Bass player Isley diesMarvin Isley, the bass player for the

R&B group the Isley Brothers, diedSunday in Chicago. He was 56.

Isley left the group in 1996 aftersuffering complications from diabetesthat included a stroke, high bloodpressure and the loss of both legsand the use of his left hand.

By the time he joined his brothersin 1973, the Isley Brothers had estab-lished themselves with hits such asthe million-selling Shout.

Isley moved on to Isley-Jasper-Isleyin the 1980s and returned to the IsleyBrothers in the ’90s.

The group, whose career hasspanned six decades, was inductedinto the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in1992.

At one point, it had five Isleybrothers — including Marvin.

These days, after a three-year stintin federal prison for tax evasion, onlyRonald Isley tours full time.

Sports festival seeks filmsThe Arnold Sports Festival will add

a movie event next year.The film festival will take place

SHOW & TELL

MAGIC SOUND PRODUCTIONS

Marvin Isley in 1984

See SHOW & TELL Page D5

06-09-2010 PAGE D1

DFOOD&LIFE�

WEDNESDAYJUNE 9, 2010

40 years as theater usher

Coming Thursday

A SPECIAL VOLUNTEERDispatch.com/multimedia

Online

MELODIC COMPLAINTSA recipe with shrimp, pineapple �D3

Skewered salad

Food Editor Robin Daviswill make Grilled SteakWith Pepper Relish (seerecipe, Page D2), pairedwith Laurello CabernetFranc, and demonstratethe roasting of bellpeppers on 10TV NewsHD at noon today onWBNS-TV (Channel 10).Missed the segment?Find it at DispatchKitchen.com.

WHAT’S UPAT THE KITCHEN

Owners of small farms oftenfeel a need to be in two placesat once: in the fields workingtheir crops and out sellingtheir harvest to the public.

Yet, as more Ohioans cravelocally grown food, farmersand food advocates are comingup with creative ways to unitethe product and the customer.

Such is the aim of LocalRoots Market & Cafe, a newfood cooperative in Woosterthat puts the wares of about100 growers and producersunder one roof, in a traditionalsupermarket setting with astrictly Ohio focus.

“We recognized that peoplewanted locally grown food

year-round, not just in thesummer,” said Marlene Boyer,the president of the board ofdirectors and a foundingmember.

“A venue for local foods, onethat would act as a hub forfarmers and producers, hadfew models to imitate, so westarted from scratch.”

The group gauged interestfrom nearby farmers and tookstock of what could fill thestore year-round — includingseasonal products that wouldbroaden the selection weekly.It decided to form a co-op inwhich producers pay anannual membership fee of $50to sell their goods and earn90 cents on the dollar for their

FARMERS CO-OP

FRED SQUILLANTE DISPATCH

Jessica Eikleberry, market manager ofLocal Roots in Wooster

Fresh idea simplifiesselling of Ohio fareBy Marilou SuszkoFOR THE COLUMBUS DISPATCH

See MARKET Page D3

WASHINGTON — Last year,when the indie folk-rock groupthe Decemberists introduced anew album, the disc wasn’t firstheard on iTunes or MySpace orany of the other big commercialsites.

Instead, the Portland, Ore.,outfit performed the album livefor a webcast carried exclusivelyon the music website of NationalPublic Radio (www.npr.org/music).

Yes, the Washington home ofAll Things Considered, Car Talkand other earnest news and talkprograms.

Although the typical NPR newslistener probably wouldn’t knowthe Decemberists from a Decem-ber calendar, the group knowssomething about NPR Music —namely, that music fans payattention to it.

The website, officially in busi-ness since late 2007, has becomesomething of a taste-makingforce in the fractured and frag-mented music business.

Through its blogs, news, lists,podcasts, videos and concertand album streams, the siteattracts about 1.6 million visitorsa month.

The nine-member staff alsofeeds some of its audio featuresto the NPR news shows.

Recent segments of All ThingsConsidered have featured the

INTERNET

NPR sitefinds tunesthat drawmusic fansBy Paul FarhiTHE WASHINGTON POST

See NPR Page D4

Brittany Baum and MariaGentile had a craving forpretzels.

Not the half-frozenones found at sporting events orthe ones sold at overrun stalls inshopping malls.

They sought the dense, buttery,lye-glazed twists closer to whatBaum had sampled in Germany.

The two manipulated recipesin their Merion Village andClintonville kitchens, bakingoversize prototypes topped withapples and Kalamata olives.

They later ventured beyond thestandard twisted pretzel to pro-duce hamburger and hot-dogbuns with the same taste andtexture.

In January 2009, their unlikelyhobby became a business.

Dubbing the venture Brezel, aGerman term for “pretzel,” theformer state-government co-workers began hawking theirBavarian-inspired creations atwww.brezelpower.com, duringarty gatherings such as the Agorashowcase in Grandview Heightsand on several Saturdays a

ERIC ALBRECHT DISPATCH PHOTOS

TASTY TWISTS: Maria Gentile, left, and Brittany Baum of Brezel, who make pretzels fromhome as part of a business that will soon occupy a storefront shop in German Village

Hot pretzelsBy Kevin JoyTHE COLUMBUS DISPATCH

Schmidt’s in German Village: deep-fried pretzel nuggets

Comforting snack gaining popularity in new forms

See PRETZELS Page D3

MarketDistrict.com

We’re Looking for LeadersWho Love Food!

Career opportunities in management and more atthe NEW Market District® coming to Columbus this fall!

Visit Careers.MarketDistrict.com for appetizing positions.A Dining, Cooking & Shopping Destination Unlike Any Other!

PubDate: 06-09-2010 Page: 1 D Edition: 1 Replate: User: tlemmon Color:CMYK

06-09-2010 PAGE D3

� D3FoodTHE COLUMBUS DISPATCH WEDNESDAY, JUNE 9, 2010BREAKING NEWS: DISPATCH.COM

McCormick RecipeInspirations ($1.99 at GiantEagle and Kroger)

Buying whole jars of spices fora single recipe can be expensive,especially for folks who don’tcook often. McCormick has comeout with single-recipe spice com-binations, complete with recipecards.

For example, the Apple andSage Pork Chop “inspiration”comes with allspice, dried garlic,paprika, sage and thyme. Thespices are mixed with flour thenused to coat pork chops and asthickening and seasoning for asauce. The results were basicallyfoolproof and quite delicious.

The only drawback is the kitsare pricey on a per-serving basis.But for those just learning tocook, the kits can be a great in-troduction. If you like the recipe,then you can invest in full-sizejars of the spices to make it again.

The kits are also a great idea fora camping or cabin vacationwhere you want to cook — butnot travel with your whole spicedrawer.

— Robin DavisFood editor

SHELF HELPQuick review of new products

CLASSES AND DEMONSTRATIONSClasses require advance registration.� Betty Ann’s Kitchen Classes, taughtby Betty Ann Litvak: “Picnic Fare” ($45),6:30 to 9:30 p.m. Thursday;614-846-6518 or bettyannkc@aol.com� Dorothy Lane Market’s School ofCooking, 6161 Far Hills Ave., Dayton:“Petite Chef Cooking Camp” for gradesone through three ($250), 9 a.m. tonoon June 14 through 18; “Jeni’s IceCream” ($65), 6 to 9 p.m. next Wednes-day; 937-434-1294 or www.dorothylane.com� Epicures Culinary, 7601 E. Main St.,Reynoldsburg: “Grillin’ and Chillin’ ”($50), 6:30 to 9 p.m. Friday;614-863-5603 or www.epicures-inc.com� Sur La Table, Easton Town Center:“Grilling Local: A Class Inspired byAmerica’s Farmers” ($69), 6:30 p.m.Thursday; “Date Night: Chef’s Table”($79), 6:30 p.m. Friday; “Niman RanchHeritage Pork” ($85), 1 p.m. Saturday;“Bon Appetit: Firing Up the Grill for Dad”($79), 1 p.m. Sunday; “Quick and EasySummer Meals” ($69), 6:30 p.m. Tues-day; “Dinner Party 101” ($69),6:30 p.m. next Wednesday;614-473-1211 or www.surlatable.com� Whole Foods, 3670 W. Dublin-Gran-ville Rd.: “Raw Desserts Focus Class”($35), 6:30 p.m. Thursday; “Low-FatCooking With Jan: Meat & Veggies”(free), 5 p.m. Tuesday; 614-760-5556� Williams-Sonoma, Polaris FashionPlace: “Skewers, Sticks and Satays”(free), 11 a.m. Sunday; 614-430-0118� Woodhaven Farm, 11401 WoodhavenRd., Johnstown: “Break Out the Grills”($41), 6:30 to 9 p.m. next Wednesdayor June 17; 740-967-0076

TASTINGS AND DINNERS� Giorgio Italian Restaurant, 2941 N.High St.: summer wine tasting ($15), 6 to 8 p.m. next Wednesday;614-265-9020� The Hills Market, 7860 OlentangyRiver Rd.: “Vintage Distributing” (pricesvary), 5:30 to 9 p.m. Friday;614-846-3220� House Wine, 644 High St., Worthing-ton: “Don’t Blush Over Dry Roses” ($15),6 to 9 p.m. Thursday; “Zinfandel” ($15),6 to 9 p.m. June 17; 614-846-9463� Spagio, 1295 Grandview Ave., Grand-view Heights: “Bubbles and French Fries”($38.50), 7 p.m. Thursday;614-486-1114, Ext. 2� Whole Foods, 3670 W. Dublin-Gran-ville Rd.: “Saturday Sips Wine Tasting”($10), 4 and 5 p.m. Saturday; “Wine &Cheese Focus: Italy” ($10), 6 p.m. nextWednesday; “The Brew Review” ($5), 5 to 7 p.m. June 17; 614-760-5556� The Wine Guy Wine Shop & TastingBar, 201 Clint Dr., Suite 200, Pickering-ton: “Rhone, Baby, Rhone” ($15), 5 to9 p.m. Thursday; 614-577-9463 orwww.thewineguywineshop.com

— Compiled by Robin Davis

Editor’s note: The deadline to submititems for What’s Cooking is one weekbefore the desired day of publication.

Send details to:What’s Cooking, Food DepartmentThe Columbus Dispatch34 S. 3rd St.Columbus, OH 43215

Or by fax ........................614-559-1754Or e-mail .......robin.davis@dispatch.com

WHAT’S COOKINGThe world of food and wine

month at the ClintonvilleFarmers’ Market.

Other folks, too, have had asimilar idea: Pretzels — and theircousins, pretzel buns — havebecome a rising staple in centralOhio restaurants and bakeries.

“They’re one of those deli-cious, salty, carb-y snacks,” saidGentile, 27. “And, when youwant one, you want a good one.”

After 16 years of success withits deep-fried pretzel nuggets,Schmidt’s Restaurant undSausage Haus last year added apretzel-bun sandwich: theBahama burger special.

“It costs a lot to put a pretzelbun on,” Vice President GeoffSchmidt said. “But it’s been verywell-received. It’s a nice product.”

Tip Top Kitchen and Cocktails,which opened Downtown in2007, serves its pot-roast sand-wich on a pretzel bun.

The meat was initially to befeatured on a hoagie or potatoroll, co-owner Elizabeth Lessnersaid, but the pairing didn’t click.

The pretzel bun has sinceyielded the best-selling sand-wich on the menu.

Lessner also understands theeconomics: At one time offeringits chicken-salad sandwich on apretzel roll, Tip Top charges 50cents these days for the upgrade.

“I don’t know why the SouthBeach Diet is so popular,” saidLessner, noting that her latestventure, Dirty Frank’s Hot Dog

Palace, sells “insanely popular”soft pretzels and hopes to addpretzel buns to the motley arrayof designer wieners.

Huntington Park has servedhot dogs on pretzel buns since itopened last year — a moveinspired by the fact that mostother sports facilities weren’toffering them, said ToddHoman, general manager of theSodexo food-service provider.

“Fans love it,” said Homan,who last year started puttinghamburgers on pretzel buns forColumbus Clippers patrons.

“A lot of people tell us it addsto the sandwich.”

The buns are served at theRed Door Tavern near Grand-view Heights — where theTwisted Pelican sandwich, withgrilled turkey and Swiss cheese,represents the top seller.

Omega Artisan Baking in theNorth Market moves more than200 pretzel rolls on Friday andSaturday mornings, managerBrian Ellingwood said, withseveral customers keeping astanding weekly order for thebuttery baked goods.

“This is a trend I fully sup-port,” said Vincent Venturella ofGahanna, who orders 10 rolls aweek to serve with butter or coldcuts.

National franchises, too, havecaught the wave, putting subson pretzel bread at Blimpiestores and the Ruby Tuesdaychain — which in Novemberadded pretzel-bun sandwichesas part of a menu revamp led bya former New York sous-chef.

Trader Joe’s and Whole FoodsMarket also carry the rolls.

Baum and Gentile of Brezel,meanwhile, have expanded theironline and farmers-marketbusiness.

They recently landed theirproduct at R Bar near Nation-wide Arena and the hipsterhangout Hal & Al’s in MerionVillage.

Next month, they plan toopen a German Village store-front — changing the home-based baking process into afull-fledged enterprise withcommercial ovens.

“We sell out every time,” saidthe 28-year-old Baum, whoduring the weekend served hergoods at the inaugural sausage-and-pretzel festival at theColumbus Maennerchor.

“It’s crazy. It’s almost like wecan’t make enough.”

The appeal, said Tom Vaccaro,senior director of baking andpastries at the Culinary Instituteof America, is easy to spot.

“You’ve got a couple of flavorprofiles working within onebread: sweetness, great texture, anice salt appeal,” said Vaccaro,who teaches pretzel-making atthe Hyde Park, N.Y., school aspart of a global bread course.

“People are seeing it as a nicecomfort thing.”

Gentile simply enjoys thereception that greets her craft.

“Parents come to get their kidspretzels, and they smile,” shesaid. “It’s one of those treats thatare universally loved.”

kjoy@dispatch.com

PRETZELSFROM PAGE D1

Twisted historyAlthough they seem to bepopping up everywhere,pretzels are hardly new:� The snacks are tracedto the early seventhcentury, when the firstpretzels are thought tohave been made by Euro-pean monks and offeredas a reward to childrenwho learned their prayers.(The original shape waseven designed to mimicthe crossed arms of apraying child.)� The simple recipebecame a longtimeoption during Lent, whenRoman Catholics were atone time discouragedfrom consuming eggs anddairy products during the40-day religious observa-tion.� Pretzels symbolize goodluck in Germany whenconsumed on New Year’sDay or worn as giantpendants during Oktober-fest. To show affection,boys in Luxembourg givepretzels to girls — the

larger the pretzel, thegreater the love.� More recently, the curvyshape has inspired roller-coaster designs (for ridesat select Six Flags and SeaWorld parks) and, asintroduced during the1990s in Europe, criss-cross bikinis.� Pretzels are said to havemigrated from Europe toPennsylvania in themid-1800s. And they haveremained economicallysignificant enough — as ayearly $550 million-plusU.S. industry, according toAuntie Anne’s Pretzels ofLancaster, Pa. — that Gov.Ed Rendell in 2003 estab-lished April 26 as NationalPretzel Day.� The ubiquitous crunchypretzels, too, have theirorigins in Pennsylvania,where a baker once left abatch in the oven too longand ultimately founddelight in the crisp textureand longer shelf life thatthe error produced.

— Kevin JoyGo to dispatch.com/rewards to

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sales. (The remaining 10 percentsupports operating expenses.)

“We wanted the farmers andproducers to gain more for whatthey do,” Boyer said.

Compared with traditionalfarmers markets, Local Roots differsin that the farmers or producersdon’t show up there as sellers.

“We were hearing from farmersthat selling at multiple farmersmarkets takes them away from thefarm too much,” said JessicaEikleberry, market manager.

“They could grow more food butdidn’t have a place to sell it.

“Local Roots makes it easy on thefarmers and the shoppers. It’s one-stop shopping for local foods.”

The co-op set its sights on a long-vacant building, in the heart ofWooster, owned by the WayneCounty commissioners.

Commissioner Ann Obrechtworked with the group to securerent-free use of the building for twoyears.

“Agriculture is the No. 1 businessin Wayne County,” she said. “Wesupported Local Roots because itgave small farms in Ohio anotheropportunity to get their products tothe consumer. There’s also a greatbenefit to having this in downtownWooster.”

Local Roots, in operation sinceJanuary, had its grand opening inMay.

With the store busy from thestart, Eikleberry hadn’t had time tostop and celebrate.

“Local Roots creates a valuable,convenient connection to localfoods for people from all overOhio,” she said, noting that somecustomers travel as far as 50 milesto the store because it puts so manyOhio-grown and -produced foods inone place.

“If it comes from Ohio, we con-sider it local,” said Eikleberry, add-ing that the products arrive fromthroughout the state.

The freezer cases are filled with abroad selection of meats, includinggrass-fed beef, lamb, pork and veal;and pastured poultry. Shoppers alsofind non-homogenized milk, eggs,butter, raw-milk cheeses, honey,maple syrup, artisan breads, milledgrains and specialty flours — plusan assortment of products such asjams, jellies, sauces and salsas; andseasonal fruits and vegetables.

For cheese-maker Angel King ofBlue Jacket Dairy in Bellefontaine,Local Roots taps a new market forher homestead goat’s- and cow’s-milk cheeses beyond the Columbusarea — where they are sold at 20outlets, including Curds & Whey inthe North Market and Whole FoodsMarket.

“Local Roots provides shoppersaccess to other quality, Ohio-basedproducts that might not be withineasy reach,” King said. “It easilyputs us in another part of the state.”

For shoppers such as Louisa Erb-Dundee of Mount Eaton, LocalRoots rounds out what she doesn’tgrow in her garden — mushrooms,artichokes and cheese, for example.

“You can’t beat the conveniencefactor,” she said.

Local Roots features a demon-stration area, cafe and meeting area;and a programming schedulerelated to locally grown foods, con-servation and sustainable farming.

Plans include a butcher shop,shared space for producers to createother products and an incubatorkitchen.

MARKETFROM PAGE D1

If you goLOCAL ROOTS MARKET & CAFE, 140 S.WALNUT ST., WOOSTER (330-263-5336)Hours: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Fridays andSaturdaysFor a list of producers and their products,along with programs and additional storehours through the harvesting season, visitwww.localrootswooster.com.

Here’s a main-dish salad thattakes a light approach and atropical bent, starting withgrilled tail-on shrimp and pine-apple.

Dressing the skewers and thesalad is a combination of ingre-dients that will inspire summerthoughts even on cool late-spring evenings. We’re addinganother layer of flavor by top-ping the salad greens with agenerous dose of chopped freshmint.

We recommend skewering theshrimp and pineapple sepa-rately; cooking time might varyslightly between the two ingre-dients, and this will give youmore control. Besides, the foodwill be removed from theskewers before serving.

If you don’t want to fire upthe outdoor grill, you can grillthe shrimp and pineapple on astove-top grill — or skip the grillaltogether and broil them.

Five-spice powder, also calledChinese five-spice powder, isavailable in the spice aisle ofmany supermarkets. But youcould substitute 1⁄4 teaspoon ofallspice if you don’t want topurchase a whole jar of the spicemix.

GRILLED SHRIMP AND PINEAPPLE SALAD

Makes 4 servings

As for beverages to pair withthis salad, a tart-sweet cheninblanc or sauvignon blanc mightbe the best way to complementits spicy sweetness. A nonalco-holic blend of pineapple juiceand tonic water, mixed to taste,would be terrific, too. Toss inany extra pineapple chunks.

20 tail-on raw shrimp,thawed if frozen

1 can (20 ounces) pineapplechunks in juice

1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons pineapple

juice (from liquid in can)1 tablespoon honey1 tablespoon rice wine

vinegar1⁄4 teaspoon salt1⁄4 teaspoon Chinese

five-spice powder 1 bag (8 ounces) mixed

baby greens1⁄2 cup chopped fresh mint1⁄2 cup chow mein noodles

Skewer the shrimp andpineapple chunks on separatemetal skewers.

Combine the oil, pineapplejuice, honey, rice wine vinegar,salt and five-spice powder in ameasuring cup.

Prepare a grill for medium-high heat.

Pour about 3 tablespoons ofthe oil-vinegar mixture into aramekin; brush the shrimp andpineapple with the mixture.(Note: Discard any excess mix-ture from the ramekin becauseit has been in contact with theraw meat.)

Grill until shrimp is opaqueand pineapple is golden-brown, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Divide the greens into fourshallow bowls. Sprinkle 2 table-spoons of mint over each. Di-vide the shrimp and pineappleamong each bowl. Top withchow mein noodles. Drizzlewith the remaining dressing.

PER SERVING: 353 calories; 8 gprotein; 32 g carbohydrates; 4 g fiber;23 g fat (3 g saturated); 46 mg cho-lesterol; 186 mg sodium

QUICK COOKING

Entree salad easily giventropical flair and flavorBy Renee EnnaCHICAGO TRIBUNE

BILL HOGAN CHICAGO TRIBUNE

A generous helping of chopped fresh mint gives another layer offlavor to this shrimp salad with pineapple.

PubDate: 06-09-2010 Page: 3 D Edition: 1 Replate: User: dpoole Color:K