1Inspired Food Culture Jul y 2011

GET IT WHILEIT’S HOT

from drab to delicious

MOFUTOFUkitchen innovation

COMPRESSED FRUITasian inspiration

VISITINGVIETNAM

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis feastSTL.com | JULY 2011 | FREE

feastSTL.com JULY 201158

WRITTEN BY Brandi Wills

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Geo! Cardin

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/#0,' 0),1("',*2-%$30', 4"%5 '*05()*5%) &"(6(" ,' -##+,)403 '#$(*.,)4 0),70(:small-batch artisan tofumadefrom locally grown soybeans.He calls the stu8MOFU.Theinspiration for this venturecame fromamaster’s-levelgastronomy course inwhich

Brewer and a classmateexplored creating global flavors

from local ingredients. “I hadnever had tofu like [whatwe

made for that project],” he says.Fresh, nu9yflavor and a light,

porous texture give itmore bodythan is expected from tofu, andBrewer a9ributes this tomaking

small batches and tomakingeach batch by hand. “I try as hardas possible to accentuate thebeany, nu9y qualities,” he says,“which iswhat a lot ofmakers

try to hide.”Through his e8orts,Brewer hasmanaged to give amild-mannered ingredient a bit

of personality.Who knew?

MOFU$%+('TOFU

!MOFU"#$%#PREP.Brewer drives to a co-op in Clarence, Mo., to pickup about a half-ton of non-GMO, identity-preservedbeans. He brings the shelled and pre-washed clear hilumsoybeans back to his kitchen at SLU’s Salus Center. Eachindividual batch of tofu is made from about 30 pounds ofbeans. | 1 | The beans are soaked for 19 to 24 hours andthen sorted to remove burrs and rocks.

GO. | 2 | The beans are placed in an enormous pot withabout 20 liters of water and puréed with a Robot Coupepower mixer that looks like a giant immersion blender. | 3 |The puréeing process makes the mixture very foamy.Brewer could use a defoaming agent during this step, buthe says, “I want to keep everything as pure as possible.”More water is added until about 80 liters have been mixedinto the purée, which at this phase is calledgo in Japanese.

COOK.The go is then cooked to 100ºC to make soy milk.| 4 | Brewer has to stir the go constantly, as the equipmenthe uses cooks from the outside in. Soy milk can alsobe made cold, but Brewer prefers the hot method, as itgives the resulting milk a nu&ier flavor. Once it reachestemperature, the go cooks for 20 to 25 minutes.

STRAIN.Brewer manually strains the soy milk, makingthis step the longest part of the tofu-making process.| 5 | The liquid is poured through a makeshi' chinois, andthe pulp le'behind, called okara in Japanese, is pressedin the strainer to get the maximum fat and flavor intothe resulting soy milk. Okara can be used to add fiber inbaking applications or to make soysage (soy sausage).Right now, Brewer composts his okara, but he is hoping tofind a local hog farmer who might use it for feed.

COAGULATE.A pitcher of soy milk is pulled from the vatand cooled before being mixed with a coagulant, suchas calcium chloride. In the meantime, the vat of milk isreheated to 85ºC. Before adding the coagulant mixture,Brewer uses a large paddle to create a whirlpool e(ect inthe vat so the coagulant will disperse evenly throughoutthe milk. | 6 | He also pours the mixture over the paddleso it will splash in droplets into the milk. A'er a quick andfinal stir, the milk sits for 15 minutes so the proteins cancoagulate to create curds.

MOLD. | 7 | The curds and whey are poured into muslin-lined perforated hotel pans, where the whey is strainedthrough and the curds are le'behind to form tofu. | 8 | Themuslin is wrapped around the curds, and water-filled pansare set on top to press the tofu. The more time and weightused in the pressing process, the firmer the tofu will be.

CUT.When the desired firmness is reached, the tofu isremoved from the pans. | 9 | Brewer cuts o( the slopededges formed during molding (he uses those strips tomake some delicious soy jerky) to create uniform blocks.|10 | The blocks of tofu are then cut into 3-inch-by-3-inchsquares and placed in a vat of cold water until they areready to be packaged, sealed and sold.

T h e p u r é e i n g p r o c e s s m a ke s t h e m i xt u r e v er y f oa m y. B r ew er c o u l d u s e a d e fo a m i n g a g e n t d u r i n g t h i s s t e p , b u th e s a y s , “ I wa n t t o ke e p ev er y t h i n g a s p u r e a s p o s s i b l e .” M o r e wa t e r i s a d d e d u n t i l a b o u t 8 0 l i t e r s h a ve b e e n m i xe d i n t o t h e p u r é e , w h i c h a t t h i s p h a s e i s c a l l e d

C O O K .| 4

h e u s e s c o o k s f r o m t h e o u t s i d e i n . S oy m i l k c a n a l s ob e m a d e c o l d , b u t B r ew er p r e fe r s t h e h o t m e t h o d , a s i tg i ve s t h e r e s u l t i n g m i l k a n u & i e r fl a vo r. O n c e i t r e a c h e st e m p e ra t u r e , t h e g o c o o k s f or 2 0 t o 2 5 m i n u t e s .

S TR A I N .t h i s s t e p t h e l o n g e s t p a r t o f t h e t o f u - m a ki n g p r o c e s s .| 5

t h e p u l p l e ' b e h i n d , c a l l e d i n t h e s t ra i n e r t o g e t t h e m a xi m u m f at a n d fl a vo r i n t ot h e r e s u l t i n g s oy m i l k . O ka ra c a n b e u s e d t o a d d fi b e r i nb a ki n g a p p l i c a t i o n s o r t o m a ke s oy s a g e ( s oy s a u s a g e ) .R i g h t n ow , B r ew er c o m p o s t s h i s o ka ra , b u t h e i s h o p i n g t ofi n d a l o c a l h o g f ar m e r w h o m i g h t u s e i t f or f ee d .

C OA GU L AT E .a n d c o o l e d b e fo r e b e i n g m i xe d w i t h a c o a g u l a n t , s u c ha s c a l c i u m c h l o r i d e . I n t h e m e a n t i m e , t h e v at o f m i l k i sr e h e a t e d t o 8 5 º C . B e fo r e a d d i n g t h e c o a g u l a n t m i xt u r e ,B r ew er u s e s a l a r g e p a d d l e t o c r e a t e a w h i r l p o o l e ( e c t i nt h e v at s o t h e c o a g u l a n t w i l l d i s p e r s e e ve n l y t h r o u g h o u tt h e m i l k . s o i t w i l l s p l a s h i n d r o p l e t s i n t o t h e m i l k . A ' e r a q u i c k a n dfi n a l s t i r, t h e m i l k s i t s f or 1 5 m i n u t e s s o t h e p r o t e i n s c a nc o a g u l a t e t o c r e a t e c u r d s .

M O L D .l i n e d p e r fo ra t e d h o t e l p a n s , w h e r e t h e w h ey i s s t ra i n e d t h r o u g h a n d t h e c u r d s a r e l e ' b e h i n d t o fo r m t o f u . m u s l i n i s w ra p p e d a r o u n d t h e c u r d s , a n d w at e r - fi l l e d p a n sa r e s e t o n t o p t o p r e s s t h e t o f u . T h e m o r e t i m e a n d w ei g h tu s e d i n t h e p r e s s i n g p r o c e s s , t h e fi r m e r t h e t o f u w i l l b e .

C U T. W h e n t h e d e s i r e d fi r m n e s s i s r e a c h e d , t h e t o f u i sr e m ov ed f r o m t h e p a n s . e d g e s f or m e d d u r i n g m o l d i n g ( h e u s e s t h o s e s t r i p s t om a ke s o m e d e l i c i o u s s oy j e r k y ) t o c r e a t e u n i fo r m b l o c k s .| 1 0 | T h e b l o c k s o f t o f u a r e t h e n c u t i n t o 3 - i n c h - by - 3 - i n c hs q u a r e s a n d p l a c e d i n a v at o f c o l d w at e r u n t i l t h ey a r er e a d y t o b e p a c ka g e d , s e a l e d a n d s o l d .

! MOFU " #$ % # B r ew er d r i ve s t o a c o - o p i n C l a r e n c e , M o . , t o p i c k

u p a b o u t a h a l f - t o n o f n o n - G M O , i d e n t i t y - p r e s e r ve db e a n s . H e b r i n g s t h e s h e l l e d a n d p r e - wa s h e d c l e a r h i l u m s oy b e a n s b a c k t o h i s k it c h e n a t S L U ’s S a l u s C e n t e r. E a c hi n d i v i d u a l b a t c h o f t o f u i s m a d e f r o m a b o u t 3 0 p o u n d s o f

T h e b e a n s a r e s o a ke d f or 1 9 t o 2 4 h o u r s a n d

T h e b e a n s a r e p l a c e d i n a n e n o r m o u s p o t w i t h a b o u t 2 0 l i t e r s o f w at e r a n d p u r é e d w i t h a R o b o t C o u p ep ow er m i xe r t h a t l o o k s l i ke a g i a n t i m m e r s i o n b l e n d e r. | 3 |T h e p u r é e i n g p r o c e s s m a ke s t h e m i xt u r e v er y f oa m y. B r ew er c o u l d u s e a d e fo a m i n g a g e n t d u r i n g t h i s s t e p , b u th e s a y s , “ I wa n t t o ke e p ev er y t h i n g a s p u r e a s p o s s i b l e .” M o r e wa t e r i s a d d e d u n t i l a b o u t 8 0 l i t e r s h a ve b e e n m i xe d

i n J a p a n e s e .

T h e g o i s t h e n c o o ke d t o 1 0 0 º C t o m a ke s oy m i l k .B r ew er h a s t o s t i r t h e g o c o n s t a n t l y, a s t h e e q u i p m e n t

b e m a d e c o l d , b u t B r ew er p r e fe r s t h e h o t m e t h o d , a s i tg i ve s t h e r e s u l t i n g m i l k a n u & i e r fl a vo r. O n c e i t r e a c h e s

B r ew er m a n u a l l y s t ra i n s t h e s oy m i l k , m a ki n g

T h e l i q u i d i s p o u r e d t h r o u g h a m a ke s h i ' c h i n o i s , a n d i n J a p a n e s e , i s p r e s s e d

t h e r e s u l t i n g s oy m i l k . O ka ra c a n b e u s e d t o a d d fi b e r i n

R i g h t n ow , B r ew er c o m p o s t s h i s o ka ra , b u t h e i s h o p i n g t o

A p i t c h e r o f s oy m i l k i s p u l l e d f r o m t h e v at

B r ew er u s e s a l a r g e p a d d l e t o c r e a t e a w h i r l p o o l e ( e c t i n

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You can findMOFU on themenu at SchlaflyBo!leworks, or stop by theMaplewood Farmers’

Market to purchase it from the SLU stand.

BRIDGE TAP HOUSE & WINE BAR

THE CONCEPT: Downtown’s latest place to be for a social supper and a mile-long drink list with something for everyone (over 200 beers, 36 on tap and over 100 wines, 20+ by the glass). David Bailey, owner of Baileys’ Chocolate Bar and Rooster, has a knack for concept and eye for design and has created the perfect harmony of simplicity and sophistication at Bridge. The wood décor and sleek stringed accents echo the restaurant’s namesake, the bridge of a violin.

WHEN TO SHOW UP: For dinner, get there early (5pm-6pm); for a lively bar scene, arrive after 9pm on Friday or Saturday.

BEST FOOD & DRINK PAIRING: Gorgonzola and Bacon Bread Pudding + K Vintners Viogner white wine.

WHO TO BRING WITH YOU: Great for date night but even better for a small group. Sample a number of new-to-you beers in 4 oz. tasting glasses and share multiple combos from the À La Carte Cheese & Charcuterie boards.

IF IT’S YOUR FIRST TIME: Ask your server for beer selections that may not be on the menu. Since kegs are sometimes delivered mid-shift, you could get a first taste of the freshest beer on tap. 1004 Locust St., Downtown, 314.241.8141

THE CONCEPT: While everyone else is trying to do it bigger, wunderkind restaurateur Gerard Craft has hit the mark by doing it smaller. Located next door to his award-winning restaurant Niche, Taste offers a succinct menu of masterfully mixed drinks and simple-but-flavorful fare that is an amuse bouche of the good life.

WHEN TO SHOW UP: Stop by a few hours before dinner for a light snack and an aperitif, or after your meal for cocktails and a lively crowd.

BEST FOOD & DRINK PAIRING: Try the Gateway Caipirinha: Cabana Cachaça, lemon juice, cinnamown bark syrup and peach preserves. Then ask the mixologist which daily menu item would pair best.

HOW TO GET SERVED QUICKLY: Call ahead. Such a small space fills up fast, and they only take a few reservations a night, so if you know you’re heading their way, let them know. Otherwise, get there early.

THE BRAINS BEHIND THE BAR: Ted Kilgore, a locally and nationally recognized mixologist, and his protégés have created a menu that is a salute to the golden age of American cocktails. 1831 Sidney St., Soulard, 314.773.7755

TASTE

THE CONCEPT: The Library Annex is the college bar’s older brother—a little smarter, a little more sophisticated, but still loves to party. Brothers Tim and Seamus McGowan have created a college bar with upscale lounge décor, a number of bar games, 20 plasma TVs, and a dance floor with serious sights and sounds, located just off the SLU campus. It’s got the only dance floor and permanent Beer Pong tables in its area. Tall wooden booths topped with rows of books create privacy and exclusivity and divide the large space into three areas.

WHEN TO SHOW UP: Take advantage of the longer-than-usual happy hour, Wednesday-Friday until 8pm. If you want to dance on Friday or Saturday, get there before midnight, when they usually hit capacity.

BEST FOOD & DRINK PAIRING: The PretzelBurger + a Bud Light

WHO TO BRING WITH YOU: Your entourage. Grab a group of your best girlfriends or buddies and look good, because it’s a great place to meet someone new.

IF IT’S YOUR FIRST TIME: Show up early to secure a Beer Pong table. 3693 Forest Park Ave., Midtown, 314.652.8484

RAISING THE BARA look inside St. Louis’ hottest new late-night haunts. BY BRANDI WILLS | PHOTOS BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

THE LIBRARY ANNEXBY NICHE

82 ALIVE STL MAY 2010 alivemag.com

THE CONCEPT: Pi owner Chris Sommers has perfected the art of turning a pizza joint into a destination. His newest location in the Central West End indulges its patrons’ sophisticated tastes and rewards them with a well-designed atmosphere. Their signature deep-dish, cornmeal-crust pizza made Pi in the Loop a hotspot, and the CWE location turns up the heat with one of the neighborhood’s largest bars, staffed by seriously skilled bartenders.

WHEN TO SHOW UP: Grab a late meal (9pm-10pm) then move to the bar afterward for drinks. If it’s your first time, grab a pager from the hostess and stroll the block while you wait. Pop into the surrounding galleries and shops to see what’s new. The next morning, return to Pi for a much-needed cappuccino and cinnamon bun.

BEST FOOD & DRINK PAIRING: Central West End pizza + the Infinite Potential: Maison Surrenne Petite Champagne Cognac, Orchard Apricot Liqueur, house-made simple syrup, topped with Chandon Brut

THE BRAINS BEHIND THE BAR: Sommers recruited bartenders from California, New Orleans, New York, Chicago and beyond—all of whom have helped shape the drink menu. And a certified sommelier on staff is an unlikely but welcome fixture for this posh pizzeria. 400 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, 314.367.4300

THE CONCEPT: This white-hot vodka bar is the epitome of cool. The newest venture by Mark Erney and Paul Holst (of The Zone in the CWE) features three bars—two inside and one on the fun-filled patio—and a dancefloor that explodes by midnight. What sets this vodka bar apart from the rest is the VodBox, one of just a few walk-in vodka freezers in the country. Colorful LED lights on white walls keep the mood fresh, while retro fixtures, barstools and curtains add to the fun.

WHEN TO SHOW UP: Thursday nights are All You Can Drink Night. For $10, you can drink as you please from 9pm-midnight. For $5 more, you can extend your curfew to 1am.

BEST DRINK: Double Espresso Martini: Van Gogh Double Espresso vodka, vanilla vodka and triple sec. If you like it sweeter, ask for a little Kahlúa mixed in.

WHO TO BRING WITH YOU: Whoever you want. The Erney’s crowd is fun and welcoming, so show up with a group or alone and you’re sure make a few new friends.

HOW TO GET SERVED QUICKLY: Yell. If you don’t know your bartender’s name, shout your drink order. They’ll appreciate your moxie. 4200 Manchester Ave., The Grove, 314.652.7195

PI IN THE CENTRAL WEST END ERNEY’S 32°

VODKA BAR

THE CONCEPT: This “sanctuary in the city” creates unique drinks using only boutique liquors (no mass-market brands), fresh juices and handcrafted accompaniments. Inspired by the Latin American holiday Day of the Dead, this darkly romantic spot features ominous paintings in Baroque frames, macabre décor and black leather walls.

HOW TO GET SERVED QUICKLY: Sit at the bar. Aside from quicker service, you’ll have a front-row seat for the show. At Sanctuaria, assembling a drink is a ballet-style art form of measuring, muddling and mixing.

BEST FOOD & DRINK PAIRING: Vaca Frita + the Brazilian Flip: Cabana Cachaça, house-made Falernum (rum-based liqueur infused with almonds, lime, clove and lavender), lemon juice, grapefruit bitters and an egg white

WHO TO BRING WITH YOU: Someone special. The restaurant’s intimate dining rooms are great for date night.

THE BRAINS BEHIND THE BAR: Mixologist Matt Seiter has been lauded in New York, Chicago and St. Louis for his originality, intuition and dramatic presentation. 4198 Manchester Ave., The Grove, 314.535.9700

SANCTUARIA

MORE ONLINELog on to ALIVEmag.com to get an on-video inside peek with ALIVE Dining Editor Cristy Miller.

MAY 2010 ALIVE STL 83 alivemag.com

19Inspired Food Culture JULY 2011

Plaza Frontenac | Maryland Plaza | www.bissingers.com

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FEAST FAVES / SECRET INGREDIENTFEAST FAVES | AT HOME

FEAST FAVES / SECRET INGREDIENTFEAST FAVES | SECRET INGREDIEN T

OK, we know, saltmakes pre!ymuch everything be!er. But when it comes tothe grilled cheese sandwiches fromTheBig Cheese, it really steals the show.Each ofThe Big Cheese’s cooked-to-order grilled cheeses is dustedwith koshersalt right before being served. “It’s the first thing you tastewhen you bite intothe sandwich, then the last thing you tastewhen you lick your lips,” says SusanaMoscoso, who takes orders atThe Big Cheese’s farmers’ market standwhile herfiance, Dave Lowell, grills up the goods.

EveryweekThe Big Cheese o"ers its classic sandwich –madewith raw-milksharp Cheddar fromMarcoot Jersey Creamery on BakehouseWhite bread fromCompanion – aswell as a specialty sandwich featuring ingredients found at themarket. A few combos to look for this summer are tomato-basil-mozzarella,Pepper Jack-cilantro-tomato-red onion and strawberry-mint-quark – one ofthemost popular. “Everyone tells us the salt is whatmakes the sandwich,” saysLowell, “but there’s a lot of other good stu" in there too.” –B.W.

Tower Grove Farmers’MarketWebster Groves Farmers’Marketbigcheesestl.com

| 1 | Chef’n cheese slicer, $9.95;Williams-Sonoma,multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com | 2 | Roslewire cheese slicer, $26.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com | 3 | Bamboo cheese slicer,$23.99; Target, multiple locations, target.com –B.W.

KOSHERSALT

PHOTO

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The BigCheese

bigcheesestl.com

CHEESE SLICERS

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17Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

THE STETSON

FEAST FAVES / WHAT WE’RE DRINKING

| 1 | OXO Good Grips 3-inch Mini Strainer, $7.99; Bed, Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com | 2 | R!sle Tea Strainer, $19; Sur La Table, 1701 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Frontenac, surlatable.com | 3 | Mesh strainer, $4.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

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When it comes to the upper class, there’s old money, there’s nouveau riche, and then there are the robber barons. They’re rough and tumble to start, but before you know it their slick appeal has won you over. The story is the same with The Stetson – a charming cocktail of rye whiskey, Cocchi Americano, house-made pineapple gomme, lemon juice and mole bi"ers. This devil in disguise has a brash booziness up front that quickly subsides into a smooth, sweet, sophisticated finish.

With so many bold flavors (you get hints of chocolate, various citrus fruits, sweet white wine and rye in every

sip), it’s hard to define the dominant element in the drink. Rather, the ingredients work together to create a handsomely seductive sipper that has you instinctively seeking out a cigar and a high-backed leather armchair.

4850 Laclede Ave., Central West Endbrasseriebyniche.com

Brasserie by Niche

314.454.0600

CENTRAL WEST END

The StetsonBY TED CHARAK, BRASSERIE BY NICHE

According to Charak, the pineapple gomme so!ens the intensity of the alcohols and gives the drink a bigger mouth feel. Pineapple gomme is made by soaking macerated, peeled pineapple in simple syrup and gum arabic overnight at room temperature, then straining the mixture through cheesecloth. If you don’t have gum arabic, Charak says you can simulate the flavor by pu"ing # medium pineapple and 1 cup simple syrup through the same process; however, you’ll sacrifice the silky-smooth texture.

Serves | 1 |

1! oz Sazerac rye whiskey " oz pineapple gomme ! oz Cocchi Aperitivo Americano # oz lemon juice 2 dashes mole bi!ers

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients with ice in a shaker and shake until mixed. Pour through a conical strainer into a martini glass and serve.

STRAINERS| 1 |

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25Inspired Food Culture APR IL 2011

A new addition to the Balaban’s menu in April, this light but luscious dish is the perfect lunchtime indulgence or delightful introduction to dinner. Succulent lobster meat is perfectly seasoned and poached and then plated atop a drizzle of sa!ron beurre blanc, avocado salsa and fresh tomato concassée (meaning “skinless and seedless”).

The dish marries an assortment of flavors, textures and techniques that pique your palate with every bite. The only thing that could enhance the experience is a glass of expertly paired wine. Try the house recommendation, a 2009 Brewer-Cli"on Chardonnay.

1772 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield balabanswine.com

BUTTER & CITRUS POACHED LOBSTER

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Balaban’s Wine Cellar &

Tapas Bar

636.449.6700CHESTERFIELD

23Inspired Food Culture MAY 2011

REALLYRYE OLDFASHIONED

FEAST FAVES / WHAT WE’RE DRINKING

| 1 |Stainless steel sugarpotwith tongs, $29.95;SurLaTable, PlazaFrontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com | 2 |Mini colorful bowlswith tray, $14.95; Pier1 Imports,multiple locations, pier1.com | 3 |Shellsugar tongs, $2.95;Crate&Barrel, 1TheBoulevard,RichmondHeights, crateandbarrel.com –K.B.

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While theOldFashionedhas experiencedanumber ofmakeovers in its lifetime,TheRoyale’s presentation ofthe classic is respectfully true to form. It features nothingmore than theoriginal sugar-bi!ers-water-whiskey-lemon combodatingback to its creation in the late 1800s.Whatmakes this drink standout, however, is theBulleitrye.Madewith a higher-than-usual 95percent rye, itblendsblissfullywith thebi!ers toproduce topnotes ofcinnamonand clove that slowly giveway to thewarmingsensation of thewhiskey. A refreshing and relaxing sipperon awarmSt. Louis night. –B.W.

3132 S. Kingshighway, Tower Grove Souththeroyale.com

The Royale

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Really Rye Old FashionedBY JOHN FAUSZ & ROBERT GRIFFIN, THE ROYALE

Robert Gri!n, on how the drink came to be: “Johnwonderedwhat anOld Fashionedwith the Bulleit ryewould taste like, towhich I answered, ‘Really good, andprobably even be"er if wemuddle the lemon peel withthe sugar instead of just doing a twist.’ “

Serves | 1 |

1 sugar cube3 dashes Fee Brothers Old Fashioned Bi"ers

1 thin-sliced lemon peelsplash of water

2 oz Bulleit rye whiskey

| Preparation | Place sugar cube and generousdashes of bi!ers in an old-fashioned glass. Rim glasswith lemon peel and add to glasswith a splash ofwater.Muddle until sugar is dissolved. Fill glasswithice, and add rye. Stir and serve.

26 ALIVE STL MARCH 2010 alivemag.comalivemag.com

Downtown, On TapDavid Bailey opens Bridge Tap House and Wine Bar Downtown.By Brandi Wills | Photo by Brian Fagnani

The Return of a Legend Balaban’s is back with a restaurant redux in West County.By Brandi Wills | Photo by Carrie Iggulden

A little bit of a good thing goes a long way. But you won’t be able to get enough of the succulent dishes and fine wines at Balaban’s Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar, a rebirth of the CWE classic now in Chesterfield. For 34 years, the legendary Balaban’s wowed locals and national celebs (Paul Newman, Richard Gere, Jerry Seinfeld, the Rolling Stones) alike with its inspired interpretation of a Paris bistro. Now fans of the former great are flocking to its reincarnation for a revival of the recipes that made the original restaurant an instant favorite among gourmands.

A BREATH OF FRENCH AIR Classic dishes such as Beef Wellington and Smoked Trout Pancakes—as well as new creations like the Portabella Eggplant Stack—are served as small plates and expertly paired with wines from the original Balaban’s cellar. An oenophile’s delight, the new spot features more than 500 fine labels, library wines, an online wine store and pairing database, a variety of wine clubs, personal Sommelier service and private wine dinners (1772 Clarkson Rd., Chesterfield, 636.449.6700).

NEWS FROM NADOZ Nadoz Café at The Boulevard recently announced a new evening menu with comfort favorites such as Chicken Au Gratin and French Country Beef Pot Pie. The charming café serves breakfast and lunch daily and will have more subdued candlelit dining to accommodate the new nighttime menu, which is available from 5pm-close, Tues.-Sat. (#12 The Boulevard St. Louis, Brentwood, 314.726.3100).

GARDEN PARTYThe Terrace View in the CityGarden now serves Sunday brunch. The new menu features savory and sweat AM eats such as eggs Benedict, steak and eggs, French toast, freshly baked muffins and biscuits and gravy. The café also features a fabulous Bloody Mary bar (808 Chestnut St., Downtown, 314.436.8855).

LE NEW HOME Fans of the Central West End French restaurant Chez Leon take comfort. The established local restaurant has relocated and is now open in Clayton. The new location serves the same classic French fare along with a few new dishes and new lunch hours (7927 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.361.1589).

>!The recent opening of Bridge Tap House and Wine Bar marks the trifecta for restaurateur David Bailey. The proprietor of late-night/date-night great, Baileys’ Chocolate Bar, and hip brunch spot, Rooster ( just one block from Bridge), has another hit on his hands in the form of a specialty spot for sipping and supping on local, artisan offerings.

The gem among the handcrafted menu is the cheese and charcuterie selection—featuring a rotating medley of meats both smoked on-site and procured locally. Every brew-o-phile’s fantasy is played out behind the bar with 36 taps, many representing Missouri craft beers. And the globally inspired wine list rotates regularly based on what’s in demand, both by customers and by Bailey’s seasoned palate. In memory of Bailey’s late brother, who was a violinist, Bridge’s décor is composed of solid wood compo-nents with stringed accents throughout. Bailey said he chose the name Bridge because, “a violin’s bridge is artistic yet functional, a necessity that is often overlooked.” Poetic, for sure, but you’ll undoubtedly find the simple allure of Bridge impossible to over-

look (1004 Locust St., Downtown, 314.241.8141). The chalet-chic interior at Bridge

Seared scallops tempt at Balaban’s Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar.

stl now

Lawnmowers hum, sprinklers tick and

patios populate. It’s Memorial Day in

Kansas City. Across the nation, people

refer to this holiday as the start of the sum-

mer season. But in Kansas City, we refer to it

as the start of grilling season.

Grilling is serious business in Kansas City.

With a baseball team named the T-Bones,

annual barbecue competitions and a famous

sauce bearing our city’s name, local grillers

have a prestigious reputation to uphold. So,

how do you choose the perfect cut of meat

and prepare the ideal fl ames on which to cook

it? For the secret to creating savory backyard

tastes and smells, we turned to some of

Kansas City’s most experienced grillmasters.

GRADES REALLY DO MATTER

Everyone loves a steak that’s juicy and ten-

der. For meat that melts like butter in your

mouth, the right grade is critical. Kurt King-

sley, chef at Morton’s, The Steakhouse in

Crown Center, suggests starting with USDA

“prime” aged beef for the best fl avor and

tenderness. “Its trademark marbling ensures

a quality cut and a savory fi nal product,” he

says. But fi nding it may be tough. Only two

percent of all steaks are good enough to be

graded prime. So if you can’t fi nd this rare

cut at your grocer or butcher, Kingsley says

to opt for bright red “choice” meats with

abundant marbling.

Marbling, which is the fl ecks of fat found

within the meat, “is where the fl avor and ten-

derness come from,” says Mike McGonigle,

All Fired Up: Grilling Tips from the Experts

ABOVE: Perfectly cooked ribeye and T-bone steaks prove your prowess at the backyard grill. Vegetables and even fruit make tasty grilled side dishes and desserts.

BY BRANDI WILLS

121L U X U R Y L I V I N G & F I N E H O M E D E S I G N

owner of McGonigle’s Market. He recommends

a top-quality choice cut, “with bright white mar-

bling. The marbling and the fat that surrounds

the cut should be bright and clear, with no pink

or yellow in it.” According to McGonigle, the

ribeye has the most marbling, making it ideal for

outdoor grilling.

You should also pay particular attention to

the thickness of the meat. Kingsley recommends

cuts at least 1 to 1½ inches thick, such as ri-

beyes, porterhouses or strip steaks. “Thicker

cuts of meat sear on the outside while retaining

their juices inside,” he says. “Thinner steaks are

more likely to dry out on the grill.”

FEELING THE HEAT “The quality of the steak is key,” says Richard

Barry, executive chef at The Hereford House in

Zona Rosa, which, like all fi ve area restaurants,

A fi let with a caramelized crust and tender center will

earn you King of the Grill status.

122 K C M A G A Z I N E

serves only Sterling Silver Premium Beef. But he

also stresses the importance of the fi re. What

does Barry use when preparing his fi nest back-

yard fare? “Charcoal. Defi nitely,” he says. “I’m

a purist.”

During the fi rst few minutes of grilling, the

high temperature actually sears the meat, form-

ing a coating that seals in the natural juices.

This high direct heat is vital to the meat’s

tenderness, so experts suggest preheating the

grill to 600-800 degrees and keeping it at that

temperature for 30-45 minutes before actually

cooking the steaks. While you’re waiting, bring

your steaks to room temperature and lightly oil

the grill rack to prevent the meat from sticking

and losing natural juices.

To procure a successful fi re, Dr. Rich Davis,

of KC Masterpiece fame, suggests the follow-

ing method:

n To begin, make sure the vents are open on

the grill, remove cooking grid until charcoal is

ready. Arrange charcoal briquets into a pyra-

mid in the center, bottom of your grill.

n Liberally douse charcoal with charcoal

lighter fl uid until briquets appear glossy. Let

the lighter fl uid soak into the briquets for about

one minute. Carefully put a fl ame to the soaked

Kurt Kingsley, chef

at Morton’s, The

Steakhouse in Crown

Center, prefers

thick-cut ribeyes,

porterhouses or strip

steaks for the grill,

which “sear on the

outside, while retaining

their juices inside.”

123L U X U R Y L I V I N G & F I N E H O M E D E S I G N

pile of briquets. Keep the lid off until you are

ready to start grilling your food.

n Let briquets burn until they are 70 percent

covered with a white/light gray ash and have a

slight red glow. Good quality charcoal briquets

should be ready in about 20 minutes.

n Once coals are ashed over, spread them

evenly in a single layer along the bottom of the

grill using long-handled tongs (charcoal should

extend about one inch beyond the area the

food will cover). Set the grilling grid back in

place and you’re ready to start grilling.

Using too many or too few briquets can hin-

der the outcome of the meat. For food cooked

directly over the coals, it takes about 30 bri-

quets to properly grill one pound of meat. For

foods cooked indirectly (over a drip pan) on a

full-size covered grill, 25 briquets on each side

of the drip pan should be used for up to one

hour of cooking time. For each additional 50

minutes of cooking, add eight additional bri-

quets to each side of the drip pan. When add-

ing briquets to an existing fi re, be sure to use

long-handled tongs for safety. And never add

lighter fl uid to lit or warm coals. Instead, place

the new briquets in a small metal pan and ap-

ply lighter fl uid. Then add the briquets to the

outside edges of the fi re. They can be moved to

the center of the fi re when they’re ashed over.

If you’re grilling on an especially windy day,

in cold temperature or in high humidity, you

should use a few more briquets than normal

to make sure the fi re stays hot enough to thor-

oughly cook the food. You can estimate the

temperature of the coals by simply holding

your hand, palm down, about six inches above

the coals. The amount of time it takes before

the heat is uncomfortable and you have to pull

your hand away determines the temperature: 5

seconds is low heat, 4 is medium, 3 is medium-

hot and 2 is hot.

GRILLING GAUCHERIEThe secret to becoming known as the neigh-

borhood’s expert griller goes beyond the meat

and the fl ames. Patience and self-control is

what sets the best apart from the rest. So be

sure to avoid the following BBQ blunders:

n The overzealous chef. Turning the meat

124 K C M A G A Z I N E

too often or too soon prevents searing. Give

steaks at least fi ve minutes of solid grilling

on one side before turning. Steaks should be

seared, turned, seared on the fl ip side and then

cooked to perfection. If your steak sticks to the

surface as you try to turn it over, stop trying.

It’s a sure sign that the meat needs more searing

on that side.

n Stick a fork in it. Resist the temptation to

use a fork to test the steak for doneness. In-

stead, use tongs or a spatula so the meat isn’t

pierced and juices don’t escape.

n Blowing your cover. Resist the temptation

to sneak a peak under the grill’s cover. Keep the

lid closed while grilling to increase the broiling

temperature and decrease your cooking time.

n But the most common and most feared

grilling mistake is, of course, overcooking the

meat. “Keeping your steaks on the grill too

long causes moisture to evaporate, resulting

in meat that’s dry and tough,” Kingsley says.

And since the fork test is offi cially outlawed, he

suggests using a better tool: your hand. “For a

rare steak, squeeze the pad at the base of your

thumb,” says Kingsley. “It feels spongy and

off ers little resistance. This should be the con-

sistency of a rare steak. For a medium steak,

outstretch your hand and press on the middle

“Both grilling and

barbecuing are a

combination of science

and art,” says Dr.

Rich Davis, of KC

Masterpiece fame.

“With experience, you’ll

become the family

neighborhood hero.”

125L U X U R Y L I V I N G & F I N E H O M E D E S I G N

of your palm. It should feel fi rm and snap back

quickly.” As for a well-done steak, Kingsley

says to use the base of your pinky fi nger as a

gauge but off ers a word of caution. “I wouldn’t

cook a steak beyond medium,” he says. “Doing

so dries out the meat and robs it of its tender-

ness and fl avor.”

POPULAR PAIRINGSAn entire meal grilled over an open fl ame en-

sures that a variety of fl avors will all comple-

ment each other nicely. The opportunities are

endless, as a myriad of foods can be cooked

or heated on a grill. When it comes to vege-

tables, Kingsley says bell peppers, asparagus,

mushrooms, potatoes, onions, zucchini, corn-

on-the-cob, eggplant and carrots all grill well.

And don’t forget to try fruit like pineapples and

bananas.

With red meat, think red wine. Kingsley sites

a few full-bodied reds that pair nicely with a

juicy steak. “I like Syrahs, Shirazes and Zinfan-

dels to stand up to the rich fl avors of a great

steak,” he says. “These wines have peppery

characteristics that enhance the steak’s fl avors.”

He also has a red wine he suggests with a local

twist. “Dick Vermeil’s Zinfandel from his Cali-

fornia vineyard is great with steaks.”

However you choose to craft your next

outdoor feast, remember that practice makes

perfect. There are infi nite grilling methods to

experiment with and a variety of culinary op-

tions to pick from. “Both grilling and barbecu-

ing are a combination of science and art,” says

Davis. “Grilling’s a great sport, and with expe-

rience you’ll be the family neighborhood hero!”

RECIPESThis recipe, created by Dr. Rich Davis of KC

Masterpiece Barbecue & Grill, was the winner

of Kansas City’s fi rst-ever American Royal BBQ

Competition.

Doc’s Original Pork TenderloinMakes 4-6 Servings

1 cup soy sauce, divided

1/3 cup toasted sesame oil, divided

2 large garlic cloves, minced and divided

3/4 tablespoon ground ginger

1 pork tenderloin, 2-3 pounds

1 cup KC Masterpiece Original BBQ sauce

Combine 3/4 cup soy sauce, 1/4 cup sesame

oil, 1 garlic clove and ginger for a marinade. Set

aside 1/4 cup of marinade for basting. Place ten-

derloin and remaining marinade in a one-quart

food storage bag and marinate in refrigerator

for two hours (if time allows, marinating over-

night is suggested). Grill tenderloin on covered

grill over medium heat, turning occasionally,

about 15-20 minutes or until cooked through-

out. Baste with reserved marinade during the

last fi ve minutes of grilling.

126 K C M A G A Z I N E

Combine BBQ sauce with the remaining soy

sauce, sesame oil and garlic clove in a small pan

and heat on the stove over medium heat until

it begins to boil, about four minutes. Remove

from heat. Let tenderloin cool for 5-10 minutes,

slice diagonally and drizzle with warm barbecue

sauce mixture.

For a succulent side dish or a sweet treat to

follow your meal, try these tasty recipes from

Morton’s, The Steakhouse in Crown Center.

Grilled Sweet Potato WedgesMakes 4 Servings

2 pounds medium sweet potatoes, cut length-

wise into 6 wedges each

2 tablespoons olive oil

Pinch of salt

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

Large pinch of cayenne pepper

Light the grill. In a large saucepan of boiling,

salted water, simmer the potatoes until almost

tender, about fi ve minutes. Drain and transfer

to a large bowl. Toss with olive oil, salt, black

pepper and cayenne.

Grill over moderate heat for 15 minutes, turn-

ing until tender and lightly charred. Serve warm.

Grilled Bananas with Ice Cream and

Chocolate SauceMakes 4 Servings

4 fi rm-ripe bananas

1/2 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1/4 cup fi rmly packed brown sugar

1/2 gallon favorite vanilla ice cream

Chocolate sauce

Prepare grill. Peel bananas and halve length-

wise. In a shallow baking pan large enough

to hold bananas in one layer, stir butter and

brown sugar. Add bananas, tossing gently to

coat. Transfer bananas with a metal spatula to

an oiled rack set six inches over glowing coals.

Grill until browned, about two minutes on

each side. Serve grilled bananas with ice cream

and chocolate sauce. n

127L U X U R Y L I V I N G & F I N E H O M E D E S I G N