fashion in history: a global look tutor: giorgio riello week 11 tuesday 12 january 2010 4-5pm...
TRANSCRIPT
Fashion in History: A Global LookTutor: Giorgio Riello
Week 11Tuesday 12 January 20104-5pm
PRODUCING FASHION IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY: INDUSTRIES AND ARTISANS
Three Parts
A. Changes in how Clothing was sold, c. 1750-1850
B. Changes in the production of textiles, c. 1770-1840
C. Changes in the manufacturing of clothing, c. 1840-1914
"High Change, Rag-Fair" : outdoor view of rag fair, High Change, Wellclose Square, Stepney. Guildhall Library, London
Uniform of an 18th-century Russian Officer
Ready-mades were sold in large ‘warehouses’ (a warehouse in the 18th-century is a large shop that sell at cheap prices)
Example:
Bromley’s “Linen and Shirt Warehouse” in Charing Cross in London advertised that:
‘Any Gentleman having and immediate Call for ready made Shirts may be supplied with any quantity from 5s 6d to 21 s.’
Tradecard, c. 1750
Advantages of ready made:
1. Allows for choice
2. Allows browsing
3. Allows shops to sell a variety of commodity, normally at cheap prices
2. Mechanisation and Industrialisation in Textile Production
Petticoat and bodice. Produced in India.TAPI Collection, New Delhi, 05.12
Marie Antoinette en Chemise, 1783. Hessische Hausstiftung, Kronberg.
Textiles Imported from Asia into Europe by the EIC and VOC, 1665-1834 (pieces per year on average over 5-year periods)
0
200.000
400.000
600.000
800.000
1.000.000
1.200.000
1.400.000
1.600.000
1.800.0001665-1669
1675-1679
1685-1689
1695-1699
1705-1709
1715-1719
1725-1729
1735-1739
1745-1749
1755-1759
1765-1769
1775-1779
1785-1789
1795-1799
1805-1809
1815-1819
1825-1829
period
no. o
f pie
ces
per ye
ar
EIC
VOC
Fustian Jacket, c. 1630-60 said to have been presented by Charles II to Mary Grove. V&A
Spinning Jenny, invented by Hargreaves in 1767
Richard Arkwright and his water frame1769
Model of the power Loom invented by Edmund Cartwright in 1785
Stocking Frame invented by William Lee, 1578
Jacquard loom invented in 1804, with punched cards
‘The Development of the clothing industry… does not conform to traditional visions of the industrial revolution as a catalytic combination of entrepreneurial genius and sublime machines’
Michael Zakim, ‘A Ready-Made Business: The Birth of the Clothing Industry in America’, Business History Review, 73, 1 (1999), p. 65.
3. Clothing and Manufacturing
Isaac Merritt Singer (1811-1875)
Woman using a sewing machine, 1862, wood engraving entitled ‘Le Progres’, New York’, Science Museum, London, 1985-2094
Thomas Hood’s ‘The Song of the Shirt’ (1843)