fabric desing fundamentals of weaves

7/29/2019 Fabric Desing Fundamentals of Weaves

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CHAPTER

THREE:

FABRIC

DESIGN


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3.1 Fundamental Weaves Weft or warp threads must have only

one warp or weft overlapping within

the repeat.

The number of warp threads in a

repeat must be equal to the number

threads. There are 3 kinds of fundamental

weaves:

Plain

Twill

Sateen

Each weave is determined by 2

parameters:

The repeat, R of weave.

The shift, S of overlapping either

vertical shift, Sx or Horizontal shift,

Sy


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3.1.2 Plain Weave The simplest weave where

the threads interlace in

alternate order and classified

as balanced and unbalanced.

In trade, such terms as tabby,

calico, batiste are applied to

plain weave fabrics.


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3.1.3 Twill Weaves

The twill order ofinterlacing produces

diagonal lines on the

cloth.

The purpose is to makecloth havier, closer

setting and better

drapping.

The parameters: R 3

Sx = Sy = + 1


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3.1.4 Regular Sateen and Satinand Irregular Sateen Weaves3.1.4.1 Sateen Weaves In pure sateen weaves the surface of

the cloth consists almost entirely of

weft floats.

The parameters of sateen weaves: R

5; 1 < S < (R 1)

For regular sateen the shift (S) and

repeat (R) must be expressed by

prime numbers, its called weft face

fabric.

The sateen weave is denoted by afraction and the numerator of this

fraction is equal to the repeat of

weave.

The denominator is equal to the shift

(Sy) of overlaps.


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3.1.4.2 Satin (Warp Face Fabric)

Usually constructedusing the vertical

shift (Sx).

Satin has the warp

effect, and the

density of warp is

much higher than

the density of weft.

Sx=3


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3.1.4.3 Irregular Sateen Regular sateen cannot be constructed

with a repeat of four or six threads,

because the repeat and shift cannot be

expressed by mutually prime numbers.

It is impossible to construct the regular

sateen if R = 6, because among the

possible values of shift found from the

formula 1 < S < (R - 1), i.e. 1 < S < 5,the number 2, 3, 4 have a common

divisor with 6.

In this case, we cannot choose a

constant shift, but the sateen with a

variable shift can be constructed.

This sateen is called irregular sateen. 4-shaft irregular sateen can be

constructed by using the shifts 1, 2, 3, 2

as shown aside.

6-shaft irregular sateen with constructed

shifts 2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 2 as shown aside.


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3.2 Derivatives ofFundamental WeavesConstructed by means of deriving from

plain, twill and sateen weaves, and retaintheir structural features


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3.2.1 Plain Weave Derivatives This group of structure comprises various

simple weave which are varieties of the

plain weave and can be produced on two

heald shafts.

Warp Rep Weaves: Denoted by a fraction.

The numerator shows the

number of warp overlapping

and the denominator, thenumber of weft overlapping

on the same thread within

repeat.

Extending the plain weave

vertically.


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Weft Rep Weave:

Opposite to warp rep

weave.

Extending the plain

weave horizontally.

Denoted by a fraction.

Sum of the fraction

numerator and

denominator equal to the

warp repeat.


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Rug from Rep Weave:


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Hopsack Weaves: Constructed by extending the

plain weave both vertically andhorizontally.

There are 2 or more warp threads

working in the same manner and

2 or more weft threads grouped in

the same shed.

Its denoted by a fraction, the

numerator is the number of warp

overlapping, and the denominator

is that of weft overlapping on

each thread.

The sum of the numerator and

denominator shows the repeat on

warp and weft.


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Fabric from HopsackWeave:


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3.2.2 Weaves Constructed on Twill Bases

Regular twill are often used as the basesfor the construction of new weaves.

Reinforced Twills: Warp overlaps are added to the

single warp overlaps of the basicweft-face twill.

The simplest reinforced twill is

twill 2/2 (widely used).

In producing this twill the same

four shafts can be used for

making the selvedges on the

warp rep weave (necessary to

coordinate the operation of

shedding and picking

mechanisms).

Retain the property of theoriginal twill.


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Reinforced twill 2/2 (left handtwill, Sy= -1)


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Compound Twill:

It is obtained in parallel

construction of two or moretwill weaves on the same

area.

The number of shafts for

producing compound twill isequal to its repeat.

Retain the property of the

original twill.


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Fabric from compound twill:


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Angled Twill: Constructed by changing the sign of shift from plus to

minus, after an assigned number of threads.

With the change of sign, the direction of twill diagonal is also

changed.

To construct:

i. Calculate its repeat

ii. Weft repeat = Repeat of basic twill

iii. Warp repeat can be determined by the formula, Rx = 2Kx - 2

Rx = repeat of warp

Kx = number of warp threads after the sign of shift

changes.

Ryb = repeat of the basic twill

Ky = no of weft threads after the sign of shit changes


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Example:Construct the angled twill on the basis of twill2/4. The repeat of basis twill is 6.Answer:

Ry = Ryb = 6

Rx = 2Kx 2 = 2 (6) 2 = 10


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Diagonal Twill: Construct the basic twill with an increased vertical shift

(to increase the inclination angle of the diagonalchanges).

The increase of the shift from one to two is equivalent to

the doubling of warp density (practically the shift can be

accepted equal to two or three). Can be constructed into 2 cases:

i. The repeat of basic twill can be divided by the

increased shift.

Warp repeat, Rx = R So

Weft repeat, Ry = R

ii. The repeat of the basic twill cannot be divided by the

increased shift.


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Example 1:Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill4 . 4 . 1 , if Sx = 2.1 . 2 . 2Answer:

Warp repeat;

Rx = R Sx R = 14

= 14 2 Sx = 2

= 7Weft repeat;

Ry = R

= 14

First warp constructed according

the basic twill.

Second warp constructed

according to the same formula but

the shift equal to two, and so on.

If the repeat of the basis twill is nit

divided by the increased shift the

diagonal weave will have repeat Rx

= Ry = R.


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Example 2:Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill5 . 1 . 1 , if Sx= 21 . 2 . 1Answer:

In this case, Rx = 11

and Ry = 11


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Fabric from diagonal twill:


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Shaded Twill:

Represent a gradual transition from twillwith weft effect to the twill with warp effect

and vice-versa.

Mostly used Jacquard weaving for large-

pattern fabrics.

The repeat on warp and weft for the

shaded twill is determined by the formula;

Warp repeat, Rx = Rxb (Rxb 1)

Weft repeat, Ry = Ryb

Only straight draft is used.


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Example:Construct a shaded twill weave on the transitions of shaded twill 1 to 4 .4 1Answer:

Rx = Rxb (Rxb 1)

= 5 (5 -1)

= 5 X 4

= 20Ry = Ryb

= 5


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Fabric from shaded twill:


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3.2.3 Weaves Constructed onSateen BasesIn simple derivatives, a new design is

built up by using the original sateen asthe base and adding overlaps, as

required to each base overlap.


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Reinforced Sateen: Similar to reinforced twill.

If it is necessary to construct the reinforced sateen onthe basis of simple sateen 8/5.

One more overlap should be added to every overlap

of the basis sateen.

Widely used in cotton weaving (additional overlaps in

the repeat make the fabric structure stronger).


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Shaded Sateen: Like the shaded twill.

Shaded sateen represents a gradualtransition from the sateen with weft

effect to the sateen with warp effect,

vice versa.

The repeat Ry and Ro of the shaded

sateen is determined by the formula;

Ry = Ryb

Ro = Rob (Rob 1)

Example:

Construct a shaded sateen weave

on the transitions of shaded sateen

5/3.

Answer:

Ry Ryb = 5

Ro = Rob (Rob -1)

= 5 (5 1)= 5 X 4

= 20


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3.3 Combined or FancyWeavesThese weaves are constructed on the basis of

two or more fundamental weaves and their

derivatives. Divided into groups of crepeweaves, honeycomb weaves, corkscrew

weaves, huckaback weaves, stripe and

check weaves


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3.3.1 Crepe WeavesCrepe weave are characterized by a

pebbly or crinkle surface.

The size of pebbles and their

arrangement on the fabric surface

determine the type of crepe fabric

(crepe-de-chine, crepe-georgette and

so on).


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Georgette: Georgette describes a sheer silk (or silk-like) fabricwith a dull, creped surface.


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Crepe-de-chine:


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Construction of Crepe by DrawingOne Weave Over the Other: Choose at least two weaves (one of the weave is Sateen).

Warp repeat determines the number of shafts (type of shedding

motion of the loom should be taken into consideration).

It is common to choose the second weave with the same repeat as

the first one. If the second weave is not equal the repeat of the crepeweave is found as the least common multiple of the repeats of base

weaves.


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Construction of Crepe by Arrangingthe Warp Overlaps in Sateen Order: Constructed on the basis of sateen weave by adding

the warp overlaps.

Different groups containing two or more shaded

squares can be added at one of the sides of each of

shaded squares arranged in sateen order.


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Construction of Crepe by RearrangingWarp Twill weave can be chosen as basic weave.

The order of warp threads of the base weave should be changed.

The warp repeat changed very often but the weft repeat remains.

(These crepe weave can be produced on the same number of

shaft).

The arrangement is done by changing the position of threads on

the shafts and then constructing the weaving plan.

The construction begins with the lifting plan, where the crosses are

placed in the same manner as the shaded squares in the base

weave.

The lifting plan determines the number of shafts in the draft.

Arrange the warp threads on the shafts.

No general rules for the arrangement of the warp threads because

a variety of arrangements are possible (depends on the designer).


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Example:


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3.3.2 Honeycomb Weave orCellular FabricsA group of weaves forms an

embossed cell-like appearance of

fabric.Widely used for bathroom towels,

bed covers, quilts, winter garment,

etc.


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Example 1: The pointed draft should be drawn with the

number of shafts from 4 to 8.

The example used the number of shafts

equals 5, A.

The number of crosses for lifting plan

equal to the number of circles on the draft

(the arrangement similar to the position of

circles).

The space under the lines of crosses is

filled in with crosses is filled in with crosses

leaving one row of squares between the

space and the lines of crosses blank.

The third element, weave diagram are

formed by both element; drafting and liftingplan.

As a result when all the repeat combined a

hollow is formed in the centre part.


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Example 2:


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3.3.3 Corkscrew Weaves Kind of diagonal rib weaves.

Two types of corkscrew weaves:

1. Warp Corkscrew

Long warp floats on the face and on the wrong

side of the fabric.

It has greater warp density compare to weft and

the weave produces warp effect on both side of

the fabric.

2. Weft Corkscrew It has a weft surface.


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Warp Corkscrew Constructed on the basis

of sateen weaves such as,

5/2, 7/2, 9/2, 13/2, i.e. with

odd numbers of threads in

the repeat. It can be considered as a

derivative of sateen

weave.

Constructed by adding the

marks on the fundamental

sateen weave.


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Weft Corkscrew Constructed by turning warp

corkscrew into weft corkscrew

weave by rotating the weave

diagram by 90 and then by

substituting the warp overlapswith the weft ones, and vice

versa, A.

The direction of diagonal ribs

of the weave can be changed,

if necessary, by rearrangingthe weft threads in the

reverse order.


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3.3.4 Huckaback weaves Contains, on one hand, a

number of warp and weft

threads with long floats

which make the fabric soft

and moisture absorbent,

and on the other hand, the

plain weave threads which

ensure the firmness of the

structure.

Used for bathroom towels,glass cloths, and for

counterpanes.

Constructed on the basis of

plain weave.


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Example 2: The use of long floats in each

quarter of repeat.

If there are long warp floats in

the left bottom and right top

quarters, the long weft floats

are constructed in the left top

and right bottom quarters.

The long warp floats on the

threads 2, 4, 9 and 11 on the

face of the weave.

4 long weft floats are placed

on the threads 3, 5, 8 and 10

where the weft thread in the

place of float passes over 5

warp threads.


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3.4 Compound WeavesCompound weave fabric are of

a specific structure, therefore

special methods andmechanisms used in their

production


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Construction:

1. Choose the weave of the face (the warp-

faced weaves is chosen as the base

weaves). Example twill 3/1, A (the base

weave must have long weft floats on the

back side.2. The warp and weft repeat of this weave

equals 4.

3. The roman digits used to mark the threads

of the face weave.

4. The section cut through the warp at the

weft thread 1.5. The section for warp threads are

represented circles of the upper row, and

back warp by the circles of the lower row.

6. Weft thread 1, is placed below warp

threads 1, 2, 3 and above 4.

7. To bind, the suitable thread is warp thread

II because the point of binding is in themiddle of long float of the fabric (it is also

for better appearance).

8. The weft thread 1 has to be interlaced with

the warp threads of both systems.

9. The interlacing of the weft thread 1 with

the back warp at B can be transferred to

the diagram C.


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10.The face and back warp

threads are arranged

alternately or in theproportion of one face

thread to one thread, D.

11.The cross section of the

fabric through the weft

thread 1 is represented

at E.

12.The longitudinal sectionof the fabric through the

warp threads 1 and I is

shown at F.


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13.The weaving plan is

shown at G (divided draft

is suitable in this case).14.4 front heald shafts are

used for a face warp and

4 other shaft for a back

warp.

15.The ratio of the face and

back warps is 1:1, 2

warp threads should bedrawn in one dent of the

reed (the face and back

threads).


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3.4.2 Back Weft WeavesTo increase either the

thickness or mass of the

fabric.

2 systems of weft and one

system of warp.


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Construction:

1. Choose either warp-faced or

weft-faced weave.

2. Long warp overlaps are

necessary on the back side of the

weave for binding the back weft

to the fabrics.

3. Weft-face weave should be

chosen.

4. Example, weft-faced twill 1/3,A.5. The longitudinal section of the

fabric at warp 1 is shown at B

(weft threads are arranged in 2

vertical rows).

6. There is a long float of the warp

thread on the back side of theweave.

7. The most suitable point of

binding is the middle of the long

float.

8. The interlacing of the warp and

the back weft, C.


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9. In this double weft

weave, the face and

back weft threadsalternate with each

other, D.

10.The longitudinalsection of the

weave is, F and the

cross section at the

weft threads 1 and I,at E.


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11.The weaving plan is

shown at G. The

warp repeat of thisweave is 4, so the 4

heald shaft are

sufficient. The

straight draft is

used.


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3.4.3 Terry Toweling Weaves

Characterized by the formation of loops which areraised above the surface of the fabric either on

one or both sides.

Used for toweling, bath mats, bed covers and

dress (posses good wet ability, hygroscopisity andheat conductivity).

Two systems of warp threads and one system of

weft threads are usually used.

One warp interlacing with weft forms the ground

structure.

The second warp is used for forming the loops

which are firmly held in the ground structure.

Construction:


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A

Construction:

1. There should be two weavers beams

(difference tension during weaving).

2. The ground warp has a great tension. The

warp is loosely held in the loom.

3. The loom equipped with a special slay

motion, where the first two strokes of reed

are shot, but the third one is normal.

4. The loop threads, marked by Arabic digits,

alternate with ground threads which are

marked by roman digits.

5. Two warp repeats and four weft repeats,

B and C.

6. The simple base weave used to construct

this terry weave.

7. The interlacing of weft threads with the

ground warp threads is shown at B, and

that with loop warp threads at C.

8. Four heald shafts are sufficient for

producing this weave. The divided draft is

preferable.

9. The longitudinal section of this weave is

shown at D.


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Fabric in which the

loops are distributedon face surface


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3.5 Jacquard WeavesLarge patterns fabrics using several

hundreds warp threads interlacing

with the same number of weft

threads in the repeat equipped with

a particular type of shedding motion

called Jacquard machine.

fabric desing fundamentals of weaves

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