gilbert- jerusalem historical atlas

8/9/2019 Gilbert- Jerusalem Historical Atlas

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J E R U S A L E MIllustrated History Atlas

M a rtin G ilbert


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PrefaceIn th is A t las , I t race the h is to ry of Jerusalem f r o m bib l ica l t ime s to the present da y. Each

map is i llust ra ted by a fac ing page of pr in ts or ph oto gra ph s. Th e s ix ty- s ix ma ps, take ntoge ther , a re in tend ed to prov ide a broad survey o f Jerusa lem 's h is to ry , w i t h spec ia lemphas is on the C i ty ' s deve lo pm ent du r ing the last hund red and f i f t y years, wh en i t grewf ro m a rem o te and im pove r i shed p rov i nc i a l t o w n o f t he O t to m a n Em p i re , w i t h a pop u la t i ono f less t han 4 0 ,0 00 , t o a cap i t a l c i t y w i t h a po pu la t i on o f m o re t han 3 60 ,000 .

In the b ib l iography, beginning on page 124, I have l is ted those maps, at lases, guide books,t rave l le rs ' ta les and h is to r i ca l w ork s wh ich I consu l ted wh i le p re par ing the maps, and onw hic h I d rew fo r the co nte m po rary mater ia l wh ich they conta in ed fo r each decade o f thec i t y ' s h i s to r y .

I am ex tre me ly g rate fu l to a l l those ind iv idu als wh o gave me advice, enc ourag em ent andmater ia ls , bo th in Lo nd on and Jerusa lem, du r ing m y w or k on the maps and i l l us t ra t ions fo rth is vo lu m e: in par t i cu la r I shou ld li ke to thank Aza r ia A lo n , Pro fessor Yehoshua B en -Ar ie h ,Ru th Chesh in , F r i t z C ohen , Dav id S . Cu r t i s , Dav id E ldan , O ded Eran , Rabb i Hugo G r yn ,Peter Ha lban , Mrs . Ad ina Ha ran, Ya 'acov Har lap , Dr . M ichae l He ym an n, Dr . Be n jam in Ja f fe ,M r s . She il a Ko re t z , Hen ry Ke nda l l , Ted dy Ko l l ek , To m i La m m , M enahem Lev in , I reneLe w i t t , G . Er i c Mats on, Margare t M cA fee , Ma r t in Pa isner, Pro fessor Leo P icard , ZevRadovan , Dav id Rub inger , M ichae l Sacher, Hanna Saf ieh , Lord Sam uel , Mrs . Yae l Ve red ,Dr . Zev V i ln ay , M rs . M . W ah l , Mrs . G i l l i an Webster , Dr . Ma r t in W e i l , Frank Whee ler ,Pro fessor Y igae l Yad in , S ima Ze l ig , and Josef Zweig fo r the i r much apprec ia ted he lp andgu idance. In add i t ion , my thanks are due to those who have k ind ly sent me cor rec t ionsw hic h I have incorp ora te d in to th is ed i t io n , and to wh o m I am most g ra te fu l : Pro fessorA v i g a d , Ak i va Az u la i , S i dney Coro b , Paul Co t t e re l l and M ax Nu rock .

I sho u ld a lso l i ke to than k those L ib rar ies , Agenc ies and In s t i tu t ion s w h ic h have prov idedme w i th h is to r i ca l ma ter ia l , o r w i th access to fac ts and docu me nts , used or quote d in th isa t las : The Ang lo - I s rae l As soc ia t i on , L on do n ; t he Bod le i an L i b r a r y , O x fo rd ; t he Cen t ra lZ io n is t Arch ives , Jerusa lem; the E l ia Pho to-Serv ice , Jerusa lem ; the Embassy o f the Hashe-m i te K ing dom o f Jo rda n , L on do n ; t he Em bassy o f Is rae l, Lo nd on ; t he Em bassy o f t heU n i t e d S t ate s o f A m e r i c a , L o n d o n ; t h e F o re ig n a n d C o m m o n w e a l t h O f f i c e , L o n d o n ; t h eG ove rnm en t P ress O f f i ce , Te l Av i v ; t he Im p er i a l W ar M useum , Lon do n ; Is rael I n fo rm a t i on ,L o n d o n ; the Israe l Museu m, Jerusa lem ; the Jerusa lem Fo un da t io n ; the Jerusalem Post;the Jewish A ge ncy , Jerusa lem ; Keren Hayes od, Jerusa lem ; Keren Ka yem et , Jerusa lem ; theMatson P hoto S erv ice , Ca l i fo rn ia ; the M un ic ip a l i t y o f Jerusa lem; the Pa les tine E xp lora t ionF u n d , Lo nd on ; Ross Ph o to , Je rusa lem ; S t . A n t on y ' s Co l l ege , M idd le Eas t Cen t re , O x f o r d ;The Times; and t h e U n i t e d N a t i o n s , L o n d o n .

A l tho ug h I have t r ied to bu i ld up each o f m y maps f r o m a w id e var ie ty o f a rch iva l andpr in ted sources , par t i cu la r a ckn ow ledge me nt is due to Dan Bahat and Car ta , The Israe l Mapand Pub l i sh ing C om p any L t d . , and t o t he i r Historical Atlas of Jerusalem , fo r the pr inc ipa lma ter ia ls used on maps 6, 11 and 13 ; to Car ta for the mate r ia ls and design of map 65 ; andto Pro fessor Yehoshua Ben-Ar ieh fo r the bas ic in fo rmat ion and lay-out o f map 32.

I am also gra tefu l t o Miss Sue To w ns he nd , fo r her secretar ia l he lp; to Jerry Moe ran andJean Hu n t o f S tud io E dm ark , O x f o rd , f o r copy in g m any o f t he p r i n t s and pho tog ra phs ;to T .A . B ic kn e l l , fo r h is superb car tograp h ic w or k over many mo nth s ; and to my wi f e fo rher cons tan t enc ouragem ent . As w i th each o f my prev ious h is to r i ca l a t lases, I shou ld we lcom efr o m readers any c orr ec t ion s, suggested am end me nts, or ideas and ma ter ia ls fo r ex t ra maps.19 January 1987 M ar t i n G i l be r t

Mer ton Co l lege


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List o f maps1. Jerusalem from Ancient Times to the destruct ion of the Second Templei n 7 0 A D .2. The Dispersal of the Jews, 587BC-70AD3. The Jerusalem Region and the Jew ish Re volts against Rom e4. Jerusalem and Christianity5. C hris tian ity and the Jerusalem Region6. Byzant ine Jerusalem, 32 4A D -62 9A D7. Jerusalem and th e conq uests of Islam8. The Crusader March to Jerusalem9. Jerusalem: H oly C ity , C ity of Pilgrimage since 1000 BC10. Jerusalem and the Jewish Search for a Secure Haven, 10 00 AD -16 00

11. Crusader Jerusalem12. The Return of the Jews to Jerusalem, 1200-184113. Mamluk and Ottoman Jerusalem14. The Jews of Jerusalem under Ottoman Rule, 1517-183115. A Jewish Journey to Jerusalem, 147916. The Wai l ing Wal l under Ottoman Rule, 1517-191717. Jerusalem and the Messianic Ideal, 400AD-174018. Sabbatai Zevi , Messianism, and Jerusalem, 1626-16 7619. A Christian Pilgrimage of 167020. Jerusalem, 1830-185021. A Christ ian Visi tor of 184222. Jerusalem in the 1850s23. Jerusalem in the 1860s24. Archaeological explorat ions, 1863-191425. The Jewish Quarter of the Old City in 186526. Road and Rail l inks to the Coast after 186827. Christian Pilgrimages around Jerusalem28. Jerusalem in the 1870s29. Jerusalem in the 1880s30. Jerusalem in the 1890s3 1 . Jerusalem, 1900-191432. The Growth of Jerusalem by 191433. Jerusalem and the First World War, 1914-191734. The Brit ish Conquest of Jerusalem, December 191735. Jerusalem under Brit ish Mil i tary Rule, 1917-192036. Jerusalem's Water Supply and Transport, 1918-1920


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38. Jerusalem and the Bri t ish Mandate, 1922-194839. The Jerusalem Zoning Plan, 19224 0 . The Jerusalem Town Planning Area, 19224 1 . The New Jewish Suburbs to the north and west of Jerusalem, 1921-19384 2 . Jerusalem, Zionism, and the Arab Revolt, 1920-193943. Jewish and Arab Immigration to Jerusalem, 1922-19394 4 . Jewish Proposals for Jerusalem, 193845. The Jews and Arabs of Jerusalem by 194546. Jerusalem in Str i fe, 1945-194847 . Jewish and Arab Suburbs in the Jerusalem area by 194748 . The United Nations' Plan for Jerusalem, 194749. The Battle for the Jerusalem Roads, 1-14 Apri l 194850 . The Battle for the Jerusalem Roads, 14 Apri l - 14 May 194851 . Jerusalem under Siege, 1947-194852 . Jerusalem at War, 194853. Lost Quarters and No-Man's Lands, 194954. Jerusalem: the Divided City, 1949-196755. Divided Jerusalem and the Holy Places, 1949-196756. Ramat Rahel: Pattern of Struggle and Achievement57. Jerusalem and the Six-Day War, June 196758. The United Nations' Changing Att i tude to Jerusalem since 194959. The Jerusalem Foundation and i ts work since 19666 0 . Parks and Gardens, 1967-19776 1 . Archaeological explorations since 19146 2 . Jerusalem's Water Supply since 192663. Jerusalem's Rulers, 587BC-1967AD64 . Jerusalem: Capital of the State of Israel since 194965. The Growth of Jerusalem, 1845-197566. Jerusalem since 1967


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Plate 2 The rebu i ld ing o f Jerusa lem under N ehem iah; a p r in t pub l i shed in 1705 "Co me and le t usbu i ld up the wa l l o f Je rusa lem" : N ehem iah, 2 ,17 . "A n d the ru le rs o f the peop le dw e l t a tJerusalem: the rest of the people a lso cast lo ts, to br ing one of ten to dwel l in Jerusalemthe ho l y c i t y " . , Nehemi ah , 11 ,1


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J E R U S A L E M FR OM A N CIE N T T IM E STO T H E D E S T R U C TIO N OF T H E S E CON D TE M PL E IN 70 A D

S a n h e d r i a \ ]T o m b s \

Jerusalem was an inhabi ted ci ty in the ea r ly bronze age ,wel l before 2500 BC. Later it was a Jebusi te for tre ss.Conquered by the Jews under David, i t became, from1000 BC, the polit ical and rel igious capital of the Jews.Here Solomon built the f irst Temple, and here the Jewswere sovereign for more than 600 years, unti l theBab ylonian conquest in 587 BC, whe n many Jews wereslaughtered , and others sent to exi le. Returning underthe patronage of Persia f i f ty years later, the Jews, underNehemiah, rebuilt their Temple, and restored the authorityof Jerusalem as th eir rel igious centre.

T o m b o fS i m o n t h e J u s t

M o u n t S c o p u s /T o m b s

H The Ophel Hil l , on which Davidbui lt h is for t i f ie d c i ty.& Jewish Tombs and Holy Placesin and around Jerusalem Proba ble course of theancient wal ls.

H e r o d ' s F a m i l yT o m b

J a s o n ' s T o m b

0L i

400 yards500metres

332 BC Alexander of Macedon conquers theCity, and confirms the Jewish privi legesgranted by the Persians.301 BC The Ptolemys of Egypt grant the Jewsautonomy in domest ic matters. Jewishsocial and rel igious l i fe f lou rish es.I98BC The Seleucid conquerors grant the Jewsthe right to l ive by ' the laws of theirfa thers ' .167 BC Antiochus IV suppresses Jewish rel ig iouspract ices, desecrates theTemple,confiscates its treasures, and convertsit into a Greek shrine.

T o m b o fH u l d a t h eP r o p h e t e s s

f \ , of Olives

M ou nt of / '-,O l i v e s C e m e t e r y ' :

Tomb of AbsalomWilderness

ofJudaea

I4I BC Jerusalem cap ture d by the Jew ishHasmoneans, remaining their capi ta l for78years. Jewish rel ig ious and commerciall ife f lour ishe d.63 BC The Roman con que st. 12,000 Jewsmassacred in Jerusalem. The pr iests,wh o refused to halt the service, werekil led while sti l l praying at the Altar.66 AD The revolt of the Jewish 'Z ea lots ' , whoheld Jerusalem for 4 years.70 AD Romans reoccupy Jerusalem. TheTempledestroyed and the city laid wa ste. ManyJews taken as captives to Rome.


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Plate 3 Two Jews f rom Buk hara , pho tographed i nJerusa lem in May 1950.D r i ven f rom the l andof Israel mo re tha n 2,0 00years before, the Jews ofBukhara ma in ta i ned t he i rre l ig ious t rad i t ions andcu l t u ra l i den t i t y : i n 1892a group of Bukh aranJews returned to Jerusal em (see Map 3 0) , f ou nd ing a v igorous and f lo ur i sh ing co m m un i t y t he re .

P la te 4 T i tu s , surpr ised b y Jewish so ld iers wh i le v iew ing the c i t y in 7 0 A D ; an engrav ing publ i shed in184 4. The Jewish his to r ian Josep hus wr ot e: "S o th is success of the Jews ' f i rs t at tack raisedthe i r min ds , and gave them i l l -ground ed hop e; and th is shor t inc l in at io n of fo r tu ne , on the i r


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T H E D IS P E R S A L O F T H E J E W S587 BC 70 A D Driven from Jerusalem by a succession of conquerors,the Jews sought refuge in distant regions, where theysett led and forme d compact and often prosperouscom mu nit ies. But however far they were fromJerusalem, they remembered her in their prayers.AralSea

S a m a r k a n d B u k h a r a

Je r us a le mB a b y l o n

'How shall we sing the Lord's songin a strange land ?If I forget thee 0 Jerusalemlet my right hand forget her cunning'. A R A B I A

Area of Jewish dispersal and settlementfol lowing the Babylonian conquestof 587 BC.Areas of Jewish dispersal and settlementafter the destruction of the Temple bythe Rom ans in 70 AD .

IndianOcean

0 400miles M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1977 600km

Map 2

T H E J E R U S A L E M R E G IO N A N D T H EJ E W I S H R E V O L TS A G A I NS T R O M E Towns in the Jerusalem region held by the Jewsduring their revolt against Rome, 66 -73 AD .

Area stil l held by the Jews during the f ift h year ofthe first revolt.

Twice the Jews revolted against Roman rule, andre-established Jewish sovereignty over Jerusa lem.But following their reconquest of Jerusalem in135 AD , the Rom ans decreed tha t no Jew beallowed into the City, under penalty of deat h. In250AD the Roman Xth Legion, which had beenthe main bastion of Roman rule since 70 AD , wasreplaced by a troo p of M oors loyal to Rome.

Mediterranean

Towns held by the Jews during theirsecond revolt, 132-1 35 AD .Area sti l l held by the Jews during thesecond year of the second revolt.Principal Roman roads by 132 AD.

10 miles10 km

M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 97 7


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Plate 5 The A l tar of the C opt ic Chapel in the Church of the Ho ly Sepu lchre; a ph oto gra ph taken inAu gu st 19 67 . The C hapel is one of several co ver in g a large ston e slab, said to be the very s toneon wh ic h the bod y of Jesus was la id af ter i t had been taken do w n f r o m th e Cross.

Plate 6 Russian p i lgr im s at the Monastery of the Cross; a ph oto gra ph take n in abo ut 1 90 0. The M o n astery was believ ed to be at the site of the tree used to ma ke the cross on w hi ch Jesus wascruc i f ied . F i r s t bu i l t by Georg ian monks in 300AD, i t was sacked by the Arabs in 1099 , bu trestored in 1644 by the King of Georg ia.


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J E R U S A L E M A N D C H R IS T IA N IT Y400yard

G o l g o t h a , s it e o ft h e C r u c i f i x i o n ;& t h e H o l yS e p u l c h r e

Sites associated with those me ntioned in the N ewTestament in connection w ith the l ife of Jesus, andsubsequently the foc al points of pilgrimage s fromthroughout the Christ ian wo rld.Probable city walls at the t ime of the cruc if ixion .The present (Ottoman) walls of the Old City.

Viri Gali laei

S i t e o f t h eA s c e n s i o n

P a t e r N o s t e r '

Wildernessof

Judaea

B e t h p h a g e

Hi l l o fE v i l C o u n s e lThe Potters 'Field;the Field of Blood,or Haceldama

A thousan d years af ter Jerusalem had becomeDavid's ca pita l, and at a t im e when the C ity wasunder Roman rule, a Jew, Jesus, proclaimed himselfto be the son of God, was cruci f ied, and wasbelieved by his fol lowers to have been resurrecte d.Following his cru cif ixio n, and the rapid spread ofChrist iani ty throughout the Roman Empire, thesites of his l i fe's work became the object of prayerand pi lgr image for Chr ist ians of al l den om inat ions. Ma rtin Gilbe rt 1977

Map 4C H R I S T IA N I T Y A N D T H E J E R U S A L E M R E G IO N

H o u s e o fC l e o p a s

A i n K a r e m

Fountain ofthe Apostles

Saint John inthe Wilderness Tomb o f - /& \ The Terebinth TreeSimeon fe) Ma ry's \ f MaryWell '

Hou se o f Z a c h a r i a s

JerusalemJordan valleyor 'Ghor'

P S a i n t S a b aS a i n tT h e o d o s i u s

Roman watersystem(5) Sai ntC h a r i t o n

* DeadSea

\ Sites in the Jerusalem region associatedg ^ t with the l i fe of Jesus. Sites associated with indiv idual Christ iansaints, martyrs and pilgrims in the600years between the crucif ixion andthe Arab conquest in 638 AD . 0 1 2 3 4 k m

Monastery ofthe Cross

Pool ofB e t h e s d a


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B Y Z A N T I N E J E R U S A L E M324 A D - 6 2 9 A DThe wal ls of Jerusalem in Byzantinet imes.The old Roman aqueduct, kept underrepair and con t inuing to br ing waterfrom Solom on's Pools in Byzantine times.Pr inc ipal bui ld ings constructedduring Byzantine rule.

In 324 A D J erusalem came under the rule, fromByzantium ( later Constant inople), of the Christ ianEmperor Cons tant ine. Two years later his motherHelena visi ted Jerusalem, where she' located'several Christ ian si tes and rel ics. The Temple ofVenus was destroyed, the C hurch of the HolySepulchre ded icated on the same site in 335, andthe Eleona Church bui l t on the Mo unt of Ol ives.

S t . S t e p h e n ' s C h u r c h& Tom b o f th e EmpressE u d o c i a (d ie d 4 6 0 A D ) tByzantineTombs

ByzantineTombs cjj>

M o n a s t e r y o ft h e S p o u d a e a n s

G e t h s e m a n e

E l e o n a. C h u r c h

T o m b o fS t . P e l a g i aI ( d i e d 4 5 7 A D )

\

Ba sil ic a of __M o u n t Z i o n E u d o c i a ' sC h u r c h

yards 30 030 0

Under Byzantine rule, several Roman famil ies sett led inthe City, many Christ ian churches were fou nd ed , andthe ci ty was rebui l t with in i ts wa l ls. Jews w ere forbiddento enter the ci ty except on the 9 th of Av, when they wereal lowed to lamen t the destruct ion of the Temple. TheEmpress Eudocia, who f i rst visi ted the ci ty in 438,al lowed the Jews to return . In 614 the Persians, havingconquered the ci ty, handed it over to the Jews. Butw ith the return of the Byza ntines in 629, the Jews wereagain expel led.

On the 15th September, annually, animmense number of peop le of d ifferentnations are used to meet in Jerusalem fo rthe purpose of commerce, and the streetsare so clogged with the dung of camels,horses, mules and oxen, that theybecome almost impassable'.B I S H O P A R C U L F OF G A U L6 8 0 A D


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W " C

Plate 9 SkenD inm ie8?1 f T h P ^ o " ' a n d h H a r a m {}heT e m P | e M ^ of t he Jews ) ; f ro m a ph o togra phi n i f i h , ,t Dome wh.ch was begun in 6 8 5 A D and com ple ted in 691 co l lapsed in0 1 6 . bu t w as r ec ons t r uc ted . T he p res en t 'go l den ' dom e , o f anod is ed a l u m i n i um , d a t f r om

late 10 The Tom b of the V i rg in , par t o f a Crusader chu rch in the K id ro n Va l ley , be low the Mo un t o fpub l s S h ed m 1 8 4 7 V 2*1%T*?' " " t abOUt Cand E""rs of*


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zJ E R U S A L E M A N D TH EC O N Q U E S T S O F I S L A MinrmnrThe boundary of the conquests ofIslam by 750 AD .

o Principal areas of Jewish settleme ntwithin the Islamic world by 750 AD .

In 638 AD the Mu sl im Arab armies conquered Jerus alem . TheJews, who had been driven from the city by the Byzantine rulersten years befo re, pet i t io ned for the return of 200 fam il ies, but asthe Christ ian Patr iarch opposed th is, only 70 fam il ies wereal lowed back. The Ommayads, ru l ing from Damascus, beganto bui ld the A l Aksa mos que on the Temple Mount in 660, andcom pleted th e Dom e of the Rock in 691. At that t ime, someJewish fami l ies were appo in ted guard ians o f the Mo unt .* W

C o r d o v a ' O' S A R D I N I A

\ P ;

o [ S a m a r k a n d |

fyBlack se* N ^ x J V \ tef^iv!

M e r v Ws Tabriz \ " V w u B a l k hN m N i s h a p u r| V | M f K a z v i n / 7% % G h a z n ij M o s u l ^ - ^ , R , a , y y H e r a t**!* Se*lyfJm* X-^ghdadH * R a m l a

la i m a K h a i b a r

A R A B I AFollowing the Ab bas id conquest in 750, Jerusalem ,ruled from Baghdad,decl ined rapidly in importanceand prosperi ty. This s i tua t ion worsened sti l l furtherafter the imposit ion of ru le by Egyptian dynast iesafter 878, when both the Jewish and Ch rist ianinhabitants were often subject to persecution.

D a y b u l

India nOc e a n

Cities ruled by Islam,which contained largeJewish commun ities. M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 97 7

Map 7 5"TH E CR U S A DE R M A R CH TO J E R U S A L E M'%%%. Mainareas from which the Crusaders came.

Area w ithin which more than 10,000 Jewswere murdered by C rusader b ands in 1096.General route of the Crusader arm ies.The furthest extent of the Crusader kingdoms.

At the ou tset of the crusades, k i l l ing of Jews took place on avast scale in the Rhinelan d, despite strong p rotests from localChurch leader s. In July 1099, when the Cru sade rs enteredJerusalem, Musl ims and Jews al ike were massacred, many ofthe Jews be ing k i lled in the i rsyna gogu es. The Crusadersmade Jerusa lem the cap i ta l o f the i r k ingdom .

C A L I F A T EO F0 D a m a s c u s B A G H D A D

C A L I F A T EO FD A M A S C U S



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P la te1 1 One o f t h ree hund redt i les brought to Jerusalem f r om Ana to l i a i na b o u t 1 7 0 0 A D b yA rmen ian p i l g r ims . Thet i les , in tended fo r thed e c o r a t i o n o f t h e C h u r c ho f t he Ho ly Sepu lch re ,were in fact used in theA r m e n i a n C h u r c h o f S t .James. O n ly th i r ty -sevensurv ived in 192 2, wh enthe Pro-Jerusalem Socie ty , es tab l ished by theBr i t i sh author i t ies , se tu p a w o r k s h o p f o rA rmen ian Chr i s t i ans torevive the a r t of ceram ict i l e - m a k i n g .

P late 12 The "Maccab ean P i lg r im age " o f 18 97. A group o f Br i t i sh Jews, inc lu d ing the nove l is t Israe lZang wi l l ( r ec l in ing f r on t r i gh t ) , v i s it ed Je rusa lem in Ap r i l 189 7 , f ou r mon th s be fo re the f i r s tZ io nis t Congress met a t Basle and adv ocate d th e re-establ ishm ent of a Jew ish State in Pales


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J E R U S A L E M : H OL Y C ITY ,C I T Y O F P IL G R I M A G E S IN C E 1000 BC^f Q-TuJ^

From the momen t of the establ ishm ent of the Kingdom of DavidinlOOOBC, and the bui ld ing of the Temple, Je rusalem becamethe focal point of Jewish pi lgr imag e. On each of the threeannual pi lgr im fest iv als, Passover, Tabernacles (S ucc ot) , andthe Feast of W eek s (Sh avu ot) , Jews f loc ke d to the City fromthe town s and vi l lages of the land of Israe l. In the1,900 yearsfol low ing the des truc t ion of the Temple in 70 AD , Jewishpi lgr ims cont inued to make the journey to the City f rom afar,desp i te the of te n enorm ous di f f icul t ies of the journey. Many,on arr ival , set t led in the City permanent ly.

"v

~JIn 40 AD the Je wish p hilosoph er,Phi lo of Alexa ndr ia, notedCountless multitudes from countless

cities come to the Temple at everyfestival, some by land, and othersby sea, from east and west andnorth and south'. T w e n t y - s i xyears later, in 66 AD, thehistor ian Josephus recordedthat the Roman Governor ofSyr ia had found the Jewishtown of Lydda empty 'for thewhole multitude were gone up toJerusalem to the feast of theTabernacles'.

500 kmA few of the towns f rom which Chr is t ian p i lg r imswent to Jerusalem in the1,400years from theByzant ine conquest in 325 A D unt i l 1700AD. Eachof the 21 town s ind icated here was one in which atleast one book was publ ished by a returning pi lgr imor traveller. Betw een 333 AD and 1500 AD more than550 books were written by such travellers.Some of the towns and regions from which Musl imscame to Jerusa lem after 637AD, many sett l ingpermanent ly in the City.

$ A few of the tow ns and regions fromwhich Jews went to Jerusalem dur ingthe 2,500 years from th e King dom ofDavid in lOOOBC to 1500AD . Since1500 such pilgrimag es have continued ,unti l the present day (see PLATE IUJ.

\

For the Mu sl ims, a f ter 6 37 AD ,Jerusalem was Al - Bai t a l - Mu qud das(th e Holy Ci ty) , and later Al Qud s a l-Shar i f ( the Holy and Noble Ci ty) ,their th i rd hol iest c i ty af ter Meccaand Medina.M art in Gi lbert 1977


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Plate 13 Isaac o f N or w ic h, a Jewish m one y len der , dep ic ted in a con tem po rary c ar to on be ing tor tu re dby the De v i l . Isaac was imp r ison ed by K ing J o h n in 1 2 1 0 and h is house con f isca ted . Twen tyyears earl ier, on 16 March 1 1 9 0 , the Jews o f Yo rk had co m m it t ed mass su ic ide ra ther thansubmit to the ant i -Jewish v io lence o f the mob.

P la te 14 The second expu ls ion o f the Jews f ro m Prague, 17 45 ; f ro m a con tem po rary pr in t . The Jewsof Prague f i rs t se t t led in the c i t y in 9 0 6 A D . In 13 89 mo re than 3 ,00 0 were k i l le d by the m ob ;


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J E R U S A L E M A N D TH E J E W IS H S E A R C HFOR A SECURE HAVEN 1000AD - 1600Mmiles 40 0km 50 0

In the six hundred years from 1000 AD to 1600, Jewswere frequently expelled, often in circumstances ofgreat bruta l i ty, from many of the States and cit ie sof Ch r ist ian Europe. Many sought refuge in Mus l imNo rth Afr ica (where they had to accept the s tatus ofseco nd-class ci t izens), in eastern Europe (wherefurther persecut ion and restr ict ions were notinfrequent) , and under the some what more tolerantrule of the Ottoman Turks, who had driven theMa mluks from Jerusalem in 1517, and whos e Empireextended by 1600 from the Caucasus to Algie rs.

rSome of the countr ies from whichthe Jews were expel led, at d i f ferentt im es betwee n 1012 AD and I495.Some of the towns from wh ich theJews were expel led, at d i f ferentt imes between 1010 AD and 1540.

Journey of theItal ian rabbi,O b a d i a h d iBer t inora,between I485andI488, going tosett le in Jerusalem,

Througho ut 600years of European perse cut ion,small numbers of Jews always sought to sett le inJerusalem, despi te the great distances involved,the hardships of the journey, and the u ncertaintyof a fr iendly welcome by the rul ing power.Dur ing the sixteen th century four synagogueswere bui l t in Jerusalem to accom mo date the growing Jew ish pop ula tion . By 1700 there were anest imated 300 Jew ish fami l ies, tot al l in g abo ut1;200 person s. But no cen tury was entirely freefrom problems: thus in I586 the Ottoma n ruler, orKadi , deprived the com mun ity of the use of i tssynago gues; in 1726 local M usl im A rabs seizedanother synagogue (which they held unt i l 1816)and bu rnt the sc rol ls of the law.

Some of the towns in Nor th Af r ica ,Italy, Dalmatia, Poland and the Ukrainein which many Jews foun d refuge.Some of the town s in the Ot to m anEmpire in which the Jews found refugeafte r 1517.The boundaries of the Ottoman Empireby 1600.


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C R U S A D E R J E R U S A L E MOnce Jerusalem had been conquered bythe Crusaders, as many as 10,000 Christianpilgrim s ma de the journey every year, somefrom as far away as Scandinavia, Muscovyand Portugal; and each year a small numberof these pilgrims decided to remainperman ently in the ci ty.

Fol lowing the C rusader entry into Jerusa lem in 1099,all the Jews in the City were either murdered, soldinto slavery in Europe, or ransomed to the Jewishcomm unity of Egypt. The Crusaders then broughtChrist ian Arab tr ibes from east of the r iver Jordan,and sett led them in the forme r Jewish Qua rter,between St. Stephen's Gate and the Gate ofJehoshafat .20 0 yards

200m

Even Crusader rule did not deter one Jew from tryingto sett le in Jerusa lem, for in 1140 the Sp an ish-b ornpoet and phi losopher Juda h Halevi set out forJerusalem v ia Cai ro. Acc ording to legend, he wasapproa ching the City W al ls when an Arab horsem an,leaving by one of th e Gates, trampled him to dea th.A s he lay dying he is said to have recited one of hisown poem s : "Z i o n , shall I not seek thee".

'Beautiful heights, joy of the world, city of agreat king. For you my soul yearns from thelands of the west.My pity collects and is roused w hen Iremem ber the past. Your story in exile, andyour Temple destroyed..../ shall cherish your stones and kiss them.And y our earth will be sweeter than honeyto my taste: J U D A H HALEV,c.1140

1099 The Crusadersconquer Jerusalem.M87 The Crusadersdriven fromJerusalem by Saladin.G e r m a i n ' sH o u s e

C a i a p h a sH o u s eS t Mary ofMt.Zion

S t . P e t e rin G a l l i c a n t u

Germain'sPool

Beaucaire Gate Zion Gate.C e m e t e r y

P o s t e r n

King 'sPa lace


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Plate 16 A Jewish fami ly in thei r house on M ou nt Z i o n . An engraving publ ished by W.H. Bar t le t t in1 8 4 4 . Descr ib ing the head of the fami ly , sa id to be " the weal th iest Jew in Jerusalem", Bar t le t t wr ot e: "H is career is rem arka ble; in h is y o ut h he had been a wan derer unde r th e 'b u rn ing t rop ics , as we l l as in England and in Spa in, and by var ious means having acc um ulate da sum su f f i c ien t to render h im the envy of h is po or abject br et hr en , he repai red to the c i tyof h is fa thers. "

Plate 17 Sir Moses and Lady M on -tef iore enter ing Jerusalem in 1839; a sketchf r om M on t e f i o r e ' s a l bum .Born i n 1784, Monte-f iore ret i red f rom business as a London stockbrok er in 18 24 , and f i rs tvisi ted Palest ine threeyears later . A noted p h i l anthropist , he d ied at theage of 100 having madeseven visi ts to Jerusalem.He in i t ia ted severa l worksof char i ty and of Jewishsel f - imp rove me nt in Jerusa lem, i nc lud ing theJewish Hospital (see Plate


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T H E R E T U R N OF TH E J E W S T O J E R U S A L E M 1200 w-1841In I2I0, fol lowing the defeat of the Crusaders,groups of Jews began to return to Jerus alem .He nceforth , w itho ut inte rrup tion, and in everydecade, indiv idual Jews, and groups of Jews,reached the ci ty from Europe and the M ahgre b,form ing an ever- growing comm unity. Drivenout by the Tar tar invasion o f I244, they ha dreturned by I250. Three times a day the Jewsrepeated in their prayers: "An d to JerusalemThy city m ayest thou return in mercy, anddw ell in i ts midst as Thou hast spoken , andrebuild it soon, in our days, for evermore

ZAre asfr om which some 300 Rabbis travel ledto Jerusalem, Acre and Ramla in 1210 A D ,to strengthen the Jewish communit iesweakened by the C rusader massacres andexpulsions. Some of the regions, and a few of the towns ,from which indiv idual Jews are known tohave travelled to Jerusalem after 1267,sett l in g perma nently, and whose fam il iesformed, by 1841, the largest singlecom m unity in Jerusalem itself .

' Wha t shall I say of this land? Great is its desolation.The more holy the place, the greater the desolation.Jerusalem is the most desolate of all.... The onlyJewish residents are two brothers, dyers by trade.There the ten men meet (forprayer) and on S abbathhold service at their house The city has no master,and he that wishes may take possession of the ruins.We have procured, from Shechem, Scrolls of the Law,which ha d been carried thither from Jerusalem at thetime of the Tartar invasion. Thus we shall organize asynago gue, and shall be able to pray here. Men flockfrom Dama scus, Aleppo, and from all parts toJerusalem to behold the Place of the Sanctuary, and tomourn over it. May you, my son and your brothers, andthe whole of our family, see the salvation of Jerusalem '.N A H M A N I D E S , L E T T E R T O H I S S O N , 1267

Napoleon 's march f rom Egypt to Acre,where he was defea ted by the Br i t ish in1799. Acc ord in g to h is o f f ic ia l news -paper, th e 'M on i te ur ' , one of his a imswas ' to give back to the Jews the irJe rusa lem' ('pour rendre aux juifs leurJ e rus a lem ' ) .

x

Bonaparte has caused a proclamation to beissued, in which he invites all the Jews of Asiaand Africa to come and range themselves underhis flags, in order to re establish Jerusalem asof old'.R E P O R T I N T H E ' M O N I T E U R ' 1799


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Plate 18 Th e Damascus Ga te; aphotograph taken i n1896. One o f t he ma inent rances to Jerusalemf r om Rom an t i m es , t h i s ,the present g ate, wasbu i l t by Su l tan Su le imanin 1537. The p innacleson the Ga te , wh ich hada lmost en t i r e l y d i s i n te grated b y 19 17 as a resul to f O t tom an neg lec t , wererestored to Sul tan Sule i man's or ig inal p lan in1 9 2 1 , by the Br i t i shM anda t e Depa r t m en t o fA n t i q u i t i e s .

P la te 19 The Ja f fa G ate ; a pho tograp h taken i n abo ut 191 4. The c lock to w er , bu i l t by the Turk s in1 9 0 7 , was removed by the Br i t i sh Mandate au thor i t i es i n 1924. Bo th the roo fed bu i l d ing on


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M A M L U K A N D O TT O M A N J E R U S A L E M yards 30 00 metres 200Following the f inal defeat of th e C rusad ers in 1244,Mu sl im rule returned to Jerusalem, f i rst under theMam lukso f Egypt ( I2 50 - 15 IT), and then underthe O ttom an Tu rks (1517 -1917). Bo th Christian sand Jews were subjected to cont inual ind igni t ies:a tannery was built next to the Church of theHoly Sepulchre, and a slaughterhouse next to theBen Zakkai synagogue 'so that an evil smell shouldever plague the inf idels ' .

lH Ci ty Ga tes: Mamluk names in i ta l ics ,Ot toman names in whi tee . g . B2^3s33

The C ity wal ls, as restored andstrengthened by Sul tan Suleimanbetwee n 1539 and 1542.Pr incipal bui ld ings co nstructed du r ingMamluk rule.Pr incipal bui ld ings con structed between1517 and 1840 , du ring th e f irst 500years of Ottoman rule.The Via Dolorosa, centre of Christianpi lgr image.

Gate of the Flowers

Gate of the Column

Mihrab DaoudGate

In 1898 a breach wasmad e in the wa l l bes idethe Ja f f a Ga te , toenab le the GermanE m p e r o r , W i l h e l m l l ,to enter the Ci ty int r i um ph. S ince 1898t h i s ' b r e a c h ' h a s b e e nthe m ain ent rance to theOld Ci ty .

of Hinnom1244 The Kharezm ian Tartars sack Jerusalem ,massacr ing the Christ ians, and ki l l ing many

Jews. Some Jews escaped to Nab lus,and sett led there.1368 Musl ims murder twelve monks on MountZion, and harass thos e wh o remain.1428 W he n G erman Je ws try to buy a site fo rworsh ip on Mount Zion , the Chr is t ians o fthe City protest to the Pope, who asked theItal ian republics not to take any Jews onboard ships going to the Holy La nd.

1440 Mamluks impose a heavy annual tax onal l Jews. Many Jewish craf tsm en, whocould not afford to pay, forced to leavethe City.1460 Muslims destroy the Chapel of the HolySpir i t on Mount Zion.1551 Franciscans driven from their Church onMount Zion.1775 Otto ma n Turks impose a hea d-tax on al l Jews.1780 Monks of the Monastery of the Crossmassacred by Arab m arauders.

Church ofthe Flagellation


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Plate 20 " A Jewish Cot ton-C leane r , separat ing seeds f r o m co t to n by the anc ient process of bo win g i t " .Both the p ic ture and the capt ion are f rom Colonel Wi lson 's Picturesque Palestine, pub l i shedin London in 1878 .

"Here, then, among the ruins of Zion, stil l l ingers a remnant of thechosen peop le but how changed their circumstances! Instead of the'mighty man, and the man of war, the judge, and the prophet, and theprudent, and the ancient, the captain of fifty, and the honourable man,and the counse llor, and the cunning artificier, and the eloquent orator/we see a despised body, chiefly of exiles, crouching under generaldislike and persecution; yet with inflexible tenac ity clinging to the spotwhich recalls their past greatness, and inspires visionary hopes of futuredomination."

W . H . B A R T L E T T , 1 84 4


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TH E J E W S OF J E R U S A L E MU N DE R O T T O M A N R U L E 1517-1831z_During the seventeenth and eighteenth centurie s, manyJerusalem Jews, scholars and rabbis,travel led fromJerusalem to teach in Jewish communit ies elsewhere, andalso to seek alms and chari ty for the poorer members oftheir own com mu nity. There was also a regular movement of famil ies, in both directions, between Jerusalemand several towns of the eastern Me diterranean region.

Towns and regions to whichJerusalem Jews are known tohave travelled in search of alm s,or as teachers and scholars.Towns f rom which Jewsfrequently moved to Jerusalem,or in wh ich Jews from Jerusalemoften sett led.

G i b r a l t a r

B e l g r a d e

Adr ianop le

Sea

* Brussaf js Smyrna A l e p p o

M e kn e s Malta SeaDamascus^

J e r u s a l e m !A l e x a n d r i a

Cairo"0 300 milesi i i ii i i i i0 400km

TH E J E W I S H C O M M U N I TY IN J E R U S A L E M1586 Turks refuse Jews use of the Ramban synagogue.1625 Under harsh taxation of Ibn Faruk, Jerusalem'sJews seek alms througho ut eastern Europe.1720 Arabs seize the Ashkenazi synagogue, and burnthe scrol ls of the Law. The synagogu e was notreturned to the Jewishcommunity unti l 1816.1787 The roof of ano ther syn agog ue falls in under aheavy we ight of snow. The Turks refuse forseveral years to allow the roof tobe repaired.1812 Je ws f lee from Safed to Jerusalem, fol lo win gan epidemic.

The greatest part o f the Jews here are poor,as they have no opportunity of trafficking; forwithout it they cannot thrive in any part of theworld. They have no other income here thanthey can get from the Pilgrims of their nation,who com e far and wide from all places to paytheir respects to the seat of their forefathers.Their Rabbi has large revenues from hisbrethren througho ut the whole world, ofwhich the Turks draw the greatest part; forJews as well as Christians must constantlybring offerings to their altars, if they will kisstheir holy places in peace', HASSELQUIST,

' V O Y A G E S A N D T R A V E L S ' 1 766

SafedTiberiasAcre


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Plate 21 A map of Jeru salem ,f rom IMath Crouch 's bookTwo Journeys to Jerusalem, pub l i shed in Londonin 1 71 9. Crou ch was anEng l i sh Chr is t ian p i lg r im,who v is i ted the C i ty in1 6 6 9 .

'Jerusalem is the centre around which the Jew builds in airy dreamsthe mansions of his future greatness. Thither he returns from Spa in,Portugal, Germany, Barbary, etc., after all his toilings and all hisstruggles up the steps of life, to walk the streets of his own happyZion/H A IM M E R D U P U I S T H E H O L Y P L A C E S ' 18 5 6


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NorthSe aS SA J E W I S H J O U R NE Y TO J E R U S A L E M , 1479

From the moment of the re-establishment ofMuslim rule in 1260, many individual Jews fromEurope, North Africa, and the east travelled toJerusalem in order to settle there permanently.In 1479 two Christian pilgrims, Siebald Rieterand Johann Tucker, wrote down details of theroute taken by one such Jewish settler, who hadtravelled more than 2,000 miles to reachJerusalem. This map illustrates the route whichhe described to them, and shows, where hegave them, the number of days taken in eachof the stages of his journey.

A R M E N I A

P E R S I A

Here be also some Jewes, yet inherit they no partof the land, but in their own e country do live asaliens. A people scattered throughout the wholeworld, and hated by those among st w hom theylive; yet suffred, as a necessary mischiefe:subject to all wrongs and contumelies, which theysupport with an invincible patience. Many of themhave I seene abused, some of them beaten; yetnever saw I Jew with an angry countenance. Theycan subject themselves unto times, and to whatsoever may advance their profit. In genera/1 theyare wordly wise, and thrive wheresoeve r they setfooting. The Turke imployes them in receipt ofcustomes, which they by their policies haveinhanced; and in buying and selling with theChristian : being himselfe in that kind a foole andeasily coozened. They are men of indifferentstatures, and the best complexions'.

G E O R G E S A N D Y S'A R E L A T I O N OF A J O U R N E Y B E G U N IN A N . D O M : 16 10 '

300 miles300 km

Route taken by a Jew from Nuremburg,seeking to settle in Jerusalem, 1479.Stopping places mentioned by theChristian pilgrims Rieter and Tucker.Time taken for each of the last fivestages of the journey.

A R A B I A

JerusalemGazalexandria

D a m a s c u sS Y R I A

A N A T O L I A

Constantinople

A k k e r m a n

K h o t i n

L e m b e r gCracow

Lubl inN u r e m b u r gB O H E M I AP o z n a n

P O L A N DBerlinDanzig

TEUTONICKNIGHTSRiga


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Plate 22 The Wa i l ing Wal l in 18 94 , ph otog raph ed by Ro be r t Bain


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T H E ' W A I L I N G W A L L ' U N D E RO TT O M A N R U LE 1517 - 1917Fol lowing the destruct ion of the Temple by theRoma ns, Jews cont inued to v is i t that sect ion of thewe stern wal l of the Temple Mo unt which remainedintact and exposed, to lament the destruct ion of theTemple.and to pray for i t to be rebu i l t . A synagoguewas con structe d at the wal l shor t ly before theCrusader period . W it h the return of the Jews to theCity after the C rusad es, the western wal l served asJudaism's hol iest shr ine, and under Ot toman ru le,Jew ish prayers at the wa l l were al lowed as regulart ice.

The Jews of Jerusalem have obtainedpermission to assem ble on this spot to lamen tover the desolation o f their p eople, and toimplore the restoration of the scene of theirformer glory, chanting in mournful melody,not unming/ed with a dawn of hope:"Lord, build - Lord build -Build Thy house speedily.In haste I in haste I E ven in our days.Build Thy house speedily ".

W . H . B A R T L E T TI 85I

Dom e o f t he Rock

0 metres 50

1877 The Muft i of Jerusalem considers the possibleacceptance of a Jewish offer to buy the quarter, and torehouse the inhabitants elsewhere in better housing. Buta dispute within the Jewish community prevented theagreement being signed.1915 TheTurkish Governor of Jerusalem indicates hispossible wi l lingness to sel l the quarter to the Jews for20,000, to rehouse the thirty or so families elsewhere,to demolish the houses, and make a public garden.But the Zionists lacked suff ic ient funds to make thepurchase. Immediately after the Six -Da y war of June 1967,the quarter was demolished by the Israeli Government.

THE TEMPLEM O U N T

orHARAM AL SHARIF(THE HOLY SANCTUARY)

Gate of theChain

Minaret ofthe Chain

Gate of theCottonMerchants

Dome of the ChainTomb of MohammedAli of IndiaTomb of King H usseinIbnAl i

Mosque of theMoghrabinsA lAksaMosque

Ruinsactus andrough scrublano

Dung Gate


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e 24 A po r t r a i t o f Sabbata i Z ev i , sketched by an eye-w i tness in Sy r ia , and f i rs t pub l ished in A ms terdam in 1669 . Zev i had passed th ro ugh A le pp o in 1665 , wh en he to l d the rabb i the re , So lo m onLan iado (as Lan iado w r o t e to tw o rabb is in Ku rd is tan ) o f G od 's wo rds to h i m : "T h ou a r t thesav iour o f Is rae l , the mess iah, the son o f Da v id , the ann o in ted o f the G od o f Ja cob , and th ouar t dest ined to redeem Israe l , to gather i t f r o m the fo ur corners o f the ear th to Jer usa lem ".Zev i ' s movem ent ga ined g rea t imp e tus f r om the Ch m ie ln ic k i massacres in the Ukra ine , when


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J E R U S A L E M A N D T H E M E S S I A N ICID E A L 4 0 0 A D - 1740y According to Jewish t radi t ion , the Me ssiah, or'Ano in ted ' , has yet to appear. W he n he does so,the Jews , l iving and dead, wil l assemb le in Jerusalemfrom all over the wor ld . This tradi t ion f lourished intimes of persecution, uncertainty or extreme poverty,when many Jews turned for rel ief to' fa lse ' Me ssiah swho offered to br ing them back to Jerusalem.In many cases, few detai ls survive a bout thes e men ;in some cases even the ir names are un kno wn .

F e z1127 Tow ns and regions from which individual Jews,claiming to be the Messiah, sought to lead theirfo l lowers to Je rusalem, wi th dates.


0 200milesi i i i 1400kmMap 17 z t>S A B BA T A I Z E V I, M E S S I A N I S M , A N DJ E R U S A L E M 1 6 2 6 - 1 6 7 6"F 1 > vThe descendants of some of Zevi's fol lo we rs, th e m - M 1selves conve rted to Islam, but st i l l pract ising Judaism,l ived on at S alonica unt i l they were depo rted to concen trat ion cam ps by the Nazis in1943, and murdered.

Sab batai Zevi was born in Smyrna in 1626. InI662, wh ile he was l iving in Jerusalem, theJewishcom mun i ty there, of som el ,00 0 people, senthim to Egypt to seek alms on their behalf,fol lowing the imposit ion by the Turks of a taxwh ich fel l part icular ly heavi ly on Jews. Zevireturned to Jerusalem in 1665, where hedeclared himself to be the Messiah. Jewsthro ug ho ut Europe acce pted his claim , believingtha t during I666 he wo uld be crow ned inJerusalem as 'King of the W orld ' .Imprisoned by the T urks at Adria nop le in 1666,Zevi accepted conversion to Islam, underduress.He died in exile at Du lcign o in 1676.


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Plate 25 The Chu rch o f the H oly S epulch re , one o f the pr in ts in Mic h ie l Mi loco 's p i lg r im Gu ide. TheChurch 's h is tor y had been a t ro ub led on e: bu i l t b y St He lena in 33 3A D , it was des troye d bythe Persians in 6 14 , res tored a few years la ter by M odestus, burn ed by Iks hh id , a Tu rk is h ru lero f Eg ypt , in 93 4; burne d by the Fat im i tes in 9 69 ; dem ol ished by the Druse leader E l Ha k im B iAm r A l la h in 10 10, res tored by Michae l IV in 10 37 , and by Constan t ine Mo nom ach in 104 8,p i l laged by the Se l juk Tu rks in 1 077 , in par t recon struc ted by the Crusaders f ro m 1140 to 114 9,


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A C H R I S T I A N PIL G R IM A G E OF 1670 A pilgrim route to Jerusalem, as described in a pilgrim

Guide of I670, published in Venice by Michiel Miloco.Journeys beyond Jerusalem, as described in the Guide.

Places visited en route to Jerusalem, and beyond it. I Places to be visited during the course of the pilgrims'

travels in the Holy Land.() The Capital city of the Ottoman Empire, I5I7-1920.

And having heard by some means or other in times past, very muchdiscourse of the beauty and the pleasant situation of that City; of thesweet temper of the inhabitants, and the many goodly things thatwere to be seen and enjoyed there; he was instantly prepossesse dwith a strong desire to remove his feet thither.When he did ea t or drink Jerusalem would still be in his mouth,when he was in Company, Jerusalem stole away his heart from him;Nay, in his very sleep it would stay away, but he was wont to dreamfine things of Jerusalem'. A N ENGLISH PILGRIM,WRITING IN I684

V e n i c e

C o n s t a n t i n o p l e

^ !P~'R E T E

With the establishment of Ottomanrule in I5I/, Christian pilgrimages toJerusalem increased in frequency.At Easter, pilgrims were said todouble the City's population. Thismap illustrates a pilgrimage fromVenice in I670.

'Jerusalem is inhabited by someChristians, (who make a great benefit ofshewing the Sepulchre of Christ) and ofLate Years also by Moors, Arabians,Greeks, Latines, Turks, Jews; nay, Imay say, with People of all Nations'.N A T H C R O U C H , AN E N G L I S HP IL G R I M W R I T I N G IN I 7 I 9 .

200 miles300km

Sea8 ' a

\ %. S o l d i e r s ' C l u bP a l e s t i n e L i n e s o f C o m m u n i c a t i o nO r d n a n c e S t o r e s

_ M o t o r T r a n s p o r t L o r r i e s( ) M i l i t a r yB a k e r y M o t o r T r a n s p o r tT r a c t o r s

0 yards 4000 metres 400

D e s o r p sM i l i t a r y ( )C a m p

B e t h l e h e m R o a dw a t e r i n g a r e a

+ R o y a l A i rF o r c eL a n d i n gG r o u n d Bri t ish mil i tary camps andinstallations, 1918.

Ma r t i n G i l be r t 1977 z

'The Jewish problem, as seen in Je rusalem,is one of living interest, as there thevisitor w ill see crowded into a few squaremiles samples, as it were, of that scattered race from all the lands w hence theyhave been driven, all drawn to theirancient Zion. He will realize, as probablyhe can never do in any other place, thatstirring of the whole race Zionwardswhich seem s to be on the eve of fulfilment,a consum mation of the dreams of Jewishidealists through the long centuries oftheir dispersion'.

D R E .W . M A S T E R M A N' T H E D E L I V E R A N C E OF J E R U S A L E M '1918


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Pla te 55 The an ima l m arke t a t the Su l tan 's Poo l , a pho togra ph taken in 1 910 . The p o o l , f o r m e r l y aR o m a n , Byzant ine , Crusader , and Ot toman wate r reservo i r , had long s ince been unab le to servethe C i ty ' s needs. Abo ve i t ( le f t ) is the Br i t ish Oph tha lm ic Ho sp i ta l , and ( r igh t ) , the M onte f io reHouses o f S he l te r , 'Mis hke not Sha anan im' . S ince 1976 the P oo l has been tu rned in to a pub l icgarden , par t o f The Mi tche l l Garden (see Map 60) ,

P la te 56 A t ra in a r r ives a t Ja f fa Sta t ion in 19 18 , whe n the ra i lway was s t i l l na r row gauge, b r ing in g w i thi t so ld ie rs o f the Jewish B a t ta l io n o f the Br i t ish fo rces , on the i r way to Jerusa lem and the f ro n tl ine . They were the f i rs t Jewish mi l i ta ry fo rce to serve in Pa lest ine s ince Roman t imes. Manymore were recru i ted in Jerusa lem.


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aJ E R U S A L E M 'S W A T E R S U PPL Y & T R A N S P O R T 1918 - 1920One of the first acts of the Brit ish m ilitaryauth ori t ies was to br ing piped water to th ecity from the so uth . Under the Turks mostof the c i ty 's water had come from rain-watercisterns, or been brought into the City fromthe well at Ain Rogel in unhygienic goatskinsStart ing on 18 June I9I8, the Bri t is h providedthe f i rst substant ia l and uninterrupted watersupply since the Romans had brought waterfrom the south by aqueduct.

1500yardslOOOmetres

Mo torable roads in 1918.= = Special roads for army vehic les.-+i-4- The 1892 railway to the coa st, relaidand widened by the Brit ish in 1918.> ' ' Narrow gauge railwa y, built by theBri t ish for tak ing m il i tary supplies toBira, the front-l ine during 1918,twelve miles north of Jerusalem .

Ancient Roman aqueduct used spasmodically fromRoman to Otto m an tim es, but defunct by 1820.

""Turkish pipe-line, providing 40,000 gallons ofwa ter a day in 1914." W a te r p ipe- l ines la id by the Br i t ish in I9 I8 f romSolomon's Pools, with the main distr ibut ionlines from the Romema Re servoir, providing280,000 gallons of water a day.

M ar t in Gi lb er t 1977


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Pla te 57 M ou n t Scopus i n 1939 show ing the B r i t i sh M i l i t a ry Cemete ry (cen t re fo re g rou nd) , t he Had-assah Hos pi ta l ( le f t ) , par t o f the Heb rew Un ivers i ty ( r ight ) an d, appear ing be h ind the Heb rewUn i ve rs i t y bu i l d i n g , t he top o f t he Aug us ta -V i c to r i a towe r .

1 9 5 0 : an Is rae l i convoy sets o f f in the ear ly morn ing f rom the Mandelbaum Gate on i ts for t n ight l y journey across Jordanian-he ld Jerusa lem to the Is rae l i enc lave on Mount Scopus .


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M O U N T S C O P U S 1918-1968 At the t ime of the Bri t ish conquest of Jerusalemin December 1917, the two princ ipal b uildings onlount Scopu s, above the Musl im Arab vil lage ofIsawiya, were the Augu sta Victo r ia pi lgr im s'hospice foun ded by the German Kaiser in 1898,and the private house of an English lawy er,Sir John Gray- Hil l , which had been bought bythe Zionists in 1908 for a future HebrewUniversity. The University was opene d, in thepresence of A .J . Balfour.on 1 Ap ril 1925. TheHadassah Medical Centre was opened in 1938,and the Hadassah University Hosp ital in 1939.

I925 Arab s prote st against the openingof the Hebrew University,boycott ing the ceremony.I938 Five Hebrew Univers ity stu de nts ,and one professor, kil led inJerusalem during Arab r iotsaga inst Jewish immigra t ion .1948 Seventy-eight Jewish doctors,professors, nurses and studentsmurdered by the Arabs whiledriving in convoy to theHadassah hospita l : s i te shown Q

800 metre (2, 400 feet)con tour l ine.W Build ings on Mo unt Scopus in useby1939.

The Mo unt Scopus enclave, under Israelisovereignty from 1949 to 1967.Building s co nst ruc ted betw een 1967 and 1977,when allJerusalem was under Israeli sovereignty.

P Arab vil lage s, and Ara b houses,by 1977. M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 97 7


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Plate 59 A Z epp el in f li es over the ne wly b u i l t K ing D av id H ote l . Th e f i rs t Zep pel in f lew over Jerusa lemon 26 March 1 929 , whe n i t parachuted mai lbags w i th le t ters f ro m G erm any . One of the bagswas never fou nd , and had proba bly been s to len. As a resu l t , fo r fu tu re f l i g h ts , a han dbi l l wasd i s t r i bu ted w h i ch s ta ted : "K ee p you r eye on the Zepp e l i n ! Toda y the Zep pe l i n w i l l pass ove rPalest ine. The Ze pp el in w i l l d ro p mai l -bags . . . wh oeve r brings an undam aged bag w i l l get therewa rd of 2 5 shi l lings . . . "

Plate 60 The Jerusa lem Rai lway S tat ion dur in g the Man date. W i th changes a t Lydd a Jun c t ion , one cou ldt rave l by t r a in n ot on ly to Te l Av iv and H ai fa , bu t a lso to bo th C ai ro and Damascus .


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J E R U S A L E M A N D TH E B R IT IS HM A N D A T E 1 9 2 2 - 1 9 4 8A Bri t ish c iv i l adm inistrat ion was set up in Jerusalem on1 July 1920, and con tinue d until 14 May 1948. The Brit ishLeague of Nations Mandate came into effect in 1922.Under B ri t ish ru le, both Jewish and Arab imm igrat ion tothe City f lour ishe d: an extra 40,000 Jews and 20,000Arabs sett led in the city b etween 1931 and 1944. From1921 the Jew ish N ational Cou ncil, a nd from 1929 theJewish Agency, both based in Jerusalem, w orked with inthe terms of the Bri t ish Mandate to establ ish a JewishNationa l Home in Palestine, and many new Jewishinst i tut ions were founded in the c i ty. 75 % of the City 'staxpayers were Jews, but the City had only ArabMa yors from 1920 until 1944. A M uslim SupremeCou ncil was established in 1921, a H igher ArabCommittee in I936.

B New buildings and institu tes esta blish ed during the Bri t ish Mandate, withdate of opening.Other buildings of the Mandate period.


E n g l i s h S p o r t sC l u b

During an earthquake in I927, the Church ofthe Holy Sepulchre , t h e A l Ak sa mosque,and the Augusta Victor ia Hospice wereal l badly dam aged. Further earthquak edama ge was caused in I936. In I938Mussolini gave a gift of Carrara marble fornew columns in Al Ak sa , of which the centralcei l ing, eastern transept and stone f lo orwere also replace d. In I934 ad equa tewater supplies to the City were ensured bythe building of a water pipeline from theabundant spr ings a t Rasa l -Ayn, in thecoastal p la in,tothe Romema Reservoir .


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Plate 61 M i lk Del i very in the Old C i ty ; apho tog raph taken i n the m id -19205.

P la te 62 L i gh t I nd us t ry : a Jew i sh wo rksh op , pho tog ra phed by Jose f Zwe ig on 23 March 1926 .


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\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\V\\V\\\\\\\\^T HE JER U SA L E M ZONING PL A N 1922 0 yards 500i i i i i ii i i i i0 metres 400

\ Site of proposedh~ HebrewA University

MountScopus

| G o v e r n m e n t | | | | ^

H o s p i t a l \ \ \ / A , \ \ \ \ Y W W / J ^i lway Stations iv

The real work is, after all, not thedrawing of the city plan on paper,nor the description of it in a book,nor the comments on it in anoffice file, nor even the making apicture of it for the walls of theRoyal Academy. The real work isto administer it intelligently andtowards the shaping of a more orless ideal end. The only test ofthis is the beauty and comelinessof the city itself. C.R.ASHBEE,C I V IC A D V I S E R , J E R U S A L E M , 1 92 0- 19 22

i ^ J i i l i l l i ^ r t -

* 6

S i l w a n

In 1921 the Bri t ish c iv i lau thor i t ies es tab l ished aJerusalem Town PlanningCommission, under theauthority of the PalestineTown Planning Ordinance.The Comm ittee producedits draft zoning plan in 1922.

Proposed Park System, entirely reservedfor parks and open spaces.Jewish tombs, many of them ancientrock tomb s, w hich were to be preservedas part of the Park System.Musl im cemeter ies, l ikewise to bepreserved with in the Park System.

\ ^ \ \ Proposed residentia l ana business areas.\^>\\ Proposed industr ia l , workshop andfactory zones.

Proposed Jewish Garden City of T alpiot.

< *

0 0

M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 977


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Plate 63 The s i te chosen fo r Boneh B ay i t Garden C i ty , la ter Bet Ha kere m. A pho togr aph taken in 192 2.

P la te 64 Bet Hakere m Garden C i ty ; a pho togr aph taken in May 19 37.


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T H E J E R U S A L E M T O W N P L A N NIN G A R E A 1922Under the influence of the Brit ishGovernor of Jeru sale m, RonaldStorrs, and the newly establ ishedPro-Jerusalem Society, i t wasdecided in 1921 to establish a newand extended ci ty boundary forJerusa lem.

0 yardsI 1 _I , ,0 metres 800

Isawiya

f/>e coastS h a r a f a t

# ^ Boundary of the Jerusalem/ \ Tow n Planning Are a, 1922.The 'Holy C i ty 'o r O ld C i ty .Principal bui l t -up areas outsidethe city w alls by the end of 1921.Exist ing Arab vi l lages w ith inthe Town Planning Area.

Exist ing Arab vi l lages beyond the TownPlanning Area.i j Area with in which bui ld ing permission had=Jj been granted for new Jewish, Arab, and Brit ishmunicipal bui ld ings.

Proposed Jewish Garden Cities, whose generallay- out w as approved by the JerusalemTown Planning Com mission during 1922.M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 97 7


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Plate 65 Bui ld ing a sub urb: Jewish bu i ld in g-w ork ers ' tents on the western outsk i r ts o f Jerusa lem in1 9 2 1 .

Plate 66 A suburb in be in g: Rehav ia in 1937 .


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TH E NE W J E W IS H S U BU R BS TO TH E N OR T HA N D W E S T OF J E R U S A L E M 1921 - 1938 0 800yards iir-iiri0 600mto je / .

S a n h e d r i y a

As a result of expulsion and disease during theF irst W or ld Wa r, the Jewish popu la t ion o fJerusalem fell from more than 45,000 in 1914 tounde r 27 ,000 in 1918. By 1931 it had rise n ag ai n,to more than 51,000, and by 1939 it had reached77,000 (out of a tota l of 126,000). The two mainJewish imm igrant waves between the two Europeanwars were tho se from Russia and Eastern Europe (I9I8I925) and from Germany and Po land ( I933 - I939 ) .Between I92I and I939 nearly forty new residentialquarters were bui l t , mostly to the west and no rthof Jerusalem, and all of them on previouslyuninhabited, barren and stony land.

A r n o n a

R a m a tR a h e l



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J E R U S A L E M , Z I O N I S M A N D T H EARAB REVOLT 1920-1940Between 1920 and 1940 Arab hostil i ty towards Jewishimm igrat ion, and towards the Jewish presence inJerusalem (a majority presence since the 1860s) wasinflam ed by agita tors and fan atic s, and led to manyviolent a ttac ks on individual Jew s. Five Jews werekilled in 1920, six in 1929, twe lve in 1936, nine in 1937,twelve in 1938. Th roug hou t 1936 the Jewish Agen cyprevented a small group of extremist Jews fromcarrying out repris als, but in 1937 these extre m ists,act in g alone, k i l led 15 Arab s, and in I938 a furt he r ten.During the same period , I00 Arabs were k i l led byBri t ish troops who were defending both Bri t ish andJewish l ives and property in the Jerusalem reg ion.

^ Built up areas of Jerus alem by' 1938.- Jewish bus routes.- Arab bus routes.| Jewish suburb s attack ed andloo ted in 1929; nearly 4,000 Jews

were force d to leave their homes.Wi'MrHBl

Isawiya

MountScopus

y/ U n i v e r s i t y

BayitVe-Gan

Survx Bah i r

M e k o rH a y i m

A r n o n a

1 0 0 0 y a r d s0 i1000 met res

O ArabI Remem ber that the Jew is your strongest enemyand the enemy of your ancestors since olden times. Do notbe misled by his tricks for it is he who tortured Christ,peace be upon him, and poisoned Mohamm ed, peace andworship be with him. It is he who now endeavours toslaughter you as he did yesterday Be aware that the bestway to save yourself and your Fatherland from the grasp ofthe foreign intruder and greedy Jew is to boycott him.Therefore boycott him and support the industry of yourFat her land and God '.

T H E J E R U S A L E M A R A B S T U D E N T SL E A F L E T , 11 S E P T E M B E R 1 92 9 M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 97 7

fiTOIiffiHIT H E W A I L I N G W A L L

n I929, after Arab attac ks on individual J ews praying at the W al l , and a Jewish dem onstra t ion atthe Wall with the Zionist f lag and anthem, acrowd of 2,000 Muslim Arabs destroyed prayerbooks at the W al l , injured the beadle, andattacked Jews throu ghou t the c i ty, k i l l ing s ixJews includ ing a Rabbi and two children in thesuburb of M otsa . In Hebron 59 Jews were k il led , iSafed 2 0, in Tel Aviv 6, elsewhere in Palestine 42.


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Plate 69 193 6: Arab schoolg i r ls mar ch w i t h the i r headmis tress . Hind H usse in i , du r ing widespread A rabdemonst ra t ions aga ins t Jewish immigrat ion in to Pales t ine.

P la te 70 18 May 1 93 9: Jewish veterans , for m er so ld iers in the Br i t i sh A rm y , dem ons t ra te aga ins t thePalest ine W hi te Paper o f M ay 1 939 . A t a t ime of gro win g Naz i persecu t ion o f Jews in Ge rm an y,Au s t r ia and Czechos lovak ia , the W hi te Paper imposed a s t r i c t l im i ta t io n on a l l fu t ur e Jewishimm ig ra t i on , and Was des igned , f o l l o w in g A rab p ressu res , t o p reven t any fu tu re Jew i sh ma jo r i t yin Palest ine.


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m

The Jewish Quarterof the Old Ci ty in1 9 3 7 , w i th the domesof tw o of the synagogues. To the lef t ,the Mount o f O l i ves .

Plate 72 Ben Yehuda St reet ,one of the main shopping streets in thecentre of the predominan t l y Jew i sharea o f the c i ty ; apho tog raph taken i n1 9 3 5 .


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Plate 73 An Arab fam i ly in the i r Ka tam on hom e. A photo grap h taken by the Swedish photog raphe rAnna R iwk in i n 1946 .

P la te 74 A rab women and Or th odo x Jews ; a pho tog ra ph taken by Ann a R iw k in i n 1946 .


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T H E J E W S A N D A R A B S OF J E R U S A L E MBY 19450 500 yardsi i i i i0 400 metres

" to the coast

^j The Old City.| Pr inc ipal Jewish areas.

^ Pr inc ipal Chr is t ian Arab areas.2 Pr inc ipal Mu sl im Ara b areas.

Jewish areas aban done d as a resul tof Arab attacks in 1929 and 1936. M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 97 7

R A M A T R A H E L

POPULATION IN I944JEW S 97,000 (61 7%)MU SLIM AR AB S 30,630 (19 5%)CH RIS TIAN ARABS 29 ,350(18 7%)


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Between 1945 and 1947 Ara b terr oris tscomm itted several acts of terror againstJew ish civil ians. During the same period ,sma ll Jewish terror ist groups alsocommitted acts of terroragainst bothArab civ i l ians and Bri t ish soldiers. Theant i - British hatred arose from Britain'srefusal to allow Jewish survivors ofHit le r 's exterm inat ion camps to enterPalest ine. The Jewish Agency condemned al l terror ism , whether by Jews or Arabs.

W$$ Mixe d Ara b-J ew ish areas by November 1947.\ \ Predom inantly Jew ish or Arab areas.H H 'Bev ingrad ' , the Br i t ish for t i f ied area in wh ichall civil l i fe was suspended.

-# - Principal Arab and Jewish terror ist a ttac ks inJerusalem between A pril 1945 and March 1948.

G o v e r n m e n t H o u s eB r i t i s h H i g h^ > C o m m i s s i o n e r ' sR e s i d e n c e

J e w i s h A g r i c u l t u r a l S c h o o lC r G o v e r n m e n tA r a b C o l l e g e

From the first week of the United Nation s plan topartit ion Palestine into a Jewish and an Arab state,Arab bands attacked individual Jews both inJerusalem itself, and on all the roads into the City.Betwe en Novem ber 1947 and April 1948, 296Jews were kil led in amb ushes on the roads and inJerusalem itself. 302 Arabs were kil led by Brit i shtroo ps, by Jews in self-defence, or by Jewishterror ists as reprisals.

Ma r t i n G i l be r t 1977


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J E W IS H A ND A R A B S U BU R BS INTH E J E R U S A L E M A R E A BY 1947By 1947 there were eightee n Jewishset t lements w i th in f i f teen mi les ofJerusalem , two of wh ich, HarTuvand Motsa.ha d been founde d in1895, the rest between 1920 and1947. A fur ther two s et t lemen tshad been abandoned as a resul t ofAra b at tac ks in 1929 and 1936, oneof them the Jewish commun ity ofHebron, which dated f rom anc ientt imes .

Bei t Mahs i rKas la

, t n e -os

El UmurElE iz a r iy a

Be i tU m mElJura Bei tS a f a f a / A b uDis

Bat t i r

W a d i Fuk in

Bei tJa l l a Beth l ehem Ur tas

Bei t Sahur

S u r i f B e i t U m m a r

Migdal Eder

Bei tFaj jar

Jewish suburbs and set t lementsin the Jerusa lem area by 1945.

J Jewish set t lements in the-"#'- Jeru salem area destroy ed oraband oned in 1929 and 1936. Pr inc ipal Ara b tow ns and v i l lages.


Ha lhu i APPROXIMATE POPULATIONOF THE CITY OF JERUSALEMIN 1947JEWS 100,000ARABS 65,000

Map 47

Sa ta f

Hussan

Sur Ba hir

S a r i sDeirN

A y u b


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Plate 79 The A rab reac t ion t o the U ni te d Na t ions vote in favour o f tw o Pales t ine Sta tes , one Jewishand the o the r A rab ; loo t i ng and bu rn i ng Je rusa lem 's p red om inan t l y Jew i sh "Com me rc i a lCe n t re " , 2 December 1947 .

P late 80 Ara b terror i sm co nt in ue d: the Ben Yehud a St reet exp los ion o f 22 Februa ry 1 94 8.


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T H E U N ITE D N A T I O N S 'P L A N FOR J E R U S A L E M , 1947On 29 November 1947, as part of its resolution onPalestine (RESOLUTION 181 ( I I ) A) , the GeneralAssembly of the United Nations adopted the proposaltha t "Th e City of Jerusalem shall be establishe d as acorpus separatum under a special international regimeand shall be administered by the United Nations".Under this plan, a referendum was to be held afterten years to seek the view s of the C ity's res idents asto whether the internat ional regime should cont inue ,or be mod i f ied.

POPULATION OF THEJERUSALEM MUNICIPALITY, 1947Jews 99,320Arabs 65,000POPULATION OF THE'SPECIAL INTERNATIONAL REGIME'AREA, AS DRAWN BY THE U.N.Arabs 105,000Jews 100,000

9Shuafat

The Jewish A gency accepted th is plan, describingi t as a"heavy s acr i f ice" which w ould never thelessserve as' th e Jew ish contr ibut ion to the solut ion of apain ful problem". The Arab Higher Com mittee,supported by Iraq, Saudi Arabia and Syria,rejected the plan, and called instead for a "un if iedindependent Palest ine". A l tho ugh the Uni tedStates and the Soviet Union both supported theplan, it was never put into effect.

j The municipal boundary of Jerusalem1 in 1947, under the B rit ish Ma nda te.I Boundary of the"special international

reg im e" , as proposed by the U.N. ) Pr incipal Jewish suburbs wi th in the$$ j proposed U.N. regime.Principal Arab suburbs and vi l lageswithin the proposed U.N. regime.


Map 48 91


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Pla te 81 Scene o f an Ar ab ambush a t Bab e l-Wad, on the road to Jerusa lem , 194 8. The t rucks were le f tby the roads ide as a me mo r ia l to the dead ; a pho togra ph taken in the 1960s.

Plate 82 A Jewish co nv oy w it h m edical su ppl ies reaches the Hadassah hos pita l on Mo un t Sco pus, and iswe lcomed by the nurses, 1948 .


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T H E BA T TL E FOR TH E J E R U S A L E MR OA DS 1-14 A PR IL 1948Te l Av ivJa f f a

Ras al-Ayn

plain

End March Occupied bySyrian and Iraqi troop s.2 A p r i l Occupied by theHaganah. 1 Jew kil led.6 A p r i l 3 Jews kil led.7 A p r i l 7 Arabs ki l led.8 A p r i l Arab Commanderkil led.11 A p r i l Jews destroy Ar abvillage of Kolonia, fromwhich Castel attacks hadbeen launched. The inha bitants had been evacuated.

13 A p r i l Arabs attack aconvoy of Jewish doctorsand nurses on their way tothe Hadassah hospital onMount Scopus. Many ofthe Jews were shot as theyran from the ir burningvehicles. 78Jews killed.

Constant Arab snipingthrougho ut A pril 1948against civilian vehicles onthe roads to Jerusalem .

mEMBsssamm1 A p r i l Arabs attack Jews:17 Arabs kil led when attackrepulsed.2 - 7 A p r i l Arab s kil l f iveJews.9 A p r i l Arab mortar f irekil ls a 12yearold Jewish girl.J u d a e a n

In the six weeks before the Brit ish w ithdrew fromPalestine, the Arabs did everything in their powerto prevent the Jews from reaching Jerusalem, andsought to disrupt all Jewish life within the city.

5 A p r i l Jewish Haganah troops kill 10 Iraqi troopswho had been attacking Jewish transp ort onthe Jerusalem road.

KFAR ETZION13 A pr i l Attack by 400 Arab troop srepulsed by Jewish defenders.

12 Ap r i l Jewish Haganah troops blow up 12 buildings in area from which road attacks had come .

DE R YASS N9 A p r i l Jew ish terroris ts kill more than250 Arab s. The Jewish Agency and theHaganah both immediately condemnedthe killings as'utterly repugnant'. M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 97 7 Kfar Etz ion

Map 49 IT H E BA T TL E FOR T H E J E R U S A L E MR OA DS 14 A PR IL -14 M AY 19480 4milesi i i i i

24 A p r i l Jews attack baseof Arab raids on both theRamallah and Tel Aviv roads.25 Jews, 6 Arabs kil led.18 A p r i l 1 Jew killed in heavyArab attack on set t lement.19 April Jews attackShuafat.base for the attackon N eveYaakov.

BIDDU, BEIR SURIK19 A p r i l Haganah destroy100 houses and kill manyIraqis at these bases forattack s on the Jerusalem -Tel Aviv road.

J E R U S A L E M17 A p r i l 1 Jew kil led byArabmortar f i re .18 A p r i l Arabs nipers kil l aJewess. 3 A rabsnipers kil led.22 Ap r i l Arabsnipers kil l twoJews.2 4 A p r i l Arabs kil l 3 Jews.25 A p r i l Arab mo rtar f irekills 1 Jew. 45 Arabs kil ledin Jewish counterattack.

KFAR ETZION2 0 - 3 0 A p r il Jews repel repeated Arab attac ks.4 M a y Arab attacks beaten off; 12 Arabs kil led .12 M a y Several hundred Arabs renew theatta ck . 100 Jews killed. Only 4 survive d. 15Jews were machine-gunned to death after theyhad surrendered, and were being pho tographed by their cap tors.

DEIR AYUB16 A p r i l 6 Jews killed by anArab ambush.E N T Z U R I M14 M a y The last sett lemen t of theEtzion block captured by the Arabs.

( J E R U S A L E M

Bethlehem

E i n T z u n mM a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 977

Kfa r E tz ion


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Pla te 83 The Jewish Agen cy bu i ld in g in Jerusa lem , b l ow n up by A rab te r ro r is ts on 11 March 1948two months be fo re the end ing o f Br i t ish ru le . Among the th i r teen Jewish dead was the 72 yearo ld Z io n is t w r i t e r a n d a d min is t ra to r , L e ib Ja f f e .

P la te 84 Br i t is h so ld ie rs , fo r m er l y s ta t ioned in Jerusa lem , em bark a t Ha i fa fo r Br i ta in on the s teamsh ipSamaria, Ma y 1 9 4 8 .


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J E R U S A L E M U N DE R S IE G E 1948On 15 May 1948, fol lowing the departure of al l Br i t isht roops from Jerusalem , three Arab armies - tho se ofEgypt , I raq and the Arab Legion f rom Tra ns jo rda n-tog eth erw i th Syr ian t roops , sur rounded Jerusalem,bom barded the City,and sought to capture it . In fourwe eks , 170 Jew ish civi l ia ns were kil led and 1,000 w ereinjured by Arab shel l f ire. A truce was s igned on 11 June1948. On 7 July, at the end of the tru ce , Israeliforces capture d Ein Kerem from the Egypt ian force shold ing i t .

During the last few we eks we have succeededin substa ntially increasing our effectivestrength on land a nd in the air in all parts ofthe country. It is abso lutely essen tial thatJewish Jerusalem shall continue to stand fastduring these days of trial. Notwithstandingthe end of the fighting in the O ld City,strenuous efforts to relieve Jerusalem and itssurroundings are in hand and being pressed....Be strong and of good courage'.D A V I D B E N G U R I O N ,M E S S A G E T O J E R U S A L E M3 0 M A Y 1 9 48

On I Au gu st the Israel i Governm ent d eclared westJerusalem to be occupied terr i tor y and appo inteda Mi l i tary Governor, Dov Jose ph. On 17September, fol lowing the assassinat ion of theUN me diator, Coun t Bern ado tte, by Jewishterro r is ts , the Israel i Government forc ibly disba nded the terrorists, and in February I949 declaredwest Jerusalem an intretjal part of Israel.rc M a r t i n Gilbert 1977 I

Jewish suburbs and vil lages captured bythe A rabs du r ing May and June I948.Jewish areas holding out againstconcer ted Arab at tacks f rom 15 May I948,and comp letely cut of f f rom the coa st.Arab suburbs and v i l lages captured byIsraeli forces, May to June I948, andabandoned by the i r Arab in hab i tants .Front l ine between the Israeli and Arabforces at the f irst cease-fire.Captured by Israel i forces between thef i rs t and second cea se-f i res.Captured by Israeli forces, October I948.Arab v i l lages occupied by Transjordan inI948, and forming p art of Jordan unti l I967.


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Plate 85 1 May 19 48: dur ing the Bat t le o f K ata mo n, Jewish so ld iers advance agains t an Ara b fo r t i f i e dpos i t ion in a pr i vate house.

1 put*lU n

Plate 86 Du ring a lu l l in the f igh ting in Octobe r 1 94 8, anIsrael i sold ier sleeps, surrounded by Br i t i sh gra f f i t i and a Hebrew no t i ce :" R e m e m b e r t h e C o m m ander who never reco i l e d , Shab ta i So ro tzo n , afearless soldier" .


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J E R U S A L E M A T W A R 1948T H E L A S T 2 W E E K S OF B R I T IS H R U L E

28 M a r ch24 Ap r i l29 A p r i l30 A p r i l

12 M a y

14 M ay

14 M ay

Bread rat ioning introduced.Jews capture Sheikh Jarrah,butdr iven out by B ri t ish troops .Heavy Arab shell ing of Jewishsuburbs.Jews attack Katam on, fore stal l ing an Arab attack onRehavia, dem oral is ing theArab forces, and precipi tat inga large Arab exodus from theCity, eastwards to Transjordan.Katamon fal ls to Jewishforces.Jews open a jeep track to thecoasta l p la in .Iraqi troops cut off Jerusalem'swater supply at Ras el-Ayn asBri t ish troop s leave.Arabs destroy Etzion Bloc.232 Jews kil led , 268 takenprisoner.M idn igh t: the last Br i t ishtroops leave Jerusalem .

Brit ish fort i f ied 'Securi ty Zones' by Apri lI948. All were occupied by Jewis h u nitson 15 May 1948, imm ediately after theBr i t ish w i thdrew.Otherstrategic points and suburbsoccupied by Jewish units on l5May I948.Approximate div id ing l ine between theArab and Jewis h forces on 15 May.Unsuccessful A raba t tacks, l5 M ay- I I June.Unsucce ssful Jewish att ac ks , 15 May -II June.

A b uD i s

300 yards600m

'Hard to think of the Old City without a single Jew. Whe nlast was there such a time ? Nearly 800 years agoMaimo nides found Jews there. The old undergroundSynagog ue of Yohanan be n Zakkai is reputed to have beenstanding nearly 2,000 years ago; now, like the neighboring Hurva, it is a shamb les. Jews were in the Old Citywhen the Seljuks conquered it, and in the days of theCrusades, when the Turks took it over. Allenby foundthem when he conquered it from the Turks. But toda ynot one is left'. HARRY LEVIN

J E R U S A L E M E M B A T T L E D '29 M AY 1948

20 M a y

2 2 M a y

2 8 M a yI I J u n e

Ara b Legion occu pies Sheikh JarrahJews on Mount S copus cut off .Arab Legion fails to take BeitYisraeArab Legion fails to capture NotreDame. Jews evacuate Ata rot andNeveYaakov.Arabs fa i l to capture Mea Shearim .Egyptians dr iven from RamatRahel.The 2,000 Jewish civil ians and 100soldiers in the O ld City, besiegedsince February by 30,000 Syrian,Iraqi, Arab Legion and local Arabforces,appeal in vain to the U.N.Jewish Quarter of the Old Citysurrenders.First Truce. The'Burma Road'open-ed, l inkin g Jewish Jerusalem to thecoastal plain , and breaking the siege,



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Plate 87 The n or th-w est corner o f the O ld C i ty , outs ide the wal l s , look ing tow ards the Jaf fa Gate. Aphotograph taken f rom the Is rae l i sec tor in December 1948 over look ing 'No-Man's Land.

P late 88 Ara b L egion so ld iers f ro m T rans-Jordan ( le f t ) , and Is rae l i M i l i ta ry Po l i ce , on guard a t Gove rnmen t H ouse, 24 January 194 9, awa i t ing the arr i va l o f the Un i ted Nat ions Co nc i l ia t ion Co mmiss io n .


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L OS T Q U A R TE R S A N D N O -M A N 'S L A N D, 1949 1000yardsOn 3 Apri l 1949 an armistice agreement was signe d by Israel and Trans jordan.Under th is agreement, Jerusalem was div ided from north to sout h, a long theNovember 1948 ceas e-fire l ines of the Israeli and Transjordanian forces, w ithseveral N o- M an 's- La nd areas between them , and two demil i tar ized zones.As a result of ten mo nths of f ig ht ing , many Jews and Arabs had f led , andothers had been dr iven, f ro m the i rho m es , w i th the resu l t tha t the arm is t ice-lines now acte d as a frontie r l ine betw een the tw o previously interm ingledcom mu nit ies. As one result of the arm ist ice agreement, Mou nt Scopus wascu tof f f rom Israe l; only minimal Israel i access was allowed, and Jordanwo uld not perm it the University, the Library, or the hosp ital to functio n.

T

500 metres

I s a w i y a

Scopus

M Jewish area, not a l lowed to funct ion bythe Jor dan ians , 1949-1967. Dem ilitarized zones, 1949-1967.

S The Man delbaum Gate, the only crossingpoint between east and west Jerus alem . Ma r t in Gi lb er t 1977 z


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Plate 89 A "sn ipe r 's w a l l " in the Jaf fa r oad , near the nor th -west co rner o f the Old C i ty , bu i l t to p ro tectthe c i t izens o f Is rae l ' s cap i ta l f rom sn iper f i re f rom Jordan ian t roops on the C i ty W a l l .

Plate 90 A shelter in the Israeli sub urb of Musra ra, near the arm ist ice l in e; a ph oto gra ph tak en in 196 6.


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J E R U S A L E M : T H E D I V I D E D C I T Y1949 -1967 V T1000yardArmistice lines of 1949 to 1967.Built up areas by 1966 (mostly Jewish).Built up areas by 1966 (mo stly Ara b).

jr Isawiya i ^ ^ i Mount I' Scopus

JEWISH1949 84,0001952 123,0001966 195,000

ARAB42,00047,00070,000

On 5 December 1949 the State of Israel declaredwest Jerusalem its ca pita l. On 23 Janu ary 1950the Israeli Parl iam ent, mee ting in the C ity,proclaimed that"Jerusalem was and had alwaysbeen the ca pita l of Israel". On 12 July 1953 theIsraeli Foreign Ministry transferred from TelAviv to Jerusalem, despite earl ier protests fromthe Unite d State s, Br itain , France, Italy, Turkeyand A us tra lia , each of whic h refused to moveits Embassy to Jer us ale m . By 1967 however,4 0% of a l l d ip lom atic missions (bu t not theU S A , USSR or B r i ta in) were located in thec i ty .

M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1 97 7 z

On 17 Ma rch I950, a Jordanian civil admin istratio nwas set up in east Jerusale m, and on 24 Ap ril1950, the Jordanian Parl iament in Ammanrat i f ied the annexation of east Jerusalem,withAm ma n as capita l of the enlarged State.Only two S ta tes recognised th is ann exa t ion -Brita in and Pakistan . On 27 July 1953 KingHussein declared east Jerusalem to be' thealternat ive capita l of the Hashemite Kingdom"and an" integral and inseparable part" ofJordan , but h is Government discouragedeconomic development in east Jerusalem , andrefused to set up an Arab University there.


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D I V ID E D J E R U S A L E M A N D T H E H OL Y PL A C E S , 1949-1967Under Art i c le VI I I of the Israel-Jo rdan Arm ist ice Agreem ent of 3 Ap r i l 1949, Israel i Jews wereguaranteed free access to the Western (or Wai l ing) Wal l , but not to the Mount of Olives cemetery,th e K idron valley to m bs , or the tom b of Simo n the Ju st. In fac t, no Israeli Jews were allowed to visiteven the We stern Wa l l dur ing the nineteen years of Jordanian rule, a motor road w as bui l t throughthe Mou nt of Ol ives cemetery, tomb stone s were used as bui lding m ater ials , theT omb of S imonthe Just used as a stable, and the synagogues of the Old City were demolished or desecrated.

From I949 to I967 the Ch ristian and M uslimshrines under Jorda nian rule were open toall Christians and Muslims, except thoseresident in Israel. Thus thousand s of IsraeliArabs found them selves prevented, byJordan, from pray ing at Al Aksa Mosque,or sett ing foot on the Harama l-Shar i f . InNovember 1949 the United Nations rejectedan Israeli proposal for the inte rnation alization of the Old City (6-5% of the municipalterr i tory of Jerusalem ). On 5 January I95IJordan appo inted a Musl im Arab asSupreme Custodian of the Holy Places.

o01

0

Wal ls of theOld City ofJerusalem.yards 400

J - 1 1 1'T 1 1metres 300

ty Jewish Holy Places, according to United NationsMap No. 229 of November 1947.O Christian Holy Places, according to the same map.# Mu slim Holy Places, according to the same map.***" Boun dary betw een Israel and Jord an , I949-1967.

M a r t i n G i l b e r t 1977


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Pla te 93 The lau ndry a t R am at Rah e l , dest ro yed dur ing Egy p t ian and Ara b Leg ion a t tacks in May 1948Th is pho tog raph was taken s ix m onth s la te r .

P late 9 4 Th e t re n ch l i n k in g R a ma t R a h e l w i t h Ta lp io t , Oc to b e r 1 9 4 8 .


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J

1926 Kibbutz Ramat Rahel founded by Jewish'Labour Legion' pioneers.1929 Ara bs kill one memb er of the kib bu tz,drive off the others, and lay waste tothe si te.1930 During reb uildin g, a split betwee nSocialist and Communist members ofthe k ibbutz led to the Com munistsreturning to the Soviet Union, where,within 5years, they were kil led inStalin's purges.1934 New settlers arrive from Germany andEastern Europe. Many foun d work at theDead Sea Potash work s, some atJerusalem railway station as porters.The kibbutz also operated a laundry andbakery service for the City.1936 Several Arab attac ks, I936 -I939 . Muchproperty destroye d. Three kibbutzmembers k i l led.1948 Egyptian and Arab Legion forces overrun the kibbutz three tim es. Ten kibbutzmem bers, and 40 other Israeli soldierskil led. The sett lement, a l though completely destroyed, remained withinIsrael's border.1949 Forty me mb ers retu rn. Vine yard splanted. Much of the kibbutz bordersfollow the armistice l ine between Israeland Jordan.1956 Jord ania n soldie rs open fire on agroup of archaeologists visit ing theexcavations. Fourarchaeologistskil led.1967 Kib bu tz heavily dam age d byJorda nian shell f ire. Followingthe Six- Day war, it became asmall independent enclaveinside the boundary of theenlarged Jerusalem municipality. Its membershiprose to 75.1977 The kibbu tz grows fruitand vegetables, has60,000 chicke

gilbert- jerusalem historical atlas

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