fast fashion, loose ethics

Fast Fashion, Loose Ethics?Prepared by Aliesha Duffin

Student Number: 2011001324

RESEARCH OBJECTIVEThe aim of this research is to examine whether or not there is a link between a consumer’s awareness of a companies ethical standards and buyer behavior within the fast fashion industry in New Zealand.

Table of Contents

1 ABSTRACT 4

2 INTRODUCTION 5

3 RESEARCH OBJECTIVE 5 3.1 RESEARCH QUESTIONS 53.2 OVERVIEW OF SUBJECT 53.3 KEY TERMS 63.4 LIMITATIONS TO RESEARCH 6

4 LITERATURE REVIEW 6 4.1 FAST FASHION 74.2 ETHICS AND FAST FASHION 74.3 FAST FASHION ETHICAL STANDARDS 84.4 COMPANIES ETHICAL STANDARDS 84.5 CONSUMER AWARENESS 94.6 BUYER BEHAVIOR IN NEW ZEALAND 94.7 CONSUMER RESPONSIBILITY AND FAST FASHION 104.8 METHODOLOGIES 114.9 TIMELINE AND BUDGET 12

5 METHODOLOGY 13 5.1 INTRODUCTION 135.2 RESEARCH TOOLS 135.2.1 FOCUS GROUP 135.2.2 SEMI-STRUCTURED INTERVIEW 145.2.3 QUESTIONNAIRE 145.2.4 SECONDARY RESEARCH 155.3 RESEARCH METHODS 155.3.1 FOCUS GROUP 155.3.2 SEMI-STRUCTURED INTERVIEW 155.3.3 QUESTIONNAIRE 155.4 SAMPLING 155.4.1 FOCUS GROUP 155.4.2 SEMI-STRUCTURED INTERVIEW 165.4.3 QUESTIONNAIRE 165.5 ISSUES 16

6 FINDINGS 17 6.1 QUESTIONNAIRE 176.1.1 AGE GROUP 176.1.2 HOW OFTEN DO YOU PURCHASE NEW CLOTHES? 176.1.3 WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE FAST FASHION STORES TO PURCHASE FROM? 186.1.4 WHAT FACTORS ARE MOST IMPORTANT TO YOU WHEN SHOPPING FOR CLOTHES?186.1.5 ARE YOU AWARE OF WHERE THE CLOTHING YOU PURCHASED IS MANUFACTURED?

196.1.6 ARE YOU AWARE OF WHERE THE RAW MATERIAL OF THE CLOTHING IS SOURCED?

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Fast Fashion, Loose Ethics?

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6.1.7 ARE YOU AWARE OF UNETHICAL PRACTICES OCCURRING IN FAST FASHION? 196.1.8 IF YOU ARE AWARE, DOES THIS INFLUENCE YOUR PURCHASING DECISIONS? 206.2 SEMI-STRUCTURED INTERVIEW 216.3 FOCUS GROUP 22

8 ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION OF FINDINGS 24 8.1 CONSUMER AWARENESS 248.2 BUYER BEHAVIOUR 258.3 FACTORS THAT IMPACT PURCHASING DECISIONS 258.4 NEW ZEALAND CONSUMERS FAST FASHION PURCHASES 26

9 CONCLUSION 27

10 RECOMMENDATIONS 28 10.1 CONSUMERS RESPONSIBILITY 2810.2 MANUFACTURER’S RESPONSIBILITY 2810.3 NEW ZEALAND CONSUMERS AND FAST FASHION 28

11 REFERENCES: 30

12 APPENDICES 32 12.1 APPENDIX 1 3212.2 APPENDIX 2 3312.3 APPENDIX 3 38


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1 AbstractThe aim of this research was to examine whether or not there is a link between a consumer’s awareness of a companies ethical standards and buyer behavior within the fast fashion industry in New Zealand. The author chose an exploratory research methodology using a questionnaire, focus group and a semi-structured interview in addition to secondary data using online databases such as Proquest and Google Scholar.

The main findings that the author discovered was that New Zealand consumers were not always aware of unethical practices that were occurring in the manufacturing of fast fashion and also in the sourcing of raw products. Where the consumers were aware of unethical practices occurring this had little effect on their purchasing behavior and consumers continued to shop at fast fashion stores regardless of their manufacturing standards, this was a consistent result across all three methods the author chose to research. The main factor that was prominent though out the methodology was that when consumers were purchasing fast fashion was cost, and consumers wishing to get a bargain whilst shopping.

Future recommendations that the author would suggest in the area of fast fashion is as follows:

Consumers taking more responsibility in regards to purchases in fast fashion

Manufacturers need to also be taking responsibility for ethical practices occurring in fast fashion

Research surrounding the New Zealand consumer and their relationship with fast fashion


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2 IntroductionThe purpose of this research is to identify whether or not New Zealand consumers are aware of unethical practices that may be occurring within the supply chain in some of their favourite affordable fast fashion brands. The author hopes to identify whether or not consumers purchasing decisions are affected by a companies unethical (or ethical) practices, and to what degree it affects their buyer behavior.

3 Research ObjectiveThe aim of this research is to examine whether or not there is a link between a consumer’s awareness of a companies ethical standards and buyer behavior within the fast fashion industry in New Zealand.

3.1 Research Questions1. Are New Zealand consumers purchases in fast fashion influenced by a

companies ethical decisions?2. Are New Zealand consumers aware of the unethical practices

occurring in the manufacturing of products or sourcing of materials?3. Does a consumer’s awareness of unethical practices affect their buying

behavior?4. What other factors are considered in a consumer purchasing

decisions?

3.2 Overview of SubjectIn todays society it’s become apparent that more and more consumers are looking at making ethical choices when it comes to purchases. They are looking at the power of their dollar and wanting to make a difference with their purchases. (Birch, 2009, Para. 1)This is what research that has been done in the developed nations has told us, however companies still have unethical practices occurring, especially when it comes to the manufacturing and sourcing of products. Major fashion retailers such as The Just Group and Glasson’s had questionable ethical standards in the manufacturing stage of production according the Baptist World Aid report. (Baptist World Aid Report, 2015, P.1) When looking at why consumers will continue to shop at places that have unethical practices, it is important to know if they are aware of what is happening and if they have easy access to information. Many firms do not have transparency when it comes to their supply chain, and some companies did not have any idea of where they were sourcing their cotton. (Baptist World Aid Report, 2015, P.12) This leads to businesses being unaware of whether or not they are engaging in ethical practices, this is one of the biggest problems when it comes to the fast fashion industries. The fast fashion industry is injecting much needed money into under developing countries therefore its important that businesses ensure they are doing it in an ethical fashion. However if consumers purchase decisions are not influenced by unethical practices then it’s unlikely that the industry will change. The author has included a broad overview for the Baptist World Aid Fashion Report, as it was the catalyst that initiated their research topic.


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The Baptist World Aid Fashion report was released in April 2015 and it identified several companies that operate within New Zealand with a high level of unethical practices when it came to manufacturing and the sourcing of raw materials. The report looked at many companies and brands such as Cotton On, Kmart, the Just Group and Glasson’s to name a few. Some major issues that the report looks at include workers wages, since the previous report came out industry wages in Bangladesh have risen 75% although it still has the lowest wages in the world, living off of US$68 a month. 91% of companies could not state where the cotton was sourced. Uzbekistan was one of the most notorious countries for using child labour. Many leading fashion retail brands such as Levi’s Straus, Kathmandu and Jeanswest have boycotted buying cotton from this country. This has resulted in the country no longer systematically using child labour, however there are concerns that it is still being used and forced adult labour is on the rise. This is just one example of forced child labour, its also dominant in most phases of the supply chain. Other countries include Ethiopia, India, Argentina and Turkey to name a few. (Baptist World Aid, 2015, P.13)

3.3 Key Terms

Fast FashionFast fashion is low cost clothing companies that emulate current fashion trends that are seen on runways. Trends are changing so quickly and stores are rotating stock out so quickly that it has become known as fast fashion. (Joy, Sherry, Venkatesh, Wang & Chan, 2012, P.274)

Ethical StandardsWhilst there is a not a standardized definition for the term ethical standards the business directory states that it’s a set of principles that when followed, promote values such as trust, kindness, good behavior and fairness. (Business Dictionary, 2015, Para. 1)

3.4 Limitations to ResearchLimitations to the proposed research that the author may find could be due to the nature of fast fashion being a relatively new phenomenon the lack of academic studies done around the topic. Further more it will be limited due to being in relation to the New Zealand context and additionally the selected population for the chosen methodologies is the student body.

4 Literature ReviewFast Fashion is a huge industry that is changing the fashion game, allowing consumers to purchase runway looks at a fraction of the price. Whilst there is a lot of literature surrounding the topic, this review will focus on 6 key themes fast fashion, ethics and fast fashion, companies’ ethical standards, fast fashion ethical standards, consumer awareness and buyer behavior in New Zealand. Although these themes are present in the literature in a variety of contexts, this paper will relate them to consumer’s awareness of ethical


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standards within the fast fashion industry and also buyer behavior within the New Zealand fast fashion industry.

4.1 Fast FashionWithin the New Zealand market Fast fashion is growing with homegrown brands such as Glasson’s going stronger than ever and international fashion houses looking at entering the New Zealand market. A news article released last year on retailnews.com stated that fast fashion mega houses H&M, Zara, Top Shop and Uniqlo are looking at moving into the New Zealand market after already having great success in Australia. (Retail News, 2014, Para. 4). However a study done by Joy et al (2012, P.282) examined the relationship between fast fashion and sustainability and they found that in regards to the consumers they spoke to that although they were purchasing in fast fashion stores such as Zara and H&M, they also considered themselves to be concerned about the environment, the consumers that they looked at were from Hong Kong and Canada. This literature clearly shows that there is a need within the New Zealand market for more fast fashion houses, especially for consumers who can currently only purchase from these international fast fashion houses either online, or whilst overseas. Also fast fashion mega houses can take comfort from overseas trends of environmentally concerned consumers choosing fast fashion over their environmental apprehensions.

4.2 Ethics and Fast FashionEthics and fast fashion go hand in hand, with many consumers questioning where their clothing is coming from, and the practices that are happening in the manufacturing stage. A statement that was given in an interview to 3News in 2014 from World designer Francis Hooper stated, "Basically fast fashion is instant gratification. It's when you don't think about what you're consuming," "Nothing's wrong with fast fashion but what I see of course is the consumer isn't aware of the supply chain and what is involved in delivering fast fashion to you." (Penfold, 2014) The news article also examined the fact that we are asking where our eggs are coming from, where our pork is coming from and that NZ consumers are concerned if the animals are not being humanely treated. Now NZ consumers are going to start asking where their clothing comes from and are humans being humanely treated in the process of getting cheap clothing.

With consumers changing the way that they look at purchasing there is sufficient research around the concept of an ethical consumer. Ethical consumer is a term that is used to refer to describe consumers who are concerned with factors such as environmental issues, animal issues and ethical issues. Doane (2011) stated that the “New Economics Foundations suggested that despite the rapid growth of ethical consumerism to date, this is only the beginning of a market which has immense future potential.” (As cited in Shaw, Grehan, Shiu, Hassan, & Thompson, 2005, Para. 1) This is an important term to consider when it comes to fast fashion and purchasing decisions.


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4.3Fast Fashion Ethical StandardsWith fast fashion manufacturing predominantly being done in developing nations, it is important to look at the standard practices occurring in this offshore production, which are generally practices that would not be able to happen within the New Zealand Market. In 2011 manufacturing in China (which accounts for almost half of all manufacturing in developing nations) grew 14.5%. (UNIDO, 2011, Para. 2,4) this increase of manufacturing although great for developing nations economies, provides more room for unethical practices to occur. Some of the unethical practices that have been called into question include long hours in demanding working conditions, wages below the standard living wage and forced overtime. (Reinhard, Schmidt, Rutzel and Zentgraf, 2013, Para. 1) Taking a closer look at these unethical practices Reinhard et al (2013) revealed that in China workers were often working 7 days a week, 12-13 hour days sewing until their arms were sore. In Thailand garment workers were working obligatory overtime and having to face verbal abuse, penalties and even dismissal if they are unable to work the extra hours. Workers health and safety was also a major concern with employees risking loss of wages or their job if they need to seek medical treatment. Moreover women were risking their reproductive health with exposure to chemicals, exhaustion and overworking. (Reinhard et al, 2013, Para. 3)

Sexual harassment is a common issue that arises in these garment factories due to the nature of the work with women being the main employees. Research showed that many employers did not understand what constituted sexual harassment. In garment factories in Guangzhou, China over 70% of workers had been faced with sexual harassment this is a staggering statistic. (Brones, 2015, Para. 7) Being aware of the standards in which the majority of fast fashion clothing is an important factor to consider when consumers are making purchases, however due to the lack of transparency within many retailers supply chains (Baptist World Aid, 2015, P. 20) the reality is not in the consumers face and therefore many consumers may be unaware unless they have taken the time to research the subject themselves.

4.4 Companies Ethical StandardsWhen looking at fast fashion brands within New Zealand, the literature shows that there is a continuous lack of transparency within releasing details of supply chains and sourcing of raw materials. A report released by Wilson, (2013) investigating imported clothing looked at some of the biggest brands in the New Zealand market. Some of the biggest companies on the report including Farmers, Glassons, Ezibuy and The Just Group does not publish its suppliers details. Furthermore these companies have stated that they have not in fact visited their manufacturing factories and are relying on third party information. This highlights certain major players in the fast fashion game lack of concern of their off shore workers and what happens in their manufacturing stage of the supply chain.

Based on a review of the websites information whilst researching companies ethical sourcing practices, it was apparent that certain companies such as


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Glasson’s (Glasson’s, 2015) failed to mention their ethical standards at all whereas certain companies like The Just Group had a ambiguous ethical sourcing code available that lacked in transparency and authenticity. This includes statements such as “The Group complies with all laws in the countries in which product is sourced” (The Just Group, 2015) whilst this is a fine statement to make it does not suggest that The Just Group goes above and beyond to ensure ethical standards are met and not just the bare minimum in the developing nations they are manufacturing in.

4.5 Consumer AwarenessAlthough there is a variety of research around consumer awareness the author chose to focus on consumer awareness that was also related to more ethical a study completed in India relating to consumer awareness and perception towards green products amongst youths showed that although awareness level towards green products was quite high, that the conversion into purchase was low. (Kumar, Garg, & Makkar, 2012) Another study that was published by the International Journal of Consumer Studies stated that you could put fashion shoppers into three different categories ‘self consumers’ concerned with hedonistic needs, ‘social consumers’ concerned with social image and ‘sacrifice consumers’ who aim to reduce their impact on the world. These three different groups have different implications for marketers and they way that they are marketing sustainable fashion products, with each group being significantly different. (McNeill and Moore, 2015) This research identifies that fast fashion firms need to be aware of the different types of consumers and that they may lose consumers if they are engaging in unethical practices.

4.6 Buyer Behavior in New ZealandLiterature surrounding buyer behavior within New Zealand and fast fashion purchases was hard to find, however on a more global scale there is more literature. A study that was conducted in 2013 looked into factors that resulted in the avoidance of fast fashion purchases within Korea. They found that previous literature stated that traditionally ethical and environmental factors were the last items to be considered in regards to a purchase in fast fashion and that purchases were made without considering ethical concerns. (Joergens, 2006 as cited by Niinimäki, 2010) However the author of this study found that young consumers purchasing fast fashion were increasingly concerned with ethical factors in regards to production. The author noted that since many fast fashion houses were producing large amounts of low quality clothing this resulted in excess consumption, also they were more likely to be disposed of within a year or 2, thus also creating environmental concerns along with ethical ones. (Kim, Ho, & Yoon, 2013) Although the Korean market differs from the New Zealand market, similar trends could occur within the New Zealand market resulting in consumers purchasing products despite any ethical concerns they may have.

There is conflicting opinions in regards to a consumers ethical beliefs and their purchasing decisions, another study conducted in 2014 examining the relationship between personal values and ethical fashion consumption, the results showed that when a consumer has an openness to experience


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personal values and also if they are subject to self enhancement then they are more likely to participate in ethical purchasing behavior in fast fashion. (Manchiraju, & Sadachar, 2014). This study reflects a growing concern from consumers, and is important to note when it comes to buying behavior of fast fashion.

Although literature relating to buyer behavior within the New Zealand market a report examining the consumer lifestyle of New Zealanders that was released in 2014 stated that the financial situation is improving and that this has been reflected in their spending. It also showed that purchase decisions were increasingly being effected by factors such as sustainability and personal health. (Euromonitor International, 2014, P.1) From this report it can be gathered that although New Zealand consumers are spending more, their concern with sustainable products could affect the way that they perceive fast fashion.

4.7 Consumer Responsibility and Fast FashionWhilst it is obvious that change within the fast fashion industry needs to come from manufacturing and retailers it is also clear that consumers are an important factor when it comes to fast fashion. Elisa Niemtzow the director of consumer sectors at BSW released an article in 2013 in regards to the fact that over 1.1 million people had signed a petition pressuring retailers to provide safe working conditions in factories after the Rana Plaza collapse. This indicates a shift from consumers in regards to the way that they purchase and think about fast fashion. (Nimetzow, 2013)

The literature that is available regarding fast fashion, ethics and consumer decision-making is vast, and however there is a notable lack of research done in relation to the way that the New Zealand consumer is purchasing in relation to fast fashion. The themes that the author has examined within the literature review clearly link back to the authors research objectives, they have also helped to identify a gap within the literature in regards to the New Zealand consumers attitudes and purchasing behavior of fast fashion. The literature shows that the factors that influence buyer behavior include cost, availability, environmental concerns and ethical production. However the study in Hong Kong showed that although students stated that they were environmentally concerned moreover when it came down to purchases this concerns were waylaid over the other factors that were previously mentioned.

4.8 MethodologiesMethodologies in relation to the fast fashion industry have been largely qualitative due to the nature of the research. Joy et al. (2013, P. 277) used interviews in order gain a rich depth of data to analyse. This provided the researchers with the ability to gain insight into the personalized opinions of fast fashion consumers within the Hong Kong and Canadian market. After examining the methodologies shown the literature the author has decided that doing qualitative research in the form of focus groups and interviews will gather the depth of information required for the authors research.


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4.9 Timeline and Budget

3/09 10/09 17/09 24/09 1/10 8/10 15/10 22/10 28/10 2/11 4-6/11Write questions for focus groups and interviews

x x

Conduct methodologies

x x

Analyse data xWrite draft of report

x x

Write final report and hand in

x x

Prepare Poster and hand in

x x

Presentation x


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5 Methodology5.1 IntroductionFast fashion methodologies for research are a relatively new phenomenon within the fast fashion industry, in particular only a few studies have been conducted within New Zealand therefore the methods that the researcher has chosen are ones that have been previously used in similar research that has been conducted in regards to the fast fashion industry. Whilst looking at the literature it was evident that a lot of the research done was mainly qualitative with a small amount of quantitative methods to back up the data. The nature of the research is exploratory due to time constraints, and because the research topic has not yet been explored in the New Zealand market. The author will need to rely not only on conducting some qualitative methods but also on secondary research and reviewing articles that have already examined the topic in different parts of the world.

5.2 Research ToolsThe research tools that the author has chosen to use include a semi-structured interview, a questionnaire and a focus group. These three methods are relevant to the type of research that is to be conducted and also within the given timeframe.

5.2.1 Focus GroupFocus groups are an effective way to gather a depth of data in a short amount of time and to also generate debate amongst the participants providing the researcher with a more diverse set of opinions than may be gathered in an interview. Focus groups are particularly useful to gather participant’s knowledge and to draw on their own experiences in order to examine the way that they think and to try to understand why they think that way. (Kitzinger, 1995, Para. 1)

There are many advantages to using a focus group whilst conducting research, they can be cost effective and they can provide quick results. They are also a fluid and a more holistic way to gather information as the moderator is able to interact with the participants and therefore able to have flexibility whilst conducting the discussion. They can also encourage participants who may feel that they have no opinion on the topic to have something to say whereas they may feel less likely to participate in a one on one interview. (Ball State University, 2012, Pg. 2)

Whilst the advantages are numerous it is also important to note the disadvantages that can come from using this method. Creating a time that suits everyone can be difficult, also having conversations going off topic during the discussion can occur. Whilst the group setting can help to gain more information from people who might feel uncomfortable discussing the topic in a one on one interview, strong personalities may also dominate the group and therefore the discussion may become one-sided. (Ball State University, 2012, Pg.2) It is important for the researcher to take into account


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all of these factors whilst structuring the focus group and preparing the questions. Previous research that has been conducted regarding fast fashion has used focus groups for the reasons stated above, a study titled Consumption practices of fast fashion products a consumer-based approach used focus groups in order to generate discussion and depth in relation to the issue. (Gabrielli, Baghi, & Codeluppi 2013)

5.2.2 Semi-Structured InterviewA semi-structured interview is a useful tool used in research to generate a rich depth of data and helps the researcher to have a more organic approach to the interview and have the questions change as the interview progresses. (Newton, 2010, Pg. 2) Previous research that has been conducted in the fast fashion industry field is Joy et al. (2013, P. 277) who used interviews in order gain a rich depth of data to analyse, this mirrors what the researcher is hoping to achieve with their interviews and this is why they have chosen to use this method.

The advantages of using a semi structured interview is the ability for the researcher to change the questions as the interview progresses and not follow the more rigid approach that the original interview follows. Another advantage of this method is that it allows the interviewee to express their opinions they can also provide the researcher with reliable and comparative data. (Cohen and Crabtree, 2006, Para. 3) Whilst the advantages include providing a depth of data and is a great holistic approach there is always the possibility of the participant being dishonest or generating answers they feel are more politically correct than what is their actual opinion. Also as this is a single person’s opinion it does not reflect the greater community and therefore the bias (if any) needs to be noted by the researcher. (Resources HWB, N.D)

5.2.3 QuestionnaireQuestionnaires are a great way to generate a lot of data in a short amount of time. Although the data collected does not have great depth they are a practical method to use, which are also generally cost effective. The results can be quantified quickly and easily through the use of programs such as excel. When the data has been collected and quantified it is then easy to compare to other research that has already been completed. (Libweb, 2004) With the use of tools such as Google Forms and Survey Monkey researchers are able to distribute a large amount of surveys to a wide audience and also customize the audience that they are aiming to reach.

Disadvantages of using a questionnaire are that there is no way to tell if the respondent is being honest, also they may answer questions incorrectly or skip them altogether. (Libweb, 2004) These disadvantages are important to consider due to the time constraints the researcher is under. The choice of using a survey has been made in conjunction with focus groups and interviews. The survey will serve the purpose of providing data to shape the focus group and interview questions.

5.2.4 Secondary Research


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The secondary research that will primarily be used in order to structure and shape the primary research conducted will be using online databases and journals such as Proquest and Google Scholar. This will allow the researcher to examine and compare literature that has already been done in this field.

5.3 Research MethodsThe three methods used; focus group, semi-structured interview and questionnaire are particularly relevant for the exploratory research that the author has chosen to conduct.

5.3.1 Focus GroupThe focus group that was conducted consisted of 4 participants and was guided by the moderator; it included three engagement questions, 3 exploration questions and an exit question. See Appendix 1 for a list of questions and notes taken during the discussion. Also the discussion was recorded using an IPhone.

5.3.2 Semi-Structured InterviewAn interview was conducted with a buyer from a medium sized retailer; the interview was semi-structured in nature in order to be flexible and to gain a quality depth of data. The interview was recorded using an IPhone and transcribed immediately after. (See Appendix 2.)

5.3.3 QuestionnaireA pilot test was done in the questionnaire, it highlighted 2 questions that need to be restructured in order to provide clarity. (See Appendix 3.) The questions used will be closed and the data collected will be compared to the data collected from the other two methods.

5.4 SamplingWhen choosing the population for the methods intended the researcher had to take into consideration the time constraints and also to whom the author had access too.

5.4.1 Focus GroupThe focus group will be conducted using fashion students; this particular sample was chosen in order to gain an educated perspective on fast fashion and ethics.

Due to unforeseen circumstances the author was unable to gain access to the fashion students and therefore the focus group will now consist of 2 business students, a merchandiser and a makeup artist, these participants have been chosen due to access and the time constraints that the author was facing due to unforeseen issues arising.

5.4.2 Semi-Structured InterviewThe participant for the semi-structured interview was selected based on the author’s prior relationship to them. The participant is a buyer for a medium sized retailer.


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5.4.3QuestionnaireIn the first research proposal that was presented the author originally intended to distribute the questionnaire to the entire SIT student population and to gather 100 respondents. However after discussion with the supervisor, the sample population changed to 50 female students. The reason for this change was due to the 2 other methods being used that a larger population was not needed. Due to the prior literature that has already been conducted it was deemed that the main consumer for fast fashion was females therefore only females were to be chosen for this study. The author had access to SIT students and therefore this was also taken into consideration when planning the appropriate methods to use for this research.

5.5 Issues The author originally intended to approach the fashion department at SIT and to setup a focus group using fashion students in order to gather their opinion. However due to lack of interest from the fashion students this option was not viable. Another issue that arose was that after the questionnaires had been collected it was clear that many respondents failed to fill out the survey correctly and chose 3 answers as opposed to the 2 that were asked of them.


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6 FindingsFor this research the author conducted a focus group that consisted of 4 participants, a semi-structured interview with a buyer of a medium sized retailer and a survey that had 8 closed questions on it and had 55 respondents.

6.1 Questionnaire The Questionnaire had 55 respondents, See Appendix 5 for final summary of Answers

6.1.1 Age group

Age Group

18-2425-3435-4445+

The majority of respondents were between the ages of 18-34 this is down to the sample population being students at SIT. The target demographic of fast fashion is also within this age range.

6.1.2 How often do you purchase new clothes?Respondents were asked to choose the answer that best applied to them

Purchasing Behaviour1-10 times a yearOnce a month1-5 times a month6-10 times a month11+ times a month

47% of respondents purchased fast fashion 1-10 times a year and 18% purchased once a month.


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6.1.3 What are some of your favourite fast fashion stores to purchase from?Respondents were asked to select all responses that applied

Favourite Fast Fashion Stores

GlassonsJust JeansJeanswestSupreDottieJay JaysCotton OnFactorieThe WarehouseKmart

Glasson’s and Cotton On were the 2 stand out stores for favourite fast fashion purchases, however it should be noted that due to Invercargill’s small size as a town that there is very limited options to choose from.

6.1.4 What factors are most important to you when shopping for clothes?

Respondents were asked to choose the 2 most important factors that applied*

Most Important Factors

StyleCostConvenienceWhere it is madeBrandCompanies Reputation

*16/55 respondents failed to answer this question as per the instructions and therefore were unusable for analysis


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Style and cost were the overwhelmingly 2 most important factors that respondents chose. With cost slightly edging out style with 4 more people choosing cost over style.

6.1.5 Are you aware of where the clothing you purchased is manufactured?

Yes No

60% of respondents identified that they were aware of where their clothing was manufactured.

6.1.6 Are you aware of where the raw material of the clothing is sourced?

Yes No

In comparison with the 60% of respondents who knew where their clothing was being manufactured only 12% of respondents had an idea of where the raw material used in the clothing was being sourced.

6.1.7 Are you aware of unethical practices occurring in fast fashion?

Yes No

When asked if respondents were aware of unethical practices occurring 57% said no, this is contrast to the amount of respondents who were aware of where the clothing was manufactured and is not consistent with the results that would be anticipated.


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6.1.8 If you are aware, does this influence your purchasing decisions?Please do not answer this question if you are unaware of unethical practices*

YesNoIt depends on the Product

*Although only respondents who had answered yes to the previous question were asked to respond to this question, 45 respondents actually answered.

Only 30 respondents had answered yes to question 7 however 45 respondents answered this question. However it appears that a consumers ethical purchasing decisions depends on the product and 24% of respondents felt that it did not matter at all and with only 20% saying that a companies unethical practices would affect their purchasing decisions.


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6.2 Semi-Structured InterviewThe semi-structured interview was conducted with a buyer for a medium sized retailer in order to gain an in depth look at what prompts buyers when they are purchasing and also what factors are considered before they make their decisions. The participant stated that when researching suppliers that a number of factors were considered such as the reputation of the supplier, (do they supply on time, quality of the product) the stores history with a supplier and also they find products whilst at convention fairs (which does a certain amount of pre vetting). When researching the companies they talk to other companies that supply them, conduct an online search and they keep an eye out for any red flags that may arise whilst researching them. When choosing a product to go into the store several factors are considered whether it was a product that had historically sold well, future trends and they may have identified a price gap within their products.

The participant was then asked if ethics was a considered factor when purchasing, they stated that it can be a factor and that they think ethics will play a significantly big factor in the future. They mentioned the Baptist World Aid report and the Rana Plaza Factory collapse in regards to ethics playing a bigger part and also certain major NZ retailers such as Glassons being slammed in the media due to unethical sourcing behaviors. Another contributing factor was the cost of freight and also their ability to negotiate terms of trade agreements with suppliers due to the retailer having an excellent payment history with suppliers. When asked if they ever got feedback from customers in regards to requesting fair trade or ethical products they said that it was very rare that this occurred however that this could be due to the store being in a smaller town and also the type of consumer that was shopping there. The participant theorized that New Zealand retailers who shop at international gift fairs are becoming more and more aware of where the products they are buying are coming from. Also that the New Zealand consumer appeared to have a growing awareness of unethical practices occurring however they did not seem to recognise the effect that their purchasing behavior had on it. The participant had this to say in regards to consumers buying behavior “But you cannot blindly go in and buy cheap as chips items and think that you don’t have part of the say in how that product is sourced and manufactured and I think while this focus is going to come into course over the next 2 years very closely on the ethics of NZ retail and NZ brands I equally believe that there needs to be a recognition on the consumers part that they drive that behavior.” (Interviewee, 2015) The buyer also pointed out that as a retailer that they would never knowingly purchase unethical products and that the store, and the buyer personally wanted no part in it. However the buyer also pointed out that a lot of suppliers themselves didn’t know the full extent of where the raw materials of their products were sourced and this in itself made it difficult to know how ethical and end product really was. Another point that the participant brought up was the fact that there was often a disconnect from consumers, they may not be able or willing to link “value” prices with unethical behavior and that New Zealand customers on a whole tend to be very value conscience and can look the other way when it comes to a bargain.


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The buyer used the following example “Customers don’t always care about ethics, if you look at awareness of pigs are farmed in NZ, very few people will either stop eating bacon or buy free range cause they’re driven by price. These customers know what happens to these animals (chicken as well) and customers will still purchase it. There’s a whole lot of ethical stuff that’s already in existence that’s proven not to effect customer demand, which frankly is appalling. So I think it will be a very challenging time for the industry and it will get vilified through the media, whether that actually effects change from the customer, which will be the ones that drive the change at the end of the day. I don’t know, because it hasn’t happened in the food industry, which has had an immense amount of negative press.” to clarify why they felt that change within the fast fashion industry may be slow or nonexistent.

The buyer also stated that in order for change there needs to be change effected from all sides, suppliers, retailers, and the consumer. There needs to be enough pressure from all sides for companies to stand up and say that we are not going to stand for unethical practices. All human beings deserve the right to live above survival and it’s not right that our wealthy west is living off of the backs of a very poor east. Finally the buyer left with this food for thought “People want to look at good things and pretty things in the world. If we could take the following in the likes of what Kim Kardashian had, and the likes of what are important to her and put them on something that is actually important in the world, what a beautiful world we’d have. But we are uninterested in that.” (Interviewee, 2015)

6.3 Focus GroupThe focus group was conducted using a relaxed format with open questions in order to start to garner a discussion, the respondents were asked to identify their favourite fast fashion brands these were noted as Glassons, Topshop, Valley Girl and Dotti. The participants were then asked if they knew where the clothing they purchased was made, the answers were either no or everything is made in China. When asked if cost was a factor in their purchasing decisions it was a resounding yes, the reasons given for cost being such an important factor was due to that with fast fashion it is likely to go out of style relatively quickly, the low quality of the clothing, the fact that other people were likely to be wearing the exact same thing and finally that as they were not considered classic or time pieces that the respondents would be reluctant to spend a significant amount of money on them.

The participants were asked if they were aware of any unethical practices that occurred within the industry, child labour and slave labour were mentioned, they were then asked if this affected their buying behavior and how it made them feel when they made the purchases. Some respondents said that they felt bad about the purchases however this did not affect their buying behavior and that the cheap sales helped to stimulate their buying behavior. They also noted that in the circumstances where they were aware they chose to not think about it when making purchasing decisions.


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When asked if they thought that businesses or consumers should be more active in regards to ensuring that there are more ethical practices at the manufacturing end, all of the participants felt that businesses needed to be moderating the behavior as opposed to the consumer. Finally the participants were asked if there was anything else that they would like to add in regards to the topic one participant felt that businesses were already actively trying to make a change however that this was a slow process. Another opinion that was offered included that consumers and the public in general needed to be more educated in regards to where their clothing came from and finally that more money needs to be spent in the manufacturing stage in order to provide better working conditions.

7


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8 Analysis and Interpretation of FindingsThe analysis of the research that has been conducted resulted in four prominent themes through the three different research methods that were used these include consumer awareness, buyer behavior, factors that impact purchasing decisions and New Zealand consumers fast fashion purchases.

8.1 Consumer AwarenessLooking at consumer awareness 40% of survey respondents identified that they were aware of where their clothing was manufactured however only 12% had an awareness of where their clothing was sourced. From the total respondents 43% of participants said that they were aware of unethical practices occurring however 53% of participants who were aware identified that their purchasing decisions were then dependent of the product. When conducting the focus group the participants were asked if they had anything to add all four of the participants mentioned that there needs to be greater transparency within the supply chain of fast fashion and more information available easily to the public in order for them to make an informed decision easily.

The focus group identified that they were aware of unethical practices occurring such as child and slave labour that this did not have a significant impact on their buying behavior this correlates with the research conduced in India where Kumar, Garg, & Makkar, 2012) found that although the participants had an awareness of green products the conversion into purchasing was low. This was also in line with the interview that was conducted, where the participant felt that although consumers wanted to be ethical that in the end a bargain would win out over an ethical purchase. When the focus group asked if they were aware of where their clothing was manufactured there was a certain level of naiveté from the participants and the stock answer was China, they were unaware of other countries that help to manufacture fast fashion.

Existing literature by (Mcneill and Moore, 2015) identified that fast fashion firms need to be aware of the different types of consumers that there are and that a business may lose consumers if they are engaging in unethical practices. This literature appears to be in opposition to the primary research that was conducted, in both the focus group and the survey that was conducted ethics was not a major contributing factor even when consumers were aware of unethical practices occurring. The fact that cost was an overriding factor could be due to the sample population of students and also a lack of awareness around the subject. Only 43% of respondents said that they were aware of unethical practices occurring however this did not correlate with other answers that were given in the survey in relation to where raw materials were sourced and where the manufacturing occurred.

8.2 Buyer BehaviourA study that was conducted in Korea stated that due to the fast fashion houses producing large amounts of low quality clothing results in excess


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consumption and also creates environmental concerns along with ethical ones. (Kim, Ho, & Yoon, 2013) This literature although conducted in Korea can be analysed in conjunction with the New Zealand study as both studies consisted of students and young females across a general population. The data that was found when conducting the focus group where participants identified that as fast fashion goes in and out of style so quickly and is usually of low quality therefore consumers are unlikely to spend a high amount of money on them.

The interviewee had the opinion that consumers often have a disconnect in regards to their impact on the products that they were buying, they said “But you cannot blindly go in and buy cheap as chips items and think that you don’t have part of the say in how that product is sourced and manufactured and I think while this focus is going to come into course over the next 2 years very closely on the ethics of NZ retail and NZ brands I equally believe that there needs to be a recognition on the consumers part that they drive that behavior.” (Interviewee, 2015) This view is in line with existing literature of Penfold (2014) who stated "Nothing's wrong with fast fashion but what I see of course is the consumer isn't aware of the supply chain and what is involved in delivering fast fashion to you." The literature also examined the fact that we are asking where our eggs are coming from, where our pork is coming from and that NZ consumers are concerned if the animals are not being humanely treated. Now NZ consumers are going to start asking where their clothing comes from and are humans being humanely treated in the process of getting cheap clothing. This also mirrors the buyer’s views on Kiwi’s questioning where their products are coming from however the interviewee was of the opinion that due to the lack of change within the farming industry that this lack of change could also mirror the fast fashion industry. The interviewee stated “Customers don’t always care about ethics, if you look at awareness of pigs are farmed in NZ, very few people will either stop eating bacon or buy free range cause they’re driven by price. These customers know what happens to these animals (chicken as well) and customers will still purchase it. There’s a whole lot of ethical stuff that’s already in existence that’s proven not to effect customer demand, which frankly is appalling. So I think it will be a very challenging time for the industry and it will get vilified through the media, whether that actually effects change from the customer, which will be the ones that drive the change at the end of the day. I don’t know, because it hasn’t happened in the food industry, which has had an immense amount of negative press.”

8.3 Factors that Impact Purchasing decisionsWhen looking at factors that impacted purchasing decisions style and cost were identified as the 2 most important factors, this was also conclusive to the factors identified by the focus group. Cost was identified as a leading factor due to the nature of fast fashion, with a high turnover of product and styles that are out of fashion within a couple of weeks respondents were less likely to spend a high amount of cash on fast fashion in comparison to a classic or timeless piece. Previous research states that traditionally ethical and environmental factors were amongst the last to be considered in regards to


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fast fashion purchases, the author also found that young consumers were increasingly concerned with ethical factors in regards to production. (Joergens, 2006 as cited by Niinimaki, 2010) This research was conducted in 2010 however in the authors research this was not a prevalent theme and that cost was still the biggest factor for fast fashion purchases.

8.4 New Zealand Consumers Fast Fashion Purchases The primary research that was conducted using the survey and focus group found that their purchase decisions was not based on a businesses ethical standards or their awareness of unethical practices but rather on the factors cost and style. The participants of the focus group also felt that one person could not actually effect change and therefore they individually could do nothing. In the interview that was conducted, the buyer stated that the consumers rarely if ever asked for ethical products and that there was often a disconnect between a consumers awareness of ethical behaviours and then into the conversion of sales. The interview participant felt that New Zealand consumers were driven by price and due to the fact that the unethical nature of their fast fashion purchases was not directly in their faces that they did not have any responsibility.

The interviewee had a unique perspective on the New Zealand consumer as this was who they purchased for to go into their retail store they stated that “Another point that the participant brought up was the fact that there was often a disconnect from consumers, they may not be able or willing to link “value” prices with unethical behavior and that New Zealand customers on a whole tend to be very value conscience and can look the other way when it comes to a bargain.” (Interviewee, 2015) There is a gap in the literature in regards to New Zealand consumers and fast fashion however a article that was released last year on retailnews.com stated that fast fashion mega houses H&M, Zara, Top Shop and Uniqlo are looking at moving into the New Zealand market after already having great success in Australia. (Retail News, 2014, Para. 4). This identifies that there is a definite gap in the market when it comes to fast fashion and that it is something that the New Zealand consumer is looking for. This ties into the opinion that the interviewee had, which is that there is a disconnect between New Zealand wanting ethical products but also wanting discount fashion and choosing not to make the connection between the 2 areas.


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9 ConclusionThe purpose of this research was to examine the link between a consumers awareness of a companies ethical standards and buyer behavior within the fast fashion industry in relation to the New Zealand market. In order to explore this relationship the author adopted an exploratory methodology including primary research, which included a focus group, questionnaire and a semi-structured interview. Secondary research was also used which included using online databases such as Google Scholar and Proquest.

The results of the author’s research showed that where New Zealand consumers were aware of unethical practices that it had little effect on their buying behavior and that cost was an overriding factor when it came to purchasing decisions. This was prevalent in the focus group, interview, questionnaire however was contradictory to the existing literature. The findings were also not what the author was expecting to find and the author also found that their was a degree of naiveté in the focus group in regards to where manufacturing occurred.


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10 Recommendations The following recommendation by the author is based on the research that was conducted and gaps in the literature that the author identified after the fact. The recommendations include the theory that change needs to be effected from all sides include consumers and manufacturers.

10.1 Consumers Responsibility Whilst conducting research the author identified a course of action that could be taken in future research around the topic of ethics and fast fashion. This includes further investigation into the consumer’s responsibility within the industry, the interview participant identified that consumer’s need to be willing to take more responsibility in order to effect change including asking for more ethical products and that “In the end it comes down to every dollar you spend as a customer, every dollar the retailer spends, every dollar the supplier spends is a vote for the world that we want.” The focus group that was conducted also stated that consumers needed to take more responsibility when it comes to ethical consumption of fast fashion. Whilst this theme was prominent in the research that was conducted and there was a gap in the literature that is currently available (although Niemtzow, 2013) believed that consumers were taking a step in the right direction. Therefore this course of action would be recommended to take in future research conducted around fast fashion and ethics.

10.2 Manufacturer’s ResponsibilityA theme that was prominent in regards to the research but did not directly relate to the authors research was that manufacturer’s need to be taking more responsibility in regards to ethical standards that occur in manufacturing and also the sourcing of raw materials. This was reflected in the opinions of the focus group where individuals felt that manufacturers of fast fashion products should be taking more responsibility in regards to ethical behavior. In the interview that was conducted the interviewee stated that “There needs to be enough pressure from all sides for companies to stand up and say that we are not going to stand for unethical practices.” (Interviewee, 2015) The focus group also stated that they believed businesses should be taking a greater role when it came to providing safe working conditions and that they should be spending more money at the manufacturing end and either absorbing the costs or explaining to consumers why there may have been a price increase. This coincides with existing literature such as the Baptist World Aid Report (2015) which states that there is a lack of transparency when it comes to manufacturing.

10.3 New Zealand Consumers and Fast FashionWhen conducting the research the author identified a gap in the literature that would need to be addressed when conducting research in the future. This is in regards to New Zealanders and their buying behavior, attitudes and awareness in regards to fast fashion and ethics. Whilst the authors research is in relation to New Zealand consumers the sample population used was students and the population generalized as such however due to a students


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limited income this may have affected the outcome of results. Also due to the author’s time and access restraints research done on a wider scale may generate a greater depth of data. The literature that the author has found was in relation to general spending, (Euromonitor International, 2014) stated that New Zealand consumers were increasingly being affected by factors such as sustainability and personal health.

The following is a list of recommendations in regards to future research surrounding fast fashion:

Consumers taking more responsibility in regards to purchases in fast fashion

Manufacturers need to also be taking responsibility for ethical practices occurring in fast fashion

Research surrounding the New Zealand consumer and their relationship with fast fashion


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11 References:Ball State University (2012) Using Focus Groups Retrieved from

https://cms.bsu.edu/-/media/WWW/DepartmentalContent/Effectiveness/pdfs/Wkbk/WBKM12012%20%20Ch%209.pdf

Baptist World Aid. (2015) The Australian Fashion Report 2015 (Baptist World Aid Fashion Report) Australia: Nimbalker, Mawson, Cremen, Wrinkle & Eriksson

Birch, s. (2009) Rise of Shopping Ethics Retrieved July 27, 2015 from http://www.ethicalconsumer.org/commentanalysis/ethicalsceptic/riseoftheethicalconsumer.aspx

Boundless. “Consumer Awareness.” Boundless Marketing. Boundless, 21 Jul. 2015. Retrieved 03 Aug. 2015 from https://www.boundless.com/marketing/textbooks/boundless-marketing-textbook/introduction-to-marketing-1/the-importance-of-marketing-22/consumer-awareness-129-4833/

Business Dictionary, 2015. Retrieved 03 Aug. 2015 from http://www.businessdictionary.com/definition/ethical-standards.html

Brones, S. (2015) 9 Ways Women are Getting Abused in the Garment Industry Retrieved from https://bkaccelerator.com/9-ways-women-getting-abused-fashion-industry/

Cohen, D and Crabtree, B. (2006) Semi Structured Interviews Retrieved from http://www.qualres.org/HomeSemi-3629.html

Ethical Sourcing Statement For The Just Group ("Group"). (2014, January 1). Retrieved May 25, 2015, from http://www.justgroup.com.au/asp/ethical.asp

Euromonitor International. (2014) Consumer Lifestyle in New Zealand. Retrieved from http://www.euromonitor.com/consumer-lifestyles-in-new-zealand/report

Gabrielli, V., Baghi, I., & Codeluppi, V. (2013). Consumption practices of fast fashion products: A consumer-based approach.Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2), 206-224. doi:http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0076

Glassons (2015) Terms and Conditions Retrieved from http://www.glassons.com/

Joy, Sherry, Venkatesh, Wang & Chan. (2012) Fashion Theory. Fast Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands, DOI: 10.2752/175174112X13340749707123

Kim, H., Ho, J. C., & Yoon, N. (2013). The motivational drivers of fast fashion avoidance. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2), 243-260. doi:http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0070

Kitzinger, J (1995) Introducing Focus Groups. Retrieved from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2550365/pdf/bmj00603-0031.pdf

Kumar, S., Garg, R., & Makkar, A. (2012). Consumer awareness and perception towards green products: A study of youngsters in india. International Journal of Marketing & Business Communication, 1(4), 35-43. Retrieved from http://search.proquest.com/docview/1478016636?accountid=46872


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Libweb. 2004 Introduction to Research. Retrieved from http://libweb.surrey.ac.uk/library/skills/Introduction%20to%20Research%20and%20Managing%20Information%20Leicester/page_51.htm

Manchiraju, S., & Sadachar, A. (2014). Personal values and ethical fashion consumption. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 18(3), 357. Retrieved from http://search.proquest.com/docview/1660748548?accountid=46872

McNeill, L & Moore, R. (2015) Sustainable Fashion Consumption and the Fast Fashion Conundrum: Fashionable Consumers and Attitudes to Sustainability in Clothing Choices. International Journal of Consumer Studies. Retrieved from http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ijcs.12169/abstract

Niemtzow, E. (2013) Are Consumers Done With Fast Fashion. Retrieved from http://www.bsr.org/en/our-insights/blog-view/are-consumers-done-with-fast-fashion

Newton, N. (2010) The Use of Semi Structured Interview in Qualitative Research: Strengths and Weaknesses. Retrieved from http://www.academia.edu/1561689/The_use_of_semi-structured_interviews_in_qualitative_research_strengths_and_weaknesses

Penfolds, P. (2014) The Ugly Side of ‘Fast Fashion’. Retrieved from http://www.3news.co.nz/tvshows/3d/the-ugly-side-of-fast-fashion-2014062516#axzz3aR3zKPv9

Retail News. (2014) Get Ready – The Fast Fashion Icons “are coming”. Retrieved from http://retailnews.co.nz/2014/08/get-ready-fast-fashion-icons-coming/

Reinhard, Schmidt, Rutzel and Zentgraf (2013) Working Conditions in the Global Fashion Industry Retrieved from https://laboureconomics.wordpress.com/2013/04/30/working-conditions-in-the-global-fashion-industry/

Resources HWB. (N.D) Semi Structured Interview. Retrieved from http://resources.hwb.wales.gov.uk/VTC/ngfl/psychology/learn_train/research_methods/208E70A8-8FBD-45C2-8DC2-A212F1991377/s03research_methods/070a_semistruct.htm

Shaw, D., Grehan, E., Shiu, E., Hassan, L., & Thomson, J. (2005). An exploration of values in ethical consumer decision making. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 4(3), 185-200. Retrieved from http://search.proquest.com/docview/195040753?accountid=46872

Unido. (2011) Developing Countries Spur Growth in Global Manufacturing – UN Retrieved from http://www.un.org/apps/news/story.asp?NewsID=40585#.VcqslzCqqko

Wilson, J, (2014) Imported Clothing. Retrieved from https://www.consumer.org.nz/articles/imported-clothing


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12 Appendices12.1 Appendix 1

Focus Group Questions

Before focus group starts, introduce myself and what we will be discussing today, explain what fast fashion is.

Engagement Questions

1. What are some of your favourite fast fashion brands to shop at?Glassons, topshop, vally girl, dotty,

2. Do you know where your clothing sourced from and where it is made?No and China pretty much anything China

3. Is cost a factor when purchasing?Cost is with fast fashion because it out of fashion within 12 months. Its crap and other people will have the same cloths. Not a time piece

Exploration Questions

1. Are you aware of any unethical practices within the fast fashion industry?Slave labor, child labor.

2. If you are aware does this affect your buying behavior?Bad, like a jerk, this doesn’t effect the behaving behavior and the cheap sales stimulate more buying, bargaining behavior. Still aware but don’t think about it.

3. Do you think consumers or businesses or both should be more active in trying to achieve more ethical behavior at the manufacturing end?

Business need to moderate behavior not the consumer.

Exit Questions

1. Is there anything else that you would like to add in regards to this topic and/or the reasons why you purchase fast fashion?

Business are trying to moderate the factories in China but it is going to take a while. Consumers and public need to be educated to make the biggest change. More money spent more interest in the source of the clothing!


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12.2Appendix 2

Interview Transcription

A: How were your companies researched before buying from them?

B: Usually we talk with the companies when we considering purchasing from them, so there will be some dialogue around, well it depends on how much information they put up front. Often we will already know about them from just being in the industry with them. There is some pre-vetting if its at an industry gift fair, which is where we go and many of the suppliers will be there and we can shop within one area. Usually in a convention centre, there is usually some pre-vetting done by those who run the gift fairs. And then we can do our own online investigation, we also talk retailer to retailer and we have some relationships in buying groups, in which we can actually talk within and also often there’s a term of agreement signed between the two companies, an agreement to trade in which information is passed. We don’t, it depends on what we want to know, what the investigation will entail. What we want to know. Are they good suppliers, will the supply what we have bought on time at the price, at the quality. We would research that differently to how we would research whether they are an ethical supplier or not.

A: When you did choose suppliers why did you choose them, is it because there was demand from customers or you felt it would sell well?

B: It was all of that, when you are buying you never usually come from one aspect, you are usually juggling about 6 balls at once. So it’s a combination of all those things, we will see a trend coming and we wish to source it ahead of customer demand, it might be that its historic, that we have had that kind of product, if not that exact same product before, that sold well we wish to reengage or the customers are asking for it. It may just be a gut feel and we think its awesome, which we don’t make that decision particularly often. It may be a pricing decision, that we are missing that pricing and that maybe we have priced to low and that all our products are to entry level, too cheap or we are to high and we feel we have gaps in our profiling.

A: What factors did you as a buyer consider when buying? Was ethics a factor? Did you mainly look at price?

B: Ethics can be a factor and will be significantly more of a factor going forward, there’s a lot of talk about it, mainly coming from the rana plaza collapse and the Baptist world aid report. There are pretty big things coming and we have already seen Glassons pipped at some of their sourcing behaviours. When our buyers go to make the decision to purchase it is based on a number of things, it can come down to what price can we buy it? It comes down to what we call terms of trade and terms of trade are basically an agreement to engage and we can negotiatie discounts for volume and payment discounts, as in guaranteed payment, which isn’t always the case for


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some retailers. Some retailers can’t always pay on time everytime, which is something that we always do. So because of that we can negotiate a bit more strongly. It comes down to a lot of things that we talk about, it can be that historically we have traded with them and there’s no reason that to change that so we continue on, or we have ongoing lines with them that we wish to continue with. For us being in NZ a lot of it comes down to freight terms as well we have to pay to move the product around NZ. Freights a major concern, the timeframe of supplier, yes we are placing it with that supplier but we are placing it in context of what we have on the floor currently, of what we have planned for that season, cause we buy seasonally so there’s 2 seasons a year, although there can be trans seasonal as well. We have a plan for what we are going to purchase within that season and if the supplier is saying that they will supply within that time frame then we would consider that part of our plan down the track. However if that supplier has historically been a pain with supply and not delivered when they said, we face loss sales cause we have planned that product and we have planned the sales of that product for that time frame.

A: Do you ever get feedback from consumers wanting fair trade or ethical products?

B: not really, it’s a rare occurrence. I think that its particular to where we live, they are not, its not on their agenda, however if I reflect that backwards, when NZ companies shop at international gift fairs we are very well known for asking questions around ethics so NZ retailers have an awareness of it, I think NZ customers have a growing awareness of it but a failure to recognise their behaviours impact on this. So my point for that would be you cannot expect to have cheap items without having a negative effect somewhere up the supply chain. So if something is $2 you would have to expect that there are some negative associations around that, maybe. Lets be careful around that, not guaranteed, it could be $2 cause it hasn’t sold and we have cut it to $2 to get rid of it. But you cannot blindly go in and buy cheap as chips items and think that you don’t have part of the say in how that product is sourced and manufactured and I think while this focus is going to come into course over the next 2 years very closely on the ethics of NZ retail and NZ brands I equally believe that there needs to be a recognition on the consumers part that they drive that behavior. If you don’t buy it, I’m not gonna buy it. Consumers drive the demand, we choose what goes in the store, and there are things that we refuse to put on the floor. We will never knowingly engage with any supplier that is sourcing unethical product, we will walk away; we don’t want a bar of it. Both personally ethically and for the branding of our company we are uninterested and we will never do that. However what you’ll find often times with New Zealanders is that it’s a smoke screen in terms of NZ suppliers will not always know to the full extent where that product has come from and its components. Even products made up of multi components they may not be able to source it right back. If you think clothing wise, the brands or suppliers bringing it into NZ may not always know exactly where their thread has come from to the end degree.

(Goes off topic)


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Its not always the NZ suppliers fault, they often don’t have the purchasing clout to go up the supply chain and say that’s not cool we can’t engage with this. And on the front facing of that, to put an ethically sourced lets say linen, sheets in front of a NZ customer, it’s a lot of money and NZ customers often are on the whole very conscience of bargains and maybe not aware of value and ethics although I would caution that there is a growing awareness. To the general mass often price is the biggest indicator and there’s often a disconnect between the realities of how that price comes to be and the ethical. So the same person watching a program on tv talking about ethical demands of fashion. Going man that’s horrible, that’s awful how can that ever be? I would never take part in that will go and buy a product that is actually coming out of those factories at a bargain rate and not understand that they are part of the cycle.

(Goes off topic)

Customers don’t always care about ethics, if you look at awareness of pigs are farmed in NZ, very few people will either stop eating bacon or buy free range cause they’re driven by price. These customers know what happens to these animals (chicken as well) and customers will still purchase it.

(Goes off topic)

There’s a whole lot of ethical stuff that’s already in existence that’s proven not to effect customer demand, which frankly is appalling. So I think it will be a very challenging time for the industry and it will get vilified through the media, whether that actually effects change from the customer, which will be the ones that drive the change at the end of the day. I don’t know, because it hasn’t happened in the food industry, which has had an immense amount of negative press.

(Goes off topic)

At the end of the day the biggest thing that will drive any change will be customers, the best thing that any customer can recognise can be that every dollar that they spend is a vote for the world they want to live in. so you can vote for the good guys or you can vote for someone else. And ask the questions, if you don’t wish to buy things that are sourced unethically, ask, push it back.

A: It’s definitely something that I think needs, in the fast fashion industry more transparency within the supply chain.

B: Absolutely, there’s a whole lot of work that the retailers can do and the suppliers can do to get ahead. But lets be very clear that retail is a very tough business and unless there is a big drive to change it won’t cause its just another added cost another added extension of time in an already busy world.


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From my point of view and from my companies point of view its something we are conscience of, we don’t want to engage with we don’t wish to put unethically sourced products on our shelves, we never knowingly do so, ever.

A: Its obviously very hard with fashion as you just can’t always trace the supply chain to the original source.

B: its very hard, but then with that said if enough demand comes from the customer and enough demand comes from the retailer and enough demand comes from the suppliers back to where its sourced, things will start to change. Its not something that we just have to accept and run on with and don’t get me wrong, I’m not putting all the onus on the consumer I’m just saying that a lot of the responsibility does sit there and equally it sits with the retailers and it sits with the suppliers and if everybody starts pushing the same bandwagon, things will change. All three parts of this industry has a disconnect between the products on the shelves and how that product was made.

(Goes off topic)

In the context of the world NZ has less than 1% of trade so our impact on the change is minimal however these talks have been going on for a long time in bigger areas such as the UK in particular for a long time. Supermarkets first, that’s done very well and now moving to the more fashion retailers. So its coming but people will need to bandwagon. We need to make it important or it won’t happen.

(Goes off topic)

Everyone deserves the right to live above survival and its not ok that our world is, that our very wasteful wealthy west is built on the back of a very poor east. That’s not ok. In the end it comes down to every dollar you spend as a customer, every dollar the retailer spends, every dollar the supplier spends is a vote for the world that we want. However if we have a shop full of ethically sourced product that no one is buying we put hundreds of people out of a job. So when a buyer goes into buying they consider 6 or more things, not just ethics but that aspect needs to be on the table. Ten years or so ago when I started buying and I was in the Jewelery field and I asked those questions people looked at me like I was a crazy and now I think they would find that, that question gets asked a lot more. And it should be and we should be asking those questions and I really welcome the shifts in changes that will be coming. It will be hard but I think it can only be a good thing if we start looking after these people.

(Goes off topic)

Its something that I would say that any large retailer will be aware of cause a lot of large format retailers that is doing vertical supply chain and bring in their own products under their own labels has impact here. Retailers using poor


36Aliesha Duffin

quality to pass on lower prices also brings into question the sustainability of fast fashion.

Fast fashion has a lot of answer for in that regard but I don’t think anyone will change the appetitie of the consumer now, that they want new new new, it would be hard to argue that. People want to look at good things and pretty things in the world. If we could take the following in the likes of what Kim Kardashian had, and the likes of what are important to her and put them on something that is actually important in the world, what a beautiful world we’d have. But we are uninterested in that.

A: That was all my questions; I really wanted to get your perspective as buyer, thanks so much for your time.


37Aliesha Duffin

12.3 Appendix 3

Age Group*RequiredPlease select the appropiate age group.

18-24

25-34

35-44

45+How often do you purchase new clothes?*RequiredPlease pick the answer most suitable to you

1-10 times a year

Once a month

1-5 times a month

6-10 times a month

11+ times a monthWhat are some of your favourite fast fashion stores to purchase from*RequiredPlease select all that apply

Glassons

Just Jeans

Jeanswest

Supre

Dotti

Jay Jays

Cotton On

Factorie

The Warehouse

KmartWhat factors are most important to you when shopping for clothes?*RequiredPlease choose the 2 most important factors to you from the list

Style

Cost

Convenience

Where it is made

Brand

Companies reputation

Other: Are you aware of where the clothing you purchased is manufactured?*Required

Yes

NoAre you aware of where the raw materials of the clothing is sourced from?*Required

Yes


38Aliesha Duffin

NoAre you aware of unethical practices occuring in fast fashion?*Required

Yes

NoIf you are aware, does this influence your purchasing decisions*RequiredPlease do no answer this question if you are not aware

Yes

No

It depends on the product

Add item


39Aliesha Duffin

fast fashion, loose ethics

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