gitg box blind
DESCRIPTION
Deer StandTRANSCRIPT
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How to Build a
PORTABLE BOX STAND
Note: These instructions are provided
only as a guide to building a portable box
stand. Anyone building this or any other
type of structure assumes all liability for
their own construction. If you do not feel
confident building this structure, work with
a local building expert to assist you. When
using power tools, always follow the safety
instructions provided by the manufacturer.
Not ng eats t e com ort o a we - u t ox stan . ese popu ar
stands provide the hunter protection from the elements as well
as concealment. However, traditional box stands are not constructed to
ma e tear own an mov ng t e stan easy.
The stand aired on Get in the Game is admittedly much larger than
your typ ca ox stan . ou can use our as c nstruct ons to u
your own box stand. If you want to build a smaller stand simply scale
down the dimensions presented here.
THE BASE (8’ wide x 6’ deep x 8’ high)
The base is the only part of the project where light-weight materials are no used. After all,
the base must be strong and stable.
ater a s:
• - oot pressure treate x
These form the legs for the stand. You can substitute with 8-foot pressure treated
4”x4” if building a smaller stand. However, do not use legs taller than 8 feet . The
g er t e stan t e ess sta e t e structure w e, espec a y n g w n s.
emem er t at u ng a g er ox stan w not mprove your unt ng
• pressure treate x
• (8) 5” long lag bolts
• (12) 8’ pressure treated 2”x4”
• pressure treate xInstructions:
1. Start by laying out the two 8’ sides. Lay the two 6”x6”s flat on the floor, parallel
to each other 7’9” apart (outside measurement). This will allow for your 2”x8” to
ave a . over ang on eac s e.
2. Lay a 2”x8” (called the “band”) across the top of the 6”x6” and pre-drill a hole
or a ag o t. a e sure . o x exten s eyon t e x . e top o t e
2”x8” should be flush with top of the 6”x6”. Screw one lag bolt through the hole in
the 2”x8” into the 6”x6”. Use four wood decking screws around each lag bolt for
extra stability. Repeat on the other side.
3. Lay a 2”x4” across the bottom, 1’ off the other end of the 6”x6” and use wood decking screws
to attach the 2”x4” to the 6”x6”s. Add in cross bracing int e same manner.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 to build a second frame for the base.
. Now stand up both sides of base so the 2”x8”s are on
the outside and at the top. Make sure you have some
e p to eep t e s es up. os ton t e s es
6’ apart and parallel to each other.
. ttac a pressure treate x cut to ong to t e
6”x6” and attach with lag bolts and screws to complete the band on one side. Attach
the 2”x4” across the bottom of each 6-foot side using deck screws and then attach
cross racng. s ng cross rac ng s cr t ca to ensure t e structure s r g .
Repeat this for both of the 6’ sides. You should now have a platform that is 6’ by 8’.
7’9’’
’
8’
8’
6 ’
8 ’
2
3
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6. Now rip a 7’ long 2”x4” down the middle to create
your ledger strip. This ledger strip is attached to the
inside of your band on the 8-foot side. This will provide
added support for the joists that will support your
floor system. Screw in your ledger strip so the top
of the ledger strip is 51 ⁄ 2” from the top of your band.
Remember, a 2”x6” is actually 1½”x5½”. This will ensure
that when you place your floor joists, the joists will be
flush with the top of the band.
7. Cut three 2”x6” joists to 5’ 9” and place on the ledger strip on 24” centers. Use 3” wood screws to attach joists
to the outside bands. Do not attach the center joist until
you have placed your decking. This will help you better
align the edge of the flooring so each of the two sheets
overlaps the center of the joist. Remember, nothing is
ever perfectly square so minor
adjusts are almost
always necessary.
8. Cut two ¾” pressure treated 4’x8’ sheets down to two 4’x6’ sections.
Attach sheets to base using deck screws. Place screws 6” apart.
BUILDING THE SIDES
The lightweight construction materials for the walls of the box stand is what
allows for its portability. You will need to locate aluminum materials.
We used two different types of aluminum products. Most of the project was completed using 1”x2” aluminum channel.
We also used 2”x2” aluminum tubing on the four corners and the shooting rail. Both of these products are used in
the construction of sun rooms and screened porches. To find suppliers of these products on the web, you can enter
“aluminum building materials for patio room” into your computer’s search engine. Or, you can contact a local contractor
and see if you can purchase left-over materials or new materials.
Building the sides is the easiest part of the project. You will need a circular saw, or better yet, a miter saw, with a blade
designed for cutting aluminum. Your local hardware store will have these blades available.
Materials
• (100 feet) 1”x2” aluminum channel
• (32 feet) 2”x2” aluminum tubing
• (50) aluminum “L” brackets
• (10 pounds) sheet metal screws (5 ⁄ 8”x 1 ⁄ 4”)
• (8) 4’x8’ 1 ⁄ 8”sheets luan plywood
The combination of thin luan and aluminum framing results in a very rigid, strong and lightweight wall. We assembled
each of the four walls, including the door, in the shop. Once each wall was constructed it was a simple matter of
attaching the walls to the platform once in the field.
To allow for a pitch to our roof, we built the front wall slightly taller (6’) than the rear wall (5’8”). This way, the rain drains
off the rear of the structure instead of dripping down on your gun barrel.
51/2”
4
6 ’ 4 ’
4 ’
You should now have a base that is strong and rigid.
The base should not rock back and forth. If it does,
add additional bracing to remove any movement in
your base. Constructing a strong base is critical.
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Instructions
1. Start by constructing the front wall
(8’ side). Cut 3 sticks of the 1”x2”
channel and 1 stick of the 2”x2” tubing
to a length of 7’8”. One 1”x2” channel
stick will run parallel to the floor, the
x tu ng st c s pos t one
above and parallel to the bottom
channel. This second stick becomest e ottom o your s oot ng ra . e
next stick of 1”2” channel is placed 12”
above your shooting rail (becomes the
top o your w n ow an na y t e ast
stick of 1”x2” channel is placed at the
top of your wall (in front wall, this is 6’
rom t e ottom o t e wa .
Note: You can make the shooting
w n ow ta er y ra s ng t e t r
stick of aluminum channel.
. ext, cut two x a um num st c s
to 6’ high. These will be the ends of the wall. Use the “L” brackets to attach
t e open- ac c anne st c s to t e
x tu ng st c s.
Note: the aluminum sticks should
be placed so the 1” side of the stick
is against the wall (in other words,
you will be 2” wide).
Make sure that the channel stick has
the flat surface toward the floor on the
ottom, an at sur ace ac ng up on
the top rail that attaches to the roof.
(see insets)3. Cut three pieces of channel to 3’,
and attach these on 2’ centers to the
ottom c anne at t e oor an to
the bottom of the shooting rail. This
will allow for additional strength when
rest ng your gun on t e ra .
4. Now that you have assembled this
wa s e eton, you are rea y to cut
an attac t e uan to t e s es. e
recommend that you paint your luan
us ng ename pa nt we use green
before cutting to size. Cut the firstsheet to 36”x96”. This will cover the
wa rom t e oor to t e ottom o
the shooting rail. Cut another sheet
24”x96” and attach to the top of the
wall. Use sheet-metal screws to attach
t e uan to t e a um num st c s. ttac
screws every 6” to add strength and
keep the walls from rattling against the
tu ng n t e w n .
2x2 1x2
2’ 2’
’
’
’
2’ 2’
FRONT
CHANNEL
FACES UP
CHANNEL
FACES DOWN
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THE ROOF
There are several options for the roof. We used four sheets of tin (4’x10’)
and allowed for overhang on all four sides. This overhang provided additional
protection to the structure from rain. We used roofing screws with rubber
washers (designed for this type of application) to attach the sheets.
There are a variety of roofing materials on the market that you can use. Many
of the fiberglass and vinyl roofs are even lighter than the tin we used. Attach the
roofing to two 1”x4” pressure treated boards. Each board will sit on top of and
parallel to the front and back wall.
ASSEMBLY IN THE FIELD
At this point it’s time to load everything on a trailer and transport to your location
in the field. Once you reach your location it’s a simple matter of unloading
everything and making sure the base is level and stable. Don’t guess—use a
level to make sure the base is level before you assemble the sides and roof.
Although you only need two people to set up the structure, it is much safer if you have three of four people on hand to
stabilize ladders and hand up materials.
1. Start by positioning the front wall and use 2” deck screws to screw down through the 1”x2” tubing into the top of the
band. Use a screw every 12”.
2. Next, position a side wall and pilot drill a hole through the 1”x2” open-back channel on the side wall into the 2”x2” tubingon the front and real wall. Drill in a sheet metal screw to attach the walls to each other. Use one screw every 12”.
3. Finally, and this is where you need as much help as possible, lift the roof onto the structure. Use at least two or even
four people in the stand and two to four people below to lift the roof on top of the walls. Use ½” wood screws to attach the
top open-back channel to the 1”x4”. (see above illustration)
1”x4”
FRONT
WALL
1”x2”ALUMINUM
CHANNEL
WOOD SCREW(FINAL STEP TO
ATTACHING ROOF)
ROOFING
SCREWROOF
MATERIAL
LUAN
2”X8”
BAND
FLOOR
1”x2” ALUMINUM
CHANNEL
SHEET METAL
SCREW
PILOT DRILLED
HOLES EVERY 12”
Once this is complete you can
attach your door and windows
if you decide to use windows.
Use your imagination!
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