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I INSTITUTE

OF TECHNOLOGY

*RESEARCH - ' ....

REPORT •••.. ''•

I

I DEVELOPMENT OF PATTERNS ANDCLOTHING PROTOTYPES FOR

NAVY WOMEN'S DRESS UNIFORMSU

Fashaion Institute of Technology

EIT* JAAMTD

I" L, /'t{ . .• .. ' :, A ' ••rq"J\.. .

Di;•ril~utianr jl~lfii:,,;,,.-d

DLA900-87-D-0016/0005 APRIL 1991

91-05791~~91 7t 2 0 04 .. ... ........A ;•=luill~l',' I 'Im ,!

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UNCLASSIFIEDPVjCO1 to DL4900-87-D-OOlb

REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGEIa. RkPOAT si.cuRirY Cc-A1sisb AION Iti. A$STRICTIVE AARKING$

Upclassified None2a. $IC4RiTY CLASSIACANON ,,UTHOitkY " ISTRI'UTION/IAAII.A91JTY 90 REPORT

Unclassified2b. OC•LCASIFICATION I O0WNGGPAING SIEOULL Distribution Unlimited

4. PERFORMING ORGANI.ZATION REPORT NUMBERCS) S. MONITORING ORGANIZATION REPORT NUMBER(S)

F.I.T. Delivery Order 0005/Final64. NAME Of PER•ORMING ORGANIZA•ION 6b OFFICE SymbOL 7. NAME OF MONITORING ORGAniZATiON

Eucational Foundation for (Itappicabl) DLA Manufacturing Engineering/Researchthe Fashion Industries J Office (DME/RO)

Ge- ADDRESS (Cicy Staf. and ZIPCod) 7b. ADDRESS (0t State. and ZIP C=4.)

227 West 27 Street Cameron Station (Room 4B195)New York, NY 10001 Alexandria, VA 22304-6100

54. NAME OF FUNDING/SPON5ORING $b. OFFICE SYMBOL, 9. PROCUREMENT INSTRUMENT IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

ORCANIZATION (If applicable)

Defense Logistics Agency DME/RO DLA900-87-D-0016/0005Se. ADDRESS (Cty. State. brid ZIP Code) 16, SOURCE OF FUNDINGS NUMOERtS

Caeo tto Ro B9)PROGRAM PROJECT TASK WORK UNIT

Alexandria, VA 22304-6100 ELEMENT NO. . . .. =--.SiON NC78001 S - - -

11. TITLE (InrJude Socurmy Caficatron) (U) Development of Patterns and Clothing Prototypes forNavy Women's Dress Uniforms

12. PURSONAý. AUTHOR(S)

Hilde Jaffe13a. -iYPE OF REPORT 1Ii3b. TIME COVERED) 14. OATE OF REPORT (Year,.MlOntdiDay) F77 PG-ECOUN7

FINAL I FROM 89t._c 08 .13 91/01 91/04/3016. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTATION

COSATi CODES is., SUBJECT TERMS (Corrdrue an tvvdru4 df AtCesury jnd denotl by block rnirnber)FliLD GROUP SUB-GOUP (U) Apparel, (U) Navy, (U) Women, (U) Uniforms,15 05 (U) Manufacturing, (U) Cost, (U) Production, (U) Patterns

19 ABSTRACT (Coftnug on rqina if nric~anry JitA JalOýI by block number)

Multifaceted analyses of the dimensions, components, and manufacturing technologieswere conducted on the five U.S. Navy women's dress uniform parts in order to create newpatterns and garment prototypes using recently developed anthropometric data. Inherentin these efforts were the needs to improve the fit of these uniform components, modifythe construction to permit easier and less costly alterations when necessary, and makethe garments capable of being mass produced by advanced technology methods. All of theseobjectives were accomplished without changing the current design or appearance of thegarments.

20 OiSTiwIIijON IAVApLAEVTY Of ASSTRACT 21. AISTRACT SEiCURITY CLASSIFIC.ATIONI UNCLASSIOIEDilJNLIMITE-Z 0 SAME4 AS APT, C]OTIC USE Fm (U) UNCLASSIFIED424. NAME OF RESPONSIBLE INDIVIDUAL 22tb TELEiPNONE (1nch., Aria COO4 22C. OFFICE SYWO.48.

nry A. Seesselberg ' (212) 760-7410O FORM, 1473, u *31, ,Ftf, ,CLASSIFID " ?

Ail ather editionls sit obslwa UNCLASSIFIED

IIi

i ADVANCED APPAREL MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY

i FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

DLA900-87-D-0016-0005

I .: . .. " . . , *, . V

i

II

DEVELOPMENT OF PATTERNS AND CLOTHING PROTOTYi'ES

FOR

NAVY WOMEN'S DRESS UNIFORMS

FINAL TECHNICAL REPORT A008IHilde Jaffe

Project Leader

I MARCH 19, 1991

The project has been sponsored by theDefense Logistics Agency

Cameron StationAlexandria, VA 22304-6145

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Navy Women's Dress Uniforms

PREFACE

In 1988 and 1989 the U.S. Navy conducted an anthropometricstudy of its female personnel. The resulting data was analyzedand it showed that considerable changes had occurred in thebody measurements of U.S. Navy women since the previous datacollection. The patterns for the production of women's dressuniforms, however, were sLill based on Lhe old anthropometricdata, explaining why zo many uniforms did not fit properly,and why, far too often, they required extensive alterationsto fit the women to whom they were issued.

In order to reduce the number, extent, and cost of thesealterations, it was decided that new patterns aid samples ofNavy women's dress uniforms should be constructed based onth2 new anthropometric data. These patterns and samples couldthen be used as the prototypes for future procurements in theopen market.

At the same time, it was noted that in recent years changes hadoccurred in the U.S. apparel manufacturing industry which hada negative impact on production, cost, and availability ofwomen's dress uniforms. The number of U.S. manufacturerswilling and/or able to produce these garments in strict accor-dance with the applicable specifications had dwindled. Atthe same time, labor and overhead costs had escalated whilethe work force had steadily declined in numbers and skilllevels. Manufacturers of items similar to women's dress uni-forms but which are sold instead into the civilian markethac. successfully alleviated or circumvented some of the pro-duction problems. They had done this by making judiciouschanges in their components and manufacturing techniques thatmore readily interfaced with the use of semi- or fully-auto-matic production equipment. If a similar approach was takento the problem that faced the U.S. Navy in the procurement ofwomen's dress uniforms, especially if combined with state-of-the-art manufacturing guidelines for distribution to futuremanufacturers, it was thought that many of those problemscould be eliminated.


With all of the foregoing in mind, the Advanced Apparel Manu-facturing Department at the Fashion Institute of Technology(AAMTD/F.I.T.) proposed that new Navy women's dress uniformpatterns and prototypes be developed that more adequately metthe fit and production requirements of contemporary uniforms

I for the U.S. Navy. These new patterns and prototypes wereto be based on the new U.S. Navy women's body measurementsfurnished by NCTRF (Navy Clothing and Textile Research Faci-lity), and they were to be developed in accordance with im-proved manufacturing methods, incorporating the applicationof advanced manufacturing technology.

It was our expressed intention that the distinctive design

features of the Navy women's dress uniforms would not bechanged except for approved modification that might be requiredfor improved fit and/or more easily accomplished alterations.

Late in August, 1989, we were awarded the contract to proceedwith the project.

April 30, 1991 "kiLiv<J\W

Proj'ect a

I

I

I ii

I

n Navy Women's Dress Uniforms

III

This research report is the result of work performedunder sponsorship of the Fashion Institute of Technology andthe United States Department of Defense, Defense LogisticsAgency (Contract DLA900-87-D-0016). It's contents are theproperty of the Educational Foundation for the Fashion In-dustries and may not be reproduced or used without written

n permission.

It is hereby submitted to the DLA office (DPMSO),Cameron Station, Alexandria, VA 22304-6100 in accordance withthe Contract Data Requirements List, sequence A008.

N ~/ /

I nryA.• •sesselberg

"Dire tor, Advanced AppaielMan~acturing Technology ProgramsIFashion Institute of Technology

I Noah BrinnerI Research Coordinator

II

I

II

I Navy Women's Dress Uniforms

I ACKNOWLEDGFDONTS

The project leader wishes to express her sincere appreciationto the following people and organizations for their assistance,advice, counsel, and help in the completion of this project.

Joseph CaffarelliFemale personnel at U.S. Naval Training Station,

Orlando, FL

Gerber Garment Technology, Inc.

Bernard Holzman

Jackie Evans, Inc.

W.E. Johnson, Cmdr., U.S.N.

Lita Konde

3 Josef Korngruen

Mario Lupia

Ben Martin

Sirvart Mellian

Laura Nugent

Frank Orlando

Pat & Rose Dresses, Inc.

I Rose Rosa

Rosario Sportswear, Inc.

Vincent Saladini

Wallace Sloves

Cassandra Williams

I Harry Winer

Wolf Model Forms, Inc.

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INavy Women's Dress Uniforms

TABLE. OF CONTENTS

PREFACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ..... ............... . . . . . . . .iii

TABLE OF CONTENTS ................ ..................... iv

1.0 INTRODUCTION ............... . . . ........ 1

1.1 THE PROJECT BACKGROUND ......... ............. 1

1.1.1 Pattern Changes ...... . . . . . . . . . . 1

1.1.2 Manufacturing Changes.. . . . . . . . . . .. ... 1

1.2 SCOPE ..................... ..................... 1

1.3 OBJECTIVES ............................... . 2

1.4 MATERIALS FURNISHED BY NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILERESEARCH FACILITY (NCTRF) ...... ......... .. 2

2.0 PROJECT PERSONNEL ................. . 2

2.1 PRINCIPAL INVESTIGATORS ......... ............. 3

2.2 FACULTY CONTRIBUTORS ................. 3

2.3 OTHER PARTICIPANTS ........ ............... 4

2.4 STUDENTS ..................................... 4

3.0 F.I.T. EQUIPMENT SUPPORT ......... ............ 5

4.0 DESIGN MODIFICATIONS .......................... 5

4.1 PROTOTYPE GARMENTS ........................... 5

4.1.1 Women's Blue Dress Coat (Figure I) ........ 6

4.1.2 Women's Blue Dress Skirt (Figure II) ...... a

4.1.3 Women's Blue Dress Slacks (Figure III) ... ..... 10

4.1.4 Women's White Belted Skirt (Figure IV) ..... 12

4.1.5 Women's White Belted Slacks (Pigure V) .... 14

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I 4.2 GARMETIT SIZES ................. 16

4.3 PATTERNS ............................ 18

I 4.4 DESCRIPTION OF MANUFACTURING METHODS AND SEQUENCES . 19

4.4.1 Women's Blue Dress Coat .... ............. .. 20

4.4.2 Women's Blue Dress Skirt .... ............. .. 29

4.4.3 Women's Blue Dress Slacks ..... ............. . 37

4.4.4 Women's White Belted Skirt ... ............ .. 45

I 4.4.5 Women's White Belted Slacks .. ........... .. 54

4.5 ADOPTIONS AND ADAPTATIONS .... ........... .. 63

APPENDIX I: PATTERN NUTMBER DIRECTORY (MODEL FILES) . . 64

APPENDIX II: MAGNETIC PATTERN TAPE LOG (PATTERN POSI-TIONS) ................................... 116

APPENDIX III: RESEARCH SCHEDULE TASK REVIEWS - A CHRON-OLOGY ................................... 125

IUIiIIiI vi

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1.0 INTRODUCTION.

1.1 THE PROJECT BACKGROUND.

1.1.1 Pattern Changes. Prompted by the persistent fittingproblems of U.S. Navy uniforms for its female population, ananthropometric study was conducted by the Navy Clothing andTextile Research Facility (NCTRF) to determine new body meas-urement standards for apparel sizing. The new anthropometricdata that was collected revealed that considerable changeshad occurred in the body dimensions of its female personnelover the years since the last survey had been conducted.

As a result of the anthropometric study, a new sizing systemhas been developed by NCTRF. This new system takes intoconsideration the proportional differences of women, as wellas the general gradations of measurements from small to large.

The need was thus established for the development of a groupof better-fitting uniforms which must retain the basic styleof the current garments, but provide better fit and need fewerand simpler, if any, alterations.

1.1.2 Manufacturing Changes. During the intervening yearsbetween the anthropometric studies, innovative moves towardadvanced technology in manufacturing methods have been madeby the civilian apparel industry. The manufacture of U.S.Navy women's dress uniforms according to current specifica-tions, however, does not take advantage of these innovationsthat effectively reduce production time and skill require-ments throughout the manufacturing cycle. As a result,procurement problems have developed as the number of apparelproducers who are able and/or willing to produce the dressuniforms according to the strict and, in some cases, techno-logically outdated manufacturing specifications has decreased.

The Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.) proposed thatthe new prototype garments that were to be developed shouldbe modified to take advantage of modern manufacturing methods,and that improved production equipment and procedures, incor-porating the application of advanced technology, should berecommended for use.

I 1.2 SCOPE.

The project required the development of new patterns andclothing prototypes bast-d on the recently collected anthropo-metric data, the grading of initial pruLotypet iiito the uom-

I1

iI

Navy Women's Dres', Uniforms

plete size ranges as proposed by NCTRF, and the delineationof ad! anced technology, as well as conventional production Iprocedures, for the following five Navy women's dress uni-forms, as identified by the appropriate Military Specifica-tions.

- Coat, Woman's, Blue, Dress (MIL-C-29124)- Skirt. Woman's. Blue. Dress (MIL-S-29122)- Slacks, Woman's, Blue, Dress (MIL-S-41825)- Skirt, Woman's, Belted (MIL-S-87053)- Slacks, Woman's. Belted (MIL-S-87054)

1.3 OBJECTIVES.

Upon completion, the project was to result in:

- Better fitting garments;- The need for fewer alterations; I- Lower alteration costs;- Increased number of potential manufacturers; and,-Lower production costs.

1.4 MATERIALS FURNISHED BY NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILERESEARCH FACILITY (NCTRF).

NCTRF supplied the following materials to F.I.T.:

- Body Measurement Tables for Navy Women's Sizing Systems;- One sample garment of each of the five Navy women's dress iuniform items manufactured according to current Military Spe-cifications;- Blue Polyester/Wool Tropical fabric for fabricating theblue dress coats, skirts, and slacks;- White Texturized Polyester fabric for fabricating the belt-ed skirts; and, I- White Polyester/Cotton Twill fabric for fabricating thebelted slacks.

2.0 PROJECT PERSONNEL.

The project team consisted of personnel from the FashionInstitute of Technology who acted as principal investigatorsand contributors, each in his or her area of expertise; con-sultants, currently active in the apparel industry who con-tributed unique professional inputs; and, F.I.T. students who iworked as models and as assistants to the principal investi-gators.

2I


2.1 PRINCIPAL INVESTIGATORS.

Hilde Jaffe, Professor, Fashion Design Department-ApparelArea. Ms. Jaffe acted as project leader and was the principalliaison between F.I.T./AAMTD and NCTRF. She supervised allaspects of the project and prepared the required reports.She also participated in the development of patterns, theinspection and measuring of prototypes, and was the F.I.T./AAMTD representative at all fit tests.

Lita Konde, Associate Professor, Fashion Design Department-Apparel Area. Ms. Konde acted as the principal pattern de-signer on the project. She draped the initial patterns on

dress forms and participated in all fit tests.

Josef Korngruen, Adjunct Assistant Professor, Apparel Produc-tion Management Department. Mr. Xorngruen was the project'sproduction engineer and supervised the manufacture of all theproject-required garments after the initial prototypes werecompleted. He was responsible for the development of theproduction sequences with recommendations for equipment,incorporating both advanced technology and the more conven-tional manufacturing methods. He also worked with Prof. Jaffein the inspection, measuring, and labeling of the prototype

* garments.

Cassandra Williams, Instructor, Patternmaking TechnologyDepartment. As the pattern grader assigned to the project,Ms. Williams developed the grade rules, graded the initialpatterns, and developed markers for all prototypes on theGerber Accu-Mark 300 System according to the new anthropo-metric data supplied by NCTRF. In the final phase of theproject, Ms. Williams also supervised the conversion of allpattern data from the Gerber Accu-Mark 300 System magnetictape to the Gerber AM-5 System magnetic tape.

Joseph Caffarelli, Adjunct Instructor, Fashion Design Depart-ment-Apparel Area. Mr. Caffarelli was responsible for thetailoring of the initial Navy Blue Dress Coat prototype. Healso supervised the construction of the other initial proto-types that were developed.

2.2 FACULTY CONTRIBUTORS.

In October, 1989, with the project already under way for almosttwo months, and with less than ten months left to complete allthe required activities, IICTRF requested that the activitiesbe accelerated so as to complete them two months sooner. Inan effort to accommodate this request it became necessary to

* 3

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Navy Women's Dress Uniforms.

augment the research team with more people. The followingmembers of the Fashion Institute of Technology faculty helpedthe principal investigators to maintain a constant flow ofwork throughout the early stages of the project.

Mario Lupia, Assistant Professor, Fashion Design Department-Apparel Area, participated in the conversion of the muslintoiles (models) into hard paper patterns for production ofthe initial prototypes.

Wallace Sloves, Associate Professor, Fashion Design Depart-ment-Apparel Area, assisted in the draping of the initialNavy Blue Dress Coat patterns.

Rose Rosa, Assistant Professor, Fashion Design Department-Apparel Area, assisted in the conversion of the muslin toilesinto hard paper patterns.

Vincent Saladini, Adjunct Assistant Professor, Menswear Design Iand Marketing Department, worked with Mr. Korngruen in delin-eating the production sequences for the manufacture of theNavy Blue Dress Coat prototype.

Laura Nugent, Classroom Assistant, Apparel Production Manage-ment Department, completed the final checking of the magnetic Ipattern tapes when Ms. Williams became ill during the final

phase of the project.

2.3 OTHER PARTICIPANTS. IThe services of other participants, all successful profes-sionals in the apparel industry, were also utilized to ensure Iconformance with prevailing industry practices.

Frank Orlando, Grading Systems Manager, Abe Schrader, Corp.,worked closely with Cassandra Williams double-checking thegrade rules throughout the grading process.

Bernard Holzman, Designer/owner, Harve Benard, Ltd., assistedthe primary project team in the development of the secondversion of the Navy Blue Dress Coat.

Ben Martin, Tailor/patternmaker and partner, 5th Avenue Clas-sics, consulted with the members of the project team in makingpattern adjustments required for mass production.

2.4 STUDENTS.

Studer.tt enrolled in the Fashion Design, Patternmaking, andMarketing programs at F.I.T. assisted the project staff in

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1 Navy Women's Dress Uniforms

digitizing patterns into the computer and helped otherwisethroughout the grading process. Several of them also servedas models for the fit tests of the garments that were conduc-ted at F.I.T.

3.0 F.I.T. EQUIPMENT SUPPORT.

The Fashion Institute of Technology provided laboratory spaceand equipment for the development of all of the garment pat-terns and prototypes. The F.I.T./AAMTD Center was utilizedthroughout all phases of the project, including:

- Patternmaking;Grading;

- Cutting;- Sewing;- Pressing; and,- Inspection.

4.0 DESIGN MODIFICATIONS.

4.1 PROTOTYPE GARMENTS.

A total of 300 prototype garments were produced and sent to theU.S. Navy Training Center in Orlando, Florida for fit testing.The garments consisted of:

60 Women's Blue Dress Coats;60 Women's Blue Dress Skirts;60 Women's Blue Dress Slacks;

60 Women's White Belted Skirts; and,60 Women's White Belted Slacks.

The following descriptions and sketches illustrate the designmodifications incorporated in the prototypes developed byF. I.T./AAMTD.

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4.1.1 Women's Blue Dress Coat (Figure I).

- The princess seam was moved approximately 3/8 inch towardthe side seam.

- The dart at the side front was eliminated.

- A more shapely shoulder pad was used (BRB Industries, #1016,plus 2). I- Sleeve cap and armhole were reshaped.

- Side and shoulder Leams were re-positioned.

- A one-inch seam allowance was provided on the side seam.

- All seams other than the side seam were provided with a 5/8inch seam allowance.

- Woven fusible interfacing was used in all appropriate areas(Crown Textile Company, #451/190B 66 Bleached). I- The coat has an easier fit, and is not quite as close tothe body as is the traditional one. This provides for theaccommodation of more idiosyncracies of the human body andallows for more freedom of movement.

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Navy Uomen's Dress Uniforms

FIGURE I: WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS COAT

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Navy Womcn's Dress Uriforms I

4.1.2 Women's Blue Dress Skirt (Fioure III.

- An elastic section (Paramount Trimming, #1036) was insert-ed in the back of the waistband in order to make the waistbandmore comfortable and to accommodate differences in waistlinecircumferences of at least +/- 3/4 inch.

- The skirt silhouette was kept slim, with only slight flare 3provided for walking ease. This provides harmony with theeasier fit of the dress coat.

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III Naevy Women's Dress Uniforms

I FIGURE II: WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS SKIRT

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Navy Womtn's Dress Uniforms U4.1.3 Women's Blue Dress Slacks (Figure III).

- The slacks were designed to lie flat over the hips withmost of the shaping at the back of the figure. The newanthropometric data suggested that the thighs of Navy femalepersonnel were relatively heavy. By giving more room for thelegs at the back we were able to maintain a flatteringly slimsilhouette that, nevertheless, allowed comfortable room formovement.

- Extra seam allowance was provided at the center back, andthe waistband was split so that waistline alteration, if nec-cessary, could be accomplished with ease.

- The legs are slightly tapered, but the general effect isof a straight, trim trouser.

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FIGURE III: WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS SLACKS

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Navy Women's Dress Uniforms 1

4.1.4 women's White Belted Skirt (Ficmre IV).

- Elastic (Paramount Trimming, #1036) is inserted in two sec-tions at the back of the skirt waistband to allow for varia-tions of waistline measurements.

- The silhouette of this comfortable skirt is essentiallyslim, with a slight flare for walking ease. Elimination of Ithe simulated flat felled side seams also contributes to thesofter drape of the skirt.

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FIGURE IV: WOMEN'S WHITE BELTED SKIRT

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4.1.5 Women's White Belted Slacks (Figure V).

- These slacks have been re-designed so that the basic shapeis similar to the shape of the Blue Dress Slacks. I- The generous center back seam allowance and split waistbandconstruction also offer ease of alteration where required.

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FIGURE V: WOMEN'S WHITE BELTED SLACKS

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1INavy Women's Dress U~niforms i

4.2 GARMENT SIZES.I

All garments were made in the sizes as in-dicated in Figure VI. IIIIIII

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Navy Women's Uress Uniforms

FIGURE VI: GARMENT SIZES

31 I JuVN IOR REGULAR W OMEN' a

4 RXGULAA X

4 TALL u ___n_

6 T j IP I x

6 REGULTAR x _ _

6 TALL I I

SPETITE X _ X

I SRZEGUILAR _ x 1a TALL x j

I 1 PETITE X x I X

l1.REGULAR x x I

10 TALL x I ___

16 PETITE x x "

12 REGULAR x x z

12 TALL x 2 I

14 PETZTE x x

14 REGULAR x x

14 TALL x I

1 PETZTZ x18 REGULAR z x

18 TALL z

20 P~ETITE x ________

20 REGULAR x

20 TALL .

1.7


4.3 PATTERNS.

Since the Gerber AM-5 system installations at F.I.T. are invirtually continuous use by students, the original patternsthat had been developed manually were digitized into the GerberAccu Mark 300 system for grading according to the data providedby NCTRF. Subsequently, markers for cutting the prototypeswere also generated by the Accu Mark system. The Accu Marktape of all graded patterns was then converted to Gerber AM-5system magnetic tape for delivery to NCTRF as required by thecontract.

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4.4 DESCRIPTION OF MANUFACTURING METHODS AND SEQUENCES.

The Construction Sequences and Method Descriptions for theNavy Women's Dress Uniform items which follow are recommen-dations, not approved specifications. The charts list manu-facturing methods in their operational sequence. There wasno attempt made to describe how to perform the operationsnor has any attempt been made to spec them out.

Women's uniform manufacturers should be able to utilize orupgrade to the several levels cf construction methods describedon the following pages. There is no one best way to manufac-ture these garments. Manufacturers will have to decide whichcombination of mechanized sewing, pressing, and in-processmaterial handling systems best suit their overall productionplans.

The project team can only make future manufacturers aware ofthe possibilities and the benefits that can be gained whenadvanced apparel manufacturing technologies are used. Allequipment and the methods described in the attached chartshave been tested on actual garments under coastruction. Onlyoff-the--shelf, readily available equipment is recommended andis expected to offer a reasonable retuirn on investment.Automatic waistband setters, although not discussed in therecommendations, have good potential application for skirtsand slacks. As regards automatic Yabel feeders, they arecostly additions to programmable tac'•ers that have to be ableto handle a variety of label sizes and thicknesses. Based onthe project personnel's experience, the Pulwell, or a similarlabel separator, is a simple gadget that costs only a fractionof what the automatic label feeders cost, and it can pay foritself in only a few weeks.

The Navy Women's Dress Uniform garments that were developed inthis project lend themselves very well to a Unit ProductionSystem. However, different manufacturers wiill probably loadtheir systems at different points in the production cycle.The device developed by the Clemson Apparcl Research Centerthat automatically replaces the garment parts into the carriersshould also be considered. This might reduce handling timeand make the Unit Production System even more cost effective.

Our recommendations are not limited to equipment and materialhandling. Other suggested innovations for each garment arealso described.

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4.4.1 Women's Blue Dress Coat. Production of the Women'sBlue Dress Coat is a relatively complex procedure that doesnot lend itself to fully automated sewing equipment. Forexample, operations such as the joining of side seams cannotcurrently be accomplished on automatic side seamers becauseof the curvature of the garment parts. However, this doesnot mean that the dress coat can only be produced by traditi-onal methods. The Construction Sequence and Method DescriptionI, U.S. Navy Women's Blue Dress Coat, shows that the productioncycle can be speeded up considerably with the use of new andimproved pieces of equipment.

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Navy Women's Dress uniforms

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4.4.2 Women's Blue Dress Skirt. This skirt is an easy garmentto produce; see Construction Sequence and Method DescriptionII, U.S. Navy Women's Blue Dress Skirt. The fabrics, bothshell and lining, are stable and can be easily handled byautomatic machinery.

A woven fusible interlining (Crown Textile Company, #451/190B66 BLEACHED) was used for the waistbands of the prototypes.However, for production it is less costly and more efficientto use a non-woven slotted waistband interlining such as Q.S.T.Industries' Edge Control, US121. The distance between therows of slots depends on the design of the waistband. Forthis skirt the rows of slots should be spaced according tothe seam allowance and width of the waistband, 3/8" and I-1/4", respectively.

Using a non-woven slotted waistband interlining eliminates thecutting of this part. Since the pocket welts are also a fixedwidth, the same operation can be eliminated here by using anon-woven fusible interlining, such as produced by Pellon,and slit to the proper width. Both waistband and pocket weltinterlining can then be cut to length on an automatic tapecutter such as Sunbrand Corporation's Ace Strip Cutter, ModelC-150N.

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4.4.3 Women's Blue Dress Slacks. This is the least compli-cated of the five garments developed under this project; seeConstruction Sequence and Method Description III, U.S. NavyWomen's Blue Dress Slacks. The stability of the fabric andthe simplicity of garment design make the use of automatedequipment very desirable. If the recommendation for usingnon-woven slotted waistband interlining, such as Q.S.T. In-dustries' Edge Control, US121, is accepted, the producer onlyneeds to inventory the base fabric for this product. Theonly other component to be cut is the non-slip waistband tape,such as Q.S.T. Industries' Duo Stripe Snug Tex, and that canbe cut on the same tape cutter, such as Sunbrand Corporation'sAce Strip Cutter, Model C-150N, which was described for theWomen's Blue Dress Skirt (sec. 4.4.2).

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4.4.4 Women's White Belted Skirt. This three-gore skirt isthe problem garment of the group; see Construction Sequenceand Method Description IV, U.S. Navy Women's White BeltedSkirt. The fabric drapes well, but is difficult to handle.The shell parts can be serged on an automatic serger, but notthe lining. The tricot knit fabric of the lining tends tocurl at the cut edges and does not present a guidable edge.This means that all the lining parts have to be manuallyserged, a slow and tedious task since the operator has touncurl the edges as the fabric is fed through the sewingmachine. To hem the edges of the zipper slit and vent isequally difficult.

An automatic pocket welter, such as Beisler Pocket WeltingMachine 100/35, can easily handle the welts of this skirt,but cannot handle the pocket bags of the lining fabric. This

requires an extra step in setting and making the pockets. Werecommend that a better, more workable lining fabric be con-sidered. Most likely, the increase in fabric cost will beoffset by a reduction in labor cost.

I The shell fabric of this skirt reacts to heat and, therefore,an allowance has to be built into the waistband length for'the shrinkage that will occur during the fusing process.The feeding systems of the various sewing machines have to becarefully set to avoid stretching and puckering of the shellfabric. The most likely area where this will occur is at thecenter back zipper setting and topstitching.

We also recommend that the belt loops be set with an automaticbelt loop setter, such as Juki's MOL-103P, configured for thejeans-type belt loop. This offers a very good quality stitchand allows rapid performance of this task.

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4.4.5 Women's White Belted Slacs. This garment :,quires moreproduction time than the blue dress slacks; see ConstructionSequence and Method Description V, U.S. Navy Women's WhiteBelted Slacks. The quarter top pockets and front fly addseveral operations. The fabric, however, is stable and pres-ents no sewing problems.

The pockets in our samples were made of self fabric. Thiseliminated the need for separate cutting of pocketing. Italso eliminated the cutting and setting of pocket facing.The reduction in labor operations and the elimination offacings should more than compensate for the differences incost between the pocketing and self fabric. For che waistbandwe recommend the same waistband interlining (Q.S.T. Industries'Edge Control, US121) that was recommended for the other skirtsand slacks.

It is recommended that consideration be given to setting theslack fly on the left side. This would allow the use of theUnion Special fly topstitch machine, which reduces the skillrequired to perform this operation without any reduction inquality.

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62I I


4.5 ADOPTIONS AND ADAPTATIONS.

As of the date of this report, NCTRF had not advised us of anydecisions being reached regarding adoption of the recommendedchanges in the Navy Women's Dress Uniforms. The results of thefit tests at the U.S. Navy Training Center in Orlando, Floridaduring August 1990, indicated a preference for the new stylingby both Navy women and evaluators. There were, however, somefit subjects who preferred the more traditional, close to thebody styling of the garments that were submitted by the NCTRFstaff.

A wear test that would permit women to become accustomed to thelook, the comfort, and the feel of the new uniforms is recom-mended.

We anticipate that the accomplishments of this project will in-fluence the construction, fit and evolving design of allservice uniforms in the future.

63

I avy Womnen's Dr~ess Uniform Appendix !

Im

APPENDIX I: PATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY(MODEL FILES)

I6

U

m Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I

PATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY(MODEL FILES)

SIZE SUMMARY

SREGULAR REGULAR REGUL TAL REGUL-AR PETITE4 R 4 RT 4 RP6 R 6 RT 6 RP

8 R 8 RT 8 RP1 R 10RT 10 RP12 R 12 RT 12 RP14 R 14 RT 14 RP16 R 16 RT 16 RP18 R 18 RT 18 RP20 R 20 RT 20 RP

I WOMEN'S REGULAR WOMEN'S TALL WOMEN'S PETITE6 WR 6 WT 6 WP8 WR 8 WT 8 WPI iWR0 WT 10 WP12 WR 12 WT 12 WP14 WR 14 WT 14 WP16 WR 16 WT 16 Wp18 WR 18 WT 18 WP

JUNIOR -EGULA JUNIOR TALL JUNIOR PETITE10 JR 10 JT 10 JP12 JR 12 JT 12 JP14 JR 14 JT 14 JP16JR 16 JT 16 JP

S165

I

I

Appendix I Navy Women's Dress Uniforms &

PATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY(MODEL FILES) I

STYLE: M-C-29628

NAVY WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS COAT

MASTER SHEET

PIECE NAME CATEGORY DESCRIPTION PCS

SELF1 10 Front 22 11 Side front 2 33 20 Side back 24 21 Center back 25 30 Top sleeve 26 31 Under sleeve 27 12 Front facing 2

10190 8 40 Top collar 110191 9 41 Under collar 2 I10192 10 50 Flap 4Lining

11 10 Front 212 20 Side back 213 21 Center back 2

10196 14 60 Pocket 1 I15 30 Top sleeve 2

Fusible16 31 Under sleeve 2

17 10 Front 218 11 Side front 2

Fusible19 12 Front facing 2

10202 20 40 Top collar 110203 21 41 Under collar 210204 26 50 Pocket flaps 2 n

Markers10 Front buttonhole 111 Front button 1

10207 40 Collar marker 1 I50 Flap marker 1

10209 51 Flap shape 1

66

Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: M-C-29628


REGULAR REGULAR

PO CATEGORY D RPCS

SELF > RRDJKTS10183 1 10 Front 210184 2 11 Side front 210185 3 20 Side back 210186 4 21 Center back 210187 5 30 Top sleeve 210188 6 31 Under sleeve 210189 7 12 Front facing 210190 8 40 Top collar 110191 9 41 Under collar 210192 10 50 Flap 4

LINING > RRDJKTL10193 11 10 Front 210194 12 20 Side back 210195 13 21 Center back 210196 14 60 Pocket 110197 15 30 Top sleeve 210198 16 31 Under sleeve 2

FUSIBLE > RRDJKTF110199 17 10 Front 210200 18 11 Side front 2

FUSIBLE > RRDJKTF210201 19 12 Front facing 210202 20 40 Top collar 110203 21 41 Under collar 210204 26 50 Pocket flaps 2

MARKERS > RRDJKTM10205 10 Front buttonhole 110206 11 Front button 110207 40 Collar marker 110208 50 Flap marker 110209 51 Flap shape 1

67

I

Appendix I Navy Women 0 s Dress Uniforms iPATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY

(MODEL FILES) nSTYLE: M-C-29628


WOMEN'S REGULAR

PIECE NAME CATEGORY DESCRIPTION PCs

SELF > WRDJKTS10183 1 10 Front 210210 2 11 Side front 2 I10211 3 20 Side back 210212 4 21 Center back 210213 5 30 Top sleeve 210214 6 31 Under sleeve 210189 7 12 Front facing 210190 8 40 Top collar 110191 9 41 Under collar 2 I10192 10 50 Flap 4

LINING > WRDJKTL10215 11 10 Front 210216 12 20 Side back 210217 13 21 Center back 210196 14 60 Pocket 110218 15 30 Top sleeve 210219 16 31 Under sleeve 2

FUSIBLE > WRDJKTFI101.99 17 10 Front 210220 18 11 Side front 2

FUSIBLE > WRDJKTF210201 19 12 Front facing 210202 20 40 Top collar 110203 21 41 Under collar 210204 26 50 Pocket flaps 2

MARKERS > use RRDJKTM marker10205 10 Front buttonhole 110206 11 Front button 110207 40 Collar marker 110208 50 Flap marker 110209 51 Flap shape 1

68 I

I

I Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: M-C-29628


JUNIOR REGULAR

PIECE NAME CATEGORY DESCRIETION

SELF > JRDJKTS10183 1 10 Front 210221 2 11 Side front 210222 3 20 Side back 210223 4 21 Center back 210224 5 30 Top sleeve 210225 6 31 Under sleeve 210189 7 12 Front facing 21.0190 8 40 Top collar 110191 9 41 Under collar 210192 10 50 Flap 4

LINING > JRDJKTL10226 11 10 Front 210227 12 20 Side back 210228 13 21 Center Back 210196 14 60 Pocket 110229 15 30 Top sleeve 2S10230 16 31 Under sleeve 2

FUSIBJE > JRDJKTFI10199 17 10 Front 210231 18 11 Side front 2

.EUJT J, > JRDJKTF2i0201 19 12 Front facing 210202 20 40 Top collar 110203 21 41 Under collar 210204 26 50 Pocket flaps 2

MARKERS > use RRUJKTM10205 10 Front buttonhole 110206 11 Front button 110207 40) Collar marker 110208 50 Flap marker 110209 51 Flap shape 1

* 69

IAppendix I Navy Women's Dress Uniforms

PATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY

(MODEL FILES)

STYLE: M-C-29628


REGULAR TALL I

I A CATEGOR DESCRIPTION PCS

SLE > RTDJKTS10232 1 10 Front 2 U10233 2 11 Side front 210234 3 20 Side back 210235 4 21 Center back 2 I10236 5 30 Top sleeve 210237 6 31 Under sleeve 210238 7 12 Front facing 210190 8 40 Top collar 110191 9 41 Under collar 210192 10 50 Flap 4

LINING > RTDJKTL10239 11 10 Front 210240 12 20 Side back 2 I10241 13 23. Center Back 210196 14 60 Pocket 110242 15 30 Top sleeve 210243 16 31 Under sleeve 2

USIBLE > RTDJKTF110244 17 10 Front 2 I10245 18 11 Side front 2

ZiUUJELE > RTDJKTF210246 19 12 Front facing 210202 20 40 Top collar 110203 21 41 Under collar 210204 26 50 Pocket flaps 2

MAKERS > RTDTKTM10247 10 Front buttonhole110248 11 Front button 110207 40 Collar marker 1 I10208 50 Flap marker 110209 51 Flap shape 1

70

I-

WNvy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: M-C-29628

I NAVY WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS COAT

WOMEN'S TALL

IPIEH= CATEGORY CIPIO

SELF > WTDJKTS10232 1 3.0 Front 210249 2 11 Side front 210250 3 20 Side back 210251 4 21 Center back 210252 5 30 Top sleeve 210253 6 31 Under sleeve 210238 7 12 Front facing 210190 8 40 Top collar 110191 9 41 Under collar 210192 10 50 Flap 4

LINING > WTDJKTL10254 11 10 Front 210255 12 20 Side back 210256 13 21 Center back 210196 14 60 Pocket 110257 15 30 Top sleeve 2

10258 16 31 Under sleeve 2

ZFUSIBLE > WTDJKTFI10244 17 10 Front 210259 18 11 Side front 2

FUSIBLE > WTDJKTF210246 19 12 Front facing 210202 20 40 Top collar 110203 21 41 Under collar 210204 26 50 Pocket flaps 2

I MARAE > WTDJKTM10247 10 Front buttonhole 110248 11 Front button 110207 40 Collar marker 110208 50 Flap marker 110209 51 Flap shape 1

71

UI

Appendix I Navy Women's Dress Uniform&


STYLE: M-C-29628


JUNIOR TALL

A CATGORY DESCRIPTION PCS

6 > JTDJKTS10232 1 10 Front 210260 2 11 Side front 2 U10261 3 20 Side back 210262 4 21 Center back 210263 5 30 Top sleeve 2 I10264 6 31 Under sleeve 210238 7 12 Front facing 210190 8 40 Top collar 110191 9 41 Under collar 210192 10 50 Flap 4

L.INING > JTDJKTL10265 11 10 Front 210266 12 20 Side back 210267 13 21 Center back 210196 14 60 Pocket 110268 15 30 Top sleeve 210269 16 31 Under sleeve 2

FUSIBLE > JTDJKTF110244 17 10 Front 210270 18 11 Side front 2

FUSIBLE > JTDJKTF210246 19 12 Front facing 210202 20 40 Top collar 110203 21 41 Under collar 210204 26 50 Pocket flaps 2

MARKERS > JTDJKTM10247 10 Front buttonhole 110248 11 Front button 110207 40 Collar marker 110208 50 Flap marker 110209 51 Flap shape 1

72,

!I

Navy Women's Drews Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: M-C-29628


iPGULAH PETITE

i U > RPDJITS10271 1 10 Front 210272 2 11 Side front 210273 3 20 Side back 210274 4 21 Center back 210275 5 20 Top sleeve 210276 6 31 Under sleeve 210277 7 12 Front facing 210190 8 40 Top collar 1IC191 9 41 Under collar 210192 10 50 Flap 4

LINING > RPDJKTL10278 11 10 Front 210279 12 20 Side back 210280 13 21 Center back 210196 14 60 Pocket 110281 15 30 Top sleeve 210282 16 31 Under sleeve 2

FSIBE > RPDJKTF110283 17 10 Front 210284 18 11 Side front 2

FUSIBLE > RPDJKTF210285 19 12 Front facing 210202 20 40 Top collar 110203 21 41 Under collar 210204 26 50 Pocket flaps 2

MARR > RPDJKTM10286 10 Front buttonhole 110287 11 Front button 110207 40 Collar marker 110208 50 Flap marker 110209 51 Flap shape 1

73

I

Appendix I Navy Uomen's Oress Uniforms IPATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY

(MODEL FILES)

STýYLE: M-C-29628

NAVI WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS COAT

WOMEN'S RPETI7E

SELF > VIPDJKTS10271 1 10 Front 210288 2 11 Side front 210289 3 20 Side back 2 I10290 4 21 Center back 21091 5 30 Top ;leeve 2 I10292 6 31 Under sleeve 210277 7 12 Front facing 210190 8 40 Top collar I10191 9 41 Under collar 210192 10 50 Flap 4 ULINING > WPDJKTL10293 11 10 Front 210294 12 20 Side back 210295 13 23 Cent •r back 210196 14 60 Pocket 110296 15 30 Top sleeve 21.0297 16 31 Under sleeve 2

FUSIBLE > WPDJKTF110283 17 10 Front 210298 18 ! Side fro;nt 2

FUSIBLE > WPDJKTF210285 19 12 Front facing 210202 29 40 Top collar 1 110203 21 41 Under coll:- 210204 26 50 Pocket fl , 2

ARKg•RS > WPDJKTM1028f 10 Front buttonhole 110287 11 Front buttor 1•10207 40 Collar m•:}er 1 I10208 50 FlaV ndrker 1

74

I

1 Navy Women's Dress Unilorms Appendix I

PATTERN NUMBER DIREC:2ORY(MODEL FILES)

STYLE: M-C-29628

INAVY WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS COAT

UTUNIOR PETITE

PIEE A CATEGORY DESCRIPTION PCS

SELF > JPDJKTS10271 1 3.0 Front 210299 2 11 Side front 2102C) 3 20 Side back 210301 4 21 Center back 210302 5 30 Top sleeve 210303 6 31 Under sleeve 210277 7 12 Front facing 210190 8 40 Top collar 1I 10191 9 41 Under collar 210192 10 50 Flap 4

LIIG> JPDJKTL10304 11 10 Front 210305 12 20 Side back 2"10306 13 2. Center back 210196 14 60 Pocket 110307 15 30 Top sleeve 2

r 10308 16 31 Under sleeve 2

FUSIBLE > JPDJKTFI10283 17 10 Front 2.10309 18 11 Side front 2

FUSIBLE > ;IIDJKTF210285 19 12 Front facing 210202 20 40 Top collar 110203 21 41 Under collar 210204 26 50 Pocket flaps 2

tM1AR$LEpS > JPDJKTM1.0286 10 Front buttonhole 110287 11 Front button 110207 40 Collar marker 11,0208 50 Flap marker 12.0209 51 ilap shade

I '75

I

Appendix I Navy Women's Dress Uniforms


(MODEL FILES)

STYLE: MIL-S-29631

NAVY WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS SKIRT

(SIX-GORE SKIRT)

MASTER SHEET

PIECE N4AME CATEGORY DECITO

SELFA 10 Center front panAlB 20 Center back panel

1C 30 Side front panel

2

D 40 Side back panel210004 E 50 Zipper placket 110005 F 60 Pocket welt 210006 G 61 insi~e pocket 210007 H 70 Waistband 1

1oiVING10008 I 60 Pocket lining 2

J 10 Center frnnt panel 1K 20 Center back panel 1L 30 Side front panel 2M 40 Side back panel 2

10013 Q 61 inside pocket lining 2

10014 N F0 Fusible pocket welt 210015 0 70 Waistband 1

10016 P 70 Elastic (waist) 1:0017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

76

III Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: MIL-S-29631

INAVY WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS SKIRT

I (SIX-GORE SKIRT)

REGULAR REGULAR

U N CATEGORY DSCRIPTION PCS

SELF > RRGSKTS10000 A A0 Center front panel110001 B 20 Center back panel1

10002 C 30 Side front panel

10003 D 40 Side back panel210004 E 50 Zipper placket 110005 F 60 Pocket welt 210006 G 61 Inside pncket 210007 H 70 Waistband 1

LINING > RRGSKTL10008 I 60 Pocket lining 210009 J 10 Center front panel 11OU0lO K 20 Center back panel 110011 L 30 Side front panel 210012 M 40 Side back panel 210013 Q 61 Inside pocket lining 2

FUSIBLE > RRGSKTF10014 N 60 Fusible pocket welL 210015 0 70 Waistband 1

TEMPLATES > RRGSKTT10016 P '0 Elastic (waist) 110017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

II

*!7

I

II



STYLE: MIL-S-29631


(SIX-GORE SKIRT)

WOMEN'S REGULAR

EIE NAME CATEGORY DESCRIPTION PCS

SEM > WRGSKTS I10034 A 10 Center front panel10C35 B 20 Center back panel

110036 C 30 Side front panel210037 D 40 Side back panel210004 E 50 Zipper placket 110005 F 60 Pocket welt 210006 G 61 Inside pocket 210007 H 70 Waistband 1

LINING > WRGSKTL10008 I 60 Pocket lining 210038 J 10 Center front panel 110039 K 20 Center back panel 110040 L 30 Side front panel 210041 M 40 Side back panel 210013 Q 61 Inside pocket lining 2

FUSIBLg > WRGSKTF10014 N 60 Fusible pocket welt 2 I10015 0 70 Waistband 1

fMPLAIE > WRGSKTT10016 P 70 Elastic (waist) 110017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

I

I78 IS.. . ... l [ -. . . .. = . .. •lll



STYLE: MIL-S-29631


(SIX-GORE SKIRT)

JUNIOR REGULAR

PIEE_ AM CATEGOpi j2E$CRIPTION PC s

SEL_ > JRGSKTS

10042 A 10 Center front panel110043 B 20 Center back panel110044 C 30 Side front panel210045 D 40 Side back panel210004 E 50 Zipper placket 110005 F 60 Pocket welt 210006 G 61 Inside pocket 210007 H 70 Waistband 1

ILINING > JRGSKTL10008 I 60 Pocket lining 210046 J 10 Center front panel 110047 h 20 Center back panel 110048 L 30 Side front panel 210049 M 40 Side back panel 210013 Q 61 Inside pocket lining 2

FUSIBLE > JRGSKTF10014 N 60 Fusible pocket welt 210015 0 70 Waistband 1

TEMPLAT > JRGSKTT10016 P 70 Elastic (waist) 110017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

79

-A

II_



STYLE: MIL-S-29631


(SIX-GORE SKIRT)

REGULAR TALL

SCATEGORY DESCRIPT ION PCS

SELF > RTGSKTS10018 A 10 Center front panel

10019 B 20 Center back panel110020 C 30 Side front panel210021 D 40 Side back panel210004 E 50 zipper placket 110005 F 60 Pocket welt 2 I10006 G 61 Inside pocket 210007 H 70 Waistband 1

LINING > RTGSKTL10008 I 60 Pocket lining 210022 J 10 Center front panel 110023 K 20 Center back panel 1 I10024 L 30 Side front panel 210025 M 40 Side back panel 210013 Q 61 Inside pocket lining 2

FUSIBLE > RTGSKTF10014 N 60 Fusible pocket welt 210015 0 70 Waistband 1

TPT > RTGSKTT10016 P 70 Elastic (waist) 110017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

II-

80I

__ __ __--__ _ __ _ __ _ _i __ _ __ _I



STYLE: MIL-S-29631


(SIX-GORE SKIRT)

WOMEN' S TALL


SELF > WTGSKTS10074 A 10 Center front panel110075 B 20 Center back panelI 110076 C 30 Side front panel210077 D 40 side back panel210004 E 50 Zipper placket 110005 F 60 Pocket welt 210006 G 61 Inside pocket 210007 H 70 Waistband 1

I LINING > WTGSKTL10008 I 60 Pocket lining 210078 J 10 Center front panel 110079 K 20 Center back panel 110080 L 30 Side front panel 210081 M 40 Side back panel 210013 Q 61 Inside pocket lining 2

FUSIBLE > WTGSKTF10014 N 60 Fusible pocket welt 210015 0 70 Waistband 1

TEMPLATES > WTGSKTT10016 P 70 Elastic (waist) 110017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

* 81

Appendix I Navy Women's Dress Uniforms I


STYLE: MIL-S-29631


(SIX-GORE SKIRT)

JUNIOR TALL_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _I _


SELF > JTGSKES10058 A 10 Center front panel110059 B 20 Center back panel110060 C 30 Side front panel210061 D 40 Side back panel I210004 E 50 Zipper placket 110005 F 60 Pocket welt 210006 G 61 Inside pocket 2100d7 H 70 Waistband 1

LINING > JTGSKTL I10008 I 60 Pocket lining 210062 J 10 Center front panel 110063 K 20 Center back panel 1 I10064 L 30 Side front panel 2J.0065 M 40 Side back panel 210013 Q 61 Inside pocket lining 2

FUSIBLE > JTGSKTF10014 N 60 Fusible pocket welt 210015 0 70 Waistband 1

TMLATE > JTGSKTT10016 P 70 Elastic (waist) 110017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

I

82U

I

|INavy Uome•ils Dress Uniforms Appendix I


(MODEL FILES)

STYLE: MIL-S-29631

I NAVY WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS SKIRT

(SIX-GORE SKIRT)

REGULAR PETITE

IFIECE-NAME CAG DESCRIPTION

SELF > RPGSKTSII 10026 A 10 Center front panel1

i10027 B 20 Center back panel

10028 C 30 Side front panel

210029 D 40 Side back panel210004 E 50 Zipper placket 110005 F 60 Pocket welt 210006 G 61 Inside pocket 210007 H 70 Waistband 1

LINING > RPGSKTL10008 I 60 Pocket lining 210030 J 10 Center front panel 110031 K 20 Center back panel 110032 L 30 Side front panel 210033 M 40 Side back panel 210013 Q 61 Inside pocket lining 2

fU1SIBL > RPGSKTF10014 N 60 Fusible pocket welt 210015 0 70 Waistband 1

TEMPLATES > RPGSKTT10016 P 70 Elastic (waist) 110017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

I

*!8

Appendix I Navy Women's Dress Lniffrms

PATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY(MODEL FILES)I

STYLE: MIL-S-29631

NAVY WOMEN'S BLIE DRESS SKIRT

(SIX-GORE SKIRT)

WOMENIS PETITE

PIECE NAME CASMORy DER1.2ION PC$_I

.LF > WPGSI(TS10066 A 10 Center tront panel110067 B 20 Center back panel 31 1

10068 C 30 Side front panel210069 D 40 Side back panel210004 E 50 Zipper placket 110005 F 60 Pocket welt 210006 G 61 Inside pocket 210007 H 70 Waistband 1

LINING > WPGSKTL 110008 I 60 Pocket lining 210070 J 10 Center front panel 110071 K 20 Center back panel 1 I10072 L 30 Side front panel 210073 M 40 Side back panel 210013 Q 61 Inside pocket lining 2

FUJSIBLE > WPGSKTF10014 N 60 Fusible pocket welt 210015 0 70 Waistband 1

TEMPLATES > WPGSKTT10016 P 70 Elastic (waist) 1 110017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

l

84 _ I

I

Navy W.**n's Dress Uniforms Appendix I

PA'1'rERN NUMBER DIRECTORY(MODEL FILES)

STYLE- t ?IL-S-29631

I NAVY WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS SKIRT

l (SIX-GORE SKIRT)

jil 9zR _kkITE1

SELF > JPGSKTS10050 A 10 Center front panel110051 B 20 Center back panel110052 C 30 Side front panel210053 D 40 Fide back panel210004 E 50 zipper placket 13.0005 F 60 Pocket welt 210006 G 61 Inside pocket 210007 H 70 Waistband 1

LININ > JPGSKTL10008 I 60 Pocket lining 210054 J 10 Center front panel 110055 K 20 Center back panel 110056 L 30 Side front panel 210057 M 40 Side back panel 210013 Q 61 Inside pocket lining 2

JE_ I > JPGSKTF10014 N 60 Fusible pocket welt 210015 0 70 Waistband 1

L > JPGSKTT10016 P 70 Elastic (waist) 110017 R 80 Welt pocket placement 2

* 85

I

I

Appendix ! Navy Women's Dress Uniforms


(MODEL FILES)

STYLE: MIL-S-29630

NAVY WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS SLACKS

(WITH INSIDE POCKET) IMASTER SHEET

IPIECE NAME ýqATEGORY DESCRZPTION PC s

A 10 Right front pant1 B 20 Left front pant

1

C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 Pocket110086 F 50 3/4 waistband 110087 G 60 1/4 waistband 110088 H 70 Zipper facing 1

FUS IBLE10089 I 50 3/4 waistband 110090 J 60 1/4 waistband 1

IIII

I

m



STYLE: MIL-S-29630


(WITH INSIDE POCKET)

REGU•% EGULISELF > RRDPANTS10091 A 10 Right front pant110092 B 20 Left front pantI 110093 C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 Pocket110086 F 50 3/4 waistband

10087 G 60 1/4 waistband

10088 H 70 Zipper facing

FUSIBL > 'RRDPANTF10089 I 50 3/4 waistband10090 J 60 1/4 waistband

IlIIIII 87Im_ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Appendix I Nav.y Women's Dress UniformsI

PATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY(MODEL FILES)I

STYLE: MIL-S-29630



WOMEN' S REGULAR

REEHE CATEGORYg DESCRIPTION PCs

SELF > WRDPAX1TS10094 A 10 Right front pant

10095 B 20 Left front pant110096 C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 PocketI110086 F 50 3/4 waistband110087 G 60 1/4 waistband1I10088 H 70 Zipper facing1

F~JIL > WRDPAI4TF10089 I 50 3/4 waistband1I10090 J 60 1/4 waistband1

I



STYLE: MIL-S-29630

INAVY WOMEN'S BLUE DRESS SLACKS

I (WITH INSIDE POCKET)

JUNIOR REGULAR

IPIECENAME CATEGORY D PCS

SELF > JRDPANTS10082 A 10 Right front pant110083 B 20 Left front pant110084 C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 Pocket110086 F 50 3/4 waistband10087 G 60 1/4 waistband10088 H 70 Zipper facing

iFUSILE > JRDPANTF10089 I 50 3/4 waistband10090 J 60 1/4 waistband

IIIIII* 89

I__ _ __ _ _ _

I



STYLE: MIL-S-29630



REGULAR TALL

CE CATEGORY DESCRIPTION PCS

SELF > RTDPANTS10109 A 10 Right front pant10110 B 20 Left front pant

110111 C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 Pocket110086 F 50 3/4 waistband 110087 G 60 1/4 waistband 110088 H 70 Zipper facing 1

FUSIBLE > RTDPANTF10089 I 50 3/4 waistband 110090 J 60 1/4 waistband 1

IIIIII

90 3I

II Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: MIL-S-29630



WOMEN'S TALL

I PIECEEGAME C GORY DESCRIPTION-

SELF > WTDPANTS10112 A 10 Right front pant110113 B 20 Left front pant110114 C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 Pocket

G10086 F 50 3/4 waistbandB10087 G 60 1/4 waistband1

10088 H 70 Zipper facing

FUSIBLE > WTDPANTF10089 I 50 3/4 waistband10090 J 60 1/4 waistband

9

* 91

II



STYLE: MIL-S-29630



JUNIOR TALL

PIECE NAME CATEGORY DESCRIPTION Ps

SELF > JTDPANTS10106 A 10 Right front pant

10107 B 20 Left front pant110108 C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 Pocket110086 F 50 3/4 waistband10087 G 60 1/4 waistband 1 I10088 H 70 Zipper facing

FUSIBLE > JTDPANTF10089 I 50 3/4 waistband 110090 J 60 1/4 waistband 1

IIIIII

92 i

I



STYLE: MIL-S-29630



REGULAR PET=T

PIEC NAME CATEGORX DESCRIPTION PCS

SELF > RPDPANTS10100 A 10 Right front pant110101 B 20 Left front pant110102 C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 Pocket110086 F 50 3/4 waistband 110087 G 60 1/4 waistband I10088 H 70 Zipper facing 1

FI > RPDPANTF10089 1 50 3/4 waistband 1"10090 J 60 1/4 waistband

93

I

Appendfx I Navy Woments Dress Uniforms mPATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY

(MODEL FILES)

STYLE: MIL-S-29630



WOMEN'S PETITE

SCATEGORY DESCRIPTION PCS

SELF > WPDPANTS10103 A 10 Right front pant

10104 B 20 Left front pant 3110105 C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 Pocket110086 F 50 3/4 waistband 110087 G 60 1/4 waistband 110088 H 70 Zipper facing

FUSIBLE > WPDPANTF10089 I 50 3/4 waistband 110090 J 60 1/4 waistband 1

iIIiiI

I



STYLE: MIL-S-29630



JUNIOR PETITE

SCATEGORY DESCRIPTION

SE > JPDPANTS10097 A 10 Right front pant110098 B 20 Left front pant110099 C 30 Back pant210085 E 40 Pocket110086 F 50 3/4 waistband 110087 G 60 1/4 waistband 110088 H 70 Zipper facing 1

FUSIBLE > JPDPANTF10089 I 50 3/4 waistband 110090 J 60 1/4 waistband 1

95

II,


PATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORY I(MODEL FILES)

STYLE: MIL-S-29629

NAVY WOMEN'S BELTED SKIRT

(WORK SKIRT WITH WELT POCKET) iMASTER SHEET

SCATEGORY DESCRIPTION PCS

SELFA 10 Front skirt 1B 20 Back skirt 2

10141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2

LININGF 10 Front skirt 1 1G 20 Back skirt 2

10146 H 60 Large pocket 210147 I 61 Small pocket 2

10148 J 30 Waistband 110149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

TEMPLATE10150 50 Waist elastic 1

IIII

I


PATTERN NUMBER DIRECTORYI IODEL FILES)

STYLE: MIL-S-29629


(WORK SKIRT WITH WELT POCKET)

REGULAR REGULAR

P CAEmQRY DESCRIPTION Pcs,

I SELF > RRWSKTS10159 A 10 Front skirt 110160 B 20 Back skirt 210141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2

LININQ > RRWSKTL10161 F 10 Front skirt 1

I 10162 G 20 Back skirt 210146 H 60 Large pocket 210147 I 61 Small pocket 2

FUSIBLE > RRWSKTF10148 J 30 Waistband 11,0149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

TEMPLATE > RRWSKTT10150 50 Waist elastic 1

9IIIm 9

II

Appendix I Navy Women's Dress Uniforms I


STYLE: MIL-S-29629



_QMENIS REGULAR

SCATEGORY DESCRIPT ION PCS

SELF > WRWSKTS10171 A 10 Front skirt 110172 B 20 rack skirt 210141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2 3LINING > WRWSKTL10173 F 10 Front skirt 1

10174 G 20 Back skirt 210146 H 60 Large pocket 210147 I 61 Small pocket 2 I

FUSIBLE > WRWSKTF10148 J 30 Waistband 110149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

TEMPLATE > WRWSKTT10150 50 Waist elastic 1

98

EI

I



STYLE: MIL-S-29629

INAVY WOMEN'S BELTED SKIRT


JUNIOR REGULAR

IPIEE AM CATEGORY DESCRIPTION PCS

I9L > JRWSKTS10139 A 10 Front skirt 1

10140 B 20 Back skirt 210141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2

LINING > JRWSKTL10144 F 10 Front skirt 1

1 10145 G 20 Back skirt 210146 H 60 Large pocket 210147 I 61 Small pocket 2

FUSIBLE > JRWSKTF10148 J 30 Waistband 110149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

L > JRWSKTT10150 50 Waist elastic 1

99

II

App*ndix I Navy Women's Dress Uniforms


STYLE: MIL-S-29629



REGULAR TALLi

RIEC N=CATEGORY DESCRIPTION

SELF > RTWSKT.S10167 A 10 Front skirt 110168 B 20 Back skirt 210141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2

LINING > RTWSKTL10169 F 10 Front skirt 1

10170 G 20 Back skirt 210146 H 60 Large pocket 210147 I 61 Small pocket 2

FUSIBLE > RTWSKTF

10148 J 30 Waistband 1 i10149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

TEPLATE > RTWSKTT10150 50 Waist elastic 1 i

100 I

U



STYLE: MIL-S-29629



WOMEN'S TALL

I SEL > WTWSKTS10179 A 10 Front skirt 110180 B 20 Back skirt 210141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2

LININ > WTWSKTL10181 F 10 Front skirt 1


I > WTWSKTF10148 J 30 Waistband 110149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

TEMPLATE > WTWSKTT10150 50 Waist elastic 1

10

I 101

II

Appendix I Navy Woman's Dress Uniforms


(MODEL FILES)

STYLE: MIL-S-29629


(WORK SKIRT WITH WELT POCKET) iJUlNIOR TALL

REENM CATEGOEX DESCRIPTION E

2= > JTWSKTS10155 A 10 Front skirt 110156 B 20 Back skirt 210141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2

LINING > JTWSKTL10157 F 10 Front skirt 1 310158 G 20 Back skirt 210146 H 60 Large pocket 210147 I 61 Small pocket 2

FUSIBLE > JTWSKTF10148 J 30 Waistband 110149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

ZOPPLTE > JTWSKTT10150 50 Waist elastic 1

IIII

102 I

I

I

i Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: MIL-S-29629



REGULAR PETITE

i C•-IAM CATEGORY DECRIPTION

i SLF> RPWSKTS

10163 A 10 Front skirt 110164 B 20 Back skirt 210141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2

i LIING > RPWSKTL10165 F 10 Front skirt 1


FUSIBLE > RPWSIKTF10148 J 30 Waistband 110149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

L > RPWSKTT10150 50 Waist elastic 1

IIIII 103

I

Appendix I Navy Women'ts Dress Uniforms

PATTERN NUMBER DIRECIORY(MODEL FILES)

STYLE: MIL-S-29629



WOMENI'S PETITE

PEENM CATEGORY ECITU

LF > WPWSKTS10175 A 10 Front skirt 110176 B 20 Back skirt 210141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2

LINING > WPWSKTL10177 F 10 Front skirt 1


FUSIBLE > WPWSKTF10148 J 30 Waistband 110149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

TEMPLATE > WPWSKTT10150 50 Waist elastic 1

104

I



STYLE: MIL-S-29629



JUNIOR PETITE

SELF > JPWSKTS10151 A 10 Front skirt 110152 B 20 Back skirt 210141 C 30 Waistband 110142 D 61 Inside pocket 210143 E 60 Welt pocket 2

LINING > JPWSKTL10153 F 10 Front skirt 1


FUSIBLE > JPWSKTF10148 J 30 Waistband I10149 K 60 Welt pocket 2

T LAT > JPWSKTT10150 50 Waist elastic 1

105

III

Appendix I Navy Women's Dress uniforms


STYLE: MIL-S-24948

NAVY WOMEN'S BELTED SLACKS

(WORK PANTS WITH SIDE POCKETS)

MASTER SHEET

PEENM CATEGORY DESRIPIO

1 10 Front2

2 20 Back

10117 3 30 Side front facing210118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 FO Waistband 210120 6 60 Zipper facing 3

LINING10121 7 40 Pocket 2

FUSIBLE10122 8 50 Waistband 2

106

iI Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: MIL-S-24948

1NAVY WOMEN'S BELTED SLACKS


REGULAR REGUL&

I NAME CATGORY DESCRIPTION

SE__LF > RRWPANTS10123 1 10 Front210124 2 20 Back210117 3 30 Side front facing210118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 50 Waistband 210120 6 60 Zipper facing 3

LINING > RRWPANTL10121 7 40 Pocket 2

FUSIALE > RRWPANTF10122 8 50 Waistband 2

IIII

I 107

U

III



STYLE: MIL-S-24948

NAVY WOMENIS BELTED SLACKS


WOMEN' S REGULAR

PIE Z CATEGORX DESCRIPTION PCS

SELF > WRWPANTS i103.25 1 10 Front210126 2 20 Back210117 3 30 Side front facing

10118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 50 Waistband 210120 6 60 Zipper facing 3

LINING > WRWPANTL10121 7 40 Pocket 2

E > WRWPANTF10122 8 50 Waistband 2

iIIII

108 I

I

IiI Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: MIL-S-24948



JUNIOR REGULAR

PIECENAME C:Z.EGORY 2ESCRIEIONl

SEF S > JRWPANTS10115 1 10 Front210116 2 20 Back210117 3 30 Side front facing210118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 50 Waistband 210120 6 60 Zipper facing 3

LINING > JRWPANTL10121 7 40 Pocket 2

FUSIBLE > JRWPANTF10122 8 50 Waistband 2

II

109

Alm



STYLE: MIL-S-24948



REGULAR TALL


SELF > RTWPANTS10135 1 10 Front210136 2 20 Back210117 3 30 Side front facing210118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 50 Waistband 210120 6 60 Zipper facing 3

LINING > RTWPANTL10121 7 40 Pocket 2

FUSIBLE > RTWPANTF10122 8 50 Waistband 2

110

II

SNavy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix I


STYLE: MIL-S-24948


3 (WORK PANTS WITH SIDE POCKETS)

WOMEN'S TALL


SELF > WTWPANTS10137 1 10 Front210138 2 20 Back210117 3 30 Side front facing210118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 50 Waistband 2

10120 6 60 Zipper facing 3

LINING > WTWPANTLS10121 7 40 Pocket 2

FUSIBLE > WTWPANTF10122 8 50 Waistband 2

IIII-I

I'

IIAppendix I Navy Women's Dress Unitorms


STYLE: MIL-S-24948



JUNIOR TALL


SELF > JTWPANTS 310133 1 10 Front210134 2 20 Back210117 3 30 Side front facing210118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 50 Waistband 210120 6 60 Zipper facing 3 ILINING > JTWPANTL10121 7 40 Pocket 2

USIBLE > JTWPANTF10122 8 50 Waistband 2

I

II

112I

I

I



STYLE: MIL-S-24948



REGULAR PETITE


SELF > RPWPANTS10129 1 10 Front210130 2 20 Back210117 3 30 Side front facing210118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 50 Waistband 210120 6 60 Zipper facing 3

LINING > RPWPANTL10121 7 40 Pocket 2

FUSIBLE > RPWPANTF10122 8 50 Waistband 2

IIIII

i 113

I

I



STYLE: MIL-S-24948


(WORY PANTS WITH SIDE POCKETS) 3WOMEN'S PETITE i

SELF ;PWPANTS10131 1 10 Front210132 2 20 Back210117 3 30 Side front facing210118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 50 Waistband 210120 6 60 zipper facing 3

LIININ > WPWPANTL10121 7 40 Pocket 2

FUSIBLE > WPWPANTF10122 8 50 Waistband 2

I

114I-



STYLE: MIL-S-24948



JUNIOR PETITE

I CATEGORY DESCRIPTION

SL > JPWPANTS10127 1 10 Front210128 2 20 Back210117 3 30 Side front facing210118 4 40 Pocket facing210119 5 50 Waistband 2

10120 6 60 Zipper facing 3

LIKING > JPWPANTL10121 7 40 Pocket 2

FUSIBLE > JPWPANTF10122 8 50 Waistband 2

115

Im NaVy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix !!

IIIIIII

I APPENDIX II: MAGNETIC PATTERN TAPE LOGI (PATTERN POSITIONS)

IIIIIIi

I 116

aI_ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

II

I Navy Women's Dress uniforms Appendix 1I

March 7, 1991

Mr. Harry WinerNavy Clothing & Textile Research FacilityClothing Development DivisionPost office Box 59Natick, MA 01760-0001

I RE: DEVELOPMENT OF PATTERNS AND CLOTHING PROTOTYPES FOR

NAVY WOMEN'S DRESS UNIFORMS; DLA 900-87-D-0016-0005

Dear Mr. Winer:

In accordance with the terms and obligations of the referencedshort term research and development project we are, with thisletter, submitting to you the required finalized Magnetic PatternTape (MPT).

I The submitted Magnetic Pattern Tape contains the digitized gradesof the ý09 individual pattern pieces required for theconstruction/manufacture of the five (5) Navy Women's Dress Uniformgarments in all sizes of the size tariff.

The five Navy Women's Dress Uniform garments are:Coat, Woman's, Blue, Dress (MIL-C-29124)Skirt, Woman's, Blue, Dress (MIL-S-29122)Slack's, Woman's, Blue, Dress (MIL-S-41825)Skirt, Woman's, Belted (MIL-S-87053)Slack's, Woman's, Belted (MIL-S-87054)

Accompanying the MPT is a log of the individual pattern pieces andtheir positions on the tape.

This tape is compatible with the required Gerber GarmentTechnology, Inc. AM-5 and Accu-Mark systems.

If you have any questions or comments concerning this matter please

contact me at 1-212-760-7410.

Sincerely,

Noah BrennerProject CoordinatorAdvanced Apparel ManufacturingTechnology Programs

NB/ircc: Donald F. O'Brien

Sarah DiDonatoHenry A. Seesselberg *(Transcribed from original)

3 117

I

IIAppendix It Navy Uouen*a Dress Uniform. I

MAGNETIC PATTERN TAPE LOG(PATTERN POSITIONS) I

+'0909= =IL 3J.QIIIIJzlJI404 ==VALM 9iW0 FAT=S

1=CZS TOR A"L SZZU Of 131 USZ I

P141c: FIL Ilia .13tzi" AT T111 4#21 FA41ZE

TAREwraY PC M, (Mzz•T1a PAiTS UtUI ?TS SIZES A•AI

I If#1 2 to * 34• fLfr C12 P.411l 1 14 47 4-2 1 t1194 19ft . 2431 V ULI F FIDAL 1 2f 47 4-: 21 It3 11992 25 U RIM SE• I IF PARl 2 1 U3 4- 2f *0419913 49 $21431 SELf .23 PAS 2 1I 37 4- 21 IfI 1f494 so M. l'f SELF IPSF 2 4 22 4- 24 19i !19f9 71 ii*21431 SW PSI IEl I 11 3, 4- 21 If I71944 1 f W1061 SLY INS PIC 3 4 24 4- 21 If1 111641 79 5•2141 IL3 1'11115 2 3I U 4 4- 2I I1I 1f9 4i 21 1;631 lee Lulls 3 4 17 4- 2's i

I2 41491 t 321411 UN U PAN * 14 34 4- U 1 I11.1 •4(1 29 S26,31 L, II P P 1 29 41 4-29 1t12191 tif I I S,431 LIS It' PAN 2 13 13 4- 21 It13 11912 49 11101 1 1X 13 PAR 2 It 47 4-U 42 IJ4 11#13 41 S21611 LID INS Fee 3 S 31 4- :19 If1519114 £5 *21 III PIf$ C UILT 3 I 14 4- 29 I114 10415 71 1 f i2t4,1 15 1IS'417 2 25" 4 4- 2f .1917 1101 7f *211312 10 IAST 6. ,15 4- 29 If1 I1417 f 3116131 JULT FIC IU 2 12 24 4- 21 9 IIf11 110 19 it 1431 S214J l ,I CPA I 49 4- 41 14

24 1jify 2it $2431 $ELF 141P 1 22 If 4-2f If21 192lf5 1 Me 431 I1, IF PAR 2 IS 34 4- :1 If22 10e41 4S $216411 L IIF 1 PAD 1 16 41 4- 21 1921 1U22 10 521631 LII U PAN 1 14 3 4- 20 19f.

•H' 191 23 s2 ff14.21 L3 I1A.8 * 22 so 4- 2f 1i45 1i$#11# 34 *216:1 LIS IF PAR 2 14 IS 4-21 19

:A IM.~ 49 S*21631 LIS 12 PAZ 2 14 3? 4- 20 1927 ltl t lill itl "4 1 WF l Cf I I I f is IS - It1 It I25 1tt9i7 :1 £2141 SILlF CJ PAt 1 22 Si 4- 4 0 1121 011929 2I *611 'ILF 11 PAD 2 1s 37 4- .19 It34 0421 4. 12131 ILU W I PAD 2 If 41 4- 29 I I3115034~l 19 l71631 LXIl CII PUI 1 14 ,, 4-U :1932 /1431 29 1 711631 LIN C3 PAZ I it is 4- :1 1t

3, 1#432 If 514411 LIS IF PMl 2 14 3I 4- 29 If34 1043 4, V94141 LIN i$ PAM 2 I if 4- .9 10i3 51134 it I1261 fill V PAD 1 12 33 4- :1 IfI3 (9935 41 $26MI *LIV '3 PAD 1 29 46 4- ,1 1917 116,3 ,I 12 SIl III.F PAN 2 1 33 4-, 1 It29 10037 49 rn lLfL $JD PAS 2 1 17 4- .. 9 If3I ions 19 121"i1 LI, UF PAD 1 14 U 4-.2I I949194f31 20 MW63 LID QI PAN 1 22 to 4-2 Is I41 140 39 127"1 LIN IDlF PA1 2 14 IS 4-9 It 141 I1111 40 1"•,11 LIf $1 PAD 2 14 39 4- 25 1-41(1#4,1 I 26I.1 IELF :F PAN 1 14 U4 4- .+ If44 11043 IN 1276JI UV 4L PAD I -1 12 +- 4-2 1I49 19444 is *4l LIIU IF PAN 12 I S 4- :- 9If

44 1114S 49 1216. 1 ID F PAN I IF 4- is I141 109446 14 97M6 LIN UF PAN 1 14 14 4-9 19 If44 10447 24. 5"2.611 LIS C2P IAN I i .1 4- .3 1941 10d4V 1 t.9611 LIN Vl PAN 14 , ,- :1 e to10 ,1041 49 J.74.11 1.1511 OAN 2 S is 1 : 11.118I

Navy Women's Dress uniforms Appendix it

MAGNETIC PATTERN TAPE LOG(PATTERN POSITIONS)

PIECE FILE ISM! CIEED AT TIRE 4825 DAlE 2

TAPE1ITT PC SFI OESC21PTIOI ?MrTS $BS ITS $IZE1 BAS

5111 9Is t 12f 02 1 SILF CF PA•M 14 34 4-, 19 It

1219951 29 S2161 SELF Ul PAD 1 21 Sd 4- 20 ItI3 14452 30 411631 SELF !F PAR 2 13 31 4- 291 1

14 1•953 4f $2M11 SELF 13 PAN 2 It H1 4- 20 It55 LJ5O4 it S21611 LIN CF PAR 1 14 34 4- 25 19

U4 19#05 &41 SMU6 LIN C2 PMA 1 22 Si 4- 250 1157 14•5i 3U S29531 LI SF PAN 2 13 33 4- 29 I9

H919957 49 Will3 LIN 13 PAN 2 it 39 4- 2A If59 190M8 If 2ll943 SELF UI PAl 1 14 3£ 4- 20 It

t 919959 9t $21631 SELF C2 PAS 1 29 48 4- 21 19

61 19969 I 9 S21631 SELF -of DA 1 13 33 4- 2t 19

62 1§941 49 921431 SELF S11PM 2 15 17 4- 29t I43 19062 19 S29631 LII CF PAR 1 14 34 4- 29 1I

£4 19963 20 $21431 LIN C3 PAN 1 29 48 4- 29 19

65 19964 39 :27631 LIN SF PAN 2 13 33 4- 21 1I

it 1t465 49 321431 INII $3 PA 2 15 37 4- 29 1967 9l944 1t $21631 SELF CF ?PA 1 16 41 4- 29 19

II £8 f67 41 $21431 SELF 0l PAU 1 2U 4£ 4- M9 1I42 19j94 ;j 527631 SELF $I PAR 2 13 33 4- 29 19

79 1996•9 49 Mi31 SELF S3 PAR 2 15 37 4- 29 i1

71 11971 t S216.32 LII CF ?A1 1 I 38 4- 29 I

72 19#71 S210631 LII Cl PAZ 1 29 44 4- 25 19

731 II72 I3 $21631 LI SF Pl9 2 14 33 4- 29 It

74 19973 49 S2161 LIS Ui PAR 2 15 17 4- 25 19

75 19974 18 S21631 SELF CF PAN 1 14 34 4- I2 19

7£199&75 2 V 611 SELF C1 PAi 1 20 4£ 4- 29 19

77 19976 3i M29631 SELF SF PAS 2 13 33 4- 291 I

78 14077 49 24311 UELF 13 PAN 2 15 37 4- 29 19I 7? 109 1t !24611 LII CF PAN I i1 is 4- 29 19

8O 10971 4t 19 631 LII C1 IAN 1 22 59 4- 29 10

f 114011 3it 216i1 LII S, PAS 2 14 35 4- 21 19

82 19981 4f $21631 LIN $ PMN 2 it U9 4- 20 19II l83 12 1t £21639 SILF I FIT 4 2 47 4- 2I I1

14 ff9l3 29 S21£30 SELF L FAT 4 22 61 4- 2f 19

S5 11084 It 129439 SELF JACK 4 22 64 4- :0 19

8£ 1981$ 4 221439 SELF ?QC I3 1 3d 4- .3 19I7 19196 51 $21439 1 314 1AI!T3D 4 Is 34 4- 29 19

91 19987 if S:1430 5 114 WAIST I if 78 4- 29 1I

89 19989 7 ! 52969• E-ELF IPFEA 2 1 :5 4- 29 1AIt 1998, 59 129639 F 114 iAlSTCI 6£ 1 4- 29 19

it 119ft id S21630 F 114 IAIST1 1 5 8 4- 29 11

12 15'?l it $S214. SELF I FIT 4 23 47 4- 29 i1

13 1992 29 124639 211 L FIT 4 23 44 4- 32 19

94 1•993 30 121613 SELF JACK 4 22 64 4- 1. I1

9$ 10914 1i ;11631 SELF AT FAT 2 21 63 4- :9 19

I4 19995 :9 111643 SELF LV FAT 1 21 6z 4- 29 it

17 1196 9 It 76309 ISlL JACK 22 67 4- if 1

13 19991 to j24439~ ULF A PAT 4 23 ii 4- 211 1919 9198 l2 ;2763Z1 VEI. L FiT 4 23 64 4- l 1t'

199 10919 3i 4:1610 SELF BACA 4 22 i4 4- l 1, If

119

Appendix It Navy Women's DCress Uniforms3

MAGNETIC PATTERN TAPE LOG

(PATTERN POSITIONS)IPIECE f ILE WZEX CREATED AT TIRE 4s25 PASU I

OTY PC spy DESC*1PTION PARTS SEES P15 SIZES UASEI

1M 09M9 it $29630 SELF A FAT 4 23 £7 4- 29 It142 JIM1 290 V9410 SeELF L fiT 4 21 14 4- 29 Is103119 310 9i 127659 WL IACl 4 22 65 4- 29 19194 If193 if :27Wi SELF A FAT 4 23 48 4- 22f 19195 11114 :9 149639 SELF L FIT 4 22 42 4- It 19194 1#195 34 $29639 SELF 1ACK 0 22 64 4- 79 1f1#7 19194 It q12639 SELF A? FIT J 21 43 4- :0 It195 j1017 29 .;"?43f SELF LF FAr 3 21 j3 4- If if1t? 1ilt$ It S27639 SELF lACK 4 22 45 4- 29 it119 14119 if S216if SELF AT FAT 3 21 43 4- 29f It111 14119 'A' 12!9630 SELF LF FAT 3 21 4f 4-9 It 9I11, JIM1 39 $:.fill SELF IACX 4 22 49 4- '29 It113 19112 it $29639 SELF AT FIT 3 71 43 4- &19 19114 19113 21 Wilt3 SELF LF FAT 3 21 49 4-2 If it115 14114 39 212630 SELF lACK 4 224 49 4- 21 if116 14115 19 S24948 FT PANT 3 21 53 4- 20 If117 A1116 29 S24941 31 PART 3 21 59 4- 219 19118 14117 If $24948 SP F FAC 1 9 24 4- 29 1it119 19118 4f $24948 S PIC FAC 3 10 29 4- 2§ If129 19119 50 $249491 SWAIST 3 17 32 4- 29 1t121 19129l 45 1.24948 ZIP FAC 1 8 22 4- 'A9 19i

122 1411.1 40 S24MI LIS PIC 2 12 47 4- i9 if124 1#122 $1 :24943 FT PANST 3 21 I5 4- 29 If

125 19124 IfS29 149f41 1I PART 3 29 59 4- 29 19126l 11125 19 S24949 FT PANT 3 A21 54 4- 29 19f127 1912£ 29 S24941 It PANT 3 21 j 1 4- 29 191268 If9127 1 ST24 941 9fT PANT I 2ll 12 4- 29 19t129 191283 If $2048 It PANT I 290 55 4- 29 i9130 11129 1f 124941 FT PANT 3 21 53 4- If 19f1I1 1i13# 20 $4'4940 39 PANT 3 29 54 4- 219 if132 14131 19 124949 FT PANT j 21 54 4- 20 19133 10132 29 $24948 53 PANT 3 20 S4 4- 291 9 it134 11133 10 $44948 FT PANT 3 21 54 4- 29 1 9i135 1914 If !:4141 51 PANT 3 29 58 4- 4f 19134 19135 19 0024941 FT PAST 3 21 54 4- 29 19I137 16134 2f !24141 31 PANT I .If 51 4- 296 1111 1#137 if 124941 FT PNT 1 21 it 4- 211 lo-13I 1913 20 $24940 ll PART 1 29 59 4- 29 1t149 19139 19 S79621 SELF PT 517 1 39 62 4- 290 19f141 19149 291292 SULF It 17 42 4- 29 19t142 M141 If 121629 SELF lAIT 1 24 So 4- .0 If143 10142 41 121W9 1ELF INS PIC 3 4 24 4- 29 I9144 19143 49 12?627 SELF PIC ARLT I 14 3f 4- i9 19145 10144 if S12629 LIN FT SIT 1 22 52 4- 29 19t146 !191 40 $29 S29 LIIN 13 17 it 4- 290 19147 1114£ 69 MW62 FEC U1119 3 4 37 4- 290 19149 39147 61 1:160 LIN INS PIC 1 8 33 +- Ali If1049 914d if S27617 rIS iAIST 3 6 It 4- 't 191596 11149 if S274:7 Mil PIC MILT I A 14 4- I9f1

120

Mavy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix 11

IMAGNETIC PATTERN TAPE LOG(PATTERN POSITIONS)

PIECE FILE INDEX CREATED AT TIRE 415 PAGE 4

TAPEEXTRY PC SPI DE32IPTION PARTS SEGS PTS SIZES RASE

151 If[Si $9 S2?629 AZIST ELASTIC 3 6 I1 4- 2# if152 1#1•1 1t 4296i9 SELF FAT 7 It 64 4- 2# It

153 19152 20 $21627 SELF 19 3 19 42 4- :9 1f

154 1f1S3 I S2%529 LIN FAT 5 22 52 4- 29 I155 19154 29 S?62? LIN 39 3 17 4# 4- 29 I15i 19155 1# S29629 SELF FIT 7 39 $2 4- 2f 1I157 19156 21 $21629 SELF I 3 11 43 4- 29 19159 14157 19 S29621? LIN FAT 5 22 V2 4- 290 It159 10158 29 S:9629 Lis at 3 17 39 4- 29 19I169 19159 i1 S21629 SELF FRT 7 39 62 4- 29 19

161 1I169 29 52?629 SELF SK 3 19 42 4- 29f 1162 19161 9 S27162? LIN FT 5 22 52 4- 2f 19163 10162 20 S29629 LII IL 3 17 39 4- 29 I1164 19163 1f S29669 SELF FRT 7 39 62 4- 29 19

165 19164 21 S21629 SELF J9 3 19 42 4- 29 I116W 1#$5 19 S29629 LIN FAT 5 22 52 4- 29 1I

167 19166 29 S29629 LIJ IH 3 15 3$ 4- 21 I1

168 19167 19 S2962? SELF FIT 7 39 62 4- 2U 19

162 19168 29 529629 SELF ag 3 19 42 4- 29 19

171 10169 It S296: LIN 7AT 5 22 52 4- 21 1I171 1017f 29 929629 LIN 3L 3 17 39 4- 29 I1

17? 1171 it S12629 SELF FAT 7 39 12 4- 2f 19

173 19172 29 S29629 SELF IL 3 19 42 4- 29 It

174 19173 19 S29629 LIN FAT 5 22 52 4- 26 I1175 1#174 29 32962? LIN 89 3 17 49 4- 23 19176 19175 it 329629 SELF FAT 7 3U 62 4- 29 1 9177 19176 29 $29629 SELF 3K 3 19 42 4- 29 19

179 14177 1t S2962? LIN FAT 5 221 52 4- 29 19179 19179 291 529?629 LIN 1L 1 17 39 4- 29 It19 1017? 1f S2?62? SELF FAT 7 30 12 4- 29 1I131 1#139 20 29629 SELF 39 3 19 42 4- 29 It192 1•1•1 1t S29629 LIN FAT 5 22 52 4- 29 19183 10132 29 $29629 LIN 8L 3 17 33 4- 20 19184 10913 19 C491 9 S FIONT 2 19 62 4- A' 1I

185 19184 11 C21628 S SP F4T 2 21 63 4- 29 19

186 39185 it C:1629 S SO IACZ 2 It 55 4- 29 19187 19186 21 C27621 S CTA i1 2 22 59 4- 2f 19199 10187 39 C2162 S TP SLY 2 12 49 4- 29 19189 10138 31 C29624 S U1 SLY 2 11 36 4- 29 I1190 1ill0 12 429629 S FT FAC 2 13 49 4- 10 I1191 10190 49 C2629 C TP CuL 2 15 53 4- 29 t1

192 1•12 41 C29629 S VA CuL 4 14 39 4- 23 19193 19192 59 SELF FLAP 3 8 19 4- 29 19194 19193 19 C29628 LIN FAT 2 19 52 4- if 19195 9194 291 C:16623 L11 .19 3L 2 17 51 4- .29 10106 11•01 21 C2966 L CITA il 2 19 53 4- it I1197 199 i t • 2•628 L P1C 1 90 37 4- 20 i9199 19197 30 19•623 L TP SLY 2 10 56 4-2 2 It

111 10198 31 270621 L UN SLY 2 9 13 4- 29 I1:of 19119 itfC16:3 FOS FAT 2 19 62 4- if II

121

ItI

Appendix 11 Navy Women's Dress Uniforms


AP ECE FILE INOE CREATED AT TIRE 4:21 PAE S

TAPE

EATRY PC SPI DESCSIPTION PARTS SEGS PTS SIZES BASEUf1 11111 If C29629 F ED PAT 2 29 63 4- : 1 f9292 1421f 12 M6C62 F FT PAC 2 13 49 4- 29 1• I231 19291 41 C29623 F T? COL 2 15 53 4- 29 It294 1#243 41 C2?629 F 11 COL 4 14 43 4- 19 if2i5 10214 SO FS9 FLAP 3 S 19 4- :9 it12# 1Z020 19 C296$3 FT IOTTOENOL 6 20 42 4- 9 19 l297 19296 If C2962. FT BUTTON 7 11 37 4- 29 t9

292 10297 49 C21623 COL IARX 2 17 54 4- 29 9i299 1H263 S C29629 FLAP NA•KEA 4 19 53 4- 29 It21# 10239 511C92 FLAP 4 13 25 4- 20 i9f211 19219 I C21623 3 SB FAT 2 19 59 4- 2f i1212 Mi21 20 C21629 S SO lK 2 19 52 4- 2 1it

21 I2122 21 C•?628 S CTA 31 2 22 14 4- 1 9 I214 10213 39 C9629t S TP SLY 2 12 SO 4- 2# if215 1H214 31 C29628 S ON SLY 2 12 37 4- 29 10216 1015 if VMS 96 SD FAT 2 17 39 4- 29 1f217 14216 29 C2?629 L $0 35 2 17 40 4-9 2 1 If219 14217 21 C2914: L CTA 31 2 20 49 4- 29 1I219 1H219 It C296209 L T SLY 2 I1 47 4- 1. 9 I221 1H21? 31 CII628 L s SLY 2 1 32 4-9 19 I221 102t9 II C;16fl F SD FAT 2 Is 59 4- 29 1 I222 19221 I1 421628 S SO lIT 2 20 57 4- 20 1i223 IJ222 2f C21623 S SD0 8 2 19 13 4- 41 t i

224 19223 21 CA9629 S CTA Of 2 23 55 4- 290 If22S 19224 30 C16623 S T? SLY 2 12 479 4- 21 1f226 19225 31 C2%29 S VS SLY 2 11 35 4- 29 1#227 11226 It C29620 L SD FAT 2 It It 4- 29 I123J 1I22T 29 C:7613 L S0 H 2 17 50 4- 29 If.229 19229 21 C21628 L CTA 8 2 29 SO 4- 29 19 l239 10229 if CM623 L T? SLY 2 1t 44 4- 29 19231 H1239 31 C29628 L 93 SLY 2 9 32 4- 19f232 10231 1 C62128 F $S FAT 2 20 59 4- 20 19233 11212 1t C21618 SELF FHT 2 19 57 4- 29 19234 1H233 1I CV2MS SS FAT 2 21 £3 4- 29 I1235 19234 29 C29623 S SD 19 2 20 55 4- 19 I

23£ 10235 21 C2?629 S CTrA i 2 22 59 4- 20 19 1237 10236 I9 C29620 S TP SLY 2 12 49 4- 29 1t239 1U237 31 C24629 S 1 SLY 2 11 35 4- 29 19239 19238 12 C29629 S FT FAC 2 13 41 4- 2f 1924# 19239 10 C2?64'8 L SD FRT 2 11 52 4- 29 If241 19249 29 C29613 L ID If 2 17 49 4- 29 i9

242 19241 21 C9629 L CTR 19 2 79 49 4- 29 19243 19242 J3 M623 1. TP SLY 2 10 47 4- a9 if244 1U243 31 C:9622 C 4 ILY 2 9 39 4- 2 1 9 If245 19244 19 C:76:8 FOS FRT 2 I8 $7 4- 29 1t

246 19245 11 C296211F SO Fit 2 29 61 4-2 19247 09246 12 C2?62 F FT PAC 1 14 52 4- [9 it240 96247 27 C29623 FT 81TTORMOL 6 21 42 4- 9t 19749 19249 If C19623 FT SUTTOI 6 11 N7 4- It it250 19249 11 C'M6 S SD FAT 2 21 64 4- 29 10

122 II

INavy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix It


PIUCS FILE £OEZ C2•ATtED AT TIl[ 48. 1|All 6

TAPE(ETA? PC SV DESC133T7 10 PMTlS $165 PIS SIUS IAS

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123

I

Appendix It Navy Women's Oress Uniforms IMAGNETIC PATTERN TAPE LOG

(PATTERN POSITIONS)

PfIECE FILE 119EX CAEATED AT TISE 4:21 PACE 7

TAPEExTrY PC SPm OESCUZPTIOI HARTS SEUS PTS SIZES IASE

391 1#3•3 2f C29421 S S3 2K 2 18 $3 4-2 f 1t3U2 1931l 21 C2%28 S CTA it 2 22 53 4- 2# if313 1#3#2 31 C27623 S TP SLY 2 12 55 4- 29 I1394 1i393 31 C29623 S is SLY 2 11 35 4- 20 ItUS$ 1 314 11 C21628 L SO FRT 2 18 52 4- 2# 1t306 10395 20 021628 L $0 39 2 16 47 4- 2# It397 19316 21 C29620 L CTI BE 2 19 45 4- 29 itJig19 #37 3d C29629 L T? SLY 2 It 46 4-21 t I399 1§398 31 C29628 L 91 SLY 2 9 31 4- 29 1I31# 19399 11 C29628 F SO FAT 2 18 59 4- 'Ali

IIIIIIIII

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,IINavy Uomen's Dress Uniforms Appendix III

IIIIIIII APPENDIX III: RESEARCH SCHEDULE TASK REVIEWS - A CHRONOLOGY

IIIIIIII 125

I

III Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix III

RESEARCH SCHEDULE TASK REVIEWS - A CHRONOLOGY

SEPTE1MBER 1989. The first month of the project was devotedto the planning function and to the purchasing of materialsnecessary to begin work. A Program Schedule (Gantt chart)was developed outlining in detail the timing for the inceptionand completion of the tasks involved in the project. Purchaseorders were placed immediately for three full-length modelforms, to be built according to the new NCTRF anthropometricdata, and then for fabrics and findings that were needed forinitial prototype development.

Construction of the model forms was particularly problematic.The purchase order for the forms was placed with Wolf ModelForms, a highly reputable manufacturer of forms and a recog-nized expert in this field. As they molded the forms accordingto the new measurements with which we supplied them, theywere alarmed by the width of the thighs and, on several oc-casions, questioned the accuracy of our data. There were anumber of delays while members of our research team reexaminedthe data and reassured the manufacturer of the forms that themeasurements submitted were, indeed, correct. Eventually theforms were completed in conformance with the new data.

At a meeting of all principal investigators on September 18,1989, the fit and construction of the samples that had beensupplied by NCTRF were analyzed. The samples consisted ofthe Navy Blue Dress Coat, the Navy Blue Dress Skirt, the NavyBlue Dress Slacks, the White Belted Skirt, and the White BeltedSlacks. It was agreed that various pattern and constructionmoditications would enhance fit, would simplify alterations,and would better conform to modern manufacturing methods.

The following pattern changes and construction modificationswere proposed.

Navy Blue Dress Coat:

- Move princess seam approximately 3/8 inch toward the sideseam;- Eliminate dart at side front;- Replace shoulder pad with heavier, more shapely pad;- Correct sleeve cap and armhole;- Correct side and shoulder seam;- Provide 1 inch seam allowance on side seam;

Provide 5/8 inch seam allowance on all other seams;and,

Utilize fusible interfacing in all areas except collar.

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Appendix III Navy Women's Dress Uniforms

Navy Blue Dress Skirt:

- Insert elastic section at center back of waistband;- Serge seams, eliminate pinking; and,- Construct pocket entirely of self-fabric.

Navy Blue Dress Slacks:

- Eliminate second dart at front and back.

White Belted Skirt:

- Eliminate facing inside pocket, make pocket more shallow;- Place zipper at side seam;- Square off belt at closure;- Insert elastic section at center back of waistband;- Eliminate second dart at front; and,- Eliminate simulated flat felled seams.

White Belted Slacks:- Eliminate pocketing, use self fabric for pockets; and,- Eliminate facing inside pockets.

OCTOBER 1989. On October 18, a Women's Sizing Program Meetingtook place at NCTRF. This meeting was attended by the NCTRF Istaff and representatives from F.I.T./AAMTD.

Body Measurement Tables that had been furnished to F.I.T./AAMTDas part of the Statement of Work and the project contract hadbeen revised by NCTRF and were submitted at this time forcomments. Although the actual measurements did not change,the number of sizes to be developed was reduced and the nomen-clature was changed. "Minus Hips" sizes were now to bereferred to as "Junior" sizes, and "Plus Hips" sizes were nowto be "Women's" sizes. The nomenclature for lengths - "Pe- Itite", "Regular", and "Tall" -remained unchanged.

At this meeting, it was also announced tLht NCTRF was n~ovingthe completion date of the project from August 6, 1990 toMay 30, 1990, effectively eliminating two months from thetotal time originally projected for completion.

The above, combined with a delay of almost two months i;. thedelivery of the model forms that had been ordered to meet theanthropometric specifications of the project, now requ red the Iexpenditure of extraordinary efforts to meet the now•ly es-tablished deadlines.

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Navy Wcmen's Dress Uniforms Appendix III

The Project Schedule originally prepared for the project wasmodified, and two additional faculty members of the F.I.T.Fashion Design Department, Prof. Wallace Sloves and Prof.Rose Rosa, were asked to assist in the pattern developmentphase of the project in order to speed up the completion ofthis work.

By the end of the month, all materials necessary for thedevelopment of the prototypes, except for the GovernmentFurnished Materials, had been delivered.

On October 24, the model forms were delivered. They appearedrather heavy in the lower hip and thigh area, but upon furtherreflection we concluded that they looked like well developedathletic women. At this point, the pattern development workwas begun and proceeded according to the revised schedule.

NOVEMBER 1989. The entire month of November was devoted to thedevelopment of the first patterns for the five Dress Uniformgarments. The first patterns were draped in sizes 10 JuniorPetite, 10 Junior Regular, and 10 Junior Tall. Modificationsto improve fit and construction methods were incorporated.Muslin toiles (models) were constructed to test design andfit on the new model forms as well as on live models. Onedress coat prototype was tailored in fabric to test the inter-facing materials and to evaluate the fit of the finishedgarment. Students, whose body measurements corresponded asclosely as possible to the anthropometric data supplied byNCTRF, were selected to serve as models.

un November 29th, a joint NCTRF/AAMTD meeting was scheduled atF.I.T./AAMTD to evaluate the initial muslin toiles for stylemodifications and fit. The attendees were: Ms. SirvartMellian and Mr. Harry Winer representing NCTRF, and ProfessorsJaffa, Kode, and Caffarelli of F.I.T./AAMTD. The finisheddress coat was analyzed. This resulted in differences ofopinion regarding its hand or feel. It was, therefore,decided that other fusible interfacings were to be testedbefore a tInal selection was made. Also, as a result of themeeting, come minor adjustments were made in the patterns forthe dress coat, the belted slacks and the belted skirt.

Chart I, FABRIC DESIGNATIONS FOR INITIAL PROTOTYPES, wasdeveloped at the November 29 recting to designate the fabricin which each of the initial prototypes was to be developed.

The target date for the completion of all the initial proto-types in Size 10 was set for January 2, 1990.

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Appendix III Navy Women's Dress Uniforms II

CHART I

SFABRC DESIGNATIONS FOR INITMAL PRCOTOYPES

_ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ ___In_ _ I--__ _ ISIZES DRESS DRESS DRESS BELTED BELTED

COAT SKIRT SLACKS SKIRT SLACKSSI II I rII II .

P10 blue blue l wh. poly wh. gab

Jr. RI0 wh. poly wh. poly wh. poly wh. poly Iwh. gab

Kr. TO ~blue Iblue blue iwh. poly 1wh. ga9

Miss P1O wh. poly W.i. poly 1wh. poly wh. poly wh. gabI

Miss RI0 iblue blue blue Iwh. poly lwh. gab

MSS T1 bue blue h bIue wh. poly wh. gab

wom. ?10 blue Iblue blue wh. poly wh' gab

Wom. Rl0 blue Iblue blue wh. poly wh. gab

Wom. TIO wh. poly wh.poly wh. poly wh. poly !wh. gab I

blue = blue polyester/wool 6ropical

wh. poly = white texturi:ed polyester Iwh. gab = wh..:e polyester/cotton twlli

I129I

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Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix III

DECEMBER 1989. In the month of December, muslin patterns weredeveloped in the following sizes: Regular Petite, RegularRegular, and Regular Tall; Women's Petite, Women's Regular,and Women's Tall. In order to test the draped muslin patterns,muslin toiles were sewn and then fitted on student models.Minor adjustments in the patterns were made prior to hardpaper pattern development.

Hard paper patterns were manually developed from the correctedmuslin patterns for all Size 10 prototypes: a total of 45 gar-ments, proportioned to height and hip measurements, and con-sisting of nine dress coats, nine dress skirts, nine dressslacks, nine belted skirts and nine belted slacks.

As soon as the paper patterns were completed, garment parts ofthe initial prototypes were cut out individually. All cuttingwas done at the F.I.T./AAMTD facility. The sewing, however,was done by contractors under project team supervision.Unfortunately, the originally selected contractors were nolonger available. Frank Soltz and Sons, Inc. had declaredChapter 11 bankruptcy and had closed its plants; CataniaClothing Co. and Patmore Coat, Inc., because of an overloadof work from other sources, could not accept sample ordersfrom us at the time that we needed them. We, therefore, hadthe coats manufactured by Jackie Evans, Inc. and we had theJunior size skirts and slacks produced by Rosario Sportswear,Inc. Unfortunately, Rosario Sportswear stopped all work andclosed its plant for the Christmas/New Year holidays and wasnot able to produce the Regular and Women's size slacks andskirts for December 31st completion. This caused us to turnto Pat and Rose Dress, Inc., a special sample contractor, whoaccommodated our needs and completed the necessary work onschedule.

In order to get ready for the pattern grading in Phase II ofthe project, which was scheduled to begin in January, CassandraWilliams began preliminary work required for the generationof the Grade Rule Tables.

JANUARY 1990. On January 10th, with Ms. Sirvart Mellian of theU.S. Navy in attendance, the initial prototypes were fit testedon student models at F.I.T./AAMTD. It was found that duringthe construction process some minor pattern-to-garment dis-crepancies arose which could not be corrected before thegarments were completed. These, and other problems identified

during the fit test, required the modification of the hardpaper patterns and the construction of new prototypes.

II 130

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Appendix III Navy Women's Dress Uniforms

The following corrections were made: 3- All skirt patterns were adjusted to have less ease at thehipline;- The slacks patterns were adjusted to reduce the amount offront rise;- Dress coat patterns were adjusted at the side panel and thearm-hole. The collar length was slightly reduced and some ofthe sleeve-cap ease was eliminated to facilitate production.

New prototypes, incorporating the corrections noted above, werecut and sewn in the F.I.T./Advanced Apparel Manufacturing ITechnology Demonstration facility. This enabled the projectteam's pattern designers and production people to work moreclosely together analyzing production requirements and toIwork out any production problems that they identified. Newsamples were completed in January for the Navy Blue DressSkirt and Navy Blue Dress Slacks.

The Grade Rule Tables were finalized and grading was scheduledto proceed as soon as the first prototypes were approved. 3FEBRUARY 1990. A set of corrected samples in Size 10 JuniorRegular was completed for the fit test scheduled for February20th. The set consisted of the Navy Blue Dress Skirt, NavyBlue Dress Slacks, White Belted Skirt, White Belted Slacks,and a White Dress Coat. This last garment, similar in allrespects to the Navy Blue Dress Coat except for fabric, w'isconstructed at the request of Ms. Sirvart Mellian. Construc- Ition problems of all the garments were analyzed in preparationfor the documentation that the project team was going topresent.

At the fit test on February 20th, with Ms. Sirvart Mellian(NCTRF) present, it was determined that the skirts and thewhite belted slacks were ready for duplication in Regular andWomen's sizes, but the waistline of the dress slacks was stilla little high in front and needed adjustment. Also, the dresscoat needed further adjustment at the underarm.

Since the white belted slacks with the side pockets wereflattering and relatively simple to produce, the F.I.T./AAMTD Iproject team agreed to Ms. Mellian's suggestion to develop a

white skirt with the same styling, even though this was not apart of the project contract. Subsequently, Professor Kondedraped the skirt in muslin and Professor Lupia developed theinitial paper pattern. The skirt was draped with the sameside pocket as the slacks. The waistline dart, however, waschanged to a small pleat. This skirt was also cut for Size10 Regular height in Junior, Regular, and Women's hip widths.

131

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Novy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix III

After the fit test, the skirt and slacks patterns were digi-tized into the Gerber Accu-Mark 300 System. Markers weregenerated and the samples were cut on the Gerber cutting systemat the F.I.T./AAMTD facility.

In order to develop a truly well fitting and well tailoreddress coat, it was decided to have the dress coat prototypesdeveloped in a professional sample room that specializes inwomen's tailored garments. Harve Benard, Ltd., a firm thatspecializes in this type of apparel was chosen for the exer-cise. Mr. Bernard Holzman, owner and designer, agreed toproduce the prototypes for the Size 10 Regular height Junior,Regular, and Women's dress coats and to make any correctionsto the patterns that might be necessary.

MARCH 1990. During the first two weeks of the month of March,the modified sample garments of the Women's Dress Uniforms werecompleted. The sample room personnel at Harve Benard, Ltd.completed 3 dress coats in size 10, Regular height: one eachin Junior, Regular, and Women's cuts, according to our instr-uctions. The coats retained the traditional collar, lapel,and breast pocket flaps, as well as the placement of the frontbuttons. The fit of the coats was modified according to theagreement which had been reached at the October 18, 1989meeting at NCTRF. Darts were eliminated to provide a sil-houette more consistent with current style and one that wouldbe easier to fit and alter, and also one that would be lesscomplicated to produce.

The new white, belted skirt with side pockets, as well as thealtered slacks, were completed at the F.I.T./Advanced ApparelManufacturing Technology Development facility.On March 14, with Ms. Sirvart Mellian present, the samples wereshown on student models. Ms. Mellian subsequently took thesamples to NCTRF in Natick for further evaluation.

After the samples were evaluated at NCTRF, the project team wasasked to develop slacks that were more form-fitting. Newpatterns for the slacks were developed and samples were againcut and constructed. The slacks were made up in both navypolyester/wool tropical cloth and white textured polyesterfabric. These new samples were submitted to NCTRF for evalua-tion.

132

IIAppendix III Navy Women's Dress Uniforms IWe were also asked to develop and submit another side pocketskirt in which the pleat at the waistline was replaced with adart, another request that was outside the terms of our con-tract. However, we honored this request and submitted thesamples to Ms. Mellian for her further interest and informa-tion. m

Since more than fifteen (15) days had elapsed since its submi-ssion to NCTRF and we had not been advised to the contrary, weassumed that there were no corrections necessary on the six-gore Navy Blue Dress Skirt. We, therefore, proceeded to gradethis garment.

APRIL 1990. During the first half of the month of April,work on the project was at a virtual stand-still as the projectteam waited for NCTRF to comment on the latest prototypesthat had been submitted to them for evaluation late in March.During that period, however, we continued to digitize thepatterns for the Navy Dress Skirt and the Navy Dress Slacks Ibecause we had not been advised of any problems with theseitems at previous F.I.T. fittings or within the fifteen (15)day period for comments following their submissions and we Ifelt the pressure of our commitment to meet the May 30, 1990completion date.

On Thursday, April 12th, Ms. Mellian telephoned with theresults of the NCTRF evaluation. The project team was ins-tructed as follows.

1. The Navy Blue Dress Coat, incorporating the shoulder fitof the new prototype, was to be fitted close to the body withdarts as in the original sample. The pocket flaps were to be ireplaced with a simulated welt pocket.

2. The design of the White Skirt (textured polyester) withside pockets was to be modified so that the pocket openingwould begin 1-3/4" from the side seam at the waistline andwould end 5" down from the waistline at the side seam. Thepocket itself was to be small and rounded. Elastic at the Iwaistline was to be eliminated.

3. The Navy Blue Dress Skirt was to be redeveloped without anypocket and witb no elastic at the waistband.

4. The White Belted Slacks (polyester/cotton) were to have thewidth of the extension at the center front placket reduced.

5. The Navy Dress Slacks were approved for grading.

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i Navy Women's Dress Uniforms Appendix III

On April 17th, we faxed a memorandum to Ms. Mellian asking forwritten verification of the above instructions. We pointed outthat the new design modifications requested in items 1, 2 & 3negated the agreement regarding our design proposals that werereached at the F.I.T./NCTRF meeting of October 18, 1989.

We also pointed out that the side pocket skirt was not includedin the original contract and that we had only informally agreedto proceed with that item when we thought we had more time forproject completion.

Our fax message further explained that the new design modifi-cations required us to repeat work that should have beencompleted in December 1989, and that the requests for designmodifications were in conflict with the first two requirementsof the original Statement of Work that said, "The only changesshould be that the patterns be manipulated and graded toimprove fit, simplify alteration and sized according to thegovernment furnished anthropometric and demographic data of1988."

i We further pointed out that due to the limitations of ourfunding and the proximity of the required project completiondate we could not proceed with any further design changes.We asked for rectification of the situation and requestedthat Ms. Mellian contact us for further discussion.

When we telephoned NCTRF on April 18th to ascertain receipt ofthe faxed memo, Ms. Mellian was not available, and we had noresponse to the memo until Noah Brenner, F.I.T./AAMTD ResearchCoordinator, followed up on April 23rd with a letter to Com-mander W.E. Johnson at NCTRF.

It was not until April 30th that a telephone call to F.I.T./-AAMTD from Mr. Harry Winer of NCTRF resolved the situation byauthorizing us to proceed as follows.

- Navy Blue Dress Slacks: Approved for grading as submitted.- Navy Blue Dress Coat: Last submitted sample approved forgrading as submitted.- Navy Blue SiX-Gore Dress Skirt: Approved for grading assubmitted.- White Belted Skirt: Approved for grading as submitted.- White Belted Slacks: Reduce the width of the extension atthe front placket and proceed with grading.- White Skirt with Side Pockets: All further work is to bediscontinued.

134

I

Appendix I1! Navy Women's Dress Uniforms

We were also instructed to revise our Program Schedule chartaccordingly and to have it reflect a new and reasonable time-table for completion of the project.

MAY 1990. In the month of May, work proceeded on the reprod- Iuction of the prototypes. Our first task was to grade theNavy Blue Dress Slacks into the sizes specified by NCTRF, atotal of 60 sizes. Since the Gerber AM-5 Systems at F.I.T.ace used by students at all times, the original work for thisproject was done on a Gerber Accu--Mark 300 system. When allwork was completed, the data on the floppy disk was convertedonto a Gerber AM-5 streamer cassette tape as required by theproject.

After grading the Navy Blue Dress Slacks, markers were gener- mated and the prototypes were cut in the F.I.T./Advanced ApparelManufacturing Technology Demonstration facility. Work com-menced on the analysis and documentation of production methods. IThe cut prototypes were then bundled and sent to Fifth AvenueClassics for the sewing and finishing operations.

Work was also begun on the grading and marker making of theNavy Blue Dress Skirt.

Original patterns were also developed for the Tall and Petite msizes of the Navy Blue Dress Coat. Samples were cut by handand sent to Fifth Avenue Classics for fabrication.

JUNE 1990. In the month of June, work proceeded on the deve-lopment of the prototypes. The Navy Blue Dress Slacks werecompleted by the contractor. An inspection system was deve-loped, and the pants were measured and inspected at the F.I.T.-/AAMTD facility. Size designations and measurements wererecorded on hang tags attached to each garment. 3The markers for the Navy Blue Six-Gore Dress Skirt prototypeswere developed and cutter tapes were generated. These skirtswere cut, sent to the contractor, and completed by the end of Ithe month.m

The White Belted Slacks and the White Belted Skirt patternswere digitized, graded, and the markers were developed. Theprototypes were cut and were sent to the contractor for thesewing operations.

During the fabrication of the first samples of the Tall andPetite size 10 prototypes of the Navy Blue Dress Coat thecontrdctor discovered some discrepancies in the patterns.Subsequently, corrections to facilitate production were made,and the patterns were prepared for grading.

135 II

I


I As work progressed, production methoas were analyzed and docu-mented.

I JULY 1990. Several program milestones were concluded duringJuly. All patterns were digitized and plotted. Magnetictape cassettes were generated. All necessary markers weredeveloped and the cutting of prototypes was completed.

The fabrication of prototypes proceeded, but with several unan-ticipated delays. The failure of air conditioning equipmentin the F.I.T./AAMTD laboratory and the subsequent heat in thefacility required the shut-down of the computerized cuttingequipment on several occasions so that the cutting of theWomen's Navy Blue Dress Coat could not be completed beforethe last day of the month.

The sewing of the White Belted Slacks was completed in a timelyfashion. The contractor, however, encountered some difficultyin handling the 100% polyester fabric of the White BeltedSkirt. Nevertheless, the skirts were also completed anddelivered by the end of the month.

As prototypes were completed they were measured, labeled, andinspected at the F.I.T./AAMTD laboratory prior to final pres-sing.

As work progressed, production methods continued to be analyzedand documented.

AUGUST 1990. All program milestones that were scheduled forcompletion in August were successfully concluded.

The Navy Blue Dress Coat samples were fabricated and deliveredto the F.I.T/AAMTD laboratory where production methods wereanalyzed and documented. This concluded the documentationprocess, arid a complete Description of Construction Methodsand Sequence was prepared by Josef Korngruen.

After all finished prototypes were inspected and occasionalminor flaws corrected, the prototypes were packed and shippedto the Navy Training Center in Orlando, Florida.

During the period of August 20 to 24, F.I.T. Professors HildeJaffe and Lita Konde participated in a fit test of the proto-types on Navy women. The fit test was scheduled at the NavyTraining Center in Orlando for two weeks, from August 20 to

I 136

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Appendix III Navy Women's Dress Uniforms I31. Unavoidably, the beginning of the Fall semester at F.I.T.on August 27 prevented the participation of F.I.T. personnelafter August 24. Nevertheless, we were able to observe thereaction of 89 Navy women subjects as they tried on andevaluated the various garments.

Each subject tried on 10 garments, 5 garments developed byF.I.T./AAMTD and 5 garments developed independently by NCTRF.The F.I.T./AAMTD garments were developed, as per our contract,according to the new sizing specifications developed by theNavy and with NCTRF-approved styling modifications that pro-vided improved fit for more body types, easier and less expen- msive alterations where necessary, and contemporary productionmethods. The NCTRF garments were developed according to thenew sizing specifications also, but with no style modifica- Itions.

Garments were evaluated by the Navy women subjects, byMs. Sirvart Mellian of the NCTRF, and by Prof. Hilde Jaffe irepresenting F.I.T./AAMTD.

Throughout the first week of testing, visitors observed the Itry-on and evaluation procedure. Observers present on Thurs-day, August 23 were: Carmen A. Dippolito, MCLB; Martha L.McCagg, U.S. Army; Debra J. Klensch, HSD/YAGC; Peg Altenay iHSD/YAGC; Kathleen Robinette, AAMRL/'HEG; Patrick Cooke, CoastGuard; Helen Kerlin, DLA; and Harry Winer, NCTRF.

Preliminary results of the evaluations (based on the first week iof the fit test) indicated that the new sizing system wassuccessful in virtually eliminating the need for alterations,and both the Navy women subjects and the professionals present Iindicated significant preference for the F.I.T. versions ofthe Navy Blue Dress Slacks, the Navy Blue Dress Skirt, theWhite Belted (polyester/cotton) Slacks, and the White Belted ISkirt. Although the majority of the evaluators indicated apreference for the F.I.T./AAMTD Navy Blue Dress Coat, therewas a considerable number of women who preferred the closefit of the traditional Dress Coat developed by NCTRF.

SEPTEMBER 1990. The research team could not immediatelycomplete its final tasks since these were dependent on decis- Iions to be made by NCTRF regarding the outcome of the fittest conducted in August. Since these decisions were notmade available during the month to the F.I.T./AAMTD projectteam, no project work was able to be performed in September.

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OCTOBER 1990. The research team could still not complete itsfinal tasks since decisions by NCTRF arising from the Augustfit tests at the Navy Training Center in Orlando, Florida

i were still not available.

NOVEMBER 1990. Work continued to be suspended throughoutmost of November pending the NCTRF decisions to the Augustfit tests in Orlando. During the last week of the month,however, we were notified by NCTRF that there were no furthergarment modifications required and that we were to proceedwith the completion of all remaining project tasks.

DECEMBER 1990. In addition to the notification from NCTRF thatno further modifications of pattf.rns were necessary the projectteam was also given permission to submit all patterns to NCTRFon magnetic tale compatible with the Gerber AM-5 and Accu-Mark 300 system. This was in lieu of the originally requiredpreparation of hard paper patterns. We thereupon entered thefinal phase of the project.

All garment patterns were again checked prior to conversion ofthe magnetic tape to the AM-5 system and minor pattern dis-crepancies that had surfaced during the sewing process werecorrected. The actual conversion of the tape was accomplishedby Gerber Garment Technology, Inc., South Windsor, CT. Theconverted data was then entered on the AM-5 system at F.I.T./AAMTD and the final checking and plotting of the patterns wasbegun. Unfortunately, the work had to be interrupted at thispoint because Ms. Williams, the project pattern grader,required surgery and was hospitalized.

JANUARY 1991. The uncompleted final plotting and checking ofthe converted pattern tapes was completed by Ms. Laura Nugent,a member of the Apparel Production Management Department atF.I.T. Thus, the project team was able to complete the finaltasks of project work.

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