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Fishing Rigs & Techniques.

Freshwater: Saltwater:

Bait Rigging: Bait Rigging: Fish Pellet Rigging Bridle Rigging

Frog Rigging Shrimp Rigging

Shrimp Rigging Skip Bait Rigging

Squid Rigging

Swim Bait Rigging

Fly Fishing Rigs: Tuna Fillet Rigging

Cheow Lan Fly Fishing Rig

Par Lai Fly Fishing Rig

Techniques: Blood Worm

Bounce Balling

Chumming

Drop Back

Estimating Weight

Switch & Bait

Tag Line

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Fish Pellet Rigging

In lakes and ponds where the use of fish pellets is common practice, the fish might be so used to this kind of food that it is difficult

to catch them on any other type of bait.

In this case it is important to find out if the target fish eats the pellets at the surface or as they slowly sink.

The easiest way to make the often very hard fish pellets soft enough

to put on your hook is to quickly scald them with boiling water. Just after this they should be put in a plastic bag, sealed,

and left in the fridge over night!

If the target fish eats from the surface, the pellets have to be dry and hard. This makes it difficult to attach them to your hook, but not impossible.

The quickest and by far the easiest way to attach a pellet to the hook

is by using small (1 – 2 mm) slices of common valve rubber (used in bicycle tyre valves). These small rubber bands are then

put on the fish pellet with the hook under it.

One way to get the band over the pellet is by first putting the band on the closed jaws of a "Leatherman" or similar tool. Open the jaws

and insert the fish pellet, then slide/roll the pellet and band off the jaws of the tool.

Frog Rigging

A live frog is one of the absolute best baits for several freshwater species.

Hopefully you are one of the many anglers who would prefer to use this bait as humanely as possible.

Rigging is easily done by simply putting a rubber band around

"Kermit's" belly and securing your hook under it.

That way the frog can and will swim freely around for several days, not feeling any pain – if you should be unlucky enough not to get any strikes!

In that case you still have the option of letting "Kermit" go

at the end of your fishing session.

No harm done.

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Shrimp Rigging

Fishing with live or dead shrimps can be extremely successful especially if the target fish is Barramundi.

The shrimp should be rigged so it swims as close to normal as possible

and stays on the hook when casting.

This is done by passing the hook through from the underside of the tail and pointing it backwards.

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Cheow Lan Fly Fishing Rig

Below is an illustration of a simple, but sufficient fly fishing rig we use when fly fishing at Cheow Lan Lake in Khao Sok.

This rig may not be the most common rig, but based on our experience with the water, species and size of the various fish at Cheow Lan Lake,

this rig has been tested hundreds of times, and never let us down!

At the end of the "Fly Line" we tie a loop using the best suitable knot, for the chosen "Fly Line".

We then tie a loop at the end of the "Leader", using a Surgeons End Loop.

These two loops are then joined using a Loop to Loop Connection.

At the other end of the "Leader" (approximately 150 cm long), it is jointed with the "Class Tippet" using a Double Uni knot.

The "Class Tippet" (approximately 40 cm long) we use in Cheow Lan Lake

is 20 lbs, which is plenty for the species found here.

The "Class Tippet" is then joined with the "Shock Tippet" with yet another Double Uni knot.

We use an approximately 20 cm long "Shock Tippet" of 30 lbs fluorocarbon mono line.

The 30 lbs breaking strength is needed when targeting the toothy Giant Snakehead in Cheow Lan Lake,.

Finally we tie on the chosen fly, using a Uni knot.

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Par Lai Fly Fishing Rig

Below is an illustration of a simple, but sufficient fly fishing rig we use when fly fishing at Par Lai Lake in Phuket.

This rig may not be the most common rig, but based on our experience

with the water, species and size of the various fish at Par Lai Lake, this rig has been tested hundreds of times, and never let us down!

At the end of the "Fly Line" we tie a loop using the best suitable knot, for the chosen "Fly Line".

We then tie a loop at the end of the "Leader", using a Surgeons End Loop.

These two loops are then joined using a Loop to Loop Connection.

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At the other end of the "Leader" (approximately 180 cm long), it is jointed with the "Class Tippet" using a Double Uni knot.

The "Class Tippet" (approximately 60 cm long) we use in Par Lai Lake

is 20 lbs, which is plenty for the species found here.

The "Class Tippet" is then joined with the "Shock Tippet" with yet another Double Uni knot.

We use an approximately 30 cm long "Shock Tippet" of 30 lbs fluorocarbon mono line. The 30 lbs breaking strength is needed when targeting the toothy Pacu in Par Lai Lake,

and by making it 30 cm long, changing flies quickly is easily done.

Finally we tie on the chosen fly, using a Uni knot.

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Bridle Rigging

This way of rigging live fish for trolling is one of the simplest methods. It is also one of the most productive rigs in the Phuket area,

when targeting Sailfish and Marlin.

Bridle Rigging Step by Step.

The bridle itself is a short length of monofilament line

with a sliding noose in each end.

Begin by tying a noose on the hook and pulling it up tight

using the knot configuration shown here.

Then tie another sliding noose in the other end of the monofilament, keeping in mind that the bridle needs to be quite short, say 100 mm for towing Skipjack Tuna.

Tying bridles of this short length

does take a little practice.

Close the loop up on your loop gauge or pen, but not so tight that you can't get it off.

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Slide the loop off your loop gauge and engage your open–eye live baiting needle.

When the baitfish comes aboard, the hook is usually cut straight off to save time,

and the needle is passed straight through the eye tunnel of the baitfish taking care

not to damage the eyes.

Pull the second loop right through and hook it over the point of the hook.

Then disengage the loop

from the open–eyed needle.

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The bait is put back in the water

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Skip Bait Rigging

One of the more complicated bait rigs used in sportfishing around the world. This rig is widely used when the target fish is Marlin.

Skip Bait Rigging Step by Step.

Extend a tube into the gills and out through the anus of the fish.

Push your leader through the tube then remove the tube

leaving the leader in place.

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Attach a suitable size hook to the leader.

The knot shown is suitable for heavy monofilament leaders but you will have to use a metal sleeve, of the correct size,

and a crimping tool, should you be using a 49 strand wire leader.

Now we have to stitch the mouth and gills closed:

Begin by looping a 40 cm length of thread

over the nose so the loop lays under the head of the fish. Then thread the eye of your stout needle with both tag ends

and drive the needle down through the nose of your bait fish from top to bottom and forward of the underslung loop.

You may need your awl to initiate the puncture.

Pull the needle right through and with it both tag ends of the thread.

Now, re–thread the needle with one tag end and pass it through the eye tunnel

of the fish as shown.

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Pull the needle right through and with it the tag.

Then thread the needle with the other tag end and pull it through the eye tunnel of the fish

in the opposite direction.

Tie both tags together using a granny knot and pull the entire stitch really tight.

Now, it is important to use a knot that slips, like a granny, otherwise the knot might lock

before the stitch comes really tight.

Puncture your bait right in the centre of the head, in the case of this mullet,

that is right between the eyes.

Then drive the awl right through so the point protrudes under the head.

Take about 40 cm of your galvanised wire and push one end down through the puncture

you have made.

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Now, push one end of the wire up through the first puncture you made,

that's the one for the mouth stitch, and push the other end through

in the other direction so they cross over within the forward puncture.

Bend the lower protruding wire forward so that it lays alongside the leader

then wind the upper protruding wire tightly around both the leader and the lower wire.

Having made a series of tight wraps with the upper wire, wrap the leader tightly

with the protruding lower wire.

Make the second set of wraps continue more or less flush with the first set.

The completed bait should look

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Squid Rigging

Sometimes it can be difficult to catch fish using lures, minnows and poppers!

This is often because of the concentration of natural bait in the area.

All game fish feed on squid, which leads to the question, "Why not rig a dead squid for trolling or drifting"

If you decide to try, and why not, then here is a very easy

and successful way to do the rigging.

All it takes is a freshly caught or quick frozen squid, a suitable hook, a length of leader (mono or multi–strand), about 1 meter of wire,

a knife and a pair of scissors.

Squid Rigging Step by Step.

Fold a length of wire once and twist it together to make

a rigid needle with an eye.

Make a small cut in the belly of the squid, right in the centre, and about 2/3 of the way

back toward the tail.

Push the eye of your needle under the mantle of the squid and out through the small cut.

Thread the end of your leader through

the eye of your needle.

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Retrieve the needle from the squid's mantle,

pulling the end of the leader through with it.

Tie on the hook.

Shown here is the nail knot.

Insert the hook in the bait. Start under the head with the hook point facing back toward the tentacles.

Push the hook point into, then out from the underside of the head,

but not too deep.

Be careful not to push it through the head which will choke the hook

and prevent solid hook–ups.

Push a wire straight through the underside of the squid about halfway

between the tip of the tail and where the leader emerges

from the belly.

Cross both ends of the wire through the tip of the tail.

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Lay the lower wire tag alongside the leader at the tail and wind the upper wire tag tightly

around both the leader and the lower tag in a barrel roll.

Make sure there is some slack

in the leader between the barrel roll and the hook, so the bait doesn't bend.

Make at least 7 very tight wraps, then bend the wire tag

into a crank handle and rotate until it breaks flush with the barrel roll.

Do exactly the same with the other wire tag.

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This bait may be drifted deep or trolled along the surface for Marlin, Sailfish Yellowfin Tuna and Dorado.

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Swim Bait Rigging

Probably the most complicated rigs used in the pursuit of BIG fish, but also a very productive rig when rigged correctly.

Swim Bait Rigging Step by Step.

Extend a tube into the gills and out through the anus of the fish.

Push your leader through the tube then remove the tube

leaving the leader in place.

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Attach a suitable size hook to the leader.

The knot shown is suitable for heavy monofilament leaders but

you will have to use a metal sleeve of the correct size and a crimping tool, if you are using a 49 strand wire leader.

Now we have to stitch the mouth and gills closed.

Begin by looping a 40 cm length of thread

over the nose so the loop lays under the head of the fish.

Then, thread the eye of your stout needle with both tag ends and drive the needle down through the nose of your bait fish from top to bottom and forward of the

underslung loop. You may need your awl to initiate the puncture.

Pull the needle right through and with it, both tag ends of the thread.

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Now, re–thread the needle with one tag end and pass it through the eye tunnel of the fish as shown.

Pull the needle right through and with it, the tag.

Then thread the needle with the other tag end and pull it through the eye tunnel of the fish

in the opposite direction.

Tie both tags together using a granny knot and pull the entire stitch really tight.

Now, it is important to use a knot

that slips, like a granny, otherwise the knot might lock

before the stitch becomes really tight.

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Use your awl to make a puncture central to the head of the fish only far enough back on the head to allow space for a suitable size

bean sinker to be rigged under the head.

Take about 40 cm of galvanised wire and push it right through the puncture

made by your awl.

Then thread on your bean sinker which should be about the size

shown in the diagram relative to the baitfish you are rigging.

Push the tag of the wire back up through the hole

originally made for the mouth stitch.

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To form the towing bridle, raise the leader protruding from underneath the gills to

a fairly sharp angle to the head of the fish.

Bend the wire protruding from the head forward, then sharply upward,

to lay alongside the leader.

Then commence a series of firm wraps around both leader and head wire with the

wire protruding from the top of the fish's nose.

Having made a series of firm wraps around both leader and head wire,

finish off by making another series of firm wraps around the leader with the tag

of the protruding head wire.

The result should look something like this with the fish secured on a bridle, which –

in combination with the sinker under the head – should make it swim

in an attractive manner beneath the surface when towed

directly from the rod tip.

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Tuna Fillet Rigging

Rigging up a Tuna fillet for Shark fishing can be done in various ways.

The technique shown below is a well–proven method that will increase your hook–up rate and minimize the risk of losing the Shark when it starts rolling on the leader.

You should use a 6 – 8 meter trace of 400 – 600 lb steel wire with a high quality (Sampo) swivel crimped on in each end.

Two hooks (Mustad 7699 size 12/0) rigged on similar steel wire

are then crimped on to the one swivel.

The tail of the Tuna is then cut off and the two hooks, used as needles, are pushed straight through from the tail–cut and out on the back and belly of the Tuna.

Each of the hooks is then pushed through the skin of the Tuna further up the body,

leaving the shank of the hooks along the body and the barb pointing out and backwards.

The bait is tied up with heavy thread where the wire penetrates the skin and the Tuna is cut in half between the gill slits and the hooks.

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Blood Worm

Using the Blood Worm technique when fishing, has surprisingly nothing to do with using a worm as bait.

It is a technique originally invented for Shark fishing

by American angler Fred Archer.

It is now used in many fishing venues around the world, including Phuket, with slight changes depending on the behaviour of the target fish in the area.

The technique is similar to fishing with live fish, trolling or drifting,

with only one exception – the cut of tail of the bait fish!

This might not sound like a drastic change in technique, but it can mean a big difference in the amount of landed billfish.

On days where the billfish are showing but only as lazy non–feeders,

the trick is to quickly cut off the tail of a baitf ish, avoiding cutting too deep so the fish will start bleeding.

Once in the water, the baitfish will wiggle its now missing tail

in an attempt to swim, and this behaviour often turns lazy billfish into feeding predators.

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Bounce Balling

Bounce balling is a highly effective, yet very simple, fishing method when fishing over sand or mud bottom for various bottom dwellers.

The technique is essentially a slow trolling technique designed to drag a bait

along the bottom, causing a commotion and thereby provoking a strike.

The rig is made with a three–way swivel tied to the main line. At the bottom of the three–way swivel, a 25–35 cm. monofilament line

with a 1 to 2 pound cannonball sinker is attached.

Note that the sinker should be attached with a line of slightly lower breaking strength then the main line, so this line will break off if the sinker becomes snagged.

From the center connection of the swivel, a 1,2 – 1,5 meter

monofilament line with a chrome dodger is attached. Trailing 25–35 cm. behind this dodger, the lure is attached.

As you drift or slow troll over an area of sand or mud bottom, you bounce the sinker on the bottom by lifting and dropping the rod tip.

This way the sinker will create a sound, vibrations and clouds of silt

that attracts bottomfeeding predators. As they get closer, the reflections of the metal dodger also helps trigger the strike.

As you are fishing with such a heavy sinker, it is very difficult to judge

just how hard to strike, so therefore do not try to set the hook. Wind in the line until you feel the fish and the hook has set itself.

A heavy rod is required to stay in control of the large sinker,

and braided line is also a huge benifit as the low stretch and increased sensitivity, makes it easier to feel the sinker

bouncing along the bottom.

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Chumming

Chum is a substance made of small pieces of fish, blood and fish oil, often used when fishing for sharks while drifting or at anchor.

The purpose of chumming is to attract fish with the smell and to tempt them to eat. Chum is also used in combination with small pieces of fish.

Sharks react most to the smell, while Dorado and several species of Tuna

react more on the pieces of fish falling through the water layers.

Chum can be prepared from home and frozen in blocks. These blocks are then put in a semi–submerged net or bucket

with holes, where they slowly dissolve and let out a trail in the water.

If the chum mostly consists of blood and oil a bit of sand can be mixed with it to bind and make it sink slowly.

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Drop Back

Trolling live or dead bait with a drop back is successfully used when targeting billfish.

A rubber band is attached to the mainline in the desired distance from the bait. This rubber band is then attached to the release clip on the outrigger.

From the release clip the mainline hangs loosely in a desired length to the rod tip.

The reel is set with a drag of 25 – 33% of the line's breaking strength.

When the billfish strikes the bait, the rubber band snaps thereby giving the fish time to turn and swallow the bait before the line is straightened and the hook is set.

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Estimating Weight

The following formula is a well–proven method to very accurately estimate the weight of most game fish.

The measurements are all in inches and the final result in pounds,

but this can then be transformed into kilograms.

The girth of the fish is measured on the greatest part and then squared.

This number is then multiplied by the body length of the fish, measured as illustrated below.

This result is then divided by 800 to get the weight in pounds.

Example:

Girth is 3 feet 4 inches = 40 inches Body length is 8 feet 4 inches = 100 inches

40 x 40 =1600

1600 x 100 = 160000 160000 / 800 = 200 lbs.

To get the result in kilograms, the final number is then divided by 2.2.

Example:

200 / 2.2 = 88 kg.

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Switch & Bait

The Switch and Bait trolling technique offers the advantage of covering a larger area while fishing with live bait or fly casting.

The idea is to troll a pattern of hookless teasers at normal lure trolling speed

to attract the targeted fish, which usually is Marlin or Sailfish.

When the target fish appears or strikes a teaser, the angler should take a pre–rigged live bait from the live bait tank

and feed it back to the fish. At the same time the crew should wind in the teasers to avoid crossed lines when the fish strikes the bait.

If soft lures or teasers are used in the teaser pattern, the striking fish tends to stay interested for a longer period, often allowing the angler

to decide the most suitable equipment for the fish.

Several line class world records have been set using this technique with a wide range of equipment rigged and ready to be fed to the showing fish.

The downside to the technique is that it requires an experienced

and skillful captain and crew, plus a bit of getting used to by the angler.

Shrimp Rigging

Fishing with live or dead shrimps can be extremely successful especially if the target fish is Barramundi.

The shrimp should be rigged so it swims as close to normal as possible

and stays on the hook when casting.

This is done by passing the hook through from the underside of the tail and pointing it backwards.

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Tag Line

A tag line is a line which is attached to the halyard near the release clip on the outrigger.

Tag lines are usually of the same material as the outrigger halyard

with a short trace of braided line at the free end. The maximum length should not be more than the distance between the outrigger tip

and the corner of the transom when hanging free.

A rubber band is twisted around the trolling line and then attached to the free end of the tag line.

On strike, the rubber band snaps and the trolling line straightens between the rod tip and the hooked fish.

Because of the greatly changed angle between the boat and the release clip

(now the rubber band), this technique minimizes the drop back, and therefore doesn´t give the fish much time to spit the hook out before the drag on the reel sets it tight.

For easy retrieval of the tag line after a strike, many boats now use a metal ring or short tube on the outrigger halyard.

The weight from the ring makes it slide down the halyard to the side of the boat, then there is no tension on the tag line.

When the trolling line again is attached with the rubber band to the tag line,

the pull from the lure will lift the ring to the ti p of the outrigger and spread the lures.

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Dari :al fakir anaz_wood