESTGARLICPlantoharvestgarlicbulbsduringastretchofwarm,dryweather.Stopwateringtheminmid-Julytoencouragethetoptowitheranddieback.Oncethetopsare

yellowanddry,thesoilshouldbelooseanddry.Removethebulbsbydiggingunderneaththemandpullingtheentireplantfromthegroundbythetop.Brushthemoffgentlyandletthemdryinthesunforthreedays.Carefullytrimoffthetopsandroots,thenmovetoadryshedforthreeweeks.Peeloffasinglelayerofpaperyouterskin,andyouwillbeleftwithanicecleanbulb.Storegarlicbulbsinacool,dryplace.

BasilPestoGarlicScapePesto

MashedPeaBruschettaBasilGarlicDip

VersatileCauliflowerSoupFreshSofrito

TzatzikiCucumberSalad

PharoahSaladFarmhouse-StyleSlicedOnionSalad

DillPotatoSaladZero-FatDressing

FriedHalibutwithTartarSaucePastawithCherryTomatoTunaSauce

Frittata,ThreeWaysBeefEnchiladaswithFreshMexicanTomatoSauce

MalaiKoftainTomato-GingerSauceBakedPolenta

SweetCornPolentaSofrito-PoachedEggs

Tapas-StyleFriedPotatoesSeasonedOvenFries

SaladRollswithSpicyPeanutSauceChiangMaiNoodlesSpinach&FetaPenne

LinguiniwithCreamyPestoSauceFancyBroccoli

TamilTurnipGreensGreenBeanswithShallots&Almonds

JamaicanRice&PeasStrawberry-RhubarbPieSpicyZucchiniSconesQuickFridgeRelish

Randy’sAll-PurposeSeasoningFreshTomatoCatsup

BasilPestoDarkgreenherbssuchasbasilandparsleyareloadedwithpotentantioxidants.Butwhocares?Imakepestomorethananyotherdishinthisbooksimplybecauseeveryonelovesit.Duringthesummer,whenherbsareplentiful,wemakepestoandfreezeitin1-cup(250-mL)portionstoeatallwinter.Tosswithhotboilednewpotatoesor

pastaandtopwithasprinkleofcheese.

MAKES1½CUPS(375ML)

½cup(125mL)pinenuts1firmlypackedcup(250mL)basil1firmlypackedcup(250mL)flat-leafparsley1lemon,juicedandzested½cup(125mL)gratedParmesancheese

2garliccloves½tspchiliflakes

1tspkoshersalt½tsppepper½cup(125mL)extravirginoliveoil

Deliciousvariations:Usewalnutsorhazelnutsinplaceofpinenuts.Usesoftherbssuchasoreganoandmarjoramtovarytheflavor.

Tofreezepesto,place1cup(250mL)inasmallcontainerandcoverwithathinlayerofoliveoiltopreventoxidation.

Inadrysautépanonmediumheat,lightlytoastpinenutsfor1–2minutes.Inafoodprocessor,placepinenuts,basil,parsley,lemonjuiceandzest,cheese,garlic,chili,salt,andpepperandpulsetobreakuppinenutsandgarlic.Blendmixturewhileslowlyaddingoliveoil.Scrapedownsides,ifnecessary.Whenmixtureformsaloosepaste,it’sdone.

GarlicScapePestoGarlicplantedinthefallisusuallyreadyforharvestbyearly

August,buttoensurethattheplant’senergygoesintogrowingbigcloves,youshouldcutoffthescapeandseedpodearlyinJuly.(Thescapeistheloopyneckpiecewithabulbontheend.)Throwawaythebulbandmakepestowiththescapesorusethemasyouwouldgreenonions.Tossthispestowithhotpastaorspreadonslicesof

toastedbaguette.

MAKESABOUT1CUP(250ML)

1cup(250mL)choppedscapes½cup(125mL)extravirginoliveoil

2tbsplemonjuice½cup(125mL)gratedParmesancheese¼tspgroundblackpepper

zestof1lemonkoshersalt,totaste

Cutgarlicscapesinto½-in(1-cm)lengthsandaddtoavegetablestir-fry.

Inafoodprocessor,pulsescapes,oil,andlemonjuiceuntilalmostsmooth.Addcheese,pepper,andlemonzest,andpulsetocombine.Tasteandseasonwithsalt,ifdesired.

MashedPeaBruschettaThisismyrewardforplantingseedswhilemybreathisstillvisible

intheair.Getoutyourverybestoliveoilforthisdish.Onebruschettaisastylishamusebouche;twopiecesmakealight

appetizer.

MAKES6PIECES

1cup(250mL)freshpeas¼tspcoarseseasalt¼cupfinelygratedParmesancheese¼cup(60mL)extravirginoliveoil1tbsplemonjuice6thinslicesbaguette

1garlicclovegroundblackpepper,totaste

Ifyoudon’thaveamortarandpestle,gentlypulsetheingredientsinafoodprocessor,butavoidover-mixing.Wearen’tmakingapurée.

Inalargemortarandpestle,mashpeas,salt,andcheese.Addjustenougholiveoiltocreateachunkypuréewitharichtexture.Stirinlemonjuice.Toastbaguetteslicesuntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.

Rungarliccloveinonelightstrokedownmiddleofeachslice.(Thetoastactslikesandpaper.)Spreadpeamixtureoverslicesandgarnishwithalightgrindofblackpepperandadrizzleofoliveoil.

BasilGarlicDipThisdipisassimpletomakeasitisdelicioustoeat.Greatwithpotatochipsorvegetablecrudités,italsomakesanastoundinglygoodspreadforsandwiches.Makeitadayaheadandtheflavors

amplify.

MAKES1¼CUPS(310ML)

1cup(250mL)oliveoilmayonnaise1packedcup(250mL)basilleaves¼cup(60mL)choppedflat-leafparsley1tbsplemonjuice

1garlicclove

Inafoodprocessor,pulseallingredientsuntilsmooth.

VersatileCauliflowerSoupHome-grownorangeor“cheddar”cauliflowerfloretsareaclassicbaitandswitch.Theylookliketheyshouldtastelikecheesecurds,buttheytasteexclusivelyandintenselyofcauliflowerinawaythatthegrocerystoreversiondoesnot.Purplecauliflowermakessoupthecolorofgrapesoda,whichisdisconcerting.Avoiditexceptasapracticaljoke.Thisisaveryflexiblerecipethatcantakeyoufrom

vegantopracticallymeat-atarian.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1tspextravirginoliveoil3garliccloves,minced2shallots,chopped1celerystalk,chopped1orangecauliflower,choppedseaorkoshersalt,totaste

AddtherindfromslabbaconorParmesancheesetoyoursoupwhileitissimmering,thenfishitoutbeforeyoupurée.Yum!

SavetherindsfromParmesancheeseinthefreezerandtossthemintosimmerwithsoups.Ifyoubuyblocksofbacon,savethoserindstosautéwithonions

whenmakingsoupsandstews.Youdon’teattherinds,buttheflavortheyaddismagic.

Inalargepotonmediumheat,warmoil.Sautégarlic,shallots,andceleryuntilsoft,about3minutes.Addcauliflowerand3cups(750mL)waterorlightstock.Bringtoaboil,reduceheattomedium-low,andsimmerfor30minutes.Puréewithanimmersionblenderorinafoodprocessor,insmallbatches.Seasonto

tastewithsalt.

OPTIONALDAIRYEMBELLISHMENT:

½cup(125mL)cream1cup(250mL)gratedcheddarcheese

Preparesoupasabove.Whiskincreamandaddcheesealittleatatimeonmediumheatuntilfullyincorporated.Topwithalittleshreddedcheddarbeforeserving.

OPTIONALHIGH-PROTEINEMBELLISHMENT:Wehavemadeaprettynicesoupatthispoint,butthisisnotamealthatwillfuelthesortofhardlaborthatwewritersperformonadailybasis.Forthat,wewillneedalittlemoreprotein.Imean,whatifIhavetosplitaninfinitive?

1boneless,skinlesschickenbreast

½tspRandy’sAll-PurposeSeasoning(p.119)½tbspextravirginoliveoil4slicesbacon,choppedandfriedcrispy,drainedonpapertowel¼cup60mL)cheddarcheese¼cup(60mL)parsley

Sprinklechickenbreastwithseasoning.Inafryingpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautéchickenuntilcookedthrough,about8–10minutes.Letcoolandshredmeat.Sprinklesoupwithshreddedchickenandbacon.Garnishwithcheeseandchoppedparsley.

FreshSofritoThismildbutluxuriouswarmsalsagoeswithfriedpotatoes,eggs,andgrilledmeat.Whenyouhearpeopletalkaboutfoodthattastes

likeitself,thisiswhattheyaretalkingabout.

MAKES2CUPS(500ML)

¼cup(60mL)extravirginoliveoil1cup(250mL)dicedonions2garliccloves,minced1jalapeñopepper,seededandminced1redbellpepper,diced1½cups(375mL)dicedtomatoes½tbspfreshoregano

1tspkoshersalt

Inalargesautépanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautéonionsuntillightlybrowned.Addgarlic,jalapeño,bellpepper,tomatoes,oregano,andsaltandsimmeruntilsoft,about5–10minutes.

TzatzikiCucumberSaladTzatzikiisatraditionalGreeksaladthatinNorthAmericaappearstohavehasmorphedintoasauceofyogurtandgarlicnotatalllike

thedishIrememberfromtheGreekislands.MytzatzikiisasubstantialcucumbersaladyoucanheapongrilledmeatsandSuperSimplePitaBread(p.62).Useatender-skinnedcucumber

andleavetheskinon.

MAKES2CUPS(500ML)

1largecucumber1garlicclove,minced¼cup(60ml)choppedfreshdillfronds½tspcoarseseasalt¼tspgroundblackpepper⅛tspcayennepepper¾cup(120ml)Greekyogurt

Splitcucumberlengthwiseandremoveseedswithaspoon.Gratecucumberandplaceinacolanderinthesink,thensqueezeoutexcessmoisturewithyourhands.Setasidecucumbertodrain.

Inabowl,combinegarlic,dill,salt,pepper,cayenne,andyogurt.Stirincucumberandletmixturesit15minutes.Tasteandseasonwithmoresalt,ifdesired.

PharoahSaladKhoresanwheat,knownbyitsbrandnameKamut,isanancientgrainthatwaswidelygrowninEgypt,Iran,andAfghanistan.ItmadeabigcomebackwhenAmericanfarmersstartedtogrowitagaininthe1970sfortheburgeoninghealthfoodmarket.Thegrainisrichinfiberandprotein,nottomentionjustabouteveryvitaminandmineralyoucanname.Thissaladworkswellwith

whateverfreshherbsyouhaveonhand,includingcilantro,parsley,mint,dill,oregano,basil,andfennelfronds.

Note:Youwillneedtosoakthegrainsovernightbeforemakingthisrecipe.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1cup(250mL)Kamut3greenonions3celerystalks1mediumcarrot

1tbsplimejuice1tbspseasonedricewinevinegar2tbspextravirginoliveoil¼tspsesameoil

1tspcoarseseasalt¼tspgroundblackpepper

2tbspchoppedcilantro

2tbspchoppedflat-leafparsley

1tbspchoppedfreshmint(optional)

SoakKamutin2cups(500mL)waterfor8hoursorovernight.DrainKamutanddiscardwater.Inapotonhighheat,bringgrainsand2cups(500mL)freshwatertoaboil.Reduceheattolow,coverpot,andsimmerfor45minutes.Drainandsetasidetocool.

Dicegreenonionsandceleryabout¼–½in(6mm–1cm),closetosizeofthewheatgrains.Peelandcoarselygratecarrot.

Inalargebowl,whisktogetherlimejuice,vinegar,oliveandsesameoil,salt,andpepper.AddKamut,vegetables,andherbs,andstirtocoat.Letmarinatefor2hoursbeforeserving.

Farmhouse-StyleSlicedOnionSaladThisisoneofthoserecipesthatyoufindonanoldindexcard

writtenbyabelovedancestorwhoexiststodayonlyinmemoriesandinyellowedoldphotos.Serveitatyournextbarbecuepartyand

blowpeople’sminds.

MAKES10–12SERVINGS

6largewhiteorSpanishonions

BRINE:1½cups(375mL)water1½cups(375mL)whitevinegar2¼cups(560mL)sugar6tbsp(90mL)koshersalt

DRESSING:1½cups(375mL)mayonnaise3tbspceleryseeds

1tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper

Reduceyourrelianceonplasticwrapwithreusablewrapsmadefromnaturalfiberandbee’swax.LookforAbeego,Bee’sWrap,orApiwrapsinhealthfood

storesoronline.

Peelandsliceonionsasthinlyaspossible.Placeinalargeglassorceramicbowl.Inalargesaucepanonhighheat,combinewater,vinegar,sugar,andsalt.Bringtoaboilandpouroveronions.Letstandfor3–5hours,thendrainthoroughly.

Inalargeservingbowl,whisktogethermayonnaise,celeryseeds,salt,andpepper.Addonionsandtosstocoat.Refrigeratefor3hoursbeforeserving.

DillPotatoSaladThisistheperfectsidedishforpicnics,barbecues,andbalmy

evenings,acreamy,herbaceousversionofaclassicthatemploysfreshgardendillandlastsummer’sClassicDillPickles.

MAKES6SERVINGS

2lb(1kg)potatoes

1tbspkoshersalt3tbspchoppedfreshdillfronds1cup(250mL)mayonnaise2tbspwhitewinevinegar

2tbspwholegrainmustard½tspgroundblackpepper¼tspkoshersalt2hard-boiledeggs½cup(125mL)dicedgreenonions1cup(250mL)dicedcelery½cup(125mL)dicedClassicDillPickles(p.132)

Tomakeperfecthard-boiledeggs,bringeggstoalowboilinwaterforexactly1minute,thencoverwithalid,turnoffburner,andletstandfor11minutes.Drain

andimmerseincoldwater.

Peelandcubepotatoesabout¾–1in(2–2.5cm).Inasaucepanonhighheat,bringpotatoes,3cups(750mL)water,and1tbspsalttoaboil.Reduceheatto

mediumandsimmeruntilknife-tender,about5minutes.Drainandsetasidetocool.

Inalargemixingbowl,combinedill,mayonnaise,vinegar,mustard,pepper,andsalt.Peelandchopeggs.Addeggs,greenonions,celery,andpicklestomixture.Addpotatoesandusearubberspatulatogentlyfoldmixtureuntilevenlycoatedwithdressing.

Ifdesired,garnishtopofsaladwithmorechoppeddill,dicedgreenonions,slicesofhard-boiledeggs,andadustingofpaprika.Serveimmediatelyorkeeprefrigerateduntilmealtime.

Zero-FatSaladDressingThelight,brightflavorofthisdressingmakesyoursaladapalate-cleansingcounterpointtoarichentrée.Tosswithfreshsalad

greens.

MAKES½CUP(125ML)

1tomato,minced1greenonion,minced

1tsplimejuice½tspseasalt

1tbspchoppedcilantroleaves

Inabowl,combineallingredients.Letmixturesitfor5minutes.

ChooseSustainableSeafood

Asaloverofseafood,Iworryaboutthestateoftheworld’soceans.Manyfisheriesareovertaxedandsomehavebeenfishedtoextinction,butthetideisstartingtoturn.Sustainabilitycertificationsprovidesomeassurancethatthefishyoubuyinstoresandrestaurantscomefromhealthy,well-managedfisheries.

SeaChoice(seachoice.org)isaconsortiumofnon-profitscientificandenvironmentalgroupsthatmonitorsfisheriesforecologicalintegrityandoffersratingsofBestChoice,SomeConcerns,andAvoid.Couldn’tbeeasier.

SeafoodWatch(seafood-watch.org),aprojectoftheMontereyBayAquariuminCalifornia,offersasearchablelistofcommonseafoods,includinginformationaboutthestateofthefishery,adescriptionofhowthefishiscaught,andasustainabilityrating.

OceanWise(oceanwise.ca)isaconservationprogramfromtheVancouverAquariumthatprovidesdetailedinformationaboutWestCoastfisheriesaswellasausefullistofCanadianrestaurantsthatservesustainableseafood.

MarineStewardshipCouncil(msc.org)isanindependentnon-profitorganizationworkingwithfisheries,distributors,andretailersallovertheworldoncertificationofsustainablefisheriesandproducttraceability.MSCemploysascience-basedapproachtofisherystandardsandbestpracticesforindustry.Certifiedproductscarryarecognizabledarkbluelabel.

FriedHalibutwithTartarSauceThisisaverysimpletreatmentforhalibutthatapproximatesthefish

’n’chipsexperiencewithoutanoil-soakedbatter.Pankobreadcrumbsmakethefishsupercrisp.Idevelopedthisrecipeformymother-in-law,wholikesherfishfirm,thoroughlycooked,and

crunchy.ServewithSeasonedOvenFries(p.103)andTartarSauce.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

canolaoil,forfrying2lb(1kg)halibutfillet5tspRandy’sAll-PurposeSeasoning(p.119)1cup(250mL)all-purposeflour

2eggs2½cups(625mL)pankobreadcrumbs

TARTARSAUCE:½cup(125mL)mayonnaise3tbspOld-FashionedRelish(p.133)½tspLouisiana-stylehotsauceorSriracha½tspyellowmustard

ThePacifichalibutstockisingoodshape—justoffathirty-yearhigh—andtherearerelativelyfewconcernsabouttheeffectsofthelonglinesusedtoharvest

them.Ofallyourhalibutchoices,Pacificisthewaytogo.

Preheat½in(1cm)canolaoilto340°F(170°C)inahigh-sidedfryingpan.Cuthalibutintoslices1-in(2.5-cm)thick.Seasononallsideswith2tspseasoning.Placeflouronaplate.Inawidebowl,whiskeggs.

Onaseparateplate,seasonpankowithremaining3tspseasoning.Withyourleft

hand,dredgeafilletinflour,thenrollitinbeateneggs.Liftfilletwithlefthandandallowexcesseggtorunoff.Userighthandtodredgeinpankoandplacegentlyintohotoil.(Becarefulwhenworkingwithhotoil,anddon’tletitsplash!)Fryfishfor2minutes,untilgoldenbrown,thenturnandfryforanother2minutes,untilfirmtothetouch.

TARTARSAUCE:Inabowl,mixallingredientsuntilcombined.Setasidefor15minutes.

Makes⅔cup(160mL).

PastawithCherryTomatoTunaSaucePastawithtunasauceisapopular,home-styleItaliandishthathasnotmigratedtotheNewWorld.Thissimplerecipegivesyouarichdressingforpastathatisbrimmingwithhealthystuff.Ittakesnomoretimetocookthandoesyourpasta.UsegoodItaliantinnedtunapackedinoliveoilandmakesuretousetheoliveoilfromthetintoenhancethetunaflavor.Iusetripolinalunganoodles,whicharelikelongskinnylasagnanoodleswithrufflededges.Fresh

linguiniorfettucciniwouldalsobeterrific.

MAKES2MEAL-SIZEDSERVINGS

2garliccloves,minced1shallot,minced

1smallredchilipepper,seeded5.6oz(160g)oil-packedtuna(reserveoil)1cup(250mL)halvedcherrytomatoes¼cup(60mL)freshpeas½lb(250g)pasta¼cup(60mL)gratedPecorinocheese¼cup(60mL)choppedflat-leafparsley

TheRioMarebrandtunausesyellowfin,whichisconsideredresilienttofishingpressure.It’scertifiedbySeaChoiceasasustainableBestChoice.

Inalargepotonhigh,bring1gal(4L)waterand1½tbspkoshersalttoaboil.

Meanwhile,inalargesautépan(largeenoughtoaccommodatecookedpasta)onmedium-lowheat,sautégarlic,shallot,chilies,andoilfromtunafor3minutes.Addtunaandtomatoes.Increaseheattomedium.Simmerfor5minutes,until

tomatoessoften.Usebackofawoodenspoontolightlymashtomatoesandtunatogether.Addpeasandturnoffburner.

Topotofboilingwater,addpastaandcookaccordingtopackagedirections.Drainpastaandreserve¼cup(60mL)cookingliquid.Stirincookedpastaandcheesewithtomato-tunamixtureandtosswhileaddingreservedcookingliquid.Sprinklewithparsley.

Frittata,ThreeWaysFrittatasaretheonlywayIknowtouseleftoverssothatyouendupwithsomethingclassyenoughtoservetocompany.Therearetwocomponentstofrittata:theessentialelements(eggs,friedpotatoes,

cheese,andoliveoil)andyourembellishments.Whateverembellishmentsyouchoosetoadd,chopthemsothattheyareno

biggerthanamarbleandarecookedandheatedthroughbeforetheeggsgoin.

ALLVERSIONSMAKE4SERVINGS

SAUSAGE&PEPPERFRITTATA:1tbspextravirginoliveoil1cup(250mL)cookeddicedpotatoes2cookedspicyItaliansausages,sliced⅓cup(80mL)juliennedredbellpeppers⅓cup(80mL)slicedwhitemushrooms⅓cup(80mL)dicedonions⅓cup(80mL)choppedgreenonions1tspkoshersalt,divided

6largeeggs½cup(250mL)gratedAsiagocheese

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Inalargenon-stick,oven-prooffryingpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addpotatoesandfryuntillightlybrowned.Addsausagesandfryfor2minutes.Add

peppers,mushrooms,onions,andgreenonions,and½tspsalt.Tosstocombineandheatthrough,about2–3minutes.Whiskeggswithremainderofsaltandpouroversausagemixture.Gentlyshakefryingpantoworkeggsthroughmixture.Sprinklecheeseevenlyovertop.Bakefor7–9minutes,untilmiddleisfirm.Slidefrittataontoaplateandserveinwedges.

SALMON&DILLFRITTATA:1tbspextravirginoliveoil1cup(250mL)cookeddicedpotatoes6–8oz(175–230g)cookedsalmon

6largeeggs½tspkoshersalt2tspLouisiana-stylehotsauce3tbspchoppedfreshdillfronds2greenonions,chopped½cup(125mL)gratedGruyèrecheese

Preheatovento350ºF(180ºC).

Inalargenon-stick,oven-prooffryingpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addpotatoesandsalmonandcookabout2–3minutes.

Inamixingbowl,whiskeggs,salt,hotsauce,anddill,andpouroversalmonmixture.Sprinkleongreenonionsandcheese.Gentlyshakefryingpantoworkeggsthroughmixture.Bakefor7–9minutes,untilmiddleisfirm.Slidefrittataontoaplateandserveinwedges.

GREENEGGS&HAM:1tbspextravirginoliveoil½cup(125mL)choppedprosciutto¾cup(185mL)cookeddicedpotatoes¼cup(60mL)dicedredbellpeppers¼cup(60mL)choppedgreenonions

6eggs½cup(125mL)BasilPesto(p.76)½tspsalt¼tspgroundblackpepper¼cup(60mL)gratedPecorinocheese

AhitatanySeuss-themedevent,servedhotorcold.

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Inalargenon-stick,oven-proofpanonmedium,heatoliveoilandprosciutto.Fryuntilcrispy,about4–5minutes.

Removeprosciuttofrompanandsetaside.Addpotatoesandfryuntilgoldenbrown,about5–6minutes.Addpeppersandgreenonions,andsautéfor2minutes.Returnprosciuttotopan.Inamixingbowl,whiskeggs,pesto,salt,andpepperandpouroverprosciuttomixture.Gentlyshakefryingpantoworkeggsthroughmixture.Sprinklewithcheese.Bakefor7–9minutes,untilmiddleisfirm.Slidefrittataontoaplateandserveinwedges.

BeefEnchiladaswithFreshMexicanTomatoSauceMostcommerciallypreparedsaucesandcondimentsareloadedwithsalt,andmanyalsocontainhigh-fructosecornsyrup(oftenunderitsmanyobscurenames).FreshMexicanTomatoSauceisloadedwithnaturalflavor.TopwithPicodeGallo&Guacamole(p.31).

MAKES6SERVINGS

FRESHMEXICANTOMATOSAUCE:3cups(750mL)dicedtomatoes1roastedredbellpepper(p.45),diced¼tspchipotlepowder2garliccloves,minced2driedpasillaoranchochilies,seeded½tspdriedoregano1tspgroundcumin1tbsphoney1tbspfreshcilantroleaves

1tspkoshersalt

BEEFENCHILADAS:

1tbspextravirginoliveoil1lb(500g)leangroundbeef1cup(250mL)mincedonions

1tspkoshersalt2½cups(625mL)FreshMexicanTomatoSauce2cups(500mL)cookedblackbeans

12whitecorntortillas

2cups(500mL)gratedMontereyJackcheese

FRESHMEXICANTOMATOSAUCE:Inalargesaucepanonmedium-highheat,combineallingredientswith1cup(250mL)water.Bringtoalowboil,thenreduceheatandsimmerfor20minutes.Blendwithanimmersionblenderor,inafoodprocessor,puréeinsmallbatchestomakeasmoothsauce.

BEEFENCHILADAS:Preheatovento350ºF(180ºC).

Inalargesaucepanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addbeef,onions,andsalt,breakingupmeatuntilcookedthrough,about10minutes.Add¾cup(185mL)TomatoSauceandbeansandsimmerfor10minutes.Mashhalfoftheblackbeanswithbackofaspoon,untilmixturethickens.Spread¼cup(60mL)TomatoSauceonbottomofa9×12in(23×30.5cm)bakingdish.

Turnburneronstovetoptomediumheat.Place1tortillaatatimeonheatedburner,movingitwithtongsevery15secondsasitsteamsandchars.Toastfor20–30secondsoneachside,placeonaplate,andcoverwithateatowel.Repeatwithremainingtortillas.

Toassembleenchiladas:Place1tortillaonaplateandsmearbothsideswith½tbspsauce.Place⅓cup(80mL)beefandbeanfillingontortilla.Rolltortillaoverfillingawayfromyou.Placerolledtortillaincasseroledish.Repeatwithremainderoftortillasandfilling.Pourremainderofsauceovertopandsprinkle

evenlywithcheese.Coverlooselywithfoilandbakefor30minutes.Removefoilandbroilonhighuntilcheesebubbles.Letstandfor10minutesbeforeserving.

MalaiKoftainTomato-GingerSauceThesenuttyvegetarianmeatballsareservedacrossnorthernIndia,buttheyarehardtofindinNorthAmerica.Nowthatpaneer—a

home-styleIndiancheese—isavailableinmanygrocerystores,itispossibletoreplicatethisamazingdishathome.Foraveganmeal,

replacepaneerwithextra-firmtofu.Servewithbasmatirice.

MAKES4SERVINGS

TOMATO-GINGERSAUCE:

2tbspcanolaoil1cup(250mL)dicedonions

2tbspgratedfreshginger2garliccloves,minced1½tbspminced,seededjalapeñopepper1tspgroundcumin

2tspgroundcoriander3cups(750mL)dicedfreshtomatoes1½tspkoshersalt

3tbspgroundpistachios½cup(125mL)sourcreamorplainyogurt

KOFTAS:2cups(500mL)diced,cookedpotatoes

½cup(125mL)groundpistachios¾cup(185mL)finelygratedcarrots2tspgroundcoriander

1tspgroundcumin5oz(150g)paneer,coarselygrated1½tbspminced,seededjalapeños

3tbspfreshcilantroleaves¼tspcayennepepper1½tspkoshersalt3cups(750mL)canolaoil,forfryingchoppedpistachios,forgarnish

TOMATO-GINGERSAUCE:Inasautépanonmedium,heatcanolaoil.Sautéonionsuntilgoldenbrown,about6minutes.Stiringinger,garlic,jalapeño,cumin,andcoriander,andcookfor1minute.Addtomatoes,¼cup(60mL)water,andsalt,andheatuntilmixturebubblesvigorously.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmerfor10–15minutes.Removefromheat,andstiringroundpistachiosandsourcream.Mashuntilsmoothorpuréewithanimmersionblender.

KOFTAS:Inafoodprocessor,addpotatoes,groundpistachios,carrots,coriander,cumin,

paneer,jalapeños,cilantro,cayenne,andsalt.Pulseprocessortochopingredients,scrapingdownsidesasneeded.Thenturnprocessortohighuntilmixtureformsafirm,tackyball,about30–60seconds.

Tomakekoftas,roll2tbspmixtureatatimebetweenyourpalmstoformballs.Placeonacookiesheet,thenrefrigeratefor1hour.

Inadeeppotonmedium,heatcanolaoilto350°F(180°C).Deep-frykoftas,4piecesatatime,for3minutes,untilbrowned.Removetoplatecoveredwithapapertoweltodrain.

DivideTomato-Gingersaucebetween4bowlsandtopwith3koftas.Garnishwithchoppedpistachios.

Idedicateanelectriccoffeegrindertocrushingwholespicesandmakingpistachioflour.Ifyoudon’thaveagrinder,substitutestore-boughtalmondflour

forgroundpistachiosinthisrecipe.

Toastingwholecuminandcorianderseedsinadrypanfor1minutebeforegrindingwillgreatlyenhancetheirflavor.

BakedPolentaTosavetime,makeSweetCornPolentaandspreadonacookiesheetthedaybefore.Refrigerateovernight,thenbakefordinner.ServewithgrilledsausageorChickenallaCacciatore(p.186).

MAKES4SERVINGS

1tbspcanolaoil5cups(1.25L)SweetCornPolenta(p.100)1tomato,thinlysliced½cup(125mL)gratedParmesancheese¼tspgroundblackpepper

Preheatovento450°F(230°C).

Oila9×15in(23×28cm)cookiesheetwithcanolaoil.Coverwithparchmentpaper,trimmedtofit.PrepareSweetCornPolentaandpourontocookiesheet.Smoothwitharubberspatulaandsetasidetocoolfor30minutes(orrefrigerateovernight).

Toppolentawithtomatoslices,cheese,andpepper.Bakeonmiddlerackofovenuntiledgesarebrowned,about30minutes.

SweetCornPolentaPolentaisessentiallygroundcornporridge.InItaly,itisflavoredwithstockandagedcheesesuchasprovolone.Eatenhot,polentaisacreamysidedishthatcomplementssaucy,slow-cookedOssoBuco(p.190).Whenyouspreadpolentaonasheettocool,itsetsupfirm

enoughtofryorbake(p.99).

MAKES5CUPS(1.25L)

2largeearscorn,toyield1–1½cups(250–375mL)cornkernels4cups(1L)low-sodiumchickenstockorwater½tspkoshersalt1cup(250mL)quick-cookingpolenta1roastedredbellpepper(p.45),diced1½tbspminced,seededjalapeñopeppers¼cup(60mL)butter½cup(125mL)gratedParmesancheese

Roasttheredpepperonyourbarbecueatthesametimeasthecorn,onthehottestpartofthegrill.

Preheatbarbecuetohigh.Peelandroastcornwholeonahotgrill,turningevery2minutesuntilkernelsbegintobrown,about10minutes.Holdcorncobbythestalk,anduseasharpknifetocutkernelsfromcob.Setcornaside.

Inalargesaucepanonmedium-highheat,bringstockorwatertoalowboilandaddsalt.(Ifusingwater,addadditional½tspsalt.)Addpolenta,stirringcontinuouslyuntilmixturethickens,about3minutes.Reduceheattolowandstirincorn,bellpepper,jalapeños,butter,andcheese.Tasteandseasonwithsaltandpepper,ifdesired.Thintoacreamytexturewithwater,stock,orcream,ifnecessary.Serveimmediately.

SofritoPoachedEggsThisismygarden-freshtakeontheMexicanclassichuevos

rancheros.Serveitwithrefriedbeansandtortillachips,withTapas-StyleFriedPotatoes(p.102),orjustasideofcrispytoast.

MAKES2–4SERVINGS

2cups(500mL)FreshSofrito(p.82)

4largeeggs

Inalargesautépanwithatight-fittinglidonmedium-low,simmerFreshSofrito.Make4spacesinsauce,about4in(10cm)across.Breakaneggintoeachone.Coverandsteamforabout4minutes,oruntilwhitesarecooked.

Tapas-StyleFriedPotatoesFriedpotatoescometolifewhentheymeettheirgoodfriend

chorizo.ThisisthesortofsnackyouseeatbodegasthroughoutSpain,thoughtheingredientsvarybyregion.SmokedpaprikaisaSpanishspecialtywithdimensionsofflavoryoucanonlyimagine

untilyoutryitforyourself.ItwouldalsobeculturallyappropriatetosubstitutethinlyslicedSerrano-stylehamforthechorizo.Servewith

FreshSofrito(p.82).

MAKES4SERVINGS

1½lb(750g)YukonGoldpotatoes,diced13-oz(90-g)curedchorizosausage(1sausageabout5in/13cmlong)2tbspextravirginoliveoil½tspsmokedpaprika½tspseasalt¼cup(60mL)choppedgreenonions

1tbspcilantroleaves

Inalargepotonhighheat,bringpotatoeswithenoughcoldwatertocoverand1tspkoshersalttoaboil,thensimmerfor3minutes.Drainpotatoesandsetaside.

Slicechorizo⅛-in(3-mm)thick.Inalargefryingpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addchorizoslicesandfryuntilcrisp.Removechorizofrompanandsetaside.Increaseheattomedium-highandfrycookedpotatoes,turningevery2–3minutesuntilcrisp,about10minutes.Addpaprikaandsalt,andtosstocoat.

Transferpotatoestoaservingplateandsprinklewithchorizoslices,greenonions,andcilantro.

SeasonedOvenFriesThesespicywedgesaretheperfectsideonsteaknight.Theytastegreatbesideahamburger,too.ServewithFreshTomatoCatsup(p.

120).

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

2lb(1kg)YukonGoldpotatoes2tspRandy’sAll-PurposeSeasoning(p.119)

2tbspextravirginoliveoil

Preheatovento425ºF(220ºC).

Washpotatoesincoldwaterandcutintowedges½in(1cm)thick.Drywedgesonateatowelandplaceinabowlwithseasoningandoliveoil.Tosstocoat.

Arrangewedgesonabakingsheet,withspacebetweeneach.Placebakingsheetonmiddlerackofovenandbakefor20minutes.Turnwedgesoverandbakeforanother15minutes,untiltheyaregoldenbrown.

SaladRollswithSpicyPeanutSauceIlovethecrunchandfreshnessofSoutheastAsiancooking,andsaladrollsbringitalltogetherasahand-heldvegetable-delivery

system.Mysaladrollsmakealightmealorapartyplatterwithspicydippingsauce.

MAKES10ROLLS;SAUCEMAKES1CUP(250ML)

SPICYPEANUTSAUCE:½cup(125mL)smoothpeanutbutter⅓cup(80mL)hotwater1tspcayennepepper2tbsplightsoysauce

2tbspseasonedricevinegar¼cup(60mL)choppedgreenonionsorchives

SALADROLLS:3.5oz(100g)ricevermicelli3tbspseasonedricevinegar,divided1cup(250mL)gratedcarrots¼cup(60mL)SpicyPeanutSauce1cup(250mL)shreddedcookedchicken108-in(20-cm)roundricepaperwrappers½cup(125mL)choppedgreenonions1cup(250mL)beansprouts½cup(125mL)cilantroleaves1½cups(375mL)slicedNapacabbage

SPICYPEANUTSAUCE:Inamixingbowl,combinepeanutbutterwithhotwater.Whiskgentlyuntilsmooth.Stirincayenne,soysauce,andvinegar,thenstiringreenonions.

SALADROLLS:Inalargebowl,placevermicelli.Add1qt/Lboilingwaterandletthenoodlessoftenfor3–5minutes,untiltenderbutfirm.Drainandsetasidetocool.Add2tbspvinegartovermicelliandtosstocombine.

Lineupfillingingredientsinbowlsintheordergiven.Add1tbspvinegartocarrots.AddPeanutSaucetochickenandstirtocoat.

Placealint-freecottonteatowelonworksurface.Fillapieplatewithhotwaterandimmerse1wrapperatatimeinwaterfor20–30seconds.Laywrapperflatonteatowelandadd1tbspcarrotsinaline5in(12cm)long.Add½tbspgreenonions,1tbspsprouts,4–5cilantroleaves,1½tbspchicken,and1½tbspcabbage.Foldwrapperoverfilling,awayfromyou.Foldsidesintocloseends,thengentlypressdownonfillingandrollwrapperawayfromyoutoformatube.

ChiangMaiNoodlesChiangMaiwasasleepytowninnorthernThailandwhenIwentthereinthe’80s.Backpackersandmonkeysscurriedeverywhere,stealingwhattheycould.WhatIreallylikedaboutChiangMaiwasthefactthatyouwerenevermorethanafewstepsfromnoodles.A“restaurant”justaroundthecornerfromourguesthousehadacanvasroofheldupbyafewpolesandcontainedsimplyagasringandawok.Iremembertheirplatesofnoodlesfondly,thoughIhadtobegthemtostopsprinklingwhitesugarovermynoodles,which

perplexedthem.Thisrecipedoesnotcallforsugar.

MAKES2–4SERVINGS

5.6oz(160g)driedmediumricesticks6oz(175g)firmtofu4tbspcanolaoil,divided5garliccloves,minced1driedredchilipepper,crumbled¼tspkoshersalt1cup(250mL)slicedmushrooms1cup(250mL)Napacabbage,thinlysliced¼cup(60mL)juliennedredbellpeppers¼cup(60mL)juliennedgreenbellpeppers1cup(250mL)choppedchardleavesorspinach

2tspfishsauce

1tbspchili-garlicsauce

½lime2greenonions,chopped¼cup(60mL)choppeddry-roastedpeanuts

Inabowlfilledwithboilingwater,softenricenoodlesaccordingtopackagedirections.Drainnoodlesandsetaside.

Cuttofuinto½-in(1-cm)cubes.Inawokonhigh,heat2tbspcanolaoil.Frytofucubesuntilgoldenbrown,3–4minutes.Reduceheattomedium.Stiringarlic,chili,andsalt,andtossingredientswhilecookingfor1minute.Removetofumixturefromwokandsetaside.Returnwoktomedium-high,andheat2tbspoil.Addmushroomsandletthemsitundisturbedforabout1minute,untillightlybrowned.Stirincabbage,peppers,andchard,andtosswhilecookingfor2minutes.Addfishsauce,chili-garlicsauce,andsoftenednoodles,turningtocoat.Squeezelimeovernoodlesandtopwithgreenonions,friedtofu,andpeanuts.

Spinach&FetaPenneIliketheGreekflavorsinthisquick,freshlunch.Thesaucetakesnolongertocookthanthepasta,sogetyourwaterboilingfirst,and

you’llbeingeatingin10minutesflat.

MAKES4SERVINGS

2tbspkoshersalt¼cup(60mL)extravirginoliveoil4garliccloves,sliced2cups(500mL)dicedfreshtomatoes6cups(1.5L)freshspinachleaves1lb(500g)driedpenne1cup(250mL)crumbledfetacheese½cup(125mL)pittedkalamataolives½cup(125mL)pinenuts

ToremovethepitfromaKalamataolive,pressdownontheolivewiththeflatsideofyourchefknifeuntilthefleshgivesway.Foldbackthesidesoftheolive

withyourfingersandremovethepit.

Inalargepotonhighheat,addkoshersaltto6qt/Lwaterandbringtoaboil.(It’simportanttohavetherightamountofsaltinthewaterasitseasonsthepastaandlaterthesauce.)Addpenneandcookuntiltenderbutfirm,about8–10minutes.

Meanwhile,inalargeheavy-bottomedpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautégarlicandtomatoesuntilsoft,about5minutes.Stirinspinachandturnuntil

wilted,about3minutes.

Drainpasta,reserving1cup(250mL)cookingliquid.Addcookedpenne,fetacheese,olives,pinenuts,andreservedcookingliquidtospinachsauce.Tosstoformalightsauce.

LinguiniwithCreamyPestoSauceIborrowedtheideaforthisluxuriouspestofromanoldtrattoriainVancouver’sLittleItaly.AsisthecaseformostItaliandishes,its

greatnessliesinitssimplicity.Letthefreshbasilsing.

MAKES4SERVINGS

2tbspkoshersalt¾cup(185mL)cream½cup(125mL)gratedParmesancheese½tspkoshersalt1cup(250mL)BasilPesto(p.76)1lb(500g)driedlinguini

Inalargesautépanonmedium-lowheat,warmcream,¼cup(60mL)cheese,and½tspsalttoalowsimmer.AddBasilPestoandstirtoheatthrough.Tasteandseasonwithmoresalt,ifdesired.

Inalargepotonhighheat,add2tbspkoshersaltto6qt/Lwaterandbringtoaboil.

Addlinguiniandcookuntiltenderbutfirm,about8–10minutes.Drainandtosswithsauce.Sprinkleeachservingwithabout1tbspParmesancheese.

FancyBroccoliIhavebeendoingthisdishforsolongthatIcan’trememberwhereIgottheideainthefirstplace.It’sagreatwaytotreatbroccoli,asparagus,gailan,orbroccolini,anditlooksrightathomewithafancymealoronaplainoldTuesdaynight.Usewhateversmallripe

tomatoesyouhaveonhand.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1tbspextravirginoliveoil1garlicclove,minced4cups(1L)broccoliflorets⅓cup(80mL)whitewine1cup(250mL)choppedRomatomatoes½tspkoshersalt

1tbspbutter

Inalargesautépanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautégarlicuntilfragrant,nomorethan30seconds.Increaseheattomedium-highandaddbroccoliandwine.Coverwithatight-fittinglidandcookfor3minutes.Removebroccolifrompanandsetaside.

Addtomatoesandsaltandsautéuntiltomatoessoften,thenmashtomatoeswiththebackofaspoontoformasauce.Removefromheatandstirinbutteruntilmelted.Addbroccoliandtosstocoat.

TamilTurnipGreensThisspicyTamil-styledishanswersthequestion:WhatamIgoing

todowiththetophalfofmyturnips?

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

2tbspbutter1leek,halvedandthinlysliced2garliccloves,thinlysliced1greenserranoorjalapeñopepper,seededandminced½tspgroundturmeric1tspmustardseeds

1tspgroundcumin1lb(500g)turnipgreens,roughlychopped½cup(125mL)low-sodiumchickenorvegetablestock1tspkoshersalt,divided

Inalargesaucepanonmedium,heatbutteruntilsolidsseparatefromfat.Addleeksandgarlicandsautéuntilsoft,3–5minutes.Addserrano,turmeric,mustardseeds,andcumin,andsautéfor1minute.

Addturnipgreens,stock,and½tspsalt.Turngreensuntiltheywilt,thensimmerfor15minutes.Tasteandseasonwithremainderofsalt,ifdesired.

GreenBeanswithShallots&AlmondsTransformfreshgreenbeansintoamemorablesidethatisnaturally

sweet,salty,andaromatic.

MAKES6SERVINGS

1lb(500g)greenbeans,trimmed2tbspextravirginoliveoil⅓cup(80mL)thinlyslicedshallots⅓cup(80mL)sliveredalmonds½tspkoshersalt⅛tspgroundblackpepper1tbsplemonzest

2tbspchoppedfreshparsley

Inalargepotofboilingwateronhighheat,blanchbeansfor3minutes.Drainandimmerseinabathofcoldwaterandicecubes.Drainbeansandsetaside.

Inalargesautépanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautéshallotsuntilgolden,thenaddalmondsandcookwhilestirringfor1minute.Addgreenbeans,salt,pepper,andlemonzest,andcookuntilgreenbeansareheatedthrough,about1–2minutes.Removefromheat.Sprinklewithparsley.

JamaicanRice&PeasThisisagreatsideforspicygrilledchickenorpork,orasa

vegetarianlunchallonitsown.

MAKES4SERVINGS

½cup(125mL)driedblack-eyedpeas2tbspextravirginoliveoil4garliccloves,minced

1tspfreshthyme1jalapeñopepper,seededandminced¼cup(60mL)dicedredbellpeppers½tspgroundblackpepper½tspgroundallspice½cup(125mL)choppedgreenonions,divided1cup(250mL)basmatirice1½cups(375mL)low-sodiumchickenstock

1tspkoshersalt

Inasaucepanonhighheat,bringblack-eyedpeastoaboilin2cups(500mL)unsaltedfreshwater.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmerforabout40minutes,untiltenderbutfirm.Drainandsetaside.

Inalargesaucepanonmediumheat,combineoliveoil,garlic,thyme,jalapeño,bellpeppers,blackpepper,allspice,and¼cup(60mL)choppedgreenonions.Sautéfor3–4minutes.Addriceandstirtocoatwithoil.Addstockandsaltand

increaseheattohigh.Tasteliquidandadjustseasoningwithmoresalt,ifdesired.Whenliquidcomestoaboil,coverpotwithlid,reduceheattolow,andcookfor10minutes.Turnoffheatandleavepotonburnerforanother10minutes.Removelidandfluffupricewithafork.Topwithremaininggreenonions.

Strawberry-RhubarbPiePieistheidealwaytocelebratethefirstfruitoftheseason.Let’sfaceit—pieisgoodanytime.Rhubarbisoneofthefirstplantsyou

canharvestinspring,butthegoodnewsisthatitremainsproductiverightthroughthegrowingseason.

MAKES8SERVINGS

PASTRY:3cups(750mL)all-purposeflour½tspbrownsugar

1tspkoshersalt1cup(250mL)frozenbutter⅔cup(160mL)coldwater,plusextraifneeded

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARBFILLING:1½cups(375mL)sugar⅓cup(80mL)cornstarch

1tspgroundcinnamon3cups(750mL)dicedrhubarb2½cups(625mL)dicedstrawberries

1tbspgratedfreshginger

GLAZE:

1largeegg,beaten

1tbspwhitesugar

Ifyouusefrozenrhubarbtomakeapieorcrisp,firstmakesureitiscompletelythawed,thensqueezeoutanyexcessmoistureoryourdessertwillberunny.

Inalargemixingbowl,combineflour,brownsugar,andsalt.Gratebutteroverflourandtosstocombine.Add¼cup(60mL)waterandstirwithafork.Addremainderofwater1tbspatatimeasneededuntiladoughforms.Dividedoughinhalfandwrapinclingfilm.Refrigerateforatleast1hour.

Preheatovento425°F(220°C).

Sprinkleflouronworkingsurfaceandrollout1pieceofdoughlargeenoughtocoverpieplatewithanextra¼-in(6-mm)border.Placerolleddoughinpieplateandadjusttofit.Flourworkingsurfaceandrollsecondpieceofdoughtosamesizeasfirst.Cutinto10¾-in(2-cm)widestrips.

Inabowl,combinesugar,cornstarch,andcinnamon.Inalargemixingbowl,combinerhubarb,strawberries,andginger.Adddryingredientsandtosstocoat.Immediatelyfillpieplatewithfruitmixture.Buildalatticetop(seesidebar)andbrushwitheggwash,thensprinklewith1tbspsugarforglaze.Bakefor45minutes,untilfillingbubblesandthecrustisgoldenbrown.Letpiecoolfor1hourbeforeslicing.

Tomakealatticetop,layfivestripsofdoughverticallyacrosstopoffilling.Foldback1st,3rd,and5thstripshalfway,andlay1stripofdoughhorizontally

acrossmiddleofpie.That’stheequator.Unfoldthe3strips.Nowfoldback2ndand4thverticalstripsandlaydowna2ndhorizontalstripabovefirst.Unfold

the2strips.

Foldback1st,3rd,and5thstripsandlaydownanotherstripofdough,thenunfoldthestrips.Repeatproceduresouthofequator.Trimoverhangwithasharpknifeand,usingyourthumbsandforefingers,crimpendsofstripstocreatea

flutedpatternallthewayaround.

SpicyZucchiniSconesThesefluffysconesaredeliciouswithsoupsandstewsandthey

freezeexceptionallywell.

MAKES8–10SCONES

3cups(750mL)all-purposeflour4tspbakingpowder

1tspkoshersalt½tspbakingsoda½tspcayennepepper½tspgarlicpowder1cup(250mL)gratedzucchini¾cup(185mL)gratedcheddarcheese¼cup(60mL)choppedchives¼cup(60mL)choppedfreshparsley2tbspchoppedfreshdillfronds

2eggs1cup(250mL)buttermilk

4tbspmeltedbutter

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Inalargemixingbowl,whisktogetherflour,bakingpowder,salt,bakingsoda,cayenne,andgarlicpowder.Addzucchini,cheese,chives,parsley,anddill,and

tosstocombine.

Inaseparatebowl,whisktogethereggs,buttermilk,andmeltedbutter,thenaddtoflourmixture.Mixlightlywithaforkjustuntilawetdoughforms(thedoughneednotbesmooth).

Lineacookiesheetwithparchmentpaperandspoon½cup(125mL)doughforeachscone,leavingspacebetweenthem.Bakeuntillightlybrownedandatoothpickinsertedinthickestpartofsconecomesoutclean,about40minutes.

QuickFridgeRelishLateinthesummer,thebellpeppersandonionsareripeninginlargenumbers,buttomatoestakealittlelonger.Thisrelishwillmakeuseofafewgreentomatoesandrequiresnocanning

equipment.Itkeepsforacoupleofweeksinthefridge,butit’ssogood,it’llbegonebeforethen.

MAKES2½CUPS(625ML)

1tbspextravirginoliveoil1cup(250mL)mincedonions½cupmincedyellowbellpeppers1jalapeñopepper,seededandminced1garlicclove,minced½tspceleryseeds¼tspmustardseeds⅛tspgroundcloves2tbspwhitesugar2tbspsherryvinegar

1tbsplemonjuice2cups(500mL)mincedgreentomatoes1tbspchoppedfreshdillfronds

2tspkoshersalt¼tspgroundblackpepper

Inasaucepanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addonionsandsautéuntilsoft.Stirinyellowpeppers,jalapeño,garlic,celeryandmustardseeds,andcloves.Simmerfor2minutes.

Stirinsugar,vinegar,andlemonjuiceandheatthrough.Stirintomatoes,dill,salt,andpepperandsimmerfor10minutes.Addwater1tbspatatimeifthemixtureistoothick.

Randy’sAll-PurposeSeasoningUsethissimplespicemixforchicken,potatoes,seafood,orpork.It

bringsalottothetable.

MAKES¾CUP(185ML)

2tbspHungarianpaprika1tbsphotsmokedpaprika3tbspkoshersalt1tspgroundblackpepper2tbsponionpowder1tspgarlicpowder2tspcumin2tspdriedoregano

1tbspdriedthymeleaves

Combineallingredientsinajarwithalid.Sealandshake.Usegenerously.

FreshTomatoCatsupHowlocalisyourburger?Home-grownlettuceandtomatoesareagoodstart.Homepreserveslikerelishandpickles—evenbetter.Youcancertainlybuylocalpasture-raisedbeef.Thistangy,homemade

catsupisthenextlogicalstep.

MAKES1½CUPS(375ML)

2lb(1kg)plumtomatoes,diced1driedpasillapepper,seeded1driedchipotlepepper,seeded½cup(125mL)applecidervinegar1tspkoshersalt

2tspmustardpowder½tspgroundallspice¼tspgroundcloves½cup(125mL)liquidhoney½cup(125mL)tomatopaste

Onewaytocontrolsodiumorsugarinyourdietisbytakingcontrolofwhat’sinyourcatsup.Thisrecipehasverylittlesaltcomparedwithcommercialproductsandnohigh-fructosecornsyrup.Youcaneasilyadjustittotaste.SanMarzano

orRomatomatoesworkwell.

Inalargesaucepanonmediumheat,addtomatoes,peppers,andvinegar.Bringtoasimmerfor30minutes.Blenduntilsmoothwithanimmersionblenderorinafoodprocessorinbatches.Ifblendedinfoodprocessor,returntopan.

Reduceheattolowandaddsalt,mustard,allspice,cloves,honey,andtomato

paste.Simmeruncoveredfor2hours,untilitreachesdesiredthickness.

AutumnTheCircleofLife

Earth’seco-systemsareremarkablyself-contained.Thingsgrow,thingsdie.Andallthosethings—plants,animals,protozoa—aredepositedintothesoiltofuelthenextcycle.Grow,eat,poop,die.Notpretty,butthat’showthingswork.

Humansaretheonlycreaturesontheplanetthatseektointerferewiththenaturalwayofthings.Wegrowthingsinthesoil,eatthem,anddepositthenutrient-richwasteinlandfillsandtoilets,robbingthesoilofitsnaturalreturn.Withoutthosenutrientsthesoilgrowspoor,andweareforcedtofindnewsourcesofnutrientstoreturntothesoil.Toooftenthosefertilizersarefiniteresourcesminedfromanotherpartoftheearthorderivedfrompetrochemicals.

Compostingisonewaytoatleastpartlyfixthatbrokencycle,andautumniswhenweclosetheloop.Organicfarmersdoalotofcomposting,creatingcompletesystemsthatenhancesoilandminimizetheneedtobringinnutrientsfromtheoutside.Energyandnutrientsthatleavethefarm—oryourhomegarden—asfoodhavetobereplacedasinputstoproduction.

Ihavethreecompostingareasandfiveheapsinall.Aplasticstandupmodeldesignedforsuburbanbackyardstakesallourkitchenpeelings.AsunnycornernearthegardenishometoasingleheapthatIfeedleafygardentrim.Ashadiercorneroftheyardhostsathree-heapsystemwhereIdepositmixedgrassclippingsandshreddedleavesfrommylawn,choppedupstalksandrootballsfromthemaingarden,andwhateverfallenleavesandherbivoremanureIcanacquireintheneighborhood.

Thestandupbingetsemptiedonceayearandproducesrich,blackcompost,enoughforasmallfront-yardvegetablegarden.It’sclosetothekitchen,soit’snobothertofeed.Everyhomeshouldhavesomeplacetocompostorganickitchenwaste;itreallyisacrimetothrowitaway.Andthat’snoexaggeration;someregionshavebannedfoodwastefromthewastestreamaltogether.

IlikelargeopencompostheapsbecauseIcanreallyseewhatisgoingoninside.Ican’thelpbutpeek,poke,prod,andintervenewhenIgetbored.It’scompletelyokaytocheckinsideyourcompostheaps.Everytimeyoudo,youintroduceoxygenthatwillassistintheprocessofdecomposition.

Inthethree-heapsystem,thefirstheaptakestheraw,chunkygardenwaste—leavesandgrassinthelatesummerandearlyfall.Inthespring,Ishovelthatmaterialontothesecondheap,aeratingitintheprocess.Sixmonthslater,Imoveallthatmaterialtothethirdheap—aeratingitagain—whereitremainsuntilspring.Attheendofeighteenmonths,Ihaveadark,homogeneoushumus,whichisrichfinishedcompost.

Therecipeforgoodcompostissimple:Mixbrownsandgreens,moisten,andstandback.Brownsincludefallenleavesandsun-driedweedsandgardentrim.Greensconsistofgrassclippings,wetvegetabletrimfromthekitchen,andplantstalksandfreshfoliagefromthegarden.Cutupyoursummergardenwaste,stalks,leaves,androotballsandletthemdryonthedrivewayoronatarp.Saveshreddedleavesandgrassclippings.Situateyourcompostinashadycorneroftheyard.Putdownatarptodiscouragerootsfromgrowingintotheheap.A

singleheapwillrequireaspaceabout5ftwideand5ftdeep(1.5by1.5m).Threeheapsrequireaspacealmost20ft(6m)wideby5ft(1.5m)deep.

Buildingacompostheaponawoodenshippingpallethelpsaeratetheheapfrombelow.

Inthefall,useyourmowertopickuptheleavesonthelawn,shreddingtheleavesandmixingthemwithgreengrassinoneeasystep.Thatinstantmixofgreenandbrowncangodirectlyontothecompost.Ifyoudon’thavealawnmower,pullonyourgardeninggloves,raketheleaves,andbreakthemupwithyourhandsasfinelyaspossible.Ithelpsiftheyarereallydry.

Avoidusingcedarandjuniperdufforlaurelleavesinyourcompostastheyretardmicrobialaction.

Tobuildtheheap,laydownabaseoffine,twiggygardentrim.Useoreganostems,driedpeavines,oatstraw,anddriedasparagusfernstocreatesomeairspace,thenalternatelayersoffreshanddriedgardenwastewithlayersofmixedgrassclippingsandshreddedbrownleaves.Moistenthepilewithafinesprayfromthehoseasyoubuildlayers.Dusteverysecondlayerwith½cup(125mL)BasicFertilizerMix(p.14)toacceleratemicrobialaction.Everysecondorthirdlayer,throwonaspadefullofmaturecompostfromanotherheaporrichgardensoil.Includeasmanywormsasyoucanfind.Thisinoculatestheheapwiththebacteriaandothermicrobesthatwillquicklybreakdownplantwaste,plusitintroducesourfriendtheearthwormtoawhackinggreatfoodsupply.

Everycoupleofmonths,takeagardenforkandfluffupthepile,movingsomematerialfromthebottomtothetopandthestuffontoptothebottom.Whenthewetseasonstarts,placeatarporapieceofplasticontoptopreventrainfromwashingallyournutrientsaway.Whilethepileshouldbemoist,a

soddenpilewillnotproperlydecay.Ifyouarecompostinginasingleheap,turnthepileoverwheneveryougetbored.Themoreoftenyouaerate,thequickerandmorecompletelythepiledecomposes.

You’veprobablyreadaboutaerobiccompostingandvermicomposting,butinmyexperienceit’snotnecessarytoseparatethetwoinabackyardgarden.Mymethodemploysbothandallowsnaturetotakeitsnaturalcourse.

Layersoffreshgrassclippingswillmatdownandturnintoaslimyanaerobicmassinyourcompost.Mixfreshgrasswithbrownleavestokeepthecompostheapproperlyaerated.

Formyapartment-dwellingfriends:Conventionalcompostingisnotlikelytobeagoodmatchforyoururbanlifestyle.Evenonepersonproducestoomuchfoodwastetocomfortablycompostunderthesink(itcanstarttosmellquitequickly)oronabalconywithouthelp.Enterthelowlyworm.Vermicompostingisthebestsolutionforsmall-spaceapplications,andwormsusuallyworkfast,consumingyourscraps

beforetheydecay.Gardencentersandlargerseedsupplierssellself-containedvermicompostingkits,anoptionIstronglyrecommend.Theresultingwormcastingsarearichandnutritiousmediumforplantgrowth.

PUTTHEGARDENTOBEDNatureabhorsanemptyspace.Anygroundinyourgardenthatisn’tcoveredwithplantsoralayerofmulchisanopeninvitationtoweeds.Youshouldplantormulcheverysquareinchofgardenorriskanoutbreakofunwantedinvasivevisitors.

Setasideapartofthegardenforyourearliestspringcrops,thevegetablesyouwillplantbeforeitiswarmenoughtoworkthesoil,suchaspeas,spinach,andbroadbeans.Coverthisareawitha6-in(15-cm)layerofshreddedleaves.Inthespring,justbrushtheleavesaside,andyouarereadytoplant.

Mulchprotectsthesoilbyabsorbingsomeoftherainasitfalls,preventingitfromwashingthenutrientsoutofthesoil.Astheleavesbreakdown,theyalsocreateabeneficialenvironment—aswellasahandyfoodsource—forearthworms.Earthwormcastingsareagreatsourceofnutrientsforplants,andearthwormtunnelshelpcreateexcellentsoilstructure.Iharvestfallleavesfromanearbyparkandevenrakemyneighbor’sleavesandhaulthembacktomyyard.Youjustcan’thavetoomanyleaves.

Ifyourlocalclimateallowsit,setasidesomegardenspaceforhardywintervegetablessuchasparsley,Swisschard,kale,andleeks.Seedlingsestablishedinthefirstdaysoffallmaywelloverwinterandprovideanearlyharvestinspring.

Thebalanceofthegardenshouldbeplantedinlateautumnwithacovercroptomaintainsoilstructure,preservenutrients,andincreasetheamountoforganicmaterialinyoursoil.Legumes,suchascloverandfieldpeas,areparticularlyeffectiveforimprovingsandyandclay-richsoilsanddeliveranextrapunchofnitrogen.Whitecloverisapotentnitrogenfixerandcreatesathickrootmassnearthesurfaceofthesoilthatencouragessoilaerationwhenitdecays.Ihavealsousedwhitecloverinmygardenpathsduringthesummertosuppressweeds.(Makesureyourpathsarewideenoughtobringinthelawnmoweronceamonth.)Crimsoncloversendsroots4–5ft(1.2–1.5m)deepinthesoil—literallydraggingnutrientsclosertothesurface—anditputson2ft(61cm)oflushgrowthabovethesoilinspringforabighitofgreenmanure.

Cerealgrassesbringsomethingalittledifferenttotheparty.Fallryeusually

survivesevenharshwinterweatherandiswidelyusedoncommercialfarmsasasoilconditioner.Itispopularwithhomegardenersbutrequirestilling.

Oatsdeliveralargerpayoffinorganicmaterialandareusuallykilledoffduringthewinterbyahardfrost.Ifyoudon’tintendtotillinthespring—orever,ifyouuseano-tillsystem—theoatswillbemostlydeadanddecayingbythetimeyoushowuptohoethemin.Cloversandhardygrasses,suchasfallrye,aremuchhardertokillinano-tillsystem.Theleftoveroatstrawisusefultokeepthesoillooseandaeratedonyourpotatopatchthefollowingspring,soIalwaysplantitwhereIexpecttoseedpotatoesthefollowingyear.MynativesoilissopoorandsandythatIuseacombinationoffallrye,crimsonclover,andfieldlegumes—soallmybasesarecovered.Manygardencenterssellsimilarseedmixesforcovercropping.

Oncethesummervegetablesareremovedfromthegarden,broadcastcovercropseedsbyhand,accordingtotheseedseller’sdirections.Gentlyrakingtheseedsintothesurfaceofthesoilwillimprovegerminationanddiscouragethelocalbirdpopulationfromeatingthembeforetheysprout.

HOWTOGROWLEEKSLeeksareamildmemberoftheonionfamilyandmakeafabulousflavorbaseforstewsandsoups.Growingleekstakestime,patience,andnurturing,butthepayoffissubstantial.

Sowleeksthicklyin4-inchpotsinJuly,andbySeptembertheywillbeabout10in(25cm)tallandreadytotransplant.Thetricktogettingareallygoodleekforcookingistoensurethatatleast6in(15cm)oftheplantisundergroundtoencouragealongwhiteroot.Becausetherootsoftheplantwillbewellbelowthesurface,youneedtopreparethesoildeeply.

Constructasimplegardenboxbynailingtogetherfour3-ft(1-m)lengthsof2×6lumberinasquare.Removethetop3in(8cm)ofsoilfromagardenbedslightlylargerthanyourframeandplaceitinawheelbarrow.Sprinkle4cups(1L)BasicFertilizerMix(p.14)evenlyoverthebed.Placethewoodframeonthebedandadd2gal(8L)finishedcompost.Mixthecompostandfertilizerintothesoilwithahoe.

Mixthesoilinthewheelbarrowwithanequalamountofcompostanduseittofilltheframe.Toplanttheleeks,removetheentireblockofpottingsoilfromthenurserycontainer.Therootsoftheleekseedlingswillbeintertwined.Separatetheleeksbygentlyshakingandpullingtherootsapart.Diptherootmassintoabucketofwatertowashawaysomeofthesoil,iftheyareresisting

separation.Makesuretherootsdon’tdryoutwhileyouaretransplanting.Toplanttheseedlings,pushatrowelstraightdownintothesoil,about7in

(18cm)deep.Pushthesoiltothesidetocreateagapandslidetheleekdownintothespaceyoucreatedbehindthetrowel,about6in(15cm)deep.Slidethetrowelstraightupfromtheholeandletthesoilfalllooselyaroundthestalkoftheplant.Planttheseedlingsabout6in(15cm)apart.Whenalltheleeksareplanted,useawateringcantomudtheentirebed.

Asthecompostinyoursoilmixturebreaksdownoverthenextcoupleofmonths,itwillmakeroomfortheexpandinggirthofyourleeks.Thecompostalsoaddsprotectionagainstthebeddryingout,actingasmulch.

HOMECANNINGBASICSHomecanningisimmenselyrewardingandrelativelysimpleonceyougrasptheessentials.Neartheendofthegrowingseason,manyhomegardenersareinundatedwithfreshproduce,farmorethantheycaneatfresh.Canningisaneffectivewaytopreservethebountyfortheleanermonthsahead.

Theenvironmentisfullofyeasts,molds,andbacteriathatpromotedecay.Topreservefoods,youmustcreateasealedenvironment,freeofpathogens.Heatprocessingraisesthetemperatureinsideasealedcontainerenoughtoensurethatallsuchmicro-organismsaredestroyed.Home-canningkitscanbepurchasedatmanyhardwareandhomestores.Ifyouareanovice,Istronglyrecommendthatyoubuyacompletekitratherthantryingtoassemblethegearyourselfandriskhavingthewrongtoolsforthejob.

Ahomecanningoutfitshouldinclude:

• alarge,deeppotandafittedmetalrackwithhandlestoraiseandlowerthejars

• longrubber-linedjar-liftingtongsforhandlinghotjars• acanningfunneltokeepjaredgesclean• aladle,metaltongs,andalong-handledspoon• Masonjarswithfittedsnaplidsandsealingrings

Ensurethejarsareclean,thenimmersetheminboilingwateruntilneeded.Placelids,rings,metaltongs,andladleinalargebowlandcoverwithboilingwaterfromthekettle.Removethemwithanothersetoftongsasneeded.

Setupaworkflowwithanareaforfillingjarsnexttothestoveandaspacelinedwithteatowelsontheothersideofthestoveforrestingjarsaftertheyareprocessed.

Usethefunnelandaladletopourfoodsintothejarstokeepjaredgesascleanaspossible.Usealong-handledspoontopushfooddownfromthetopofthejar(creatingthe“headspace,”thedistancebetweenthetopofthecontentsandtheedgeofthejar)beforeremovingthefunnel.Useacleanclothtowipeoffanyresiduefromthejaredges.

Placeasterilelidoneachfulljarusingtongs,andseal,finger-tight,witharing.Placethejarsontherackandlowerintoboilingwaterforthetimeprescribedbytherecipe.Thetopsofthejarsshouldbeatleast1in(2.5cm)belowthesurfaceofthewater.Topupwithboilingwaterfromthekettle,ifnecessary.Removetheprocessedjarswithajarlifterandmovetotherestingstation.

Asthejarscool,thelidsshouldsnapdownwithreversepressure.Lidsthatdonotsnapdownarenotproperlysealedandshouldnotbestoredforlongperiods.Itissafesttoletthemfinishcoolingandthenstoreintherefrigeratorforshort-termconsumption.

Processingtimesandheadspacevarybyjarsizeandcontents.

Normalheatprocessingisusedforfoodswithhighacidity,suchaspickles,relishes,andfruitjams.Low-acidfoods,suchasunbrinedvegetablesandmeats,requirepressurecanningtoachieveaninternaltemperatureof240°F(116°C).

Mostmodernvarietiesoftomatoesaretoolowinaciditytobesafelycannedwithouttheadditionoflemonjuiceorvinegar.

Old-FashionedBread&ButterPicklesClassicDillPickles

Old-FashionedRelishSpicyPickledBeets

EvenEasierPickledBeetsFarm-StylePearSauce

GardenHarvestMinestrone

African-StyleButternutSquashSoupRoastedTomatoBasilSoup

Darcy’sOnionSoupBakedChicken&Rice(ArrozconPollo)

Lamb&SpinachKebabsLambShoulderChopswithCorianderRub

AfricanLambShanksHerbedMustardRackofLamb

GrilledLambwithHerbsFrenchLentilStewwithLambSausagesDarcy’sNewWorldBologneseSauce

SpicyMeatballsinGreekTomatoSauceBeef&SpinachCabbageRollsBakedZucchiniRatatouille

AngryPennewithSpicyArrabiataSauceRoastedCauliflower

GreenBeanswithPepitasGrilledAutumnVegetablesBacon&MushroomKale

DuckFatRosemaryPotatoesRoastedGarlicMashedPotatoes

CheddarDillBiscuitsFrankShore’sDumplings

ParmesanFricosApple-PearStreusel

Old-FashionedBread&ButterPicklesThisisanoldbutagelessfamilyrecipe.Ilovethesepicklesonhot

dogs,besideasandwich,inabox,andwithafox.

MAKES6PINT(500-ML)JARS

4lb(1.8kg)fieldcucumbers

2Spanishonions¼cup(60mL)coarsepicklingsalt

48icecubes2cups(500mL)applecidervinegar½cup(125mL)whitevinegar3cups(750mL)sugar2tbspmustardseeds1tbspceleryseeds

1tspgroundturmeric¼tspgroundcloves1roastedredbellpepper(p.45)

Scrubcucumberscleanandslice¼-in(6-mm)thick.Peelandcutonionsinhalfandsliceasthinlyaspossible.Tosscucumbersandonionsinalargebowlwithpicklingsaltand24icecubes.Placeremainingicecubesovertopofmixandletstandfor3hours.Immersemixtureinfreshcoldwatertwiceandsetasidetodrain.

Immerse6pint(500-mL)canningjarswithlidsandringsinboilingwater.Removefromwaterasneeded.

Inalargepotonhighheat,combinevinegar,sugar,mustardandceleryseeds,turmeric,andcloves.Bringtoaboil.Roughlychoproastedredpepperandaddtopotalongwithcucumbersandonions.Reduceheattolowandsimmerfor5minutes.Ladlehotmixtureintojars,leaving½-in(1-cm)headspace.

Coverwithasterilizedlidandseal,finger-tight,witharing.Processjarsinboilingwaterfor10minutes.Setasidetocool.

ClassicDillPicklesHomepreservingismakingahugecomebackandthereisnoeasier

placetostartthananicelow-riskdillpickle.EvenpeopleinNeolithictimessuccessfullypickledfood,sothere’snoreasonyou

can’tdoit.

MAKES61QT/LJARS

5lb(2.2kg)picklingcucumbers3cups(750mL)whitevinegar1cup(250mL)coarsepicklingsalt6largesprigsdillweed

6garliccloves

SafetyNote:Thisisanoldfamilyrecipethatdoesnotcallforheatprocessing.However,manymodernrecipesdirectyoutosubmergefreshlyfilledjarsinboilingwateraftersealing.Ifyouchoosethisroute,leave½-in(1-cm)

headspaceattopofjarbeforeyousealit.Immersejarsinboilingwaterbathfor10minutes.

Thoroughlyscrubcucumbersundercoldrunningwater.Inalargepotonhighheat,bring10cups(2.5L)water,vinegar,andsalttoaboil.

Inasecondpotofboilingwater,place61qt/LMasonjars,lids,andrings.Removeasrequiredandplace1sprigdillweedand1garliccloveinbottomofeachjar.Tiltjartowardyouandplacecucumbersverticallyinjar.Usesmallercucumberstofillgapsattopofjar.Pourboilingbrineintojarsandfilltotop.Coverwithasterilizedlidandseal,finger-tight,witharing.Setasidetocool.

Old-FashionedRelishCommerciallypreparedrelishoftencontainsstarchfromgenetically

engineeredcorn,high-fructosecornsyrup,sodiumbenzoate,potassiumsorbate,xanthamgum,polysorbate80,andsulfites.Iprefercondimentsmadefromnaturalingredients.Weservethisrelishatoursummerbarbecuepartiesandalwaysendupgiving

peoplejarstotakehome.It’sthatgood.

MAKES8PINT(500-ML)JARS

4cups(1L)groundcucumbers4cups(1L)groundcelery4cups(1L)groundonions2greenbellpeppers,ground1redbellpepper,ground⅔cup(160mL)picklingsalt4cups(1L)sugar2¾cups(685mL)whitevinegar1tspgroundturmeric1tspcurrypowder1tbspmustardseeds

1tbspceleryseeds¾cup(185mL)allpurposeflour1¼cups(310mL)whitevinegar

Grindvegetablesinameatgrinderorusethepulsebuttonofafoodprocessor.

Placegroundvegetablesinalarge,non-reactive(glass,ceramic,orstainlesssteel)bowlandstirinpicklingsalt.Refrigerateovernight.Rinsemixturewithcoldwaterandsqueezeoutmoisture.

Inalargepotonhighheat,combinesugarand2¾cups(685mL)whitevinegar.Addturmeric,currypowder,andmustardandceleryseeds.Bringtoaboil.Addgroundvegetablesandsimmerfor10minutes.

Inabowl,whiskflourwith1¼cups(310mL)vinegar.Whilestirringbriskly,addtovegetablemixture.Cookfor15minutes.

Ladlemixtureintosterilizedpint(500-mL)jars,leaving¼-in(6-mm)headspace.Coverwithasterilizedlidandseal,finger-tight,witharing.Immersejarsinboilingwaterandprocessfor10minutes.Removeandsetasidetocool.

SpicyPickledBeetsIhavealife-longloveaffairwithpickledbeets,whichwerealwaysasweet,tangystapleonthetableatNana’shouse.Thesespicypickles

willkeepforseveralyears.

MAKES4PINT(500-ML)JARS

4lb(1.8kg)redbeets2cups(500mL)whitevinegar1cup(250mL)whitesugar1tspcoarsesalt12wholecloves

12allspiceberries

Inalargepotofboilingwater,simmerwhole,unpeeledbeetsuntilknife-tender,atleast20–30minutes.Removeandletcoolfor5minutes.

Inaseparatepot,boil1cup(250mL)water,vinegar,sugar,andsalt.Add3wholeclovesand3allspiceberriestoeachjar.Slicebeetstodesiredthickness(⅛–¼in[3–6mm])andpacktightlyinsterilizedpint(500-mL)canningjars.Ladleboilinghotpicklingliquidoverbeets,leaving½-in(1-cm)headspace.Coverwithasterilizedlidandseal,finger-tight,witharing.Immersejarsinboilingwaterfor10minutes.Removeandsetasidetocool.

EvenEasierPickledBeetsNospecialequipmentorprocessingisneededforthisrefrigeratorversionofpickledbeets,buttheydon’tkeepforever.Plantogivesomeaway.Usealongbeet,suchasCylindra,Taunus,orRodina

forauniform-sizedpickle.

MAKES8CUPS(2L)

3lb(1.5kg)beets2cups(500mL)applecidervinegar1¾cups(415mL)whitesugar1tbspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundallspice

10wholecloves

Inalargepotonhighheat,boilwhole,unpeeledbeetsinwateruntilknife-tender,about25minutes.Drainandcoverwithcoldwater.Setasideuntilcool.Withasharpknife,peelbeetsandremovestemsandroots.Sliceinto¼-in(6-mm)rounds.

Inalargesaucepanonhighheat,combinevinegar,2cups(500mL)water,sugar,cinnamon,allspice,andcloves.Bringtoaboilandsimmerfor3minutes.Addbeetsandsimmerfor15minutes.Removeandsetasidetocool.Placebeetsandliquidincleanjars.Sealwithcleanlidsandkeeprefrigerated.Willkeepforupto1month.

Farm-StylePearSauceInmyneighborhood,youeitherpickyourpearsearlyora400-lbblackbeardoesitforyou.Recently,Boo-boogoteverysinglepearfromtwoofmytreesandleftmewithabunchofmangledbranches.Thefollowingseason,Iwasreadyforhim.IpickedeverypearattheendofAugust.Whilesomeofthefruitripensreadily,somemayremainpersistentlygreen.Nomatter;whenyoumakepearsauce,youcanuseamixofripeandfirmfruit.Iletthekidsstirthispearsauceintotheiryogurtordollopitonporkchops.Pearsaucecan

alsobesubstitutedforapplesauceinsweetloafcakes.

MAKES4–5½-PINT(250-ML)JARS

4lb(1.8kg)Boscpears,peeled,cored,andsliced1tbsplemonjuice

1tspgroundcinnamon2tbspbrownsugar(optional)

Inalargesaucepanonmediumhighheat,combinepearslices,lemonjuice,and¼cup(60mL)waterandbringtoaboil.Reduceheatandsimmerfor15minutes.Stirincinnamonand,ifyouwish,sugar.Tasteandadjustforsweetness,addingsugar1tbspatatime.Forasmoothsauce,blendinafoodprocessororwithanimmersionblender.

Freezeinplastictubsorpreserveinjars,withahomecanningrig.

Tocanpearsauce,ladleinto½-pint(250-mL)jars,leaving½-in(1-cm)headspace.Wiperimsclean.Coverwithasterilizedlidandseal,finger-tight,

witharing.Immersejarsinboilingwaterfor10minutes.Removeandsetasidetocool.

GardenHarvestMinestroneMinestroneistheperfectsoupforharvestseason,whenalltheingredientsarereadytopickatthesametime.I’mcertainthatishowthetraditionalrecipewasinvented.Whyfoolwithperfection?

Theseflavorsmakesensetogether.

MAKES6SERVINGS

2tbspextravirginoliveoil2oz(60g)pancetta,cutinto¼-in(6-mm)strips1cup(250mL)dicedonions2celerystalks,halvedandchopped1cup(250mL)dicedcarrots2garliccloves,minced1½cups(355mL)dicedzucchini2cups(500mL)choppedlacinatokale128-oz(796-mL)canplumtomatoes2cups(500mL)Homemade(p.176)orlow-sodiumchickenstock½cup(125mL)whitewine¼tspgroundblackpepper1Parmesancheeserind(optional)½cup(125mL)driedmacaroni114-oz(398-mL)cancannellinibeans,drainedandwashed2tbspchoppedfreshfennelfronds¼cup(60mL)finelygratedParmesancheese

12freshbasilleaves

Cannedtomatoes,bacon,cheese,andstockmayallcontainsalt,butinamountsthatdifferbybrand.Youwillneedtotasteyoursoupattheendofthecooking

processandseasonittotaste.

Inalargesaucepanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addpancettaandsauté,stirringoccasionally,untilcrisp.Addonions,celery,carrots,andgarlic,andsautéuntilsoftened,about10minutes.Addzucchiniandkale.Breakupwholetomatoeswithyourfingersbeforeaddingtopan.

Addstock,wine,pepper,andcheeserind.Simmerfor10minutes.Tasteandseasonwithsalt,ifdesired.Addmacaroniandbeansandsimmerfor15minutes.Removeanddiscardcheeserind.Stirinfennelfronds.Garnishbowlswithcheeseandbasilleaves.

Clockwisefromtop:RoastedTomatoBasilSoup(p.140),CheddarDillBiscuits(p.163),African-styleButternutSquashSoup(opposite)

African-StyleButternutSquashSoupHarissaisafierycondimentmadefromredbellpeppers,chilies,

andavarietyofspicesthatoriginateinNorthAfrica.Ithelpstemperthenaturalsweetnessofthesquash.

MAKES6SERVINGS

3lb(1.5kg)butternutsquash2½tspkoshersalt,divided1½tbspoliveoil,divided2cups(500mL)dicedonions1headroastedgarlic(p.141)3cups(750mL)low-sodiumchickenorvegetablestock1–2tspharissapaste,totaste

6tbspsourcreamcilantro,forgarnish

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Splitsquashandremoveseeds.Placehalvesskinsidedownonabakingsheetandseasonwith½tspsaltand½tbspoliveoil.Bakefor1hour,untiltender.Setasidetocool,thenremovefleshwithaspoon.

Inalargesaucepanonmedium,heatremainderofoil.Sautéonionsuntillightlybrowned,about5minutes.

Addsquash,roastedgarlic,stock,harissa,andremainderofsalt.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheattolowandsimmerfor30minutes.Blenduntilsmoothwithanimmersionblenderorinanuprightblenderorfoodprocessor.Garnisheachbowlwith1tbspsourcreamandafewcilantroleaves.

RoastedTomatoBasilSoupDelicatelynuanced,withnaturalsugarsandaromaticbasil,thistomatosoupcannotbebeat.Roastingcaramelizesandmellowsthe

tomatoesandgarlic.

MAKES4SERVINGS

2lb(1kg)plum-sizedtomatoes,halved2garliccloves,minced1½tspkoshersalt,divided1½tspcrackedblackpepper,divided3tbspoliveoil,divided½cup(125mL)dicedonions¼cup(60mL)mincedshallots½cup(125mL)cream½cup(125mL)milk½cup(125mL)low-sodiumchickenorvegetablestock¼cup(60mL)choppedbasilleaves3tbspsourcream1tbspmilk

1tbspmincedbasilleaves

Placeabout10–12plum-sizedtomatoes(roughly2lb[1kg])ontoacookiesheetandfreeze.Whenthey’refrozensolid,throwthemintoaziplockbagtostoreinthefreezer.Nowyouhaveyourowngarden-growntomatoestoaddtosoups,

stews,andsaucesallwinterlong.

IgrowSanMarzanotomatoesforsaucesbecauseofthehighratiooffleshto

seeds.AmishPasteandRomaarealsogoodchoices.Ittakesabout6plum-sizedtomatoestomakeupapound(500g).

Preheatovento300°F(150°C).

Inalargeroastingpan,placehalvedtomatoescutsideup.Sprinklewithgarlic,½tspsalt,and½tsppepper,anddrizzlewith2tbspoliveoil.Bakefor2hours.

Inalargepotonmedium-low,heat1tbspoliveoil.Sautéonionsandshallotsuntilsoft,about5minutes.Addroastedtomatoesandpanjuicesandmashwithaspoon.Addcream,milk,stock,remainderofsaltandpepper,and¼cup(60mL)basilandcookforabout5minutes.Blenduntilsmoothwithanimmersionblender,orinanuprightblenderorfoodprocessor.

Inasmallbowl,combinesourcream,1tbspmilk,andmincedbasil.Ladlesoupintobowlsandgarnishwithsourcreammixture.

RoastedGarlic

Pungentgarlictakesonanuttysweetnesswhenroasted.It’stheperfectwaytoflavorsoupsandmashedpotatoes,asacondimentwithgrilledmeats,orsimplyspreadonacracker.Imakeupto6atatime.

1headgarlic⅛tspkoshersalt¼tspextravirginoliveoil

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Cuttop¼in(6mm)fromgarlicbulbtoexposeinsideofeachclove.Placeheadonasheetoffoil.Seasontopwithsaltandoliveoil,wrapfoilovertoseal,and

roastfor50–60minutes.

Darcy’sOnionSoupFrenchonionsoupisabitofadustyclassic.Popularinthe’60s

and’70s,itwasdonesowidelyandsobadlythatitbecameabitofajoke.Butdonewell,reallydeepflavorsemergefromthecookingprocess,thekindyouwillnevergetfromapacketortin.ForgetFrenchonionsoup—thisishowwedoonionsoupinCanada.

(Actually,it’showmywifedoesit.)

MAKES4SERVINGS

3Spanishonions3shallots

5mediumleeks1tbspextravirginoliveoil

1tbspbutter2garliccloves,chopped

2tspfreshthymeleaves4cups(1L)Homemade(p.176)orlow-sodiumchickenstock

1tspseasalt¼tspgroundblackpepper

4slicesFrenchbread1cup(250mL)gratedGruyèreorwhitecheddarcheese

freshthymeleaves,forgarnish

Peel,halve,andthinlysliceonionsandshallots.Splitandrinseleekstoremovegrit,thenthinlyslicewhitestalks(don’tusegreentopsandroots).

Inalargesaucepanonmedium,heatoliveoilandbutter.Sautéonions,shallots,andleeks,stirringaboutonceaminute,untiltheyturngoldenbrownandvolumereducesbyabouttwo-thirds.Addgarlicandthymeandsautéforanother2minutes.Addchickenstockandsimmerfor10minutes.Seasonsouptotastewithsaltandpepper.

Preheatbroilertohigh.Ladlesoupinto4oven-proofbowls.Toastbreadandplaceontopofeachbowl.Sprinkle¼cup(60mL)gratedcheeseontopofeachslice.Placeunderbroilerforabout4–8minutes,untilgoldenbrownandbubbling.Garnishwithasprinkleoffreshthymeleaves.

BakedChicken&Rice(ArrozconPollo)Gonearethedayswhenaccomplishedcooksandprofessionalchefs

feltthattomake“authentic”ItalianorSpanishfood,theingredientshadtocomefromItalyorSpain.Evenafewyearsago,localprosciuttoandserrano-stylehamcouldn’tholdacandletotherealthing.Thathaschanged.Makethisdishwiththeterroirofyoursurroundings,usinglocalandhome-growningredients.YourArrozconPollocanbeofthisplace,notthatone.Dothis,andyoucanforgiveyourselfalittletubofimportedgreenolivesfromSpain.

Thinkofitasatipofyourhattothecountrythatinventedthedish.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

1tbspcanolaoil4oz(115g)baconorSerrano-styleham,cutinto¼-in(6-mm)strips13–4-lb(1.4–1.8-kg)fryerchicken,cutintopieces

1tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper

2tspsmokedpaprika2cups(500mL)dicedonions3garliccloves,chopped2cups(500mL)basmatirice3cups(750mL)low-sodiumchickenstock1cup(250mL)peasorblanchedgreenbeans½cup(125mL)dicedroastedredpepper(p.45)¼cup(60mL)pitted,choppedgreenolives

Preheatovento300°F(150°C).

Inaheavy-bottomedpanonmedium,heatcanolaoil.Addbaconandsautéuntilcrisp.Removebaconandsetaside.Seasonchickenpieceswithsalt,pepper,andpaprika.Addtopanandbrownfor5minutesoneachside.Removechickenandsetaside.Sautéonionsandgarlicforabout5minutes,untilgolden.Addriceandstiruntilcoatedwithoil.Increaseheattomedium-highandpourinstock.Returnchickentopan,andbringtoalowboilfor10minutes.Tasteandseasonwithadditionalsalt,ifdesired.Coverpotwithtight-fittinglidandbakefor30minutes.Stirinpeasorbeans,roastedpeppers,andolives.Coverwithlidandletsitfor5minutes.Sprinklebaconovertopandserve.

Lamb&SpinachKebabsFreshspinachaddsmoistureandtendernesstothisMiddleEasternfavorite.Sunflowerseedsaddalittlecrunch.Kebabsarehappiestwrappedinwarm,freshpitabread.ServewithSalsaVerde(p.30)

andSuperSimplePitaBread(p.62).

MAKES6SERVINGS

1lb(500mL)groundlamb1garlicclove,minced½tspgroundcumin½tspgroundblackpepper

1tspkoshersalt1egg,lightlybeaten½cup(125mL)choppedspinach¼cup(60mL)sunflowerseeds

3tbspplainbreadcrumbs

Inmyrecipes,youcansubstitutearugulaforspinachtoaddagrown-uphintofbitternessandpepperybite.

Soak6bambooskewersinwaterfor30minutes.

Inalargemixingbowl,mixallingredients.Kneadwithyourhandsuntilmixturefirmsup.Formmixtureintoballsaboutthesizeofasmallmandarinorange,and

thenrollintoatubeshapeandrunaskewerthroughitlengthwise.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

Preheatbarbecuetohigh.Coatgrillwithcanolaoiltopreventsticking.Grillkebabsforabout3minutesbeforeturningthem.(Theymaystickifyoudon’tallowthemeattobrownandformacrustwhereitisincontactwiththegrill.)After3minutes,turnevery1–2minutesuntilkebabsarebrownedandfirmtothetouch,about7–8minutes.

LambShoulderChopswithCorianderRubCilantroroutinelyboltsintheheatofsummer,creatingtoughseedytopsratherthanlushgreenfoliage,butthiscoriander-rubbedlambshouldermadefromtheseedsisaproverbialsilverlininginthat

cloud.ServewithChickpeasinCilantroPesto(p.34).

MAKES4SERVINGS;CORIANDERRUBMAKES¼CUP(60ML)

¼cup(60mL)CorianderRub(seesidebar)2tbspextravirginoliveoil48-oz(230-g)lambshoulderchops¼cup(60mL)cilantroleaves1lemon,cutintowedges

CORIANDERRUB:2tbspcorianderseeds1tbspcuminseeds2tspwholeblackpeppercorns

2tspkoshersalt

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Inasmallbowl,combineCorianderRubwitholiveoilandrubonlambchops.Setasidefor1hour.

Inacast-ironfryingpanonmedium-highheat,searlambchopsfor2minutesoneachside.Placefryingpanandchopsinovenandbakefor5minutes.Removefromovenandcoverwithfoilfor5minutes,thensprinklewithcilantroleavesandsqueezelemonwedgesovertop.

CORIANDERRUB:

Inadryfryingpanonmediumheat,toastcorianderandcuminseedsandpeppercornsuntilfragrant,about3minutes.Grindtoastedspicesinamortarandpestleorspicegrinder.Combinewithsalt.

AfricanLambShanksPeanutsandchiliesgivethisdishasubtlebutexotictwist.Don’tbe

intimidatedbythelonglistofingredients;mostofthisstuffisalreadysittingaroundinyourpantry.Useabigoven-proofpotwithatight-fittinglid.Thelongcookingtimeensurestendermeatandrich,well-developedflavors.Substituteblackpeppercornsifyou

can’tfindIndonesianlongpepper.

MAKES4SERVINGS

4lambshanks2tspkoshersalt,divided1tspgroundIndonesianlongpepper,divided

3tbspoliveoil1cup(250mL)dicedcelery1cup(250mL)dicedonions2greenonions,chopped3carrots,roughlychopped1garlicclove,chopped1redbellpepper,diced1driedredchilipepper,crumbled1tspgroundcumin

1tspsmokedhotpaprika½cup(125mL)whitewine

3tbsppeanutbutter

1½cups(375mL)low-sodiumchickenorvealstock¼cup(60mL)choppedpeanuts

2tbspcilantroleaves

Preheatovento250°F(120°C).

Rubshankswith1tspsaltand½tsppepper.Inaheavy-bottomedpotonmedium,heatoliveoil.Searshanksforabout5minutesoneachsurface.Removeshanksandsetaside.Addcelery,onions,carrots,garlic,andbellpeppersandsautéuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addchili,cumin,paprika,andremainderofsaltandpepperandstiruntilfragrant.Increaseheattomedium-high,addwhitewine,andbringtoaboiltoevaporatealcohol.Stirinpeanutbutteruntilwellcombined,thenaddstock.Returnlambshankstopotandworkthemdownuntilmostlycovered.Coverpotwithlidandbakefor2hours.Turnshanksoverandbakefor1morehour.Garnishwithchoppedpeanutsandcilantroleaves.

Left:Bacon&MushroomKale(p.160)Right:AfricanLambShanks(opposite)

HerbedMustardRackofLambYouandyourpartnercansharearackoflambforlessthanthe

priceoftwosteaks,andit’samuchmoreromanticdish.Springthisoneonyourspouseforhomedatenightwithabottleofredwine.

ServealongsideGreenBeanswithPepitas(p.158).

MAKES2SERVINGS

18-bonerackoflamb¼tspfineseasalt1tspfreshthymeleaves

1tbspfreshrosemaryleaves¼tspkoshersalt

10wholeblackpeppercorns1tbspextravirginoliveoil½tspwholegrainmustard

1tspDijonmustard

Howtoremovesilverskin:Loinsandprimalcutsofmeatoftenhaveasheetoftough,chewyconnectivetissueontheoutsideofthemusclethatmustberemovedbeforecooking.Usingaverysharp,thin-bladedknife,slidetipundersilverskinabout1in(2.5cm)fromedgeandcutoutwardtocreateaflatribbon.Useasmallpieceofpapertoweltogripsilverskin.Turnknifebladebacktoward

uncutsilverskin.Glideknifebetweenskinandmeat,keepingbladeofknifeflat

andflushwithskin.Uselong,gentlestrokesasyoucut.

Removelambfromrefrigerator1hourbeforecookingtowarmtoroomtemperature.Removesilverskin(seesidebar)andseasonwithseasalt.Coverandsetaside.

Preheatovento425°F(220°C).

Roughlychopthymeandrosemaryandplaceinamortarwithkoshersaltandpeppercorns.Grinduntilfine.(Saltactsasanabrasivetohelpbreakdownherbs).Inabowl,combineoliveoil,herbmixture,andmustards.

Warmanoven-safefryingpanonmedium-highheat.Cooklambrackmeat-sidedownfor3minutes,untilbrowned.Turnrackoverandsearbottomfor2minutes.Smearherbglazeovermeatandbakeinfryingpanfor10minutes,oruntilinternaltemperatureofmeatreaches125°F(52°C).Coverwithfoilandsetasidefor10minutes.Slicebetweenbonestomakechops.

GrilledLambwithHerbsCookingabone-inlegoflambtoadesirableanduniformdonenessisverydifficult,butgrillingadebonedlegisabreeze,andfarmoresurfaceareacomesincontactwiththeherbsandseasoning.Ifyouliketheflavorful,crunchyedgesongrilledmeat,youaregoingtolovethislamb.ServewithChimichurri(p.29)andGrilledAutumn

Vegetables(p.159).

MAKES6SERVINGS

1legoflamb,debonedandflattenedforgrilling1tbspfreshthymeleaves

1tbspfreshrosemaryleaves¼cup(60mL)choppedchives6garliccloves,smashed

4tbspoliveoil½tspgroundblackpepper

1tspcoarseseasalt28-in(20-cm)sprigsrosemary

Cheftrick:Toensuremeatisproperlycooked,alwayscheckinternaltemperatureratherthancookingtime.

Placelambinalargeglassorceramicbakingdish.Inabowl,combinethyme,

rosemary,chives,garlic,oliveoil,pepper,andsaltandmashtobruiseherbsanddrawoutflavorfuloils.Rubherbmixtureonlamb.Coverwithbeeswaxwraporclingfilmandmarinateforatleast2hours.

Preheatbarbecuetohigh.Placerosemarysprigsongrillandplacelambonrosemary.Grillforabout6minutes.Turnlambandgrillforanother5minutes.Reduceheattolowandgrilluntilinternaltemperatureofmeatreaches130°F(55°C).Removelambfromgrill,placeonaplate,andcoverwithfoil.Letsitfor10minutes,thensliceoffpiecesabout½-in(1-cm)thickacrossgrainofmeat.

FrenchLentilStewwithLambSausagesLentilsareadecidedlyunsexyingredient,buttheyareoneofthehealthiestfoodsyoucaneatandasustainablesourceofprotein.

Needmorefiber?Controllingcholesterol?Lentilsareyourfriend.Ifyouarecuttingbackonmeat,leaveoutthesausage.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1½cups(375mL)Puylentils2cups(500mL)water¼cup(60mL)extravirginoliveoil1lb(500g)lambsausages¾cup(185mL)dicedredonions1cup(250mL)dicedcarrots½cup(125mL)dicedcelery2garliccloves,minced2tbspfreshrosemaryleaves

1tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper1cup(250mL)low-sodiumchickenstock1cup(250mL)FreshSofrito(p.82)

Toavoidtougheningtheskinofdriedlegumes,cooklentils,chickpeas,andbeansuntiltenderbeforeseasoningwithsalt.

PuyorFrenchgreenlentilsareshapedlikesmall,blackflyingsaucersandtakefreshherbflavorslikeachamp.

Washlentilsincoldwater,rinsing3or4times,toremovesurfacestarch.Inasaucepanonhighheat,bringlentilstoaboilinwater,thenreduceheattolowandsimmeruncoveredforabout30minutes,oruntiltender.Addmorewaterifneeded.Drainandsetaside.

InalargepotorDutchovenonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addsausagesandcookuntilbrownedonallsides,about8–10minutes.Removesausagesfrompan,cutinto¼-in(6-mm)slices,andsetaside.Addonions,carrots,celery,garlic,rosemary,salt,andpepperandsautéforabout5minutes,untiltender.Addcookedlentilsandstock.Returnsausagestopotandsimmergentlytoreduceliquid.Tasteandseasonwithsalt,ifdesired.(Sometimessausageswillgiveupenoughsaltandsometimesnot.)ServeinflatbowlstoppedwithFreshSofrito.

Darcy’sNewWorldBologneseSauceWeusethistosaucepenneortossitwithlinguinithatwillbebakedunderaheapofgratedPecorinocheese.Italsomakesafinemeatsauceforlasagna.Thegratedvegetables,freshherbs,andpungent

spicesmeldtoformarobustandverynutritioussauce.

MAKES6SERVINGS

1tbspextravirginoliveoil1lb(500g)groundbeef2hotItaliansausages,casingsremoved,or½lb(250g)choppedItalianSausageMeatballs(p.50)

2garliccloves,minced1mediumonion,minced1carrot,finelygrated6largefreshbuttonmushrooms,thinlysliced1mediumzucchini,coarselygrated1tbspkoshersalt2tbspfreshoregano1tbspdriedmarjoram2tbspfreshbasilleaves

2tspfreshthymeleaves½tspgroundblackpepper½tspcrackedredchiliflakes1tbspchoppedfreshrosemaryleaves3cups(750mL)tomatosauce¼cup(60mL)tomatopaste2cups(500mL)low-sodiumbeefstock

Whensubstitutingdriedherbsforfresh,cuttheamountbyabouttwo-thirds.

Driedherbsarefarstrongerthanfresh.

Inalargepotonmedium,heatoliveoil.Cookgroundbeefandsausagemeat,breakingupmeatwithawoodenspoonuntilbrowned,about5minutes.Addgarlicandonionsandcookuntiltranslucent.Addcarrots,mushrooms,andzucchini,andcookuntilsoft.

Addsalt,oregano,marjoram,basil,thyme,pepper,chiliflakes,androsemaryandcookfor2minutes.Stirintomatosauce,paste,andstock,reduceheattolow,andsimmer,uncovered,for1–3hours.Tasteandseasonwithmoresalt,ifdesired.

SpicyMeatballsinGreekTomatoSauceItissafetosaythatIhavenevermetameatballthatIdidn’tlike,butkeftedesaremeatballsthatIlikeagreatdeal.ThesespicylittlenumbersareservedinGreeceassnacks,appetizers,andasamaincourseintomatosauce.Thesauceandthemeatballshaveahintofsubtleexoticspice,butnotenoughthatyoucantellexactlywhichspicesareused.Onlyyouwillknow.Feelfreetosubstitutebeefforsomeorallofthelamb.They’llbejustasauthentic.Serveonabed

ofriceornoodles,toppedwithcrumbledfetacheese.

MAKES4–6SERVINGSORAPARTYPLATTER

SPICYMEATBALLS:2eggs,lightlybeaten¼cup(60mL)milk2lb(1kg)groundlamb

2tbspchoppedfreshoregano4tbspchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley2cups(500mL)breadcrumbs1tspgroundblackpepper

1tbspkoshersalt¼tspgroundcinnamon¼tspgroundnutmeg¼tspgroundallspice¾cup(185mL)mincedleeks,whitepartonly3garliccloves,minced½cup(125mL)extravirginoliveoil

GREEKTOMATOSAUCE:2tbspextravirginoliveoil

1garlicclove,chopped3cups(750mL)strainedcannedtomatoes¼tspgroundcinnamon¼tspgroundnutmeg¼tspgroundallspiceseasalt,totastehoney,totaste½cup(125mL)crumbledfetacheese

SPICYMEATBALLS:Inabowl,whiskeggsandmilktogetherandsetaside.Inalargemixingbowl,breakupgroundlambandmixinoregano,parsley,breadcrumbs,pepper,salt,cinnamon,nutmeg,allspice,leeks,andgarlic.Addeggmixtureandkneadlightlytocombine.Rollintogolf-ball-sizedmeatballs.

Inafryingpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Frymeatballsinbatches—don’tcrowdthepan;leaveabout1in(2.5cm)betweenthem.Turnoccasionallytobrownevenlyandcookabout6minutes,untilfirmtothetouch.

GREEKTOMATOSAUCE:Inalargesaucepanonmedium-low,heatoliveoil.Sautégarlicuntilfragrant,about1minute,stirringregularly.Addtomatoes,cinnamon,nutmeg,andallspiceandsimmerfor30minutes.Tasteandseasonwithsaltandhoney,ifdesired.(Somecannedtomatoesarealreadysaltedandsweetened.)Addmeatballstosauceandsimmerfor20minutes.Topwithfetacheese.

Beef&SpinachCabbageRollsThestandardfillingforcabbagerollsisgroundbeefandleftoverrice.MytalentedwifeaddedchoppedspinachthatIcollectedfromthegreenhouseandfreshgroundpepperforanice,spicyfinish.

Feelfreetousechardleavesorarugulainstead.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

1largeheadgreenorsavoycabbage1lb(500g)leangroundbeef1cup(250mL)cookedrice1cup(250mL)finelychoppedfreshspinach1mediumonion,puréed4garliccloves,minced1tspkoshersalt

1tspblackpepper128-oz(796-mL)tindicedtomatoes115-oz(398-mL)tintomatosauce¼tspcayenne1tbspchoppedfreshoregano

1tbspchoppedfreshbasil

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Withasharp,thin-bladedknife,removecorefromcabbage.Inalargepotonhighheat,bring6qt/Lwatertoaboilandaddcabbage,core-sideup.Usetongstoremoveouterleaveswithouttearingthemastheycomeloose.Withaknife,

removetoughpartofstalkfromeachcabbageleaf.Setasidelargest,intactleavesforrolls.

Inalargebowl,combinegroundbeef,rice,spinach,onions,garlic,salt,andpepper.Inaseparatebowl,combinetomatoesandsauce.Stirincayenne,oregano,andbasil.

Linearoasterwith1layerofremainingcabbageleavesand1cup(250mL)tomatomixture.

Withstalkendofcabbageleafclosesttoyou,placeabout¼–⅓cup(60–80mL)meatfillingonleaf.Rollleafoverfillingonce,thenfoldinsidestowardeachotherandcontinuetorollupleaf,awayfromyou.Placerollsinrowsinroasterandcoverwithremainingtomatomixture.Placeremainingcabbageleavesinalayerovertopandcoverentirepanwithalidorfoil.Bakefor90minutes.

BakedZucchiniRatatouilleMyratatouillerecipedoesnotincludeeggplantbecausemywifedoesn’tlikeit,andchancesaregoodyouaren’tgrowingit.You

won’tmissit.ThisismyriffontheFrenchclassic,onethatshoulddovetailverynicelywithwhatyourgardenprovidesinlatesummerandearlyfall.Ifyoudon’thavepattypansquash,yellowzucchiniis

anicesubstitute.

MAKES6SERVINGS

2tbspoliveoil,divided2cups(500mL)dicedgreenzucchini2cups(500mL)dicedyellowpattypansquash1garlicclove,minced1mediumonion,diced1cup(250mL)mincedtomatoes½cupdicedgreenbellpeppers½cup(125mL)peasordicedgreenbeans2tbsptomatopaste

1tspseasalt½tspgroundblackpepper½tspfreshthymeleaves1tbspchoppedfreshbasilleaves1½cups(375mL)gratedmozzarellacheese

Inmyruralneighborhood,thejokeisthattheonlytimepeoplelocktheircardoorsisinSeptember;walkawayfromanunlockedcar,andyouwillcomebacktofindalargezucchiniinside.Onlyit’snotajokeorsomeurbanlegend.Ido

thistomyneighborsatleastweeklyduringzucchiniseason.

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Inalargeflat-bottomedpanonhigh,heat1tbspoliveoil.Sautézucchiniandsquashwhilestirringgentlyuntilbrownedgesappear,about1minute.Transfermixturetoa10-in(25-cm)roundbakingdish.Returnpantostove,lowerheattomedium,andaddremainderofoliveoil,garlic,onions,tomatoes,bellpeppers,andgreenbeans.Sautéuntilsoftened,about3minutes.Addtomatopaste,salt,pepper,thyme,andbasilandcontinuetocookuntilathicksauceforms.Poursauceoverzucchinimixture.Sprinklecheeseevenlyoverdish.Bakeonmiddlerackofovenfor15minutes.Turnbroilertohighuntilcheeseturnsagoldenbrown,about1minute—watchitclosely;itwillburnquickly.

AngryPennewithSpicyArrabiataSauceThisRoman-stylesaucewithgarlicandhotpeppersiscalled

arrabiata,meaning“angry.”Atastysauceisthatquiterustic,ittakesonlyabouttwentyminutestoprepare.

MAKES4SERVINGS;SAUCEMAKES2CUPS(500ML)

SAUCE:

3tbspoliveoil4garliccloves,chopped½cup(125mL)mincedonions2driedhotchilies,crumbled2lb(1kg)plumtomatoes,chopped¼cup(60mL)redwine

1tspkoshersalt

ANGRYPENNE:

1lb(500g)driedpenne

2tbspkoshersalt2cups(500mL)ArrabiataSauce¼cup(60mL)choppedflat-leafparsley

Whenfreshtomatoesaren’tavailable,substitute128-oz(796-mL)candicedorstewedtomatoes.Ifyouusecannedwholetomatoes,givethemaroughchopor

squeezethemthroughyourfingers.

SAUCE:Inalargesaucepanonmedium-low,heatoliveoil.Sautégarlic,onions,andchiliesabout3minutes,untilonionssoften.Addtomatoes,stirinwine,andincreasetemperaturetomedium.Cookatafastsimmerfor10minutes.Seasonwithsalt,ifdesired.Youcanrunsomeorallofthesaucethroughafoodprocessororuseanimmersionblender.

ANGRYPENNE:Inalargepotonhighheat,bring6qt/Lwatertoaboil.Addpenneandsaltandcooktodesiredtenderness.DrainandtosswithhotArrabiataSauce.Sprinkleeachservingwithparsley.

RoastedCauliflowerThisdishisachameleon,ascomfortablewhenpairedwithIndian

flavorsaswithMediterranean.Unfussyandappetizing.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1cauliflowerhead½tspkoshersalt½tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcumin1tspcuminseeds

4tbspoliveoil

Seedsavers:Wholecorianderandcuminseedstakeonarichsmokinesswhentoastedbeforecooking.Lightlytoastwholespicesinanon-stickfryingpanuntil

fragrantbeforegrinding.

Preheatovento425°F(220°C).

Cutcauliflowerintoabout12piecesandplaceinalargemixingbowl.Sprinklewithsalt,coriander,cumin,andcuminseeds.Drizzlewitholiveoilandtosstocoat.

Placeinalargeceramicbakingdishandbakefor40minutes,untiledgesarebrownandcauliflowerisforktender.

GreenBeanswithPepitasThisisagreatwaytojazzupgreenbeansandaperfectsideto

grilledmeats.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

1tbspoliveoil½cup(125mL)pepitas(shelledpumpkinseeds)1garlicclove,thinlysliced

1tbspchoppedfreshrosemary½tspkoshersalt1lb(500g)greenbeans,trimmed

Inanon-stickfryingpanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautépepitasfor2minutes.Addgarlic,rosemary,andsaltandsautéuntilfragrant.

Inalargepotofboilingwater,blanchgreenbeansuntiltenderbutfirm,about2minutes.Drainandtosswithpepitamixture.

GrilledAutumnVegetablesGrillingenhancesthesweetnessofvegetablesbycaramelizingnaturalsugarsandmakingthemtastemoreintenselylike

themselves.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

2tbspoliveoil½tspseasalt¼tspgroundblackpepperzestof1lemon

1tbsplemonjuice8babycarrots,halvedlengthwise1cup(250mL)greenbeans,trimmed1smallzucchini,halvedandquartered2tbspchoppedfreshchivesordill

Inalarge,flatdish,combineoliveoil,salt,pepper,andlemonzestandjuicetomakeamarinade.

Inalargepotofboilingwater,blanchcarrotsfor3minutesandsetaside.Blanchgreenbeansfor1minuteandsetaside.Tosscarrots,beans,andzucchiniinmarinadeandsetasidefor30minutes.

Preheatbarbecuetohigh.Positionvegetablesacrossthegrillsothattheydon’tfallthrough.Grilluntilgrill-marksandcaramelizingareevident,about2–3minutes.Servesprinkledwithchoppedchivesordill.

Bacon&MushroomKaleThisisaquickwaytobrightenuphumbleleafygreens.Toremovethestalkfromthekale,grabthebottomofthestalkwithyourlefthandandrunthethumbandforefingerofyourrighthandwhere

theleafisattachedfirmlyupthestalkfromthebottom.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

1tbspoliveoil3slicesbacon,chopped12freshcreminimushrooms,sliced12kaleleaves(4cups/1Lchopped)¼tspkoshersalt¼cup(60mL)low-sodiumchickenorvegetablestock

Inalargesaucepanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addbaconandsautéuntilcrisp.Removebaconfrompanandsetaside.Addmushrooms.Don’tstiruntiltheybegintobrown,about2minutes.

Stirinkaleleaves,salt,andstock,turningleavesovertowilt.Simmerfor5minutes.Topwithbacon.

DuckFatRosemaryPotatoesThisisagreatwaytouseearlypotatoes(beforetheygettoobig)orundersizedspudsattheendofseason.Thisrecipeincludesanoldtricktocreatearough,crunchycrust,whichmyyoungestson

declaredthe“bestthingever.”

MAKES4SERVINGS

2lb(1kg)YukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinlargechunks1½tbspkoshersalt¼cup(60mL)duckfat(orcanolaoil)6-in(15-cm)sprigfreshrosemary¼tspfineseasalt¼tspfreshgroundblackpepper2tbspchoppedfreshrosemaryleaves

Lookforduckfatatgourmetfoodstores,goodbutchershops,andhigh-endgrocers.Thereisnosubstitute.

Don’tpanicattheamountofsaltinthewater;ithastoseasonalotofpotatoes,andmostofitwillgodownthedrainlater.

Preheatovento425°F(220°C).

Inamediumsaucepanonhighheat,bringpotatoes,3cups(750mL)water,andsalttoaboil.Simmeruntilforktenderonoutsidebutfirminside,about5–10minutesdependingonthesizeofyourpotatoes.Drainpotatoes,coverwithalidandplacepanoncoldstoveburnerorotherflat,unheatedsurface.Holdlidandhandlefirmlyandshakepotvigorouslyfor5seconds,untiloutsidesofpotatoes

lookroughandfluffy.Setpotatoesaside,uncovered.

Placeametalroastingpaninovenfor5minutestopreheat.Addduckfatandletitwarmfor5minutes.Usingtongs,swishrosemarysprigthroughoil,thenaddpotatoes,turningtocoatthemwithfat.Bakefor25minutes.Turnpotatoesforevenbrowning,thenroastforanother20minutes,untilgoldenbrownandcrunchy.Sprinklewithsaltandpepper.Transfertoaservingdishandgarnishwithrosemaryleaves.

RoastedGarlicMashedPotatoesWarm,rustic,anddeeplyflavorful,thesemashedpotatoesarereasonenoughtogrowgarlic.ServegarnishedwithParmesan

Fricos(p.165).

MAKES4SERVINGS

6cups(1.5L)dicedYukonGoldpotatoes2tspkoshersalt,divided¼tspwhitepepper¼cup(60mL)unsaltedbutter½cup(125mL)cream2roastedgarlicbulbs(p.141)

Inasaucepanonhighheat,bringpotatoesand1tspsalttoaboilin2cups(500mL)coldwater.Reduceheatandcookatahighsimmeruntilknifetender,about5–7minutes.Drainandreturnpotatoestopot.

Addpepper,butter,cream,andremainderofsalt.Squeezegarlicbulbstopressoutfleshandaddtopotatoes.Mashpotatoesjustuntilsmooth.

CheddarDillBiscuitsMylatefatherFrankShorewasastraditionalahighschoolteacherasyou’devermeet,butinsomewaysalittleaheadofhistime.Atamomentinhistorywhenhardlyanyoneconsideredteachingboysto

cook,hedevelopedacoursecalledBachelorSurvivalandencouragedasteadystreamofboys—manyofthemcoveredinwood

chipsandenginegrime—toexittheshopbuildingandlearntocook.Thisismyriffononeofhiscorelessons,anditincludesmylabor-savingtrickoffreezingthengratingthebutter.Fluffyinsideandcrunchyoutside,thisbiscuitisadeliciousvehicleforbutter,

cheese,orgravy.

MAKES8BISCUITS

¼cup(60mL)unsaltedbutter2cups(500mL)all-purposeflour2½tspbakingpowder½tspbakingsoda½tspkoshersalt½cup(125mL)gratedcheddarcheese¼cup(60mL)choppedfreshdillfronds¾cup+1tbsp(200mL)buttermilk1egg,beaten

Placebutterandgraterinfreezerfor1hour.

Preheatovento450°F(230°C).

Inabowl,whiskflour,bakingpowderandsoda,salt,cheese,anddill.Removebutterfromfreezerandcoarselygrateoverflourmixture.Addbuttermilkandstiringentlywithaforkuntiladoughforms.Kneaddoughgentlywithyour

handsuntilitjustformsaball,nomorethan30seconds.

Sprinkleflouronworksurfaceandturnoutdough.Rollto¾-in(2-cm)thicknessinasfewstrokesaspossible.Cutinto3-in(8-cm)roundswithawaterglassorcookiecutter.Re-formremainingdough,roll,andcut1or2morerounds.

Placeroundsonacookiesheetandletstandfor10minutes.

Inasmallbowl,whiskeggandbrushovertopsofbiscuits.Placecookiesheetonmiddlerackofovenandbakefor13minutes,untilgoldenbrown,slightlyshiny,andspringytothetouch.

FrankShore’sDumplingsHere’saclassicfromthepagesofmyfather’sarsenaloffarmhouserecipes.ThesefluffydelightsaremeanttosteamontopofaheartystewsuchChickenFricassee(p.39).Usewhatevergardenherbsare

inabundance.

MAKESENOUGHFOR4SERVINGS(12DUMPLINGS)

1cup(250mL)all-purposeflour

2tspbakingpowder½tspkoshersalt1tbspchoppedfreshparsley1tbspchoppedfreshchives

1eggabout⅓cup(80mL)milk

Don’tsubmergeorboilthedumplings.

Whilestew,fricassee,orsoupissimmeringinalarge,wide-basedpot:Inalargebowl,whiskflour,bakingpowder,andsalt.Stirinparsleyandchives.Breakeggintoameasuringcupandtopupto½cup(125mL)linewithmilk.

Whiskwetingredientstocombinewellandstirintodryingredientsandherbs.Theresultshouldbethickerthanabatter,butlooserthandough.Addalittlemilkifdoughdoesn’tooze.

Usingatablespoon,quicklydropadozendumplingsontopofsimmeringstew.

Leave1in(2.5cm)betweendumplingssotheycanexpand.Coverpotwithatight-fittinglidandsteamdumplingsfor10minutes.Serveimmediately.

ParmesanFricosAParmesanfricoispossiblythebesttastingthingyouwillevereat.Thinkaged-cheesecookie.Standoneofthesecrispydelightsinthemashedpotatoeswhenyoubuildplatesfordinnerguests.Result:

Youareagenius.

MAKES6SERVINGS

1cup(250mL)finelygratedParmesancheese¼tspgroundblackpepper

Preheatovento500°F(260°C).

Placeasheetofparchmentpaperonacookiesheet.Place2tbspcheeseinacookie-sizedcircleabout¼-in(6-mm)thick.Leaveitfluffy,notpresseddown.Sprinklelightlywithpepper.

Bakefor4–6minutesuntiltheyturnagoldenbrownatedges.Donottakeyoureyesoffthemuntiltheyaredone:they’llgofromgoldentoincineratedinaheartbeat.Cooloncookiesheetfor5minutes.

Apple-PearStreuselTheperfectautumndessert,thisstreusel-toppedconfectionis

actuallyeasierthanpie.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

FILLING:2lb(1kg)Boscpears2lb(1kg)greenapples2tspgratedorangezest2tbsporangejuice

1tbsplemonjuice½cup(125mL)whitesugar2tbspcornstarch

1tspgroundcinnamon¼tspgroundnutmeg

TOPPING:1½cups(375mL)flour¾cup(185mL)whitesugar¾cup(185mL)brownsugar1cup(250mL)rolledoats1cup(250mL)saltedbutter

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Peel,core,andcutpearsandapplesinto¼-in(6-mm)thickslices.Inalargebowl,combinepears,apples,zest,orangeandlemonjuice,sugar,cornstarch,

cinnamon,andnutmeg.Pourintoa9×12-in(23×30.5-cm)bakingdish.

Inbowlofastandmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,combineflour,whiteandbrownsugar,oats,andbutter.Mixonlowfor1minute,untilmixtureformslargeclumps.Sprinkleevenlyoverfruit.Bakefor1hour,untiltopisbrownedandfillingbubbling.

WinterEnjoytheBounty

Whentherainandsnowfinallyforcemeindoorsforthewinter,Itaketheextratimetoreflectonthegrowingseason—itssuccessesandfailures.Theyearsofexperimentationhavetaughtmesomeharshlessons,buteachlessonlearnedhasrewardedmewithgreaterabundanceandincreasedmyfamily’sself-reliance.

Twofreezersloadedwiththegarden’sharvest—wholetomatoes,choppedrhubarb,gratedzucchini,blanchedgreenbeans—helptakethestingoutoftheweeklygrocerybill.Whentheproduceatthemarketbeginstolookshabbyduetoharshwinterweatheranddaysspentintransitfromwarmerclimes,apantryfullofcrimsonpickledbeetsandbrightgreendillsisreassuring.Vegetablesthatarepickedandpreservedatthepeakofripenessretainmoreoftheirnutritionalvaluethanso-calledfreshproducethat’sspentdaysinthebackofatruck.

Foodindustryexpertsandeconomicthink-tanksinsistthatlong-distancetravelcontributesonlyatinyfractiontothecarbonfootprintoffruitsandvegetablesgrownabroad,especiallywhenforeignfarmerscangrowmoreefficiently.Maybeso.Butthevitaminandantioxidantcontentoffreshlypickedvegetablesbeginstodeclinewithinhoursanddropsbyfortytoninetypercentoverthreedays.Foodgrownclosertohomeislikelytobemuchfresherandbetterforyou.Ifitisn’tinyourgarden,checkthelocalfarmer’smarket.

ACASEFORTHEBACKYARDGREENHOUSEIdecidedtobuyagreenhousewhethertheeconomicsmadesenseornot.Somethingaboutataxreturncheckmakesmeirrational.Noapparatuswillextendthegrowingseasonmorereliablythanagreenhouse,andfiveyearsintomyexperiment,Iamnowinapositiontojustifytheexpense.

Agreenhousekit,completewithdouble-glazedwalls,adoor,andventswillcostyouanywherefrom$600to$6,000,dependingonqualityofbuild,size,and

whetheryouoptforpolycarbonateorglasswalls.Ispentabout$2,000forapoly-walledstructurewith64sq.ft(5.9sq.m)ofinteriorspaceandaheat-responsivevent.Iinvestedanother$200inpre-castconcretetilesforthefloor.

SowhatdidIgain?Igrowlettuceandparsleyrightthroughthewinter,addingatleastfourmonthstothegrowingseason.Igrowmostofmyownseedlingsfortransplantingtothegardeninspring.Igrowcherrytomatoes,hotpeppers,andbasilthroughthesummer.Iseedpotswithleftoverkale,beet,andarugulaseedsinthefallandharvestbabygreensuntilChristmas.

Theannualvalueofproducefrommygreenhouseisatleast$500ayear.Thebasilaloneisworth$200whenyouconsiderthepriceofpestoatthegrocerystore.MywifeandImakehugebatchesofBasilPesto(p.76)inAugustandfreezetwentytothirtysmallcontainerstousethroughthecoolermonths.

Organicseedlingscancostthreetofivedollarseachatthenursery,butgrowingthemathomecostsnomorethantwenty-fivecents,includingthecostofpottingsoil.Cherrytomatoescancostsixdollarsforasmallbasketatthegrocerystore,butIcanpicktwotothreepintsaweekfromthegreenhouse

duringthesummer.Seehowitaddsup?

GROWSPROUTSONYOURKITCHENCOUNTERYoudon’tneedagardenorevenabalconytogrowcrispfreshbeanandalfalfasprouts.A1qt/LMasonjar,asealingring,andasmallsquareofcheeseclothisalltheequipmentyouneed.Youwon’tevengetyourhandsdirty—nosoilrequired.

Buyorganicbeansandalfalfaseedsforsproutingatahealthfoodstore.Radishseedandlentilsaddedtothemixmakeforaninterestingsproutblendforsalads.Atroomtemperature,theusualsproutingtimeisaboutfourtosixdays.Oncetheseedssproutandgrowtotheappropriatesize,rinsethemandkeeprefrigerated.

Startanewjarofsproutseveryweekendforasupplyofsproutsrightthroughthewinter.

1. Measure¼cup(60mL)beansorseedmixintojar.2. Cutapieceofcheeseclothabout6sq.in(38sq.cm)andcoverthejaropening.Screwasealingringovercheeseclothtoholditinplace.

3. Filljarwithfresh,coldwaterandletstandfortwelvehours.4. Drainandrefilljarwithwatertorinseseedsandbeans.Drainandlayjaronitsside,outofdirectsunlight.Coverwithateatoweltoblocklight.

5. Refilljarwithcoldfreshwateranddraineverytwelvehours.Keepjarcoveredbetweenrinses.

Makes2–4cups(500mL–1L)sprouts.

Placesproutedalfalfainabrightlocationforonedaytoturntheleavesgreen,thenrefrigerateuntilneeded.

HABITSOFHEALTHYPEOPLEBewaryofanyheadlinethatpromisesamagicbulletsolutiontoincreasedvigor,weightloss,orlongerlife.Evenproperlydesignedstudiesthatsuggestfishoilcanpreventheartattacksshouldbeviewedwithcaution.Whenyoulookcloselyattheevidence,you’llfindthateatingfishhelps;fishoilsupplementsdonot.

Sciencelooksatbiologicalprocessessuchasenergymetabolismthroughatinykeyhole,isolatingeachmovingpartinalargeandverycomplexmachine.Scientistsalsotendtostudytheseprocessesinanimalmodels,whichhelpstoisolatespecificeffectsinmice.Theresultsusuallyhavelittletodowithhowhumanbeingslivetheirlives.

Promotersofdietproductsseizeontheseresultsandmanipulateanddistortthemtosellsupplementsofdubiousvalue.Mostofthewell-knowndietsupplementsaresimplyfruitextractsorinexpensivedietaryfiberpackagedincapsulesandsoldfor100timestheirwholesaleprice.

Thescientifictruthaboutlonglifeandbetterhealthisdecidedlymundane.Vitaminsandsupplementsincapsulesorpillsconferlittleornobenefittohealthypeople.Dozensofstudiesinvolvingtensofthousandsofpeopleconfirmthatsimplefact.Ifscientistsusingrazor-sharpstatisticaltoolsandcarefullycontrolledexperimentscan’tdetectanyhealtheffectsinpeoplewhoconsumetheseproducts,itprobablyisn’tthere.Supplementscanbeusefultotreatadeficiencyidentifiedbyyourdoctor,butthey’renotmuchhelpotherwise.

However,ahandfulofcommunitiesscatteredacrosstheglobemayprovidesomecluesinthesearchforalonger,healthierlife.Theworldishometofivesmallgroupsofpeoplewholivefarlongerthantherestofus.Peopleintheseso-calledBlueZonesarefarmorelikelytoliveintotheirninetiesandsomehavetentimestheusualproportionofcentenarians.So,whatmakesthelifestylespecialinmountainousSardinia,isolatedJapaneseandGreekislands,CostaRicanvillages,andLomaLinda,California?

BlueZoneshavethreethingsincommon.Allaresmall,relativelyisolated,family-oriented,andsociallytight-knit.Thepeopleareactive,walkingalmosteverywhere,andgrowatleastsomeoftheirownfood.AndwiththeexceptionofSardinia,theyeatamostlyplant-baseddiet,richinleafygreensandlegumes,suchaslentilsandbeans.Sardinianswhocoveralotofsteepterrainonfooteachdayappeartoextendtheirlivesbyyears.

Infact,sciencetendstosupportthevalueofsocialengagement,dailyphysicalactivity,andadietrichinfiber,fruit,vegetables,nuts,andhealthyfats.Thekeytolongerlifeisprobablyrightoutsideyourwindow—inthegardenora

shortwalkawayatyourlocalfarmer’smarket.

EATPLANT-BASEDMEALSANDLIKEITIfvegetarianmealsleaveyoufeelingalittlebitemptyinside,youarenotalone.Likemanypeople,Ihavedabbledinvegetarianism,originallyoutofpovertyandlaterformyhealth.Somepeopleeliminatemeatfromtheirdietsbecausetheyfeelthatit’sunethicaltokillanimalsforfood.Butforme,themostcompellingreasontoeatlessmeatistheenvironmentalimpactofcommercialmeatproduction.Theamountofarablelandrequiredtoproduceonelb(500g)ofanimalproteinisroughlyfivetimesthatneededtogrowcorn.Soybeansaretwentytimesmoreefficientthancattleatcreatingqualityproteinforhumanconsumption.Thequantityofwaterrequiredtoproducebeefmaybeupto100timestheamountrequiredtoproducegrainsuchaswheat.

Astheworld’spopulationcontinuestogrow,theamountoffertilizerthatcanbeusedtoincreasefoodproductionisreachingitsupperlimit.Landandwaterarefiniteresources.Youdon’thavetobearocketscientisttounderstandthatwemustinevitablyturntoamoreplant-baseddiet.Humanbeingsandlivestockarebecomingincreasinglyincompatible.Thepriceofmeatinthefuturewillsurelyreflectthis,curtailingconsumption.Inthemeantime,youcanhelppreservetheearth’slimitedresourcesbyadoptingadietwithalighterfootprint.

Meatsubstitutesareadouble-edgedsword:Ononehand,commerciallymadevegetariancutlets,skewers,andpattiesdelivertheproteinyouareaccustomedtoandprovidemeat-liketexture.Buttheyareoftenhighinsodiumandusealotofprocessedingredients.Ithinkfoodsshouldbewhattheyareandnotpretendtobewhattheyarenot.Butthemarketforsoy-basedmeatsubstituteshasquadrupledinthepastfifteenyears,sotheymustbeappealingtoalotofpeople.

ByfarthemostcommoncomplaintIhearfrompeople,especiallymen,whoattemptsemi-vegetarianeatingispersistenthunger.Ifyouwanttoreduceyourmeatconsumption,youdon’thavetostarveyourself.Startwithonemeatlessmealaweek,andworkyourwayupuntilyoufindyourcomfortzone.Fruitandoatmealforbreakfastisaneasywaytostart.LeavingmeatoutofthelunchIbringtotheofficeworkswellforme,too.Atdinner,IsimplycutbackontheamountofmeatonmyplateandmakesurethatIhaveagoodhigh-proteindishbasedonchickpeas,lentils,orbeanstopickuptheslack.

Hereareafewtipstohelpyouenjoymoreplant-basedmeals.Don’tforgetprotein:MeatlessMondayisdoomedtofailifyoudon’tfeel

fullafterdinner.Simplyremovingmeatfromyourstir-fryisarecipefordisaster.Tryreplacingchickenwithcashews.Addingnutsandseeds,wholegrains,andlegumesatmealtimepromoteslong-lastingfullness.

Eatfat:Adinnerwithoutmeatoftenresultsinanoverallreductioninfats.Butgoodfatsareanessentialnutrientthatpromotessatiety.Ifyouavoidfatandalsoreducethemeatproteininyourmeals,youmaysoonfindyourselfsittinginfrontofadoublecheeseburgerwithnorecollectionofhavingboughtit.Oilyfish,walnutsandcashews,andqualitycookingfatssuchasoliveoilwillkeepyourstomachfromrumbling,andtheywillalsoensurethatyougetsufficientquantitiesofheart-healthyomega-3fattyacidsandfat-solublevitamins.

Adoptanethniccuisine:Ifyourplanistogowithoutmeatonedayaweek,plananAsianmeal.Manyoftheworld’soldestfoodtraditionsarebasedonnon-meatproteinssuchassoyandlegumes.DishesfromIndiaandTurkeyrelyheavilyonlentils,beans,andchickpeas.PlanamealaroundRedLentilDal(p.58),ChickpeaSaladwithCilantroPesto(p.34)orMalaiKofta(p.96).

Wholegrainsareyourfriend:Wholegrainsarehigherinfiberandproteinthanrefinedgrainsandflours.Theywillkeepyoufulllongerthansimplecarbohydratessuchaspotatoesandwhiteflourpasta.BulguristhecrackeddurumwheatattheheartofHerbedTabbouleh(p.35).Kamutisawholeberrythat’sanancientrelativeofwheat.TryitinPharoahSalad(p.84).

EATLESSBUTBETTERMEATWhenyoudobuymeat,youcanhelpyourselfandtheplanetbychoosingpasture-raisedchickenandgrass-fedbeef.Mostorganiccertificationsrequirefarmerstoensurethattheiranimalsarehumanelytreatedandfedanaturaldiet.Notonlyisthatthemoralthingtodo,it’sbetterforyoutoo.

Grass-fedbeefhasamorefavorableratio(forhumanhealth)ofomega-3toomega-6fattyacidsthanfactory-farmedbeef.Recentresearchhasfoundthatexcessiveomega-6consumptionmaybeassociatedwithinflammationofthecardiovascularsystemandthedigestivetract.Pasture-raisedchickentendstobelowerinfatoveralland,likegrass-fedbeef,muchhigherinheart-healthyomega-3.

Gettoknowagoodbutcherandaskforgrass-fedmeats.Afarmer’smarketisagreatplacetosourcepasture-raisedmeatsand,asabonus,thefarmerisrighttheretoansweryourquestionsabouthowtheanimalwasraisedandwhatitwasfed.

RoastedRedPepperHummusHerbedRicottaSpread

HomemadeChickenStockKaleChickpeaSoupMatzohBallSoup

CanadianCaldoVerdePeaSoupwithCarrots

Beer-BatteredFishSmokedSalmonChowderChicken&SausageGumboChickenallaCacciatore

TurkeyMeatballsStuffedSpaghettiSquash

OssoBucoMoroccanLambwithSquashHomemadeCanadianBaconHomemadePartyPizzas

VegetarianZucchiniLasagnaHomemadeRicottaCheese

Darcy’sDonkey-Kickin’Macaroni&CheeseHoppin’John

SmotheredGreenBeansGreenBeanMushroomBakeParmesanTurnipCroquettes

CollardGreenswithRoastedRedPepperSingaporeCurrySaucewithKale

NutFlourWafflesFragrantTurkeyBrineQuickTurkeyNeckStock

Thyme-OrangeCompoundButterFarmhouseStuffing

RoastTurkeyTurkeyGravy

BoxingDaySoup

RoastedRedPepperHummusHummus,thecreamydipbelovedintheMiddleEast,iseasilymadeinafoodprocessorwithchickpeas,tahini,oliveoil,andasqueezeoflemon.Unglamorousandunder-appreciated,thechickpeaisan

inexpensive,earth-friendlysourceofproteinandcarbohydratesandanextraordinarysourceofdietaryfiber.Ifyouliketodigdeepwhenyoudip—likeIdo—digintothishummuswithoutguilt.ServewithSuperSimplePitaBread(p.62),crackers,chips,andveggies.

MAKES2CUPS(500ML)

2cups(500mL)cookedchickpeas,or119-oz(540-mL)can,drainedandrinsed2tbsptahini

2garliccloves1roastedredpepper(p.45)1tspcoarseseasalt

3tbsplemonjuice¼cup(60mL)extravirginoliveoilKalamataolives,forgarnishextravirginoliveoil,forgarnish

Inafoodprocessor,blendchickpeas,tahini,garlic,pepper,salt,lemonjuice,andoliveoiluntilsmooth.Pourintoabowl,garnishwitholives,anddrizzlelightlywithmoreoliveoil.

HerbedRicottaSpreadDreamy,creamygoodness.Thisiswhybreadwasinvented.Serveit

onathinlyslicedtoastedbaguette.

MAKES1CUP(250ML)

1cup(250mL)HomemadeRicottaCheese(p.199)¼cup(60mL)choppedfreshchives

1tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper2tsplemonzest

2tbsplemonjuice2tbspunfilteredoliveoil,dividedchoppedfreshchives,forgarnish

Inabowl,combinecheese,chives,salt,pepper,lemonzestandjuice,and1tbspoliveoil.Mixwithaforkuntilcreamy.Letstandfor1hour.Transfertoservingdish,drizzlewithremainderofoliveoil,andgarnishwithchoppedchives.

HomemadeChickenStockRich,homemadestockcanelevateordinaryhomecookingtoextraordinarycooking.Stockcanmakesimplericeintoan

epiphany.Italsomakeshomemadesoupabreeze.Ifyouneedmorereasonstomakehomemadestock,howaboutweightmanagement,healthyjointsandbones,andsmoothskin?Drinkabowlofbrothbeforelunchandsupperandyouwilleatlessandstayfulllonger.

Homemadestockcontainsqualityaminoacids,calcium,phosphorus,magnesium,silicon,andallkindsofothertrace

mineralsandvitamins.Whynotextracteverybitofgoodnessfromyourfoodbeforeyouthrowitaway?That’ssustainableliving,baby.

MAKESABOUT8CUPS(2L)(YIELDMAYVARY)

3lb(1.5kg)chickenbacks,wingtips,andbones1onion,quartered2carrots1tbspcanolaoil

1tspkoshersalt¼tspgroundblackpepper

Preheatovento400°F(200°C).

Placechicken,onions,andcarrotsonalargebakingsheetwithaminimum½-in(1-cm)rim.Drizzlewithoilandsprinklewithsaltandpepper.Bakeuntilchickenisgoldenandfatisrenderedout,about1hour.

Inalargestockpotonmedium-lowheat,addchicken,onions,andcarrots(and

anyotherleftovervegetabletrimmings).Addcoldwateruntilcovered.Pour2cups(500mL)boilingwateronbakingsheetandletsitfor2minutes.Useawoodenspoontoloosenbaked-onchickenjuicesandpourresultingslurryintostockpot.

Slowlybringtemperatureofcookingliquidto190ºF(87ºC).Donotletitboil.Cookuncoveredfor3hours.Skimfatoffwithaladleorgravyseparator.Pourliquidthroughacolanderlinedwithcheeseclothanddiscardbonesandvegetables.Storestockinrefrigeratorforupto1weekorfreezeinplasticcontainersandthawasneeded.

ChickenStock

TIPSFOREASYSTOCKMAKINGSavevegetabletrimmings.Whenyoucook,keepthecarrotends,celerybase,onionendsandskin,andparsleystemsinabowlonthecounterandstoreintherefrigerator(orinaziplockbaginthefreezer)untilstockday.Heck,it’sactuallyeasierthanthrowingthemaway.

Cutthebackoutofeverychickenyoucook.Takeoffthewingtipstoo—nobodyeatsthemanyway.Ikeepalargeziplockbaginthefreezertostorechickenbacksandwings.

Whenyouhavesixtotenchickenbacksinthefreezer,it’sstockday.

THINGSTODOWITHHOMEMADESTOCKMakevegetablesoup:Simmerdicedvegetablesinstockandaddahandfulofsmallpasta,rice,orbarley.KaleChickpeaSoup(p.178)isbothnutritiousanddelicious.

Makebettergravy:Stockaddsbodyandflavortogravyandsauceswithoutaddingfat.

MakeRandy’sfavoritebreakfast:Garden-StyleWorWontonSoup(p.32).Addafewbroccoliflorets,somehomemadewontons(p.33),andsomeshreddedNapacabbagetochickenstockandyou’llhaveaservingofvegetablesinyoubeforeyouevenleavethehouse.

Drinkbrothbeforedinner:Brothisnutritiousandfat-free.Addafewblocksoftofu,misopaste,andchoppedgreenonions.DidImentionthatyouwilleatlessandstayfulllonger?

KaleChickpeaSoupThissoupissosimpleit’shardlyevenarecipe.Butweeatitatleastweeklyasalightlunch.It’shighinfiberandantioxidants,soul-satisfying,andtummywarming.Usecannedorcookedfrozen

chickpeastosavetime.Ifyouhaveatubofstocklyingaroundinthefreezer,thawitout.Ifyoumadeabitofstockfromthebonesoflastnight’schickendinner,usethat.Ifnot,uselow-sodiumchicken

stockfromthegrocerystore.

MAKES4SERVINGS

5cups(1.25L)Homemade(p.176)orlow-sodiumchickenstock¾cup(160mL)driedmacaroni1cup(250mL)choppedlacinatokale1cup(250mL)cookedchickpeasseasalt,totaste¼cup(60mL)choppedgreenonions

1tbspchoppedfreshparsley

Whencookingwithstockofunknownsodiumcontent,holdbackonaddingsaltuntilthecookingliquidhashadtimetointeractwiththeotheringredients.Taste

yourdishbeforeaddingsalttoanyrecipethatincludesstock.

Inalargesaucepanonmedium-highheat,bringstocktoaboil.Addmacaroni,boilfor2minutes,reduceheattolow,andsimmerfor5minutes.Addkaleandsimmerforanother5minutes.Addchickpeasandsimmeruntilheatedthrough.

Tasteandseasonwithsalttotaste,ifdesired.Serveinbowlsgarnishedwithgreenonionsandparsley.That’sit.You’redone.

MatzohBallSoupThisisJewishpenicillin,theonlyknowncurefortheManCold.MywifeDarcymakesitwhencoldseasonarrives.Itmaynotbebacked

byscience,butI’dswearthatthissoupcancureavirus.

MAKES4SERVINGS

MATZOHBALLS:½cup(125mL)matzohmeal2tbspchoppedfreshchives

2tbspchoppedfreshparsley¼tspkoshersalt⅛tspgroundblackpepper2eggs,lightlybeaten2tbspschmaltz(renderedchickenfat)ormeltedbutter

SOUP:2tbspschmaltzorbutter½cup(125mL)choppedgreenonions½cup(125mL)dicedonions½cup(125mL)dicedcarrots½cup(125mL)dicedcelery¼cup(60mL)drywhitewine6cups(1.5L)Homemadeorlow-sodiumchickenstock(p.176)seasalt,totaste2tbspchoppedfreshparsley

2tbspchoppedfreshchives

Inabowl,mixmatzohmeal,chives,parsley,salt,andpepper.Addeggsand2tbspschmaltztodryingredientsandmixuntilcombined,thenbegintoadd3–4tbspwater,1tbspatatime,justuntilathickbatterforms.Refrigeratebatterfor30minutes.

Meanwhile,inalargesaucepanonmedium,heat2tbspschmaltz.Addgreenonions,onions,carrots,andceleryandsautéuntilsoft,about5minutes.Addwineandcookuntilreducedbyhalf,about3minutes.Addstockandsimmerfor15minutes.Seasontotastewithsalt,ifdesiredInalargepotonhigh,bring2qt/Lwatertoasimmer.Add1tbspkoshersalt.Useaspoontoshapematzohdoughintoballsanddropintostock.Simmerfor30minutes.Addmatzohballstohotsoupandserve.Garnishwithparsleyandchives.

CanadianCaldoVerdeThereareasmanyrecipesforthisheartyPortuguesesoupastherearekitchensinPortugal.ThisCanadianversionusesYukonGold

potatoesandlacinatokale.

MAKES6SERVINGS

2tbspextravirginoliveoil1½scups(375mL)dicedonions5oz(150g)curedchorizosausages,diced

1tspsweetsmokedpaprika½tsphotsmokedpaprika4cups(1L)slicedYukonGoldpotatoes4cups(1L)Homemade(p.176)orlow-sodiumchickenstock1½tspkoshersalt,ortotaste2packedcups(500mL)choppedlacinatokale

Inalargepotonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addonionsandchorizoandcookuntilonionsaresoftandfatbeginstorenderfromchorizo,about10minutes.Addsweetandhotpaprikaandstirforabout1minute,thenaddpotatoesandstirtocoat.Addstockandbringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmerwithlidonfor5minutes.Tasteandseasonwithsalt.Addkaleandsimmerfor20minutes.Useapotatomashertobreakuppotatoes,justuntilsoupthickenstoyourliking.

PeaSoupwithCarrotsCarrotsaddsweetnessandfreshnesstothissplitpeasoup.Findthebiggestsmokedhamhockyoucan;thereallymeatyonesnotonlyaddalotflavor,butyoucanpickthemeatofftheboneslaterand

addittothesoup.

MAKES6–8SERVINGS

1hamhock

3tbspoliveoil1cup(250mL)dicedonions1cup(250mL)dicedcelery2cups(500mL)dicedcarrots

1tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper

1tspfreshthymeleaves1lb(500g)driedsplitpeas

2freshbayleaves

Inalargepotonhighheat,coverhamhockwith10cups(2.4L)water.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmerfor1hour.Removehamhockandsetasidetocool.Reservecookingliquid.

Inaseparatepotonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautéonions,celery,carrots,salt,pepper,andthymeleavesuntilvegetablesaretender,about7minutes.Add8cups(2L)cookingliquid,splitpeas,andbayleaves.Increaseheattohighandbringtoaboilfor1minute.Reduceheattolowandsimmerfor2hours.Addmorecookingliquid,ifnecessary.

Shredmeatfromhamhock,discardingskin,fatandbones,addmeattosouppot,andheatthrough.

Beer-BatteredFishIfyouwanttoblowsomeminds,servethiscrispybeer-batteredfishontopofSingaporeCurrySauce(p.207).It’sweird,butitworks.SearchtheOceanWisewebsiteforsustainablefishsuggestions.

MAKES4SERVINGS

2-3cups(500-750mL)canolaoil,forfrying1lb(500g)Pacificcodorotherwhitefish1tspkoshersalt,divided1cup(250mL)flour1tspbakingpowder

1tspsweetpaprika¾cup(185mL)coldpaleale

Preheatoilinadeeppotto350°F(180°C).

Cutthefishintostrips1–1½in(2.5–4cm)wideand3in(8cm)long.Seasonfishwith½tspsalt.Inalargebowl,whiskflour,bakingpowder,paprika,andremainderofsaltwithpaleale.

Placefishinbatterandcoatcompletely.Pickupfishpiecesandletexcessbatterrunoff.Gentlyplacefishinhotoilanddeepfryfor3–4minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Becarefulwhenworkingwithhotoil!Cookinbatchestoavoidcrowdingthepan.Drainonpapertowels.

SmokedSalmonChowderRich,creamy,andsmoky,thissoupisperfectforacrispwinterday.

MAKES4SERVINGS

2tbspbutter½cup(125mL)mincedleeks½cup(125mL)dicedcelery

1tspcelerysalt4cups(1L)salmon(seesidebar)orvegetablestock4cups(1L)dicedpotatoes½cup(125mL)all-purposeflour1cup(250mL)cream6–12oz(175–340g)hotsmokedsalmon,crumbled¼tspwhitepepperseasalt,totaste¼cup(60mL)choppedchives

SimpleSalmonStock:Simmerhead,tail,andbonesof1sockeyesalmonand1quarteredonionin5cups(1.25L)waterand½tspkoshersaltfor1hour.Strain

throughacolanderlinedwithtwolayersofcheesecloth.

Inalargepotonmediumheat,meltbutter.Addleeks,celery,andcelerysalt.Sautéuntilvegetablessoften,about4minutes.Increaseheattohigh,addstockandpotatoes,andbringtoaboilfor1minute.Reduceheattomedium-lowandsimmeruntilpotatoessoften,about10minutes.

Inabowl,whiskflourandcream,thenslowlyaddmixturetopotwhilestirring.Youmaynotuseallofcreammixture;don’tover-thickenchowder.Addsalmonandpepperandsimmergentlyfor5minutes.Seasontotastewithsalt.Toserve,topbowlsofchowderwithchives.

Chicken&SausageGumboThisgumboisthickenedwithatraditionaldarkrouxandfilé,a.k.a.gumbopowder,madeofgroundsassafrasleaves.Weuseleftoverchickenasthemainprotein,butrabbitandporkalsoworkwell.

Servegumboasaheartysouporasamealwithrice.

MAKES4–8SERVINGS

¼cup(60mL)oliveoil¼cup(60mL)vegetableoil½lb(250g)andouillesausage,diced¾cup(180mL)all-purposeflour2cups(500mL)dicedonions1cup(250mL)dicedcelery2bellpeppers,chopped4garliccloves,minced4cups(1L)low-sodiumchickenstock¼tspchipotlepowder¼tspgroundblackpepper2tspsmokedpaprika1tspfreshthymeleaves

1tspfreshoreganoleaves1tspfilépowder(optional)1–2tspkoshersalt1lb(500g)shreddedcookedchicken½cup(125mL)choppedgreenonions

Inalargeflat-bottomedpanonmedium,heatoils.Frysausagesuntilbrowned,about5minutes.Removesausageswithaslottedspoonandsetaside.Whiskinflourandcookonmedium-lowheat,stirringfrequently,untilrouxisbrown,aboutthecolorofabrick.Don’tletitburn.

Addonions,celery,andbellpeppers,andstirintorouxtocookuntilsoftened,about3minutes.Addgarlicandstock,stirringuntilmixturethickens.Addchipotle,pepper,paprika,thyme,oregano,filé,and1tspsaltandsimmerfor30minutes.

Addsausagesandshreddedchickenandsimmerforanother30–60minutes.Tasteandseasonwithremainderofsalt,ifdesired.Stiringreenonions.

ChickenallaCacciatoreThisisavegetable-forwardversionoftheclassicItalianhunter’smeal.Ifyoufrozelargenumbersoftomatoeslastsummer,thisisyouropportunitytousesomeofthem.Simmer2lb(1kg)frozentomatoesfor15minutesandsubstitutethemforfreshtomatoes.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

3–4lb(1.4–1.8kg)chicken,cutintopieces2tspkoshersalt,divided½tspgroundblackpepper2tbspextravirginoliveoil2cups(500mL)dicedonions1greenbellpepper,diced1carrot,minced2celerystalks,minced1garlicclove,minced10plumtomatoes,diced15.5-oz(160-g)tintomatopaste¼cup(60mL)whitewine

3tbspfreshoreganoleaves2tbspkoshersalt,forpastawater1lb(500g)driedpenne¼cup(60mL)choppedfreshparsley

Preheatovento325°F(160°C).

Seasonchickenwith1tspsaltandpepper.Inalarge,oven-proofpotonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addchickenpieces4atatime(donotovercrowdpot).Cookoneachsideuntilbrown,about8minutesintotal.Removechickenfrompotandsetaside.Sautéonions,bellpeppers,carrots,celery,andgarlicinpotuntilsoft,

about5minutes.Stirin1tspsalt,tomatoes,tomatopaste,andwine,andsimmerfor5minutes.Addoregano.Returnchickentopotandimmerseinsauce.Bringtoaboil,andthencoverpotandbakefor1hour.Removechickenandsetaside.

Inaseparatepotonhighheat,boil6qt/Lwater.Stirin2tbspsaltandpenne.Cookatalowboilfor6minutes.Drainpastaandaddtosaucemixture.Stirtocombine,thensimmeronlowheatfor5minutes.Transferpastaandsaucetoalargeservingdish,topwithchickenpieces,andsprinklewithparsley.

TurkeyMeatballsLightandbrightwithherbflavorsandsubtlespices,turkey

meatballsmakeagreatappetizerontheirownoratastyproteinboostforSingaporeCurrySaucewithKale(p.207)orinStuffed

SpaghettiSquash(p.188).

MAKESABOUT16MEATBALLS

1lb(500g)groundturkey3tbspplainbreadcrumbs1egg

1tspkoshersalt½tspgroundcumin¼tspgroundcoriander½tspgroundblackpepper2tbspcanolaoil,forfrying

Inabowl,combineturkey,breadcrumbs,egg,salt,cumin,coriander,andpepper,andmixwithyourhandsforabout30seconds.Roll1½tbspofmixturebetweenyourpalmstoformmeatballs.

Inafryingpanonmedium,heatcanolaoil.Frymeatballsuntilevenlybrownedandfirmtothetouch,about5minutes.

StuffedSpaghettiSquashMakespaghettisquashthefoundationofatasty,lightmeal.Youcansubstitutechoppedhamforthemeatballs,orleavethemeatout

altogetherforavegetarianmeal.

MAKES2–4SERVINGS

1medium-sizedspaghettisquash

2tbspoliveoil¾cup(185mL)dicedonions¾cup(185mL)dicedcelery½cup(125mL)slicedmushrooms1carrot,minced1garlicclove,minced½tspkoshersalt4ItalianSausageMeatballs(p.50),cookedandroughlychopped1cup(250mL)freshbabyspinach¼cup(60mL)breadcrumbs¼cup(60mL)gratedprovolonecheese¾cup(185mL)SpicyArrabiataSauce(p.156)¼tspdriedmarjoram¼tspdriedbasil¼tspdriedthymeleaves¼tspgroundblackpepper½cup(250mL)gratedmozzarellacheese¼cup(60mL)gratedEdamcheese

2tbspgratedParmesancheese

Preheatovento375°F(190°C).

Halvesquashlengthwiseandscrapeoutseeds.Inalargepotonhighheat,bring4qt/Lwatertoaboilandcooksquashfor10minutes.

Removeandsetasidetocool.

Inalargesautépanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautéonions,celery,mushrooms,carrots,garlic,andsaltuntilvegetablesaresoftened,about5minutes.

Withalargespoon,removefleshfromsquashandplaceinalargebowl.Addvegetablemixture,meatballs,spinach,breadcrumbs,provolone,ArrabiataSauce,marjoram,basil,thyme,andpepper.Mixtocombineandaddmixturetoemptysquashhalves.Sprinklewithmozzarella,Edam,andParmesancheeses.Bakeuntiltopisbubblingandbrowned,about30minutes.

OssoBucoOssobucoisthemostsoul-satisfyingdishIknow;everyingredientistransformedthroughlong,slowcooking.Useaheavy-bottomedbrazierorDutchovenwithatight-fittinglid.ServewithSweetCorn

Polenta(p.100).

MAKES4SERVINGS

4vealshanks

1tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper3tbspextravirginoliveoil1cup(250mL)dicedonions2carrots,slicedinthickrounds1cup(250mL)dicedcelery2tbspall-purposeflour3cups(750mL)low-sodiumchickenorvegetablestock½cup(125mL)whitewine3tbsptomatopaste4freshbayleaves2tbspfreshthymeleaves

3tbspchoppedfreshparsley

Ifyouaren’tcrazyabouttheideaofeatingveal,easeyourmindbymakingthisdishwithbeef,bison,lamb,orvenisonshanks.

Preheatovento250°F(120°C).

Rubshankswithsaltandpepper.Inalargeoven-proofpotonmedium,heatoliveoiluntiljustsmoking.Addshanksandbrownonallsides.Removeshanksfrompotandsetaside.Topot,addonions,carrots,andcelery,andsautéuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addflourandstirtocoatvegetables.Addstock,wine,andtomatopasteandstiruntilthicksauceforms.Addbayleavesandthyme.Returnshankstobottomofpan.

Coverpotwithlidandbakefor3hours.Removeanddiscardbayleaves.Sprinkleparsleyovershanksbeforeserving.

MoroccanLambwithSquashThisheartystewistraditionallymadeinaclayvesselcalleda

tagine.TaginedishesareoftenmeatandvegetableconcoctionswithaspicyorpungenttwistsuchasMoroccanolives,harissapaste,or

preservedlemons.ServewithcouscousorRicePilaf(p.55).

MAKES4SERVINGS

1lb(500g)lambstewmeat

1tspkoshersalt1tbspRas-el-hanoutorgarammasala

2tspharissapaste2tbspextravirginoliveoil4garliccloves,minced1cup(250mL)dicedonions20strandssaffronorabout½tspground3cups(750mL)butternutsquash,chopped¼cup(60mL)pittedMoroccanolives

1tbspmincedpreservedlemon

Ras-el-hanoutisaspicemixturefoundinTunisian,Algerian,andMoroccancuisine.Itcontainsgroundcuminandcorianderseeds,turmeric,ginger,

cardamom,andnutmeg,amongotherspices.

Preheatovento325°F(160°C).

Inabowl,mixlamb,salt,Ras-el-hanout,andharissa.InalargepotorDutchovenonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautégarlicandonionsuntillightlybrowned,about5minutes.Addlambmixtureandcookuntilbrowned,about5minutes.

Addsaffronandenoughwatertoalmostcoverlamb.Bringtoaboil,coverwithalid,andbakefor45minutes.Addsquashandbakeforanother30minutes.Stirinolivesandpreservedlemonandbakefor10minutes.

HomemadeCanadianBaconOfalltheusesforgarden-grownsage,baconismyfavorite.ItisremarkablyeasytomakeandpeoplegonutsforfreshCanadianbacon.Briningbaconrequiresthatyoubeabletostoreatleasttwoentireporkloinsin1gal(4L)ofliquidfortwodays.Iuseafood-gradecoolerandmakeuphalfthevolumeofthebrinewithiceto

keepthingsniceandcool.Aturkeybriningbagwilldothetrick,too.Baconrequiresoneingredientthatcanbechallengingtoacquire—it’snotsoldingrocerystores.Curingsaltisknownbyavarietyofnamesincludingpinksalt,PraguePowder#1,andnitritesalt.Youwillneedtogotoarealbutchershop—thekindwheretheymakesausageandbacon—andconvincethemyouknowhowtouseit.Theywillbereticent,buttellthemyouhaveareputablerecipeandinstructions.Donotusecuring

saltforanythingbutcharcuterie.

MAKES8POUNDS(3.5KG)

1½cups(375mL)koshersalt1cup(250mL)whitesugar2½tbspcuringsalt12freshsageleaves3tbspfreshthymeleaves12blackpeppercorns4garliccloves

2wholeporkloins

Inalargepotonhighheat,bring2qt/Lwatertoaboil.Addsalt,sugar,andcuringsalt.Reduceheattomediumandstiruntilsaltandsugarhavedissolved.Addsage,thyme,andpeppercorns.Lightlycrushgarlicwithsideofaknife.Don’tworryaboutstalksandgarlicskins;throwitallin.Turnoffheat,coverpotwithlid,andallowtocoolfor2hours.Placepotinrefrigeratorandthoroughlychill.

Trimfatandsilverskin(seep.148)fromporkloinandcutmeatinto6-in(15-cm)chunks.Placeporkandbrineinafood-gradecontainerlinedwithalargebriningbag.Topupwith1qt/Lwaterandicecubes(foratotalof4qt/Lbriningliquid).Keepcoolfor48hours.Rotateporkchunksevery12hourstoensureevenbrineabsorption.

After2days,removeporkanddiscardbrine.Rinseporkundercoldwaterandsetonawirerackoveracookiesheet.Placerackandporkinrefrigeratorfor18hours.

Preheatovenorsmokerto225°F(105°C).Ifusingasmoker,apply40minutesofhickoryorapplewoodsmoke.Heatporktointernaltemperatureof150°F(65°C),about2½hours.Removefromoven/smokerandallowtocoolfor2hours.Placebaconinfreezerbagsorvacuumsealandstoreinfreezerforupto6months.

HomemadePartyPizzasPizzaisoneofthosemagicfoods.It’sascomfortableinagreasy

sliceshopasitisinposheateries.(Thankyou,WolfgangPuck.)It’sthequintessentialpartyfood,pleasingbothtofive-year-oldsandtograndmothers.Youcangetapizzastoneforaslittleas$15—gobuy

oneimmediately.

MAKES412-IN(30.5-CM)PIZZAS

DOUGH:2cups(500mL)warmwater2tbspsugar

2tbspdryyeast5cups(1.25L)all-purposeflour1tbspkoshersalt1tbspdriedoregano1tbspdriedbasil

1tspdriedthyme3tbsp(45mL)extravirginoliveoilflour,forkneadingoliveoil,tocoatbowl

Generalrulesforpizzaassembly:Drymeats(suchassalamiorpepperoni)andmushroomsgounderthecheese,andwetvegetablesandhamgoontop,so

moisturecanescape.Nobodylikessoggypizza.

Inabowl,combinewaterandsugar,andstiruntildissolved.Stirinyeastandsetasideuntilitfoams.

Inalargemixingbowl,whisktogetherflour,salt,oregano,basil,andthyme.Addyeastmixtureandoliveoiltoflourmixture.Mixuntiladoughforms.Flouralargeworkingsurfaceandturndoughout.Knead,addingflourasrequired,untildoughissmoothandelastic,about5minutes.(AKitchenAidstandmixerwithadoughhookonmediumspeeddoesthejobinabout2minutes.)Coatinsideoflargebowlwith1tspoliveoilandplacedoughinside.Coverbowlwithwaxpaperorbeeswaxwrapandsetinawarmlocationtorisefor1hour.

Placeapizzastoneonmiddlerackofoven.Preheatovento500°F(260°C).Placeasheetofparchmentpaperonarimlessbakingsheet.(Anupside-downcookiesheetwilldo.)Cutdoughinto4pieces.Dustworkingsurfacewithflour.Roll1piecedoughintoa12-in(30.5-cm)round.Layitflatonparchmentpaper.

Applytoppingsasinstructedbelow.Slidedoughandparchmentpapercarefullyfrombakingsheetontopizzastone.Bakepizzawithtoppingsfor8–10minutes,untilcheeseislightlybrownedandbubbling.Carefullyslidepizzafromthepizzastonebackontobakingsheet,thentransferitontoacuttingboard.Holdedgeofpizzaandgentlytugparchmentpaperfromundercrust.Sliceintowedges.

Hereare2ofmyfavoritecombinations.Eachmakesenoughfora12-in(30.5-cm)pizza.

PESTOPIZZA:½cup(125mL)BasilPesto(p.76)1cup(250mL)gratedmozzarellacheese½cup(125mL)gratedEdamcheese

Spreadpestoevenlyoverpizzadough,leaving½in(1cm)barearoundedges.Coverevenlywithmozzarella,thenEdam.Bakeasdirectedabove.

DELUXEPIZZA:½cup(125mL)ArrabiataSauce(p.156)

10slicespizzapepperoni½cup(125mL)slicedfreshmushrooms1cup(250mL)gratedmozzarellacheese½cup(125m)gratedEdamcheese¼cup(60mL)dicedonions¼cup(60mL)dicedgreenbellpeppers

3tbspslicedolives

SpreadArrabiatasauceevenlyoverdough,leaving½in(1cm)barearoundedges.Laypepperoniandmushroomsevenlyoversauce.Coverevenlywithmozzarella,thenEdam.

Sprinkleonions,peppers,andolivesovercheese.Bakeasdirectedabove.

HomemadeRicotta(p.199)

VegetarianZucchiniLasagnaIstartedexperimentingwithvegetarianlasagnawhileworkingasastaffcookforaskihill.MycrewwasacollectionofsurprisinglyathleticAlbertanheadbangers,BCskibums,andAustralian

drifterswholivedinthestaffresidence.Theydevouredthiswithanimalintensity.Thisversionisbothmeat-freeandlow-carb.Use

youngtenderzucchini,soyoucanleavetheskinon.

MAKES6SERVINGS

SAUCE:2tbspextravirginoliveoil1½cups(375mL)dicedonions4garliccloves,minced1greenbellpepper,diced1carrot,peeledandfinelygrated1mediumzucchini,coarselygrated6freshbasilleaves2tbspfreshoregano1tspfreshthymeleaves

1tbspchoppedfreshrosemary3cups(750mL)crushedtomatoes¼cup(60mL)choppedflat-leafparsley

2tspkoshersalt½tspblackpepper

LASAGNA:2cups(500mL)HomemadeRicotta(p.199)orcottagecheese

2largeeggs½cup(125mL)choppedfreshherbs(mixofbasil,parsley,marjoram,oregano)½cup(125mL)gratedParmesancheese2mediumzucchinis,slicedlengthwiseto¼-in(6-mm)strips8driedoven-readylasagnanoodles3cups(750mL)freshbabyspinachleaves2cups(500mL)gratedmozzarellacheese½cup(125mL)gratedprovolonecheese½cup(125mL)gratedEdamcheese

Waituntilyouarereadytobakethelasagnabeforeyouassembleit.Ifyouputittogetherinadvance,thenoodleswillturntoaflourymush.

Preheatovento350°F(180°C).

Inalargesaucepanonmedium,heatoliveoil.Sautéonionsuntiltranslucent,about3minutes.Addgarlic,bellpeppers,carrots,andzucchiniandcookuntilsoft,about5minutes.Stirinbasil,oregano,thyme,rosemary,tomatoes,andparsley.Increaseheattomedium-highandbringtoalowboil.Addsaltandpepper,reduceheattolow,andsimmeruncovereduntilthickened,about60minutes.Tasteandseasonwithsaltandpepper,ifdesired.(Youcanbealittle

heavyonthesalt,asthissaucewillalsoseasonnoodlesandzucchinislices.)Inabowl,combinericotta,eggs,choppedherbmixture,andParmesan.Setricottamixtureaside.Spread1ladlesauceinbottomofadeep9×12-in(23×30.5-cm)bakingdishorfoillasagnapan.Placezucchinislicesoversauce.Add2moreladlesofsauce.Coverwith4driedoven-readylasagnanoodles.Spoonricottamixtureovernoodlesandspreadevenly.Layspinachleavesoverricottalayerandcoverwithanotherlayerofzucchini.Gentlycompresslayers,tomakespace.Add2moreladlessauceandanotherlayerofpasta.Ladleonremainderofthesauceandcoverwithmozzarella,thensprinkleprovoloneandEdamevenlyovertop.

Bakefor60minutesoruntilbrownedandbubbling.Restfor30minutesbeforeslicing.

HomemadeRicottaCheeseTrythisonce,andyouwillneverlookatcommerciallymadecottagecheesethesamewayagain.Watchyourfriends’faceswhenyoucasuallymention,“Thecheese?Oh,Imadeitthismorning.”

MAKES2CUPS(500ML)CURDS

8cups(2L)wholemilk1cup(250mL)cream1tspkoshersalt

3tbsplemonjuice

Thetemperatureofthemilkmixtureistremendouslyimportant.Ifitisn’tatarollingsimmer,thechemistrywon’twork.Also,onceitreachestemperature,the

mixturemayboiloverquickly,sobeonyourtoes.

Lineacolandersetinthesinkoroverapotwithtwolayersofcheesecloth.

Inalargesaucepanonmedium-lowheat,slowlybringmilkandcreamtoasimmer,thenaddsalt.Increaseheattomedium-highandbringmixturetoalowrollingboil.Addlemonjuiceandturnoffheat,butleaveonburner.Stirfor1minuteascurdsform,thenpourmixtureintocheesecloth-linedcolander.Letcurdsdrainfor30minutes.

Darcy’sDonkey-Kickin’Macaroni&CheeseMacandcheesemaynotbethemostheart-healthymealyoucan

eat,butliferequiresbalance.Sometimesthatmeanseatingsomethingforpurepleasure,thoughthisonehastheredeeming

additionoffreshvegetables.Overtheyears,wehaveembellishedtherecipetoachievethemostintensecheeseflavorimaginable.Enjoy.

MAKES4–6SERVINGS

3cups(750mL)broccoliflorets

1tbspoliveoil

¼cup(60mL)choppedprosciutto

6tbspbutter

6tbspall-purposeflour

3cups(750mL)milk½tspwhitepepper2cups(500mL)gratedcheddarcheese,divided1cup(250mL)gratedprovolonecheese1cup(250mL)gratedGruyèrecheese½cup(125mL)MacLaren’sImperialsharpcheddarorextra-sharpcheesespread

2tspDijonmustard

2tspLouisiana-stylehotsauce

1lb(500g)driedmacaroni½cup(125mL)freshpeas

Preheatovento375°F(190°C).

Inalargepotonhighheat,boil4qt/Lofwater.Addbroccoliandblanchfor1minute.Removebroccoliandimmerseincoldwater.Setaside.

Inafryingpanonmedium-high,heatoil.Fryprosciuttountilcrisp,about3minutes.Setprosciuttoaside.

Inalargesaucepanonmedium-lowheat,meltbutterandstirinflour.Cookuntilfragrant,about2minutes.Removesaucepanfromheatfor2minutes.

Inamicrowaveoven,warmmilkgentlyuntiltepid,thenaddtoflourmixtureandwhiskuntilsmooth.Placesaucepanbackonmedium-highheat,addpepper,andstiruntilitthickens.Reduceheattomedium-low.Add1cup(250mL)eachcheddar,provolone,andGruyère,ahandfulatatime,stirringuntilmelted.CrumbleinImperialcheddar,stirringgentlyuntilmelted.Stirinmustardandhotsauce.

Inalargepotonhighheat,bring6qt/Lwaterand2tbspsalttoaboil.Add

macaroniandcookuntiltenderbutfirm.Drainmacaroniandtransfertoalargebakingdish.Addcheesesauce,prosciutto,broccoli,andpeasandstirtocombine.Topwith1cup(250mL)cheddarandbakefor25minutes,untiltopisbrownedandbubbling.

Hoppin’JohnHere’smytakeonHoppin’John,atraditionalsouthernsidedishandagreatsourceoffiberandvitamins.It’salsothemostintenselycomfortingthingyoucaneatonarainyday.Ifyoudon’thave

collards,makethisdishwithkale,turnipgreens,ormustardtops.Note:Soakblack-eyedpeasthenightbeforeyoumakethisdish.

MAKES6–8SERVINGS

2tbspextravirginoliveoil1cup(250mL)dicedonions½(125mL)cupdicedcelery¾cup(185mL)dicedtomatoes2garliccloves,minced

2freshbayleaves1tbspRandy’sAll-PurposeSeasoning(p.119)3cups(750mL)choppedcollardgreens

1smallhamhock1cup(250mL)driedblack-eyedpeas,soakedovernight1cup(250mL)basmatirice1roastedredbellpepper(p.45),diced1cup(250mL)choppedgreenonions

Inalargeheavy-bottomedsaucepansuchasaDutchovenonmedium,heatoliveoil.Addonions,celery,tomatoes,garlic,bayleaves,andAll-PurposeSeasoning.Sautéuntilvegetablessoften,about5minutes.Addcollardsandturnuntilwilted.Addhamhock,soakedblack-eyedpeas,andenoughwatertobarelycoverotheringredients,butnotlessthan4cups(1L).Increaseheattohighand

bringtoaboil.Coverwithalid,reduceheattolow,andsimmerfor1hour.Removelidandsimmerfor1morehour.Ensurethatatleast2cups(500mL)liquidremainandaddmorewaterifneeded.

Removehamhockandshredmeat,discardingboneandskin.Removebayleavesanddiscard.Addricetopotandbringtoaboil,coverwithalid,andreduceheattolowfor10minutes.Turnoffheatandletpotsitcoveredonburnerforanother20minutes.Returnmeattopot.Stirinroastedredpeppersandgreenonions.

SmotheredGreenBeansIfyouknowalocalfull-servicehogfarmerorbutcher,chancesareshewillhavesmokedhamhocks.Thisisslow-foodnirvana:tendergreenbeanswithflakedhamandpotliquorsogoodyou’llsneaka

shooter.

MAKES8SERVINGS

2tbspextravirginoliveoil1mediumhamhock

1mediumonion½tspgroundblackpepper2lb(1kg)greenbeans,trimmedsalt,totastegroundblackpepper,totaste

Inalargepotovermedium,heatoliveoil.Searhamhockononesideforabout3minutes.Turnhamhockandaddonionsandpepper.Sautéonionsuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addgreenbeansandpushthemdownwithaspoon.Addjustenoughwatertoalmostcovergreenbeans.

Increaseheattohighandbringtoaboil.Coverwithalid,reduceheattolow,andsimmerfor1hour.Removelidandsimmerfor1morehour.

Removehamhockandsetasidetocool.Removemeatfromhamhockanddiscardskinandbone.Addmeattopotandadjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper,ifdesired.

GreenBeanMushroomBakeThisisadelicioushome-madeversionofagreenbeancasserolethatalwayshasaplaceinourChristmasdinner.Waterchestnuts

andalmondsgiveitanicelightcrunch.Mostrecipescallforcansofsoup,tinsofcrispyfriedonions,andotherprocessedfoods.This

versionistastier,lowerinsodium,andmorewholesome.

MAKES6–8SERVINGS

¼cup(60mL)unsaltedbutter1cup(250mL)dicedonions2cups(500mL)slicedwhitemushrooms1½tspkoshersalt½tspgroundblackpepper

2tbspsherry¼cup(60mL)all-purposeflour1cup(250mL)low-sodiumorHomemadechicken(p.176)orturkey(p.212)stock1cup(250mL)whippingcream1¼cups(310mL)gratedcheddarcheese,divided2pounds(1kg)greenbeans,trimmedandchopped18-oz(227-mL)tinslicedwaterchestnuts,drained¼cup(60mL)blanchedsliveredalmonds

Preheatovento325°F(160°C).

Inalargesaucepanonmediumheat,meltbutter.Sautéonionsfor5minutes,untilsoft.Addmushrooms,salt,andpepper,andsautéuntilmushroomsarecooked,about3minutes.Addsherryandreducefor2minutes.Stirinflourtomakeapaste.

Inthemicrowaveorasmallsaucepanonmedium-low,warmstockandcream

untiltepidandaddtosaucepan,stirringuntilverythick,about3–5minutes.Removefromheatandstirin¼cup(60mL)cheese,greenbeans,waterchestnuts,andalmonds.Placemixtureinaceramicbakingdishandsprinklewith1cup(250mL)cheddarcheese.

Coverdishwithalidorfoilandbakefor30minutes.Bakeuncoveredforanother15minutes.

ParmesanTurnipCroquettesTurnipscanbeatoughsell,especiallywithkids.Youcanputtheminstewswheretheyarejustonevoiceinthechorus,butontheir

own,turnipsneedabitofhelp.Enterthecroquette.ServewithBasilGarlicDip(p.79).

MAKES10CROQUETTES

1largeturnip1cup(250mL)breadcrumbs6tbspgratedParmesancheese,divided

1tspkoshersalt¼tspgroundblackpepper2eggyolks1eggwhite

1largeegg2–3cups(500–750mL)canolaoil,forfrying

Peelturnipandcutintochunks.Inaseparatesaucepanfittedwithasteamerrackonhighheat,steamturnipfor15minutes,untilcompletelytender.Drain,thenmash.Placemashedturnipontwolayersofcheesecloth,wrap,andwringoutliquid.

Inamixingbowl,thoroughlycombine1cup(250mL)turnippulp,2tbspbreadcrumbs,3tbspParmesancheese,salt,pepper,andeggyolks.

Inaseparatebowl,whisk1eggwhitewithwholeegg.Onaplate,combineremainderofcheeseandbreadcrumbs.Roll1½tbspturnipmixtureintoaball,dredgeinbreadcrumbmixture,andletstandfor10minutes.Dipeachballineggmixture,thendredgeagaininbreadcrumbmixture.Refrigerate1hour.

Inamediumsaucepan,preheatcanolaoilto350°F(180°C).Fillpotnomorethanhalfwaywithoil.Frycroquettesinbatchesof5untilbrowned,about2–3minutes.Becarefulwhenworkingwithhotoil!Removecroquettesanddrainonapapertowel.Servehot.

CollardGreenswithRoastedRedPepperMyvegetarianversionofthisusuallymeatysouthernclassic

requiresonlythebountyofyourgardenandtakeshalfthestandardcookingtime.Feelfreetosubstitutebeetgreensorturniptopsforsomeorallofthecollardgreens.Servebesidegrilledmeator

Darcy’sDonkey-Kickin’MacaroniandCheese(p.200).

MAKES6–8SERVINGS

12largecollardgreenleaves

2tbspcanolaoil1mediumonion,thinlysliced2garliccloves,peeledandmashedflat2tbspRandy’sAll-PurposeSeasoning(p.119)1roastedredbellpepper(p.45),diced

Removestemsfromcollardsanddiscard.Sliceleavesinto1-in(2.5-cm)strips.Inalargepotonmedium,heatoil.Sautéonionsandgarlicfor5minutes.

AddAll-PurposeSeasoningandstirfor1minute.Increaseheattohighandadd3cups(750mL)waterandcollardgreens.Bringtoaboilandturngreensuntilwilted.Pushcollardsdownwithaspoontoimmerseincookingliquidandreduceheattolow.

Coverpotandsimmerfor1hour.Addroastedredpepperandsimmerforanother5minutes.

SingaporeCurrySaucewithKaleIliketoservethiscreamy,richsaucewithBeer-BatteredFish(p.183),butdon’tstopthere.YoucanalsopoachchickenbreastsorTurkeyMeatballs(p.187)inthiscoconut-basedsauce,orgo

meatlessandusesquaresoffirmtofu.Servewithrice.

MAKES4SERVINGS

1tbspcanolaoil

2tbspgratedfreshginger2garliccloves,minced1jalapeñopepper,seededandminced½cup(125mL)mincedshallots

3tbspcurrypowder½tbspgroundcumin½tbspgroundcoriander½tspgroundturmeric

3tbsptomatopaste214-oz(398-mL)canscoconutmilk1–2tspkoshersalt,totaste3cups(750mL)choppedlacinatokaleBeer-BatteredFish,TurkeyMeatballs,ortofu¼cup(60mL)cilantroleaves

Inalargesautépanonmedium,heatcanolaoil.Sautéginger,garlic,jalapeño,andshallotsuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addcurrypowder,cumin,coriander,turmeric,andtomatopasteandstirtocombine.Stirincoconutmilkandsalt,andbringtoalowsimmer.Stirinkaleandsimmerfor15minutes.

Addturkeymeatballs(orfish,chickenbreasts,tofusquares)andsimmeruntilheatedthrough.Alternately,servetoppedwithBeer-BatteredFish.Garnishwithcilantroleaves.

NutFlourWafflesIfyouhaveafoodprocessor,youcanmakeallkindsofflourmixes,addingwhichevergrains,cereals,ornutsyoulike.Thisbatterworksforbothwafflesandpancakes.Topwithanycombinationofbutter,

syrup,nuts,andslicedbananas.

MAKES5–6BELGIANWAFFLES

⅓cup(80mL)walnuthalves⅓cup(80mL)pecanhalves½cup(125mL)wholewheatflour1cup(250mL)all-purposeflour1tspkoshersalt4tspbakingpowder

1tspgroundcinnamon⅛tspgroundnutmeg

2largeeggs1½(375mL)cupsmilk3tbspbrownsugar

3tbspcanolaoil

Pecansarerichinantioxidantsandmaythereforeplayaroleinimprovingheartandbrainfunction.Walnutsarerichinhealthyoils,fiber,vitamins,and

minerals.

Youcanusenutflourinothertypesofbaking;simplysubstituteitforuptohalfoftheregularflourinalmostanyrecipe.

Preheatwaffleiron.

Inafoodprocessor,pulsewalnuts,pecans,andwholewheatflouruntilmixtureissmoothandfine.Inalargebowl,whisknutflourwithall-purposeflour,salt,bakingpowder,cinnamon,andnutmegtocombine.

Inaseparatebowl,whiskeggs,milk,sugar,andcanolaoil.Addwetingredientstodryandwhiskuntiljustcombined.Letstandfor5minutes.Ladle⅔cup(160mL)batterontowaffleironandcookaccordingtomanufacturer’sinstructions.

ChristmasDinner

AftertwentyyearsofpreparingChristmasdinner,myspreadhascoalescedintoafewtraditionalcorerecipesthatareintegratedforefficiency.Therecipesforthebrine,quickturkeystock,gravy,andeventhecompoundbutteraredesignedtobeusedtogethertocreatecomfortingflavorsthatrunthroughtheentiremeal.RoundoutyourholidaymealwithRoastedGarlicMashedPotatoes(p.162)andGreenBeanMushroomBake(p.204).

Thenextday,turkeyleftoversgetamakeoverintoBoxingDaySoup(p.218).Note:InGreatBritainandCanada—andmuchoftheformerBritishEmpire—thedayafterChristmasiscelebratedwithcleverlyreimaginedturkeyleftoversanddiscountshopping.

FragrantTurkeyBrineIremainskepticalofbastingasawaytoattainjuicybreastmeat.Itseemstomethatlittleifanymoisturecouldpenetratetheskinandsubcutaneousfatthatcoversthewhitemeatsimplybypouringpandrippingsoverthebird.Certainlythejuicescontainenoughfattohelpthebrowningprocess,andthatisaworthwhileexercise.Butas

awaytoaddmoisture?No.Briningensuresamoist,flavorfulturkey,andIswearitspeedsupthecookingtimeaswell.

MAKES2GALLONS(8L)

1gal(4L)water1cup(250mL)koshersalt

2tspblackpeppercorns3garliccloves,lightlysmashed1cup(250mL)honey1bunchfreshflat-leafparsley

1bunchfreshthyme26-in(15-cm)sprigsfreshrosemary12freshsageleaves

5freshbayleaves1lemonororange,halved

48icecubes

Inalargesaucepanonhighheat,bringwatertoaboil.Addsalt,peppercorns,garlic,honey,parsley,thyme,rosemary,sage,andbayleaves.Squeezeinlemonororangeandaddbothhalves.Coverpanandturnoffheat,allowingbrinetosteepandcoolforseveralhours.Placeinrefrigeratortofinishcooling.

Ina4qt/Lcontainer,placeicecubes,andtopupwithcoldwater.Inalargefood-safecontainerorbriningbag,combineicewaterwithbrine.Submergeturkeyinliquidfor4–24hours.

QuickTurkeyNeckStockBeforeroasting,theturkeydonatesitswings,neck,andgizzardtoastockthatwillensureintenseturkeyflavorinthegravyandthe

stuffing.

MAKESABOUT6CUPS(1.5L)

1turkeyneck1turkeyheart1turkeygizzard

2turkeywingtips1onion,quartered,skinon1carrot,cutintochunks1tbspextravirginoliveoil½tspkoshersalt

Preheatovento375°F(190°C).

Removeneckandorganmeatsfromturkeycavity.Discardliverandbag.Usingaverysharpknife,removeoutertwojointsfromeachturkeywing,leavingsegmentattachedtoturkeybreast.

Inalargemetalroastingpan,placeneck,heart,gizzard,andwingtips.Addonionsandcarrots.Drizzlewitholiveoilandsprinklewithsalt.Bakefor30minutes.Turnmeatsoverforevenbrowning.Roastforanother30minutes,untilmeathasbrowned.

Fillakettlewithwaterandbringtoaboil.Inalargepot,placeroastedmeatsandvegetables.Pour2cups(500mL)boilingwaterintoroaster.Usingawooden

spoon,scrapeupbrownresidueandpourmixtureintosouppot.Addanother4cups(1L)watertopot.Onmedium-lowheat,simmerstockfor1hour.Strainandsetstockasideforstuffingandgravy.

Thyme-OrangeCompoundButterSmearthisflavorfulbutterovertheskinoftheturkeybeforeroasting.It’ssogood,youmayalsowanttotossitwithboiled

carrotsoruseittotopbakedyams.

MAKESABOUT½CUP(125ML)

½cup(125mL)unsaltedbutter

2tspfreshthymeleaves¼tspgroundblackpepper

zestof1orange

Inabowl,softenbutter.Stirinthyme,pepper,andzestandmixtocombinewell.Mashwithafork.

FarmhouseStuffingThisisthestuffingthatfolkshavebeenmakingforgenerations.Itwillinfuseyourturkeywithallthearomasofthegarden.Therecipeisverybasicbutopentoalltheimaginationyoucanmuster.Someyearsweaddcrumbledsausagemeat,otheryears,choppedfreshoysters.Sliverednutsorevendicedapplesarealsoawelcome

addition.(Whataboutcrumbledporksausagesanddicedapples?Seehowthisworks?)ThisversioncallsfortheadditionofQuickTurkeyNeckStock(p.212),butifyoucan’tmanagethat,store-boughtlow-sodiumchickenstockwillsuffice.Idon’tjudge.

MAKES12SERVINGS

500gwhitebreadcubes

300gmultigrainbreadcubes¾cup(185mL)unsaltedbutter4cups(1L)dicedonions3cups(750mL)dicedcelery2½cups(625mL)slicedfreshwhitemushrooms2tspkoshersalt

1tspgroundblackpepper1cup(250mL)choppedfreshparsleyandstems2tbspchoppedfreshsageleaves2tbspchoppedfreshrosemaryleaves

2tbspchoppedfreshthyme2cups(500mL)QuickTurkeyNeckStock(p.212)

Breakwhiteandmultigrainbreadintochunkswithyourfingersandspreadonalargebakingsheettodry,preferablyadayortwobeforemakingstuffing.

Preheatovento325°F(160°C).

Anhourbeforetheturkeygoesintheoven,placebreadcubesintoalargemixingbowl,leavingenoughroomtoaddvegetablesandstocklater.(Youmightneedtosplititbetweentwobowls.)Inalargesaucepanonmediumheat,meltbutter.Addonions,celery,mushrooms,salt,andpepperandsautéfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.Addparsley,sage,rosemary,andthyme,stirringtomixevenly.

Pourvegetablemixtureoverbreadcubesandtosstocombine.Pourstockovermixtureandtossagain.Whenturkeyisreadytogointooven,stuffasmuchmixtureintocavityofturkeyasyoucan.

Linealargebakingdishwithfoil,enoughtowrapfoilovertop.Placeremainderofstuffinginbakingdish,wrapfoilovertop,andplaceinrefrigerator.Onehourbeforedinner,placedishinovenandbakeuntilinternaltemperaturereaches165°F(75°C).

RoastTurkeyThecenterpieceofagreatholidaymealshouldlookandsmell

amazing.Thisbirddelivers.Briningensuresthateverybiteismoistanddelicious,whilethecompoundbutterhelpstheskinbrownand

fillsthehousewithanundeniableChristmasaroma.

MAKES12SERVINGS,WITHENOUGHLEFTOVERSTOMAKEBOXINGDAYSOUP(P.218)

116-lb(7-kg)turkeyFragrantTurkeyBrine(p.211)FarmhouseStuffing(p.214)Thyme-OrangeCompoundButter(p.213)

Helpfulhints:

DonotuseakosherorButterballturkey,whicharealreadyseasoned.

Doensurethatbrineiscoldbeforetheturkeygoesin.

Donotrinsethebrineoff.Thesaltandsugarwillhelptheskinbrown.

Doletyourturkeywarmtoroomtemperaturefor1hourbeforeroasting.

BrineturkeyovernightinFragrantTurkeyBrine.

Preheatovento325°F(160°C).

Removeturkeyfrombrine,toweldry,andmovetoalargeroastingpan.FillcavityofturkeywithFarmhouseStuffing.Makeabaseball-sizedballofstuffingandplaceitunderneckflapskin,tuckingtheskinundertoholditinplace.UseyourhandstosmearskinwithThyme-OrangeCompoundButter.

Roastturkeyuntiljuicesinlegrunclearwhentestedwithaforkorpreferablytoaninternaltemperatureof165°F(75°C).Note:Stuffinginsideturkeymustalsoreach165°F(75°C)toensurethatanypathogensarerenderedharmless.Abrinedturkeyrequires12–15minutesperpound.Toensureevenbrowning,turnroasterevery45minutesorso.Removeturkeyfromroaster.Coverwithfoilandacoupleofteatowelsfor15–30minutesbeforecarving.

TurkeyGravyThecombinationofturkeystockanddrippingsmakethisgravyavirtualexplosionofamazingturkeyflavor.Makinggravyisnot

rocketsciencebut,inaway,itischemistry.Gravycananddoesgowrong,andforthatreasoncooksfeelimmensepressuretogetitright.Relax.Mathishard,gravyisnot.Onlyatinybitofeffortis

requiredtoguaranteememorablegravy.

MAKES12SERVINGS

½cup(125mL)turkeyfatfromroastedturkey½cup(125mL)all-purposeflour4cups(1L)QuickTurkeyNeckStock,(p.212)¼tspwhitepepper

koshersalt

Removeturkeyfromroasterandsetasidetorest.Pourliquidandfatfromroasterintoabowlorgravyseparator.Itshouldsoonseparateintoawater-basedbrownliquidonthebottomandlighter-coloredoilontop.Usealadletoremovefattoaseparatebowl.Reservepanjuices.

Thereshouldbelotsof“fond,”richbrownbitsstucktothebottomoftheroaster.Placeroasteronburneronmedium-lowheatandaddin½cup(125mL)turkeyfat.Add½cup(125mL)flourandwhiskuntilcombined.Cookflouruntilaromaticandlightbrownincolor.

Removeroasterfromheatandletitcoolfor2–3minutes.Add2cups(500mL)stock,gentlyscrapingwithawoodenspoontoremovefond.Addinpanjuices

fromroaster.Returnroastertoheatonlowandaddstockin½-cup(125-mL)portions,whiskinguntilitachievesasmoothconsistency.Seasontotastewithwhitepepperandsalt,ifdesired.

Simmerfor5minutes.

Whenyouarereadytoserve,thinmixturewithmorestock,ifnecessary.Ifyouwantareallyperfectlookingsauce,pouritthroughawiremeshsieve.

BoxingDaySoupBoxingDaySoupishowDarcyandIturnChristmasDay’sfrenzyoffeastingintoanext-daycleanse.Italsoputstoimmediateusethelargepotofturkeystockwecookedafterdinnerthenightbefore.Wemakethissoupwithstar-shapedsemolinanoodlescalledstelline,butanysmallsemolinapastawillwork.However,ourkidsbegfor

TurkeyandStars,andyourswilltoo.

MAKES8SERVINGS

2tbspextravirginoliveoil2cups(500mL)dicedonions2cups(500mL)dicedcarrots2cups(500mL)dicedcelery

2tspkoshersalt1tspfreshgroundblackpepper

1tspfreshthymeleaves½cup(125mL)pinotgrigio(orotherdrywhitewine)12cups(3L)turkeystock½lb(250g)driedstellinepasta1cup(250mL)dicedgreenbeans3cups(750mL)cubedleftoverturkeyparsley,forgarnish

Inalargepotonmedium-low,heatoliveoil.Addonions,carrots,celery,salt,pepper,andthymeandsauté,stirringoccasionallyuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Addwineandreducefor3minutes.Addstock,bringtoaboil,andadd

pasta,stirringcontinuouslyforabout1minutetopreventsticking.

Simmerfor10minutes.Tastestockandadjustseasoning,ifdesired.Addgreenbeansandturkeyandsimmeranother10minutes.Garnishwithparsleyandservewithaturkeysandwich.

Index

AfricanLambShanks,146African-StyleButternutSquashSoup,139AngryPennewithSpicyArrabiataSauce,156

appetizersBasilGarlicDip,79Guacamole,31HerbedRicottaSpread,175MashedPeaBruschetta,78PicodeGallo,31RoastedRedPepperHummus,174

Apple-PearStreusel,166

arugulagrowing,16

asparagusgrowing,20,67–69

Bacon&MushroomKale,160Bacon,HomemadeCanadian,193BakedChicken&Rice(ArrozconPollo),143BakedPolenta,99BakedZucchiniRatatouille,155BasicFertilizerMix,14BasilGarlicDip,79BasilPesto,76

beefBeef&SpinachCabbageRolls,154BeefEnchiladaswithFreshMexicanTomatoSauce,93–94Darcy’sNewWorldBologneseSauce,151GreenMan’sMeatloaf,The,47

Beer-BatteredFish,183

beetsEvenEasierPickledBeets,135SpicyPickledBeets,134

BlueZones,169–70

blueberriesOriginalRhubarb-BlueberryCrumble,The,61

BoxingDaySoup,218

breadsandbakedgoodsCheddarDillBiscuits,163SpicyZucchiniScones,117SuperSimplePitaBread,62

breakfastNutFlourWaffles,209

broccoli&broccolirabeDarcy’sDonkey-Kickin’Macaroni&Cheese,200FancyBroccoli,110SpicyBroccoliRabewithPasta,57

BroiledSockeyewithGardenHerbs,42

CabbageRolls,Beef&Spinach,154CanadianCaldoVerde,180canning,hotwaterbath,126–27

carrotsgrowing,21,65recipesPeaSoupwithCarrots,173

Catsup,FreshTomato,120

cauliflowerRoastedCauliflower,157VersatileCauliflowerSoup,80–81

chardgrowing,20,52recipesChicken&RainbowChard,39SautéedChard&Onions,52SicilianChard,53

CheddarDillBiscuits,163Cheese,HomemadeRicotta,199ChiangMaiNoodles,106

chickenBakedChicken&Rice(ArrozconPollo),143Chicken&RainbowChard,39Chicken&SausageGumbo,185ChickenallaCacciatore,186ChickenFricasseewithGardenVegetables,40–41HomemadeChickenStock,176–77VersatileCauliflowerSoup(proteinoption),81

chickpeasChickpeaSaladwithCilantroPesto,34KaleChickpeaSoup,178RoastedRedPepperHummus,174

Chimichurri,FreshHerb,29

chivesgrowing,17,20

ChristmasDinnerrecipesBoxingDaySoup,218FarmhouseStuffing,214–15FragrantTurkeyBrine,211QuickTurkeyNeckStock,212RoastTurkey,216Thyme-OrangeCompoundButter,213TurkeyGravy,217

cilantrogrowing,21recipesChickpeaSaladwithCilantroPesto,32

ClassicDillPickles,132

collardgreensCollardGreenswithRoastedRedPepper,206Hoppin’John,202

companionplanting,65.Seealsosuccesssionplantingcompost,13–14,121–23containergardening,12covercrops,17–18,124

cucumbersgrowing,20recipesClassicDillPickles,132Old-FashionedBread&ButterPickles,131Old-FashionedRelish,133TzatzikiCucumberSalaad,83

Darcy’sDonkey-Kickin’Macaroni&Cheese,200–201Darcy’sNewWorldBologneseSauce,151Darcy’sOnionSoup,142

dessertsApple-PearStreusel,166Strawberry-RhubarbPie,115–16OriginalRhubarb-BlueberryCrumble,The,61

diets,healthy,169–70

dillgrowing,21recipesCheddarDillBiscuits,163ClassicDillPickles,132DillPotatoSalad,87Salmon&DillFrittata,93

dips.Seesauces,dips,andpestosDuckFatRosemaryPotatoes,161Dumplings,FrankShore’s,164

eggsGreenEggs&Ham,93Salmon&DillFrittata,93Sausage&PepperFrittata,92SofritoPoachedEggs,101EvenEasierPickledBeets,135

FancyBroccoli,110Farm-StylePearSauce,136FarmhouseStuffing,214–15Farmhouse-StyleSlicedOnionSalad,86fertilizers,12–14fish&seafoodBeer-BatteredFish,183BroiledSockeyewithGardenHerbs,42FriedHalibutwithTartarSauce,90SmokedSalmonChowder,184sustainable,89

FragrantTurkeyBrine,211FrankShore’sDumplings,164FrenchLentilStewwithLambSausages,150FreshHerbChimichurri,29FreshSofrito,82FreshTomatoCatsup,120FriedHalibutwithTartarSauce,90Frittata,ThreeWays,92–93

garbanzobeans.Seechickpeasgardencrops,choosing,14–16GardenHarvestMinestrone,137GardenVarietyLettuceWraps,44Garden-StyleWorWontonSoupwithHomemadeWontons,32–33

gardeningautumn,121–25greenhouse,167–68spring,11–25summer,63–71

garlicharvesting,73recipesBasilGarlicDip,79GarlicScapePesto,77RoastedGarlic,141RoastedGarlicMashedPotatoes,162

GoddessoftheRanchDressing,38grassremoval.Seelawnremoval

greenbeansGreenBeanMushroomBake,204GreenBeanswithPepitas,158GreenBeanswithShallots&Almonds,112SmotheredGreenBeans,203

GreenEggs&Ham,93GreenMan’sMeatloaf,The,47greenmanure.Seecovercropsgreenhouses,167–68GrilledAutumnVegetables,159GrilledLambwithHerbs,149Guacamole,31

HerbedMustardRackofLamb,148HerbedRicottaSpread,175HerbedTabbouleh,35

herbsgrowing,16–17,20–22

HomemadeCanadianBacon,193HomemadeChickenStock,176–77HomemadePartyPizzas,194–95HomemadeRicottaCheese,199Hoppin’John,202Hummus,RoastedRedPepper,174

ItalianSausageMeatballs,50

JamaicanRice&Peas,113

kaleBacon&MushroomKale,160CanadianCaldoVerde,180KaleChickpeaSoup,178SingaporeCurrySaucewithkale,207

KangarooMeatballsinRoastedRedPepperSauce,48–49ketchup.Seecatsup

lambAfricanLambShanks,146FrenchLentilStewwithLambSausages,150GrilledLambwithHerbs,149HerbedMustardRackofLamb,129Lamb&SpinachKebabs,144LambShoulderChopswithCorianderRub,145MoroccanLambwithSquash,191SpicyMeatballsinGreekTomatoSauce,152–53

Lasagna,VegetarianZucchini,197–98lawnremoval,70–71

leeksgrowing,125

lettucegrowing,20,65LettuceWraps,GardenVariety,44

LinguiniwithCreamyPestoSauce,109

MalaiKoftainTomato-GingerSauce,96–97MashedPeaBruschetta,78MatzohBallSoup,179meateating,environmentalimpacts,170meatsubstitutes,171meat,organic,171

meatballsItalianSausageMeatballs,50KangarooMeatballsinRoastedRedPepperSauce,48–49Lamb&SpinachKebabs,144SpicyMeatballsinGreekTomatoSauce,152–53TurkeyMeatballs,187

Meatloaf,TheGreenMan’s,47

mizunagrowing,17

MoroccanLambwithSquash,191mulching,124

NutFlourWaffles,209

Old-FashionedBread&ButterPickles,131Old-FashionedRelish,133

onionsgrowing,21recipesDarcy’sOnionSoup,142Farmhouse-StyleSlicedOnionSalad,86SautéedChard&Onions,52

storage,72OriginalRhubarb-BlueberryCrumble,The,61OssoBuco,190

ParmesanFricos,165ParmesanTurnipCroquettes,205

parsleygrowing,16,20recipesHerbedTabbouleh,35ParsleyButterNoodles,59VealScallopiniwithParsleyCaperSauce,46

pastaandnoodledishesAngrePennewithSpicyArrabiataSauce,156ChiangMaiNoodles,106Chicken&RainbowChard,39Darcy’sDonkey-Kickin’Macaroni&Cheese,200–201LinguiniwithCreamyPestoSauce,109ParsleyButterNoodles,59PastawithCherryTomatoTunaSauce,91SpicyBroccoliRabewithPasta,57Spinach&FetaPenne,107VegetarianZucchiniLasagna,197–98

PeaSoupwithCarrots,181

pearsApple-PearStreusel,166Farm-StylePearSauce,136

pesto.Seesauces,dips,andpestosPharoahSalad,84pickles&relishesClassicDillPickles,132EvenEasierPickledBeets,135Old-FashionedBread&ButterPickles,131Old-FashionedRelish,133QuickFridgeRelish,118SpicyPickledBeets,134

PicodeGallo,31PitaBread,SuperSimple,62Pizza,HomemadeParty,194–95plant-basedmeals,170–71

polentaBaked,99SweetCorn,100

PotatoFertilizerMix,14

potatoesgrowing,21,23–25recipesDillPotatoSalad,87DuckFatRosemaryPotatoes,161RoastedGarlicMashedPotatoes,162SeasonedOvenFries,103Tapas-StyleFriedPotatoes,102

storage,71

QuickFridgeRelish,118QuickPickledShallotDressing,37QuickTurkeyNeckStock,212

radishesgrowing,21,65recipesRadish&WhiteBeanSalad,36

raisedbedgardening,12,18Randy’sAll-PurposeSeasoning,118rapini.SeebroccolirabeRedLentilDal,58redpeppers,roastedCollardGreenswithRoastedRedPepper,206KangarooMeatballsinRoastedRedPepperSauce,48–49RoastedRedPepperHummus,174RoastedRedPepperSauce,48–49

rhubarbOriginalRhubarb-BlueberryCrumble,The,61Strawberry-RhubarbPie,115–16

ricedishesBakedChicken&Rice(ArrozconPollo),143JamaicanRice&Peas,113WildRice&Greens,54RicePilaf,55

RoastTurkey,216RoastedCauliflower,157RoastedGarlic,141RoastedGarlicMashedPotatoes,162RoastedRedPepperHummus,174RoastedTomatoBasilSoup,140

rosemarygrowing,20,22

SaagPaneer,51

sagegrowing,20,22

saladdressingsGoddessoftheRanchDressing,38QuickPickledShallotDressing,37Zero-FatSaladDressing,88

SaladRollswithSpicyPeanutSauce,104–05

saladsChickpeaSaladwithCilantroPesto,34DillPotatoSalad,87Farmhouse-StyleSlicedOnionSalad,86HerbedTabbouleh,35PharoahSalad,84Radish&WhiteBeanSalad,36TzatzikiCucumberSalad,83

Salmon&DillFrittata,93SalsaVerde,30salt,about,28sauces,dips,andpestosBasilGarlicDip,79CilantroPesto,34Darcy’sNewWorldBologneseSauce,151Farm-StylePearSauce,136FreshHerbChimichurri,29FreshMexicanTomatoSauce,94–95FreshSofrito,82FreshTomatoCatsup,120GarlicScapePesto,77GreekTomatoSauce,152–53Guacamole,31HerbedRicottaSpread,175PicodeGallo,31RoastedRedPepperHummus,174RoastedRedPepperSauce,48–49SalsaVerde,30SingaporeCurrySaucewithKale,207SpicyArrabiataSauce,156SpicyPeanutSauce,104–5TartarSauce,90Tomato-GingerSauce,96–97

Sausage&PepperFrittata,92SautéedChard&Onions,52seafood,sustainable,89SeasonedOvenFries,103Seasoning,Randy’sAll-Purpose,119seedlings,planting,63–65seeds,growingfrom,16SicilianChard,53SingaporeCurrySaucewithKale,207slugcontrolmethods,22–23SmokedSalmonChowder,184SmotheredGreenBeans,203sodremoval.SeelawnremovalSofritoPoachedEggs,101soilpreparation,12–13,17–18soups,stews,andstocksAfrican-StyleButternutSquashSoup,139

BoxingDaySoup,218CanadianCaldoVerde,180Chicken&SausageGumbo,185Darcy’sOnionSoup,142FrenchLentilStewwithLambSausages,150GardenHarvestMinestrone,137Garden-StyleWorWontonSoupwithHomemadeWontons,32–33HomemadeChickenStock,176–77KaleChickpeaSoup,178MatzohBallSoup,179PeaSoupwithCarrots,181QuickTurkeyNeckStock,212RedLentilDal,58RoastedTomatoBasilSoup,140SmokedSalmonChowder,184VersatileCauliflowerSoup,80–81

SpicyBroccoliRabewithPasta,57SpicyMeatballsinGreekTomatoSauce,152–53SpicyPickledBeets,132SpicyZucchiniScones,117

spinachgrowing,16,19–20recipesBeef&SpinachCabbageRolls,154Lamb&SpinachKebabs,144SaagPaneer,51Spinach&FetaPenne,107

SpinachFertilizerMix,14springplanting,18–21sprouting,168–69

squashAfrican-StyleButternutSquashSoup,139MoroccanLambwithSquash,191StuffedSpaghettiSquash,188

Strawberry-RhubarbPie,115–16successionplanting,65–66.SeealsocompanionplantingSuperSimplePitaBread,62SweetCornPolenta,100

Tabbouleh,Herbed,35TamilTurnipGreens,111Tapas-StyleFriedPotatoes,102terraforming,18

thymegrowing,20recipesThyme-OrangeCompoundButter,213

tomatoescanning,127growing,19,66–67,67–68recipesArrabiataSauce,156ChickenallaCacciatore,186Darcy’sNewWorldBologneseSauce,151FreshMexicanTomatoSauce,95–95FreshTomatoCatsup,120GreekTomatoSauce,152–53PastawithCherryTomatoTunaSauce,91RoastedTomatoBasilSoup,140Tomato-GingerSauce,96–97

transplants.Seeseedlings

turkeyFragrantTurkeyBrine,211QuickTurkeyNeckStock,212RoastTurkey,216TurkeyGravy,217TurkeyMeatballs,187

turnipsParmesanTurnipCroquettes,205TamilTurnipGreens,111

TzatzikiCucumberSalad,83

vealOssoBuco,190VealScallopiniwithParsleyCaperSauce,46

Vegetables,GrilledAutumn,159VegetarianZucchiniLasagna,197–98VersatileCauliflowerSoup,80–81

weeding,69–70WildRice&Greens,54Wontons,Homemade,33

Zero-FatSaladDressing,88

zucchiniBakedZucchiniRatatouille,155SpicyZucchiniScones,117VegetarianZucchiniLasagna,197

RandyShorePHOTO:ArlenRedekopRandyShoreisafoodandsustainabilitywriterfortheVancouverSunandauthorofTheGreenManblog;heisalsoaformerrestaurantcookandanavidgardener.HeisarecipientoftheBCandYukonCommunityNewspaperAssociationBestColumnistAwardandtheBCWildlifeFederationArtDownsAwardforconservationjournalism.RandyandhiswifeDarcygrowasmuchoftheirownfoodaspossibleonanacreinRobertsCreekonBC'sSunshineCoast,creatingnewrecipesandcustomizingfamiliaronesbasedonwhattheseasonsbring.

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