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FOOTWEAR NEWS | JUNE 9, 2014 | Timberland’s Patrik Frisk took the stage last week to discuss brand realignment, honoring heritage and the challenges ahead. His talk set the tone for a day of industry-changing ideas at our summit. FRANK FRISK NEW YORK LIVE FROM HOT BLENDS Fall percolates with boots rich in detail POWER TRIPS Great summer getaways for some of the industry’s best 2014 FN SUMMIT SMART BOSSES, MASTER MERCHANTS & RISING DESIGNERS TALK BIG MOVES 2014

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  • FOOTWEAR NEWS | JUNE 9, 2014 |

    Timberland’s Patrik Frisk took the stage last week to discuss brand realignment, honoring heritage and the challenges ahead. His talk set the tone for a day of industry-changing ideas at our summit.

    FRANK FRISK

    NEW YORKLIVE FROM

    HOT BLENDSFall percolates with

    boots rich in detail

    POWER TRIPSGreat summer getaways for some of the industry’s best

    2014 FN SUMMITSMART BOSSES, MASTER MERCHANTS & RISING DESIGNERS TALK BIG MOVES

    2014

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  • The Talk Footwear’s most innovative change agents took the stage with provocative insights on dramatic transformations. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE

    Paul Andrew

    EdgardoOsorio

    Louis Leeman andErica Pelosini

    EdoardoCaovilla

    Michael Atmore, in conversation with

    Ivanka Trump

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  • 4 | | JUNE 9, 2014

    BY FN STAFF

    I t was the ultimate strategy session.The FN Summit, held last Mon-day at the Asia Society in New York, brought together top vendors, retailers and designers who are shaking up the industry.

    The executives sounded o on everything from building powerful brands and com-pelling retail concepts to keeping up with the fickle consumer through smart digital programs and product initiatives.

    To find out how these change agents are leading the way, read on for highlights from the event.

    Retail RevolutionIn a complex, rapidly shifting footwear mar-ket, innovation is the key to success. That was the message from executives at three leading retailers — Famous Footwear, Pedder Group and Level Shoe District — who took the stage to discuss their diverse strategies.

    Staying fresh and constantly looking for en-gagement points online and in-store is critical to ensuring Pedder’s future growth, said Peter Harris, president of Hong Kong-based Pedder Group.

    “The fascination now is in modernity,” he

    said. “Our challenge is to not be complacent. There isn’t one retail format. There isn’t one size fits all.”

    The company, which man-ages more than 250,000 square feet of retail space in the eight cities in Asia, is moving fast to meet the demands of an evolving consumer.

    “In China, the middle-class cus-tomer upgrades to luxury quickly, which is a big challenge for us. By being a part of the fabric of the community and on the ground, we can reach them. The customer in China is modernizing, not West-ernizing,” said Harris.

    One way the retailer part-ners with brands is through its Blitz collaboration program, which has featured labels such as Manolo Blahnik and Stubbs & Wootton, in special spaces at Lane Crawford.

    Beyond exclusive product, the firm is pumping up its digital presence, too. For example, Ped-

    der recently created a music video with Korean pop star CL as part of its Kenzo launch.

    Famous Footwear has been focusing more heavily on digital eorts as well. President Rick Ausick recalled that as part of parent Brown Shoe Co.’s repositioning, Famous put the brakes on store expansion three years ago, turning its focus to developing a mobile app, which launched last year.

    On the broader topic of omnichannel, Ausick pointed out the movement is nothing new for the family footwear chain. “It’s one of those things that everyone is talking about today, but we’ve been in that business for years. The next evolution of having our dot-com orders ship from stores is happening as we speak.”

    He noted that is crucial to help the retailer compete against e-commerce players, and the firm is working to cut its delivery times to hours from days. “[Online sellers] have the capability to move faster and build their whole business model around speed. We don’t know that we’ll ever be able to compete that way,” said Ausick. “But we can at least be in the game. If we’re not there, we’re going to lose to our competitive set.”

    The chain also has culled its real estate foot-print to boost profitability. “We’ve had negative store growth. We’ve closed more stores than we’ve opened,” he said. “We’ve relocated bigger spaces into smaller spaces, so we’ve been able

    to take our sales per square foot up about 15 percent or 18 percent over the last three years.”

    But store growth could ramp up at Famous Footwear. Ausick said the firm plans to bow five to 10 additional doors in 2014 and ’15. “And in the next two or three years, you could see a little more rapid store growth,” he added.

    One of the chain’s target markets is Canada, where it added a second location last month, in a Tanger Outlets Center on the northern side of Niagara Falls.

    Ausick pointed out the store is performing well so far, even though Famous already has a presence on the American side of the falls. “Yes, we’ve lost a little business on the U.S. side, but the volume we’re doing in Canada is much more than compensating for that,” he

    Peter Harris

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  • JUNE 9, 2014 | | 5

    said. Later this year, the retailer will debut four more doors in Canada, with seven addi-tional stores planned for 2015.

    On the product front, Ausick said Famous had a big win this spring with canvas footwear and has doubled down for the all-important back-to-school season.

    “It’s a business we’ve invested in for 10 or 12 years,” he said. “We built that customer around the idea that the key brands would be represented in our stores, with new product and colors and sizes. Sometimes you go get the trend and sometimes it comes to you, and that happens to be the case here.”

    Level Shoe District in Dubai has been work-ing to fuel growth across all product categories, from luxury and contemporary to men’s and sneakers, according to Rania Masri, GM of retail for parent company Chalhoub Group.

    Dubbed the largest shoe store in the world, at 96,000 square feet, Level, which opened in the Dubai Mall in 2012, capitalized on the mar-ket’s accessories-driven shoppers, Masri said. Indeed, Middle Eastern consumers spend $2.8 billion on fashion each year, and 20 percent of that is on footwear, according to the executive.

    “We considered this an opportunity,” she said. “We haven’t reinvented the wheel [with our large format]. ... The most important thing is oering a luxury experience, but don’t limit the oering to that. We want [to provide that] even if you are buying Havaianas.”

    Part of the firm’s strategy calls for a compre-hensive selection of brands from a variety of

    tiers. Uniqueness is also a priority, and the store launches 100 ex-clusives each season.

    Additionally, Level has backed a number of emerging design-ers and looks to social media to promote a busy schedule of in-store events.

    “We don’t have a heritage [to fall back on], so we need to be innovative with social media,” Masri said, adding that the inter-active relationship has informed the inven-tory. “The challenge was to talk to consum-ers and curate the space [based on those conversations].”

    And while Chalhoub Group does not plan to take the concept to any other international loca-tions, e-commerce will launch in the next year.

    “We want to focus on omnichannel and oer the same experience [online that you would get in the store],” Masri said.

    Brand ArchitectsIn today’s crowded market, it isn’t easy to build a powerful brand.

    But Patrik Frisk, Ivanka Trump and Sam Edelman are creating formidable businesses by staying laser-focused on their consumers.

    “First and foremost, the customer we have in mind is the millennial. They are incredibly powerful and they’re going to be more so going forward,” said Trump, EVP of development and acquisitions at the Trump Organization, and founder of Ivanka Trump Collection.

    “We’re looking through digital to create a platform where we can speak to this wom-an,” she said. “It’s a mixture of content and commerce.”

    (Trump boasts about 1.6 million followers on Twitter, 335,000 on Instagram and more than 800,000 on Facebook.)

    She explained that a strong online platform allows her company to capture a larger con-sumer age range. “My mother’s generation is the first generation that actually buys what their daughters are wearing, not what their mothers are wearing,” Trump said.

    Noting that her target shoppers tend to be more influenced by peers than traditional ad-vertising, the designer was quick to point out that her digital strategy is carefully tailored to each platform. Instagram serves as a curated, intimate experience; Twitter — her first foray into social media — underlines the brand’s au-thenticity; and Facebook is a voice for Trump Collection.

    Trump said she ventured into footwear after noticing an underserved area of the market, for chic and sophisticated shoes — and comfort-able shoes — at an affordable price.

    NPD’s Cohen: Break the RulesWhen it comes to meeting the needs of today’s savvy consumers, storeowners need to change things up, advised Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for The NPD Group Inc.

    “[Retailers] are steeped in tradition and [must] see how to change things,” he said. “They must learn what consumers want.”

    Cohen pointed to the shifts in consumer spending, particularly for the back-to-school season. “It’s no longer a June/July/August business,” he said. Today, it stretches through early fall, with October the biggest month of all. In response, retailers are buying more product, but not necessarily up front.

    While innovation drives purchases, said Cohen, consumers can be creatures of habit, and they want to know they can find their favorite items time and again. “Don’t make products obsolete,” he said. “Don’t leapfrog out of [something] they like. Add the new with the old. Keep it long and strong.”

    Cohen also dispelled some popular footwear myths, particularly weather-related ones. “Ten to 12 months of the year, consumers want in-season product,” he noted. “Let’s take some of our key items and allow [shoppers] to buy them when they want,” instead of giving up the sale to online retailers who can provide seasonal goods.

    And just who is doing all the buying today? It’s not just the kids, Cohen said. Instead of courting the millenials, he encouraged the industry to go after the lucrative baby boomer market, especially since young consumers spend an average of $1.3 trillion yearly, and their combined debt totals $1.1 trillion. “They don’t spend the way we think they do,” he said. “The big growth is with the boomers; however, we’re not going after them.”

    Rick Ausick

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  • “One of the biggest surprises is the complex-ity of making a great shoe,” she said. “So few can do it. Even with some of the great designer brands that nail it on the aesthetic side, the shoes aren’t wearable.”

    Trump credited her business partner, Marc Fisher, founder and CEO of Marc Fisher Footwear, with translating and executing her

    vision. “It’s so key to find the right partner,” she explained. “Marc and I met each other and, two weeks later, we had a deal. He understood my aesthetic and he was able to translate and execute it.”

    The polished entrepreneur noted it was her father, Donald Trump, who shared the best career advice: Love what you do.

    Still, she admitted her public profile is mark-edly different from his: “I admire [my father’s] candor and honesty ... but for me, [social me-dia] is about reinforcing the message of what I’m doing, what I’m building.”

    While Trump created a brand from scratch, Frisk — president of the Outdoor Americas Coalition at VF Corp. — took on a different kind of challenge when he was charged with overhauling Timberland.

    “We focused our brand strategies and decid-ed to grow our men’s casual footwear division and develop men’s apparel,” Frisk said, noting that he adopted a pragmatic timeline for the brand’s realignment to get things right.

    “We needed to slow down to speed up. ... We also decided to build a solid foundation in women’s footwear and realign our entire product structure to better portray how the consumer saw our footwear,” added Frisk, who was promoted to his current position earlier this year after a stint as Timberland president.

    To ramp up awareness, the brand — which uses the tagline “Best Then, Better Now” — started engaging with bloggers and stylists, began hosting more customer events and became more active in the social media arena.

    On the lessons learned during the image overhaul, Frisk said, “We have to lead with the consumer and do our homework, set the plan through formulating a vision, strategy, structure and process, with a focus on col-

    laboration and culture. Next, we have to stay the course.”

    Staying the course also has been important for Sam Edelman, founder and president of his namesake brand.

    The footwear veteran, who returned to the industry when he launched the business 11 years ago, said he remains true to his original vision: to create affordable, trend-right shoes.

    6 | | JUNE 9, 2014

    Advocacy MattersRob DeMartini isn’t afraid to speak up.

    While presenting at the FN Summit, DeMartini — vice chair-man of the American Apparel & Footwear Association and president and CEO of New Balance — outlined the trade organi-zation’s advocacy eorts in Washington, D.C., which remains in a state of gridlock.

    “The AAFA is an advocate for important issues impacting the footwear and apparel industries, such as corporate social responsibility, the environment, increasing business eciency and communications strategies,” DeMartini said. “Our motive for lobbying in Washington is to help influence laws and regula-tions to help your bottom line.”

    In addition to providing actionable solutions, the AAFA achieves its mission by providing members with valuable intelligence to make informed business decisions that enhance earnings and mitigate risk, according to DeMartini.

    Another way the association wields influence is by communi-cating the industry’s goals and needs to the public to deepen its understanding and knowledge about the sector, DeMartini said. Most recently, he added, New Balance benefited by teaming up with the AAFA to force the recognition of a law stipulating that U.S. soldiers must have American-made uniforms, including footwear.

    DeMartini said the law, called the Berry Amendment was passed in 1941, but stopped being followed in 2011 in regard to footwear. Following lobbying eorts in Washington by the AAFA, New Balance and its competitors, the law was again implemented in May to include athletic shoes.

    “The AAFA was very helpful in working the back channels about this business issue, and it’s a great example of what this powerful organization can help you do,” DeMartini said.

    Rob DeMartini

    SUMMIT2014

    Footwear attendees at the summit

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  • JUNE 9, 2014 | | 7

    Advocacy Matters

    “My [bright green, square] business card is a little introduction to my whole thought process — it’s different, it’s unique, it stands out,” said Edelman, who works alongside his wife, Libby, and son, Jesse.

    After many years in the business, Edelman and his team still draw inspiration from the same sources.

    “We are influenced by the runway,” he said. “But I don’t look at the shoes. I look at the clothes, the hair, the makeup. I believe shoes are the accessory to fashion.”

    Edelman’s trend-spotting abilities have been a big asset for his parent company, Brown Shoe Co., which first took a stake in the label in 2007 and acquired the brand fully in 2010.

    “Diane Sullivan has become one of my closest friends, even though she hates when I call her my boss,” Edelman joked.

    But the designer and Sullivan are serious about growth: Edelman will open an L.A. store by the end of the year, and 50 to 100 branded locations are slated to roll out over the next few years.

    The label also will launch an apparel line for

    fall. “Today, Sam Edelman has a lot more potential than just shoes,” said the founder.

    The New Class They are the future of footwear.

    The creative talent be-hind Aquazzura, René Cao-villa, Louis Leeman Paris and Paul Andrew sounded off on topics ranging from social media and celebrity placements to competition in the market and battling copycats.

    They started by expound-ing on the virtues of innova-tive digital strategies.

    “Access to designers was limited years ago, but with social media [that has changed],” said Edgardo Osorio, president and cre-ative director of Aquazzura, who said he operates the label’s Instagram account himself. “It’s an amazing tool. It becomes something so much more personal.”

    But can it affect sales? “When a celebrity wears the shoes [and it goes online], customers will ask where to buy them,” said Erica Pelosini, co-creative director of Louis Leeman Paris.

    Things got heated when the conversation turned to companies that imitate their designs. Osorio said he is working to get patents and has even initiated a couple of lawsuits.

    But Edoardo Caovilla, COO and creative director of René Caovilla, was more pragmatic.

    “The soles are part of the recognition of our shoes, but there is no way to protect [our-selves] from this kind of copying,” he said. “The shoe designer must be very fast-moving with his creativity and change every season.”

    For now, carving time in their busy sched-ules is the biggest problem facing these design-ers, they said.

    Paul Andrew, president and chief creative officer of his namesake label, also runs a con-sulting business. “It has been ingrained in me how to build a calendar and stick to it,” the de-signer said, alluding to his past work at Donna Karan and other fashion labels. He noted he crisscrossed the globe during the last month, and visits his Italian factory sometimes three

    SUMMIT2014

    RaniaMasri

    Sam Edelman

    times in a month.Expansion — especially in branded retail — is

    the next step for many of the designers. Louis Leeman will soon open a store on Madison Avenue in New York. Construction starts next month, Leeman said.

    For his part, Osorio will debut his first store and a company headquarters in Florence, while René Caovilla will continue to develop its chain of shops.

    And Andrew said Leeman might soon have competition in the men’s market, as he is considering expanding his collection, as well as adding accessories. —With contributions from Jocelyn Anderson, Jennie Bell, Kristen Henning, Dana Karlson, Khia Mercer, Margaret Sutherlin and Barbara Schneider Levy

    Key sponsors of the FN Summit included 24Seven, First Insight, American Apparel & Footwear Association, Shoefitr, Castanea Partners, TSG Consumer Partners, Cohn Reznick and Two Ten Footwear Foundation.

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  • SUMMIT FACESJune 2, New York

    It was quite the power gathering. The FN Summit helped kick o� market week with a bang last Monday, bringing together high-level retailers and vendors and hot young talent. While speakers gave insight into the fast-changing market, the audience took it all in. Attendees included Lord & Taylor’s Liz Rodbell, Target’s Karlyn Mattson, Steve Madden’s Ed Rosenfeld, Charlotte Olympia’s Bonnie Takhar and many others.

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    8 | | JUNE 9, 2014

    SUMMIT2014

    “We do almost 140 styles a season. I’m fortunate being in real estate — I have a large closet, but not that big.” — Ivanka Trump

    Rick Ausick,Diane Sullivan

    Sam EdelmanSusan Pellish-Thaler, Lisa Mitchell,

    Marika Nanni, Libby Edelman

    DaveGrange

    Steve Hill

    Sonny Shar,Isack Fadlon

    AndrewKiernan

    CarrieRubin

    First Insight’s Jim Shea and Matt Marshall

    Susan Itzkowitz, Marc Fisher, Ivanka Trump, Michael AtmoreUri Minko,Leslie Gallin

    Ron Frasch

    Eileen Tetreault, Brian Law

    Ed Rosenfeld,Matt BernsonGary Champion

    Su Kim, Carmen Cheng,Christopher Suarez

    Gilbert Harrison, Alexandre Birman, Fernando Porto

    Faryl Morse,Karlyn Mattson

    Scott Sessa, Jori Miller,Richard Martin, David Miller

    Neal Newman, Ron Fromm,Kate Kaplan

    David Kahan

    Liz Rodbell

    “There is one Harrods, one Bergdorf Goodman and one Level.”— Rania Masri (right) with Alberto Oliveros

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    Summer SizzleBon voyage! The footwear industry is gearing up for their summer vacation plans. Where are they headed? Read on.

    Diane Sullivan, chairman, president & CEO, Brown Shoe Co.

    Summer stop: Westport, Conn. “We just moved in so I’m looking forward to unpacking and decorat-ing the place properly,” Sullivan said of her new

    summer home.

    Kenneth Cole, founder & designer, Kenneth ColeSummer stop: “I’m hoping to find time for Martha’s Vineyard. That’s where I go when I have the time.”

    Isack Fadlon, co-founder, Sportie LASummer stop: Ireland, followed by Jerusalem, with a potential stop in Italy in between. “In Ireland, we’ll get a car and try to see a lot,” Fadlon said, who will travel with his family. “My daughter is 2 1/2, though, so we can’t do too much car time.”

    Neal Newman, president, Two Ten Footwear FoundationSummer stop: Ireland with his family. While there, they’ll visit Newman’s son, who is studying at University College Dublin. “Dublin’s a fun town,” said the exec, who maintains a home there. After Ireland, the Newmans and their daugh-ter plan to wind down in sunny Marabella, Spain.

    Dave Grange, president, Lacoste Footwear N.A.Summer stop: “I’m going to Nantucket, Montauk and London. I’m [looking forward to] warm weather, great seafood and not thinking about shoes,” he joked.

    Matt Bernson, designerSummer stop: “Biarritz, France, with the family. They have amazing surfing and great wine.”

    JUNE 9, 2014 | | 9

    Footwear FanaticNot surprisingly, Marigay McKee has quite the impressive footwear closet. “I’m loving what Manolo Blahnik is doing. I love what Jimmy Choo does for sexy pumps. Clearly I always love what Chris-tian [Louboutin] does. Of course, my Azzedine Alaïas are eternal,” said the president of Saks Fifth Av-enue at last week’s CFDA

    Awards. So what styles suit her best? “I might be getting a little more cautious as I get older — not in terms of heel height, but in terms of being daring.”

    Man ShowChristian Louboutin fêted his growing men’s collection in style last week. Guests braved the rain to step back into the Jazz Age on the rooftop of the

    McKittrick Hotel in New York. It was an homage to the label’s classic oxford Alfred, named after dance legend Fred Astaire, and showed how Louboutin can be understated in his execution. Celebrities on hand included “Hart of Dixie” star Jaime King and TV personalities Brad Goreski and Cameron Silver.

    Restaurant Confidential Industry vet Rick Paterno is moving from foot-wear to food. The former Highline United chief, who stepped down in late May, revealed that he

    By Kristen Henning, with contributions from Katie Abel, Jocelyn Anderson and Margaret Sutherlin

    Steve Madden in his Long Island City, N.Y., factory producing last-minute samples for FFANY. “I realized there were a few things we were missing, so I decided to go make them.”

    SPOTTED ...

    SPY

    and his wife are opening a restaurant called The Free Range in Chester, Vt., where they have a home. The eatery, which will serve creative com-fort food, is set to open at the end of August. “I’m leaving the industry, so I’m a little melancholy tonight,” Paterno confessed at last week’s FFANY party. “But this is something we have been think-ing about doing for a long time. I’m going to be living my dream.”

    Fathers Know BestFor Vince Camuto, Father’s Day arrived a bit early this year. The National Father’s Day Council named him, along with NFL star Curtis Martin, Blooming-dale’s Chairman and CEO Tony Spring and New Jersey Governor Chris Christie as Fathers of the Year. At last week’s event honor-ing the notable men, Camuto’s sons, Christopher and John Camuto, introduced their dad, while daughter Andrea and youngest son Phillip were also on hand. “Being a dad is the greatest thing that could have ever happened to me,” said Ca-muto. “Every day I wake up feeling like a gladia-tor thanks to my kids.”

    Men’s MomentDaniele Michetti can finally walk in his own shoes. The designer is set to launch men’s for spring ’15 with a collection inspired by a recent 10-day trip to the West Coast. “I like the feel [of California]. Everything is easier than New York,” he said. While the designer is busy juggling his own line and a design gig at Tod’s, Michetti said he makes sure to incorporate down time into his schedule. “I like to make shoes Mon-day through Wednesday,” he said. So what about Thursday and Friday? “That’s for partying,” he quipped. Priced at $550 to $750, the men’s line features rugged boots, loafers and laceless looks with tassles and studs. Up next, Michetti will jet off to Milan for a Tod’s meeting.

    INSIDER × NEWSMAKERSFN Spy

    Martha’s Vineyard

    London

    Ireland

    Marigay McKee and Liz Rodbell

    John, ChristopherPhillip, Vince and Louise Camuto

    Jaime King

    Daniele Michetti

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  • BY MARGARET SUTHERLIN

    NEW YORK —QVC Presents “FFANY Shoes on Sale” is gear-ing up for its annual gala with an expanded lineup of big names. The event, set for Oct. 8 at the Waldorf Astoria, will honor Bergdorf Goodman as Retailer of the Year, and Gianvito Rossi as Designer of the Year. Outgoing FFANY President and CEO Joe Moore, who will retire later this year, will receive the Jodi Fisher Humanitarian Award, which honors the late Shoes on Sales champion.

    As reported, Ivanka Trump, founder of her eponymous foot-wear line, will serve as the spokes-person for the charity program. In addition, breast cancer survivor and actress Sally Field will be tak-ing part, according to organizers.

    FFANY’s incoming president

    and CEO, Ron Fromm, said the fundraiser has become a source of “great pride” for the industry.

    “Our ability to donate to cancer research institutions is made pos-sible because of the shoe industry donations and our [top] event

    benefactors,” he said.

    The executive explained that shoes were — even more than usual — a key emotional con-nection for the honorees, who have all been involved in the industry in vari-ous capacities.

    For example, Fromm said, Bergdorf Good-man’s presi-

    dent, Josh Schulman, came to the retailer from Jimmy Choo, and Rossi has a long family history in the business.

    Of Moore’s honor, Fromm said, “Joe’s industry legacy is one of not just leadership but of philan-

    thropy. He has built Shoes on Sale to be something special and sort of its own brand with its own legacy. He lives life with integrity in the way he works, the love he feels for his industry and his generous ef-forts for people.”

    Since Shoes on Sale launched in 1993, the annual charitable event has raised more than $45 million for breast cancer research at insti-tutions including the John Wayne Cancer Institute and University of Pennsylvania Abramson Cancer Center.

    “This event is one where brands and industry people are so support-ive,” said Moore. “True competitors work together for Shoes on Sale.”

    Shoes on Sale Unveils Honorees for Fundraiser

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    10 | | JUNE 9, 2014

    INSIDERON DEADLINE × Top Stories

    BY KHIA MERCER

    NEW YORK — Increasingly erratic weather patterns are forcing buy-ers to significantly overhaul their strategies.

    “The [unpredictability] is making it di¡cult to determine seasons,” said Gretta Monahan, owner of Gretta Luxe in Wellesley, Mass. “I’m selling boots now in spring and open-toe shoes in winter. The seasons have blurred.”

    Jede Phillips, product manager at San Francisco-based men’s and women’s e-tailer Travelsmith.com, said she plans to o£er more tran-sitional footwear going forward. “I will still carry some spring sandals along with closed-toe options so that we have a well-rounded assort-ment. This should allow our cus-tomer to find a shoe that is suitable for a variety of weather patterns,” Phillips said.

    While market analysts remain vo-cal about the lack of fashion trends

    weighing on company earnings, Phillips said brands are taking an in-novative approach to standing out.

    “Color is a current trend vehicle. The styling is reminiscent of previ-ous seasons, but in a fresh palette. We will continue to see comfort technology and fashion merging, so new trends may emerge out of that marriage,” she said.

    Emily Jackson, associate product developer at Manchester, Vt.-based Vermont Country Store, said comfort brands were the standout at last week’s FFANY trade show in New York.

    “I’m liking the pastels colors and the mix of sportier, classic and high-end look, which is feeding o£ the strength in the athletic sector,” she said.

    The athletic boom suits Margaret Thouez, a buyer at Canadian-based chain Little Burgundy, which caters to the college crowd.

    “Our business isn’t so trend-driv-en, but we do well with brands like

    Je£rey Campbell, Dr. Martens, Vans and Converse because our shopper wants those styles,” Thouez said.

    For Kelly Elizabeth Johnson, owner and creative director at Miami-based Strut & Sole, the buzz around casual styles fits well in the warmer climates. “Espadrilles and slip-ons are big. In terms of fashion trends, a lot of things are being repeated. Several styles have come back that are timeless, like the d’Orsay heel and the minimal sandal,” she said.

    Meanwhile, e-tailers have not been as impacted by the erratic weather since they typically can warehouse goods in and out of season.

    Zappos.com’s Mike Normart, senior director of casual lifestyle, said, “Our sandal season begins in April and we sell them until Septem-ber. We also sell boots through April. People can’t always find things in stores [o£-season].”

    Still, the company looks at weath-

    er predictions and tries to be strate-gic about its buying strategies. “It’s always challenging since we want to represent whatever the [current] trends are. It [becomes] a balance of how much product to bring in and at what time,” Normart said.

    One item on his shopping list for spring ’15 was Birkenstock, a brand that has been “on fire,” he said.

    Sharon Smith, DMM for Sears Online Footwear, based in Plano, Texas, said since the weather can’t always be predicted, consumers are increasingly buying items as needed. For instance, they will buy sandals in January and boots going into summer, extending the seasonality of such products.

    When it comes to embracing trends, Smith said she customizes them to meet her customers’ taste level. “Everyone has a gladiator, but how can we adapt them to our cus-tomer,” she noted. — With contribu-tions from Barbara Schneider-Levy and Margaret Sutherlin

    Weather Woes Force Buyers to Tweak Plans

    CLARIFICATIONIn the June 2 story about Li & Fung and Aquatalia, the timing of the acquisi-tion was omitted. The deal occurred in December 2013.

    Josh Schulman Gianvito Rossi

    FN0609P10.indd 10 6/5/14 6:19 PM06052014182338 Approved with warnings

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    Jodie Snyder, Danielle Snyder,Rebecca Minko�, Alison KoplarWyatt, Libby Edelman

    JUNE 9, 2014 | | 11

    “The Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America at 70 is more robust than ever.”— Matt Priest, FDRA

    FFANY WEEKJune 2-4, New York

    From FFANY to Two Ten to FDRA, the industry was out in full force during market week. On June 4, Two Ten Footwear Foundation and Lacoste teamed up for a Young Professionals’ event at Suite 36 in New York. Dave Grange, Carrie Rubin and Sonny Shar made the rounds at the event, while just a few blocks away, women in footwear sat down for an intimate chat with Rebecca Minko, Libby Edelman, Jodie and Danielle Snyder of Dannijo and Alison Koplar Wyatt of Refinery29. Zappos.com head Tony Hsieh also made an appearance at the Two Ten HR Leadership Summit that day. Earlier in the week, the Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America celebrated its 70th anniversary advocating for the industry in Washington, D.C., by hosting a rooftop party at Eventi. And FFANY kicked o the spring ’15 buying season with an industry cocktail celebration at a new venue, Brasserie 8 1/2.

    “When a message is authentic and organic, the customer responds to it more.”— Jodie Snyder, Dannijo

    The Lacoste & YP Two Ten Party

    Steve Shapiro

    Tony Hsieh

    Michael andTherese Brownstein

    Larry Tarica

    Paul Mayer

    Georgia and Joe Moore

    André Assous

    Rick Paterno,Rick Cytrynbaum

    Ron Fromm

    Sofia Haberman

    Scott Silverstein

    Joe Brennan

    Lori Monaco Bernie LeiferDanny Schwartz,

    Blake Krueger

    Matt Priest, Jim Issler, Greg Tunney

    Bob Goldman Tsering Namgyal

    FN0609P11.indd 11 6/5/14 6:39 PM06052014184023

  • OUTDOOR RETAILER

    ISSUE

    ISSUE DATE: 7/21 |

    CLOSE DATE: 7/10

    FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ADVERTISING, CONTACT SANDI MINES, VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER, AT 212.630.4872, OR YOUR FN SALESPERSON.

    Sail into Summer

    By speaking directly to decision-makers across the outdoor market

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  • THIGH-HIGHS STEAM UP THE SEASON

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    JUNE 9, 2014 | | 13

    Fall’s boldest brew of boots demand attention

    in venti heights with frothy details. Here,

    CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA’s Andie gold-leather over-the-knee version is pure pick-me-up. Dress and

    bag by Versace.

    PHOTOGRAPHED BY KYLE ERICKSEN

    TALL

    ORDER S

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  • JUNE 9, 2014 | | 15

    VICTOR ALFARO’s

    bottle-green

    matte patent

    leather-and-suede

    boots. Dress by

    Agnona, coat and

    bag by Versace.

    FASHION EDITOR: Mosha Lundström HalbertASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR: Christian AllaireBOOKINGS EDITOR: Tricia VanGesselHAIR & MAKEUP: Carlo Longo at Bernstein & AndriulliMODEL: Manuela at Wilhelmina

    TALL

    O R D E R S

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  • CHARLINE DE LUCA’s

    velvet boots with

    metallic wedge

    REBECCA MINKOFF’s

    pearl-embellished

    suede boots

    SOPHIA

    WEBSTER’s

    houndstooth

    leather and

    PVC bootsDANIELE

    MICHETTI’s laser

    cut-out leather

    peep-toe boots

    SANTONI’s Rubelli

    tapestry lace-up boots

    TALL

    O R D E R S

    FN0609P14-16.indd 16 6/4/14 4:44 PM

  • JUNE 9, 2014 | | 17

    CHILDREN’S × WOMEN’S × MATERIALS & COMPONENTS × BUZZ

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    Bonpoint introduces its chic Parisian kids’ concept to New York’s Soho neighborhood, complete with a

    cabin that doubles as a playhouse and dressing area.

    Child’s Play

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  • MARKETPLACECHILDREN’S ×

    Christine visits the 1,900-sq.-ft. Soho boutique for a quick review with the merchandising team. Artful presentation and vignettes are key to the

    brand’s whimsical appeal, as are the candy-hued shoes. “The footwear business is very important,” she says. “The idea for Bonpoint is to have every-

    thing for children, from birth to the teen years. Before, we were buying shoes from other brands,

    as we only had a few styles. But since I joined the company, we added a full footwear oering.”

    Prices range from $90 for plimsolls to $280 for hand-beaded bootines. The most expensive item in the collection is a frock that tops out

    at $1,908. “The occasion dresses sell very well here,” Christine says, “but France remains our

    biggest market, followed by Asia and America.” Altogether, the company operates more than

    100 stores worldwide.

    11AM

    Kidding AroundDecades ago, when French children were good at school, they were rewarded with a small badge called a Bonpoint. Now, the term is better known as the kids’ brand that has been elevated to cult status, thanks to creative director Christine Iannamorato. Since taking the helm in 2005, the designer has boosted the label’s success, including a focus on footwear. “Children want to be comfortable in their shoes, whereas women couldn’t care less about that,” she shared on a recent visit to New York to fête Bonpoint’s new Soho flag-ship, situated next to fellow Parisian export Laudurée. As the brand prepares for its 40th anniversary next year, Iannamorato reflects on being the arbiter of baby style during a whirlwind day.

    From readying Bonpoint’s newest boutique to visiting favorite New York haunts, Christine Iannamorato keeps each day chic. BY MOSHA LUNDSTRÖM HALBERT

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    A Day in the Life

    18 | | JUNE 9, 2014

    Back at the store, activity is underway with florists, technicians and party planners all readying the space. Despite this highly organized chaos, the designer appears calm. “I am not as nervous as I used to be, although these kinds of events are always important,” she shares. “I hope people will think of the boutique as charming and cute. The idea is that all children and parents should always feel happy in a Bonpoint store.”

    Pieces from theSoho Collection oflimited-editionLiberty prints

    In Brooklyn, N.Y. 2PM

    We hop into a car to visit one of Christine’s newer Big Apple discoveries: the Willamsburg section of Brooklyn, N.Y. “I go there for vintage shopping,” she says. “It feels a little like Paris’ 10th arrondissement, which is very bohemian-chic.” We check out the Wythe Hotel and stroll around the neighborhood, taking in the colorful grati murals before zipping back to Manhattan.

    3PM

    The designer squeezes in an interview with The New York Times over lunch at Soho’s Cipriani,

    but can’t stay too long as she needs to prep for the following night’s opening party, which will include a live filming by Web star Garance

    Doré for Bonpoint’s site. “I wanted to have children in motion. Bonpoint garments are

    designed to allow for movement. I love to see the looks children create when they freely mix

    everything together,” Christine says, citing a trench, trainers and a tutu as a beloved recent

    toddler-styled look.

    12PM

    Opting for a complete change of scenery, we head uptown to The Carlyle Hotel. Christine takes me to the art gallery tucked upstairs, currently showing a series of Andy Warhol’s silkscreen portraits of Jacqueline Onassis. The vivid palette inspires the designer. “Color is about finding the exact hues and pairing them accurately,” she says. “For example, I would not do a combination of orange, turquoise and bright yellow on one look. I would rather have turquoise juxtaposed with gray.”

    4:30PM

    At high tea time, Christine discusses her discreet approach to celebrity dressing. “When I know a high-profile person has come to the store, I like to send her a small note and a bottle of our perfume, but that’s it,” she says. Sometimes, she will make special creations for clients, such as flower-girl dresses for Kate Moss’ wedding. “Kate had found a dress that her daughter wore when she was 2 that inspired the design. I made some suggestions about the colors and shoes,” she says. The designer ends her day at 7:30 p.m. with a team dinner at Blue Ribbon Sushi. “I have a big day tomorrow, so I need a nice meal and to go to bed early — quite like a little child.”

    5:15PM

    Though Christine woke up at 4:30 a.m., thanks to a combination of jet lag and a full agenda, she meets with her assistant, Farah, hours later over

    espresso in the hotel lobby. “Customers spend a lot more on children these days,” she says, getting right down to business. But because

    of Bonpoint’s reputation as a category leader, increased competition hasn’t been a major fac-

    tor. “I am very free on the creative side, although I pay close attention to sales figures and clientele

    feedback.” Customers include such celebrity moms as Kate Moss and Victoria Beckham.

    9:30AM

    Surveying the shop,which includes furniturefrom Parisian flea markets

    Best-dressed attendees atBonpoint’s opening party

    Taking in worksby Andy Warhol

    High tea at TheCarlyle Hotel

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    Fresh PaintThe line between fashion and art gets even fainter for fall ’14, as footwear designers dip into watercolor looks. From slippers to stilettos, women’s styles swirl with frame-worthy hues.

    Patent pump in shades of gray by PALTER DE LISO

    Pom-pom-adorned ballet flat from ARDEN WOHL X CRI DE COEUR

    MIISTA’s textile bootie with acrylic

    resin heel

    Color-splashed slip-on from SAM EDELMAN

    CHARLES PHILLIP SHANGHAI’s canvas

    smoking slipper

    Burberry Prorsum made a splash with watercolor prints for fall ’14

    JUNE 9, 2014 | | 19

    × WOMEN’S MARKETPLACE

    Trend

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    Pamela Gelsomini President, OrthoLite, Amherst, Mass.“We have two compounds in the same vein: Imperial and Impe-rial Plus. Like traditional Ortho-Lite, they are moisture-wicking, breathable and antimicrobial, but they’re denser. There is more body under the foot and a much higher ‘cush’ factor. It’s ideal in places where traditionally poured polyurethane has been used, and for [thinner] dress product.”

    Marc PeikertFootwear product specialist, W.L. Gore & Associates, Newark, Del.“Gore-Tex Surround product technol-ogy is noteworthy for 2015 because it is the only 360-degree breathable, dura-ble, waterproof [membrane technology for] hiking, multifunctional/multisport footwear for moderate and warmer conditions. [It] quickly channels sweat away from the feet through an open, patented construction below the foot. Excess moisture and heat can escape not only through the upper construc-tion but also downward below the foot, and then laterally.”

    Brett RitterCEO & co-founder, PlusFoam, Newport Beach, Calif.“Our pellet program. We’re now offering our material in pellets for injection molding in a foam process. You can [use] it in an injection mold process, using PlusFoam instead of EVA. Our material is the flour, eggs and water that someone puts into their cake, and it’s [available] in any Pantone color.”

    What will be

    the hottest material for your brand in

    spring ’15? BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY &

    JENNIFER ERNST BEAUDRY

    MARKETPLACEMATERIALS & COMPONENTS × Burning Question

    Nicole PerrySenior product manager, Poron Cush-

    ioning, Rogers Corp., Rogers, Conn. “Minimalist athletic styling is

    trending across categories. [We’ve developed] Poron Ethereal, a

    lightweight cushioning technol-ogy that maintains its resistance

    to compression and cushioning performance. Being open-cell, it

    offers breathability and moisture absorption. It maintains more

    than 90 percent cushioning prop-erties long term, with the weight

    of the material at about 40 grams per pair.”

    Mike GionfriddoPresident & CEO, Vibram USA, Concord, Mass. “Megagrip and -40C. Megagrip offers grip properties on dry and wet terrains while maintaining durability and wear. We can make it in a variety of hardnesses for different extreme outdoor activities and winter or summer. Our -40C compound provides extreme heat and bitter cold performance with a [tempera-ture range of ] 20 below zero to 250 degrees Celsius.”

    20 | | JUNE 9, 2014

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  • In FlightWestlake Village, Calif.-based Palladium has teamed up with military outerwear brand Alpha Industries for a fall capsule collection inspired by its shared heritage in the military and aviation fields. The collection features two unisex styles — the Pampa Hi Zip MA-1 boot and Baggy Zip MA-1 (above) — both detailed in Alpha’s signature nylon fabric in a range of colors and orange linings. To coordinate with the shoes, a slim-fit interpreta-tion of Alpha’s signature MA-1 flight jacket incorpo-rates all shades of nylon used in the boots. The shoes retail from $75 to $90, with the jacket priced at $175. Delivery for the series is slated for August/September through Palladium flagship stores, select specialty retailers and online at Palladium-boots.com and Alphaindustries.com.

    Lemon TwistAfter 40 years of manufacturing footwear compo-

    nents, molded footwear and occupational footwear, Procalçado has moved into the lifestyle arena with the launch of Lemon Jelly, a women’s collection of injection-molded footwear meant for rainy weather. The Pedroso, Portugal-based company

    will debut its series of novelty looks in the U.S. for fall ’14. All footwear

    smells of sweet lemon jelly. Retail-ing for $90 to $250, the line will deliver to a variety of

    accounts in July.

    Rain ReadyHavaianas is branching out from the beach. The Brazil-based footwear firm, known for its colorful line of flip-flops, will launch rainboots for fall ’14. The styles, in women’s and children’s sizes, are made of high-quality rubber with a soft cotton lining and feature signature brand elements, such as the key pattern and logo used on the flip-flops. In addition, a special brick pattern on the sole prevents slippage.

    Prices for the collection range from $80 to $95 for women’s, and $45 to $50 for children’s. The line will be avail-able starting in October at Havaianas stores and key retail accounts, as well as online at Havaianas.com.

    Portuguese FareLake Oswego, Ore.-based European Designs will round out its o¡ering of Portuguese brands Fidji and Lirio with the addition of Coqueterra for fall. The new men’s and women’s contemporary fashion collection includes san-dals, boots and shoes with comfort features such as padded insoles and rubber bottoms. Retailing from $185 to $230, the line will deliver in September to independents and boutiques.

    MARKETPLACE × BUZZFall ’14 Launches

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    FOOTWEAR NEWS 2014 EDITORIAL CALENDAR

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    6/30 6/19 In Person: Jim Estepa, Bread & Butter, Athletic

    Distribution: Shoe Market of Americas, Bread & Butter

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  • FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

    VOLUME 70, NO. 20. JUNE 9, 2014. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first weeks in March and September, second week in December, third weeks in May and November, fourth weeks in April and June, and fifth weeks in September and December) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Offi-cer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre., Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, LA 51593, call 866-963-7335, or email customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 800-662-2275 option 7. Basic one year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149; foreign $295. Regular single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes unde-liverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permission requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax requests to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please email [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-963-7335. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR ANY DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANU-SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSID -ERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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    22 | | JUNE 9, 2014

    King of ClayHeading into last Friday’s semifinal match against Andy Murray at the French Open, Rafael Nadal had lost just once since 2005, amassing a 64-1 record at the Grand Slam tournament. The Spaniard, in his head-to-toe Nike garb, has continued to electrify audiences throughout the 2014 tourney with unrivaled athleticism and fist-pumping antics. Nadal already has won the championship eight times at Roland Garros.

    FN0609P22.indd 22 6/5/14 4:45 PM06052014164749

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