fences for all reasons

8/2/2019 Fences for All Reasons

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RedwoodFences

For All Reasons


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Redwood fencescapturing the greatoutdoors for you

There are many ways a thought-fully designed fence can touch yourlife. Once you sink the posts and sethammer to nail, the results can be

transformational, especially whenyou work with redwoodone of

natures most beautiful, functionaland enduring materials.

This booklet will stimulateyour imagination by providing youwith a wealth of creative redwoodfence designs. Youll also find thenecessary step-by-step constructiontechniques for planning, designingand building your fence.

REDWOOD FENCES FORALL REASONS 2

Fence ideas and detail drawings

CHOOSE THE RIGHT

STYLE 10

Questions and considerations

Design your fence 10

Establish layout priorities

Draw a site plan

Make a rough layout

Legal considerationsBUILD YOUR FENCE 11

Lumber grades and uses

Garden grades

Architectural grades

Posts and rails 12

Set posts

Add rails

Attach

fenceboards 13

Nail-on fencing stylesInset fencing styles

Nails and fasteners

BUILD AND HANG

A GATE 15

Step-by-step construction

Hardware options

FINISHES 16

1

Clockwise from top: a simple inset board-and-board fence encloses a patio; 2x4 wall

treatment allows filtration of light and air through to a spa and deck; craftsman style

gate with an open trellis creates an inviting entrance.

CRA, 1994


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Redwood fences forall reasons

There is something deeplysatisfying about a fence. Whether

were talking about a simple, rough-hewn structure that meandersaround your property or an

intricately designed barrier for apool and patio, a fence adds qualityto your personal spaces.

A perimeter fence is an attractiveway to separate your property from

the neighbors and to more fully per-sonalize the land around your home.If there are children next door, asolid fence can help keep baseballsfrom rolling into your flower beds,

and it can discourage passers-byfrom taking an occasional shortcutacross a carefully clipped lawn.

Fences are also great for thosewho value privacy. Cozy spacescan be fashioned for reading andrelaxing that are totally shelteredfrom the outside world, or you can

section off larger areaseven anentire yardto form an area that ispersonal and protected.

Fences also define areas forspecialized use, such as a pool andpatio, a dog run, or an area for aprivate garden, while smallersections of fences can be employedas an integral part of the propertys

overall landscaping design.

For the security-minded, a solidsurrounding structure serves as apsychological, as well as a physical,deterrent to intruders.

Depending on where your homeis located, noise and traffic from anadjacent road can be bothersome, orprevailing winds and harsh sunlight

may interfere with your enjoymentof the outdoors. By softeningsounds and providing a barrier towind and sun, a fence can extendthe time you spend outdoors andincrease the pleasure of outdoorliving. In addition, by reshaping theexterior spaces, a fence will con-tribute to your homes overall

ambiance, appearance and value.

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Window box design

This perimeter fence affords bothmaximum privacy and an opportunity to

provide a backdrop for plantings. Though

projecting a highly finished look, the fence

is made from an economical grade of

redwood. The Merchantable grade

redwood used for the fenceboards con-

tains a combination

of heartwood and

sapwood. A 2x4

intermediate rail

adds design interest.

Sturdy screen dividerThe screen divider has an attractively

massive look with diagonal fenceboards

adding a touch of lightness to the solid,

box-like design. Knot-containing garden

grades of redwoodConstruction Heart

and Construction Commonare ideal for

a structure of this

type. These grades

provide the strength

and durability redwood

is known for at an

economical price.

6'0"

18"

18"

2"x6cap

1"x8"fencing

2"x4"rail

6"x6"

post

2"x6" rail

2"x4" trim

2"x6"

2"x6" cap

1"x8"

2"x4"

2"x4"

2"x6"cap

4"x4"

6'0"

4"x6" post

2"x4"1"x4"

4"x6" rail

4"x6"post

2"x4"framing

1"x4"fencing

4"x6"rail

4"x6"rail

2"x4"framing


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Post-board-and-rail fenceHere is an ideal design for enclosing aback yard or corner lot. The height ofthe fence effectively screens out streetsights and sounds, and the spacing ofthe boards can be varied to accommodatea specified amount ofair flow and privacy.Built of Clear grade

redwood, the con-trasting sapwood-heartwood contentadds color interest tothe design.

Knotty, rustic and functional

A rustic fence of Construction Heartredwood defines a property line. Thefence is personalized with built-in benchesand planters to add extra beauty andliveability to a house and yard. Thetrellis-shaded fenceprovides maximumprivacy and protectionfrom wind whileserving as anattractive supportfor flowering vines.

Gabled hillside fenceA series of redwood fence panels arestepped along a sloping site to create astructure of startling originality. Sectionsare built with Construction Heart 4x4posts, 2x4 frames and 1x2 and 1x6redwood fencing.

Whimsical gabledredwood roofsalternate withsections of 1x1upright boards.

3

6'6"

1"x4" and1"x8"fencing

4"x4"post

2"x4"rails

1"x4" and 1"x8"

2"x4"

4"x4"

2"x4" blocking

2"x4"rail

6'4"


4"x6" post

2"x4"trellis

1"x8" and 1"x4"

4"x6"

1"x4"

2"x6"notchedrail

2"x6"

2"x4" rails

1"x4"verticalnailer

6'0"

2"x2"

1"x10"1"x6"

2"x4" rail

2"x4" rail

2"x4" rail

double 1"x2"and 1"x6"fencing

4"x4" post

1"x2" nailer

1"x2" nailer

1"x6" and 1"x2"4"x4"

1"x2"

1"x2" uprightsor 1"x6"

1"x1" nailer

2"x4"


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Each 8-foot module of this geometrically-shaped perimeter fence consists of 1x6stopped with five 18-inch squares crossedwith 2x4s. This design adds character tothe post-and-board security fence.

A solid board fence of ConstructionHeart redwood divides and makes privatea commonly shared yard behind a SanFrancisco Victorian duplex. Lattice top andfinials add old-fashioned, romantic charm.

To distinguish two separate entrances, thedesigner created this divider fence withlacy redwood lattice panels. Both sidespresent an equally finished look.

4

Craftsman-style fenceThis fence is characterized by the use ofrounded edges and custom craftsmanship.Situated along a front and side yard, thefence echoes both the Japanese characterof the landscaping, and the Craftsmanelements of a classicshingle house. Fence-boards are spaced

apart allowing for avisual connectionbetween the sculptedplants and thegarden within.

Dog-eared security fence

Built for a home constructed in a Victorianstyle, this fence of 1x8 Construction Heartredwood creates security and privacy.Alternating boards have been cut in adog-eared pattern to add visual interestto an otherwise plain fence design.Security is enhancedwith airy wroughtiron gates. A shadetrellis lends designcontininuity and issupported by 6x6s.

6'0"


4"x4" post

1"x2" trim

1"x3" nailers

2"x6"cap rail

1"x10"kickboard

2"x4" rail

1"x3"1"x4" and 1"x6"

4"x4"

1"x10"2"x4"

6'0"

1"x8"fencing

4"x4" post

2"x4"cap rail

2"x4" rail

1"x8"

4"x4" 2"x4"


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5

Oriental entry and fence

Posts, rails and beams of this attractivefence and pergola were constructed fromClear All Heart redwood. Fenceboards are1x6s while the structural members anddecorative elements of the pergola arefashioned from largerdimension redwoodtimbers. Diagonalgate boards soften theimpressive entrance.

Security and privacy fenceA seven-foot-tall fence of ConstructionHeart redwood buffers traffic noise ona busy main street. The massive,stockade-like design is a board-on-boardgood neighbor style that looks goodfrom either side.

Supporting the 1x12fenceboards, 2x8 toprails, kick board andcap rail are 6x8posts. Capitalsadd a light touch.

Post-and-rail boundary fenceBlending with an existing arbor, thissimple post-and-rail style fence offersboth security and elegance. Designdetails such as the kickboard and2x6 cap rail create visual interest.Custom latticeworkon the gate is con-tained by a 2x8

intermediate rail.Fenceboards arealternating 1x4sand 1x6s with1 inch spaces.

6'0" 1"x4" and1"x6"fencing

4"x4" post

2"x6" caprail

1"x10"kickboard

1"x6" and 1"x4"

4"x4" 1"x10"

1"x4" nailers

1"x3" trim

1"x3"

1"x3"

6'0"1"x4" fencing

4"x4" post

2"x6" cap rail

1"x6" doublerail

1"x4"4"x4"

1"x6"

1"x6" nailers

7'0"

2"x8" cap rail

6"x8" post

6"x8"

1"x12"lappedfencing

1"x10"

2"x10" and2"x8" capital

2"x8" nailers

2"x8" nailers

2"x8"

2" capital


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Built with Construction Heart redwood,this trellis provides shade and adds afinished look to a gated boundary fence.The garden grade redwood adds a rustic,natural feeling at an economical cost.

A painted redwood gate serves as an out-door foyer, creating privacy and personalityfor the yard. The widely spaced latticeprotects the yard without isolating it.

Rooftop-style canopy over a Craftsmanfence shelters the entrance beneath it.Shingles on the canopy echo the design ofthe home. Posts are 6x6s and support the4x4s of the canopy.

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Intricate pool-side screenVisual interest and privacy for a spa areprovided by combining two differentfence designs. The elegant lattice, builtwith 2x2s which alternate front to back,creates a decorative and airy screen, whilethe louvered screen provides privacy andwind protection. Overhead trellises areused to shade benches and support

hanging plants,while built-inplanters completethe inviting setting.

6'0"

6"x6" post


2"x2" verticalrails

2"x6" cap rail

2"x6" rail

6"x6"

1"x2" and 1"x6"

2"x2" 2"x6"

Louvered privacy screenLouvered construction is a sophisticatedway to let in light and fresh breezes whilemaintaining privacy. This all ConstructionHeart 8-foot redwood garden screen addsvisual interest to the garden setting of thisback yard. Louversshould always bebuilt of dimensionallystable lumber suchas redwood toprevent twistingduring the weather-ing process. 8'0"

2"x4"miteredspacers

4"x4"cap rail

4"x4" post

1"x6" fence

2"x4" miteredspacer

2"x4" rail

6"

36"

4"x4"notch

1"x6"

mitered2"x4"

triangularspacers

1"x6"


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7

Grapestake fenceA rustic, yet contemporary six-foot-tallgrapestake fence creates security andprivacy in a front yard. Grapestakes arerough-cut, pointed 2x2s which vary inwidth, thickness and length. Supportrails, top and bottom, are 2x4s. Brickcolumns, topped byantique-type lights,

frame a 1x6 redwoodgate and help tocreate an impressiveentrance way.

6'0"

2"x4" 2"x2"

4"x4"

2"x4" cap rail

4"x4" post

2"x2"fencing

2"x4" rail

Latticework front yard fence

The latticework boundary fence wasbuilt to complement a turn-of-the-centurywhite cottage and English garden. The4x4 posts are shaped at the top to addarchitectural interest. All redwood wasfinished with a white solid body stainwhich does not peel and flake the waypaints do.

3'0"

1"x1" nailers

1"x2" lattice

2"x4" rail

2"x4" rail

8"

4"x4" post

1"x1"

1"x2"

2"x4"4"x4"

1"x1" nailers

Basketweave fenceClassic six-foot-tall basketweave fencebuilt along a side yard on a small lotcreates a property line marker and pro-vides privacy from nearby neighbors.The 3/8x8 fenceboards, specially orderedfrom the lumber supplier, were resawn

from 1x8s. Postsare 4x6s, the insertsare 1x2s and thekickboards and railcap are both madeof 2x6s.

6'0"

1"x2"verticalnailer

2"x4" caprail

1"x2"verticalinsert

3/8"x8"fencing

4"x4" post

2"x6"kickboard

1"x2"

1"x2"

4"x4"

3/8"x8"2"x6"


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The extra deep window box acts like agreenhouse window, brightening theclassic board-and-board fence. It alsoprovides a showcase area for plantsand flowers.

This redwood screen was constructed tohide a garden tool area at one end of apatio, and features custom latticework andcopper inserts that have been chemicallyaged to a rich turquoise patina.

Privacy screen surrounding a built-in spafeatures an intricate cutout framed with aseries of 2x4 boxes. Gentle breezes andfiltered light keep the space from feelingdark and confined.

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Privacy fence for spaThe Clear All Heart redwood fence allowsprivacy while permitting air and lightto filter through to a 8-foot spa andbeyond to the master bedroom. Redwooddecking, planters and bench complementthe 1/4x4-inch benderboard fence. The 1x2vertical nailers are

attached to bothsides of the fencingto provide structuralstability and strength.

8'0"1/4"x4"benderboard

2"x6" rails2"x6"

4"x4" post

2"x6" caprail

1"x2"verticalnailers

1/4"x4"

4"x4"

1"x2"

Solid wall fenceThis solid perimeter fence and pergolaallow privacy and protection, while thelattice fence top and gates preserve acertain airiness and light motif. Thefencing, attached to both sides of the2x4 framing, matches the 1x8 shiplapsiding of thehouse. Thepalatial pergolais constructedwith 6x6 poststhat support 6x6s,4x4s and 2x4s.

6'6"

5'0"

2"x4"1"x8"

4"x4" post/2"x4" nailer

2"x6" caprail

1"x1" lattice1"x3" trim

2"x8" toprail

2"x4" rail

4"x4"

1"x3" trim

1"x8"shiplapsiding

4'

1"x3"

1"x1"2"x8"


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Choose theright styleredwood fence

A fence is an extension of yourhome, and calls for as much atten-tion to its purpose, style and designas if you were adding another room.

In your planning you need tostart with specific questions. Whyare you building the fence and howwill it complement the characterand design of your home? Are you

defining a boundary? Are youlooking to create more privacy orshield yourself from unwantednoise? Or is your purpose to con-struct a wind break, add shade to adeck or discourage the family dog

from running loose in the neighbor-hood? Not all fences are appropriate

for all purposes.Consider, too, how your neigh-

bors will view the fence. Somefences look wonderfully finishedon your side, yet present neighborswith a less appealing view, whileother designs look equally attractivefrom either side. A friendly chat

with your neighbors can lead to adesign that pleases all parties, and

they may even be willing to splitthe cost of materials and labor.

Design your fenceThere are a surprising number of

fence styles to choose from, manyof which are included in this

booklet. There are also do-it-your-self books that contain a wealth ofideas and illustrations. Thumbingthrough them is a good way to getthe process rolling.

You may choose to settle on anexisting design, or you can createyour design from scratch. You can

also modify a basic design into alook distinctively yours. Youll findit fun to experiment, and even smallvariations will make a big difference.Keep in mind that you only need toplan the details for one typical bay(the section of fence from one postto the next). From there you can

calculate everything else you needfor a fence of any length.

Remember, if youre workingwithin a limited budget, you canstill build a fence that does the jobwithout sacrificing quality bychoosing a style that uses lesslumber or a more economical grade

of redwood. You can also bringdown costs by making the best useof standard lumber lengths.

Establish your layoutpriorities

A fence can impact your site inmany different ways, so in yourplanning you need to think about

which aspects of the site you wantto retain and which youd like tochange. Before you finalize your

fence line, carefully review yourpriorities to confirm that all yourkey considerations are beingcovered. Some of the questionsyoull want to answer are...

s Which views do you want to keep

or block?s Which areas would you liketo conceal?s Where are the activity areasand what are the traffic patterns inthose areas?s

What needs to be protected fromthe sun or prevailing winds?

s Is there noise youd like to block?

Where is it coming from?

s Do you want the fence to support

certain vines and shrubs?s Are there places where the fencemust be in scale with existinglandscaping or coordinated withexisting structures like trellisesand planters?

Address anything that may

have a bearing on your fencelayout. The more thoroughly youdo this, the happier youll be withthe finished product.

Draw a site planYoull find it easier and less

costly to resolve all your key issueswhile youre still at the conceptualstage. But to do this, youll need tohave a site plan. You can draw asite plan in an hour or two, or you

can look for a copy of an existingplan with the building department,designer or architect, building

contractor, landscape contractor oreven a previous owner. Once youhave a plan of your property, youcan experiment with different fenceline schemes.

Start by making a rough sketch ofthe site, including such things as siteperimeter, the houseplan, driveway,patios, walkways, garden beds and

utilities. You will also want toindicate grade, sun and windorientation, and the characteristicsof surrounding structures and

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Fig. 1: SITE PLAN AND ROUGH LAYOUT

Residence

Entry

Garage

Gate

Garden

Boundaryfence

NoiseScreen

PrivacyScreen

Boundary fence

Deck

Wind

Setting sun

Viewscreen


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plantings. In plotting out the suns

path, visit the site several timesduring the day to note how shadowsfall. And dont forget that the sunfollows a different path in thesummer than it does during theother seasons. Use circles foractivity areas, arrows for traffic

paths, wavy lines for winds, ayellow dotted line for sun path,squiggly arrows for noise direction,different color arrows for good andpoor views...or whatever othersymbols you find most practical.

Now walk the property with a50- or 100-foot tape and someoneto hold the other end. Precision

counts. Take actual field measure-ments and note them on your sketch.

Once youre done, transfer your

field measurements to 1/4-inchscale graph paper. Use light pencillines initially to plan your fenceline and only darken them wheneverything is worked out to yoursatisfaction. Also, its a good idea

to jot down the dimension next toeach line. Later on, it will be easierto read than counting squares.

Make a rough layoutOnce you have everything indi-

cated, its time to start looking atfence lines. Since youre just play-ing with ideas at this point, dontoverwork any one layout scheme.Use tissue overlays to make variousrough fencing schemes (Fig. 1).

A good rule of thumb is to keepspaces as large as possible. Most

people enjoy the expansiveness ofthe great outdoors, so think twicebefore you plot a fence line thatboxes people in.

If you have gates, dont forget toallow enough room for openings.Three foot openings are generallyenough to accommodate one personor a large piece of equipment. Fourfeet will accommodate two people,while 6 feet is generally sufficientfor a group. For vehicles, you want

to allow a minimum of 10 feet.Once youre satisfied that you

have what you want, trace yourrough layout and site plan onanother tissue overlay. Indicatewhere the openings will be, and iftheres a gate, the direction in whichit will swing. Completing this stepwill help you calculate how much

lumber will be needed to buildyour fence.

If you see ways to improve your

fence line, dont be reluctant tomake new sketches until you feelyouve gotten everything just right.

Legal considerationsIts a good practice to check out

the legal considerations associatedwith building a fence, because localcodes and ordinances can varyconsiderably from one communityto the next. Most communities haveheight restrictions on boundary or

division fencing. There also may becertain laws and codes that actuallyrequire you to erect a fence, forinstance, around a swimming poolor open well.

If there are any questionsabout on whose land the fence isbeing built, arrange for a survey.

Remember, if any part of the fenceencroaches on your neighborsproperty, you may be asked tomove it.

Build yourfence

At this point youre ready to rollup your sleeves and get to work.Fence building is divided into three

stages. First, you physically plot the

fence by staking out the location ofthe posts, then you install the postsand finally, you add the rails andfenceboards.

Most people prefer to set all theposts in place and then attach therails and fencing, especially whenposts are being set in concrete.

Another approach, however, is toassemble the fence in sections byfilling in the rails and fenceboardswhenever two posts are in place.

This has certain advantages whenyoure working with prefabricatedfences, or when you first build eachsection on the ground and then lift

it into place.

Lumber grades and usesNo matter which approach you

follow, you need to start by decid-ing what grades of redwood youwish to work with. To calculate yourcosts and materials, it is easiest to

determine first what it will take

to build one fence bay (usually 8feet from post to post) and then tomultiply that by the number of baysrequired to complete your fence. Itis also best to add another 8% toyour order so you dont run out ofmaterials. Most fences use 4x4 posts

and 2x4 rails, with the boardsattached to the rails. You can choosebetween garden grades of redwoodwhich are rugged, hard-working andeconomical and architectural grades

which are preferred for fences orscreens that have a more decorativeor architectural function. (Fig. 2).

Garden gradesConstruction Heart contains

knots of a limited size and isrecommended for work on or nearthe ground and for posts, rails,kickboards and fenceboards. Aswith all heartwood grades, it is

decay and termite resistant.

11

Fig. 2: LUMBER GRADES AND CHARACTERISTICS

Heartwood Sapwood

Architectural Clear Clear All Heart Clear

Grades Limited Knots B Heart B Grade

Garden Knotty Construction Heart Construction Common

Grades Deck Heart Deck Common

Merchantable Heart Merchantable


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Construction Common is

similar to Construction Heart exceptthat it contains sapwood, which canbe visually dramatic on largefences. It is recommended for mostabove-ground applications such asfenceboards, trellises or gates.

Deck Heart and Deck Common

are similar in appearance to Con-struction Heart and ConstructionCommon but are graded specificallyfor strength. Deck Heart and DeckCommon are available in 2x4 and2x6 dimensions. In addition to useas fenceboards, these grades areexcellent for deck rails and caps.

Merchantable Heart allowslarger knots and knotholes and is

good for fenceboards, posts andrails in low fence projects.

Merchantable allows largerknots and knotholes and can becut economically for rough orrustic fenceboards.

Architectural gradesClear All Heart has no knots

on the best face and permits smalltight knots on the reverse face ofoccasional pieces. Because it resistsdecay and termites, you can use iton or near the ground.

Clear, essentially knot-free, is use-

ful for finearchitectural fencepaneldesigns away from ground contact.

B Heart allows limited knotsand is 100% heartwood.

B Grade has limited knots,contains sapwood and is used forabove-ground applications.

Whether you choose garden orarchitectural grades, youll findthat a fence constructed of redwoodwill resist shrinking, warpingand checking and not only age

beautifully but often look betterten, fifteen and even twenty yearsafter construction.

Posts and rails

The first step in building yourfence is to locate the exact course itwill take and mark the line withstakes and string. This is the mostexacting part of the project, becauseit establishes the foundation and

framework for your fence.

To plot a straight line for yourfence, mark the location for eachend or corner post with a batterboard-two solidly driven stakes

18 inches apart and connected by a1x3. Use the center of the batterboard as your point of alignmentand drive a nail or cut a notch. Tie apiece of masons twine or string tothe nail of one batter board, draw ittaut, and tie it to the nail on theother. If the fence line is particularly

long, youll want to support thetwine with stakes whenever thetwine begins to sag.

Posts are generally spaced 6 to 8feet apart, depending on the style offence. Measure and mark the centerlocations of all the posts with chalkor a pen. Corner posts will belocated directly under the crossing

stringlines at the batter boards. Takethe string of your plumb line, lineit up directly with the first chalkmark. Mark where the point of theplumb bob falls, using a spot ofspray paint or a stake stuck into the

ground. Paper nailed into the groundcan also serve as a marker. Once the

center marks for all the posts areindicated, you can untie the string.

If your fence includes 90 rightangles, they can be accurately deter-mined by using the 6-8-10 trianglemeasuring technique shownin Fig. 3.Any multiple of 3-4-5 will work,although larger numbers are easier

to measure.

Establish the first fence line asexplained above. Then establishthe second fence line roughly

perpendicular to the first, usinganother batter board. Measuringfrom the stake that will form thecorner, place a chalk mark 6 feetaway along the twine that forms thefirst fence line.

Next, put a mark 8 feet awayfrom the corner stake on the twine

forming the second fence line.Finally, measure the distance

between the two chalk marks andadjust the second fence line on the

batter board until the diagonalmeasurement between the twomarks equals 10 feet. This givesyou an accurate 90 angle.

Set postsNow comes the hardest part of

building a fence: digging the holesand setting the posts. For the first

Clamshelltype digger

12

90

18"

6'-8'

10

86

Batter board

Stringlayout marksfence line

String layoutmarks secondfence line

Post locations 6-8-10 test forright angle

Corner postlocation

Fig. 3: STRING LAYOUT AND TEST FOR RIGHT ANGLES

FIG. 4: POSTHOLE DIGGER


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step, a post-hole digger is often allyou need, but if there are many holes

to dig, you may want to considerone-man or two-man power augers.

Augur-type diggers are good forrock-free earth, but if youre likely toencounter large stones, a clamshelltype is better (Fig. 4). A diggingbar is also useful for prying rocksand other hard-to-move debris fromthe hole.

In most cases, your posts will be4x4s or 6x6s, depending on fencestyle. Posts can be set directly intothe concrete or attached with metalpost anchors. Posthole diameter

should be at least 3 times the widthof the post. Post depth should be1/3 the above-groundheight plus an

additional 6 inches for the rock orgravel bed (Fig. 5). If you experi-ence frost where you live, dig post-holes down to a foot below the nor-mal frost line to minimize damagefrom ground shift due to alternatefreezing and thawing of soil.

Once the holes are dug and allloose dirt is removed, make a drainbed at the bottom of each hole byshoveling in about 6 inches ofgravel. Working carefully, set theposts, making sure that each one isplumb and kept from moving withbraces staked to the ground (Fig. 6).

To make sure all the posts are inalignment, reattach the twine to thebatter boards and move the tiepoints so that the twine runs alongthe outside of the posts.

You will also want to adjust postsfor height at this time by anchoringa string on top of one post, drawingit taught and anchoring it to the top

of the next. Then, running a levelalong the string, move the secondpost until its in alignment.

When pouring concrete postfootings, make the concrete thickenoughso that you can solidly pack itinto the hole. Ready-mixed concreteis preferable for most applications;however, if you elect to mix your

own, use a mixture of 2 partscement, 3 parts sand and 5 partsgravel. Allow the concrete to set forat least 2 days before you beginattaching the rails.

Add railsOnce the posts are set, thehardest part is over, and its time tostart giving form to your fence byadding the rails. Start by markingand cutting the top rails so that theywill span from one post to the nextof each 6 or 8 foot bay, then nail

them in place. Once the top of theframe is tied together, go back and

mark and cut the bottom rails andnail them into place.

There are a number of different

ways to join the rails to the posts(Fig. 7). Top rails can be mitered,butted, or notched and bolted, whilebottom rails can be toe nailed, fas-tened with a block or metal brace,

or inset into the post by cutting adado or a notch.

Attach fenceboardsThis is easily the most satisfying

part of the project, because its herethat your fence takes on its final

form. The process is also more funbecause your most exacting tasksare done. All you need to do is towork out your basic procedure andrepeat it until the fence is complete.Time will fly by as you fall into arhythm of working.

Though there are many differentfence styles, they tend to fall into

two general categories: nail-on andinset. Neither installation is difficult;however, nail-on is a bit easier and

faster, while inset requires some-what more attention and care inconstruction and more framingand materials.

Nail-on fencing stylesNail-on fence styles (Fig. 8) are

easier to build because they requirefewer steps. Also, you dont need toprecut the boards to length unless,of course, you choose to do so. You

13

Mitered Butted Block Toe-nail

On-edge Notched Metal Dado

Top rails Bottom rails

18"

3'

Concrete

Compactedgravel

Metal postanchor

4 x 4 post

String

Post

Brace

Level

Fig. 7: RAIL ATTACHMENTS

Fig. 5: POSTHOLE OPTIONS Fig. 6: SET POSTS


15/17

can simply nail the boards at

random height and trim them later,using a chalkline to mark yourcutting line.

To make sure your fenceboardsare raised an even distance from theground, determine the bottom fenceline by tacking your string across

several bays at a time, making sureits level. Then, starting at the end,corner or gate post, use the string asyour baseline and begin nailing upyour fenceboards. If your fence isdesigned with spaces between theboards, use a block of wood as aspacer that you can move from oneboard to the next.

Every few feet its a good ideato use a level on the vertical edgeof the last board youve mounted

to make sure its plumb. If younotice that youre falling out ofplumb, you can make minoradjustments over the next fewboards until youve gotten rid ofthe discrepancy.

Trim all the boards at once afterattaching them to the rails. Use achalk line to mark your trim line.

Inset fencing stylesAn inset-style fence (Fig. 9)

takes more time and additionalframing materials, but it results in afence with clean, graceful lines thatwill please your neighbors; its asfinished looking on their side as it ison yours.

Start by determining the heightand width of several bays. If you

discover discrepancies between onebay and another, you may want tomeasure them all to make sure thatboards will be properly cut to fit.

Next, check each bay with aframing square. If anything is out ofsquare, youll need to make minoradjustments when installing theboards for that bay.

Precut the fence boards to properlength. Now measure and mark thenailing strip positions on each sideof the fence and install the outerstrips first to give the boards some-thing to rest against as you nail

them in place. Toenail the boards tothe frame, checking occasionally tomake sure that edges are in plumb.

Then toenail the other set of nailingstrips into position. If your fencedesign calls for horizontal ordiagonal fencing, attach verticalframing strips at the posts. Use thesame material as the nailers. Youcan use any of the various railattachment techniques when joining

the nailer and framing strips at thecorners (Fig. 7).

Nails and fastenersWhen working with redwood,

its important to use only aluminumalloy, stainless steel, or double hot-dippedgalvanized fasteners.

Inferior hardware, including com-mon iron or steel fasteners orthose galvanized by other than thehot-dipped process, is likely tocorrode and cause unsightly stainswhen it comes into contact withmoisture. As a guide, select 16-penny common nails for the frame,

8- or 10-penny box nails for the

fenceboards, and 6- or 8-penny fin-ish nails for the fine trim.

14

Verticalframing

Vertical framing(optional forvertical fencing)

Cap rail

Bottom rail

Nailing strips(first set)

Nailing strip

Nailing strip

Nailing strips(second set)

Bottomrail

Fenceboard

Fenceboard

Post

Toprail

Precut fence boards

Bottomrail

Post

StringBottom rail

Fenceboard

Post

Top rail

FIG. 8: NAIL-ON FENCING

Fig. 9: INSET FENCING


16/17

Build and hangthe gate

Theres something deeplysatisfying about a gate that openseasily, swings freely, and closes

securely with a reassuring click.

Building such a gate requires youto exercise care and craftsmanshipin each of the five steps of gateconstruction: setting the gate posts,building the frame, adding fencingboards, hanging the gate andinstalling the latch.

Gate posts should be set deeper

than your fence line postsabout1/3 their total lengthand anchoredin concrete. This is necessarybecause of the need to withstand

additional stresses. Posts also mustbe carefully plumbed so that theirinside faces are exactly parallel.

When measuring the opening,make sure to allow for clearances onthe hinge and latch sides of the gates

(Fig. 10). For gates with standard2x4 framing and 4x4 posts, leave a1/2- to 3/4-inch space between thelatch post and the gate frame. Onthe hinge side, it will depend on the

hardware you use. About 1/4 inch isusually sufficient.

Once the posts are set, beginassembling the frame (Fig. 11). Cutthe pieces to length and assemblethem on a flat surface, making

certain that the gate frame is insquare. Use a carpenters square tocheck the corners and then measurethe diagonals. When the diagonalsare equal, the sides of your gate areparallel and the frame forms a true

rectangle. Use wood screws and agood exterior wood glue instead of

nails for added strength.To measure the brace, lay the

frame down on top of the 2x4bracing member and mark your cutlines. The easiest cut is a single,angled cut so that the brace will runfrom hinge side bottom to latch sidetop. Cut the 2x4 just outside your

marks so the brace will have a tightfit, and attach the brace to the framewith nails or screws.

Now add the boards, startingfrom the side where the hinge willgo. If the last piece is not flush withthe frame edge, either space theboards slightly or plane a little from

each board until they fit. Then drillyour pilot holes and fasten thehinges to the gate. There are a largevariety of hinges and latches tochoose from. (Fig. 12 shows themost common.)

At this point youre ready to

hang the gate, but before you doanything, youll want to check the

fit by moving the gate in positionand trimming any areas that are tootight to provide ample clearance.Now prop the fitted gate into theopening using blocks to support it,or have a helper hold it in position,and mark the hinge and screw holepositions on the post. Once theholes are drilled, replace the gate,

and attach the hinges to the post.Finally, mount the latch assembly

on the gate and post, using screws alittle longer than usual to help thelatch withstand the punishment itwill take through years of use.

Finally, its time to congratulateyourself on a job well done.

15

Minimum depth ofgate post hole shouldequal 1/3 the overallpost length

Latch sidebears load

2 x 4 braces from hingebottom to latch top

2 x 4 frame

1/4" -3/4" space

4 x 4 postsand fence

2 x 4brace

Latchside

Hingeside2 x 4

gateframe

Test for squarecorners

Oppostie sides are parallel when diagonalsare of equal length.

Fig. 12: HINGES AND LATCHES

Fig. 13: HANG THE GATE

Fig. 10: GATE ELEVATION

Fig. 11: GATE FRAME & BRACE

OrnamentalT-Hinge

StrappedH-Hinge

TopLatch

RingLatch


17/17

Finishes

No other wood takes and holds finishes better than redwood. California redwoods performance andfinish-holding ability make it one of natures most maintenance-free building materials.

Natural appearance finishes

Clear Water Repellents with Mildewcide:Clear finishes that modify weatheringcharacteristics and let color and grainshow through.

Apply with brush or roller. Use one ortwo coats according to the manufacturersdirections. For best results, coat sawn ends,backs and edges before nailing in place.

Reapplication may be required after oldfinish has lost its effectiveness. In humidor harsher climates, reapplication may berequired every 12-18 months. Beforeapplying, wood may be restored to itsnatural color with trisodium phosphate andoxalic acid treatment.

Bleaching or Weathering Stains: Low

maintenance, natural appearance with agray-toned finish.

Apply with brush or roller. Use one or two

coats according to manufacturers direc-tions. Bleaching is aided by sunlight andmoisture, so it may speed the process toperiodically dampen surfaces with a finespray from a garden hose.

Bleaching oils and stains provide nearly

maintenance-free performance. Reapplyfinish only if wood begins to darken orbleaching is uneven. One refinish coatshould be enough.

Pigmented Stains

Semitransparent Stains: Penetratingfinishes available in a variety of semitrans-parent colors including several redwood

hues. Oil-based stains are recommended.

Apply with brush for best results, next bestis a roller. Avoid drips and lap marks. Twocoats usually required for new wood

follow manufacturers directions.

Refinishing may be necessary every 3 to 5years. Color in pigmented stains may wearaway gradually after weathering. Light

brushing with a bristle brush will helpremove old finish in some spots. Onerefinish coat is usually enough.

Description Application Maintenance

Solid Body Stains: Film forming finishesavailable in a wide variety of colors. Oil-based stains are recommended.

For best results use a brush. The next bestapplicator is a roller. Avoid drips and lapmarks. Two coats usually required for newwoodfollow manufacturers directions.

Refinishing may be necessary every 3 to 5years. Color in pigmented stains may wearaway gradually after weathering. Lightbrushing with a bristle brush will helpremove old finish in some spots. Onerefinish coat is usually enough.

Paints

Paints: Durable, attractive finishes fortraditional exteriors. Quality paints aregenerally worth the extra cost.

Apply with brush for best results, roller isnext best applicator. One prime coat and twotop coats are recommended for new wood.Back-priming is highly recommended. Useoil- or alkyd-based stain-blocking primer.Acrylic latex top coat is recommended.

Refinishing may be necessary every 7 to10 years. Paint films that are too thicktend to peel and crack. Sand or scrub withstiff bristle brush. Paint and varnishremovers may also be used. If sanding,countersink galvanized nail heads toprotect their coating.

Finishes not recommended: varnishes and clear film finishes, oil treatments, shake and shingle type paints.

fences for all reasons

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