fa 28 weaving report
DESCRIPTION
TRANSCRIPT
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Mendoza | Pantaleon | Rana | Sebastian | Villarica
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Process of passing threads or strands of material under and over each other to produce textiles
May be plain or decorated by dyes, embroidery, and applique
Photo from: http://www.ironwulf.net/wp/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/yakan_weaver_03.jpg
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Abel Binangonmag-abi Mun’obol Habe Habol Hablon Havil Maghablon
Photo from http://www.cityofpines.com/easterschool06.jpg
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Warpthreads = vertical From warp beam to the
breast or cloth beam Weft threads =
horizontal Attached to shuttle that
crosses horizontally Heddle rod
Raises/lowers odd and even warp threads
Makes space for shuttlePhoto from: http://www.kipas.nl/Textiles/JPG/Backstraploom1.JPG
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Oldest and simplest type of loom
Still used in Southeast Asia
Photo from http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_pVwyz2RGX9s/TKUH4Qg770I/AAAAAAAAANw/z1EdOG3zCNs/s1600/ifugao+hand+loom.jpeg
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Leather backstrap Woven matting or
wood attached to the breast by string or rope
Outstretched feet support warp beam
Breast beam on lap and backstrap passing back
Weaver shifts weight forward and backward to control tension of warp yarns Photo from
http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/comp/Y2/019/657283.jpg
Ifugao weaver
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For manageability:Width of backstrap loom falls within arm span of weaverLength of cloth determined by length of warp threadsTo create large blankets and malong(tubular skirts), two or three separately woven pieces are stitched together
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Other backstraplooms Warp beam secured to
tree or house post Warp beam slotted in
upright door frame Frame looms
Bigger and more complicated structure
No longer dependent on body tension
Frame Loom
Photo from http://www.goodwoodlooms.com/images/fl6cropped.jpg
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Use of backstrap loom Organized interfacing of warp and weft
threads Leaning back against backstrap controls
tension on warp Passing of shuttle
Facilitates weft thread Pressing of new weft evenly
Using beater
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Pre-colonial influences:Southeast Asian Malay animistIndian Hindu BuddhistsChineseArabic-Islamic strainsAncient cultural sources: Oceanic cultures of the Polynesian South Pacific
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Since Philippine Iron Age (200 BC)
Malayans brought art of weaving on backstrap loom (400 BC)
Earliest example in the Philippines: Banton, Romblon 13thcentury piece
of ikat-dyed abaca cloth Photo from
http://www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph/nationalmuseumbeta/Collections/Archaeo/banton.png
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Spanish Times:Before: pounded tree barks fibrous bark cloth (tapa)Early Spanish occupation: Filipinos in bark and woven fibersHand-weaving hampered by influx of cheap Chinese goodsLocals have strong preference for locally manufactured textiles
Photo from http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2486/3922321372_d309a6b999_z.jpg?zz=1
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American Regime:Specialization per region
Ilocos = cotton and silk Panay = jusi
1903: 18.8 % of total population = weavers or spinnersSuccessful in local market, unable to compete internationally
Japanese Period:Many handlooms destroyed by war
After War:Government support for weaving
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Work of women Shows their role in
their society as weavers
Indicates position as respected figure
Female weavers respected as male warriors are
Photo from http://images.fanpop.com/images/image_uploads/Traditional-weaving-the-philippines-488962_594_449.jpg
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ABACA (ah bachah)Also called Manila hempFrom stalks of banana relativeValued for its natural lookAbsorbs dye unevenlyEx. T’bolit’nalak Photo from
http://ecokaila.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/abaca-fibers.jpg
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BACBACSoftened strips of abaca barkFor basket making in the Philippines
BAMBOOForm strips of stalkAbsorbs dye unevenlyUsually completely hand-woven Photo by Maria Jesus Magdalena
Mendoza
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BUNTALFrom large stems between the trunk and leaf of the CoryphapalmLong, tough fiber very attractive and durableOriginally used instead of bamboo in hand woven hats, bags and mats
Photo from http://image.ec21.com/image/gikatharel/oimg_GC05128984_CA05129001/Philippine_Buntal_Handbag.jpg
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COTTONMajor crop in Cordilleras, Ilocos regions, and Visayas
JUTE (also called saluyot)Jute was used for rope and sackcloth Strong and durable, but dyes unevenly
Photo from http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Ci_cb2_xSlw/S0awqZ6HI6I/AAAAAAAAE0I/GUJkYPiYdaI/s400/Cotton.PNG
Photo from http://images03.olx.com.ph/ui/20/56/02/1334773987_209655402_1-Pictures-of--Jute-Sack-for-sale.jpg
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NITO FOREST VINE Thin-stemmed vineOuter skin usually woven without curing or dryingNatural colors vary from green to light brown to black
Photo from http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wmuaQRfIzzA/TiNMdum1f2I/AAAAAAAAAus/2vFma803Xls/s1600/Nito+cup.jpg
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PANDAN (also known as sabutan or karagumoy)Grows wild on the seacoastPandan shrub also called “screw pine”
Pineapple-like leaves in a corkscrew patternDries unevenly used in irregular weaves
Uneven dyeing color variations
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PINA“Queen of Local Fabrics”Not indigenous to PhilippinesSoft, fine, flexible, strong, white, lustrousMade into embroidered handkerchiefs and altar cloth
Photo from http://www.ecouterre.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/layered-pina-cloth.jpg
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Iloilo, Panay = used to be center of pina weaving Before: 60,000 looms
in Iloilo Merging of technology
of Spanish experience in embroidery + European taste + native expertise in weaving
Photo from http://www.flickr.com/photos/quingobillos/4127635585/
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RATTANEasily bent and holds shape when dryUsed for baskets and furniture
RAMIEShrub which yields a tough, white, and lustrous fiber from its stemsWoven commercially in table linen primarily in central Philippines Photo from
http://www.thekerrgallery.com/files/gimgs/201_ifguao-rattan-backpack-2.jpg
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Decorative dyeing techniques Preconceived design bound fibers dye
weave Weave wax/embroidery dye Both are resist-dyeing techniques
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mengikat (Indonesian) meaning “to bind or knot”
Decorative dyeing technique
Pattern of fabric is determined before weaving begins
Photo from http://www.kipas.nl/Textiles/JPG/IfuIkatDetail.JPG
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Known art of Ifugao Dominant method
by highland groups of Eastern Mindanao (Tboli, Bagobo, Tagakaolo, Mandaya, Bilaan, Ubo, Kalagan)
Bundles of thread knotted at carefully determined points, bound areas resist vegetable dye
Dyed threads arranged on loom
Colored areas form desired pattern
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Attention to detail and ability to visualize
Can be warp, weft, or double ikat
Ex. t’nalak of T’boli Ex. dagmay of
Mandaya in Mindanao = colored abaca cloth with intricate figures and patterns
Photo from http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_q7NZPEVICy4/SqhV69cyEhI/AAAAAAAAACQ/tlY-eH8GUt8/s320/dagmay4.JPG
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Embedding design on thread by dyeing tied threads (tied sections resist dye)
Yellow from wild ginger, red from narra shavings, black from mud with high-iron content
Addition of antique glass or ceramic beads (particularly among the Bagobo)
Photo from http://images.peabody.yale.edu/emu/235/676/235676.jpg
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Dye-resistant technique
Embroidery dyeing removal of the embroidery to reveal the undyed section
Ex. Bagobosawal (trousers)
http://www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph/nationalmuseumbeta/Collections/Ethno/Trouser.html
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Decorative weaving techniques Design comes from
weaving process (not dyeing)
Warp and weft threads are interlaced together
Use of different colored threads to make strips and plaids
Warp-faced, weft-faced, or balanced weave
Photo from http://collections.burkemuseum.org/ethnology/WebImages/Burke/large/0000265685.jpg
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Decorative weaving Produces complex
mosaic designs Weft threads in
many colors, do not pass through entire area of warp
Symmetrical design Usually with central
design bordered by smaller areas
Photo from http://www.kipas.nl/Textiles/JPG/Langkit3.JPG
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Supplementary Thread Techniques Special threads
inserted into the weft but are made to float over a section of warp threads to form patterns of color and texture contrasting with the ground
Ex. Tingguian blanket
Photo from http://matsysdesign.com/studios/compositebodies/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/tinggian21.jpg
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Checkered Striped patterns Geometric
patterns Colors:
Red Black Blue Yellow Photo from
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9usVSmMBZys/THZPIOpCNJI/AAAAAAAAAbE/2PhH7ShvJHQ/s1600/Cordilleras+166a.jpg
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Gaddang Close winding
lines that simulate pattern of python’s skin
Addition of tiny beads
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Photo from http://www.tribaltextiles.info/community/viewtopic.php?t=1539&view=next&sid=ce90688259ca95e087016cb186e77195
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Tingguian Different motifs of rivers (zigzag pattern),
horse, deer, proud men and twins Present-day motifs are bigger
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Photo from http://matsysdesign.com/studios/compositebodies/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/tinggian41.jpg
Photo from http://matsysdesign.com/studios/compositebodies/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/tinggian11.jpg
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T’boli Zigzag forming
triangles From ancient
tumpal motif of Dongson culture
Crab, python, mythical bird, frog, shield, man in house, geometric motifs Photo from
http://matsysdesign.com/studios/compositebodies/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/iates9811.jpg
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FAK (FROG) SIYUFUN (SCORPION)
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T’boli Bangala design
Hexagons with man with symmetrical arms and legs
Means that “man is secure within his own home”
Photo from http://s2.hubimg.com/u/3113577_f520.jpg
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Bilaan Man, animals,
geometric Human and
crocodile figures so stylized that crocodile-human representation seems to merge
Tumpal = elongated triangles in a row
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Mandaya Traditional dagmay
textile has human figure or that of crocodile
Realistic figures found in ikatfabric, while the more abstract and geometric representations are embroidered on textiles
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“Process of making cloth by means of interlacing a series of parallel longitudinal threads called the warp, at the right angles with another series of lateral threads, called the weft or woof.”
“ Traditionally, the entire process of weaving cloth, for daily use or for ritual, has been the work of women.”
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Major weaving towns: Santa Maria, Santiago, and Vigan in Ilocos
Sur Sarrat and Paoay in Ilocos Norte Bangar in La Union
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Pinilian (meaning chosen) blanket Itneg/Tinguian
blanket Supplementary weft
technique Red, white, and
yellow with startlike motif
Photo from http://philippine-made.blogspot.com/2010/08/pinilian-blanket.html
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Binacol Itneg blanket Mathematically
precise supplementary weft woven cloths
Tradition of optical illusion, achieving a pulsating three-dimensionality two-dimensionally
Photo from http://www.flickr.com/photos/father05/2445252920/
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Ilokano Blanket Woven blanket
possessed by Igorot chieftain = symbol of wealth and prestige
Photo from: http://www.reflectionsofasia.com/_borders/Igorot_Blanket___Large_small.jpg
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Tapis Wraparound cloth for
skirt Standard wear for
women Ifugao, Bontoc,
Kankanay, Ibaloy, Tinguian, Isneg, and Gaddang Photo from
http://collections.burkemuseum.org/ethnology/WebImages/Burke/large/0000265685.jpg
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G-string Loincloth Standard
wear for men
Photo from http://www.flickr.com/photos/ayeona/1157387835/
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Piña Cloth Leaves of
pineapple plant Suffered decline
until discovered by haute couture
Cloth for tailoring, handkerchiefs, napkins, altar linen Photo from
http://www.divamanila.se/sites/default/files/images/pina/Pineapple-fiber-extraction.jpg
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Pinukpok cloth Similar to Piña cloth Woven from banana fiber Pounded to make more pliant
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Hablon Miagao, Iloilo Means ‘weave’ Silk + cotton Produces a
gloss smooth textile for clothing
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Cotton Patadyong Miagao, Iloilo Less ornate and
shorter than Maranaomalong
With stripes of contrasting color
Complemented with kimona
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OTHER WOVEN ITEMS Blankets
Workmanship well-known in Carcar, Cebu Woven on frame looms called habol
Pillowcases Mosquito nets
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Malong Woven by Maranao
and Maguindanao Large wrap-around
cloth Sewn together
lengthwise along the edges to form squares
Cotton or silk
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Malong Versatile garment For men and women tubular garment
Maguindanaomalong recurring designs,
sometimes with supplementary weft
Every day wear: usually plaids or stripes
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Malong Simple malong=
simple bands of alternating colors
Special occasions= silk and decorated with gold thread to form stylized tree of life designs
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Malong Women: tie it around upper chest or knot it
around one shoulder Men: knot around waist
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Purposes of Malong Shields body for
rituals Childcare Hammock for
injured “Umbrella” Blanket Sack for food Curtain
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TYPES: Landapmalong
Used for ceremonial occasions
one solid color or two alternating colors
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Landapmalong Langkit = band separately woven in
tapestry weave Lakban Tobiran
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Andonmalong Ikatmotifs in warp and
weft techniques Geometric motifs (stars,
circles, etc.) between checks or stripes
Babalodan Rare kind of malong Floral geometric
designs Kepala = central area
of babalodan
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OTHER GROUPS: Yakan
Multicolored scarves and belts T’boli Mandaya Bagobo Tausug
Kandit =colorful waistcloth Pis = headcloth
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Spanish Occupation New traditions of
clothing and tailoring textiles
Bordadoras (embroiderers) emerged in Malate and provinces
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Barong Tagalog Maria Clara
Use of fine transparent material like jusi or piña
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Calado Fine open-work
combined with solid areas of design
Photo from http://www.artesdelasfilipinas.com/archives.php?page_id=40
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“…the art of fashioning containers by weaving, plaiting or braiding organic materials from leaves, vines, midribs, and holes into hollow three-dimensional shapes that fuse design and function.”
“…reflects its social matrix, the tropical environment, and the occupations of the
folk that draw from the resources of land, river, and sea.”
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Mediates man and nature Motifs symbolize man as a part of nature
and someone who shares the common vitality of all living forms
Found in many lowland provinces Pangasinan – “province of basket-weavers” Other places: Laoag, Ilocos Norte,
Zambales in Luzon; Islands of Samar and Romblon in Visayas; Maranao and Maguindanao in Mindanao
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Bamboo Gathered from dense
groves Cut and split into
strips for weaving Outer skin acquires a
yellow sheen as it ages
“has a finesse and purity, combined with resilience and strength
Taken from http://world.mongabay.com/tagalog/travel/files/p7275p.html on August 20,2012
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Coconut midribs Strong structure Used to reinforce
other materials
Taken from http://shootandscootph.blogspot.com/2012/01/10th-national-coconut-festival.html on August 20, 2012
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Buri palm and anahaw Large leaves Dried and flattened
to make the basket
Taken fro
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taken from http://www.neda.gov.ph/knowledge-emporium/default.asp?offset=360on August 20, 2012
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Vines Dark nito and
reddish sigid Valued for strength
and decorative potential
Dark tones are contrasted with lighter toned materials
taken from http://dipologcity.com/nitoweavinginsert.htmon August 20, 2012
taken from http://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/PH/all-kinds-of-vines.htmlon August 20, 2012
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Rattan and Pandanus leaf
Other materials: banban plant, silong-pugo
taken from http://www.thepinoywarrior.com/2011/01/rattan-pinoy-warriors-vine.htmlon August 21, 2012
taken from http://www.mypandan.com/on August 21, 2012
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Alternating inner and outer skin (for light and dark contrast)
Use of different materials Use of geometric designs Use of natural dyes by the Maranao
and the Maguindanao
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Carrying Storing Trapping
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Bilao carrying basket for
winnowing rice
taken from http://markg87.net/my-heart-is-being-crashed/on August 21, 2012
taken from http://www.flickr.com/photos/elmer_ng_pateros/1572658387/on August 21, 2012
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Pasiking Cordillera backpack
taken from http://www.richardgervaiscollection.com/collection/details/41/2/basketry/bontoc-backpack-basket.htmlon August 21, 2012ta
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Labba Ilocano basket
Koppit Bontoc basket Contains several
close-fitting sections
taken from http://www.reflectionsofasia.com/ladies_labba.htmon August 21, 2012
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taken from http://pages.morethanmccoy.com/8731/PictPage/1922615199.htmlon August 21, 2012
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Salakab used to catch fish in
rice paddies made of bamboo
stakes curving out from a single node of bamboo
taken from http://halamanansahalang.blogspot.com/2008/10/salakab.htmlon August 21, 2012
taken fro
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Agawen Ifugao basket Used for trapping
snails
taken from http://www.spurlock.illinois.edu/search/index.php?q=2007.15&Search=Searchon August 21, 2012
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Tiruray baskets from Cotabato Geometric motifs
with contrasting colors
Motifs could also include human figures
These images were taken from http://class.csueastbay.edu/anthropologymuseum/virtmus/Philippines/Crafts/Tiruray_basketry.htmon August 21, 2012
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Bagobo baskets Simple and
functional Personal bags often
have tiny bells and multicolored beads
taken from http://www.seasite.niu.edu/Tagalog/Cynthia/Mindanao/ethnolingusticgroups.htmon August 21, 2012
taken from http://www.richardgervaiscollection.com/collection/details/320/2/basketry/bagobo-tribe-basket.htmlon August 21, 2012
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“The art of weaving or plaiting strips of organic fibers into mats.”
“Our mat tradition will attest to the artistry and the superb skills required to accomplish the intricacy evident in this woven works of art.”
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Sleeping mats Drying grain or copra Floor mats or rugs Tablecloths & placemats
Advantages: cool, light, portable, space-savers
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Used to be a medium of exchange & barter
More ornate mats are made for wedding rituals & other festive occasions
Southern weavers make them for prayer mats or household decor
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Traditionally woven by women Process can take several weeks to
accomplish Example: pandan plant
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19th – 20th Century Made to order by families and individuals Used as gifts at special occasions
(weddings, birthdays ect) Commemorative mats bore letters &
names, often with floral or geometric borders
21st Century Mats easily bought at native stores &
itinerant woman vendors
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Work of women Ornate Mats = status symbols /
decadent gifts Often given during special occasions for
high value of mats (ex. value of Tinalak = house)
Occupy special place in home (ex. altar, wall hangings, etc. )
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White buri mats Lacelike design
on the edges Used during
weddings; newlyweds dance on the mat while relatives try to pin money on their clothes
Taken from gutenberg.org on August 22, 2012
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Made from tikog sedge &buri palm
Bright colors Embroidered
flowers, peacocks, imaginary scenes
May carry the image and name of maker if commissioned
Taken from members.virtualtourist.com on August 22, 2012
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Photo from http://gerryruiz.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/70711baseymatweaversw-7045.jpg
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Photo from http://callezaragosa.com/gerryruizphotoblog/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/70711BaseyMatWeaversE2W-7059.jpg
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Sesed mats Done in stripes and plaids Use an instrument called
agita to flatten and smooth sisid leaf
Taken from ourrestlessfeet.com on August 22, 2012
Taken from bohol.ph on August 22, 2012
Taken from buyantiquesandarts.weebly.com on Aug 23, 2012
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Noted for workmanship& production of uniform strand
Taken from homeworks-edsci.blogspot.comon August 22, 2012
Taken from article.wn.com on August 22, 2012
Plain brown mats woven over with beige geometric decorations
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Displays bolder and freer use of color and concepts
Taken from ironwulf.net on Aug 23, 2012
Taken from bahay-kubo.orgon Aug 23, 2012
Plain, soft-brown in color
Commonly used in Manila
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Taken from colloidfarl.blogspot.com on Aug 23, 2012
More restrained and disciplined approach to design
Technically excellent
Highly pliable Uniform strand
length Durable due to tight
weave
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Taken from digitaleducation.net on Aug 23, 2012
Intricate geometric designs
Double ply (coarse undecorated base and fine colored surfacing
Oho mats Used for rituals
outside houseTaken from bohol.ph on August 22, 2012
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Multicolored stripes/squares, zigzag pattern, or two-color checks
Have exceptional pliability, fineness, smoothness & sheen
Serve as wall hangings
Taken from pacificbasinservices.com Aug 23, 2012
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