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Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014
V. Schöffl
One Move too Many
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Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing:
Climbing: Injury Risk
Study Type of climbing (geographical location) Injury rate (per 1000h) Injury severity
(Bowie, Hunt et al. 1988) Traditional climbing, bouldering; some rock walls 100m high
(Yosemite Valley, CA, USA)
37.5 a Majority of minor severity using
ISS score <13; 5% ISS
13-75
(Schussmann, Lutz et al.
1990)
Mountaineering and traditional climbing (Grand Tetons, WY,
USA)
0.56 for injuries; 013 for fatalities;
incidence 5.6 injuries/10000 h of
mountaineering
23% of the injuries were fatal
(NACA 7) b
(Schöffl and Winkelmann
1999)
Indoor climbing walls (Germany) 0.079 3 NACA 2;
1 NACA 3
(Wright, Royle et al. 2001) Overuse injuries in indoor climbing at World Championship NS NACA 1-2 b
(Schöffl and Küpper 2006) Indoor competition climbing, World championships 3.1 16 NACA 1;
1 NACA 2
1 NACA 3
No fatality
(Gerdes, Hafner et al. 2006) Rock climbing NS NS 20% no injury; 60% NACA I; 20%
>NACA I b
(Schöffl, Schöffl et al. 2009) Ice climbing (international) 4.07 for NACA I-III 2.87/1000h NACA I,
1.2/1000h NACA II & III
None > NACA III
(Nelson and McKenzie 2009) Rock climbing injuries, indoor and outdoor (NS) Measures of participation and frequency of
exposure to rock climbing are not
specified
Mostly NACA I-IIb, 11.3%
hospitalization
(Backe S 2009) Indoor and outdoor climbing activities 4.2 (overuse syndromes accounting for
93% of injuries)
NS
Neuhhof / Schöffl (2011) Acute Sport Climbing injuries (Europe) 0.2 Mostly minor severity
Schöffl et al. (WMED 2013) Indoor sport climbing
(515337 Indoor Climbing Wall Visits in 5 Years)
0.02 15 UIAA 2
13 UIAA 3
2 UIAA 4
No fatality
Schöffl, IFSC MedCom IFSC World Cup 2012 0.74 all UIAA 2
No fatality
Fatalities: Traditional and sport climbing German Alpine Club reported 7 deaths during 2006 and
2007 (no differentiation between disciplines eg. sport, trad,
ice).
Bowie et al.: 13 of 220 injured climbers died - a case
fatality rate of 6%.
Bowie`s Yosemite date are in accordance with the results of
Hubicka for European climbing areas.
Josephsen et al.: prospective study on bouldering reported
no fatalities at all .
Schöffl et al: Indoor climbing and World Cup 2012
competition climbing: no fatalites
Hartmann and Schöffl 2014 (in progress): 584 climbers one
year prospectively – no fatality, 66 injuries
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Mountaineering
Schussmann et al.: incidence of 0.13 fatalities per 1000 h
Weinbruch et al.: lifetime risk of a fatal accident for elite
mountaineers is 0.203, see also table.
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High Peaks: Weinbruch et al.2012
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Injuries and Fatalities in Ice Climbing
Schöffl et al. Sports Med 2010
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Drytooling DAV 2006-7: Rock and Ice Climbing 12.8% of all injuries, Hiking and climbing showed with 0.1 doctor attendances per 1000 h of sport performance the lowest injury risk ! Fatalities not further evaluated
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Ice Climbing Accidents US, Canada
USA 1951 – 2004 2005 Accidents reported 249 5 Canada 1951 – 2004 2005 Accidents reported 158 0 Injured 92 Fatilities 30
Accidents in North American Mountaineering (volume 9, number 1, issue 59, 2006)
(appr. 1/year)
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Drytooling Ice Climbing Accidents in Switzerland
In 6 years 48 persons
registred through mountain
rescue
2 deaths through falls
3 deaths through avalanches
1 death through ice fall
Mosimann, U. (2006) Notfälle beim Eisklettern. Bergundsteigen. (4): 70-3.
(appr. 1/year)
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Conclusion – Ice Climbing
Ice climbing is a discipline with high objective risk potential, but with a low numbers of injuries and fatalities
Obviously the higher risk is compensated by the climbers by decreased readiness to assume risk and increased cautioness
The risk of fatal accidents can not yet be defined.
Canadian and Swiss data indicate one fatal accident per year
There is potential to further decrease the incidences
Further research necessary, actually UIAA MedCom: Ice Climbing competitions
Schwarz, Schöffl 2006
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Schöffl et al.2010, Sports Medicine
Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing:
One Move too Many
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Schöffl et al.2010, UIAA Score
Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: UIAA MedCom Score
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Schöffl et al.2010, UIAA Score
Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: Fatality risk
Future research
Prospective cohort analysis
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Dedicated to many friends lost: We will always remember you, RIP
and many more