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EXPRESS ASSEMBLY MANUAL SECTION 3 F5-RG/FT WING ASSEMBLY

©2000 Express Aircraft Co LLC Rev. 7/10 Page 3.010-1

Procedure 3.010A

INTRODUCTION

In this procedure…

You will construct both wings, starting with the left wing. The work will include

assembling the wing structure, installation of controls, fuel system, miscellaneous

systems, and finally, wing closeout. When the left wing is completed, it will be

placed out of the way, so that the right wing can be constructed.

WHAT YOU NEED TO DO FIRST

Before starting construction on the wing, you should order any parts that are not included in the

kit that you will need during these procedures. Ordering now will assure that the parts are

available for installation when needed. You can order these parts directly from Express Aircraft,

or shop around. Following is a list of the parts needed during wing, construction, their quantities,

and whether they are mandatory.

PARTS TO BE ORDERED:

Mandatory Description Qty

Yes Fuel Sending Unit 2

Yes Pitot-Static Unit 1

Yes Antenna 1

No Navigation/Strobe Lights 2



Step 1. WING JIG SAWHORSE ASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION:

Sawhorses of specific dimensions are required for supporting the wing saddle jigs. Four are

required per wing, and the same four can be used for each wing. Material quantities given are

for 4 sawhorses. You can cut all of the parts at once, but we suggest you assemble one at a

time.

MATERIALS:

Description Qty

1” x 4” Fir, 8' length (3/4" x 3 1/2" actual) 10 3/8" Grade A Plywood, 4' x 4' 1

Leg 16

Outer Gusset 8

Lower Cap 8

Inner Gusset 8

Main Web 4

Galvanized Box Nail, 5d, 1 1/4 length 144

Drywall Screw, #8, 1 1/2" length 16

Wood Glue

PROCEDURE:

A. Cut the gussets out of plywood.

B. Cut the legs, lower caps, and main web from 1” x 4” fir. Bevel both ends of the legs, making

both bevels parallel. Bevel both ends of the lower caps, making bevels in opposite directions.


©2000 Express Aircraft Co LLC Rev. 7/10 .010-3

Fig. 10.1 Dimensions of Sawhorse Parts

Fig. 10.2 Wing Sawhorse Dimensions



C. Glue and nail the outer gussets to the legs.

Fig. 10.3

D. Glue and nail the lower caps to the outer gussets and legs.

Fig. 10.4



E. Apply glue to the sawhorse main web where it meets the outer gussets and lower caps. Nail the

outer gussets to the ends of the web. Screw the web to the lower caps, using drywall screws.

Fig. 10.5

F. Glue and nail the inner gussets to the legs and lower caps.

Fig. 10.6



Step 2. WING SADDLE JIG ASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION:

Before the wing can be constructed, it must be supported in a jig. The wing saddle jig consists of

four saddles contoured to fit the upper wing skin. These are attached to the wing sawhorses, which

are then aligned and glued to the floor. The templates provided are used to cut and drill the saddles

to shape. The saddles are good for the left and right wing jigs, so only one set of four (4) is

required.

MATERIALS:

Description Part No. Qty

Wing Jig Saddle 1 Template 111-19-001 1




3/4" Plywood, 4'x 5‟ minimum

Adhesive Spray

Sand Paper

TOOLS:

Jigsaw or Band Saw

Drill Motor and 1/4" Dia. Drill Bit



PROCEDURE:

A. Cut out each template approximately 1/2" outside the lines.

B. Arrange the templates on the plywood so the least amount of wood is wasted, but so each

template is accessible with the saw. If using a 4'x 5‟ sheet of plywood, use the suggested layout in

the illustration. (Fig. 10.7)

Fig. 10.7 LAYOUT OF TEMPLATES ON PLYWOOD

EXPRESS ASSEMBLY MANUAL SECTION 3 WING ASSEMBLY


C. Spray adhesive spray on the plywood for one saddle, and on back of one template, and let it

get tacky to the touch. Attach the template to the plywood. Repeat for each saddle.

D. Cut out each template using a jigsaw. Cut as close as possible to the lines, leaving all lines

visible.

E. Sand the edges of the saddles that meet the wing skin, so that the edge is on the line of the

template, and no dips or bumps can be felt in the saddle.

F. Drill the holes located on each template, using a 1/4" drill bit. Leave the template on the

saddle after cut out, as the information printed on the template will be needed later.

Step 3. LEFT WING SADDLE JIG ASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION:

After the wing jig saddles are completed, they are attached to the wing sawhorses. The

sawhorses are then located and attached to the floor.

MATERIALS:

Description Part No. Qty

Wing Sawhorse Assembly Builder Supplied 4

Wing Jig Saddle 1 111-19-001 1




Upper Wing Assembly, Left 111-11-050-01 1

Bolt, ¼ -20 x 2 Builder Supplied 8

Washer ¼” Builder Supplied 8

Nut, 1411-20 Builder Supplied 8

Hot Glue Builder Supplied

Wood Blocks Builder Supplied

TOOLS:

Chalk Line Measuring Tape Plumb Bob Drill Bit 1/4"

Marker 2' Carpenters Square Hot Glue Gun Carpenters Level

Masking Tape Spring Clamp (2) Drill Motor Wrench 7/16 (2)



A. To draw location lines on floor, snap a 13-foot long chalk line on the floor to represent the

main spar centerline. Allow at least 3-feet clearance from each end of the line to any wall. Also

allow 4-feet clearance to either side of the line. Starting 12" In from one end of the line make four

marks along the centerline with a marker, spaced 44.7" apart. Label them saddle 1 through saddle

4 consecutively, with saddle 1 being the inboard saddle. (Fig. 10.8)

Using a 2‟ carpenters square

and a marker. Make four-4‟

lines perpendicular to the

centerline through the saddle

location marks. These are the

location lines for the saddles,

which you will use to align the

sawhorses, so mark them

visibly. Also make a mark on

each 4‟ line where the spar

centerline intersects. These

marks will be used later for the

right wing, as the chalk line

may have faded in time.

Fig. 10.8

B. To attach saddle 1 to sawhorse, locate saddle 1 and one sawhorse. Center the saddle

approximately on the sawhorse web with the template side out. Allow the bottom of the saddle to

hang 1/2" below the bottom of the web. Using 2 spring clamps, clamp saddle 1 to the sawhorse

web, leaving clearance to drill the holes. The leading edge (Forward) should be to the left as you

face the saddle/sawhorse assembly from the saddle side. Drill one of the 1/4" holes through the

saddle hole, and into the sawhorse web. Attach finger tight with a bolt, washer, and nut.



C. To place saddle 1 sawhorse on location lines, spring clamp the plumb bob string to the spar

centerline marked on the template, allowing the plumb bob to hang to the floor. Locate the saddle

and sawhorse parallel to the saddle 1 location line, so the plumb bob is at the saddle 1 mark. The

saddle should be on the side of the sawhorse web away from the other saddle lines. (Fig. 10.9)

Line up the saddle with the saddle 1 location line by checking with the plumb bob at different

points. When the saddle and sawhorse are aligned, hot glue the sawhorse legs to the floor. To

prevent accidental kicks that may loosen a sawhorse leg, hot glue some small scraps of wood such

as 1 x 2 up against each leg.

Fig. 10.9

D. Make one more check with the level on the bottom edge of the saddle. If it is not level, loosen

the spring clamp, adjust, and re-clamp. Drill the second hole through the saddle hole and into the

sawhorse web. Attach with bolt, washer, and nut, and tighten both nuts securely with a wrench.

E. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for saddle 4. Make sure that the saddle is mounted on the same side

of the sawhorse as saddle 1, and that the leading edge (Forward) is at the same end.



F. To set up saddles 2 and 3, locate saddle 2 and one sawhorse. Center the saddle approximately

on the sawhorse web with the template side out. Allow the bottom of the saddle to hang 1/2"

below the bottom of the web. Using 2 spring clamps, clamp saddle 2 to the sawhorse web. Spring

clamp the plumb bob string to the spar centerline marked on the template, letting the plumb bob

hang to the floor. Locate the saddle and sawhorse parallel to the saddle 2-location line, so the

plumb bob is at the saddle 2 mark. The saddle should be on the side of the sawhorse web away

from the other saddle lines.

Line up the saddle with the saddle 2-location line by checking with the plumb bob at different

points. When the saddle and sawhorse are aligned, hot glue the sawhorse legs to the floor. Now

remove the clamped saddle. Repeat for saddle 3. (Fig. 10.10)

Fig. 10.10



G. It‟s time now to place upper wing skin on saddles 1 and 4. Place a strip of electrical tape on

the edge of saddle 1 and 4 where the wing skin will make contact to prevent scratches.

To locate the wing skin on the jig, you will use the center of the main spar, and the rib G-

location line. On models built after year 2000, a reference line has been scribed into the spar cap

at BL (Butt Line) 36.00, from which you will measure a given distance. Take all measurements

along the center of the top spar cap. BL 36.00 will be approximately 34” from the inboard end

of the main spar. To find the rib G-location centerline, measure 140.00" outboard from BL 36.00

and label it BL 176.00.

With at least one person at each end, invert the left upper wing skin and place it in the jig. The

center of the main spar should line up with the main spar centerlines on saddles 1 and 4. The rib G-

location line should line up directly above saddle 4.

H. To setup saddles 2 and 3, place a strip of electrical tape on the edge of saddle 2. Get under the

wing skin and position saddle 2 in place. Slide it along the sawhorse web until the most contact is

made with the wing skin, put a slight amount of upward pressure on it, and clamp it in place. The

lower edge should be approximately level. Drill both holes through the saddle holes and into the

sawhorse web. Attach with bolt, washer, and nut and tighten both nuts securely with a wrench.

Repeat for saddle 3.

I. Anchor jig to floor. The easiest, non-destructive (floor) method is Bondo.

Apply Bondo to sawhorse feet & floor. When finished, sand off!!

Other methods: Lag bolt, Anchor bolt, and/or bracket and screws.

J. Secure wing assemblies to sawhorses.

Methods:

(A) Hot glue between saddles & skin.

(B) Bondo between saddles and skin.

(C) 1-1/2” wood screws through fwd. joggle & saddles, and aft trailing edge &

saddles. (4 places ea.)

*Now you are ready to begin left wing assembly (Step 5, This section), starting with

installation of forward and aft shearwebs. Upon completion of the left wing, you will

return to the following right wing saddle jig assembly instructions.



Step 4. RIGHT WING SADDLE JIG ASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION:

When the left wing is completed and stored out of the way, the left wing jig can be modified for

the right wing, the saddles can remain bolted to the sawhorses. The sawhorses must be pried from

the floor and relocated. Also, the level of each saddle must be checked, and corrected if

necessary.

PROCEDURE:

A. Pry the sawhorses from the floor. Label the location lines on the floor in the opposite in the

opposite direction as the left wing layout (i.e. saddle 1 becomes saddle 4; saddle 2 becomes

saddle 3; etc.).

B. To place saddle 1 on location lines, locate saddle 1 and its sawhorse. Spring clamp the plumb

bob string to the spar centerline marked on the template, allowing the plumb bob to hang to the

floor. Locate the saddle and sawhorse parallel to the saddle 1 location line, so the plumb bob is at

the saddle1 mark. The saddle should be on the side of the sawhorse web toward the other saddle

lines. The leading edge (Forward) should be to the left as you face the saddle/sawhorse assembly

from the saddle side. (Fig. 10.11)

Fig. 10.11



Line up the saddle with the saddle 1 location line by checking with the plumb bob at different

points. When the saddle and sawhorse are aligned, hot glue the sawhorse legs to the floor. To

prevent accidental kicks that may loosen a sawhorse leg, hot glue some small scraps of wood such

as 1” x 2” up against each leg.

C. Level and tighten saddle 1. Check with the level on the bottom edge of the saddle. If it is not

level, loosen the bolts, removing one bolt completely. Level the bottom edge of the saddle, and

clamp in place. Drill a 1/4" hole through the saddle and sawhorse web, approximately 1" in from

the obsolete hole. Attach with a bolt, washer, and nut, and tighten both nuts securely with a

wrench.

D. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for saddle 4. Make sure that the saddle is mounted on the same side of

the sawhorse as saddle 1, and that the leading edge (Forward) is at the same end.

E. To set up saddle 2 and 3, locate saddle 2 and its attached sawhorse. Spring clamp the plumb

bob string to the spar centerline marked on the template, allowing the plumb bob to hang to the

floor. Locate the saddle and sawhorse parallel to the saddle 2-location line, so the plumb bob is at

the saddle 2 mark. Line up the saddle with the saddle 2-location line by checking with the plumb

bob at different points. When the saddle and sawhorse are aligned, hot glue the sawhorse legs to

the floor. Remove the clamped saddle from the sawhorse. Repeat for saddle 3.

F. To locate the wing skin on the jig, you will use the center of the main spar, and the rib G-

location line. On models built after year 2000, a reference line has been scribed into the spar cap

at BL (Butt Line) 36.00, from which you will measure a given distance. Take all measurements

along the center of the top spar cap. BL 36.00 will be approximately 34” from the inboard end

of the main spar. To find the rib G-location centerline, measure 140.00" outboard from BL 36.00

and label it BL 176.00. With at least one person at each end, invert the left upper wing skin and

place it in the jig. The center of the main spar should line up with the main spar centerlines on

saddles 1 and 4. The rib G location line should line up directly above saddle 4.

G. To set up saddles 2 and 3, get under the wing skin and place saddle 2 in place. Slide it along

the sawhorse web until the most contact is made with the wing skin, put a slight amount of upward

pressure on it, and clamp it in place. The lower edge should be approximately level. Drill 2 holes

approximately 1" in toward the center from the existing holes, through the saddle and sawhorse

web. Attach with bolt, washer, and nut, and tighten both nuts securely with a wrench. Repeat for

saddle 3.



H. Anchor jig to floor in same manner as left wing.

I. Secure wing assemblies to sawhorses in same manner as left wing

*Now you are ready to begin right wing assembly, starting with installation of forward

and aft shearwebs.

Step 5. BEGIN WING ASSEMBLY

For this procedure, the following parts will be required:

Materials: ½” 5lb. foam 2 core 2 pre-lam (Shearwebs).

Step 4. Part Number Description

Quantity

111-11-051/052 Forward Shearweb 2

111-11-055/056 Aft Shearweb 2

½” 40 lb. foam 40 lb. Foam Hardpoints 9

A. Locate forward and aft shearweb locations.

1) From Centerline mark on spar cap, at BL 176 (Outboard joggle), measure 14 ¼” towards

forward edge of skin and 6 ½” towards aft and make respective marks. Now move to inboard end

of wing assembly. From centerline of spar cap, at BL 20.00, measure 18 ¾” towards forward

joggle area, and 20 ¾” towards aft, and make respective marks. Next, snap chalk line forward

and aft, end-to-end, lengthwise. Overwrite snapped line with felt pen to indicate location of

shearwebs, clearly.

2) Prep 3” to 4” wide strip, lengthwise at each shearweb location, or line, to bond shearwebs to

skin. Also prep forward and aft surfaces of shearwebs, 2” up from bonded edges, on front and

back edges of shearwebs, for shearweb tie-in laminates.



3) Prior to cutting shearwebs to length and height, it is preferable to butt-splice (join end-to-end)

the pieces of the forward and aft shearwebs at a butt line (BL) common to a rib location i.e. BL

91.12. For this purpose, apply 2 layers of 3” tapes. Overlap splice. Allow to cure and then install

rib. This strengthens the joint with rib installation.

Note: Do not trim shearweb height until after glassed in (B-2, this section). Then snap line end-

to-end and trim.

4) Using a bubble level, plumb and anchor webs in place with hot glue. (Fig 10.12). Locate

forward shearweb on forward side of marked line from BL 179.00 (Wing tip joggle) to inboard

skin E.O.P. Locate aft shearweb on aft side of marked line from wing tip joggle to inboard E.O.P.

Fig. 10.12



5) Q-Cell both sides of forward and aft shearwebs at contact area, along entire span.

6) Cut dozens of 3” wide, 45˚ bias ply tapes off of 50” wide, 7781 fiberglass cloth. Roll up and

store in shoebox or equiv.

*SHOP TIP*

To help hold shearwebs in position during hot gluing and Q-Cell operation, evenly space small

1”x 4” boards between spar caps and shearwebs. Place heavy objects in center of boards.

(Fig. 10.13)

Fig. 10.13

Allow Q-Cell to “cure” before continuing!

Note: Extra tapes, not used now, will be used later - i.e. Rib Install.

7) Prep forward and aft shearwebs for Laminates. Each wing will also need (4)

6” x 60” strips of uni-directional cloth and (2) 8” x 62” 7781 tapes, or rolls, along with 3” rolls.

8) Prior to laminates, with Q-Cell radius hardened, layout rib locations at this time. Locate BL

36.00 on spar cap. Approx. 34” from inboard end of spar will be a line scribed into spar. This

will be your reference line (BL 36.00) throughout the wing assembly. *Do Not Sand Or

Remove This Line*

9) From BL 36, measure inboard on spar cap 12 ½” and mark on cap. Placing the long tail of

framing square against the spar cap edge, mark a line 90 to the spar, similar to BL 36. This will

now be BL 23.50, where inboard ribs „I‟ (fwd.) and „J‟ (aft) will be located. Starting at inboard

end of spar, stretch measuring tape toward outboard end. Align 36” on the measuring tape with

BL 36 on the spar cap and tape in place. Using framing square, mark lines 90 to spar centerline

at the following locations: BL 55.25, BL 74.50, BL 91.21, BL 117.34, BL 143.34, and BL 176.00



at wing tip. Using a large square, extend these lines to forward and aft shearwebs, 90 to spar cap

centerline. Squaring off skin, draw lines from top of shearwebs down inside faces to skin. Locate

and mark BL 71.00 on spar cap and forward shearweb only (Landing light box). With all Butt

lines located and transferred to shearwebs, locate BL 76.00, 1.5” outboard of BL 74.50, on inside

face of forward and aft shearwebs. Squaring off skin, draw line from top of shearwebs down

inside faces to skin. Prep-sand forward and aft, inside shearweb faces, all the way from BL 76.00

to inboard end of part. This is for the 6“ x 60” uni-directional tapes and 7781 8” x 62” tapes.

Gently sand Q-Cell radii on inside shearwebs for Step 2.

B. Forward and aft shearweb laminates.

1) From BL 74.50, outboard to wing tip, apply (2) 3” tapes to inside radius of shearwebs 1.5” up

web and 1.5” onto skin.

2) From BL 75.00 to inboard end of shearwebs, apply 2 layers each, forward and aft, of 6” x 60”

uni-directional tape onto inside face of shearwebs to radius at wing skin. Finish each shearweb

with (1) layer of 7781 applied over entire uni-directional tape layers, overlapping radius 1.5” to

2” onto wing skin and extending approx. 1” beyond outboard end of uni-directional tape layers.

All laminates on inside of forward and aft shearwebs are now complete (Fig 10.14).

Fig. 10.14



*Note: Outside Uni-Lams will be applied during close-out operation.

Allow to cure and then trim shearwebs before continuing.

Shearweb trimming widths:

Station Forward Aft

Outboard BL 176 4.30” 4.00”

Middle BL 91.21 5.00” 5.30”

Inboard BL 23.50 5.75” 6.30”

*Note: Because of differing wing sizes, ribs may need to be “custom fit” or sanded to fit.

This is completely normal. The tops of the ribs will trimmed down when the lower wing

skin is fitted to the wing assemblies.



C. Rib location, fit, and installation.

1) Identify all spar cap locations and transfer lines to wing skin, spar and inside shearwebs for

rib locations.

*Note: Prior to positioning ribs in place, prep-sand ribs for tie-in laminates1 ½” up from areas of

contact or tie-in areas. Prep-sand skin, shearweb, under spar cap, and inside spar web face at all

locations, fore and aft.

Ribs are identified by letter and part number and are located as follows:

Butt line Rib Letter Part No. Location

BL 23.50 Rib I 111-12-013 Fwd.

Rib J 111-12-002 Aft

BL 36.00 Rib Q 111-12-016 Fwd.

Rib R 111-12-017 Aft

BL 55.25 Rib M 111-12-007 Fwd.

Rib O 111-12-007-1 Aft

BL 74.50 Rib A 111-12-003 Fwd.

Rib B 111-12-004 Aft

BL 91.12 Rib D 111-12-006 Fwd.

Rib D-1 (New) 111-12-006A Aft

BL 117.34 Rib E 111-12-008 Fwd.

Rib C 111-12-005 Aft

BL 143.34 Rib F 111-12-010 Fwd.

Rib F-1 (New) 111-12-010A Aft

BL 176.00 Rib G 111-12-011 Fwd.

Rib H 111-12-012 Aft



2) Begin “dry-fitting”* ribs in place. Trim as necessary to fit ribs at marked locations, with ribs

centered on BL marks-snug, not tight. Open up or enlarge fuel passage vent holes as necessary.

Then seal foam-core that will be exposed to fuel by brushing resin and Q-Cell mixture onto

foam. Allow to soak in and then repeat.

Do not brush resin onto rib bond/contact areas on top and bottom, fore and aft locations on ribs.

Just coat the half-circle cutouts.

*Dry-fitting = Test fitting part in and out of position until desired shape is achieved.

3) Now remove ribs. Hot glue or dot contact spots on spar web, skin, and shearweb. Use square

to position rib 90 to skin and 90 to centerline of spar cap, centering on BL lines. Hold in

position with square until glue cools to leave stationary. When ready, mix Q-Cell and apply

radius to all ribs, inboard, outboard, fore, and aft. (Fig. 10.15)

*Note: It is preferable to use a resin, Cabosil, milled-fiber mixture on aft, inboard, main gear ribs

at BL 23.50 and BL 36.00. These ribs are stronger than the rest. They are made of 40 lb. foam

6 core 6 pre-lam and carry most of the load of your airplane.

Fig. 10.15 Apply Q-Cell with stir stick and use as a radius tool

*Shop Tip:

Brush lightly with acetone to smooth out before applying laminates.



4) Begin applying tie-in laminates.

*Note: It is OK to begin applying tie-in laminates to ribs while Q-Cell is still in curing stage. Just

don‟t push, or force out, Q-Cell when working it. Otherwise light prep-sand of Q-Cell is

suggested after it has cured, prior to applying tie-in laminates.

5) Begin tie-in laminates on ribs. The following procedure is for all wing rib installations with

the exception of main landing gear ribs BL 23.50 and BL 36.00.

a) To apply laminates to ribs, apply 3“ rolled-up tapes, cutting lengths off rolls, as needed as

you go. Apply laminates to overlap rib and to bonding surfaces i.e. wing skin, shearweb, spar

web, and spar cap, 1.5” as shown in Fig. 10.16. Use continuous tapes on aft ribs.

For fuel cell ribs, cut laminates in between vent holes. Fig.10.17.

Fig. 10.16

Fig. 10.17



b) Main landing gear rib installation.

For this procedure, the following parts will be required:

Part Number Location Qty

111-12-002 (Rib J) BL 23.50 1

111-12-016 (Rib R) BL 36.00 1

Prep-sand inboard and outboard sides of rib R and aft BL 36.00 (Face) and outboard side of rib J

BL 23.50. “Dry-fit” (Sand-to-Fit) at marked locations. Hot glue or dot contact spots on spar web,

skin, and shearweb. Use square to position rib 90 to skin and 90 to centerline of spar cap,

centering on BL lines. Hold in position with square until glue cools to leave stationary.

Note: You will construct rib R flange during Procedure 3.030A, Pg. 3.030-1.

c) Rib R, J, and I reinforcement laminates

Using resin, Cabosil, milled-fiber mixture, radius ribs R and J at all contact areas and cut full-size

plies as follows:

Note: Fabricate rib flange/cap prior to laminates. Section 3.030

Aft BL 36.00 (Rib R) 6 plies inboard

6 plies outboard

Aft BL 23.50 (Rib J) 6 plies outboard only

Fwd BL 23.50 (Rib I) 4 plies outboard only

* Shop Tip

Use meat packer paper or equiv. to position against rib and press into radii with fingers to

mark outline of rib. Then leave excess where required on overlap areas using paper

drawing as a template for cloth. See Figs. 10.18 and 10.19 below.



Fig. 10.18

Fig. 10.19



d) Applying tie-in laminates

Cut all laminates, stack and label where they go. Do one side at a time. Suggest using 100-150

grs. Resin at any one time. Gives you time to manipulate plies without resin curing too fast.

Yes!! This is a challenge----GOOD LUCK.

Take your time if necessary. After each successful laminate, you can wait until that ply is “tacky”

enough to not peel off. Then you can mix a new batch of resin and continue one-at-a-time to

achieve quality “lay-up”. Approximately 15-20 minutes Should suffice.

*BREAK TIME*

When finished with tie-in laminates, take a deep breath

and pat yourself and your helpers on the back!

This is a major step.

ENJOY!



D. Hardpoint insert installation (Typical both wings).

1. Install forward shearweb hardpoints. There are (4) hardpoints (40 lb. ½” foam) on the

forward shearweb as follows:

Forward inboard BL 27.50 inboard to wing skin E.O.P. or more.

Approx. Size = 5.75”H x 9.0”W.

This is your forward shear tie, wing attach point.

Forward outboard BL 34.00 to BL 38.00.

Size = 5.5”H x 4.0”W.

This is your inboard aileron bellcrank location.


Size = 5.0”H x 4.0”W

This is your mid-wing aileron bellcrank location.


Size = 4.0”H x 6.5”

This is your outboard aileron bellcrank location.

Using a large square mark these BL lines onto top of shearweb. Next, using a square, mark on

forward face of forward shearweb, all above locations, 90 off skin. At BL mark, draw a line

with square from skin to top of shearweb. Mark an “X” between space of hardpoint for foam and

skin removal. (Fig. 10.20 and Fig. 10.21)

Fig. 10.20



Fig. 10.21

a) To remove hardpoint cutout, use a cut-off wheel to cut most of the 2 plies only. Do not cut

thru shearwebs Remove fiberglass then use a scraper to remove the foam. Sand face to clean off

excess foam. Fit 40 lb. foam inserts into “pockets” formed by removal of foam and cover plies at

each location. (Fig. 10.22)

Fig. 10.22



b) When inserts are fitted flush with cutout surface, mix-up resin, Cabosil, milled-fiber mixture

and apply to backside and edges of hardpoint. Do not apply mixture to forward surface of

hardpoint (This will be covered by close-out lams later). Press hardpoint into “pocket”, forcing

some “Mill-Cabo” to squeeze out. This is good, as it ensures that air bubbles are being squeezed

out from behind hardpoints (Air bubbles are a big NO-NO). Clamp in place, (2) clamps each

evenly spaced. Clean-up excess “squeeze-out” and move on to the next one. Allow to cure.

2) Install aft hardpoints. There are (5) hardpoints (40 lb. ½” foam) on the aft shearweb. Repeat

above steps D. 1), a) through b) for aft shearweb. Removing only backside face of aft shearweb

plies and foam at the following hardpoint locations:

Aft inboard E.O.P. of wing skin outboard to BL 27.50.

Size = 6.30”H x 9.0”W.

This is your aft shear tie attach point.

Aft outboard BL 68.00 to BL 73.00

Size = 5.5”H x 5.0”W.

This is your flap torque tube actuator bracket location.


Size = 4.75”H x 4.0”W.

This is your inboard aileron hinge bracket point.

Aft outboard BL144.00 to 148.00

Size = 4.5”H x 4.0”W.

This is your middle aileron hinge bracket point.


Size = 4.25”H x 4.0”W

This is your outboard aileron hinge bracket point.

Allow hardpoint inserts to cure.

It’s time for Ribs R and J flange installation.

Refer to Express wing assembly manual. Section 3, Procedure 3.030

express assembly manual section 3 f5-rg/ft wing assembly ... wing manual 2010_pdf/procedur… ·...

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