GREEN TEXTILES

Presented by:Gauri Nagpal

TC-12

INTRODUCTION• Green textiles refer to clothing and other accessories that

are designed to use organic and recycled materials, less packaging and more energy-efficient manufacturing.

Organic: Any crop cultivated by using organic principles of agriculture like organic manures and bio fertilizers can be considered Organic. This is a crop that is cultivated without pesticides, chemicals and synthetic fertilizers

Recycling: It involves processing of used materials into new products to prevent waste and to reduce the consumption of fresh Raw material and energy.

Natural : Of or from natural origin.

NEED FOR ECO-FRIENDLY & RECYCLABLE TEXTILES

The traditional textile industry consumes large amounts of earth’s natural resources and pollutes the environment as their production and processing involves Chemical Intensive Applications.

The pollution problems :- Textile packaging ,drums, and toxic chemicals are dumped into landfills. Synthetics are produced using polluting chemicals and take a long time to breakdown in landfill sites. Production of synthetic materials involve use of large amt. of oil , energy and emits greenhouse gases.

Growing Concerns - Increasing industrial Pollution Industrial waste disposal problems Economic and social health of the farmers and industrial workers Water shortage Fossil fuel and raw material depletion Climate change.

IT CAN BE ACHIEVED BY:-

• Influencing the supply chain to use Sustainable Processes.

• Running operations in an environmentally friendly way.» Alternate method» Optimum utilization of resources» Impact reduction» Safe disposal» Operational control

• Working to conserve energy and reduce waste.» Reuse» Recycle» Advanced technology

• Exploring the use of sustainable materials and products.» Material Substitution

ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY

CLASSIFICATION

ORGANIC COTTONORGANIC COTTON

ORGANIC WOOLORGANIC WOOL

ORGANICORGANIC

HEMP/BAMBOOHEMP/BAMBOO

ORGANIC SILKORGANIC SILK

MAN-MADEMAN-MADE RECYCLED RECYCLED

LYOCELLLYOCELL

CORN/SOYACORN/SOYA

RECYCLED COTTONRECYCLED COTTON

GREEN FIBRESGREEN FIBRES

NATURALNATURAL

RECYCLED POLYESTERRECYCLED

POLYESTER

NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON

NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON

MILK PROTEIN FIBERMILK PROTEIN FIBER

COTTON FACTS• 40-47% of worlds textiles is made from cotton.• Cotton is one of agriculture's most water-intensive crop . It requires 7000 to 29000 liters of water per kg• It is estimated to consume 11% of the world's pesticides and 25% of worlds insecticides.• 7 of these pesticides are known probable or likely to be human carcinogenic.• 6 OUNCES OF Toxic chemicals = 1 conventional cotton shirt

PROBLEMS WITH CONVENTIONAL COTTON Farm workers health Drinking water contamination Air pollution Depletion of soil nutrients Increased exposure to carcinogens Other health risks.

Organic cotton Organic cotton is cotton that is grown without chemical fertilizers or pesticides and from plants which are not genetically modified.

ADVANTAGES OF ORGANIC COTTON

Sustainable agriculture is encouraged Natural resources are preserved Feel is softer and it lasts longer.

CONVENTIONAL COTTONSeed preparation

Treat seeds with fungicides or insecticides & use of Genetically Modified Organism seeds

Soil and waterUse of synthetic fertilizer (loss of soil due to

predominantly mono crop culture) + requires intensive irrigation.

Weed controlApply herbicide to soil to avoid weed germination +

repeated use of herbicides for weeds which do grow

Pest controlUse of insecticides heavily + use of pesticides, frequent

Arial spraying with Potential drift onto farm workers, wildlife & communities.

Harvesting Defoliates with toxic chemicals

ORGANIC COTTON

• Use untreated seeds+ never uses G.M.O

• Build strong soil through crop rotation due to which it retains water efficiently due to increased organic matter. so less irrigation required.

• Physical removal rather than chemical destruction. control of weeds through cultivation and hang hoeing.

• Maintain balance b/w pests and their natural predators by keeping soilhealthy + use beneficial insects, biololigical & cultural practices to controlpests .may use trap crops planted to lure insects away from cotton.

• Relies mostly on seasonal freeze for defoliation, may stimulate defoliation through water management

Problems associated with organic cotton.

•More labour intensive .•Fields must be free of chemicals for three years before the crop can be certified organic.•Organic cotton may travel half way around the world to reach the ethical customer ,therefore costlier.

ORGANIC WOOL Conventional wool:• Insecticides are used to control mange, mites, lice, flies, and other pests on sheep herds, which can be toxic to

both the sheep and the people exposed to them. • During shearing ,folds of wool bearing skin are cut.• Scouring of wool-large amount of water & energy is consumed

– Pollution-detergents, chemicals– Health problems: detergents-interfere with endocrine system. Toxic to aquatic life.

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Organic wool:• Livestock are fed on natural vegetation (certified organic) matter with bio fertilizers to build healthy immune systems • Mulesing is not practiced.• Synthetic hormones and genetic engineering of the sheep is prohibited. • Good cultural and management practices of livestock .• The greasy wool is scoured (cleaned) in special approved biodegradable cleansing agent

All certification agencies accredited with IFOAM can certify organic wool.

Improved properties– Excellent insulation and thermal properties– Excellent softness and absorbency

ORGANIC SILKConventional silk :• Made by boiling the intact cocoons and unwinding the single silk strand onto reels.• This is done so the silk fibres are not broken and can be reeled off in a continuous strand• 500 cocoons or 32 kg of mulberry leaves are required for

one T-shirt.

Organic silk :• In its production the pupae are not stifled or killed to obtain reeled yarn but the opened cocoons are spun into yarn. • Made from the cocoons of wild and semi-wild silk moths• Feed is completely free from harmful substances.

IMPROVED PROPERTIES:• Yarn is soft and fluffy• Good insulating properties, provides warmth• Since the fibre is spun, it has better fibre strength and durability

LIMITATION:

This silk is slightly discoloured by the alkaline solution secreted by the moth to create the hole

BAMBOO FIBRE

It is fast growing woody plant and is highly sustainable. Thick pulp is obtained from bamboo plant which is made into a fine pulp. It is then Processed & turned into bamboo fibre.

FEATURES:

• Provides UV protection.• Absorbent and fast-drying. • Contains a property called “Bamboo Kun” which means that it is naturally anti-microbial.• It is more antistatic and has natural de-odourising property.• Requires no replanting, pesticides or fertilizers. • Its roots retain water in the watershed, sustaining riverbanks and reducing water pollution.• It takes in nearly 5 times the amount of greenhouse gasses, and produces 35% more oxygen than an equivalent

stand of trees.• Bamboo helps to improve soil quality and helps rebuild eroded soil.• 100% Biodegradable.

END USE:

1. Intimate apparels - bath-suits, t-shirt, socks. 2. Due to its anti-bacterial nature- hygiene materials such as masks, mattress, food-packing, surgical clothes , bandage, Towels.3. Decorating items: curtain, television cover, wall-paper and sofa slipcover. 4.sports wear.

NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON

• Naturally coloured cotton is a naturally pigmented fibre that grows in shades of green and brown.

• The natural colour is due to the plant’s inherent genetic properties. The colour is a part of lumen.

FEATURES:• Shades can vary over seasons and geographic location due to

climate and soil variations.

• Have a higher Limiting Oxygen Index (L.O.I) than white cottons, which indicates that they are less flammable.

• Does not fade when laundered, but becomes stronger and more saturated. Some coloured cottons also darken when exposed to light; however, green is very light sensitive and changes to tan.

Naturally Coloured Cotton provides

Environmental benefit:• Natural Colour Cotton is grown without harmful fertilizers or chemical pesticides • Because the colour is already present in the fibre, naturally coloured cottons do not have to be dyed• Without the need for abundant water or energy sources, new mill sites have many more choices for location.• There is no problem of disposal of effluent.

Benefit to the wearer:• Natural Colour Cotton is luxuriously soft, due to no harsh chemical treatments.• No dyes in clothing next to skin so beneficial for skin sensitive people.

LIMITATIONS• The majority of naturally coloured cotton varieties are of lesser quality than most conventional cottons • Presently only available in a limited range of colours.• There is a fear of contamination of white cotton by cross-pollination which causes subsequent problems for fabric

manufacturers, resulting in a lower price for their cotton.

RECYCLED POLYESTERDerived from waste product which are then recycled into polyester yarn, fabric and garment.

CONVENTIONAL RECYCLED OIL CONSUMING LESS OIL CONSUMING LONG PRODUCTION CHAIN SHORTER PRODUCTION CHAIN MORE WASTE LESS WASTE MORE POLLUTANT LESS POLLUTANT

origins of the waste:1. Mill waste – waste from original polyester chip manufacturer.2. Post industrial waste – waste obtained from industries that have used the polyester yarns and or fabrics and have created waste as off cuts3. Post consumer waste – waste obtained as collectable waste from consumer use e.g.. Discarded PET bottles.

How is the bottle converted into textile material1. Conversion from bottle to flake.2.Conversion from flake to yarn.

PET Bottle Flake Production:

Bottle bales Pre-washing Sorting Grinding Floatation Tank Drying Packing

PET Bottle Recycling Process

Bottles Flakes De-polymerization &Re-polymerization

Yarn Staple fiber Chips

RECYCLED COTTON• Recycled cotton is cotton fabric which is made from recovered cotton from every stage of cotton processing

that would otherwise be cast off during the spinning, weaving or cutting process.

• Growing, harvesting, and processing of cotton involves a lot of waste• 40 percent of the cotton is discarded between field and manufacturer , most of it ending up in landfills• The discarded cotton waste is collected, shredded into small fibres and processed again into yarns and fabrics.• Can also be used for making-Paper , bags

BENEFITS• very less chemicals used during processing• Conservation of soil, water and energy.• Saving in the amount of land• it gives an irregular and washed out look and feel

The poly lactic acid fibre is produced from the lactic acid obtained through the fermentation of corn starch.This lactic acid is transformed into short chain PLA by condensation and further to Lactic by vacuum distillation process. After ring opening polymerization which is the last step ,it can be extracted into fibre.

• FEATURES: The energy required for production of corn fibre is low. No hazardous gases are created when it is incinerated It safely decomposes into carbon dioxide, hydrogen and oxygen when disposed off in soil, therefore 100% biodegradable Strength, stretchability and other properties of PLA are comparable to those of petrochemical Fibres Use renewable resources such as corn & wheat & reduce consumption of fossil fuels by 30-50%

PROPERTIES:• Good crimp retention and improved wicking. • Comfort and hand of natural fibres.• Is wrinkle free• Is resilient - it doesn’t shrink.• Doesn’t absorb odours.• Has excellent soil release and stain resistance.• Has excellent U.V. resistance (better than polyester)• Is more breathable and hydrophillic than polyester

END USE: Apparel, upholstery ,carpeting, agriculture applications etc.

CORN FIBRE/PLA FiBRE

LYOCELL• Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fibre• It is made from the cellulose derived from hard wood. • Wood pulp/Raw cellulose is directly dissolved in an amine oxide solvent. The solution is filtered, extruded into an

aqueous bath of dilute amine oxide, and coagulated into fibre form.

FEATURES:• The production of lyocell has minimal impact on the environment and economical use of energy and water • It uses amine oxide as a solvent, 99% of which is recycled during the manufacturing process & is non toxic.• Waste products expelled in the air and water from the manufacturing process are minimal and considered harmless

• Products made from lyocell can be recycled, incinerated, or digested in sewage. • The fibre formed is of highly crystalline structure and has smooth, uniform surface and circular cross-section.• It provides comfort of natural fibre coupled with excellent aesthetics.

ADVANTAGES:• Involves less steps and chemicals for its manufacture than viscose.• Solvent and water can be recycled• Faster production than viscose.• Biodegradable.

PROPERTIES:• Naturally breathable & Absorbent

• Good easy care property and durability as that of a synthetic fibres.

• Good wet strength and dry strength.

• Soft and silky handle, good draping property.

MODIFICATION WITH IMPROVED PROPERTIES:

1. TENCEL A-100 Non Fibrillating

Better dyeability

Higher degree of Whiteness than tencel

No need of Bio polishing

2. TENCEL A-200 Stable in alkaline medium

3. SEACELL Manufactured from sea weed and cellulose

Health promoting effect

4. HYDROCELL Good alternative in wound care

END USES:• Apparel: sports wear, casual wear, Knit wear

• Home products : sheets ,pillow cases, bath towels

• Industrial Application: wipes filters ,battery separators

LIMITATIONS:• Fibrillation, Pilling ,Expensive production

RARE ECO FRIENDLY FIBRES

WET PROCESSING – Environmental Concerns

Environmental concerns related to textile wet processing:• – Chemical intensive• – Heavy metals – iron, copper, lead etc, found in dyestuffs auxiliaries, binders etc.• -- Dye effluent-wastewater disposal issue

Bio Processing of Textiles

It is the application of living organisms and their components to industrial products and processes, which are mainly based on enzymes.

Advantages over conventional methods:

• Safe and environment friendly• Energy efficient• Require mild experimental conditions• Enzymes are reusable• Specific action• Less effluent water with low salt and harsh chemicals.

SOME ALTERNATIVES IN TEXTILE PROCESSING

1. DESIZING

2. SCOURING

3. BLEACHING

4. DYEING AND PRINTING

5. FINISHING

Use of enzyme

Use of enzyme

Hydrogen peroxide Bleaching and use of enzyme

•Dyes free from hazardous amines, azo free dyes•Glucose based biodegradable reducing agent•Use of natural coloured cotton and wool•Use of Clay dyes, natural dyes and low impact dyes•Formaldehyde free cross linking agent•Use of synthetic thickener in place of kerosene for pigment printing•Pthalates free printing

•Use of polycarboxylic acid•Use of enzymes

Amylase

Pectinase, Lipase ,Protease

Catalase

» Oxidoreductase

»

» Cellulase, laccase

DESIZINGDESIZING

SCOURINGSCOURING

BLEACHINGBLEACHING

DYEINGDYEING

FINISHINGFINISHING

TEXTILE ENZYME APPLICATION

ECO LABELSThis label provides the general public with information on the environmental impact of consumer goods that arises from their production, usage and attracts the attention of consumers to alternative environmentally friendly products.

OBJECTIVES:• It provides consumers with guidance in order to choose products least hazardous to the environment.• It draws attention towards environmentally friendlier products.• It also motivates the producers and traders to develop and offer less polluting products.

BASIS FOR EVALUATING THE ENVIRONMENTAL COMPATIBILITY OF PRODUCTS:• Consumption or raw material and energy.• Toxicity of contents.• Emissions (e.g. exhaust gases,sewage,noise)• Disposal/recycling• Packaging• Distribution and transportation• Quality and safety• Longevity, ease of repair.

Some labeling schemes - EU Eco-label Scheme,EcoMark.

Ecomark IndiaA government operated seal of approval program for environmentally preferable consumer products. Central Pollution Control Board (CPCB) (Ministry of the Environment and Forests, India) ...

Hong-Kong Eco-LabelA product certification that validates if the environmental performance of the product conforms to the relevant technical standard about environmental protection. Hong Kong Federation of Environmental ...

Ekolabel:IndonasiaMinistry for Environment Ekolabel Indonesia Standard ...

Singapore Green Label SchemeCan be used on products which meet the eco standards specified by the scheme. Singapore Environment Council Singapore Green Label ...

Green MarkTo promote the concept of recycling, pollution reduction and resource conservation. Environment and Development Foundation (EDF) ...

GREEN CERTIFICATION

• A standard has been developed jointly by organic associations in the US, European Union and Japan called GOTS-Global Organic Textile Standard.

• It includes organic certification for the farming, processing and dyeing of textiles as well as social responsibility standards for each of these steps.

• For any product to receive a genuine certification it must comply with a number of criteria and be 100% organic in production.

• Some other major certifications - USDA Organic, SKAL and FAIRTRADE, Oeko-tex, cradle to cradle, Global recycle standard

Green textiles are the healthiest and the

only way to honour our past

and promote a ‘sustainable future’.

REFERENCES1. Asian Textile Journal- June 2007

Organic cotton and its uses – K.S. Murthy2. Asian Textile Journal- June 2007

Green Apparels- a new revolution in the textile sector-M Parthiban,S karthikeyan & R Divya3. Journal of The Textile Association- September-October 2005

Eco friendly Textiles –A comprehensive overview-M parthiban & O.L Shahmugasundaram.4. Colourage Annual- 2005

Naturally Coloured Cotton-Growing Awareness-Wasif A.I. & Singh Vivek L5. Journal of The Textile Association- January- February 2007 Bamboo-The Natural,green & eco Friendly. – M.Renuka Devi,Poornima N. & Priyadarshini S

Guptan6. Colourage- August 2007

Education in Eco-Labeling – Dr. Nadigar7. Asian Textile journal-December 2001

Lyocell fibres-Z.Zikeli

8. Asian textile journal-December 2001PLA ecofriendly synthetic fibre- sudipta s mahish and vikas aggarwal.

9. Asian Textile Journal- November 2005Non Traditional Natural Textile Fibres- G Kamatchi & S Krishna Bala

10. Asian Textile Journal- Jaunary 2007Pineapple and Banana Fibres – Indra Doraiswamy , K.P. Chellamani and R.Krishnan

11. Asian Textile Journal- November 2005Soyabean Protein Fibres & their Processing – S.R Shukla & B. Jiban Dash

12.Asian Dyer -December 2007Enzymes and Textile Sector – Anupama Mishra & Anita Rani

13. Man Made textile India-April 2003Corn fibres:Dawn of new era in ecotextiles- N.Arun

14. www.indiantextilejournal.com15. www.natural-environment.com16. www.thesmarttime.com17. www.wildfibres.co.uk

THANK YOU