forest vineyard badacsony wine region balatonfüred-csopak wine

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Forest Vineyard Badacsony wine region Balatonfüred-Csopak wine region Upper Balaton wine region Balatonmelléke wine region Balatonboglár wine region National park border National park Region border Motorway Railway Route Stately home Castle Museum Monument, church Ruins Spa Sailing-boat marina Landing stage Ferry Airport Round trip Lookout point Tourinform Office

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balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:51 Page 2

Szent György Hill, Chapel

3

Perhaps it will not be long before the Balaton regionalso has such a certificate, and those who win it shallbelong to the Lovers of Lake Balaton Club. Perhaps youalready consider yourself a member of the club, or

maybe you are only just toying with the thought of dis-covering the lake. Whatever the case, Central Europe’s

largest and most beautiful lake is worth a visit.

With all the magic of the holidays, Lake Balaton awaits you, your family and your friends.

Hungarian National Tourist Officewww.hungarytourism.hu

Nobody knows who first expressed a love for Lake

Balaton. Perhaps it was a poet, more probably some trav-

eller (two hundred years ago no other kind of visitor

passed that way), but the fact is that from the beginning

of the 19th century this sentiment occurs increasingly fre-

quently. First only in fine prose, then in the newspapers,

and today even in everyday language. Those who have

not yet been here find it difficult to understand this strong

attraction to the lake… If we look for reasons, there are as

many different answers as there are questions. Children

bubble with enthusiasm about the wonderful paddling

and splashing. It sometimes takes a firm command to get

them to come out of the shallow, warm, silky water.

Young people talk of the “great parties”, of dancing all

through the hot nights. For them the lake is a world of

meetings and adventures. Hikers and nature lovers speak

of the idyllic peace of the Upper-Balaton, or the vast reed

beds in the Kis-Balaton (“Little” Balaton), and of its water-

fowl, swirling up like clouds. Painters and photographers

affirm that the finest panoramas in Hungary are given by

the hills around the lake. Wine lovers immediately sing

the praises of Badacsony Kéknyelű or Balatonboglár

Olaszrizling, and gourmets that of grilled pike-perch.

Fishermen tell of fish a metre long, yachtsmen of cruising

into a headwind, rheumatism sufferers talk of the thera-

pies in Hévíz, music enthusiasts of the organ recitals in

Tihany or the operetta gala in Siófok…

And we could go on – perhaps for ever – but the first

dozen answers already reveal why the lake is loved. In

the world of the Balaton, with its multitude of possibil-

ities, everyone can plan their personal vacation tailored

to their own desires and interests. Whether you arrive

alone or in a family, with small children or

teenagers, with riding clothes or with a

hunting rifle, at the height of summer or in

mellow autumn, one thing is certain: you will

find the landscape, accommodation and activi-

ty most suited to your taste.

József Egry, master of impressionist moods, was

the greatest painter of the lake, and said that there

are no ordinary days on Lake Balaton. Those who

live here are aware of a heightened pleasure in exis-

tence, and involuntarily pass it on to those who visit.

Here guests are truly welcome. The housewife in pri-

vate lodgings takes new arrivals under her wing like a

mother hen, and by the time they have drunk their first

coffee with her, they know exactly where to find the

best restaurant, the cheapest market, the best beach,

the nearest wine cellar. Truly, at Lake Balaton they have

not forgotten the ancient rights of guests. Here you will

soon feel part of the family. Then when you return home,

this is how you will remember it: there are no ordinary

days on Lake Balaton. This great stretch of water, which

fills you with wonder at its variety, and tempts you with

the hospitality of its inhabitants, has laid its claim on

many hearts. Surprising but true, proportionally the

number of guests who return to Lake Balaton is much

higher than for the great tourist attractions of the

world. In Siófok, one of the finest towns on the shore

of the lake, a certificate has been created for guests

who return after more than a decade, and this is

awarded each year by the mayor. The most Loyal

Guest of the Town has spent all of his holidays since

1965 here…

Tempting You to Travel

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:51 Page 3

Hullámok ölelésében

4

Sailing competition

Even in ancient times there were people who had to swim in the lake

as a matter of necessity, fleeing from danger, or in the course of their

work. But bathing for fun, and the modern bathing culture started only

at the end of the 19th century, when citizens taking refuge from city life

appeared en masse by the lake. Plans and photographs of beautiful

bathing houses fashioned from wood testify to this period.

Bathing was at this time no longer a luxury for the noble and the rich. There

are records showing that, in the sweltering heat of summer, when the peas-

ants of Mezőföld finished their hard work (harvesting, tying sheaves, thresh-

ing) hundreds of them bathed in the lake around Balatonaliga (I 2) and

Balatonvilágos (H 3).

In the Embrance of the Waves

How should we testLake Balaton’s water?

As a joke we could say: with a

glass, and it’s not such an

absurd idea! After lengthy and

expensive environmental work

the water of the lake is once

more so good that one can even

drink it. Its quality is unrivalled

and is checked by experts from

abroad. ADAC, the largest

German automobile club, has

for years published the data, on

the Internet and other places.

L a k e B a l a t o n

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 4

Balaton

Balatonlelle, dusk

Motor yacht

Balatonboglár, beach

5

The water of Lake Balaton is most suitable for bathing in the three summer months. In this

period its temperature is rarely less than 22 °C, and in high summer it is not unusual for it to

reach 27–28 °C. Being a freshwater lake, it is ideal for bathing for those whose skin is sensi-

tive to salt. The only serious danger faces those who swim in the deeper water. When there is a

sudden storm, even physically strong, skilled swimmers have difficulty in battling with the lake’s

short, steep, crested waves. The problem is easily averted: all over Lake Balaton a storm warning

system of rotating lights warns bathers and yachtsmen of approaching high winds and storms.

With respect to sunbathing, the northern and southern shores of Lake Balaton are strikingly different

from one another. On the northern shore the water deepens sooner: 30–50 metres from shore it is deep

enough to cover a person. The beaches here are recommended for good swimmers or those with older

children. The Szigetfürdő (“Island bath”), a successor of a former bathing house, in Keszthely (B 4) is very

pleasant, and fine beaches can also be found in Zánka (E 3), Tihany (G 3), and Balatonfüred (G 2-3).

On the southern shore the water deepens very gradually, and in most places we can walk in up to five

hundred metres without having to swim. The strip right next to the shore is especially shallow, where

even the smallest children can frolic about in water hardly half a metre deep. That is why families with

small children regularly choose the southern shore. Those who have larger children, or who are feeling

more energetic, can have fun in the new Balatonlelle (E 4) bathing complex.

Balatonlelle

The eastern end of Lake Balaton is the empire of sun

worshippers. The beaches of Balatonkenese (H 2),

Balatonakarattya (HI 2) and Balatonaliga (I 2)

face southwards onto the lake and bask in sun-

light from early morning to late afternoon.

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 5

The Wonders of Nature

L a k e B a l a t o n

6

Nature has bestowed beauty in plenty on Lake Balaton. Much of the out-

standing landscape belongs to the protected area of the National Park of the

Upper Balaton. Those interested can ask for an expert to guide them, and see

the region’s botanical and geological specialities on study trails and in dis-

plays. The most varied landscape rolls out from the Szépkilátó (“Fine Viewing

Point”) close to Balatongyörök (C 4) – poets have sung its praises. The wonder-

ful variety of the landscape of the volcanic northern shore is at its most beauti-

ful seen from the Várhegy (“Castle Hill”) in Fonyód (D 4) or Balatonboglár (E 4).

In a semi-circle of dormant volcanoes lies the Káli Basin (DE 3). Although by car it is

only a quarter of an hour’s journey from the bustling life of the shore, it is as if we had

descended into another world. Above the reeds of the salt ponds water-fowl call, cow-

bells ring in the pastures, and there is an Arcadian calm in the small, inviting villages.

Hills Born in Fire

A large part of the northern shore of Lake

Balaton was formed by the earth’s most

powerful force, volcanic activity. The crown

of the cooled basalt volcanoes is now a

tourist paradise. On the side of the basalt

caps of the hills, the flowing lava solidified

in pillar form: as if enormous organ pipes

were sounding praises to the beauty of the

Pannonian landscape. The largest is the

basalt organ of Szent György Hill (D 3), and

its “pipes” have a diameter of one metre.

Standing in the deserted mine yard of

Hegyes-tű (E 3), thousands of basalt pillars

undulate before us like the pleats in a cur-

tain woven from stone.

Basalt organ pipes

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 6

Kis-Balaton (”Little” Balaton)

Tihany Peninsula, “Arany ház” (“Gold House”), geyser cone

Kis-Balaton (“Little” Balaton), herons

7

It is no accident that many film directors, artists and writers have struck camp in one

of the numerous peasant houses. Around the edge of the basin, stone idols guard the

peace of the land. These geological formations, formed by hot volcanic torrents of lava

and by the wind, are a local curiosity, and are popularly known as the stone sea. The

most beautiful is the one in Szentbékkálla (D 3). In this bouquet of rocks, reminiscent of

abstract sculptures, we feel as if we are in the garden of a stone-age wizard.

The old town of Tapolca (D 3), nestling behind Szent György Hill, holds another delight for

those who love the wonders of nature: the lake cave. This too was formed by volcanic activ-

ity: hot water gouged out a labyrinth of winding corridors and halls in the limestone, which

were then flooded by crystal clear karst water. The visitor could be in Charon’s ferry in a mytho-

logical underworld, while rowing around the mysteriously lit, twisting waterway, except that

this is an underworld from which there is a way back. The caves under the town are, inciden-

tally, not only a tourist sight: their climate is ideal for the treatment of serious respiratory dis-

eases. Recently a well-equipped therapeutic hotel was completed, which now offers facilities to

patients taking the cave cure which are worthy of the surroundings.

The vast marshes of the Kis-Balaton (AB 5) at the western end of the lake were for twenty

thousand years the natural filter of the River Zala, which feeds Lake Balaton. Three genera-

tions ago the Zala was diverted to feed directly into Lake Balaton, whose healthy, clear water

was consequently polluted and made muddy by the river for half a century. The problem was

solved by a method adopted nowhere else in the

world: by restoring conditions similar to the original

marsh. The 20-square-kilometre reservoir, completed

fifteen years ago, is now a nature conservation

reserve, where once more birds flock in large numbers,

just as they used to. One particularly charming part, the

Kányavári Island, is open to the general public, for the

pleasure of anglers and nature photographers.

Travelling around the area of the Kis-Balaton the ecotourist

comes across another site: the Kápolnapuszta Buffalo

Reserve. Formerly these animals of fearsome strength were

used for the heaviest work, but gradually more docile and ver-

satile cattle took their place in agriculture. In Europe these grim-

looking animals, descended from bison, can only be found in

Kápolnapuszta (B 6) and Transylvania.

Balatonfüred, statue of theFisherman and the Ferryman

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8

Sport, fitness? Lake Balaton!

When the Siófok Balaton Bathing Company opened its bathing complex in 1893,

amongst the services they offered were items such as: covered skittles, croquet,

lawn-tennis, rowing boats, yachts… Sport has been a part of Balaton bathing cul-

ture right from the start, and is so to this day. The vast expanse of water, the reeds

of the lake and the woods and fields of the countryside contain special hidden

opportunities. At the end of the 19th century the developing bathing culture of Lake

Balaton tried to imitate maritime examples. In this way, sports boats found their way

to the lake, which had previously only known ferries or freight barges. Sailing contin-

ues to be popular to this day. The expanded, renovated landing stages, such as those

at Balatonföldvár (F 3-4), Badacsony (D 4), Szigliget (CD 4), Balatonlelle (E 4) and Siófok

(H 3), are up to EU standards. No secret is made of the aim to win as many yachtsmen

and women as possible from the overcrowded lakes of western Europe to Lake Balaton.

Even Finer from Above

An old Siófok postcard depicts a

glider flying above the harbour.

This shows us that gliding was

already fashionable in the twen-

ties around Lake Balaton. Today

at least twenty places around the

lake offer similar facilities: from

hang gliders, small motorised

planes, helicopters, and even

hot air balloons we can admire

Lake Balaton, whose monumen-

tal beauty is revealed in its true

glory when viewed from the sky.

Sailing competition

L a k e B a l a t o n

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 8

from Hungary and abroad are attracted here by the beautiful

roe deer, the bucks crowned with golden horns, and that

hunter’s special dream, wild boar as large as a grand piano.

At Lake Balaton it is easy to jump into a saddle, because over

the last decade equestrian tourism has developed by leaps and

bounds. Riding tours are organised by the local stables at all of

the larger resorts. For those who prefer to watch the noble

steeds rather than sit astride them, demonstrations are held reg-

ularly. The most famous is the stud farm at Szántódpuszta (G 3).

Cycling enthusiasts should note the Balaton Cycle Path, which encir-

cles the lake. But those who arrive by other means of transport

would also do well to bring a bicycle, because in the high-season a

bicycle gets you around much faster than a car on the crowded roads.

In the larger towns it is easy to find a bicycle repair shop too.

Balatonszabadi-Sóstó, beach

Tihany, bird’s-eye view

9

As well as cruising, yacht racing also has deep roots here. The Balaton yacht races are

favoured primarily by sporting yachters possessing some technique. The complex wind

currents over the lake often puts even their skills to the test. Yachts brought from else-

where can be left at the landing stages, but yachts can also be hired here by those who

do not wish to bother with transportation. Beginners will find a yachting course in all of the

towns on Lake Balaton, where they can even obtain the skipper’s license for small vessels

valid for all inland waters in Europe.

In Balatonfüred (G 2-3) and Siófok (H 3) water ski courses with electrical traction attract lovers

of the sport, and anyone who wishes can learn with the help of an expert. The span-sized bone

hooks in the Balaton Museum in Keszthely (B 4) show that even in prehistoric times the lake

was inhabited by fishing peoples. Hooks of this size are - unfortunately! - not necessary today,

but those with patience and stamina can still take catfish over one-and-a-half metres long, pike-

perch as long as an arm, or carp and white amur of over ten kilograms. Angling tourism is nor-

mally recommended in the early and late parts of the season, because the fish bite less in the

summer heat. It is possible to fish almost everywhere, but a license is necessary, and this can be

obtained in any angling shop. The best fishing waters are in the harbours of the northern shore,

and enthusiastic anglers are drawn willingly to the reedy waters. Those who wish to combine a

pleasant holiday with hunting experiences could do a lot worse than choose Lake Balaton, because

a significant part of the best hunting area in Hungary, Külső-Somogy (“Outer Somogy”) and

Bakonyalja (”Bakony foothills”), is to be found in this region. From year to year hundreds of hunters

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 9

Fine Towns, Interesting Activities

L a k e B a l a t o n

10

Keszthely (B 4) is the oldest of the towns around Lake Balaton. Many of its small streets faithfully preserve the small-town atmos-

phere of the 19th century. For centuries, a decisive factor in the development and culture of Keszthely was the presence of the

Festetics family, one of the richest Hungarian aristocratic families. Their Baroque stately home, today a museum, is one of the finest

monuments in the Balaton region. Each week in the summer concerts are held in the park and the splendid rooms. The Balaton

Museum is also a delight: its dioramas and show cases present the formation of the lake, the natural world, archaeological finds, the

region’s folk culture, and the history of the bathing culture. The nave of the Roman Catholic church is from Medieval times, and the

frescos are held to be the finest creations of Hungarian Gothic. The city hosts the summer Balaton Festival and the Balaton Autumn.

Tours and Sights around Keszthely• Hiking tour in the Keszthely hills, Rezi Castle (Rezi – B 3)

• Buddhist shrine (stupa) in Zalaszántó (B 3)

• Balatonederics (C 4), Africa Museum

Keszthely, palace

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Tihany Abbey

Tihany, Abbey Church, interior

11

Badacsony (D 4) is the most famous wine-growing hill of the Balaton region. It is

here that the grapes which go to making Badacsony Pinot Gris and Kéknyelű are

grown. On the southern slope of the 437 m basalt hill hikers can sample the excel-

lent restaurants and wine bars. At the summit the Kisfaludy Lookout offers a memo-

rable panorama. Down below, not far from the harbour we find the house of József

Egry, the painter of Lake Balaton, which is now a museum in his memory. The region

hosts the Badacsony Vintage Days.

Excursions from Badacsony• Hiking tour to the Szigliget Castle (Szigliget – CD 4)

• Tapolca (D 3), the cave lake and the Mill Lake

• Szent György Hill (D 3), organ-pipe basalt formations

One of the most obvious points in the landscape of the northern shore, just as it is on the map, is

the Tihany Peninsula (FG 3). On the smaller hill, a church and monastery was built in Tihany (G 3)

nine centuries ago. The royal document ordering the construction, the Deed of Foundation of

Tihany, contains the oldest words written in Hungarian in a Latin context. Today only the

Romanesque crypt, supported by squat columns, can be seen, and above it a Baroque Abbey has

been built. The entire area of the peninsula is protected, and special sights include the Inner Lake

(good for fishing), the cones formed by geysers, the Aranyház and lavender fields. The museums of

Tihany are: the Benedictine Abbey Museum, the Open Air Ethnographical Museum (peasant farm

house and house of the fishermen’s guild) and the Doll Museum.

Sümeg, Castle games

Keszthely, baroque concert

Excursions and Hikes on the Tihany Peninsula and its surrounds• Hiking tour on the peninsula: Echo hill, Outer Lake,

monks’ cells

• Örvényes (F 3), Mill Museum

• Protected cemetery at Balatonudvari (F 3)with

unusual heart-shaped carved tombstones

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 11

Fine Towns, Interesting Activities

L a k e B a l a t o n

12

Although Balatonfüred (G 2-3) got its name not from the baths (”fürdő”) but from the quails (”fürj”), it was here that the Lake Balaton bathing

culture was born in the 17th century. At first it was visited for the carbonated spring water, but in the second half of the 19th century, when

bathing in Lake Balaton had become fashionable, the lake’s first bathing house was constructed here from red pines. Balatonfüred is a town of

“firsts” in other respects too. It was here that the first steam boat, named Kisfaludy, was built in 1846, and set out on her maiden voyage; later the

first yachts were also made here; and the first stone theatre producing plays in Hungarian once operated here. All this opened a new era in Hungarian

tourism history. It is a good idea to start your stroll around Balatonfüred in the two-hundred-year-old Gyógy tér (“Health Square”), by the famous spring,

then walking along the park (more than a hundred years old) and the waterside promenade called “Tagore sétány” you come to one of the most beau-

tiful harbours of the lake. In addition to the unusual shape of the nearby Kerektemplom (“Round Church”), its frescos and paintings are also of interest

to tourists. A few minutes from here is the villa of one of the princes of Hungarian literature, Mór Jókai, which today is a memorial museum.

Excursions from BalatonfüredHiking tours: By car to Veszprém (G 1):

• the Lóczy cave, • the Baroque archbishop’s palace, the cathedral and the Gothic Gizella Chapel

• the Tamás Hill Lookout (G 2) • the Queen Gizella Diocesan Museum

• the Koloska valley • the Dezső Laczkó Museum

• the Kálmán Kittenberger Garden and Game Park

Balatonfüred, boat landing

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 12

Tihany, concert

Balatonfüred, Jókai Memorial Museum

Tapolca, Mill Lake

13

Balatonföldvár (F 3-4) is the most orderly settlement on the lakeside, and was pur-

pose-built as a holiday resort at the end of the 19th century. Its wonderful parks, and

masterfully planned streets and promenades show the fine taste of the most pro-

gressive of Hungarian aristocratic families, the Széchenyis, and also the technique of

the planner and engineer István Spur, who later became Government Commissioner for

the Balaton. The choice of location for the town was also spot-on: on a clear day the eye

can trace the shore from Balatonföldvár all the way (200 km) down the lake. The resort

also boasts the finest harbour of the lake.

Excursions from Balatonföldvár• On foot: Kőröshegy (G4), Gothic church

• By car: Igal (G6), thermal bath, Balatonboglár (E4), spherical lookout tower,

Red Chapel (open-air performances), vintage festival in August

Siófok (H 3) is – the summer capital and the busiest tourist centre in Hungary. Its resort and

villa area was built at the end of the 19th century as the greatest tourism undertaking of the

time. The world-famous composer of operetta, Imre Kálmán, is a son of Siófok, where there is

today a museum in memory of him. In the spirit of the cult of Kálmán, for two months each

summer an operetta gala evening is held each week. In the Catholic parish church organ

recitals and master classes are held. With its huge discos, Siófok is a place of “pilgrimage” for

young people. Their overriding favourite is the Beach House, built on the Nagystrand (“Main

Beach”) a couple of years ago, with sports during the day and rock concerts in the evening.

The town hosts the season-opening festival at Whitsun and the Golden Cockle Folklore Festival.

Excursions from Siófok• On foot: Törek nature conservation reserve (GH 3–4)

• By car: Szántódpuszta (G 3), Farm museum, Balaton

Aquarium and horse shows

• By boat: Tihany Peninsula (FG 3), Balatonfüred (G 2-3)

Balatonföldvár

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 13

The Colours and Sounds of Folklore

L a k e B a l a t o n

14

Hungary guards her folk traditions jealously, and this applies equally around Lake Balaton. All the

settlements around the lake and in the environs hold some manner of summer festival, wine week,

or fair and the most colourful attraction is folk dancing. The special feature of Hungarian folk dances

is that they always give a place to individual bravura. For the solos (the lads’ dances, shepherds’ stick

dances, and girls’ bottle dances) hours of practice and almost acrobatic dexterity are required. The

“csárda” (a rustic restaurant) is one of the birthplaces of dance. In times of old, it was most often here,

in the yard, on the beaten floor, that people would dance, and large communal parties were held here.

The girls strutted around in their best costumes, and the lads would compete to be best in the village,

showing their strength and nimbleness with tempestuous dances. It is a pleasure to record that today

dances can be seen in the renovated old csárdas once more. The everyday life and business of village folk

of times gone by is represented by a rich collection of monuments on the southern shore, not far from the

ferry landing stage, in Szántódpuszta (G 3). Around 30 intact buildings in the puszta give a picture of 19th-

century farm life. Barns, stables, smithy, farmhouse, inn – here you can find everything that would have been

a necessary accessory for the business centre of a large piece of land. The buildings are furnished in contem-

porary style, and art exhibitions are often held here, the theme being, naturally, Lake Balaton. The puszta has a

wonderful stud farm, and from June to September a horse show is held every morning. The only aquarium show-

ing the fauna and flora of Lake Balaton is also to be seen in Szántódpuszta.

Golden CockleFor years now in Siófok (H 3),

the Golden Cockle

International Folklore

Festival has been one of the

most high profile events of

the “summer capital”. The

folk music and dance groups

from various parts of the

world charm the “whole

world” to the shores of Lake

Balaton for a week in July

with their performances.

Tihany, folklore days

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 14

Harvest celebration in the Upper Balaton

Szent György Hill Olaszrizling (Laski Riesling)

Badacsony, wineyards

15

Vines were brought to the region two thousand years ago by the Romans. The soil and cli-

mate of the Balaton region favours this delicate plant, and now Lake Balaton has become

almost synonymous with good wines. Badacsony wine is a veritable legend. The reason for

the excellent quality is the soil, containing volcanic rock, the Mediterranean climate of the

sheltered southern slope and what is known as secondary radiation, the sunlight reflected

from Lake Balaton, which doubles the strength of the rays. The best known wines of the

Badacsony region are Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris) and Kéknyelű, but the Olaszrizling (Laski Rizling),

the Rizlingszilváni (Müller-Thurgau), the Ottonell Muskotály (Muscat Ottonel), and Tramini are

also delicious. Many characteristics of the Balatonfüred-Csopak region (G 2-3) are similar to

those of Badacsony (D 4). Although the wines here are also fiery and strong, they have a more

elegant character than those from the neighbouring region. The typical grapes of the region are

the Rajnai Rizling (Rhein Riesling), Olaszrizling (Laski Riesling) and Chardonnay, but on the Tihany

hills black grapes also grow: Merlot, Zweigelt and Cabernet Franc. Somló Hill is also a famous

wine-growing region, if a little further from the lake. Its vintage was formerly known as the “wed-

ding night wine”, for it was widely believed that those who drink it give birth to baby boys. For

centuries Somló wine was indispensable at royal wedding banquets. Today the side of the well-

formed volcanic remnant hill is planted mainly with Furmint, Olaszrizling, but this is also the last

bastion of an old Hungarian variety, Juhfark. A large area of

the wine growing region next to Lake Balaton is encircled by

the southern slopes of the Keszthely hills and the Káli Basin

(DE 3). Many varieties of white grapes grow in these parts, but

the most famous is the locally selected Cserszegi fűszeres

(“spicy wine of Cserszeg”), the wine of which, with its spicy

bouquet and nose, has won a dozen or so competitions. Grapes

have long been cultivated on the southern shore of Lake Balaton

too. The varieties grown are no different from those on the other

shore, but the sandy loess soil lends them an entirely different

flavour. In these parts, the cellars mature smooth, fruity wines, rich

in aromas. Perhaps the only exception are those grown on the side of

Castle Hill in Fonyód (D 4) and Balatonbolgár (E 4), because the two

small hills - just like their larger brothers on the opposite shore - are also

the result of volcanic activity. The largest single vineyards can be found

on the border of Balatonboglár.

Balaton Wine Guide

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Secrets of Balaton Cuisine

L a k e B a l a t o n

16

Fish undoubtedly take pride of place amongst the dishes of Lake Balaton,

the “king” being Balaton pike-perch. This predator of the perch family can

weigh up to 9-10 kg. and measure 120 cm. Its flesh is snowy white, flaky,

boneless, with a fresh taste, so it is no accident that it has been at the top of

the Balaton menus for centuries. The classical way to cook it is to fry it whole.

Halászlé (fish soup) deserves a paragraph to itself. It was first mentioned in

writing in the 1800’s, around Lake Balaton. The contract made between the

Festetics rulers in Keszthely (B 4) and the fishermen required the latter, on spe-

cial occasions, to cook fish soup for the Count’s guests. Fish soup is best when

made from as many fish as possible, but it is the carp and catfish which really add

the final touch.

Napoleon and Fish Soup

This splendid, typically Hungarian

country dish is believed by many to

owe its existence, indirectly, to

Napoleon. When at the beginning

of the 19th century the Emperor

wanted to bring England to its

knees with a blockade, pepper van-

ished from European markets. The

resourceful Hungarian peasants

substituted dried red paprika (a

capsicum), ground to a powder,

and the new spice later became

symbolic of Hungarian cuisine.

Csobánc

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 16

Csopak, Malomcsárda (“Mill Inn”)

Pike-perch

Badacsony, House of Róza Szegedi

17

Most foreigners know Hungarian cuisine for the paprika dishes, the goulash, and the

stews, but the vegetable dishes are also individual and delightful. Hungarian cuisine

treats vegetables in an unusual manner. While in Europe and North America vegetables

normally arrive at the table simply steamed, in Hungary they are enriched with roux, sour

cream, sometimes thickened with flour or cream, or served with the spiced water they were

cooked in, as a “főzelék” (a kind of cream soup). Marrow főzelék with sour cream and dill

has even won the hearts of French gourmets. Other splendid dishes are Hungarian bean

főzelék with smoked knuckle of ham, cabbage with roast side of bacon, or lentil főzelék with

Debrecen sausage. First prize, though, has to go to stuffed cabbage. A head of cabbage is cut

into slices, boiled with pepper, paprika and onion, and then spicy minced meat with rice is

wrapped in the cabbage leaves. It is crowned with sour cream and a curly, golden crispy edge of

bacon. Try it!

It is also worth tasting game while staying by Lake Balaton. From the expansive forests of the

Bakony foothills, the Keszthely hill, and the Somogy hills, roe deer, stags, wild boar, moufflon

and fallow deer, while from the large meadows hare, pheasant, and partridge are available for

the table. A little appetizer: venison in red wine with blackcurrant jam and croquette potatoes,

or back of hare, hunter’s style, with dumplings.

Finally, goulash cooked in a cauldron must also be mentioned here. Those who come first time from

abroad to Lake Balaton should make this dish, this “prince of peasant cooking”, their first appoint-

ment with Hungarian cuisine. We hope you enjoy both the food, and your trip to Lake Balaton.

“Born” here

One of the most famous dishes of the Balaton region,

the Csáky stuffed roast was “born” in Balatonfüred at

the beginning of the 20th century. At the time, the

Palace Sanatorium in Balatonfüred ran a kitchen famous

all over the country, with Sándor Csáky the chief chef. One

of the peaks of his twenty-five-year career by Lake Balaton

was roast beef stuffed with egg letcho (capsicum peppers)

served in a sour cream and paprika, which soon found its

way onto the menu of all the “best hotels”.

Fish soup

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:52 Page 17

Famous Springs, Places of Healing

L a k e B a l a t o n

18

The most beautiful parts of the landscape around Lake Balaton

were formed by volcanic action, and even 2.5 million years after the

extinction of the volcanoes their effect, though tamed, can still be

felt. Dozens of sulphuric and carbonated springs burst from the

ground along the lakeside, and in most of them people have sought

(and found) healing for centuries. The most famous is the spring at

Hévíz (B 4), which breaks to the surface at the foothills of the Keszthely

hills. This is actually a geyser whose crater lake creates a natural bath of

therapeutic water at 38°C. Only in Iceland can anything similar be found.

The sulphuric, mildly radioactive water of the Hévíz lake is just as excellent

for the treatment of locomotor diseases as the mud from the bottom of the

lake. The Hévíz lake is a sight to behold, particularly at the end of summer,

when the red lilies from India flower in their thousands. Around the lake there

are dozens of therapeutic hotels and sanatoriums.

A Glance at the Calendar of EventsBalatonfüred (G 2-3) is the venue and host

for many quality events. To start the season

there is the festival of the first boat, in April.

The first of the fleet of cruising ships coming

out from winter harbour in Siófok (H 3)

stops before anywhere else at Balatonfüred,

to commemorate the fact that the very first

Balaton steam ship set out from here. Since

it was also here that the yachting life of the

lake had its beginnings, the Unfurling of the

Sails Festival is held each May in the

Balatonfüred harbour. The oldest and most

famous event of July in Balatonfüred is the

Anna Ball, held each year since 1825. At the

end of the summer the Balatonfüred Wine

Week attracts visitors from far abroad.

Hévíz

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Balatonfüred, Kossuth Spring

Balatonfüred, Anna Ball

19

During a search for oil in the 60s, splendid curative waters less than half an hour’s drive

from the western end of Lake Balaton were discovered in the village of Zalakaros (A 6) The

formerly unknown village has since then grown into a flourishing bathing resort, with com-

fortable hotels, guest houses, and restaurants offering genuine Hungarian cuisine. Its mod-

ern baths are recommended to those suffering from locomotor and respiratory disorders, but

is also excellent for the treatment of gynaecological problems. The recently completed bathing

complex guarantees a pleasant break for young, healthy fitness enthusiasts too.

The first water of the Balaton region to be used for healing was the carbonated spring of

Balatonfüred: a bathing house stood beside it as far back as the 1700’s. Although modern

cardiology has long since moved on from the carbonated bath cure, the former sanatorium

next to the spring has become a medical institution known all over the country: Balatonfüred

is referred to as the Mecca for those suffering from heart disease. In front of the Cardiological

Hospital, in a colonnade on Gyógy tér (Gyógy square) is the Kossuth Spring, and many come

to taste its cool, refreshingly sparkling water.

Relaxation in nature

Zalakaros fun bath

Medicinal massage

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:53 Page 19

20

Directions

L a k e B a l a t o n

Hungarian National Tourist Office

Balaton Regional Tourist Project OfficeBalatonfüred, H–8230 Blaha L. u. 2.

Tel: +36-87-342-801, fax: +36-87-342-871

E-mail: [email protected]

[email protected]

www.bis.hu, www.balaton-tourism.hu

Alsóörs, H–8226 Strand sétány 1.

Tel/fax: +36-87-575-001

(seasonal office, open: 01.06–31.08)

E-mail: [email protected]

Badacsony, H–8261 Park u. 6.

Tel/fax: +36-87-431-046, tel: +36-87-531-013

E-mail: [email protected]

Balatonalmádi, H–8220 Városház tér 4.

Tel/fax: +36-88-594-080, tel: +36-88-594-081

E-mail: [email protected]

Balatonboglár, H–8630 Erzsébet u. 12-14.

Tel/fax: +36-85-550-168

E-mail: [email protected]

Balatonföldvár, H–8623 Széchenyi I. u. 2.

(seasonal office, open: 15.06–15.09)

Tel/fax: +36-84-540-220, tel: +36-84-700-036

H–8623 Kőröshegyi út 1.

Tel/fax: +36-84-540-220, tel: +36-84-700-036

E-mail: [email protected]

Balatonfüred, H–8230 Petőfi u. 68.

Tel: +36-87-580-480, fax: +36-87-580-481

E-mail: [email protected]

Balatonkenese, H–8174 Táncsics M. u. 24.

Tel/fax: +36-88-491-904

E-mail: [email protected]

Balatonvilágos, H–8171 Dózsa Gy. u. 1.

Tel/fax: +36-88-446-034

E-mail: [email protected]

Buzsák, H–8695 Fő tér 1/A

Tel/fax: +36-85-530-070

E-mail: [email protected]

Fonyód, H–8640 Ady Endre u. 1.

Tel/fax: +36-85-363-170

E-mail: [email protected]

Gyenesdiás, H–8315 Kossuth L. u. 97.

Tel/fax: +36-83-511-790

E-mail: [email protected]

Keszthely, H–8360 Kossuth L. u. 28.

Tel/fax: +36-83-314-144,

Tel: +36-83-511-660, +36-83-511-661

E-mail: [email protected]

Révfülöp, H–8253 Villa Filip tér 8/b

Tel/fax: +36-87-463-092, tel: +36-87-463-194

E-mail: [email protected]

Siófok, H–8600 Víztorony (Water tower)

P.O.Box 75

Tel/fax: +36-84-315-355, +36-84-310-117

E-mail: [email protected]

Tapolca, H–8300 Fő tér 17.

Tel: +36-87-510-777, fax: +36-87-510-778

E-mail: [email protected]

Tihany, H–8237 Kossuth L. u. 20.

Tel/fax: +36-87-448-804, tel: +36-87-438-016

E-mail: [email protected]

Zalakaros, H–8749 Gyógyfürdő tér 10.

Tel/fax: +36-93-340-421

E-mail: [email protected]

Zamárdi, H–8621 Kossuth L. u. 16.

Tel: +36-84-345-291, +36-84-545-052, +36-84-545-053,

fax: +36-84-345-290

E-mail: [email protected]

Tourinform-hotline (0–24 h):

06-80-630-800 (within Hungary)

+36-30-30-30-600

Tourinform call centre (0–24 h): +36-1-438-80-80

Post: Budapest 1548

Fax: +36-1-488-86-61

E-mail: [email protected]

www.tourinform.hu

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:53 Page 20

Events

Balaton Festival Keszthely (B 4) May

Opening of Season, Unfurling of Sails Balatonfüred (G 3) May

Whitsun Opening of Season Siófok (H 3) May/June

Golden Cockle Folklore Festival Siófok (H 3) July

Blue Ribbon Grand Prix, yacht race Balatonfüred (G 3) July

Anna Ball Balatonfüred (G 3) July

Rowing race across the Balaton Alsóörs-Siófok-Alsóörs (G 2 - H 3) July

Swimming Competition across the Balaton Révfülöp-Balatonboglár (E 4) July

Wine Weeks Balatonfüred (G 3) August

Balatonlelle wine week Balatonlelle (E 4) August

Badacsony Vintage Badacsony (D 4) September

For further information about these events, please contact our representative, the Tourinform-hotline of Tourinform or our Project Office.

Published by The Hungarian National Tourist Office

Design and print: Geomédia • Photo: Hungarian National Tourist Office Photo and Slides Archives• Map: Paulus

www.hungarytourism.hu

Dear Visitor,The Hungarian National Tourist Office endeavours always to provide prospective visitors withuseful and relevant information. Wherever possible we aim to plan our publications on thebasis of what is of most interest to you and, for this reason, we would like in the near futureto send you a short questinnaire concerning your views on the usefulness of the informationin this brochure. If you would like to take part, please fill in the coupon, giving your NAME,ADDRESS and E-MAIL ADDRESS (if applicable), and return it to The Hungarian national touristOffice, H-1548 Budapest, Hungary. Alternatively the same details may be sent by e-mail [email protected]. The names of all participants will be entered in a Prize Drawto take place in May of each year. The prize is a weekend for two in a Hungarian hotel includ-ing full board and travel (from any destination served by a MALÉV Hungarian Airlines’ sched-uled flight). The winner will be notified in writing.

Hungarian National Tourist Office • www.hungarytourism.hu

Surname: Forename:

Address:

E-mail:

The above personal details are submitted on the understanding that the Hungarian NationalTourist Office will use them for its own marketing purposes and surveys. They will not bepassed to third parties.Data Compliance Register No. 359-0001 (Magyar Turizmus Rt.).

General Information on the Balaton RegionAmbulance: 104

Police: 107

Fire brigade: 105

Wine Tour AssociationsCsopak area Wine Tour AssociationCsopak, H–8228 Vámosi u.1.

Balatonfüred and Surrounds Wine Tour AssociationBalatonfüred, H–8230 P. Horváth Á. u. 36/D

Zánka and Nivegy Valley Wine Tour AssociationSzentantalfa, H–8272 Sári u. 50.

Dörgicse and Surrounds Wine Tour AssociationBalatonudvari, H–8242 Ady Endre u. 16.

Badacsony Wine Region Wine Tour AssociationBadacsony, H–8261 Római u. 2.

Da Bibere Upper Balaton Wine Tour AssociationBalatongyörök, H–8313 Kossuth L. u. 26.E-mail: [email protected]

Southern Balaton Wine Tour AssociationBalatonboglár, H–8630 Erzsébet u. 11.

Upper Balaton Wine Tour AssociationZalahaláp, H–8308 Petőfi S. u. 4.

Zala Wine Tour Association – Zalakaros and surroundsTürje, H–8796 Ságvári u. 1.Tel: +36-83-556-020, + 336-83-556-021E-mail: [email protected]

Zalavár–Sármellék Airport Ltd.Sármellék, H–8391 P.O.Box 4.

Tel/fax: +36-83-355-500, +36-83355-002 (tower)

E-mail: [email protected]

Life guardsTel: +36-87-568-599, +36-87-568-168

www.vizimentok.hu

E-mail: [email protected]

Balaton Shipping Co.Siófok, H–8600 Krúdy sétány 2.

Tel: +36-84-312-144, +36-20-97-22-500,

fax: +36-84-312-907

E-mail: [email protected]

balaton_2004_GB_vegleges.qxd 2004.01.16. 15:53 Page 21

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L a k e B a l a t o n

AustriaUngarisches TourismusamtA-1010 Wien, Opernring 5/2. Stk.Tel:(43 1) 585 20 1213, 585 20 1214Fax: (43 1) 585 20 1215E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]

BelgiumOffice du Tourisme de Hongrie (Hongaars Verkeersbureau)B-1050 Bruxelles, Avenue Louise 365(B-1050 Brussel, 365 Loizalaan)Tel: (32 2) 346 8630, 648 5282Fax: (32 2) 344 6967E-mail: [email protected]

Czech RepublicMadarská Turistika140 21 Praha 4, 5. kvetna 65Tel: (420 261) 174 166, 174 167Fax: (420 261) 174 169E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]; faliujsag.hungarytourism.cz

DenmarkUngarns Turistkontor (Information Office)DK 2100 Köbenhavn Ö, Strandvejen 6Tel: (45 39) 161 350 (M-Th 9-12 a. m.;from 12:30-14:30p. m.; F: from 9-12 a. m.)Fax: (45 39) 161 355E-mail: [email protected]

FinlandUnkarin Matkailutoimisto (Information Office)00100 Helsinki, Kaisaniemenkatu 10Tel: (358 9) 8240 1040from 9 a. m. – 2 p. m. local time(8 a. m. – 1 p. m. Hungarian time),ansvwering machine outside these hoursFax: (358 9) 8240 1041E-mail: [email protected]; [email protected]

FranceOffice du Tourisme de Hongrie75116 Paris, 140 avenue Victor HugoTel: (33 1) 5370 6717, 5370 6718Fax: (33 1) 4704 8357E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]; minitel: 3615othongrie

GermanyUngarisches Tourismusamt D-10178 Berlin, Neue Promenade 5Tel: (49 30) 243 146 0Fax: (49 30) 243 146 13E-mail: [email protected]

Ungarisches Tourismusamt D-80637 München, Dom Pedro Str. 17Tel: (49 89) 1211 5230, 1211 5253Fax: (49 89) 1211 5251E-mail: [email protected]

Ungarisches Tourismusamt D-60313 Frankfurt, An der Hauptwache 11Tel: (49 69) 9288 460Fax: (49 69) 9288 4613E-mail: [email protected]

IrelandHungarian National Tourist OfficeDublin 2, Hungarian Embassy, 2 FitzWilliam PlaceTel: (353 1) 6612 879Fax: (353 1) 6612 885E-mail: [email protected]

IsraelHungarian National Tourist Office63401 Tel-Aviv, Ben Jehuda St. 101.Tel: (972 3) 527 5004Fax: (972 3) 527 4483E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]

ItalyUfficio Turistico Ungherese20145 Milano, Via Alberto Da Giussano 1.Tel: (39 02) 4819 5434Fax: (39 02) 4801 0268E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]

Information Office00187 Roma, Via Sallustiana 23.Tel/fax: (39 06) 4744 836E-mail: [email protected]

JapanHungarian National Tourist Office106-0031 Tokyo, Minato-ku, Nishiazabu 4-16-13, 28 Mori Building 11FTel: (81 3) 3499 4953Fax:(81 3) 3499 4944E-mail: [email protected]

NetherlandsHongaars Verkeersbureau2593 BS Den Haag, Laan van Nieuw Oost Indie 271Tel: (31 70) 320 9092Fax: (31 70) 327 2833E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]

PolandNarodowe Przedstawicielstwo TurystykiWegierskiej w Polsce00-464 Warszawa, ul. Szwolezerów 10.Tel: (48 22) 841 3024Fax: (48 22) 841 4157E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]

RomaniaConsulatul General al Republicii Ungare,Sectia Turism3400 Cluj-Napoca, C.P. 352Tel/fax: (40 264) 440 547E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]

RussiaBuro sovetnika po turizmu Posolstva VengerskoyRespubliki(���� ����� � �� ������ �������������� �� ������� �)123242 Moszkva, Krasznaja Presznya ul. 1-7(� �� 123242 "�� ��, ��. %�����& ����& '.1-7.)Tel: (70 95) 363 3962/3241, 3287, 3288 extensionsFax: (70 95) 363 3963E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]

SpainOficina Nacional de Turismo de Hungría28020 Madrid, Avenida de Brasil 17, Piso 10, Puerta BTel: (34 91) 556 9348Fax: (34 91) 556 9869E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]

SwedenUngerska Turistbyran I NordenS-114 34 Stockholm, Birger Jarlsgatan 22.Tel: (46 8) 20 40 40 (from 9 a. m. – 3 p. m.,answering machine outside these hours)Fax: (46 8) 611 7647E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]; www.ungarnturisme.com

SwitzerlandUngarisches TourismusamtCH-8035 Zürich, Stampfenbach Str. 78Tel: (41 1) 361 1414Fax: (41 1) 361 3939E-mail: [email protected]; [email protected]; [email protected]

UkraineKomercijnij Viddil Posolstva Ugorskoji RespublikiInformacijne Bjuro ”Ugorshina-Turizm”01034 Kijev, vul. Striletska 16.Tel/fax: (380 44) 228 0842E-mail: [email protected]; [email protected]

United KingdomHungarian National Tourist OfficeSW1X 8 AL London, 46. Eaton PlaceTel: (44 207) 823 1032, 823 1055Fax: (44 207) 823 1459E-mail: [email protected]; [email protected]

United States of AmericaHungarian National Tourist OfficeN.Y. 10155-3398 New York,150 East 58th Street, 33rd FloorTel: (1 212) 355 0240, fax: (1 212) 207 4103E-mail: [email protected];[email protected]

Representations of the Hungarian National Tourist Office

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