encyclopedia of coastal science978-3-319-93806...africa, coastal ecology 4 anton mclachlan africa,...

ENCYCLOPEDIA ofCOASTAL SCIENCE

Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COASTAL SCIENCE

Volume EditorsCharles W. FinklCoastal Education and Research Foundation, Asheville, NC, USA

Christopher MakowskiCoastal Education and Research Foundation, Coconut Creek, FL, USA

Editorial BoardRobin Davidson-Arnott (Emeritus)Department of GeographyUniversity of GuelphGuelph, ON, Canada

Omar DefeoMarine Science UnitUniversidad de la RepúblicaMontevideo, Uruguay

Kazimierz FurmańczykInstitute of Marine and Coastal SciencesUniversity of SzczecinSzczecin, Poland

Pramod T. HanamgondGuruprasad ColonyBelagavi, India

James R. HoustonCorps of EngineersU.S. Army Engineer Research and Development CenterVicksburg, MS, USA

Federico Ignacio IslaInstituto de Geología de Costas y del CuaternarioUniversidad Nacional de Mar del PlataMar Del Plata, Argentina

Victor V. KlemasCollege of Earth, Ocean and EnvironmentUniversity of DelawareNewark, DE, USA

Charles LemckertFaculty of Arts and DesignUniversity of CanberraBruce, ACT, Australia

Nobuo MimuraIberaki UniversityBunkyo, MitoIberaki, Japan

Andrew D. ShortSchool of GeosciencesUniversity of SydneySydney, NSW, Australia

Marcel J. F. Stive (Emeritus)Department of Hydraulic EngineeringFaculty Civil Engineering and GeosciencesDelft University of TechnologyDelft, The Netherlands

Colin WoodroffeSchool of Earth and Environmental SciencesUniversity of WollongongWollongong, NSW, Australia

Aims of the SeriesThe Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series provides comprehensive and authoritative coverage of all the main areas in the Earth Sciences. Each volume comprises afocused and carefully chosen collection of contributions from leading names in the subject, with copious illustrations and reference lists. These books represent one ofthe world’s leading resources for the Earth Sciences community. Previous volumes are being updated and new works published so that the volumes will continue to beessential reading for all professional earth scientists, geologists, geophysicists, climatologists, and oceanographers as well as for teachers and students. See the back ofthis volume for a current list of titles in the Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series.Go to http://www.springerlink.com/reference-works/ to visit the “Earth Sciences Series” online.

About the Series EditorProfessor Charles W. Finkl has edited and/or contributed to more than eight volumes in the Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series. He has been the Executive Directorof the Coastal Education and Research Foundation and Editor-in-Chief of the international Journal of Coastal Research for the past 35 years. He is also the SeriesEditor of the Coastal Research Library (Springer). In addition to these duties, he is Distinguished University Professor Emeritus at Florida Atlantic University (FAU)(Boca Raton, Florida). He is a graduate of Oregon State University (Corvallis) and the University of Western Australia (Perth). Work experience includes theInternational Nickel Company of Australia (Perth), Coastal Planning & Engineering (Boca Raton, Florida), and Technos Geophysical Consulting (Miami, Florida). Hehas published numerous peer-reviewed technical research papers and edited or coedited and contributed to many books. Dr. Finkl is a Certified ProfessionalGeological Scientist (Arvada, Colorado), a Certified Professional Soil Scientist (Madison, Wisconsin), a Certified Wetland Scientist (Lawrence, Kansas), and aChartered Marine Scientist (London). Academically, he served as a Demonstrator at the University of Western Australia, Courtesy Professor at Florida InternationalUniversity (Miami), Program Professor and Director of the Institute of Coastal and Marine Studies at Nova Southeastern University (Port Everglades, Florida), andFull Professor at FAU. During his career, he acquired field experience in Australia; the Bahamas; Puerto Rico; Jamaica; Brazil; Papua New Guinea and other SWPacific islands; southern Africa; Western Europe; and the Pacific Northwest, Midwest, and Southeast USA. Dr. Finkl is a member of several professional societiesincluding the Geological Society of America; Soil Science Society of America; Institute of Marine Engineering, Science and Technology; and the Society of WetlandSpecialists. He is a recipient of the International Beach Advocacy Award (Florida Shore and Beach Preservation Association), Certificate of George V. ChilingarMedal of Honor (Russian Academy of Natural Sciences), and Lifetime Commitment to Coastal Science Award (International Coastal Symposium).

Founding Series EditorProfessor Rhodes W. Fairbridge (deceased) has edited more than 24 Encyclopedias in the Earth Sciences Series. During his career he has worked as a petroleumgeologist in the Middle East, been a WWII intelligence officer in the SW Pacific, and led expeditions to the Sahara, Arctic Canada, Arctic Scandinavia, Brazil, andNew Guinea. He was Emeritus Professor of Geology at Columbia University and was affiliated with the Goddard Institute for Space Studies.

http://www.springerlink.com/reference-works/

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF EARTH SCIENCES SERIES

ENCYCLOPEDIA of

COASTAL SCIENCESecond Edition

edited by

CHARLES W. FINKLCoastal Education and Research Foundation,

Asheville, NC, USA

CHRISTOPHER MAKOWSKICoastal Education and Research Foundation,

Coconut Creek, FL, USA

Library of Congress Control Number: 2018966552

ISBN: 978-3-319-93805-9
This publication is available also as:Electronic publication under ISBN 978-3-319-93806-6 andPrint and electronic bundle under ISBN 978-3-319-93807-3
Cover photo: Twelve Apostles in Victoria, Australia. Credit: iStock.com/fon_thachakul

Every effort has been made to contact the copyright holders of the figures and tables which have been reproduced fromother sources. Anyone who has not been properly credited is requested to contact the publishers, so that dueacknowledgement may be made in subsequent editions.

All rights reserved for the contributions: Coastal Modeling; Geohydraulic Research Centers

1st edition: © Springer Science+Business Media B.V. 2005© Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2019This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material isconcerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction onmicrofilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation,computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed.The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to betrue and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express orimplied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

Printed on acid-free paper

This Springer imprint is published by the registered company Springer Nature Switzerland AG.The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland

Dedication

To RhodesW. Fairbridge, colleague, mentor, and friend who inspired my professional interests in the coast. His persistentnudging, teasing, and invitations to everything coastal drewme away frommy first professional interest, soil science, to anew and exciting world of coastal science. His inspirations led me to coastal research, publication, and teaching in thecoastal realm, and this interest has passed through me to Chris Makowski, my coeditor.

Contents

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Dedication

About the Editors

Contributors

Preface to the Second Edition x

Preface to the First Edition

Accretion and Erosion Waves on BeachesDouglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins

Africa, Coastal EcologyAnton McLachlan

Africa, Coastal GeomorphologyAntony R. Orme

Algal RimsJacques Laborel

Alluvial-Plain CoastsDaniel F. Belknap

Altimeter Surveys, Coastal Tides, and ShelfCirculation

Guoqi Han

Antarctica, Coastal Ecology and GeomorphologyAndrew McMinn

AquacultureRobert R. Stickney

ArchaeologyLucille Lewis Johnson

Archaeology and Sea-Level ChangeNiki Evelpidou and Anna Karkani

Arctic, Coastal EcologyJean-François Hamel and Annie Mercier

Arctic, Coastal GeomorphologyH. Jesse Walker

Artificial IslandsMarcel J. F. Stive

Asia, Eastern, Coastal EcologyDonald Macintosh

Asia, Eastern, Coastal GeomorphologyD. Eisma

Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology andGeomorphology

Paul Sanlaville and Abel Prieur

Asteroid-Impact CoastsRhodes W. Fairbridge

Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal EcologyAnnie Mercier and Jean-François Hamel

Atlantic Ocean Islands, CoastalGeomorphology

J. D. Hansom

AtollsDavid Hopley

Australia, Coastal EcologyKaren S. Edyvane

Australia, Coastal GeomorphologyEric Bird

BarrierEric Bird

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viii CONTENTS

Barrier Island Formation and DevelopmentModes

Ervin G. Otvos

Barrier Island LandformsIlya V. Buynevich and Duncan M. FitzGerald

BARSBrian Greenwood

Bay BeachesKarl F. Nordstrom and Nancy L. Jackson

Beach and Nearshore InstrumentationRobin Davidson-Arnott

Beach Awards and CertificationsCamilo M. Botero

Beach DrainageAlessandra Saponieri

Beach Environmental QualityCamilo M. Botero, Ganivetth Manjarrés, ElinMárquez and Cristina I. Pereira

Beach ErosionEdward J. Anthony

Beach FeaturesMichael J. Chrzastowski

Beach Management ToolsCamilo M. Botero and Carlos Pereira da Silva

Beach NourishmentCharles W. Finkl and H. Jesse Walker

Beach ProcessesJohn R. Dingler

Beach ProfileNicholas C. Kraus

Beach RidgesErvin G. Otvos

Beach Safety ResearchRobert W. Brander

Beach Sediment CharacteristicsAlan S. Trenhaile

Beach StratigraphyToru Tamura and Yoshiki Saito

Beach Use and BehaviorsNiels West

BeachrockRobert J. Turner

Beaufort Wind ScaleDilip K. Barua

BioconstructionWilliam T. Fox

Bioengineered Shore ProtectionKevin R. Hall

BioerosionWilliam T. Fox

BiogeomorphologyMartin J. Baptist

Bioherms and BiostromesJacques Laborel

Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology andGeomorphology

Yuri Dolotov and Pavel Kaplin

BogsMartyn Waller

Boulder BarricadesPeter S. Rosen

Boulder BeachesJohn McKenna

Boulder PavementsJ. D. Hansom

Capping of Contaminated Coastal AreasRam K. Mohan

Carbonate BeachesAndrew D. Short

Caribbean Islands, Coastal Ecology andGeomorphology

Gillian Cambers

Carrying Capacity in Coastal AreasM. MacLeod and J. Andrew G. Cooper

Cave and Karst in Coastal SettingsMichael J. Lace

CaysScott Smithers and David Hopley

Chalk CoastsVincent May

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CONTENTS ix

Changing Sea LevelsNils-Axel Mörner

CheniersErvin G. Otvos

Cliffed CoastsAlan S. Trenhaile

Cliffs, Erosion RatesTsuguo Sunamura

Cliffs, Lithology Versus Erosion RatesTsuguo Sunamura

Climate Patterns in the Coastal ZoneDouglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins

Coastal Barrier Preservation andDestruction

Ervin G. Otvos

Coastal BoundariesCelene Milanés Batista

Coastal Changes, GradualB. G. Thom and P. J. Cowell

Coastal Changes, RapidDavid B. Scott

Coastal ClimateDavid Greenland

Coastal CurrentsGuy Gelfenbaum

Coastal DynamicsNils-Axel Mörner

Coastal ErosionNils-Axel Mörner and Charles W. Finkl

Coastal Erosion ManagementNelson Rangel-Buitrago and William J. Neal

Coastal Evolution in Microtidal Seasin Holocene

Kazimierz Furmańczyk

Coastal Flood Hazard MappingCelene Milanés Batista

Coastal Hazard IndicatorsÓscar Ferreira

Coastal HoodoosShin Wang

Coastal Lake SystemsAnja M. Scheffers and Dieter H. Kelletat

Coastal Management PracticesFrank van der Meulen and Bert van der Valk

Coastal ModelingHonghai Li

Coastal RiskCelene Milanés Batista

Coastal SceneryA. T. Williams, Nelson Rangel-Buitrago, E. Pranzini,Giorgio Anfuso and Camilo M. Botero

Coastal Seafloor Geomorphological Features,Classification

Charles W. Finkl and Christopher Makowski

Coastal Sedimentary FaciesH. Edward Clifton

Coastal SoilsCharles W. Finkl

Coastal SubsidenceZhongyuan Chen and John Rybczyk

Coastal Temperature TrendsGeorge A. Maul

Coastal Upwelling and DownwellingDilip K. Barua

Coastal WarfarePeter L. Guth

Coastal WellsYaacov Nir

Coastal Wind EffectsTerry R. Healy

Coastline ChangesEric Bird

Coasts, Coastlines, Shores, and ShorelinesGeorge F. Oertel

Cohesive Sediment TransportParmeshwar L. Shrestha and Alan F. Blumberg

Conservation of Coastal SitesVincent May

Continental ShelvesA. W. Niedoroda

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x CONTENTS

Coral Reef CoastsCharles R. C. Sheppard

Coral Reef IslandsGisèle Muller-Parker

Coral ReefsScott Smithers and David Hopley

Coral Reefs, EmergedDavid Hopley

Cross-Shore Sediment TransportRichard J. Seymour

Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Sizeon Beaches

Philip D. Osborne

Cuspate ForelandsStephen J. Craig-Smith

Dalmatian CoastsDieter H. Kelletat

Dams, Effect on CoastsJiyu Chen

Deltaic EcologyJohn Rybczyk

DeltasShea Penland and Mark A. Kulp

Demography of Coastal PopulationsGeorge A. Maul and Iver W. Duedall

Depth of Closure on SandyCoasts

Andrew Morang and William A. Birkemeier

Depth of DisturbanceJohn P. Ahrens

DesalinationBénédicte Cherbuy and Jean-Christophe Aznar

Desert CoastsRodman E. Snead

Developed CoastsNancy L. Jackson and Karl F. Nordstrom

DikesPieter G. E. F. Augustinus

Dissipative BeachesDouglas J. Sherman

Dredging of Coastal EnvironmentsPer Bruun

Drift and Swash AlignmentsEric Bird

DriftwoodThomas A. Terich

Dune RidgesTerry R. Healy

Dynamic Equilibrium of BeachesRobert G. Dean

Economics of BeachesWilliam B. Stronge

El Niño–Southern Oscillation(ENSO)

Henry F. Diaz

Endogenic and Exogenic FactorsHenry Bokuniewicz

Energy and Sediment Budgets of the GlobalCoastal Zone

Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins

Engineering Applications of CoastalGeomorphology

John R. C. Hsu

Environmental QualityMichael J. Kennish

Eolian ProcessesPatrick A. Hesp

EolianiteEric Bird

Erosion of Coastal SystemsLuciana S. Esteves

Erosion ProcessesMichael R. Rampino

Erosion: Historical Analysis andForecasting

Mark Crowell, Stephen P. Leatherman andBruce Douglas

EstuariesTerry R. Healy

Estuaries: Anthropogenic ImpactsMichael J. Kennish

Europe, Coastal EcologyJ. Pat Doody

Europe, Coastal GeomorphologyAnja M. Scheffers and Dieter H. Kelletat

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CONTENTS xi

EustasyVivien Gornitz

Eustasy and Sea LevelErvin G. Otvos

Faulted CoastsRoland P. Paskoff

GeochronologyGerhard Schellmann, Helmut Brückner andDominik Brill

GeodesyMike P. Stewart

Geographic Information Systems (GIS)Shawn M. Boeser and Sarah M. Hamylton

Geographical Coastal ZonalityDieter H. Kelletat

Geohydraulic Research CentersJames R. Houston

Geomorphology and Sea LevelNiki Evelpidou

Geotextile ApplicationsRam K. Mohan and C. G. R. Nair

Glaciated CoastsDaniel F. Belknap

Global Positioning Systems (GPS)Shawn M. Boeser

Global Vulnerability AnalysisRobert J. Nicholls and Frank M. J. Hoozemans

Gravel BarriersJulian D. Orford

Gravel BeachesDavid P. Simpson, Jon Williams and Younes Nouri

Gross TransportRichard J. Seymour

Ground-Penetrating RadarIlya V. Buynevich and Duncan M. FitzGerald

Gulf Shorelines, Last Eustatic CycleErvin G. Otvos

Headland-Bay BeachLuis J. Moreno

Health BenefitsRoger H. Charlier, Marie Claire P. Chaineux andCharles W. Finkl

History of Coastal GeomorphologyH. Jesse Walker and Molly McGraw

History, Coastal EcologyJ. Pat Doody

History, Coastal ProtectionRoger H. Charlier and Charles W. Finkl

Holocene Coastal GeomorphologyDieter H. Kelletat

Holocene EpochNeil Roberts

Honeycomb WeatheringGeorge Mustoe

Human Impact on CoastsRichard A. Davis Jr.

Hydrology of the Coastal ZoneNick Cartwright and Diane P. Horn

Ice-Bordered CoastsH. Jesse Walker

Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal EcologyBaban Ingole

Indian Ocean Coasts, CoastalGeomorphology

G. N. Nayak

Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology andGeomorphology

M. Wafar, Sayeeda Wafar and Prasanna Yennavar

Ingression, Regression, and TransgressionHenry Bokuniewicz

IsostasyKurt Lambeck

Jet ProbesLindino A. Benedet and Charles W. Finkl

Karst CoastsRoland P. Paskoff

KlintAnto Raukas

Last InterglacialErvin G. Otvos

Late Quaternary Marine TransgressionNils-Axel Mörner

Lifesaving and Beach SafetyB. Chris Brewster

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_142

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_364

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_145

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_147

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_148

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_149

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_150

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_151

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_396

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_152

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_153

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_154

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_155

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_158

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_159

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_161

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_162

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_361

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_165

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_166

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_169

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_168

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_170

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_171

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_172

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_173

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_175

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_176

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_177

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_178

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_179

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_179

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_180

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_180

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_181

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_183

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_185

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_187

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_188

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_354

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_191

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_192

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xii CONTENTS

LittoralHenry Bokuniewicz

Littoral CellsDouglas L. Inman

Littoral Drift GradientTerry R. Healy

Longshore Sediment TransportRichard J. Seymour

MachairWilliam Ritchie

Managed RetreatWilliam J. Neal, David M. Bush and Orrin H. Pilkey

Mangroves, EcologyFrancois Blasco, M. Aizpuru and J. Besnehard

Mangroves, GeomorphologyEric Bird

Mangroves, Remote SensingFrancois Blasco, M. Aizpuru and D. Din Ndongo

Marine Debris-Onshore, Offshore, and SeafloorLitter

D. T. Tudor and A. T Williams

Marine LitterA. T. Williams

Marine ParksVincent May

Marine TerracesPaolo A. Pirazzoli

Mass WastingAlan S. Trenhaile

Meteorological Effects on CoastsGregory W. Stone and Robert A. Muller

Microtidal CoastsJ. Andrew G. Cooper

Middle America, Coastal Ecology andGeomorphology

Alejandro Yánez-Arancibia

Mining of Coastal MaterialsW. R. Osterkamp and R. A. Morton

Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and CoastalEvolution

Douglas L. Inman, Scott A. Jenkins and Patricia M.Masters

Modes and Patterns of Shoreline ChangeFrancis A. Galgano and Stephen P. Leatherman

Monitoring Coastal EcologyJ. Pat Doody

Monitoring Coastal GeomorphologyAndrew Morang and Laurel T. Gorman

Morphodynamic Stability of Tidal Inlet-BaySystems

Ashish J. Mehta and Earl J. Hayter

Muddy CoastsTerry R. Healy

Natural HazardsVivien Gornitz

Navigation StructuresNicholas C. Kraus

Nearshore Geomorphological MappingCharles W. Finkl and Christopher Makowski

Nearshore Sediment TransportMeasurement

Ping Wang

Nearshore Wave MeasurementPing Wang, Gregory W. Stone and Jun Cheng

Net TransportRichard J. Seymour

New Zealand, Coastal EcologyRussell Cole and Conrad Pilditch

New Zealand, Coastal Geomorphology andOceanography

Terry R. Healy

North America, Coastal EcologyMichael S. Kearney and J. Court Stevenson

North America, Coastal GeomorphologyDouglas J. Sherman

NotchesDieter H. Kelletat

Offshore Sand Banks and LinearSand Ridges

Randolph A. McBride

Offshore Sand SheetsMichael S. Fenster

Oil SpillsErich R. Gundlach

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_195

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_196

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_197

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_199

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_200

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_201

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_203

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_204

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_205

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_207

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_207

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_386

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_208

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_209

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_210

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_211

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_212

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_214

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_214

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_215

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_216

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_216

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_217

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_218

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_219

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_385

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_385

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_220

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_221

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_222

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_223

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_224

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_224

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_225

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_226

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_227

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_228

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_228

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_229

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_230

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_231

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_235

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_235

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_236

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_233

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1502

CONTENTS xiii

Oil Spills, High-Energy CoastsWilliam Ritchie

Open-Coast Tidal Flat DepositsPing Wang, Congxian Li and Jun Cheng

Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal EcologyMark D. Merlin

Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal GeomorphologyPatrick D. Nunn

Paired Baymouth SpitsJavier Alcántara-Carrió, Michel Michaelovitch deMahiques and Luana Portz

PaleocoastlinesJohn C. Kraft

Paraglacial CoastsDonald L. Forbes

PeatIan Shennan

PhotogrammetryE. Robert Thieler and Cheryl J. Hapke

Physical ModelsMichael S. Bruno

Placer DepositsPaul D. Komar

Pleistocene EpochDieter H. Kelletat

Pluvial Lake Shore DepositsDetlef A. Warnke and Hillert Ibbeken

PoldersJoost H. J. Terwindt

Pressure Gradient ForceGeorge A. Maul

RADARSAT-2Gordon C. Staples

Rating BeachesStephen P. Leatherman

ReclamationP. P. Wong

Reefs, Non-coralWilliam T. Fox

Reflective BeachesDouglas J. Sherman

Remote Sensing of Coastal EnvironmentsElijah W. Ramsey III

Remote Sensing: Wetlands ClassificationVictor V. Klemas

RhodolithsMarkes E. Johnson

Rhythmic PatternsPaul D. Komar

RiaEric Bird

Rip CurrentsRobert W. Brander

Ripple MarksCarl L. Amos, Hachem Kassem and Patrick L.Friend

Rock Coast ProcessesAlan S. Trenhaile

Salt MarshTerry R. Healy

Sand MiningCarl H. Hobbs III

Sand RightsKatherine Stone, Orville Magoon, Billy Edge andLesley Ewing

Sandy CoastsAndrew D. Short

Scour and Burial of Objects in Shallow WaterDouglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins

Seabed Roughness of Coastal WatersDilip K. Barua

Sea-Level and Climate ChangeJohn A. Church

Sea-Level Fluctuations over the LastMillennium

Phil J. Watson

Sea-Level Indicators, BiologicJacques Laborel and Françoise Laborel-Deguen

Sea-Level Indicators, GeomorphicPaolo A. Pirazzoli

Sea-Level Indicators: Biological in DepositionalSequences

David B. Scott and Franco S. Medioli

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_234

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_407

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_238

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_239

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_390

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_240

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_241

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_242

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_244

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_245

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_246

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_247

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_248

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_249

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_250

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_252

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_253

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_254

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_255

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_256

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_257

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_258

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_395

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_259

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_260

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_261

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_262

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_263

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_264

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_397

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_266

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_267

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_268

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_360

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_382

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_365

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_365

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_272

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_274

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_273

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_273

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xiv CONTENTS

Sediment BudgetJeffrey H. List

Sediment Suspension by WavesRowland J. Atkins

Sedimentary BasinsSaskia Jelgersma

Seismic DisplacementPaolo A. Pirazzoli

Sequence StratigraphyArthur D. Donovan

SetbacksMichael S. Fenster

Sharm CoastsDieter H. Kelletat

Shelf ProcessesA. W. Niedoroda

Shell MiddensSarah K. Campbell

Shore PlatformsWayne Stephenson and Robert Kirk

Shore Protection StructuresNicholas C. Kraus

ShorefaceH. Edward Clifton

Shoreline and Coastal Terrain MappingA. Pérez-Alberti, A. Pires and H. I. Chaminé

Shoreline Response to Littoral Drift BarriersMax Barton and Sally Brown

Simple Beach and Surf Zone ModelsJohn P. Ahrens

Small IslandsGeorge A. Maul

South America, Coastal EcologyAndré S. Barreto, Simone Rabelo da Cunha, OmarDefeo, Anita de Alava, Rosana Moreira da Rocha,Beatrice Padovani Ferreira, Mauro Maida, MônicaM. P. Tognella-De-Rosa, Carlos Emilio Bemvenutiand Joel C. Creed

South America, Coastal GeomorphologyNorbert P. Psuty and Chizuko Mizobe

SpitsTakaaki Uda

Storm SurgeVivien Gornitz

StrandflatTormod Klemsdal

Submarine Groundwater DischargeSteven L. Krupa and Cynthia J. Gefvert

Submerged CoastsWyss Wai-shu Yim

Submerging CoastsPaolo A. Pirazzoli

Surf ModelingMarshall D. Earle

Surf Zone ProcessesWilliam R. Dally

SurfingWilliam R. Dally

Swash Zone DynamicsTom Baldock

Synthetic Aperture RadarSystems

Keith Raney

TafoneGeorge Mustoe

Tectonics and NeotectonicsPaolo A. Pirazzoli

Thalassostatic TerracesRhodes W. Fairbridge

Thermal ExpansionNils-Axel Mörner

Tidal CreeksTerry R. Healy

Tidal DatumsEdward B. Hands

Tidal EnvironmentsB. W. Flemming

Tidal FlatsV. Semeniuk

Tidal InletsDuncan M. FitzGerald and Ilya V. Buynevich

Tidal PowerRoger H. Charlier and Charles W. Finkl

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_277

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_278

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_280

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_281

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_282

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_283

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_284

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_285

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_286

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_288

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_289

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_290

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_403

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_394

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_291

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_293

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_295

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_296

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_297

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_298

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_300

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_302

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_303

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_304

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_305

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_306

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_307

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_404

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_308

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_308

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_309

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_310

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_311

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_375

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_313

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_314

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_315

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_317

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_316

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_319

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1957

CONTENTS xv

Tidal PrismTerry M. Hume

Tide GaugesGuy Woppelmann and Paolo A. Pirazzoli

Tide MillRoger H. Charlier and Charles W. Finkl

Tide-Dominated CoastsMiles O. Hayes

TidesBruce Parker

Time Series ModelingV. Chris Lakhan

TorsMaurice Schwartz

Tourism and CoastalDevelopment

Marc L. Miller and Nina P. Hadley

Tourism, Criteria for Coastal SitesP. P. Wong

Tourist BeachesCamilo M. Botero, Juan A. Cabrera and SewerynZielinski

Tracers and Coarse SedimentPaolo Ciavola and Edoardo Grottoli

TrottoirsScott Smithers and David Hopley

Tsunami DepositsNils-Axel Mörner

Uplift CoastsTerry R. Healy

Vegetated CoastsDenise J. Reed

VibracoreCharles W. Finkl and Syed M. Khalil

Volcanic CoastsTerry R. Healy

VorticityGeorge A. Maul

Washover EffectsWilliam Ritchie

Water QualityKatherine Pond

Wave ClimateGeorge A. Maul

Wave EnvironmentsAndrew D. Short

Wave FocusingTerry R. Healy

Wave HindcastingDilip K. Barua

Wave PowerRoger H. Charlier and Charles W. Finkl

Wave Refraction DiagramsGerhard Masselink

Wave–Current InteractionPatricia L. Wiberg

Wave-Dominated CoastsMiles O. Hayes

WavesGerhard Masselink

Wave-Tide-Dominated CoastsEdward J. Anthony

Weathering in the Coastal ZoneRhodes W. Fairbridge

Wetland RestorationWilliam Streever

WetlandsDenise J. Reed

Appendix 1: Conversion Tables

Appendix 2: Glossary of CoastalGeomorphology

Author Index

Subject Index

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_320

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_322

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_323

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_321

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_324

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_325

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_327

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_328

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_328

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_329

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_401

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_330

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_331

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_369

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_333

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_334

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_335

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_337

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_336

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_338

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_340

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_342

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_345

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_346

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_347

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_348

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_349

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_343

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_344

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_350

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_341

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_351

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_353

https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93806-6_352

About the Editors

Charles W. Finkl is Distinguished University ProfessorEmeritus at Florida Atlantic University in Boca Raton,Florida, USA. He received B.Sc. and M.Sc. degrees fromOregon State University (Corvallis) and a Ph.D. from theUniversity of Western Australia (Perth). He is the SeriesEditor of the Encyclopedia of Earth Science Series (EESS)and the Series Editor of the Coastal Research Library(CRL), both published by Springer. He is a member ofthe Editorial Board of the International Journal of Envi-ronmental Studies published by Taylor & Francis. He isalso the President and Executive Director of the CoastalEducation and Research Foundation (CERF), an interna-tional marine science organization, that publishes the Jour-nal of Coastal Research (JCR) of which he was aco-founding editor and has been Editor-in-Chief for35 years. He has published numerous scientific papersand reports and is an editor or contributing author toseveral books. He is a certified professional in geologicalsciences (CPGS), soil science (CPSSc), and wetland sci-ence (PWS), and a Chartered Marine Scientist (Institute ofMarine Engineering, Science and Technology). He is therecipient of the International Beach Advocacy Award pre-sented by the Florida Shore and Beach Preservation Asso-ciation (Tallahassee, Florida); George V. Chilingar Medalof Honor, in recognition of important contributions tosciences and engineering (Russian Academy of NaturalSciences, USA Section, Los Angeles, California); LifetimeCommitment to Coastal Science Award, in recognition ofcontributions to the advancement of coastal sciences andglobal coastal issues through the Journal of CoastalResearch (JCR) and the International Coastal Symposium(ICS); Morrough P. O’Brien Award, in recognition of ded-ication to coastal research, beach protection, and dissemi-nation of coastal information by the American Shore andBeach Preservation Association (ASBPA). Charles was aneditor, coeditor, or author of many entries in several vol-umes in the EESS (i.e., Encyclopedias of: Soil Science;Applied Geology; Field and General Geology; Mineral-ogy; Beaches and Coastal Environments; Coastal Science;

Environmental Science; Natural Hazards; MarineGeosciences); editor of Soil Classification (BenchmarkPapers in Soil Science); and numerous entries in Funkand Wagnall’s New Encyclopedia (1983, 1989) andCompton’s Encyclopedia (Encyclopedia Britannica)(1986).

Christopher Makowski is a graduate of Florida AtlanticUniversity (Boca Raton, Florida, USA) and has earneddegrees with an emphasis on remote sensing ofbiogeomorphological resources (Ph.D.) and marine eco-system diversity and conservation (M.Sc.). For the pastdecade, he has served as the Senior Vice President andAssistant Director of the Coastal Education and ResearchFoundation, Inc. (CERF) and as the Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the internationally published Journal of CoastalResearch (JCR). He has published numerous peer-reviewed papers, authored several chapters, and coeditedand/or contributed to various volumes in Springer’sCoastal Research Library (CRL) Series. In addition tothese accomplishments, he is professionally recognizedby the American Academy of Underwater Sciences(AAUS); served as the Assistant Director of the MarineScience and Biological Research Division at the coastalengineering firm, Coastal Planning & Engineering (CPE);and held the position of Principal Marine Scientist for themunicipality of Collier County, Florida, USA. In additionto his academic and professional career, Dr. Makowski isalso a Certified Master Scuba Diver Trainer through theProfessional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI).Other professional registrations and certifications include:Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) Editorial Board Mem-ber, the International Society for Reef Studies (ISRS)Member, the Florida Association of Environmental Pro-fessionals (FAEP) Chapter Member, American Academyof Underwater Sciences (AAUS) Registered Diving SafetyOfficer, American Association for the Advancement ofScience (AAAS) Member, Coastal Education andResearch Foundation (CERF) Board of Directors

xviii ABOUT THE EDITORS

(Trustees), National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS)CertifiedMarineMammal and Protected Species Observer,Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI)Open Water Scuba Diver Instructor, PADI Enriched Air

Nitrox Specialty Instructor, Emergency First Responder(CPR/FirstAid/AED) Instructor, PADI Specialty Underwa-ter Photographer Instructor, and Divers Alert Network(DAN) Sustaining Member.

Contributors

John P. AhrensMason Neck, VA, USA

M. AizpuruLaboratoire d’Ecologie Terrestre (UMR 5552)Centre de TeledetectionToulouse Cedex 4, France

Javier Alcántara-CarrióInstituto OceanográficoUniversidade de São PauloSão Paulo, SP, Brazil

Carl L. AmosOcean and Earth SciencesUniversity of SouthamptonSouthampton, UK

Giorgio AnfusoDepartamento de Ciencias de la TerraUniversidad de CadizCadiz, Spain

Edward J. AnthonyAix Marseille University, Institut Universitaire de FranceCEREGEAix en Provence, France

Rowland J. AtkinsGolder Associates LtdVictoria, BC, Canada

Pieter G. E. F. AugustinusDepartment of Physical GeographyUniversity of UtrechtUtrecht, The Netherlands

Jean-Christophe AznarDesmid-CNRSArles, France

Tom BaldockSchool of Civil EngineeringUniversity of QueenslandSt Lucia/Brisbane, QLD, Australia

Martin J. BaptistWageningen University and Research (WUR)Wageningen, The Netherlands

André S. BarretoCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarUniversidade do Vale ItajaiItajai, SC, Brazil

Max BartonFaculty of Engineering and The EnvironmentUniversity of SouthamptonSouthampton, UK

Dilip K. BaruaCoastal, Port and Marine EngineeringVancouver, BC, Canada

Celene Milanés BatistaResearch Group in Environmental Management andSustainability, Department of Civil and EnvironmentalUniversidad de la Costa, BarranquillaAtlántico, ColombiaandMultidisciplinary Study Center of Coastal Zones(CEMZOC)Universidad de OrienteSantiago de Cuba, Cuba

xx CONTRIBUTORS

Daniel F. BelknapSchool of Earth and Climate SciencesUniversity of MaineOrono, ME, USA

Carlos Emilio BemvenutiCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarUniversidade do Vale ItajaiItajai, SC, Brazil

Lindino A. BenedetAPTIM (Coastal and Maritime Services)Boca Raton, FL, USA

J. BesnehardTOTAL FINA ELF-DGEP/AEOParis La Defence cedex, France

Eric BirdUniversity of MelbourneMelbourne, VIC, Australia

William A. BirkemeierCERC, US Army Waterways Experiment StationVicksburg, MS, USA

Francois BlascoCentre National de la Recherche ScientifiqueLaboratoire d’Écologie TerrestreUniversité Paul SabatierToulouse, France

Alan F. BlumbergJupiterHoboken, NJ, USA

Shawn M. BoeserVashon, WA, USA

Henry BokuniewiczSchool of Marine and Atmospheric SciencesStony Brook UniversityStony Brook, NY, USA

Camilo M. BoteroGrupo de Investigación Joaquin Aaron ManjarresUniversidad Sergio ArboledaSanta Marta, ColombiaandGrupo de Investigacion en Sistemas CosterosPlayas Corporacion LtdSanta Marta, Colombia

Robert W. BranderSchool of Biological, Earth and Environmental SciencesUNSW SydneySydney, NSW, Australia

B. Chris BrewsterUnited States Lifesaving AssociationSan Diego, CA, USA

Dominik BrillInstitute of GeographyUniversity of CologneKöln, Germany

Sally BrownFaculty of Engineering and The EnvironmentUniversity of SouthamptonSouthampton, UK

Helmut BrücknerInstitute of GeographyUniversity of CologneKöln, Germany

Michael S. BrunoDavidson LaboratoryStevens Institute of TechnologyHoboken, NJ, USA

Per BruunHilton Head Island, SC, USA

David M. BushDepartment of GeosciencesState University of West GeorgiaCarrollton, GA, USA

Ilya V. BuynevichDepartment of Earth and Environmental ScienceTemple UniversityPhiladelphia, PA, USA

Juan A. CabreraGrupo COSTATENASUniversidad de Matanzas Camilo CienfuegosMatanzas, Cuba

Gillian CambersCommonwealth Scientific and Industrial ResearchOrganisation (CSIRO)Rincon, PR, USA

CONTRIBUTORS xxi

Sarah K. CampbellDepartment of AnthropologyWestern Washington UniversityBellingham, WA, USA

Nick CartwrightGriffith Centre for Coastal Management and GriffithSchool of EngineeringGriffith UniversityGold Coast, QLD, Australia

Marie Claire P. ChaineuxInstitut Ste MarieBrussels, Belgium

H. I. ChaminéLABCARGA, Laboratory of Cartography and AppliedGeology, Department of Geotechnical EngineeringISEP, School of Engineering (ISEP), Polytechnic of PortoPorto, PortugalandCentre GeoBioTec (Georesources, Geotechnics andGeomaterials Research Group)University of AveiroAveiro, Portugal

Roger H. Charlier(Deceased)

Jiyu ChenDepartment of GeographyEast China Normal UniversityShanghai, China

Zhongyuan ChenDepartment of GeographyEast China Normal UniversityShanghai, China

Jun ChengSchool of Geosciences, Coastal Research LabThe University of South FloridaTampa, FL, USA

Bénédicte CherbuyCEFE-CNRSMontpellier, France

Michael J. ChrzastowskiIllinois State Geological SurveyChampaign, IL, USA

John A. ChurchClimate Change Research CentreUniversity of New South WalesSydney, NSW, Australia

Paolo CiavolaDepartment of Physics and Earth SciencesUniversity of FerraraFerrara, Italy

H. Edward CliftonUS Geological SurveyMenlo Park, CA, USA

Russell ColeNIWARNelson, New Zealand

J. Andrew G. CooperEnvironmental StudiesUniversity of UlsterColeraine, Northern Ireland

P. J. CowellCoastal Studies Unit Department of GeographyUniversity of SydneySydney, NSW, Australia

Stephen J. Craig-SmithSchool of Tourism and Leisure ManagementUQ Business SchoolThe University of QueenslandIpswich, Australia

Joel C. CreedCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarUniversidade do Vale ItajaiItajai, SC, Brazil

Mark CrowellFederal Insurance and Mitigation AdministrationFederal Emergency Management AgencyWashington, DC, USA

Simone Rabelo da CunhaCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarUniversidade do Vale ItajaiItajai, SC, Brazil

Rosana Moreira da RochaCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarUniversidade do Vale ItajaiItajai, SC, Brazil

xxii CONTRIBUTORS

Carlos Pereira da SilvaFacultade da Ciencias Sociales e HumanasUniversidade Nova de LisboaLisbon, Portugal

William R. DallySurfbreak Engineering Services, Inc.Melbourne Beach, FL, USA

Robin Davidson-ArnottDepartment of GeographyUniversity of GuelphGuelph, ON, Canada

Richard A. Davis, Jr.University of South FloridaTampa, FL, USAandHarte Research InstituteTexas A&M UniversityCorpus Christi, TX, USA

Anita de AlavaCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarUniversidade do Vale ItajaiItajai, SC, Brazil

Michel Michaelovitch de MahiquesInstituto OceanográficoUniversidade de São PauloSão Paulo, SP, BrazilandInstituto de Energia e AmbienteUniversidade de São PauloSão Paulo, SP, Brazil

Robert G. Dean(Deceased)

Omar DefeoMarine Science UnitUniversidad de la RepúblicaMontevideo, Uruguay

Henry F. DiazNOAA/OAR/CDCBoulder, CO, USA

John R. DinglerUS Geological Survey MS-999Menlo Park, CA, USA

Yuri DolotovInstitute ofWater Problems, Laboratory of HydrodynamicsRussian Academy of SciencesMoscow, Russia

Arthur D. DonovanBritish PetroleumHouston, TX, USA

J. Pat DoodyNational Coastal ConsultantsBrampton, Huntingdon, UK

Bruce DouglasLaboratory for Coastal ResearchFlorida International UniversityMiami, FL, USA

Iver W. DuedallEastern Florida State CollegeMelbourne, FL, USA

Marshall D. EarleNeptune Sciences, Inc.Reston, VA, USA

Billy EdgeDepartment of Civil EngineeringTexas A&M UniversityCollege Station, TX, USA

Karen S. EdyvaneSchool of Geography and Environmental StudiesUniversity of TasmaniaHobart, TAS, Australia

D. Eisma(Deceased)

Luciana S. EstevesDepartment of Life and Environmental SciencesFaculty of Science and TechnologyBournemouth UniversityPoole, UK

Niki EvelpidouFaculty of Geology and GeoenvironmentNational and Kapodistrian University of AthensAthens, Greece

Lesley EwingCSPBA, c/o California Coastal CommissionSan Francisco, CA, USA

Rhodes W. Fairbridge(Deceased)

Michael S. FensterEnvironmental Studies ProgramRandolph-Macon CollegeAshland, VA, USA

CONTRIBUTORS xxiii

Óscar FerreiraFCT/CIMAUniversidade do AlgarveFaro, Portugal

Charles W. FinklCoastal Education and Research FoundationAsheville, NC, USA

Duncan M. FitzGeraldDepartment of Earth and Environment SciencesBoston UniversityBoston, MA, USA

B. W. FlemmingSenckenberg InstituteWilhelmshaven, Germany

Donald L. ForbesAtlantic Geoscience CentreBedford Institute of OceanographyGeological Survey of CanadaDartmouth, NS, Canada

William T. FoxDepartment of GeologyCenter for Environmental StudiesWilliams CollegeWilliamstown, MA, USA

Patrick L. FriendPartrac Ltd.Glasgow, UK

Kazimierz FurmańczykInstitute of Marine and Coastal SciencesUniversity of SzczecinSzczecin, Poland

Francis A. GalganoDepartment of Geography and the EnvironmentVillanova UniversityVillanova, PA, USA

Cynthia J. GefvertSouth Florida Water Discharge Management DistrictWest Palm Beach, FL, USA

Guy GelfenbaumCoastal and Marine Geology ProgramUS Geological SurveyMenlo Park, CA, USA

Laurel T. GormanInformation Technology LaboratoryUS Army Waterways Experiment StationVicksburg, MS, USA

Vivien GornitzColumbia University/Center for Climate SystemsResearch (CCSR)Earth Institute Affiliate: Columbia University/GoddardInstitute for Space Studies (GISS)New York, NY, USA

David GreenlandDepartment of GeographyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge, LA, USA

Brian GreenwoodDivision of Physical SciencesUniversity of TorontoScarborough, ON, Canada

Edoardo GrottoliDepartment of Physics and Earth SciencesUniversity of FerraraFerrara, Italy

Erich R. GundlachE-Tech International Inc.Boulder, CO, USA

Peter L. GuthDepartment of OceanographyUS Naval AcademyAnnapolis, MD, USA

Nina P. HadleyTidal Delta ConsultingSeattle, WA, USA

Kevin R. HallDepartment of Civil EngineeringCentre for Water and the EnvironmentQueens UniversityKingston, ON, Canada

Jean-François HamelSociety for the Exploration and Valuing of theEnvironment (SEVE)Katevale, QC, Canada

Sarah M. HamyltonWollongong UniversityWollongong, NSW, Australia

Guoqi HanFisheries and Oceans CanadaNorthwest Atlantic Fisheries CentreSt. John’s, Canada

xxiv CONTRIBUTORS

Edward B. HandsVicksburg, MS, USA

J. D. HansomDepartment of Geography and Topographic ScienceUniversity of GlasgowGlasgow, Scotland, UK

Cheryl J. HapkeUSGS, Pacific Science CenterSanta Cruz, CA, USA

Miles O. HayesResearch Planning, Inc.Columbia, SC, USA

Earl J. HayterEnvironmental LabUS Army Engineering Research and Development CenterVicksburg, MS, USA

Terry R. Healy(Deceased)

Patrick A. HespDepartment of Geography and AnthropologyLouisiana State UniversityBaton Rouge, LA, USA

Carl H. Hobbs IIIVirginia Institute of Marine ScienceCollege of William & MaryGloucester Point, VA, USA

Frank M. J. HoozemansWL/Delft HydraulicsDelft, The Netherlands

David HopleyEnvironmental Science and ManagementCollege of Science and EngineeringJames Cook UniversityTownsville, QLD, Australia

Diane P. HornCongressional Research ServiceWashington, DC, USA

James R. HoustonCorps of EngineersU.S. Army Engineer Research and Development CenterVicksburg, MS, USA

John R. C. HsuDepartment of Marine Environment and EngineeringNational Sun Yat-Sen UniversityKaohsiung, Taiwan

Terry M. HumeDepartment of Scientific and Industrial ResearchDSIR-Marine and FreshwaterWater Quality CentreHamilton, New Zealand

Hillert IbbekenInstitut für Geologie, Geophysik und GeoinformatikFree University of BerlinBerlin, Germany

Baban IngoleBiology DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa, India

Douglas L. Inman(Deceased)

Nancy L. JacksonDepartment of Chemistry andEnvironmental ScienceNew Jersey Institute of TechnologyUniversity Heights, Newark, NJ, USA

Saskia Jelgersma(Deceased)

Scott A. JenkinsDepartment of Center for Coastal StudiesScripps Institution of OceanographyUniversity of California, San DiegoLa Jolla, CA, USA

Lucille Lewis JohnsonVassar CollegePoughkeepsie, NY, USA

Markes E. JohnsonDepartment of GeosciencesWilliams CollegeWilliamstown, MA, USA

Pavel Kaplin(Deceased)

Anna KarkaniFaculty of Geology and GeoenvironmentNational and Kapodistrian University of AthensAthens, Greece

Hachem KassemOcean and Earth SciencesUniversity of SouthamptonSouthampton, UK

CONTRIBUTORS xxv

Michael S. KearneyDepartment of Geography and AnthropologyUniversity of MarylandCollege Park, MD, USA

Dieter H. KelletatInstitut für Geographiedidaktik, Fachgruppeder Didaktiken der Mathematik und derNaturwissenschaftenUniversität zu KölnCologne, Germany

Michael J. KennishDepartment of Marine and Coastal Sciences,School of Environmental and Biological SciencesRutgers UniversityNew Brunswick, NJ, USA

Syed M. KhalilCoastal Protection and RestorationAuthority of LouisianaBaton Rouge, LA, USA

Robert KirkDepartment of Geography and Environmental StudiesUniversity of MelbourneMelbourne, VIC, Australia

Victor V. KlemasCollege of Earth, Ocean and EnvironmentUniversity of DelawareNewark, DE, USA

Tormod KlemsdalDepartment of GeographyUniversity of OsloOslo, Norway

Paul D. KomarCollege of Oceanic and Atmospheric SciencesOregon State UniversityCorvallis, OR, USA

John C. KraftDepartment of GeologyUniversity of DelawareNewark, DE, USA

Nicholas C. Kraus(Deceased)

Steven L. KrupaSouth Florida Water Discharge Management DistrictWest Palm Beach, FL, USA

Mark A. KulpDepartment of Geology and GeophysicsUniversity of New OrleansNew Orleans, LA, USA

Jacques Laborel(Deceased)

Françoise Laborel-DeguenUMR DIMARUniversité de la MéditerranéeMarseille, Cedex 9, France

Michael J. LaceCoastal Cave SurveyWest Branch, IA, USA

V. Chris LakhanDepartment of Earth Sciences, School of Physical SciencesUniversity of WindsorWindsor, ON, Canada

Kurt LambeckResearch School of Earth SciencesAustralian National UniversityCanberra, ACT, Australia

Stephen P. LeathermanDepartment of Earth and EnvironmentFlorida International UniversityMiami, FL, USA

Congxian LiMarine Geology LaboratoryTongji UniversityShanghai, People’s Republic of China

Honghai LiCoastal and Hydraulics LaboratoryU.S. Army Engineer Research and Development CenterVicksburg, MS, USA

Jeffrey H. ListUS Geological SurveyWoods Hole, MA, USA

Donald MacintoshDepartment of Ecology and GeneticsUniversity of AarhusAarhus, Denmark

M. MacLeodDepartment of Natural Resource EconomicsScottish Agricultural CollegeEdinburgh, Scotland, UK

xxvi CONTRIBUTORS

Orville Magoon(Deceased)

Mauro MaidaCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarUniversidade do Vale ItajaiItajai, SC, Brazil

Christopher MakowskiCoastal Education and Research FoundationCoconut Creek, FL, USA

Elin MárquezGrupo PichihuelUniversidad de La GuajiraRiohacha, Colombia

Ganivetth ManjarrésGrupo de Investigación AmbientalFundación Universitaria Tecnológico ComfenalcoCartagena, Colombia

Gerhard MasselinkDepartment of GeographyLoughborough UniversityLoughborough, UK

Patricia M. MastersScripps Institution of OceanographyUniversity of CaliforniaSan Diego, CA, USA

George A. MaulDepartment of Ocean Engineering and SciencesFlorida Institute of TechnologyMelbourne, FL, USA

Vincent MayDepartment of Conservation SciencesBournemouth UniversityPoole, Dorset, UK

Randolph A. McBrideDepartment of Geography and Earth ScienceGeorge Mason UniversityFairfax, VA, USA

Molly McGrawDepartment of Sociology and Criminal JusticeSoutheastern Louisiana UniversityHammond, LA, USA

John McKennaCoastal Studies Research GroupSchool of Environmental StudiesUniversity of UlsterColeraine, Northern Ireland, UK

Anton McLachlanCollege of ScienceSultan Qaboos UniversityMuscat, Oman

Andrew McMinnInstitute of Antarctic and Southern Ocean StudiesUniversity of TasmaniaHobart, TAS, Australia

Franco S. MedioliCentre for Marine GeologyDalhousie UniversityHalifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Ashish J. MehtaNutech Consultants, Inc.Gainesville, FL, USAandDepartment of Civil and Coastal EngineeringUniversity of FloridaGainesville, FL, USA

Annie MercierSociety for the Exploration and Valuing of theEnvironment (SEVE)Quebec, CanadaandDepartment of Ocean SciencesMemorial University of NewfoundlandNewfoundland and Labrador, Canada

Mark D. MerlinBiology ProgramUniversity of Hawaii at MānoaHonolulu, HI, USA

Marc L. MillerSchool of Marine and Environmental Affairs, College ofthe EnvironmentUniversity of WashingtonSeattle, WA, USA

Chizuko MizobeInstitute of Marine and Coastal Sciences, Sandy HookCooperative Research ProgramsRutgers UniversityHighlands, NJ, USA

Ram K. MohanBlasland, Bouck & Lee, Inc.W. Conshohocken, PA, USA

Andrew MorangCERC, US Army Waterways Experiment StationVicksburg, MS, USA

CONTRIBUTORS xxvii

Luis J. MorenoSubdirección General de Actuaciones en la Costa,Dirección General de Costas, Secretaría de Estado deAguas y CostasMinisterio de Medio AmbienteMadrid, Spain

Nils-Axel MörnerPaleogeophysics and GeodynamicsStockholm, Sweden

R. A. MortonCenter for Coastal GeologyUS Geological SurveySt. Petersburg, FL, USA

Robert A. MullerCoastal Studies InstituteLouisiana State University (LSU)Baton Rouge, LA, USA

Gisèle Muller-ParkerDepartment of BiologyWestern Washington UniversityBellingham, WA, USA

George MustoeDepartment of Geology, MS 9080Western Washington UniversityBellingham, WA, USA

C. G. R. NairScience, Technology and Environment DepartmentUniversity of KeralaThiruvananthapuram, Kerala, India

G. N. NayakDepartment of Marine SciencesGoa UniversityGoa, India

D. Din NdongoUniversity of DoualaDouala, Cameroon

William J. NealDepartment of GeologyGrand Valley State UniversityAllendale, MI, USA

Robert J. NichollsCoastal GeomorphologyMiddlesex UniversityLondon, UK

A. W. NiedorodaURS CorporationTallahassee, FL, USA

Yaacov NirRehovot, Israel

Karl F. NordstromDepartment of Marine and Coastal SciencesRutgers UniversityNew Brunswick, NJ, USA

Younes NouriCoast & Harbor Engineering Inc.Mott MacDonald L.L.CEdmonds, WA, USA

Patrick D. NunnDepartment of GeographyUniversity of the South PacificSuva, Fiji

George F. OertelDepartment of OceanographyOld Dominion UniversityNorfolk, VA, USA

Julian D. OrfordSchool of GeographyQueen’s UniversityBelfast, UK

Antony R. OrmeDepartment of GeographyUniversity of CaliforniaLos Angeles, CA, USA

Philip D. OsborneGolder Associates Ltd.Vancouver, BC, Canada

W. R. OsterkampUS Geological SurveyTucson, AZ, USA

Ervin G. OtvosDivision of Coastal SciencesUniversity of Southern MississippiOcean Springs, MS, USA

Beatrice Padovani FerreiraCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarUniversidade do Vale ItajaiItajai, SC, Brazil

xxviii CONTRIBUTORS

Bruce ParkerCoast Survey Development LaboratoryNational Ocean Service, NOAASilver Spring, MD, USA

Roland P. Paskoff(Deceased)

Shea Penland(Deceased)

Cristina I. PereiraDepartamento de Ciencias de la TierraUniversidad EAFITMedellín, Colombia

A. Pérez-AlbertiLET-ITR, Laboratory of Environmental Technology(Geomorphology Area), Institute of TechnologicalResearchUniversity of Santiago de CompostelaSantiago de Compostela, Spain

Conrad PilditchDepartment of Biological SciencesUniversity of WaikatoHamilton, New Zealand

Orrin H. PilkeyNicholas School of the EnvironmentEarth and Ocean Sciences DivisionDuke UniversityDurham, NC, USA

Paolo A. Pirazzoli(Deceased)

A. PiresINESC-TEC, Institute for Systems and ComputerEngineering, Technology and ScienceCRAS, Centre for Robotics and Autonomous Systems,School of Engineering (ISEP), Polytechnic of PortoPorto, PortugalandLABCARGA, Laboratory of Cartography andApplied Geology, Department ofGeotechnical EngineeringISEP, School of Engineering (ISEP),Polytechnic of PortoPorto, Portugal

Katherine PondDepartment of Civil and Environmental EngineeringUniversity of SurreyGuildford, Surrey, UK

Luana PortzResearch group in Environmental Management andSustainability, Faculty of Environmental SciencesUniversidad de la CostaBarranquilla, Atlántico, Colombia

E. PranziniDipartimento di Scienze della TerraUniversity of FlorenceFlorence, Italy

Abel PrieurCentre de Paleontologie stratagraphique et PleoecologieVilleurbanne Cedex, France

Norbert P. PsutyInstitute of Marine and Coastal Sciences, Sandy HookCooperative Research ProgramsRutgers UniversityHighlands, NJ, USA

Michael R. RampinoEarth and Environmental Science ProgramNew York UniversityNew York, NY, USA

Elijah W. Ramsey IIINational Wetlands Research CenterUS Geological SurveyLafayette, LA, USA

Keith Raney(Deceased)

Nelson Rangel-BuitragoProgramas de Física y Biología, Facultad de CienciasBásicasUniversidad del AtlánticoBarranquilla, Atlántico, Colombia

Anto RaukasInstitute of GeologyEstonian Academy of SciencesTallinn, Estonia

Denise J. ReedDepartment of Geology and GeophysicsUniversity of New OrleansNew Orleans, LA, USA

William RitchieAberdeen Institute of Coastal Science and ManagementKing’s CollegeAberdeen, Scotland, UK

CONTRIBUTORS xxix

Neil RobertsSchool of GeographyUniversity of PlymouthPlymouth, UK

Peter S. RosenDepartment of Earth and Environmental SciencesNortheastern UniversityBoston, MA, USA

John RybczykHuxley College of the EnvironmentWestern Washington UniversityBellingham, WA, USA

Yoshiki SaitoGeological Survey of JapanNational Institute of Advanced Industrial Science andTechnologyTsukuba, JapanandEstuary Research CenterShimane UniversityMatsue, Japan

Paul SanlavilleMaison de l’Orient MéditerranéenLyon, France

Alessandra SaponieriDepartment of Civil, Environmental, Land, BuildingEngineering and Chemistry (DICATECh)Polytechnic University of BariBari, Italy

Anja M. ScheffersSouthern Cross UniversityLismore, Australia

Gerhard SchellmannDepartment of Physical Geographyand Landscape StudiesUniversity of BambergBamberg, Germany

Maurice Schwartz(Deceased)

David B. ScottDepartment of Earth SciencesDalhousie UniversityHalifax, NS, Canada

V. SemeniukWetlands Research AssociationV & C Semeniuk Research GroupWarwick, WA, Australia

Richard J. Seymour(Deceased)

Ian ShennanDepartment of GeographyUniversity of DurhamDurham, UK

Charles R. C. SheppardDepartment of Biological SciencesUniversity of WarwickCoventry, UK

Douglas J. ShermanDepartment of GeographyUniversity of AlabamaTuscaloosa, AL, USA

Andrew D. ShortSchool of GeosciencesUniversity of SydneySydney, NSW, Australia

Parmeshwar L. ShresthaExponent, Inc.Irvine, CA, USA

David P. SimpsonCoast & Harbor Engineering Inc.Mott MacDonald L.L.CEdmonds, WA, USA

Scott SmithersEnvironmental Science and ManagementCollege of Science and EngineeringJames Cook UniversityTownsville, QLD, Australia

Rodman E. Snead(Deceased)

Gordon C. StaplesRADARSAT InternationalRichmond, Canada

Wayne StephensonDepartment of Geography and Environmental StudiesUniversity of MelbourneMelbourne, VIC, Australia

xxx CONTRIBUTORS

J. Court StevensonHorn Point LaboratoryUniversity of Maryland Center for Environmental ScienceCambridge, MA, USA

Mike P. StewartSchool of Spatial SciencesCurtin University of TechnologyPerth, Australia

Robert R. StickneyTexas Sea Grant College ProgramCollege Station, TX, USA

Marcel J. F. StiveDepartment of Hydraulic EngineeringFaculty Civil Engineering and GeosciencesDelft University of TechnologyDelft, The Netherlands

Gregory W. Stone(Deceased)

Katherine StoneMeyers, Widders, Gibson, and Long, LLPVentura, CA, USA

William StreeverBP Exploration (Alaska) Inc.Anchorage, AL, USA

William B. StrongeFlorida Atlantic UniversityBoca Raton, FL, USAandHuizenga College of BusinessNova Southeastern UniversityFort Lauderdale, FL, USA

Tsuguo SunamuraDepartment of Earth and Space SciencesOsaka UniversityOsaka, Japan

Toru TamuraGeological Survey of JapanNational Institute of Advanced Industrial Science andTechnologyTsukuba, JapanandDepartment of Natural Environmental StudiesGraduate School of Frontier SciencesUniversity of TokyoKashiwa, Japan

Thomas A. TerichCenter for Geography, MS9085 Huxley CollegeWestern Washington UniversityBellingham, WA, USA

Joost H. J. TerwindtDepartment of Physical GeographyState University of UtrechtUtrecht, The Netherlands

E. Robert ThielerCoastal and Marine Geology ProgramUS Geological SurveyWoods Hole, MA, USA

B. G. ThomFaculty of Built EnvironmentUniversity of New South WalesSydney, NSW, Australia

Mônica M. P. Tognella-De-RosaCentro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do MarUniversidade do Vale ItajaiItajai, SC, Brazil

Alan S. TrenhaileGeography DepartmentUniversity of WindsorWindsor, ON, Canada

D. T. TudorPelagos/TCELondon, UK

Robert J. TurnerInterdisciplinary Arts and SciencesUniversity of WashingtonBothell, WA, USA

Takaaki UdaPublic Works Research CenterTaito, Taito-ku, Japan

Frank van der MeulenFrank van der Meulen ConsultancyVoorschoten, South Holland, The Netherlands

Bert van der ValkDeltares, Unit Marine and Coastal SystemsDelft, The Netherlands

M. WafarBiological Oceanography DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa, India

CONTRIBUTORS xxxi

Sayeeda WafarBiological Oceanography DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa, India

H. Jesse Walker(Deceased)

Martyn WallerSchool of GeographyKingston UniversityKingston-upon-Thames, Surrey, UK

Ping WangSchool of Geosciences, Coastal Research LabThe University of South FloridaTampa, FL, USA

Shin WangDepartment of GeographyNational Taiwan UniversityTaipei, Taiwan, ROC

Detlef A. WarnkeDepartment of Geological SciencesCalifornia State UniversityHayward, CA, USA

Phil J. WatsonSchool of Civil and Environmental EngineeringUniversity of New South WalesSydney, NSW, Australia

Niels WestDepartment of Marine AffairsUniversity of Rhode IslandKingston, RI, USA

Patricia L. WibergDepartment of Environmental SciencesUniversity of VirginiaCharlottesville, VA, USA

A. T. WilliamsFaculty of Architecture Computing and EngineeringUniversity of Wales, Trinity St. DavidSwansea, Wales, UKandCICA NOVANova Universidad de LisboaLisbon, Portugal

Jon WilliamsPorts, Coastal and OffshoreMott MacDonaldCroydon, UK

P. P. WongDepartment of GeographyNational University of SingaporeSingapore, Singapore

Guy WoppelmannCentre Littoral de GeophysiqueUniversite de La RochelleLa Rochelle, France

Alejandro Yáñez-ArancibiaPrograma de Recursos CosterosDivision de Recurso NaturalesInstituto de Ecologia A.C.Xalapa, Mexico

Prasanna YennavarBiological Oceanography DivisionNational Institute of OceanographyDona Paula, Goa, India

Wyss Wai-shu YimDepartment of Earth SciencesUniversity of Hong KongHong Kong, China

Seweryn ZielinskiSeoul National UniversitySeoul, Republic of Korea

Preface to the Second Edition

This two-volume set is an update or upgrade to the original critical importance to the environment and human well-
Encyclopedia of Coastal Science that was edited by Mau-rice Schwartz (Western Washington University, Belling-ham, Washington, USA). The first edition, a mammothvolume of 1211 pages, was published in 2005 by Springer.At that time, Rhodes W. Fairbridge (Columbia University,New York City, New York, USA) was the Series Editor ofthe Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series. Rhodes was thefounding editor of the Series with the first volume (TheEncyclopedia of Oceanography) appearing in 1966 underthe imprimatur of the Van Nostrand Reinhold Company(New York). Interestingly, Maurice Schwartz received hisdoctoral degree under the tutelage of Dr. Fairbridge whileinvestigating geomorphological, sedimentological, andgeospatial relationships of sandy beaches resulting fromsea-level rise within the purview of field observations,wave tank experiments, and conceptual frameworks ini-tially worked out and formalized by Per Bruun. Uponconcluding his studies, Maurice codified some basic prin-ciples in his dissertation into what he called the “BruunRule,” which today still evokes appreciation, speculation,and sometimes even contention.
Notwithstanding the term itself, it is perhaps emblem-atic of broader issues, conceptual interpretations, anddivergent points of view in the coastal sciences as thediscipline matures into a stand-alone multidisciplinaryendeavor that touches aspects of many pure and appliedsciences, not the least of which includes the human attri-butes of coasts that touch in some way the lives of much ofthe world’s population. Today, about 45% of the world’spopulation lives within 150 km of the coast and as popu-lation density and economic activity in the coastal zoneincreases, so do pressures on coastal ecosystems. Coastalareas comprise about 20% of the Earth’s surface and by theyear 2025, it is estimated that coastal populations willaccount for 75% of the total world population (WorldOcean Network). As such, coastal-marine science dealswith an important part of the Earth’s surface and a signif-icant portion of the global human population in a region of

being.The total length of global coastlines is somewhat of an

enigma due tomany complicating factors such as tortuosityof the shore itself. That is to say, the rougher coastlines are(in plan view), the more their fractal nature increases, andthe more difficult it becomes to determine shoreline lengthbecause it varies by scale and resolution. That being said, itis a general consensus that the global shoreline length is inthe range or on the order of 1.16 million km (WorldFactbook) to 1.63 million km (World Resources Institute).Complicating the issue still further, this work does not dealwith shorelines or “coastlines” per se but with “coasts” inthe broadest sense of the term that includes some indeter-minate distances alongshore, offshore, and onshore.

The Encyclopedia of Coastal Science thus deals with allaspects of “processes, features, and areas” along the coastin what is commonly referred to as the “coastal zone.” Thismultifaceted region, which functions as the interfacebetween land and water, is studied within the purview ofland-, marine-, and estuarine-based sciences and engineer-ing, where concepts, principles, and practices are oftenseen to interdigitate, overlap, and interlock in various man-ners to produce a cohesive perspective that commonly fallsunder the aegis of coastal science. Not to be forgotten is thehuman side of all these approaches because the coastalzone attracts all manner of endeavor to the extent thatmodern demographics show dangerously high concentra-tions of industrial, commercial, military, transportive, andtouristic uses. The human component of the coastal zone,which is naturally dynamic, is to various degrees interwo-ven into aspects of most studies in this region and mayfocus, for example, on aspects of shoreline retreat (coastalerosion) and remediation efforts, both natural and engi-neering, or fear or concern over global climate changeand attenuated processes such as sea-level rise and theconsequences for low-lying coastal areas, whether real orimagined within specified time frames. These high humanpopulation densities and associated activities already

xxxiv PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION

threaten about one-third of all coastal regions with envi-ronmental degradation from infrastructure developmentand pollution. The scope of this coastal encyclopedia isthus wide ranging, broadly based, and yet detailed inapproach.

This second edition has been thoroughly updated andmodified where required. Because a number of topics dealtwith subject matters that were rather static (190 topics),such as the coastal ecology, geomorphology, geology, andclimatology of particular geographic regions, they werereprinted as per the first edition unless changes(corrections) were required. Many other topics wereupdated (94 topics) because there were important advancesin the subject matter as the knowledge base increased. Andsince 2005, there have been many scientific and technicaldevelopments that warranted inclusion of new topics(43 topics), adding significantly to the corpus of thisencyclopedic work.

Preparation of the second edition required a thoroughreview and evaluation of topics included in the first editionthat involved correspondence with previous authors. Theircomments and recommendations were invaluable to ourefforts as we relied heavily on their expertise in our adju-dication. This task was complicated by the fact that somefirst-edition authors had passed on, others were retired, andsome were not able to participate as desired. In thoseinstances the editors themselves reviewed the existing doc-uments, often with the assistance of outside reviewers toensure adequate coverage. When all of that was said anddone, it became clear that many new topics needed to beincluded in the second edition and again we appreciated theassistance of peer review from associates. We thank theSpringer staff for their diligent attention to the details ofproduction because without their help this task would havebeen monumental on our own. Kudos to them for manag-ing the computerized databases and for keeping us on atimely schedule.

As the current Series Editor of the Encyclopedia ofEarth Sciences Series, I am honored to pick up where

Maurice Schwartz left off and offer this second edition ofthe Encyclopedia of Coastal Science. It will be a timelyreference in a field of study that is rapidly changing inresponse to increases in human utilization of the coastalzone and environmental impacts that are related to globalclimate change and potential sea-level rise. Having com-pleted my doctoral studies at the University of WesternAustralia (Perth), I came to know Rhodes as this was hisalma mater and we collaborated on many local researchitems. When I returned to the United States, I had theopportunity to apprentice under Rhodes Fairbridge byworking on the encyclopedia series with him and in thatunderstudy, or apprenticeship, I was able to learn from hisknowledge and wisdom. It thus seems fitting that this newedition of the Encyclopedia of Coastal Science comesunder the co-editorship of myself and Chris Makowski,who has now assumed the apprentice role under me. I ampassing on the skills that I once learned long ago, and bothChris and I are proud to make the Encyclopedia of EarthSciences Series even stronger with this latest edition to thecoastal research community.

Last but not least, we wish to again thank the Springerstaff for their diligence and assistance with the revision ofthis work. They worked long hours and tirelessly assistingwith correspondence, communication, and data manage-ment to ensure a smooth workflow and provide as collegialan environment as possible for a complicated task thatinvolved numerous authors and support staff. The workfor all of us was not onerous, but it was at times tedious,time consuming, and somewhat exhausting. The end resultjustified all efforts to produce the best revision possible.We thus thank, in particular, the following Springer stafffor their welcomed support: Petra van Steenbergen, SylviaBlago, and Johanna Klute.

Charlie FinklChris Makowski

Preface to the First Edition

Map measurements of the world’s coastline length have it has been defined by the US Coast and Geodetic Survey
yielded a figure of 500,000 km. However, when all of thevery real and intricate coastal crenulations are considered,the actual length is probably closer to 1,000,000km. Added to this is the fact that 40% of the6,000,000,000 people presently inhabiting the earth livewithin 100 km of a coastline. From these observations, itcan be seen that coasts are a very major geomorphic andsocial feature on the face of the planet. And for this reason,scholars in a multitude of disciplines have long beenstudying the many facets of the zone where the landmeets the sea.
In this collected volume, authorities in many fieldsexpound on certain aspects of their expertise, not somuch in a dictionary of terms sense as in a series of essaysthat may be broken down into such categories as: atmo-sphere and oceanography, ecology, engineering and tech-nology, geomorphology, and human activities related tothe coasts (see Appendix 6: Topic Categories). The readermay not completely agree with some of their views; in fact,some of the authors do not agree entirely with each other.Perusing through professional journals in these fieldswould show the same variety of opinions on a giventopic. For that is the nature of science, holding forth on asubject as interpreted by long and careful study of theevidence. What is then to be found here, between thecovers of this volume, are 306 entries that contain a wealthof information on different aspects of the world’s coast,which we all hold so dear. If there are any questions ofomissions or judgment, the fault then lies entirely with me,the editor.

In a similar vein, one would expect the terminology of ascience to have universal acceptance; but, sadly, that is notthe case. For example, the ubiquitous term “shoreline” canbe employed in the historical geomorphic sense of the lineformed by the edge of the water against the land as it risesand falls through tidal cycles or atmospheric changes; or as

for mapping purposes as the high-tide line, high-water line,or wet–dry boundary. In order for the term to mean thesame thing wherever it appears in this volume the geomor-phic meaning has been adopted, or clarified where it hasdeviated from that. For further clarification of this dichot-omy, the reader is referred to the entry titled Coasts, Coast-lines, Shores, and Shorelines.

Though there have been many trials and tribulationsduring the four to five years that it has taken to bring thisvolume to publication, there have also been moments ofhumor that lightened the load along the way. While expla-nations for late contributions ran rampant, none was moreacceptable than that from the contributor down-under who,while working on a major topic, brought forth two “bubs”(a girl and a boy) to add to an already large family. Forsheer inventiveness to a contributor who did not want torepeat a previously published survey, that progressedaround a continent in a clockwise fashion, there was youreditor’s suggestion that he simply proceed in a counter-clockwise direction. In the end it came out only halfwaythere. Then too, probably the best single line in any entrycontained here is the quote to the effect that a certaincoastal feature is “. . . rather like pornography—difficultto define, but you know it when you see it!” That couldonly be topped by correspondence from another down-under contributor who used wildly colorful expressionsthat cannot even be repeated here.

Of course, I ammost appreciative to all of the very manypeople who have been involved in this project. However,two individuals stand out most significantly. The first andforemost is the editor-in-chief of this earth-science ency-clopedia series, Rhodes Fairbridge, who has been myteacher, mentor, and friend for the past 40 years. Thesecond is Peter Binfield, my editor at Kluwer AcademicPublishers, who has guided me through this project withexpertise, patience, and humor. To both of these

xxxvi PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION

gentlemen, I offer my most profound gratitude. Thanks arealso due to Russ Burmester, Vicki Critchlow, GeneHoerauf, Larry Palmer, Kevin Short, and Chris Sutton, atWestern Washington University, for considerable technicalsupport.

Sadly, media specialist Kevin Short, who worked hiscomputer magic on many graphics in the volume including

the cover photo, passed away suddenly in January of2004 at the age of 44. Colleagues and friends alike willmiss Kevin and remember him for his kindness, humor,and creativity.

Maurice Schwartz

encyclopedia of coastal science978-3-319-93806...africa, coastal ecology 4 anton mclachlan africa,...

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