fruit - how to grow apples

8/14/2019 Fruit - How to Grow Apples

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How to Grow Apples

The first thing you need to grow apples is a long-term commitment. Growing apples takes considerabletime and quite a bit of work. Still, if one of your fondest childhood memories is the apple tree in yourbackyard, producing your own apples is a satisfying part of gardening.

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Before you begin growing apples, make sure you have room for at least two trees. Typically, two appletrees bear enough fruit to keep a family of four in good supply. Apple trees need to grow in full sun, whichmeans they need at least six hours of sunlight each day. Even dwarf varieties need to be spaced at least8-feet apart. It is also essential to provide your trees with good drainage. Although apple trees tolerate avariety of soil types, they prefer sandy loam to sandy clay loam with a pH of about 6.5.

Choosing cultivars

You probably wonder why you need two trees to grow apples. Apple trees are self-incompatible. Simplyput, this means that even the most industrious bee (bees are the chief pollinators of apple trees) cant

persuade two trees of the same variety to bear fruit. So, to grow apples you usually need two trees ofdifferent varieties. Some nurseries offer apple trees that have two or more compatible cultivars grafted onthe same tree; but to be on the safe side (and to get enough apples for a family of four) you still need twotrees. A flowering crab will also pollinate your fruit-bearing apple tree and is useful in pest deterrence, asyoull see later in this article.

Although apples trees grow from seed, it takes several years and a significant amount of nurturing toproduce an apple harvest from seed. The easiest way to begin growing apples is to purchase either bareroot or container grown trees from your favorite garden nursery. In addition to fruit size, taste, and color,your nursery professional can recommend trees that are cold hardy for your area, bloom at approximatelythe same time, are pollination compatible, and are disease resistant. Youll find that purchasing diseaseresistant cultivars makes a generous cut in your apple tree maintenance time!

When selecting trees from a catalog or Internet site, you need to make these comparisons betweencultivars. Look for catalogs and sites that l ist compatible cultivars for you.

How high your tree grows also depends on the type of tree you plant. Dwarf varieties reach 8 to 10-feet inheight, semi-dwarf trees grow 10 to 15-feet tall, and standard trees may reach heights of 20-feet or more.Although their yield is less, dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstock typically bears the same size fruit as standardsize trees and is overall easier to manage.

Planting Apple Trees

Although fall is the best time to plant apple trees, bare root trees are difficult to find during autumn. If youplan to plant bare root trees, early spring when the soil is workable but temperatures are still cool is thebest time. Container grown trees can be planted any time during the growing season if you provide themwith sufficient water.

When planting bare root trees, hydrate the roots by soaking them in a pail of water for about an hourbefore planting. Using a sharp pruning shears, trim any broken or crossed roots and shorten all roots toabout 18-inches long.

Dig a deep hole, two to three times the size of the root ball. Mix some of the soil with well-decomposedcompost and add it to the hole. Gently spread the roots in the hole. Hold the tree in place, keeping thegraft union 2 to 3-inches above ground. Otherwise, your dwarf or semi-dwarf will grow to standard size!


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Starting with the top soil, refill the hole with the soil you have extracted, removing air pockets as you fill bytamping the soil with your feet.

Bury a container-grown tree at the same level it occupied in the pot.

Hydrate your planting with one to gallons of water. Add additional soil to maintain the soil at the same

level as that surrounding the hole. To help control weeds and conserve moisture, extend the diameter ofyour planting with a two to three inch layer of mulch applied about a foot from the tree trunk.

Trees generally need to be spaced as far apart as they will reach in height at maturity. In other words,dwarf trees need to be 8 to 10-feet apart and semi-dwarf trees need to be spaced 10 to 15 feet.

Stake new trees during the first year to prevent strong winds from dislocating them and causing them togrow at an angle. Dwarf apple trees have a weaker root system and may need staking for the life of thetree. Secure stakes to your trees with heavy 9-gauge wire, enclosing it with a piece of garden hose orother wrap to keep the wire from damaging the trunk.

Young trees are a favorite food of many small animals like rabbits and field mice. Protect your newlyplanted apple trees with a 15 to 18-inch piece of hardware cloth placed around the trunk. Push thehardware cloth about four inches down into the soil. As the tree matures, remember to remove it so that itdoesnt girdle the tree.

Pruning and Training Apple Trees

Many gardeners prefer the central leader system for pruning trees. In this system, the trunk or central leader supports three to five scaffold branches (fruiting branches connected to the trunk). Your goal is todevelop and maintain the scaffold branches at a minimum of 60 from the trunk, so that the tree issomewhat cone-shaped. This type of pruning allows light and air to reach every part of the tree, aiding indisease prevention and helping fruit to ripen.

Begin pruning at planting time. Remove any suckers from the base of your

tree, any branches that are lower than 30 inches from the ground and anybranches that compete with the leader. Next, select four to five of theremaining branches as your scaffold branches. Choose those that angleclosest to 60from the trunk. Scaffold branches should be spaced at least avertical half-foot apart. Prune out the rest of the branches. Trim scaffoldbranches so that the topmost branches are the shortest and the lowestbranches have the widest spread.

After the initial pruning, your tree needs annual touchups to:

1) maintain the conical shape2) remove any dead, broken, or diseased branches3) remove any vertical water spouts (these branches are vigorous vertical branches, which

compete with the central leader).4) remove any suckers from the roots or the lower trunk of the tree5) remove any downward growing branches6) new growth in the middle or upper part of the tree

Undertake annual pruning in late winter before the tree begins to bud.

If your trees have a tendency towards strong vertical growth, you need to train them to grow in a morehorizontal mode. Training branches to grow at 60 from the trunk slows down production of new leaves,


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new branch growth, and encourages fruiting. In addi tion, branches grown at wide angles are stronger andtherefore better able to support the weight of the fruit.

To train branches, use a spreader, wedged between the branch and trunk, forcing the branch to grow at awider angle. Spreaders are readily available at garden centers, but if you only need one or two, a strong,notched stick also works well. Remember to remove spreaders at the end of each growing season.

Diseases & Pests

Although many How to Grow Apple manuals cite dozens of diseases and pests, most are either rare orregional. There are actually only about a half-dozen problems and pests that you need to actively combat!

Pests: The worm in your wormy apple is most probably one of three types of insectlarva.

Curculio Beetle

Found in the Eastern US, this little bugger is tough to get rid of with either sprays or traps. Your

best bet is to scare it to death! Curculios like to roll over and play dead when they are startled. Aneffective method of ridding your orchard of them is to lay sheets on the ground in the morningsduring blossom time. Shake your tree. The curculios will fall into your sheets. Empty the sheetsinto waste bags and be rid of them!

An alternative method to combat curculios is with a repellant spray that contains two tablespoonsof garlic extract, two tablespoons liquid seaweed, one-tablespoon neem oil, and one-tablespoonfish oil per gallon of water. Use of this spray is where having a flowering crab at hand comes inhandy! Since this is a repellant spray and not a pesticide , the beetles will migrate from yourfruiting trees to your flowering crab.

Codling Moth

The codling moth is probably one of the most prevalent pests known to apples. After petal fall,moth larvae enter young fruits through the blossom end. moths lay eggs on leaves and twigsabout the time petal fall begins. Within days, larvae find their way to fruits and tunnel inside them,often beginning with the tiny openings left by the flower, feasting on the fruits of your labors.

Codling moth traps lure male adult moths with female pheromones and trap them. If your mothproblem is small, you can effectively protect your orchard with these. However, for larger codlingmoth problems you need to spray your trees with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Fish oil added to thespray mix both helps stick the bacterium to leaves and slows its breakdown. Beginning 15 daysafter petal fall, youll need to spray three times at five-day intervals.

Apple Maggot

Also known as the railroad worm because of the tracks it leaves in your apples, the Apple Maggotcauses pitting and dimpling in your fruit. Trap adult flies on red sticky balls by hanging them inyour tree after petal fall. Another way to reduce apple maggots is to promptly remove any fallenfruit.


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Fungus Problems Need Not Prevail!

Scab

Named because it looks like a healed-over scab, it is the most widespread and damaging ofapple diseases. Control scab by spraying your trees with sulphur near the time when your buds

begin to turn pink.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew is a fungus that attacks many flowers, fruits, and foliage plants. Characterizedby white to gray, talcum-powdery growth, i t thrives in warm, dry climates but needs highhumidity to germinate its spores. The best way to control powdery mildew is by pruning to let aircirculate freely through your tree. Sulphur spray also controls outbreaks of powdery mildew.

Cedar-apple Rust

This fungus looks like quarter-inch rust colored blisters. It also can be controlled with sulphur

spray.

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