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Make sure you have all the ingredients andequipment listed above BEFORE you start

and weigh them out into suitablecontainers ready to use.

Always wear safety goggles/glasses anduse protective gloves when soap-making to

avoid injury from spills and splashes.

First choose your mould. Traditionally,soaps are made in wooden moulds linedwith waxed or siliconised 'greaseproof'

paper, but a carboard box lined in a similarway is fine or you can choose to use asilicone cake-baking mould, as they are

usually lye and heat-resistant. Also, manyforms of plastic kitchenware will be suitable

and may also not need lining, such as

'tupperware' type containers.

If choosing a traditional lined woodenmould, make sure the lining paper is notcut or holed in any way below the top ofthe mould. It must be folded into corners

etc. to ensure there are no leaks.

Measure out 12 oz (340g) of cold cleanwater into a u . Wei h accuratel 125

Meanwhile, measure out exactly 10oz
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of sodium hydroxide beads (or pearls) into

a suitable container. Carefully add thesodium hydroxide to the water, stirring all

the time with a spoon or spatular. Becareful not to breathe the vapour that is

initially given off, so hold your breath andstir until all the sodium hydroxide has

dissolved and there are no lumps stuck tothe bottom of the jug.

The solution (now known as Lye) will heatup to nearly 200oF and will need to be left

to cool. Place one of the thermometers intothe solution and leave to one-side. If you

want to speed the cooling, place the jug ina large bowl of cold water, being careful

not to 'float' it.

palm oil into one of the saucepans (the

smaller if there is one) and gently melt it onthe stove. Don't overheat it, just melt it.

When there are tiny pieces of solid oil stillleft to melt, turn off the heat and leave untilcompletely liquid. If using a Lake or similarpigment to colour your soap, add a little to

the warm oils now (see guide below).

Whilst the solid oils are melting, measureout 1lb (454g) of olive oil (pomace grade isbest) into the other saucepan (this will bethe soap-making pan). If adding optionalpreservative, add it to the olive oil now.

Once melted, pour the combined coconutand palm oils into the olive oil and mix

them all together.

Place the other thermometer in the pan ofoils. You should end up with a

thermometer in each of the lye and oils asshown above.

Important... What you now need to do iskeep watch on the temperatures of both

the oils and the sodium hydroxide solution(Lye). If you haven't two thermometers

you'll need to move one betweencontainers ensuring it is cleaned betweeneach. Depending how fast you are working


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it may well be beneficial to make use of thehint above about placing the jug of lye in alarge bowl of cold water. This is because itstarts off hotter than the oils and has morecooling to do. Once both oils and lye are at

near similar temperatures they can becombined. Don't let everything get too cool.As a guide a minimum of around 80oF and

a maximum of around 130oF are ideallimits of temperature. As long as oils and

lye are both at similar temperaturesbetween these limits your soap should turnout just fine.

When at the correct temperatures, slowlyand carefully pour the lye into the oils, and

start stirring (preferably with a hand(balloon) whisk to ensure the mixture allstarts to chemically react and combine..

You should stir throughout the mixturefairly briskly. You will notice the solution

start to turn more opaque and as theminutes pass it will start to thicken. The

stage in the process you have to wait for isknown as the 'Trace'. This is when you can

drizzle the mixture from the whisk (orspoon/spatular) onto the surface of the

solution and it leaves a visible trace beforesinking back into the rest.

If adding colour with ultramarines, oxides orfood-safe water soluble powders etc., make

them up in a little water and add them now(just before or at the trace).

If adding essential oil/s, add them at 'thetrace' after any colour and stir in well. Once everything is added and the mixture

traces simply pour it into your lined mould.


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Cover the mould with something like acardboard sheet to prevent anything

touching the surface of the soap whilst it'ssetting.

Insulate with old towels or a blanket andleave at room temperature until the soap

has solidified. With a small batch like thisexample, this should be no more than 24hours. Larger batches can take longer. Once set and cool, remove the soap from

the mould and remove any lining paperfrom the soap. At this stage it will be a soft

solid and can be easily cut into bars orsmaller blocks if desired. If it appears toosoft to handle, leave it for 2-3 days and try

again.

Leave your soap 'curing' at roomtemperature for typically at least 3-4

weeks, preferably on a sheet of uncolouredabsorbant paper allowing air to circulate

around each bar or block. Curing will allowthe soap to loose excess moisture and

become harder.

Important... Do not store your soap in acold place. Soap will 'sweat' if cured orkept in a cold or cool place and then

moved to a warmer one. Avoid 'sweating' bykeeping your soap at a constant room

temperature.

Tip... If packaging your soap, avoidabsorbant paper or card coming into

contact with your soap directly as any'sweating' of the soap once packed will

spoil the packaging. If you must use paperor card, wrap your soap first in somethinglike waxed or siliconised paper or plastic

film.


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Note... If using higher grades of olive oil itwill usually take longer to reach a trace.Pomace grade is ideal for soap making.

Tip... If adding fragrance use pure essentialoil/s (20ml in this recipe size). Avoid

fragrance oils until you're moreexperienced. See information below.

Tip... Suitable and simple-to-usecolourants.. . Ultramarines: Oxides:

Insoluble pigments which are used tocolour the oils: Food-safe dyes (sold aswater soluble powders)...e.g. Tartrazine

yellow: Sunset yellow (orange): Amaranthred: many types of ground spices i.e.

Turmeric: Paprika: Cinnamon.

Useful Information... If you're using this recipe as a base for a soap you're adding your own colours and fragrances to, take a note that in yourearly attempts at natural soap-making it is far easier to fragrance a soap using pure essential oils. Avoid most fragrance oils as they arealmost all alcohol based (something like dipropylene glycol) and virtually all forms of alcohol can cause 'siezing' in a soap mixture. This iswhen the mixture starts to set solid very rapidly, before you have a chance to pour it, ruining all your efforts. Also, bear in mind that many'pretty' additions to a soap such as dried flower heads etc. will very possibly turn brown and discolour the soap if added to the mixture whilst itis a liquid. This is because of the high water content and caustic nature at that stage. Additions that work well are dried pulses, spices anddried herbs. Some spices achieve good colour as well. Turmeric (yellow) and paprika (salmon-like) are two examples. Petals etc. (like driedlavender) can be successfully 'pressed' onto the surface of the soap after pouring, before covering and insulating, although keep your gloveson when doing this as the mixture is still caustic at that stage. Generally food-safe colours are not suitable for natural soap-making (there aresome exceptions). There are colours that work well and are simple to use (see tip above). Procedure as follows...

All ultramarines and oxides require mixing with a little water and can be added at any stage after all ingredients are in the soapmaking pantogether, up to the trace.

Some types of pigments (known as insoluble pigments) are NOT water soluble and give colour to soaps best in warm oils. Add the powder ordispersion to melted coconut/palm oil and whisk in very thoroughly to avoid any 'spotting'.

Ground Spices are basically in 2 varieties. Those that will add colour to the oils (Turmeric and Paprika) which can be added to the warm oilssimilar to Lakes and those that simply add colour by suspension (i.e. gound cinnamon) which are best added near the trace in a little olive oilas a runny paste.

With ALL colours/pigments, the depth of colour will vary with the amount added. Keep colours subtle to avoid bleeding of colour into the latherwhen using the soaps. Mix up enough in a little water (except insoluble pigments) and add a bit at a time until the depth of colour you want isapparent. Guide for this size recipe... All ultramarines/oxides max 1 tsp (5ml). Most food-safe water soluble powders max 1/4 tsp (1.25ml).Lakes max 1/4 tsp (1.25ml). These are a guide only.

If you want to enrich your soap with specific oils for their properties (maybe hempseed or wheatgerm etc.) use aprox 1 Tbsb (15ml) at trace.Honey, also aprox 1 Tbsb (15ml) at trace. Exfolients, i.e. oatmeal or similar, up to 1/4 cup (60ml). at or before trace. Take care to ensure yoursoap is thick enough to 'support' any exfolient additions before pouring or they may sink or float (depends what they are).


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