g2-colors and gems

Colored Gemstones

Colors and Gems

Diamond Council of America ©2016

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In This Lesson:• The Magic Ingredient

• The Color Equation

• Responses to Color

• Life’s Color Cycles

• Making Color Work

THE MAGIC INGREDIENTThe fiery red glow of a ruby or the lush cool green of

emerald, a sapphire’s blue serenity or the rainbow at play in anopal – for each of these gems (and most others, too), color isthe magic ingredient. It catches the eye, sparks the imagina-tion, and lures the heart.

Color’s strong appeal makes tuning in to it a must forevery gem professional. That appeal has many levels involvingconcepts and emotions as well as the visual perception of beauty .Some are linked to nature while others arise from culture. Thenthere are those that reflect personal events and meanings.

In a sales presentation you need to identify the aspects ofcolor that “speak” to your customer, and highlight their connections with the gems you show . Thismight mean comparing the golden yellow color of a topaz to autumn leaves. Maybe you could empha-size yellow’s place in trendy fashion palettes, or point out that it traditionally denotes happiness. Theright approach depends on the customer, but developing the understanding to get there takes colorsavvy and sensitivity on your part.

Understanding color can help in other ways, too. Color is the top value factor for most gems, andyou should be able to explain this clearly. Use color to give customers glimpses into the mysteries ofhow gems are created, or to help them understand the scientific detective work through which gems areidentified. Managing the complexities of color is also critical if you want gems to look their best inyour displays and showcases.

Colors and Gems

Cover photo courtesy R.A. Bentley.

Color involves not only the physicalsensation of beauty, but also mentaland emotional response.

JA® SPC SKILLSIf you’re participating in the JA®

Sales Professional CertificationProgram™, this lesson presents infor-mation related to the following SkillAreas:

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE• Colored Gemstones• Disclosure• History of Jewelry

SERVICES AND GUARANTEES• Store Service Programs

CUSTOMER SERVICE• Initiating Customer Contact• Building Customer Relations

SELLING PROCESS• Theory of Selling• Customer Needs• Building the Sale• Closing the Sale

SELLING TOOLS OPERATIONS• Merchandise Maintenance

POINT OF SALE PROCEDURES• POS Record Keeping• POS Customer Development

PROFESSIONAL STANDARDSAND EXPECTATIONS

BUSINESS ETHICS• FTC Guidelines• Trade Practices

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In the lessons ahead you’ll examine all these topics. Here,however, at the beginning of your adventure into the gem world,let’s take a look at the ‘big picture’ of color – how we see it andhow it affects us, the realms of color from nature’s canvas topersonal preferences, and some of the endless varieties of fered inthe gem world.

THE COLOR EQUATION Many people take color for granted because it’s all around us all

the time. In reality, color is actually a fascinating and amazinglycomplex phenomenon. It’s produced by an interplay between energy,matter, the senses, and the mind. You don’t need to know all the tech-nical details, but grasping the basic equation is essential if you want toconjure the magic of color for your customers. This basic equation isreasonably simple. In most cases, there are just three key “players” –light, an object, and the viewer.

The fascinating internal world ofgems comes alive when you tryto identify them.

Lesson ObjectivesWhen you have successfully completedthis lesson, you will be able to:• Identify factors that affect color perception.

• Discuss the emotions and symbolism of color.

• Explain links between gem and fashion colors.

• Use color more effectively in your presentations.

Light

Except for dreams, visions, and other mental events (like flashesafter a bump on the head), the colors you see lar gely depend on thelight that’s available at a particular time and place. Take, for example,a red rose. In moonlight it might appear dark brown; a little beforedawn, deep maroon; and at mid-morning, bright crimson. The rosedoesn’t change, but the light does.

A major factor in the change – and its dramatic ef fect on the flower– is the light’s color content. Most “white” light is a mixture of all thespectral colors. These are revealed when light shines through a prism.When this happens you can see the well-known rainbow spectrum ofred, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet, and all the color blendsin between.

The color content of white light can also vary .We usually don’t notice the variations because oureyes automatically adjust to them, but they stillexist. Full sunlight contains a fairly balanced colorblend, but daylight’s color shifts considerablydepending on the time and weather conditions.Most fluorescent lights, though they appear‘white’, are weighted toward blue and green.Incandescent lights – like the bulbs in most homesand the spotlights in your store – also appear‘white’, but put out more yellow, orange, and red.Some stores now use halogen bulbs, which gener-ally strive to balance the components of color .

Even minor differences in light’s color content can have a significant impact on how you perceive acolor. Though you may not have analyzed the way the color of a rose changes through the day , youmight have bought a blouse or shirt that looked great in the clothing store, but turned drab in yourjewelry showroom. Or maybe it matched an outfit perfectly when you tried it on, but not when youwore it. In either case, a dif ference in lighting was probably the culprit.

The same thing can happen with gems. The right light will bring a gem’s color to life – but theopposite is true as well. A neon-blue tourmaline that’s positively luminous under the cool-white fluo-rescents of an office may look dull and sleepy during a candlelight dinner . In the same settings, amandarin-orange garnet might snooze through the workday, but add passionate glints to the evening’sromance.

Colors and Gems


The color of lighting can make the same subject lookcompletely different.

Color is an amazingly complexphenomenon produced by anever changing interplay betweenlight, objects and you.

Since light is the starting point for color , colored gems can look different in some displays than inothers, depending on the light to which they’re exposed. Customers may also comment on dif ferencesthey notice when wearing gemstone jewelry. It’s all part of the mystery and wonder of color .

Object

While light is the additive part of the color equation, the next compo-nent usually involves subtraction. The process is called selective absorp-tion, and the concept is simple: In most cases, the atoms that compose anobject cause it to soak up – or absorb – certain elements – or colors – ofwhite light. We then see those that remain, and are reflected by the object,as the object’s color. The rose in the garden absorbs most colors except red.An amethyst absorbs orange, yellow, and green, leaving a mix of red andblue which we see as purple.

Gems play with light in many ways. When you look closely at anamethyst, you most often don’t see a single uniform color. Instead, there’s akaleidoscopic dance as you rock the gem back and forth. That’s becauselight rays are absorbed a little dif ferently as they enter the amethyst, bouncearound inside, and then reflect back to your eyes. Good cutting maximizesthis optical choreography.

In some gems, light takes on dif ferent colors as it travels in dif ferent directions. This is known aspleochroism (PLEE-oh-crow-ism), and one gem that shows it particularly well is tanzanite. Dependingon the direction through which you look at a tanzanite crystal, you see various blends of blue, purple,and pale greenish yellow. When the crystal is cut, it must be oriented so the most attractive combina-tion – the blue and purple – will be seen when the finished gem is set in jewelry .

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Amethyst selectively absorbsmost colors except red andblue, which combine todisplay the colors you see.

Photo courtesy Tino Hammid.

Depending on the directionyou look at tanzanite, yousee various blends of blueand purple.

Photo courtesy Gem Tech.

Good cutting maximizes the optical choreography.

Other gems display different colors side-by-side. This resultsfrom variations in the type or concentration of coloring agents thatare present. A watermelon tourmaline might be half green and halfpink. Ametrine shows amethyst’s purple next to the orange or yellowof citrine. In the kind of jade called moss-in-snow, delicate greenveins run through a background of pure white.

There are also gems that display completelydifferent colors in different types of light. A greatexample is the alexandrite variety of chrysoberyl. It’sred in incandescent light, but green in daylight orunder a standard fluorescent lamp. The light’s colorcontent and the way the gem responds to it combineto create this effect. As a result, alexandrite is classi-fied as one of the “phenomenal” gems. You’ll learnmore about this special group in the next lesson.

Colors and Gems


You

After light adds color and the object subtracts it, you – oryour eyes and brain, to be exact – total up the equation. This isthe most complicated step in the process, but the outline is stillpretty straightforward: Light reflected from the object enters youreyes and hits specialized cells that convert it to electro-chemicalsignals. These go to your brain, which decodes them and createsthe final color image.

From your own experience, you know the results can bedelightful. From a scientific standpoint they’re also amazing.Researchers say most people can distinguish more than 7 milliondifferent colors. With training and proper conditions, the numberjumps to about 10 million. That includes the colors of the spec-trum, black and white, and all the shades and tints from grays,browns, and pale pastels to the most vibrant visual fireworks.

Incandescent Light

Your eyes and brain are themost complicated componentsof how you see color.

Watermelon tourmaline isaptly named for it’s resem-blance to a watermelonfruit slice.

Daylight

Alexandrite displays differentcolors when viewed indifferent kinds of light.

Photos courtesy Tino Hammid.

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The three dimensions of color –hue, tone and saturation.

Courtesy Munsell.

Most of these color perceptions in your brain have threedimensions:

• Hue – This usually gives a color its generic name: red,yellow, blue, red-orange, blue-green, yellowish orange,greenish blue, and so forth.

• Tone – The color’s lightness or darkness. Totally neutraltones (without any hue) are pure black, pure white, and thevariations of gray in between. Examples of tone dif ferenceswith hue include pink and red, and sky and navy blue

• Saturation – The color’s strength and purity. This is alsocalled brightness, chroma, and intensity. All of these termsdescribe variations running from grayish or brownish (dull) tovivid. Sage green and slate blue are near the dull end of thatscale. Emerald green and royal blue are at the vivid end.

Tone is the varia-tion of a hue fromlight to dark.

Courtesy Munsell.

When they’re combined, hue, tone, and saturation define a colormuch like latitude, longitude, and elevation pinpoint a geographic loca-tion. You usually don’t need to get too technical with customers, butbeing aware of color dimensions can help you understand relationshipsthat are important in art, décor, fashion, and other areas – includingjewelry design, display, and wardrobing. Hue, tone and saturation

form a “World of Color”.

Courtesy Munsell.

Saturation is the color’s

strength andpurity.

Colors and Gems


• Mind and Body – Experiments have shown that colors af fectphysical functions such as heartbeat and brain activity. They alsoinfluence perceptions of size, weight, and temperature. Darkcolors tend to make objects look smaller and feel heavier . Lightcolors do the opposite. Reds, oranges, and yellows generatesensations of warmth. Greens, blues, and violets seem cool. Fire-engine red speeds the pulse and sends adrenaline pumpingthrough the body. Midnight blue lowers blood pressure and quietsthe nervous system. Colors between the extremes are also inter-mediate in the reactions they cause.

• Emotions – Some medical experts believe different colors stim-ulate brain areas that control certain glands, along with hormonesand the moods they produce. A number of psychologists are simi-larly convinced that color likes and dislikes yield insights intopersonality. Neither theory has been proven fully, but mostpeople would agree that color both influences and expressesemotions. The consensus is that red packs the most powerfulpunch by evoking or reflecting passion – whether it’ s in the formof love or hate, ecstasy or rage. At their best, orange and yelloware happy, uplifting, and invigorating. Green is linked to securityand comfort. Blue conveys inner peace. Violet communicatesemotional complexity, and purple signifies sensual enjoyment.

RESPONSES TO COLORThe ability to perceive color isn’t unique to our species.

Many animals have limited color vision. Some birds andreptiles, as well as most primates, possess the optical “equip-ment” to see color as effectively as we do. One thing that setsus apart, however, is the range of our responses to color .

Animals use their color vision mainly to identify food,threats, and mates. Over generations, though, humans havebuilt on their instincts through creative thinking, communica-tion, and shared traditions. As a result, colors have multipleeffects and meanings for human beings today.

Red speeds the pulse and sendsadrenaline pumping.

Colors have multiple effects

and meanings on a

human being.

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Blue conveys inner peace.

• Symbolism – In the early light of human imagination, thecolors of the yearly seasons stood for the stages of life. Soonafter came colors for the elements of creation andpersonal being – earth, air, fire, and water; body,spirit, heart, and mind. Over time, natural connec-tions grew into abstract concepts, and history addednew meanings. Blue provides a good example ofsuch evolution. Being the color of sky and oceanmade it an intuitive choice to represent the highestand deepest of forces. So, since ancient times blue has beenassociated with heavenly power, earthly authority, and eternalspirit. By extension, peace, mercy, and truth eventuallybecame part of its symbolism. In the 1300s an English kingpicked a blue garter for the emblem of the noblest order ofknighthood. This bestowed the connotation of superior qualityand achievement now carried by terms like “blue chip” and“blue ribbon.”

Because they’re essentially wired intoour brains and nervous systems, the ef fects ofcolor on mind and body are almost universal.Symbolism, however, is often rooted inculture. For instance, white (for purity) is atraditional wedding color in the US, but green(for fertility) once had that status in Europe,and red (for joy) was favored in China.Colors can have negative symbolism, too.Yellow can mean cowardice, green can denotedecay, blue can be melancholy, and there aresimilar downsides for almost every color.

Red evokes passionand high emotion.

Green is linked to secu-rity and comfort.

Colors and Gems


Emotional responses are highly subjective, and they are there-fore difficult to predict with certainty. Life experiences often deter-mine whether a particular color makes someone feel happy, sad, orindifferent. The specifics of hue, tone, and saturation matter aswell. (Just consider the emotional difference between indigo andturquoise blue. To most people, indigo is a solid and anchoringcolor – subdued yet strong. Turquoise is lighter, freer, somewhatflighty and happy.) Fads and fashions also have influence on theemotions people attach to colors.

In Lesson 12 you’ll find an expanded list of color -related images, feelings, and ideas you can use inpresentations. Right now, it’s important to realize thatseemingly simple preferences can have hidden depths.If a customer points to an aquamarine in your show-case and gasps, “Oh! That’s my favorite color!” shemight be responding instinctively to the gem’s sea-bluecharms. Perhaps for her the color invokes the mysticpower of water, or maybe it brings to mind a dress sheloved when she was a little girl. Getting acquaintedwith the customer can give you a feel for these possi-bilities, and enable you to bring out all the color trulyrepresents.

turq

uois

e b

lue

indig

o b

lue

The symbolism of color isoften rooted in culture.

Turquoise:lighter andfreer; happy.

Indigo: solid andanchoring; serious.

Life experiences often determine whether a

particular color makes someone feel happy, sad, or indifferent.

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LIFE’S COLOR CYCLESConsciously or not, all of us live within cycles of

color. From spring and summer to fall and winter ,nature sets the tempo and sounds the keynotes with arhythm of chromatic progressions. In some places,the effect is like a soft background tune. In others,it’s a full-blown symphony. Anywhere you happento be, though, the changing colors of earth and skymark the passing of time on a planetary scale.

Human communities also have their color cycles.Across the country, lights and decorations go up for theholiday season. Fireworks illuminate New Year’s Eve andthe Fourth of July. Grinning jack-o’-lanterns greetcostumed kids on Halloween. Whenever people celebratetheir heritage, identity, or civic pride, the streets erupt incolor. As each faith observes its calendar of worship,specific colors almost always have a role in the ceremonies.

There are less public cycles as well, and – like some ofthe grander ones – they help to keep life interesting. Maybeyou add festive touches to your home for holidays, birth-days, and anniversaries. You might periodically sprucethings up with fresh flower arrangements, or experimentwith the colors of knickknacks, throw pillows, and so forth.In your store, a comparable process is likely to be carefullyplanned and executed because it plays an important part incommunicating your company image, establishing displaythemes, and making your merchandise look inviting.

Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter –nature displays a rhythm of chro-matic progressions.

Colorful arrangements

and knickknacks

make a homeinteresting.

For centuries jewelry has been a fashionaccessory, and that role has become even moreprominent in recent years. It’s not surprising then that gemsalso experience vogues. This season’s hits might be theluscious pinks and reddish purples of rubellite tourmalineand “raspberry” rhodolite garnet. Next season may call forthe warm friendly oranges or yellows of citrine and“sherry” topaz. After that, the tart citrusy greens of peridotand tsavorite could be in style.

Fine jewelry can be costly, however, so an essentialelement of gem appeal is permanence. For this reason, yourjob as a professional is to keep a finger on fashion’ s pulse,while also keeping an eye on the timeless beauty and long-term value of gems.

Colors and Gems


For some of your customers, the color cycles of greatest interestexist in the world of fashion. Twice a year, at the fashion centers ofthe world, the latest palettes come strutting down designer runways.Not long afterward, they’re in catalogs and on ready-to-wear racksacross the country. Between premier and mass-market appearances,they splash through magazines, television programs, and thelifestyle sections of newspapers.

Fashion colors and “personal palettes” were once tied to the fourseasons of nature – fall, winter, spring and summer. Modern tastes,fabrics and dyeing methods have liberated them from those oldboundaries, but they still have definite cycles. A complete turn ofthe fashion wheel typically includes basic black and classic white,nearly neutral grays and beiges, earth tones, pastels, stronger tints,and bold pure hues. It might take a decade, and the sequence canvary – frequently subject to pop influences from Hollywood,Broadway, and MTV – but sooner or later, every ‘in’ color goesout and comes back again.

Twice a year the latestfashion palettes comestrutting down thedesigners runways.

Photo courtesyJames de Givenchy.

Photo courtesy Scavia.

It might take a decade…but sooner or later,

every color comes back.

Part of your jobas a professionalis to keep upwith fashioncolors and knowwhich gems workwith them.

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To help a customer balance these contradictoryconcerns, you might suggest that she approachpurchasing jewelry like buying clothes – with an ef fortto create a well-rounded wardrobe. It makes sense toinvest in items that are functional, versatile, and mean-ingful – in other words, pieces the customer feels thatshe’ll be able to enjoy for years to come. Then, asopportunity and budget allow, she can make additionsfor variety or special occasions. This puts decisions in acontext most customers understand. (From your view-point, it can also provide the basis for developing long-term clients.)

MAKING COLOR WORKNo matter how a customer looks at color , you can

mirror her thoughts, feelings, and priorities in the gemsyou present. Gems occur in every color, so it’s alwayspossible to match a preference. Regardless of fashion’scurrent direction, there will always be a gem to providethe perfect accent. There’s no better way to express feel-ings, communicate personal messages, or simply cele-brate being one’s self.

Since color is usually the first feature that catches acustomer’s attention, it’s also the logical place to begin apresentation. Start with the visual and go on from there,using color’s unifying themes to build your imagery.After spotlighting a tanzanite’s velvet blue allure forexample, you could say the depth and quality of colorgive the gem exceptional value. You can emphasize thatexpert cutting was required to display the color at itsbest. You might share the fact that tanzanite was discov-ered only a few decades ago, but its color has made itone of the world’s favorite gems. You also have anethical obligation to point out that a carefully controlledprocess of heat treatment permanently morphed the

Regardless of fashion direction,some gems are bound to be theperfect accent.

It makes sense toinvest in items that arefunctional, versatileand meaningful.

Photo courtesy BarbaraWestwood.

You can help acustomer mirror

their feelings in the gems

you present.

Colors and Gems


gem’s original color to its current splendor. Thus,whether you want to accentuate beauty, explain value,add interest, or disclose treatment, talking about colorcan help you achieve your objective.

To make color work in all these ways, you shouldput three items near the top of your list for professionaldevelopment:

• Learn more about color – Whatever your present levelof color consciousness, try to take it higher. For general infor-mation or inspiration there are lots of good books andwebsites available. Popular magazines cover color from afashion angle. Trade publications like Jewelers’ CircularKeystone, Modern Jeweler, National Jeweler, InStore,Jeweler’s Quarterly and Professional Jeweler often examinecolor and fashion from our industry’s perspective.

To gain “street-level” insights, pay attention to the colorschemes in blockbuster movies and hit TV shows. Look at howcolor is used in trend-setting clubs, restaurants, and stores. Studythe colors in department store fashion windows. In fact, become akeen observer of color everywhere you go. Most of all think aboutthe role that color plays in your own life, then strive to bring yourawareness and enjoyment to your interactions with customers.

• Learn more about gems – Connecting color with gemstakes a combination of general understanding and specificknowledge. This course will help you acquire both. Upcominglessons explain how color relates to product distinctions, valuefactors, identification methods, gem romance, the sellingprocess, and other aspects of your work. The ColoredGemstone Compendium provides additional information formost of the gems you’re likely to sell. Together, the lessonsand the compendium present overviews and close-ups thatenable you to respond effectively to any type or level ofinterest a customer might have. They also form a solid foun-dation on which you can continue to build.

Tanzanite was discoveredonly 40 years ago but itscolor has made it one of theworld’s favorite gems.

Photo courtesy Jean François Albert.

Trade publications alwayscontain topics on coloredgemstones.

Observing the colors in nature givesyou a keener sensitivity to them.

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• Learn more about your customers – Though itmight sound cliché to say that every customer is unique, it’ s true.Individual differences can start at the level of basic visualperception. (People who suffer from color confusion – oncecalled color blindness – are good examples.) Complexion andhair color often dictate choices for personal wardrobes, and thusthe gems that might serve as accessories. Personality also plays adramatic yet unpredictable role.

As you can see, knowing color and gems isn’ t enough.You’ve also got to know the customers you serve. That meansmaking an effort to build relationships and assure customersyou’re genuinely interested in their concerns. It requires takingtime to identify their needs, desires, and motivations. Only afterseeing to these crucial steps can you be fully prepared to say , “Ihave exactly what you’re looking for” and follow through withthe right suggestions and presentation.

Of course, you’re not going to master these goals in a week,a month, or even a year. Unlike smaller projects, you can’t set adeadline for learning all there is to know about colored gems,and marking things off your list shouldn’t be the top priority.After all, success, professional growth, personal fulfillment –however you define what you’re setting out to accomplish – isn’ ta destination. It’s an ongoing journey. From that perspective,color, gems, and your customers are part of a career path thatleads into the future as far as you want to go.

Knowing your customers andwhat they wish for takesbuilding rapport and showinggenuine interest in theirconcerns.

Individual differences can

start at the most basic levels

of perception.

Colors and Gems


RECAP OF KEY POINTS

• For most gems, color is a primary feature of appeal. That makes tuning in tocolor an essential for every gem professional.

• Color is normally produced by an interplay between light, an object, and theeyes and brain. Each component of this equation has a critical ef fect on howwe perceive color, and on the way colors appear in dif ferent types of gems.

• Human responses to color can involve mind and body, emotions, andsymbolism. The effects of color on mind and body are almost universal.Symbolism is often rooted in culture, and emotional responses are highlysubjective. As a result, a customer’s color preference can have considerabledepth.

• Color cycles exist in nature, in human communities, and at more personallevels. For some customers, cycles of greatest interest lie in the world offashion. Jewelry has always been a fashion accessory, but fine jewelry can alsobe costly, and permanence is part of gem appeal. To help customers balancethese concerns, you can introduce them to the concept of jewelry wardrobing.

• No matter how a customer looks at color , you can demonstrate how thoughts,feelings, and priorities are reflected in the gems you present. Color is usuallythe logical place to begin a presentation, and it can be a unifying theme aswell. To put color to work professionally, you need to learn more about gemsand your customers as well as color.

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LESSON 2 FOLLOW-UP CHECKLIST

____ Examine different gems in different types of light. If possible, try sun,shade, fluorescent, and incandescent. If all of these aren’ t options, acool-white fluorescent tube and a 40- or 60-watt bulb will show youwhat you most need to see. Use only one light source at a time, andnotice how the gem’s color appearance changes. (Generally, green,blue, and violet gems will look their best under the tube, while red,orange, and yellow gems will come alive under the bulb.)

____ With a few coworkers, or perhaps some friends, conduct a brain-storming session on physical, emotional, and symbolic responses tocolor. Run through the entire spectrum. Think about hue, tone, andsaturation variations – for example, emerald, lime, hunter , andavocado green. Consider negatives as well as positives.

____ During the next week, pay extra close attention to color in your life –everywhere you go and in everything you do. This can be the startingpoint for making color work for you, both professionally and person-ally.

Colors and Gems


his lesson also includes a Self-Test that’s designed to help you gauge your comprehension of the lesson material. The test is an important part of the learning process, so be sure to complete it.

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