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Exploring Northern Veracruz State

Northern Route

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Xalapa: Downdown

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EXPLORING NORTHERN VERACRUZ STATE

check the Escuela de Estudiantes Extranjeros at www.uv.mx/eee for details).

Cool, clean, and green, Xalapa traces its roots to Pre-Hispanic times. Cortés came through on his way to Mexico City in 1519, however the city did not become important until the Spanish crown’s annual trade fair was moved here in 1720. Today, Xalapa is the center for cof-

fee and tobacco trading and the home of one of Mexico’s best pub-lic universities.

(Loop route Veracruz City-Xalapa-CoatepecPerote-Papantla-Costa Esmeralda- Veracruz City) Note: For route driving details, please review the information on page III-2.

XALAPA 90-MINUTES FROM VERACRUZ CITY(hah-LAH-pah; also spelled Jalapa)Known as the “Athens of Veracruz” because of its cultural wealth and cosmopolitan air, Xalapa is the state’s capital and administrative center. There are over 350 registered historic/artistic places within the city, including parks, plazas, buildings, churches, and streets.

Located 106 km (65 miles) from the port of Veracruz, the city is 1,460 meters (4,790 feet) above sea level. It has a temperate, wet cli-mate with an annual average tem¬perature of 18° (67° Fahrenheit), which drops in the

winter. Expect heavy afternoon and evening thunderstorms in the summer and early fall.

Xalapa is in the foothills of the mighty Cofre de Perote (4274 meters/ 14,022 feet). This extinct volcanic peak is visible (along with the taller Pico de Orizaba) from the city’s main square.

Note: For guided climbing excursions to these two mountains contact Aventura Extrema at www.aventuraextrema.com.mx More into bird watching? Environmental Adventure Company (www.eactours.com | tel: 1-888-422-5660) has fall migration, multi-day tours to witness the State’s diverse aviary offering.

This urbane, yet provincial highland city (pop. 390,000) is one of the Mexico most charming state capitals. The blend of setting and university town atmosphere give Xalapa a captivating energy. Students from all over Mexico study here -- as do foreigners (Note:

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These attractions are a mere distraction compared to the city’s main asset, the exqui-site Museo de Antropología. The museum (run to a T by the local university) rivals great museums from around the world. Its archi-tectural ingenuity and sublime display of

XALAPA continuesA Mexican Versailles

Heading towards Xalapa from Veracruz City, take time to detour from the main highway to visit Hacienda El Lencero. This former retreat of General Santa Ana (1794-1876; Mexico’s presi-dent on 11 different occasions, and unknow-ing “inventor” of chewing gum!) is a miniature “Mexican Versailles.”

As you enter under giant laurel and jacaranda trees there are three buildings: a lovely restored convent; a stately chapel; and the hacienda’s main house, which is now a museum. Behind these buildings are acres of streams, pools with swans, small bridges and sprawling gardens filled with flowers, bouganvillia, and ancient shade trees. The property’s towering higuera monumental fig tree is said to be over 500 years old. This is one of the most peaceful set-tings in all of Mexico, and shouldn’t be missed. Open Tuesday-Sunday from 10am-5pm.

The hillside setting and lush vegetation give the city some lovely terraced parks, including Parque Juárez, which is the city’s main square. The square is well maintained and is the center of the town’s social scene. The southern side of the park looks over the valley below, offering scenic views of the Sierra Madre Oriental mountains in the distance. Parque Juárez is the location of the Monastery of San Francisco. Its central garden features enormous monkey puzzle trees, art gallerys, an agora, workshops, auditorium and a café.

Across from the Parque Juárez is the Palacio Municipal. This is an important neoclassical style building dating from 1885, and carved stone faces from the region’s Amerindian civilizations enhance its beautiful architecture. The Palacio de Gobierno (seat of state government) is on the eastern side of the park. Step inside to view murals by Mario Orozco Rivera. In front of the Palacio, the city’s Cathedral (begun in 1772) has a crisp yel-low exterior and clean white trim.

Parque Paseo de los Lagos, is just below the Parque Juárez. Winding lakeside bike paths attract joggers, strolling lov-ers and families. The city’s other centrally located park is Los Tecajetes – located in a ravine covered in typical cloud forest flora. Through the rivine runs a fresh-water spring that feeds the beautiful aqueducts, artificial pools and canals of the park. Many come to exercise on the trails surrounding the greenery or to visit the amphitheater. Other parks include the Parque Ecológico Macuiltépetl (popular with joggers and hikers and for its expansive city views).

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rare artifacts – both miniature and massive is highly unique. Originally founded in 1957 and opening its current building in 1987, the museum now houses 30 centuries of art and history with 3,000 pieces on display. This special museum is home to one of the world’s most important and richest collections of pre-Columbian artifacts.

Inside, visitors will find a series of gradually descend-ing marble-floored levels, with accompanying open-air garden areas, showcasing monumental works of pre-Columbian sculpture. The museum has six rooms for exhibitions and sprawling outdoor lawn spaces with flowering trees.

The contrast of seven giant 20-ton stone Olmec heads with delicate pottery is remarkable. Rent an audio tour headset for $20 pesos (in English) and learn fasci-nating details about the Olmec and Totonac cultures of Veracruz State. This is a “must see” attraction. Café and onsite gift shop. Open daily 9am - 5pm.

While in Xalapa and looking to book excursions to outlying areas, contact Viajes Imher for arrangements (tel: 52-228-815-6698). For Xalapa loding options (from five star to bargain) see the separate Lodging Directory chapter.

COATEPECCoatepec (Koh-ah-teh-PEK; popu-lation 50,000) is situated in a small valley surrounded by fragrant coffee plantations, lush citrus orchards, sugar cane, green-houses and nurseries. Occupied for centuries by the Totonacos, Coatepec was founded in 1560. In 1702 the Spanish crown ratified the city and it became an 18th century stopover point for trade caravans between Mexico City and Veracruz City.

Located just 12 km (just under 8 miles) from Xalapa, Coatepec is 1,200 meters (3,900 feet) above sea level, has a temperate (yet wet) climate and an annual aver-age temperature of 19° C (67° Fahrenheit). Expect heavy afternoon rainfall in the summer and early fall.

The landscape is blend of forest vegetation, pines, poplars, and cedar. The climate is ideal for nurser-ies and gardens, making this a perfect home for the region’s abundance of orchids.

The people of Coatepec are charismatic, cheerful and welcoming. They know how to enjoy life and are proud of producing a wide variety of delicious wines and liquors using traditional methods. The city’s archi-tecture is of Andalusia-style with flowering patios

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behind wrought iron gates.

Coatepec coffee has been popular in Europe since the 19th century, and it is still the area’s main crop. Beans were brought from Cuba in 1808 and the first plantation was launched at the Hacienda La Orduña (see below). Coffee history is on display at the city’s Museo del Café on the city’s outskirts. There’s also the Museo Mata. This elegant 19th century estate was once the largest coffee processing plant in the Americas. A major Coffee Fair takes place from April

30-May 15 each year.

The town is laid out with broad paved streets lined with mansions and colo-nial-era homes dat-ing back to 1800s. Clean, stone inlaid streets are just right for strolling and tak-ing in the city sites. Balconies hang above most side-walks, provided much needed pro-tection from the frequent after-

noon rains (most prominent July-October). Take the 30-minute trolley tour (Spanish narration) for an over-view of attractions. The city has arguably more his-toric buildings per block than any other in Veracruz State (374 registered historic sites from the 17-19th century!)

Attractions are centered at the Parque Miguel Hidalgo, Coatepec’s lush main square. On one side is La Parroquia de San Jerónimo, a beautiful parish church with baroque and neoclassic touches. It was built between 1684-1742. Off to the other side of the square is a former private home whose entire exte-rior is covered with hand-painted blue Talavera tile. Interesting shops now occupy the building. The neo-classic Palacio Municipal (opposite the Parroquia de San Jerónimo) was completed in 1886.

Just opposite the tree-filled main square are sev-eral hip espresso bars. Two blocks from here on Calle Aldama is the eclectic La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. Its neoclassic exterior is a vibrant orange with brown trim, and inside, the walls are adorned with silver leaf ornamentation.

For shoppers, Coatepec is known for its talabartería leather crafts, including fine saddles, furniture, and hand-tooled leather portraits. Of course, coffee and items made from its wood are also popular.

Coatepec is now part of Mexico’s “Pueblos Mágicos” (Magical Towns) collection, which has inspired the city’s residents to further beautify the town and open interesting shops, coffee houses and some fine res-taurants. Coatepec warrants at least an overnight stay to take its many charms (see Lodging section of this guide for details). Stop in at the Posada Coatepec for a fine meal amidst the luxurious appointments of one of Mexico’s finest boutique properties.

OTHER COATEPEC ATTRACTIONS:Adventurous visitors can begin exploring by walking or driving the Cerro de las Culebras, a steep hill with an observation tower perched at its crest. The views are magnificent!

Other adventure outings include spectacular caverns, rivers, caves, rock walls and waterfalls (the Cascada de la Granada is of particular note). Abundant eco-adventure sites are within a few km to the west of town.

The Ex-hacienda La Orduña dates to 1593 and once existed as a 6,000-hectare (13,200 acre) estate dedicated to sugar cane, coffee, oranges and ranch-ing. Full restored in 2005, the former hacienda now houses the La Ceiba Gráfica art center. Located just to the south of town.

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Also of interest is the unique Centro Ecoturístico Agualegre. This park has a forest setting with nat-ural swimming pools, flourishing plant and animal life, and the unusual “Apiterapia” treatment where bee venom is used to treat a varied of ailments.

XICODon’t miss the chance to visit the nearby village of Xico (HE-koh), just a ten-minute drive to the west of Coatepec. Located inside an ecological reserve, Xico is a noble and mystical town. The main draw is the Cascada de Texolo (a spectacular waterfall) crashing into a tributary of the La Antigua River. Scenes from the film “Romancing the Stone” were shot around Xico and at this breathtaking water-fall. A suspension bridge takes you close to the fall’s gushing snout, and enticing jungle-shrouded mineral baths can be seen some 50 meters below.

Xico is a small colonial town with few ameni-ties. However, its stone-paved streets, old houses, the town chapels, quaint squares, and intrigu-ing barrios are worth a stroll. There is a “Mercado Ecológico” selling locally produced coffee, beauty products, handicrafts, and something called “hue-vos de Mujeres con Huevos”. At Calle Hidalgo 214.

PEROTEThe town of Perote (pop: 35,000) is 51 km (31 miles) due west from Xalapa and is noteworthy for its proximity to one of the country’s highest mountain peaks, the Cofre de Perote volcano. At 4,274 meters (14,022 feet) above sea level, Perote occasionally sees snow in December and January, and temperatures here fall below zero. The moun-tain is enveloped in a cloud of mist much of the year.

Cofre de Perote, located in a National Park, is ideal for camping and eco-adventure in the great Sierra Madre Oriental. The Park can be reached by car via a winding paved road that climbs some 1,900 meters (6,233 feet) in a mere 24 km (15 miles)! The road ends just below the summit.

Mountain biking, horseback riding and hiking are all popular. For experienced mountain climb-ers, one of Perote’s faces is apt for scaling. From its summit at 4,274 meters (14,022 feet), there is a spectacular view of distant Pico de Orizaba (North America’s second tallest peak), green valleys and surrounding mountains.

On the way to the mountain, there are a num-ber of small villages. Pescados, which is the last outpost for buying food and supplies, also boasts hospitable locals who offer their homes to accom-

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modate tourists.

You can also explore Valle Alegre (just west of the town of Las Vigas), which is a private 400-hectare (988-acre) natural reserve (www.vallealegre.com.mx ). Inside the reserve, animals brought from various parts of the world (Peruvian llamas, cattle from Scotland, Canadian moose, African antelope, and American buffalo), are sheltered and bred. There is also a hostel and a good restaurant. In this high mountain environment, be sure to take advantage of specialized guides for sports such as horseback riding, mountain climbing, rappelling, zip lines, and mountain biking.

JALCOMULCOOn the banks of the Río Antigua Mother Nature created the perfect stage for extreme sports fans from around the world. This region’s abun-dant eco-recreation activities are legendary and include world-class river rafting, kayaking, moun-tain biking, hiking, climbing, and rappelling.

Located 40 km (24 miles) south from the capital of Xalapa, the town of Jalcomulco is Mexico’s de facto rafting capital. The climate is warm and steamy with heavy rainfall in the summer and early fall. The

RAFT ADVENTURES

Three rivers converge in Jalcomulco area: the Actopán, Antigua, and Filo-Bobos, all with class I to V rapids.

RIO ACTOPAN BASICSLevel of Difficulty: Class II-III / Beginner. Rio Actopan rafting trips are rated class II-III making them a good choice for families or travelers looking for a fun day out on the river.Scenery: Narrow Limestone Canyon. The source of Rio Actopan is the Descabezadero, where natural springs feed the river from a striking fern-lined lime-stone amphitheatre. The beautiful clear water car-ries rafters through a narrow canyon past countless mango plantations.Season: June – October. River rafting is available on the Rio Actopan during the rainy months from June – October

RIO ANTIGUA BASICSLevel of Difficulty: Class II-IV / Beginner to Intermediate. Rio Antigua river rafting trips vary tremendously, so paddlers have many options. Different sections of the river range from gentle class II riffles to big and challenging class IV white-water. This natural variety means family vacationers and adventure travelers alike will find the perfect

Rio Antigua river trip. The Rio Antigua can be split up into three distinct runs:

Puente Pescados Section: The Puente Pescados run features demanding class IV whitewater. The continuous rapids and powerful water are the perfect challenge for experienced rafters or adrenaline-loving and active first-timers.

Jalcolmulco-Carrizal Section: The Jalcomulco-Carrizal run gives paddlers a little more “down time” than the Puente Pescados section. The class III-IV rapids provide challenges and thrills but calm pools offer a breather and a chance to appreciate the lush tropical fruit plantations and active wildlife living along the banks of the river.

Puente Nacional Section: The class II-III Puente National run is the most accessible section of the Rio Antigua. Fun rap-ids and beautiful scenery make this a great family float or fun day trip. The highlight of this section is the opportunity for travelers to see the largest hawk migration in the world. Every year in the fall and spring over 5 million birds fly over this section as they travel through the natural passage way between the mountains and the sea.

Scenery and Wildlife: Deep Canyon with Colorful Birds. Steep walls, mangroves, coffee plantations, and vibrant bird populations characterize the Rio Antigua canyon. Whitewater rafting trips paddle past unforgettable scenery, small villages, and flocks of exotic birds like kingfishers, herons, and parrots. The water for this beautiful canyon is sourced high in the peaks of the Sierra Madre Mountain range, making it crystal clear.Season: Year-round. Rafting trips on the Rio Antigua

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RAFT ADVENTURES continuescan be booked year round but the dynamics of the river change according to water level. (Always check with a local outfitter to determine the conditions.) At lower flows, the runs grow more technical, while at higher water flows the same rapids feature big pushy hydraulics and powerful waves. Rio Antigua river trips can be short and action-packed one-day trips, relaxing floats, or multi-day adventures.

RIO FILO-BOBOS BASICSLevel of Difficulty: Class III-IV / Intermediate. Rio Filo-Bobos river rafting trips are rated a challenging class III-IV. Both adrenaline-loving novice rafters and experienced whitewater paddlers will enjoy the adventure this river has to offer.

Scenery and History: Tropical Birds and El Cuajilote Ruins. Rio Filo-Bobos river trips run through the govern-ment-protected and semi-tropical Reserva Ecológica de Filo-Bobos and offer nature lovers and bird-watchers ample opportunities to appreciate the natural resources of the Veracruz region. The riverbank is dotted with natu-ral springs and waterfalls, while limestone cliffs provide a dramatic backdrop. Another highlight of these particular river trips are the nearby ruins of El Cuajilote, which were only discovered in 1992. Scholars believe the Nawa peo-ple, a culture thought to be even more ancient than the Maya, may have built these ruins.Season: November – February. Multi-day trips on the Rio Filo-Bobos are available during the winter months.

Source: www.rafting.com

Rafting Outfitters (Veracruz-based)

Adventures Selva Azul ......www.mexicorivers.com | T. 52-222-240- 6455Amigos del Río ........................www.amigosdelrio.com.mx | T. 52- 228-815-8817Mexico Verde ..........................www.mexicoverde.com | T. 52-279-832-3734Quinto Sol ................................www.quinto-sol.com.mx | T: 52-555-395-5252Río y Montaña ........................www.rioymontana.com | T: 52-555-520-2041Veraventuras ........................... www.veraventuras.com | T: 52-229-921-1550Veracruz Adventures ........... www.veracruzadventures.com | T: 52-229-931-5358

vegetation is medium to low subtropi-cal forest, surrounded by impressive mango trees. Among the many bird spe-cies living in the region, there are the picocanoa, hummingbird, purple dove, and roadrunner. The people around Jalcomulco belong to the Huasteca pre-Columbian culture, and their traditions and beliefs are apparent throughout the town. The locals still believe in the chaneques (mischievous elves, similar to

the aluxes of the Mayan world).

An interesting feature of Jalcomulco is “La Bocina del Pueblo” (People’s Megaphone), where each morning a per-

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River Lodges Located on the shores of the Pescados River, Picocanoa is Rio Y Montaña’s signature lodge. Surrounded by the warmth and color of the local culture, Picocanoa is home to 24 comfortable adobe cabañas surrounding a tiled pool, open-air bar and dining patio. Nearby white water rafting tours float past some of Mexico’s ancient cities and pristine jungle landscapes. Offerings include wonderful buffet meals, a fascinating tour of local cof-fee plantations or an unforgettable platform-to-platform leap across the zip line “Tirolesa,” meaning “Treetop Traverse.” Later, a well-deserved mas-sage and ancient mystic steam called “Temazcal” will renew the body and spirit. An afternoon siesta nestled in a cozy riverside hammock is the per-fect conclusion to your exciting day! Okavango is a luxury “tented” camp next door to Picocanoa and generally used for corporate and group events. A bit more rustic, but first class all the way. www.rioymontana.com.

The operator, Mexico Verde, oper-ates the pretty Mexico Verde Adventure Resort, also near Jalcomulco. Clients choose between safari or suite tent-like lodging. Full bathroom facilities are in separate quarters. The camp is quite well appointed with a swimming pool, temazcal sweet lodge, climbing wall, and kid’s play area. They offer some great family programs. www.mexi-coverde.com Eco-adventure pioneers Veraventuras operate the Carrizal Hotel & Spa. This four-star property opened in 1954 and was extensively renovated in 2005. Located on the shore of the Río Pescados –Antigua in the town of Apazapán, there are 23 bungalow-style tent units and 30 standard rooms with air-condi-tioning and TV. Pool, campground, restaurant, meeting rooms. Next door is the Parque Acuático y Aguas Termales with thermal waters, slides, and riverside facilities. www.carrizal-spa.com; tel. 52-228-818-9779.

son calls out to the inhabitants through a megaphone to announce ads for ser-vices, meetings of fishermen, commu-nity board meetings, best wishes for birthdays, and general information.

As for its visitor facilities, one popular option is staying in the camps installed by rafting outfitters. Others use Xalapa as their base, as the drive is less than one hour. The economy is based largely on tourism (river rafting) and farming.

The best time for rafting the rivers of Veracruz is from August to December, when water flows at its highest. There are two main stretches for rafting near Jalcomulco, with the most thrill-ing being the 18-km (11 mile) run from the Pescados Bridge to the Jalcomulco Bridge. The other is known as the “old run”, and it begins at the Jalcomulco Bridge and runs for 18 km (11 miles) to Paso Limón, for a total of 22 km (13 miles) on its way to Carrizal.

U.S.-based Discover Veracruz Tours offers a “Clouds to Coast Multi-Sport Adventure Trip that includes a 7,000-

Exploring: River Lodges, Papantla

foot mountain bike descent, zip lines, rappel, rafting in class II and III rapids, and seacoast kayaking. Contact them at www.discoververacruztours.com; tel: 630-274-5341(Bolingbrook, IL).

Also, see www.mexicosagaz.com.mx for an excellent overview of eco-adventure options throughout Veracruz State.

PAPANTLAKnown since ancient times as the “place of noisy birds,” Papantla is the spiritual heart and commercial capital of a broad region know as the Totonacapan (from the word Totonaco – the region’s principle indigenous group). Located on a hillside in the foothills of the Totonac Mountains, Papantla about a five-hour journey from Veracruz City or four hours from Xalapa (275 km/171 miles). It is renowned for three main attributes:

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ƒ The ancestral homeland for the Totonaco people; ƒ An ideal base for exploring the awe-inspiring archaeological site of El Tajín; ƒ The vanilla capital of the Americas with related cultural legacy.

The city’s origins go back to 1230 AD when refugees from abandoned El Tajín moved a short distance to the current hillside location. Spanish conquistadores noticed the large indigenous population with agricul-tural resources and founded a city in 1530. This makes

Papantla one of the first cities in the Americas built by Europeans.

Papantla was (and con-tinues to be) an impor-tant center for the area’s withering Totonac cul-ture. They number

Sustainable Tourism Initiatives Indigenous cooperatives are beginning to explore eco-tourism opportunities. By support-ing these cooperatives you are helping local community members better their lives, while experiencing a more personal encounter with local residents and off-the-beaten-path sites. The El Remolino Ecotourism Center was built by the local Totonac community, in con-junction with the National Commission for the Development of Indigenous People. The reserve is located on the Carretera (highway) Poza Rica-Martinez de la Torre, about 20 minutes outside of Papantla. The Center offers cabins for overnight visitors, as well as a restaurant serving local spe-cialties including acamayas (freshwater prawns). Local guides offer tours of the community’s eco-logical Reserve for observation of the diverse ;

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around 450,000 members and are spread across the mountains of north-central Veracruz and eastern Puebla State.

Papantla (pop. 80,000) is also a provincial center for prosperous vanilla bean cultivation, plus banana fields and surprisingly a plethora of oil wells (hardly noticeable but for the dozens PEMEX signs that dot the countryside).

Vanilla was sacred to the Totonacos and its produc-tion carefully controlled. As the only edible orchid, vanilla was used (along with cacao) as a currency and to pay taxes to the Aztecs of Central Mexico. A vanilla festival is held each June and you can visit actual plantations to see centuries-old practices. Note: Purchase pure, organic liquid vanilla, dried beans and vanilla liquor for a fraction of the cost back home.

Day or night, the city’s main square (Parque Dr. Israel Téllez) is bustling and vibrant. A sloped wall facing the square is adorned with an enormous bas-relief concrete mural recounting Totonac history (illumi-nated in the evening). The mural was created by local artist Teodoro Cano, and represents the evolution

of Totonac culture, including an unusual nod to the region’s petroleum industry.

The famous “voladores” (flying Indians), seen in resorts around Mexico, actually originated here, and can be seen performing almost daily just above the town square. The dance of Los Voladores alludes to the sun and calendar. A 28-meter/91-foot steel pole is used for what is actually a pre-Hispanic har-

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vest and fertility ritual performed by death-defying performers.

In pre-Columbian times it was performed in many regions, but today it only survives among the Totonacos. Five men, each representing the five ele-ments of the indigenous world, climb atop the pole. One of them stays on the pole playing a flute and

dancing while the four descend the pole with a rope tied to a single foot. The rope unwraps itself 13 times for each of the four flyers, symbolizing the 52 years in their calendar.

Adjacent to the square is Papantla’s neoclassic hill-side Cathedral of the Assumption. Step inside the church and you’ll see welcome messages in Totonac, a language heard throughout this region. Look sky-ward from about anywhere in the city of Papantla and you’ll see a towering cement “volador” monument. Views from here are invigorating, as is the hike from the main plaza.

Papantla has very limited lodging (two-three star properties only), and advanced reservations are sug-gested -- as this is one of two main access points to nearby El Tajín. Properties include the Posada Quinta Leones (tel: 52-784-842-6886), Hotel Tajín (tel: 52-784-842-0121) and Quinta Buganvilias (tel: 52-784-842-1080).

The other gateway option is the city of Poza Rica, a mere 30 km away, a “Pueblo Mágico.” Here you’ll find the five star hotels Poza Rica Inn (www.pozaricainn.com ) and Hotel Victoria (www.hotelvictoria.com.mx ) and the four star Best Western Poza Rica (www.bwpozarica.com ) and Fiesta

Inn (www.fiestainn.com).

Overall, Papantla lacks the charm of the state’s other Pueblo Mágico (Coatepec). Museums, dining and lodging are a bit scarce. However the city’s outlying attractions and interaction with the Totonaco culture compensate for these shortcomings. Hopefully, the town’s recent inclusion in the “Pueblos Mágicos” pro-gram will spur improved visitor facilities and some overall town beautification (both lacking at this time).

EL TAJÍN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITELocated 13 km/8 miles west of Papantla, a visit to sacred city of El Tajín is one of Mexico’s most enthrall-ing archeological experiences. Designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 1992, it is the largest Gulf Coast urban and ceremonial center and the centerpiece of Veracruz’s 80-century continuum of human experience.

Only 25 miles from the coast and situated near a tributary of the Tecolutla River, El Tajín controlled rich agriculture lands that today reveal sophisticated ancient waterways. The city had a vast trade network, and served as an important bridge between Mayan and Mexican highland civilizations. It ranks as one of the largest and most important pre-Columbian sites

flora and fauna, including a bat cave. There are also panga boat tours along the Río Tecolutla, plus visits to local vanilla plantations where visi-tors can observe the curing process using time-honored methods. Tel: 52-784-596-8514. The Parque Ecológico Xanath is designed to showcase the ideal ecological conditions for the cultivation of vanilla. Owner, Jose Luis Hernandez, will show you around his small hacienda and offers a guided tour of how vanilla is cultivated. You’ll also enjoy miradores to view the countryside and a get a local per-spective on life in Veracruz (tel: 52-784-842-3311). Another option to consider is the Parque Temático Takilhsukut, tel. 52-782-821-7088.

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Exploring North: Papantla & El Tajín

of Mesoamerica, with 168 structures built over hills, ridges, riverbanks and plains. All this --over an area of some 2,550 acres makes El Tajín a worthy trek.

The original builders were likely the Huastecs (cousins of the Mayas), however the site is today more iden-tified with the Totonac culture. The Totonacs have occupied the site (literally) for centuries, giving El Tajín its name (“place of thunder”) and actually living at the site’s entrance until being expelled in the 1990’s.

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El Tajín lies among rolling hills covered with wild vegetation. It remained undiscovered until 1785 when Spanish officials happened upon its jungle-shrouded temples, ball courts, plazas and fortifica-tions. Excavation work began in 1934. Several site characteristics stand out: its oddly positioned struc-tures (aligned as individual units, not part of a rigid grid), Mayan-influenced architecture, ball courts, the diminutive scale of its buildings and exquisite stone carved panels.

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Exploring North: El Tajin

Historians believe El Tajín was completed by 600 A.D. and saw its zenith during the years 600-900 AD. What’s unclear is exactly who occupied the site: Huastecs, Otomí, Totonac, or even, per-haps Mayan. The site has 17 ball courts, decorated with bas-relief stone carvings of great craftsmanship and beauty.

Two main areas of the site have been extensively restored: the lower area containing the most visited structures includ-ing ball courts, numerous structures, and the Pyramid of the Niches (none of which can be climbed) and the upper area (known as “El Tajín Chico) with it ornately styled struc-tures (with stone mosaic patterns), Mayan-like architectural elements, and original frescoes.

Once inside the park, you’ll see several build-ings that appear to have partially “melted” due to inferior architectural design. Later construc-tion methods got it right, culminating with some extraordinary buildings. The site’s main feature is the awesome Pyramid of the Niches. Built on six tiers with 365 small hollow altars, or niches, the building has a lacy, almost delicate appearance. It is only 18 meters (59 feet) tall, yet seems to com-pete with surrounding mountains for attention.

Exploring El Tajín is a memorable adventure. Hire a guide at the site entrance and take at least a half-day to explore. There’s a fine on-site museum and simple cafeteria. The famed “voladores” per-formances near the park entrance.

CITIES NORTH OF PAPANTLAPOZA RICA (21 km northwest of Papantla)Poza Rica (previously known as Poza Rica de Hidalgo) means “rich well.” Known for its abun-dance of oil (which has now been almost com-pletely extracted), this colorful industrial city (pop. 175,000) is located northwest of Papantla some 21 km (13 miles) and at the junction of

highways 130 and 180. The ruins of El Tajín lay between the two cities.

Unlike most Mexican cities, Poza Rica it does not have old buildings, as it was officially founded in 1951. However no fewer tha 17 large concrete and painted murals are scattered around the city’s public and private spaces. As in Papantla, Teodoro Cano created eight fine works through-out the city.

Poza Rica is an important commercial center and a central hub for several road transportation lines. The downtown provides some shopping and for a great view, visit the “El Cerro del Abuelo” (Grandfather Hill) where it’s possible to see the entire city and its “que-madores,” (big petroleum burners) which were used to light the city in early years.

CASTILLO DE TEAYO (69 km north of Papantla)Castillo de Teayo makes the entrance to Mexico’s Huasteca region. Its history dates back more than 1,200 years. It is 45 km (27 miles) north of Poza Rica and 68 km (42 miles) southwest from Tuxpan. The town owes its name to a well-preserved castle-

A Sensational Summit Each year since 1996, the festival called Cumbre Tajín (Tajín Summit) is a coming together of cultures, aimed at restoring and safeguarding Totonac traditions, dances, and rites. The festival offers visitors a unique hands-on encounter with one of Mexico’s most inter-esting indigenous peoples. Over 125,000 people attend the event each year. Held in the month of March the event includes a series of interactive activities such as handicrafts work-shops, cooking classes, dance lessons, a wonderful light and sound shows, music concerts, spiritual classes, and Veracruz State’s second biggest fiesta (after Carnaval). www.cumbretajin.com. March 17-21, 2010.

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Exploring North: El Tajin & North

shaped pyramid in the center of the main square.

The town is built on the pre-Columbian ruins of the Huastec culture. During the colonial period it was completely abandoned until the 19th century when a pyramid was discovered along with various pre-Columbian stone sculptures. The current town was built around this enigmatic archeological site and officially founded in 1870.

The steep pyramid, located in the middle of the town’s central square, is 11 meters (35 feet) high. It consists of three overlaid architectural bodies on a base. A distinct Aztec influence can be observed in the stairs inside the pyramid, which is unique in con-structions of this kind. Today, pre-Columbian sculp-

tures can be admired in the located in the back of the pyramid, with original pieces mostly representing the Huastec gods found here and in nearby localities.

Nearby, the Spanish legacy is evident in the monu-mental Iglesia de Santiago Apostol in the town of Temapache.

TUXPAN (79 km north of Papantla)Known for its beautiful sunsets and as the gateway to Huasteca culture, Tuxpan (population: 80,000) is a place where the river and the sea come together to create beautiful landscapes.

It is located northeast of Papantla and some 319 km/191 miles from Veracruz City. This fishing and oil port is at home on the banks of the Tuxpan River, just 11 km (6.8 miles) from its mouth on the Gulf of Mexico. Splendid vegetation and miles of golden sand and the peaceful waters of the Gulf of Mexico provide a peaceful respite.

Activities include enjoying beautiful sunsets from the boardwalk, taking a motorboat ride on the river, and touring the outlying areas to visit the Regional Anthropology Museum. The museum showcases

remains from pre-Columbian Huastec, Tabuc, Tumilc, Totonac, and Olmec civilizations. More than 250 pieces are on display.

Tuxpan is also famous for its historic museum on the banks of the river. Known as the “Casa de Fidel Castro”, this unusual museum displays old photo-graphs and belongings commemorating the revolu-tionary Cubans, led by Fidel Castro (who left Mexico from here in 1956 to start their campaign against the dictatorship of Fulgencio Batista).

A ride around Lake Tempamachoco to observe the four types of mangrove and the estuaries of Tumilco, Palma Sola, and Jacome is an interesting option. And, the lake is ideal for fishing and tasting delicious dishes at any of the restaurants lining the shore.

The Archeology Museum of Tuxpan has more than 250 archeological pieces highlighting the artistry and refinement of the region’s Huastec culture. The Caritas Sonrientes (“Smiling Faces” - and symbol of this training course) are an example of the precious Totonac art; the other sculptures belong to the Huastec culture.

For those looking for more exciting adventures, there is the Isla de Lobos (Wolf Island), with its incred-ible reefs, ideal for diving and camping in a peaceful island setting. Besides the reefs, there are other excel-lent dive sites that include los Bajos de Tuxpan, En

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Exploring North of Papantla: Tuxpan

Medio, and Tanhuijo, with sparkling clear waters that make it easy to admire the underwater fauna.

To get an authentic taste of Tuxpan, try the local dishes. Noted for its Huastec sea-soning and traditional recipes, the major-ity of offerings are based on seafood and there are plenty of tamal favorites to try.

BACK ON THE COASTTECOLUTLA & THE COSTA ESMERALDA (30 km east of Papantla)Named for its deep green waters and fine Gulf of Mexico beaches, this is framed north to south by the Tecolutla and Nautla Rivers. This might be considered the State’s leading “beach resort”. Just don’t expect Puerto Vallarta-like ameni-ties. The focus is one simple seaside relax-

ation with an outing to explore nearby nature reserves.

This coastal region consists of mostly deserted shore backed by tropical hills, lagoons, and fruit plantations. Stretching along the coast are several small hotels, restaurants, and trailer parks. There’s plenty of open space and very clear, emerald green, gulf coast water to enjoy.

Some 50 km of lush coast, estuaries, lagoons and diverse ecosystems make this a haven for eco-recreation. The city of Tecolutla (238 km/143 miles) north of Veracruz City) rests at the mouth of the Tecolutla River and dates to pre-His-panic times. It is the Costa Esmeralda’s main city with some 1,500 hotel rooms and around 25,000 inhabitants.

This humble town has witnessed both the 1518 arrival of Spaniard Don Juan de Grijalva (prior to the arrival of Cortés), and the disembarkation of the American Army during the 1847 Mexican American War. Italian immigrants arrived in the 1850’s to enrich the area’s existing indigenous inhabitants.

Continue south to return to Veracruz City, passing the towns of Vega de Alatorre, Villa Emiliano Carranza, Palma Sola, Zempoala and La Antigua. See Veracruz City (section II) for details about these attractions.

Explore the nearby estuaries and the local turtle hatchery. Then enjoy simple seaside accommodations. Consider these four star choices:

Azucar: www.hotelazucar.com

Aqua Inn: www.tecolutla.com.mx/aquainn

Finca Santa Luisa: www.fincasantaluisa.com

Hotel Mansión del Faro: www.lamansiondelfaro.com.mx

Hotel El Cora: www.tecolutla.com.mx

South from Tecolutla, take the coastal highway to explore virgin seacoast land-scapes. The Cienaga del Fuerte Nature Reserve is redolent with extraordinary biodiversity. There are a variety of small-scale (no high rises) hotel facilities, with different styles and accommodations, many restaurants and palapas (beach-side palm-covered open-air huts) serving fresh seafood.

Four star properties here include:Best Western Noray: www.bestwestern.com/mx/hotelnoray

Casa Esmeralda: Tel: 52-784-848-7006

Hotel Torre Molino: www.hoteltorremolino.com

Villas Cabo Alto: www.caboalto.com

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Exploring North of Papantla: Tecolutla

Historical Note At entrance of the village to Nuatla there is a sign that tells the story of the Lord of Nautla, Cuauhpopoca, who was an Aztec warrior and tax collector for Moctezuma II. He was in charge of collect-ing from the Totonac peo-ple of the region. In 1520, he fought fiercely against Spanish Captain Juan de Escalante in the historical battle of the plains of Nauhtlan. Several Spaniards will killed. This inci-dent was the pretext that Hernando Cortés used for tak-ing Moctezuma II prisoner, which was the beginning of the end for the Aztec empire.

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