Evaluating Garment QualityCT 137 Advanced Apparel Construction

OBJECTIVE

• Acquire most efficient and effective apparel construction without compromising quality and creative vision.

• Learn appropriate method and techniques relevant to producing quality garments.

As BS Clothing Tech majors one should ...

• recognizes the standards at different garment construction components that affect, to varying degrees, appearance and function of garment items.

• be aware that standards will provide a better understanding of comparable apparel structures as well as establishing the company’s quality standards.

QUESTION???

In deciding to what garment to purchase, choose one you will prioritize:

____ Value (Monetary)

____ Quality

____ Aesthetic

Garment Quality• Interact to affect the final price and

value of an apparel item.• The concept of quality or value as a

direct correlate of durability may appear foremost in the minds of many consumers during a casual discussion of term, BUT in fact aesthetic concerns actually dominate most traditional treatments of apparel quality.

Garment Quality• Quality then is a broad term, and one

which encompasses many different aspects of garment

• Cost, because it relates to the factors of production, does not always reflect aesthetic or durability benefits but manufacturing solutions to certain production problems.

• Most of the standards will provide an in-depth look at construction components that affect, to varying degrees, appearance, function and cost of apparel items. However, none of these can be evaluated in COMPLETE ISOLATION.

• Some generalizations can be made as to comparative cost or quality of similar construction components, but all the specifics that resulted in the garment’s final cost cannot be ordered with precision except in terms of the particular garment and its manufacturer.

• Darts & Dart Equivalent• Seams• Seam Finishes• Collars• Hems & Finishes• Facings• Closures• Underlining, Interfacing, Interlining &

Lining

Darts & Dart Equivalent

Standards for Evaluating Dart & Dart Equivalents

• Stitch length is appropriate to the fabric and expected stress at the stitched location.

• The thread matches the apparel fabric

• No crease or wells are present on the right side of the dart.

Darts & Dart Equivalent

• No dimples or bubbles can be seen at the dart point.

• Matching darts are identical in size and angle.

• Fullness is evenly distributed in dart equivalents.

• Sufficient fabric is allowed to achieve the desired design effect in dart equivalent.

Seams

Standards for Evaluating Seams Types• Seams should be perfectly even; that

is the stitching should be exactly the same distance from the seam edge for the entire length of the seam.

• Seams should be stitched with the correct stitch length.

Seams

• Seams should be smooth, with no puckers or pulls, and should lie flat.

• The type of seam should be in accord with the type of fabric, the position of the seam and the projected care of the garment.

Seams

• The seam width should be in accord with the type of seam, seam finish and garment design. Wider seam allowances require more fabric which leads to greater cost.

• Seams should be finished according to the dictates of the seam type fabric and projected garment care.

Seam Finishes

Standards for Evaluating Seam Finishes

• The finish selected should prevent the fabric from raveling, rolling or stretching and should contribute to the overall neatness of the garment.

• The finish should not add bulk to the seam.

Seam Finishes

• The finish should be applied securely so that it remains in place during normal wear and care.

• The seam finish should be appropriate to the garment fabric, to the garment design and to the intended use of the garment.

Collars

Standards for evaluating collars• The collar is interfaced, when

necessary, with appropriate interfacing.

• The outer edges of the collar are smooth and even with no seam wells or holes.

Collars

• Enclosed seams have been trimmed to reduce bulk.

• The size and shape of the collar is consistent from one end to the other. Except for international design variations.

Collars

• The collar fits the neck edge to which it is sewn without stretching or gathering.

• The collar assumes the proper position on the garment, as intended by the designer. For example, a flat collar lies flat against the garment instead of rolling up.

Collars

• The placement of the collar is symmetrical on the garment. For example, notched collars have the same size of the notch on each side of the center front.

• All raw edges are carefully concealed during collar application so that they are not visible when the garment is worn.

Hems & Finishes

Standards for evaluating hems and finishes

• The hemline of the garment is parallel to the floor during wear, unless the garment design dictates an uneven hemline.

• The hem is even in depth.

Hems & Finishes

• The hem is flat and smooth, with no pulling, ripples, puckers, or pleats.

• The hem type is appropriate for the garment fabric and the hem type.

• The attachment method is appropriate for the garment fabric and style.

Hems & Finishes

• Excess bulk has been eliminated from the hem area.

• Topstitched hems should be evenly stitched with appropriate thread and stitch length.

Hems & Finishes

• Blind stitching, fusing, and gluing should be inconspicuous on the right side of the garment.

• Thread-covered edges should be smooth, well covered, and free from frayed or hanging threads.

Hems & Finishes

• Hems at garments openings should be covered by the facing.

• Hems in linings should allow for ease in wearing.

• Hems in pleats should be handled to reinforce the pleat crease.

Facings

Standards for evaluating facings• Facing lie smoothly with no ripples

or puckers.• Facings are secured inconspicuously

to the garment reverse to prevent their rolling to the outside. Top stitching, when used, serves as a means of securing the facing.

Facings

• The free edge of the facing is finished with an appropriate seam finish to prevent raveling.

• In garments made of thick, spongy fabric, the facings are cut from a lighter weight but matching fabric.

Facings

• Facings in transparent or translucent fabrics are very narrow or stop at a design line of the garment.

• The facing is understitched.

Facings

• Most areas that are faced are interfaced as well. Bias facings are the exception and are not interfaced. The extended facing on a cowl neckline is not interfaced. Since that portion of the neckline is cut on the bias and intend to drape softly.

ZIPPER CLOSURES

Standards for evaluating zippered closures

• The zipper teeth and tape materials are suitable for the apparel design and fabric.

• The zipper length is adequate for ease in wearing or using the item.

ZIPPER CLOSURES

• The method of attachment is appropriate to the garment design.

• Any visible stitching is neatly done.• The zipper is securely inserted into

the garment.

ZIPPER CLOSURES

• Zipper teeth are concealed adequately by lapped application.

• Lapped applications are evenly formed.

Snapped & Hooked Closures

Standards for evaluating snapped and hooked closures

• Fasteners are the correct size for the closure requirement.

• Fasteners are attached securely, whether mechanically or by the hand.

Snapped & Hooked Closures

• Concealed applications of fasteners are inconspicuous.

• Fasteners used in visible applications are suitable for the apparel design and fabric.

• Durable coverings (thread or fabric) are used when appropriate.

Underlining

Standards for Evaluating Underlining• Fashion fabric and underlining fabric

relate well – the garment is neither over-supported nor under-supported for the desired design effect.

 

Underlining

• Garment fabric and underlining fabric are compatible as to color, care requirements and longevity.

• The two layers of fabric should fit smoothly and evenly with no pulls or tucks.

 

Interfacing

Standards for Evaluating Interfacing• The interfacing complements and

reinforces the garment fabric with out overpowering it.

• Care requirements of the interfacing are compatible with those of the garment fabric.

Interfacing

• Heavy interfacings are not caught in seams.

• The interfacing does not show through to the right side of the garment.

Interfacing

• Woven interfacings and nonwoven oriented interfacings are cut on the same grain as the garment to be interfaced.

• Interfacing is used in any areas required shape, body, support and reinforcement and where seam impressions may be a problem.

Interlining

Standards for Evaluating Interlining• Interlinings are of lightweight fabric

with insulating properties.• Interlinings do not add excessive

dimensions to the garment.

Interlining

• The interlining’s care requirements match those of the rest of the garment.

• The interlined garment has adequate wearing ease to accommodate the added thickness.

Linings

Standards for Evaluating Lining• The lining fits smoothly inside the

garment.• The lining provides a neat, clean

inside finish.

Linings

• The lining is constructed from a smooth static free fabric that complements the outer fabric.

• The lined garment allows sufficient ease in the lining for the body movement without straining the fabric.

Linings

• A partial lining used to maintain the shape of a garment extends at least far enough to accomplish this purpose.

• On garments lined to the edge, the lining does not peek out to the front.

Evaluating Pattern Development (10 points)

Technique & Execution

3 points

Quality of Pattern/ Draping

3 points

Cutting

3 points

Adherence to Schedule 1 point