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ITINERARY CHINA: MANCHURIA & THE TIBETAN PLATEAU

April 26-May 17, 2016 Cultural & Historical Beijing Extension

May 17-21, 2016

The Qinghai Province is loaded with great mountain scenery, like this view in the Huzhu Mountains near Xining; by guide Dave Stejskal.

We include here information for those interested in the 2016 Field Guides China: Manchuria & the Tibetan Plateau tour: ⎯ a general introduction to the tour ⎯ a description of the birding areas to be visited on the tour ⎯ an abbreviated daily itinerary with some indication of the nature of each dayʼs birding outings

Those who register for the tour will be sent this additional material: ⎯ an annotated list of the birds recorded on a previous yearʼs Field Guides trip to the area, with comments by guide(s) on notable species or sightings (may be downloaded from our web site) ⎯ a detailed information bulletin with important logistical information and answers to questions regarding accommodations, air arrangements, clothing, currency, customs and immigration, documents, health precautions, and personal items ⎯ a reference list ⎯ a Field Guides checklist for preparing for and keeping track of the birds we see on the tour ⎯ after the conclusion of the tour, a list of birds seen on the tour A truly fabulous birding adventure—one that begins with the draw of six possible crane species and a multitude of coveted waterbirds and scarce landbirds in Manchuria and concludes high in the mountains of the remote northeastern Tibetan Plateau in search of, among many others, the monotypic Przevalskiʼs Rosefinch. As we crest the final hill on the new highway west of the Qinghai provincial capital of Xining and the last native trees that weʼll see for many days disappear behind us, the early morning sky opens up to the distant, shimmering horizon that is Koko Nor. This is the northeastern gateway to the Tibetan Plateau, and Koko Nor—that huge lake before us—and the surrounding grasslands and alpine scrub vegetation teem with waterfowl, raptors, finches, shorebirds, and other feathered treasures. To this day, Chinaʼs remote Qinghai Province remains little visited by naturalists—or indeed by anyone for that matter! Some of the birds weʼll be looking for have been seen by no more than a few handfuls of westerners. Leaving Beijing in May 1868, it took Père David, a Basque missionary-explorer, a year and a half to reach Koko Nor, the expedition involving

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2 a four month wait for a boat up the Yangtze. Nowadays, imported landcruisers make the journey in a little more than two hours from Xining. But the convenience of modern travel does not detract from the awe the lake inspires. At 3200 meters above sea level the vistas are grand. Where domestic Yaks graze on the flats, a narrow spit of land separates a lagoon from the expanse of the lake—Bar-headed Goose, Pallasʼs Gull... then a faint call and a party of Père Davidʼs Snowfinches alights on the short grass close by, and farther on, White-rumped Snowfinches can be seen. Many birds here rarely encounter humans and can be astonishingly tame. The magic of birding on the Tibetan Plateau has only just begun! Glance at the list of possible species and youʼll immediately realize that the first part of this tour—northeast of Beijing in the wilds of Manchuria—is no less remarkable. Six species of cranes are possible in late April-early May, including the

endangered Siberian Crane. Weʼll also search for the vanishing and now de facto endemic Rufous-backed (Jankowskiʼs) Bunting, which may be the most endangered passerine in all of East Asia. A host of migrant and breeding waterfowl and other species tied to the wetlands, plains, and scrub of this huge, underbirded region in northeastern China will occupy our days before we head to the geographic center of China and begin our birding on the “Roof of the

World.” Jesper Hornskov, our expert local co-leader for this tour, speaks fluent Chinese (and English!) and has lived in China and guided more than 80 birdwatching tours there over nearly two decades, and his knowledge of Chinaʼs birdlife is unsurpassed. Field Guides will be sending along as co-leader on this tour our own Jay VanderGaast, who co-led the first Field Guides China tour with Jesper. Cultural & Historical Beijing Extension—As an added attraction, we are pleased to again offer our Cultural & Historical Beijing Extension, guided by Jesper Hornskov. This short extension,

immediately following our regular tour, plans to visit some of the Beijing areaʼs most intriguing and compelling attractions, including, but not limited to, the Forbidden City, the Great Wall, the Summer Palace, the Botanical Gardens and the Sleeping Buddha Temple, and the Temple of Heaven, among others. Birds wonʼt be shortchanged, however, as many venues (i.e. the Summer Palace, the Great Wall, and the Botanical Gardens) harbor a fine variety of resident and migrant species, many of which will be new to those who just completed the main tour. Weʼll top off our stay with a fabulous Beijing (Peking) Duck banquet! About the Physical Requirements & Pace: Though we will make every effort to follow our itinerary as outlined below, travel in such remote areas can be unpredictable and a degree of flexibility may be necessary. Participants should approach this tour with a spirit of adventure and be willing to accommodate to the inherent discomforts and inconveniences of travel in relatively remote areas and within a culture quite different from our own. Emphasis will be on seeing birds and enjoying them at a reasonable pace, not on covering as many miles as possible on foot; however, the terrain is steep and rough in places, and this—combined with the very high altitude in northeastern Tibet—means that a degree of determination will be required to reach our desired habitat hosting our target species. Walking and hiking in Manchuria at the start of this tour can be classified as “easy,” while the day-to-day walking and hiking in Qinghai province varies from easy to moderately difficult (mostly due to the high elevation). Most days in Qinghai province will find us walking or hiking at elevations between 8000-12,500 feet, with a hike or two at the end of our Tibetan Plateau stay ranging up to 15,750 feet. Elevation gains on any one hike are not expected to exceeding about 1000 feet (300m) with any one hike not exceeding about two miles (round trip) in length.


3 When traveling by road, we will use good quality mini/medium busses or four-wheel drive vehicles to ensure comfortable seating. The weather can often be changeable, with blue skies alternating with overcast conditions. Some rain is likely, and we could even meet snow at the higher altitudes on the Tibetan Plateau. Expect temperatures in the 25°-70° F range in Qinghai and roughly 40°-70° F in Manchuria. Eight of our days will be spent at elevations above 3000 meters (above 10,000 feet), with birding up to roughly 4800 meters (about 15,750 feet) near Er La Pass. At these elevations we will make a point of moving at a relaxed, birderʼs pace; but if you have any concerns, you should seek medical advice before deciding to participate on this tour. In addition, please note that outside of Xining and Beijing, there are only basic medical facilities. However, anyone who is in general good health and is physically fit will enjoy this exciting journey. If you are uncertain about whether this tour is a good match for your abilities and fitness level, please donʼt hesitate to contact our office; if they cannot directly answer your queries, they will put you in touch with the guide.

Itinerary for China: Manchuria & the Tibetan Plateau Days 1-2, Tue-Wed, 26-27 Apr. Departure from US; arrival in Beijing. Most flight schedules will depart the US mid-day on Day 1 and arrive in Beijing mid-afternoon on Day 2. Upon arrival, you should be met by a representative from our hotel and escorted to our nearby hotel in Beijing; please refer to the instructions sent to you from our office regarding transport to our Beijing hotel. Time permitting, weʼll explore the grounds of our hotel with hopes of seeing our first Azure-winged Magpies or a few spring migrants before our first meal together at a nearby restaurant. Night of Day 2 in Beijing. Day 3, Thu, 28 Apr. Birding near Beijing (time permitting); midday flight to Ulanhot, Inner Mongolia. After an early breakfast at our hotel in Beijing, weʼll make a relatively short drive out of the city with our bags in tow to get into some of the remaining habitat in the hills on the outskirts of town. The remnant forest and foothill scrub of this area harbor a few Chinese endemics or near-endemics and should prove to be an excellent introduction to the wealth of birds on this tour. We might come across the likes of a flock of endearing Vinous-throated Parrotbills, or Chinese endemics and near-endemics such as Beijing Babbler (White-browed Chinese Warbler), Père Davidʼs Laughingthrush, or Yellow-bellied Tit. Lunch will likely be at the airport before our afternoon flight to Ulanhot on the border between Inner Mongolia and Jilin Province. After being met by our bus and local escort, weʼll make the two-and-one-half hour drive to our hotel in the small town of Zhenlai. Night in Zhenlai, Jilin. Days 4-8, Fri-Tue, 29 Apr-3 May. Momoge and Xianghai reserves, Manchuria. These two reserves and the surrounding area host some of East Asiaʼs scarcest birds among the scrub, reservoirs, plains, flooded depressions, and marshes of this seldom birded landscape. Foremost among the many targets here include no less than six species of cranes, including the impressive Siberian Crane (whose migrant numbers at this season can swell to nearly 3,000 birds—90% of the entire world population!), Oriental Stork, such scarce waterfowl as Swan and Lesser White-fronted geese, the very rare Baerʼs Pochard (numbers of this poorly-known duck have plummeted to a total of just hundreds in recent decades—but we managed to find a pair in 2014!), and the critically endangered Rufous-backed (Jankowskiʼs) Bunting (probably down to just a couple of hundred birds now) among more common species. Other birds that will certainly keep us busy here during our stay include stunning Falcated Duck and Baikal Teal in full breeding plumage, Great Bustard (actively displaying, we hope!), Little Curlew, Amur Falcon, Mongolian Lark, Chinese Gray Shrike, and a very impressive list of northbound East Asian migrants. On our several days in this area, weʼll find ourselves taking breakfast in the field on some mornings, and some days weʼll partake in a picnic lunch to maximize our time in the field in this productive and

Red-crowned is one of six species of crane we could see; by guide Dave Stejskal.


4 poorly known region. Many of the areas that weʼll visit here will require either rubber boots or NEOS, so please pack accordingly each morning when we leave our hotel. The number of nights that we spend near the Momoge Reserve and at the Xianghai Reserve will depend upon local conditions, but we will have five full days to explore these two productive areas in search of the many special birds here. Spring in Manchuria can really be lovely, but rain at this season is likely, so an umbrella and raincoat/rain pants are essential to have handy each day. Nights in Zhenlai and near Xianghai Reserve. Day 9, Wed, 4 May. Morning flight to Beijing; afternoon visit to Beijing Botanical Gardens. After an early breakfast at our hotel weʼll make our way to the Ulanhot Airport for our flight back to Beijing. After checking into our Beijing hotel, weʻll have lunch there before we drive to the west side of the city for our afternoon visit to the beautiful, and often birdy, Beijing Botanical Gardens. Weʼll bird here on foot this afternoon until just before sunset, enjoying a variety of residents and migrants alike. Night in Beijing. Day 10, Thu, 5 May. Morning flight to Xining. Weʼll depart our hotel after breakfast today in order to catch our mid-morning flight to Xining, capital of western Chinaʼs Qinghai province and close to the geographic center of China. At 7000 feet, Xining is our first opportunity to begin our adjustment to the higher elevations that weʼll encounter from here on. Once at the airport near Xining, weʼll be met by our drivers and then transfer to our hotel in this nearby growing metropolis. Weʼll have the afternoon to get our first taste of the local birds after less than an hourʼs drive to the north. Possibilities this afternoon include the likes of the recently split Salim Aliʼs Swift, the endemic Elliotʼs Laughingthrush, and the jewel-like White-browed Tit-Warbler. Night in Xining. Days 11-12, Fri-Sat, 6-7 May. Evergreen forest birding near Xining. Starting early on Day 11, weʼll devote the mornings and early afternoons to forest birding north and east of Xining, working at an easy pace in attractive areas of spruce and birch with adjoining terraced fields and buckthorn scrub. Though scarce, Daurian Partridge is seen on most visits. But it is warblers and various redstarts which are among the main attractions; with a bit of luck we should see Hodgsonʼs, Blue-fronted, White-bellied, Plumbeous, White-capped, and White-throated redstarts as well as Yellow-streaked, Humeʼs, Greenish, Buff-barred, and Gansu Leaf-warblers. Ring-necked Pheasants here are, of course, the real McCoy, but our minds will more than likely be occupied by such treats as the incredible and endemic Blue Eared-Pheasant and the gaudy Blood Pheasant, the shy endemic Severtzovʼs Grouse, Rufous-browed Accentor, Elliotʼs and Père Davidʼs laughingthrushes, Willow (Songar), Rufous-vented, and Gray-crested tits, Chinese and Przevalskiʼs nuthatches, the colorful endemic Crested Tit-Warbler, Chestnut and Chinese thrushes, and Gray-headed Bullfinch. The lovely Siberian Rubythroat breeds here, too, and weʼll have ample opportunity to track down one or more of these beautiful songsters. On some days soaring birds skirting the Tibetan Plateau on their way north are in evidence overhead—Black Stork, Oriental Honey Buzzard, the powerful Northern Goshawk, and Booted Eagle are among the possibilities, so weʼll be sure to keep our eyes on the sky as well as the conifers. Lunches on these two days will be in the field. Weʼll be birding at elevations between 8500-9600 feet, with at least one important hike from about 8700-9100 feet. A stop at a pass en route at 11,300 feet is a likelihood, weather permitting, and we will walk a short ways off the road and up a hill in this treeless habitat. Nights in Xining. Day 13, Sun, 8 May. To Koko Nor and Chaka. Leaving before dawn, weʼll head for the fabled Koko Nor. Weʼll be privileged to reach this vast body of azure water as the new day begins. After a full morning spent seeing our first truly Tibetan birds, weʼll enjoy lunch at a local restaurant before pressing on to Chaka, a small but growing town in the dry desert high on the Tibetan Plateau. The one comfortable hotel here will be our home for the next three nights.

This little gem is a White-browed Tit-Warbler, photographed by guide Dave Stejskal high on the Tibetan Plateau.


5 Having reached a height of 3200 meters, the likes of Bar-headed Goose, Lammergeier, Himalayan Griffon, Saker Falcon, and Pallasʼs and Brown-headed gulls await our discovery. Add an impressive list of larks such as Humeʼs, Mongolian, and Tibetan (Long-billed Calandra), and Oriental Skylark, Citrine Wagtail (including the fabulous breeding race calcarata), the entertaining Ground Tit (Humeʼs Groundpecker), and White-rumped, Père Davidʼs, and Rufous-necked snowfinches—and itʼs clear weʼre in for yet more thrilling birding. Red-crested Pochard, Ferruginous Duck, and other wildfowl use the lake as a staging area, attracting birds of prey such as Upland Buzzard, and, if we are in luck, the rare Pallasʼs Fish-Eagle. And that seventh species of crane on the checklist, the rare and stately Black-necked Crane, breeds on the grassy lake margins here as well. Behind Koko Nor, valleys give access to stunted scrub on Rubber Mountain, which is home to some very special birds. Here we should encounter our first Robin Accentor, along with White-backed (Kesslerʼs) Thrush, White-browed Tit-Warbler, the endemic White-browed Tit, Alpine Leaf-Warbler, and Rosy Pipit. But our main quarry will be the aberrant and endemic Przevalskiʼs Rosefinch (now in its own monotypic family). Spring is a wonderful season to search for this striking bird, when males make spectacular parachuting song display flights above the spiny alpine scrub. Itʼs a sight not to be missed! Moving on west we add flexibility to our birding options—clearly a bonus on a trip where migrants feature so strongly—with nearly three days devoted to working the semi-desert and the associated oases near Chaka, home to a number of range-restricted species and shelter to a number of passing migrants. Night in Chaka. Days 14-15, Mon-Tue, 9-10 May. Chaka area desert and nearby mountain canyons. The terrain surrounding the town of Chaka will remind North American birders of much of the parched, scenic land of the Great Basin, with expansive sandy flats vegetated with shrubs no taller than your thigh, alkaline basins, dramatic desert mountain ranges replete with rugged, rocky canyons lined with junipers, and isolated groves of trees providing relief from the frequent winds. While it looks familiar, the birds here are strange and new. The flats are home to the enigmatic Mongolian (Hendersonʼs) Ground-Jay, Pallasʼs Sandgrouse, and Blanfordʼs Snowfinch, and isolated poplar groves and fields often attract migrants or birds that seem hopelessly lost (like the Bearded Reedling we found near our hotel in 2014), while a nearby wadi is a regular site for Prezvalskiʼs Partridge, Upland Buzzard, and Mongolian Finch, and weʼll do well to watch for the fabulous Wallcreeper, Blue Sheep, and Goitered Gazelle, too! Chaka is an excellent base for sampling these varied habitats of the area, including a high elevation canyon near town that harbors a healthy population of the gorgeous and endemic Ala Shan (Przevalskiʼs) Redstart. Nights in Chaka. Day 16, Wed, 11 May. Final morning around Chaka; to Gonghe. After some productive days of birding the high desert around Chaka, weʼll press onward to the south. A few strategic stops along the way close to the road might give us looks at two beauties of these high mountains, Streaked (Eastern Great) Rosefinch and Great (Spotted) Rosefinch, and weʼll do well to watch the skies after mid-morning for soaring raptors. Himalayan Griffons and Lammergeiers are likely here at this season, as are a variety of Aquila eagles such as Steppe, Greater Spotted, Golden, and Imperial. Weʼll plan

Przevalskiʼs Rosefinch, a bird weʼll look for on Rubber Mountain, is in its own monotypic family. Photo by guide Dave Stejskal.


6 to arrive at our comfortable hotel in the growing city of Gonghe around lunchtime, and weʼll enjoy a surprisingly good meal at a nearby restaurant after settling into our rooms. After a short break, weʼll try our luck birding in a nearby irrigated valley, the greening poplars and lush fields of which are sure to hold some surprises for us (like the recently split Margelanic Whitethroat and endemic Silver-throated Tit!). Night at Gonghe. Day 17, Thu, 12 May. To Er La Pass area. Weʼll depart Gonghe early this morning, with plans of a picnic breakfast en route to our main birding destination of the day—Er La Pass. We plan to have two full days in this starkly beautiful country, searching for many of the species listed above and for a number of other enticing species. Weʼll have another chance at the beautiful Black-necked Crane in case weʼve missed it back at Koko Nor. Scarce mammals feature prominently in this region where so few Western birders and naturalists have ever ventured. Tibetan Gazelle, the Kiang, or Wild Ass, the lovely Tibetan Fox, or even the ultra-rare Przevalskiʼs Gazelle could oblige with careful scanning. Snow Leopard is a remote possibility; it was seen in the area by Jesper in 1995—that possibility alone should keep all eyes scanning as we drive and bird. Up to this point weʼve been very careful not to exert ourselves too much at this very high altitude, doing much of our birding on mostly flat terrain and conducting our hikes at a careful, measured pace. But, after taking so much care to become acclimated to the high elevation on the “Roof of the World,” weʼll attempt our first hike near Er La Pass this afternoon to try to track down a very special quarry—the near-mythical Tibetan (Roborovskiʼs) Rosefinch. Weʼve had good luck with this very rare and beautiful Qinghai endemic species and hope that we can repeat that performance this year. Weʼll base ourselves in a very simple, but comfortable hotel for the next two nights. Night in Wenquan. Day 18, Fri, 13 May. Er La Pass area. We plan to divide our time in this remote region of Qinghai Province between birding in the flat plains near our accommodations and on the slopes of the high passes on either side of town, all the while being fully aware of the high altitude at which we are walking and hiking (12,500-15,750 foot range here). The avifauna here is highly specialized and includes a number of species not easily found, including Tibetan Snowcock, Barbary Falcon, Alpine Accentor, White-winged (Guldenstadtʼs) Redstart, White-browed Tit, White-browed Tit-Warbler, Tibetan (Henriʼs) and Black-winged snowfinches, and Black-headed (Brandtʼs) and Plain mountain-finches. Again, weʼll keep an eye open for mammals here like Pallasʼs Cat and Gray Wolf, both of which were seen on our 2013 tour! Night in Wenquan. Day 19, Sat, 14 May. Er La Pass; to Gonghe. Weʼll load up our vehicles early this morning before heading back to Er La Pass for a picnic breakfast and another hike above the road. The plan this morning is to hike up about one thousand feet in elevation from the road edge up to a ridge top at 15,750 feet to search the barren, rocky ground here for the enigmatic Tibetan Sandgrouse—surely one of the hardiest birds on the planet! This will be our highest elevation achieved on this tour, and by now all of us should be quite acclimated to the high altitude of the Tibetan Plateau. Still, weʼll take it slowly, looking for whatever has eluded us to this point. Views atop this ridge are stunning and are worth the hike alone—but we do hope to snag a sandgrouse or two in the process! Weʼll head back to the vehicles by late morning (sooner, if weʼre successful early) and then slowly make our way back to our comfortable hotel in Gonghe for the night. Night in Gonghe. Day 20, Sun, 15 May. Koko Nor; return to Xining. Weʼll make our way back to the southern shores of Koko Nor this morning in search of anything that eludes us or just to enjoy the grandeur of birding here again. A search of an isolated grove of trees for northbound migrants might prove rewarding as well. After a restaurant lunch, weʼll make the two-hour drive back to our modern hotel in Xining. Night in Xining. Day 21, Mon, 16 May. Morning birding near Xining; afternoon flight to Beijing. Before catching our flight back to Beijing, we will visit a forest area near Xining for much of the morning. Here we might encounter the shy and outrageously beautiful Crested Tit-Warbler and the little-known Przevalskiʼs Nuthatch; there is nowhere better in the world to search for them! Weʼll have a delicious farewell dinner in Beijing near our hotel this evening before those of us heading home bid Jesper adieu. Night in Beijing. Day 22, Tue, 17 May. Departure for the US; start of post-tour extension. Our flight home departs Beijing this morning. If youʼre taking the Cultural & Historical Beijing extension, this post-tour trip begins today after breakfast.


7

Cultural & Historical Beijing Extension with Jesper Hornskov Days 1-4, Tue-Fri, 17-20 May. This extension will cover the top sights of Chinaʼs capital while not neglecting the birdwatching potential of late spring, when many Siberian species are still coming through on passage and local breeders are more active. The order in which we visit these sites during our stay will be determined by your guide at the time of the extension. During our four days weʼll expect to cover: Hutongs—Beijingʼs traditional courtyard houses set on narrow lanes have been protected in several areas, and weʼll enjoy a leisurely stroll thatʼll give us an idea of what the city was like before twenty-plus years of double-digit economic growth changed China forever. Enterprising locals have ensured that this is a great place to pick up presents or souvenirs from cozy little shops. Botanical Gardens—Starting early from our hotel, weʼll do a picnic breakfast as part of our stroll about the vast, surprisingly diverse, and frequently birdy gardens. Sleeping Buddha Temple—This attractive temple is hiding under ancient trees inside the Botanical Gardens—simply ideal for anyone keen to combine sightseeing with birdwatching! Great Wall—Built at a bankrupting cost and ultimately failing to protect The Middle Kingdom from the barbarian menace, this impressive 3000kms-long structure has to be seen. Forbidden City—Off-limits to the people for centuries, visitors are now allowed to walk through the emperorʼs palace. A superb experience, if a bit crowded on weekends. Wangfujing—Very much a place of the present, Beijingʼs traditional central commercial street seems to embody what China aspires to be: a place of throbbing success and economic progress. Inside the shiny, towering buildings, even the toilets are immaculate, and anything you could possibly want is available…as are 10,000 things no one could possibly want! In contrast to the metropolitan malls are several dignified shops with a 100 years of history: you can choose between silk by the meter or finely tailored clothing, Chinese delicacies such as smoked Manchurian sausages or a variety of Beijing fruit candies, or you may be tempted to pick up a book or two on aspects of traditional Chinese culture such as holistic medicine, taichi exercise, or the ancient Dao belief system from the Foreign Languages Book Store. OR you can opt to sit down for a while at open-air refreshment joint to indulge in some serious people watching. Panjiayuan Market—Subject to interest and time constraints, we may fit in a visit to this flea and antiques market. Look out for jars labeled “made in 500 BC” and artificially aged bronze figurines! Summer Palace—Starting early from our hotel, weʼll do a picnic breakfast as part of our stroll about the attractive and frequently birdy (wild Mandarin Duck, anyone? Yellow Bittern?) grounds of the beautifully landscaped gardens. Lama Temple—Protected by special decree from the ravages of “anti-tradition” movements such as the Cultural

Taking a break on the Great Wall; by guide Jay VanderGaast.


8 Revolution (1966-76), this large, delightful temple is now seeing an influx of new worshippers and nowhere in Beijing is people watching better combined with seeing one of the crown jewels of Asian culture. Temple of Heaven—Situated in a vast park and open to the public, this impressive temple is where Chinaʼs emperors performed complicated, strict rites every spring aimed at ensuring good harvests. Acrobat show—Renowned throughout the world for their skill and endurance, Chinese acrobats from around the country visit the capital to perform a must-see, colorful show of jaw-dropping feats developed from an age-old repertoire. Beijing Duck banquet—We couldnʼt pass up this chance to enjoy a world-conquering delicacy “in its native habitat,” could we? Day 5, Sat, 21 May. Departure for the U.S. Our flights home depart Beijing this morning after breakfast at our hotel. About Your Guides Jay VanderGaast was introduced to birding by his father, and his obsession with birds was evident by age seven when he memorized the plates in Peterson's eastern field guide. He went on to earn a B.S. in biology at university and briefly contemplated a career in research, but two years on the mosquito-infested arctic tundra watching ptarmigan do little other than occasionally getting eaten by Gyrfalcons soon put an end to that plan! Instead, he strapped on a backpack and a pair of bins and began roaming the world in search of birds. His travels eventually led him to Costa Rica, where he stumbled into a job as a birding guide at Rancho Naturalista Lodge. Amazed that he was actually getting paid to watch birds, he jealously guarded his position there for six years. His career with Field Guides coincided with the dawn of the new millennium (if you believe that began in 2000!), and since then he has guided more than 100 tours on several continents. When he's not on tour, Jay's native habitat is his home near Montreal, where he lives with his partner, Annie, and their children—daughters Ariane and Elodie, and son Noah. Jay co-led the first Field Guides China tour with Jesper in 2005. Born in 1963 in Denmark, Jesper Hornskov began birding in 1975 at the age of twelve. He almost immediately became interested in the study of migration, which kept him busy travelling in Europe. In 1980, when his wanderlust set in, he took several extended jaunts to Israel, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, India and Nepal, and the Philippines, all of several months duration and all mostly done before leaving high school! Before arriving in China in 1987, he also birded in Australia, Papua New Guinea, and Hong Kong. China captured his heart (literally, since this is where he met his wife and his wanderlust was somewhat sated), and he has lived there continuously since 1988, leading more than 80 birdwatching trips of up to a month's duration during that time for many individuals and private groups, as well as a number of commercial bird tour companies. Jesper holds the record for the number of species seen in China, including over 360 species within five kilometres of his apartment in Beidaihe where he moved in the autumn in 1997. He also lived for nine years in Qinghai province and discovered several of the sites we'll visit on this tour. Jesper speaks Danish, English, daily-use Chinese, and a fair bit of Swedish and Norwegian for those of you from Minnesota.

Financial Information FEE: $8975 from Beijing BEIJING EXTENSION: $1850 (with 6 participants; we may operate with fewer than 6 with a small party supplement) AIRFARE: Please check with your tour manager for the best flights from your home to Beijing. DEPOSIT: $900 per person FINAL PAYMENT DUE: December 28, 2015 SINGLE SUPPLEMENT (Optional): $1075 for the main tour, $375 for the extension LIMIT: 13

Other Things You Need to Know TOUR MANAGER: The manager for this tour is Ruth Kuhl. Ruth will be happy to assist you in preparing for the tour. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to call her!


9 ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD: Accommodations in Beijing, Zhenlai, Xianghai, Xining, Chaka, and Gonghe all have modern facilities with western-style private bathrooms. They are the best available in the area, and only Chaka, with its solar-heated water for showers and not-quite-state-of-the-art plumbing, will be fairly primitive by western standards. At this writing, bathing at our basic hotel near Er La Pass is with a washcloth and hot water from thermoses! Bathroom facilities at Er La Pass, where we plan to spend two nights, are shared and consist of a primitive outdoor pit toilet. At most of the hotels, the beds tend to be quite firm to very hard; thus, if you prefer a softer sleep surface and have the space, you might consider packing an inflatable mattress and/or a light sleeping bag. (Most participants on our past tours have been fine with the hotel mattresses.) Overall, you should be prepared for a standard of living below that to which you are accustomed at home, at least for the latter part of the trip. However, local people will certainly do their utmost to make our stay as pleasurable as possible. All meals and tea are provided throughout the tour. On the Tibetan Plateau, evening meals will generally be taken at our hotels, while breakfast and lunch may be in rather basic restaurants or taken as a picnic from our ground agentʼs stock of provisions as appropriate to maximize time spent in the field. We will make the most of what is available, but expect some meals away from Xining to be on the simple side, if still both tasty and nourishing. At Beijing, Zhenlai, Xianghai, Xining, Chaka, and Gonghe a variety of delicious Chinese food is available. At Er La our simple main meal across the street will be in the evening, with breakfast and lunch taken where our birding efforts lead us. Note that in Qinghai, sunrise and sunset are both quite late, as the whole country is on Beijing time and therefore our evening meals are usually taken fairly late as well. DOCUMENTS: A current passport and a visa are necessary for US citizens to enter China. When you register for the tour, our office will require a copy of the title page of your passport, which our supplier will use to complete the Tourist Invitation Letter to be submitted with your visa application. We will forward visa instructions at the appropriate time. When you receive your passport from the Chinese consulate with your new Chinese visa inside, please check to see that the dates of your visa coincide with the dates of your entire stay in China. If you are not a US citizen, please check with the Chinese consulate nearest you for entry requirements. Information about consulates and entry requirements is generally available online or you can contact us and we will be happy to look this up for you. Passports should have an adequate number of blank pages for the entire journey. Some countries require a blank page for their stamp and as a precaution it is best to have one blank page per country you will visit or transit. AIR ARRANGEMENTS: Please check with your tour manager for the best flights from your home to Beijing. Airfare for the round-trip flight from the US to Beijing is not included in the tour fee, but all flights within China are included. Field Guides is a full service travel agency and your tour manager will be happy to assist you with flights to join this tour. Field Guides does not charge a service fee for these services to clients booking a tour. However, we understand that tech-savvy clients often prefer to shop online or that you may wish to use mileage to purchase tickets. Regardless of which method you choose, your tour manager will be happy to provide assistance regarding ticket prices and schedules, along with extra hotel nights as needed. Please be sure to check with your tour manager prior to purchasing your ticket to make sure the flights you have chosen will work well with the tour itinerary and that the tour is sufficiently subscribed to operate. Once purchased, most airline tickets are non-refundable and carry a penalty to change. Field Guides cannot be responsible for these fees. Also, it is imperative that we receive a copy of your comprehensive flight itinerary—including any and all flights not covered in the tour fee—so that we may track you in the event of missed connections, delays, or other mishaps. LUGGAGE: Please be aware that many airlines have recently modified their luggage policies and are charging additional fees for checked bags. Updates could easily occur before your departure, so you may wish to contact your airline to verify the policy. Additional charges for bags on any flights, whether these are covered by the tour fee or not, will be the clientʼs responsibility. TOUR INCLUSIONS/EXCLUSIONS: The tour fee is $8975 for one person in double occupancy from Beijing. The fees include all lodging from Day 2 through Day 21, all meals from dinner on Day 2 through breakfast on Day 22, all flights within China, all ground transportation, entrance fees, and the guide services of the tour leader(s). Tipping at group meals and for drivers, porters, and local guides is included in your tour fee and will be handled for the group by your Field Guides


10 leader(s). However, if you would like to recognize your Field Guides leader(s) or any local guide(s) for exceptional service, it is entirely appropriate to tip. We emphasize that such tips are optional and not expected. The above fees do not include your airfare to and from Beijing, airport taxes, visa fees, any checked or carry-on baggage charges imposed by the airlines, any alcoholic beverages, optional tips to local drivers, phone calls, laundry, or other items of a personal nature. The single supplement for the tour is $1075. Singles are available throughout. If you do not have a roommate but wish to share, we will try to pair you with a roommate from the tour; but if none is available, you will be billed for the single supplement. Our tour fees are based on double occupancy; one-half the cost of a double room is priced into the tour fee. The single supplement is calculated by taking the actual cost of a single room and subtracting one-half the cost of a double room (plus any applicable taxes). The fee for the Beijing Extension is $1850 for one person in double occupancy from Beijing. The fees include all lodging from Day 1 through Day 4, all meals from lunch on Day 1 through breakfast on Day 5, all ground transportation, entrance fees, tips for baggage handling and meal service, and the guide services of the tour leader(s). The above fees do not include your airfare to and from Beijing, airport taxes, visa fees, any checked or carry-on baggage charges imposed by the airlines, any alcoholic beverages, optional tips to local drivers, phone calls, laundry, or other items of a personal nature. The single supplement for the extension is $375. TOUR REGISTRATION: To register for this tour, complete the Registration/Release and Indemnity form and return it with a deposit of $900 per person. If registering by phone, a deposit must be received within fourteen days, or the space will be released. Full payment of the tour fee is due 120 days prior to departure, or by December 28, 2015. We will bill you for the final payment at either 120 days or when the tour has reached sufficient subscription to operate, whichever date comes later. Since the cost of your trip insurance and airline tickets is generally non-refundable, please do not finalize these purchases until you have received final billing for the tour or have been advised that the tour is sufficiently subscribed to operate by your tour manager. SMOKING: Almost all of our clients prefer a smoke-free environment. If you smoke, please be sensitive to the group and refrain from smoking at meals, in vehicles, and in proximity to the group on trails and elsewhere. CANCELLATION POLICY: Refund of deposit and payment, less $100 handling fee, will be made if cancellation is received up to 120 days before departure. If cancellation occurs between 119 and 70 days before the departure date, 50% of the tour fee is refundable. Thereafter, all deposits and payments are not refundable. This policy only applies to payments made to Field Guides for tour (and any services included in those fees). Airline tickets not included in the tour fee and purchased separately often carry penalties for cancellation or change, or are sometimes totally non-refundable. Additionally, if you take out trip insurance the cost of the insurance is not refundable so it is best to purchase the policy just prior to making full payment for the tour or at the time you purchase airline tickets, depending upon the airlines restrictions. The right is reserved to cancel any tour prior to departure, in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. The right is reserved to substitute in case of emergency another guide for the original one. TRIP CANCELLATION & MEDICAL EMERGENCY INSURANCE: We strongly recommend you consider purchasing trip cancellation (including medical emergency) insurance to cover your investment in case of injury or illness to you or your family prior to or during a trip. Because we must remit early (and substantial) tour deposits to our suppliers, we cannot offer any refund when cancellation occurs within 70 days of departure, and only a partial refund from 70 to 119 days prior to departure (see CANCELLATION POLICY). In addition, the Department of State strongly urges Americans to consult with their medical insurance company prior to traveling abroad to confirm whether their policy applies overseas and if it will cover emergency expenses such as a medical evacuation. US medical insurance plans seldom cover health costs incurred outside the United States unless supplemental coverage is purchased. Furthermore, US Medicare and Medicaid programs do not provide payment for medical services outside the United States. When making a decision regarding health insurance, Americans should consider that many foreign doctors and hospitals require payment in cash prior to providing service and that a medical evacuation to the United States may cost well in excess of $50,000. Uninsured travelers who require medical care overseas often face extreme difficulties. When consulting with your insurer prior to your trip, please ascertain whether payment will be made to the overseas healthcare provider or whether you will be reimbursed later for expenses that you incur.


11 US and Canadian citizens will receive from us a brochure regarding optional tour cancellation/emergency medical insurance. Our agent, CSA, will insure for trip cancellation and interruption, medical coverage, travel delay, baggage loss and delay, 24-hour accident protection, and emergency medical transportation. If you purchase the insurance when making final payment for the tour, pre-existing conditions are covered. The CSA brochure includes a contact number; you may also purchase your CSA policy on-line by visiting our website at www.fieldguides.com/travelinsurance.htm and clicking the link to CSA. Please note, once the insurance is purchased it is non-refundable, so please check with your tour manager prior to making the purchase to assure the tour will operate as scheduled. Citizens of other countries are urged to consult their insurance broker. RESPONSIBILITY: For and in consideration of the opportunity to participate in the tour, each tour participant and each parent or legal guardian of a tour participant who is under 18 agrees to release, indemnify, and hold harmless Field Guides Incorporated, its agents, servants, employees, shareholders, officers, directors, attorneys, and contractors as more fully set forth in the Release and Indemnity Agreement on the reverse side of the registration form. Field Guides Incorporated acts only as an agent for the passenger in regard to travel, whether by railroad, motorcar, motorcoach, boat, airplane, or other means, and assumes no liability for injury, damage, loss, accident, delay, or irregularity caused by defect in such vehicles or for any reason whatsoever, including the acts, defaults, or bankruptcies of any company or person engaged in conveying the passenger or in carrying out the arrangements of the tour. Field Guides Incorporated accepts no responsibility for losses or additional expenses due to delay or changes in air or other services, sickness, weather, strike, war, quarantine, or other causes. The tour participant shall bear all such losses and expenses. Field Guides Incorporated reserves the right to substitute hotels of similar category for those indicated and to make any changes in the itinerary where deemed necessary or caused by changes in air schedules. Field Guides Incorporated reserves the right to decline to accept or to retain any person as a member of any tour. Baggage is at ownerʼs risk entirely. Participants should be in good health and should consult a physician before undertaking a tour. If you have questions about the physical requirements of a tour, please contact our office for further information. Participants should prepare for the tour by reading the detailed itinerary, the information bulletin, and other pertinent matter provided by Field Guides. Each participant is responsible for bringing appropriate clothing and equipment as recommended in our bulletins. THE RECEIPT OF YOUR TOUR DEPOSIT SHALL BE DEEMED TO BE CONSENT TO THE ABOVE CONDITIONS. EACH TOUR PARTICIPANT AND EACH PARENT OR LEGAL GUARDIAN OF A TOUR PARTICIPANT WHO IS UNDER 18 SHALL SIGN AND DELIVER THE RELEASE AND INDEMNITY AGREEMENT AT THE TIME OF REGISTRATION. 01/15DS 7/15ADR

field guides · 2015-07-28 · 2 field guides incorporated • 800•728•4953 •...

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