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A R EMPOWERM INCOME GE EMBELL (MRP(S) 0 Dep Assum Changanac UNIVERSITY Report of Minor Research Project MENT OF WOMEN THR ENERATING TAILORIN LISHMENT TECHNIQU FINAL REPORT MANJULIN JACOB 081913-14/KLMG034/UGC-SWR Associate Professor partment of Home Science mption Autonomous College cherry, Kottayam, Kerala, 68 SUBMITED TO Y GRANTS COMMISSION, New July 2017 ROUGH NG AND UES RO) 86101 w Delhi

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A R

EMPOWERMENT OF WOMEN THROU

INCOME GENERATING TAILORING AND

EMBELLISHMENT TECHNIQUES

(MRP(S) 081913

Department of Home Science

Assumption

Changanacherry, Kottayam, Kerala, 686101

UNIVERSITY GRANTS COMMISSION, New Delhi

A Report of Minor Research Project

EMPOWERMENT OF WOMEN THROU

INCOME GENERATING TAILORING AND

EMBELLISHMENT TECHNIQUES

FINAL REPORT

MANJULIN JACOB

081913-14/KLMG034/UGC-SWRO)

Associate Professor

Department of Home Science

Assumption Autonomous College

Changanacherry, Kottayam, Kerala, 686101

SUBMITED TO

UNIVERSITY GRANTS COMMISSION, New Delhi

July 2017

EMPOWERMENT OF WOMEN THROUGH

INCOME GENERATING TAILORING AND

EMBELLISHMENT TECHNIQUES

SWRO)

Changanacherry, Kottayam, Kerala, 686101

UNIVERSITY GRANTS COMMISSION, New Delhi

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CONTENTS

1. INTRODUCTION

2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE

3. METHODOLOGY

4. RESULT AND DISCUSSION

5. CONCLUSION

6. REFERENCES

7. APPENDIX

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CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION

Empowering women is a prerequisite for creating a good nation. When

women are empowered, society with stability is assured. Empowerment of

women is essential as their thoughts and their value systems lead to the

development of a good family, good society and ultimately a good nation–

A.P.J. Abdul Kalam.

The status of women in Indian society has changed from time to time

and the present position of women in society is the index to the standard of

social organization. Women’s position in modern Indian society is equal to that

of men socially, economically, educationally, politically and legally. In modern

India, as a result of their newly gained freedom, women have occupied

positions in various spheres of life being a politician, orator, lawyer, doctor,

engineer, administrator, diplomat, business woman, entrepreneur, etc.

Women have always been marginalized and relegated to the status of

subjugated class in the Indian society. Especially in rural areas, women have

not actively participated in their emancipation due to their lack of economic

independence and illiteracy. The women need vocational training or skills also

to uplift their status. They should be able to stand on their feet and be an

earning member of the family.

Empowerment in the context of women’s development is a way of

defining, challenging and overcoming barriers in a woman’s life through which

she increases her ability to shape her life and environment. It is an active,

multidimensional process, which should enable women to realize their full

identity and power in all spheres of life.

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A few decades back women were married at an early age and their focus

was centered on their family. The majority were uneducated and ignorant of the

conditions prevailing in the country. The post-independent period has

witnessed a significant improvement in women’s education in India. For

women to be empowered they should be financially, socially, educationally,

professionally, politically, and legally, independent. Among the above

variables, economic empowerment is the basis of all other variables in order to

enhance their financial stability either by seeking job or doing self-employment

or becoming an entrepreneur.

Women comprise half of the population of the world but their right is

violated virtually in every society. The most resent approach to women in

development has been empowerment, which implies empowerment of women

at grass root level with emphasis on self reliance. The empowerment of women

is not restricted to any specific class or group of women. It is the requirement

of all women equally to avoid redundancy.

Although women make up half of the world population, their

participation in various activities is not the same as men’s even today. Without

the participation of women in the development process, society as a whole

cannot be said to develop sufficiently. Nevertheless, due to gender

discrimination, women tend to be granted an inferior status in nearly every

aspect of life. The discrimination that they face is greater and more in

developing countries than in developed countries.

The best way that deals to empowerment is through employment and

employment needs skills. Skill means any skill and for every women, educated

or illiterate there are relevant skills that make them useful and qualified for

good or better employment. Thus empowered, a women acquires respectability,

independence and reliance on her on self. Then she is no longer a powerless

being and is well guarded against dependence and any potential abuse.

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Studies show that, there are number of programmes designed and

implemented for the economic empowerment of women in all areas. DWCRA,

TRYSEM, VISTA are projects for empowering women through craft training

at the grass root. A large number of vocational training institutes and voluntary

organizations conduct courses in tailoring and embroideries for women. The

problem would not be solved by mere gifting of sewing machines or an overall

training in sewing and embroideries alone.

Commercialization of production called for a modification in design and

product range to suit the market adapting changing trends, that generates

incomes, there by assists in the economic advancement and increases

confidence and self esteem among women.

Empowerment of women is a long cherished aim and various means are

employed to reach out to women to help them to attain status, to make free

decisions, and live a life of better standard. Empowerment, in no sense, means

to ignore home or rebel against values but empowerment is a positive

phenomenon for noble cause of a better respectable life. This positive aim must

be and can be attained well within our social values and the end is prosperity

and self reliance. Women are the foundation of any community and if she is

empowered, a family, and eventually an entire community are also empowered.

The role of women in the development of society is of at most

importance. In fact, it is the only thing that determines whether a society is

strong and harmonious in the present age of lack of resources, inflation,

economic depletion, any individual and more so a women cannot survive a

dependent .in case of widows, separation, by birth and accidental disability,

women go totally alienated and some even look up to the charity of relatives. In

such cases also the need for empowerment goes more intense for sustenance.

Upliftment of women underprivileged, educated or illiterate will not happen

unless they are economically empowered. Realities of life are a challenge and

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this challenge has to be met with positive courage and that is to go empowered

in all conditions and circumstances. A woman without a skill cannot be a good

tool to contribute to any field of life and can never be an earning hand.

Project Aim- To empower the women and equip them with tools to become

self-reliant through stitching and tailoring skill up gradation programme.

Objective

The present project entitled “empowerment of women through income

generating tailoring and embellishment techniques” is aimed out with the

following objectives.

To impart knowledge regarding the basics of tailoring

To teach various surface embellishment techniques.

To give practical training in stitching of marketable home textiles.

To evaluate the training programme.

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CHAPTER 2

REVIEW OF LITERATURE

The literature collected for the study on Empowerment of women

through income generating tailoring and embellishment techniques “is given

under the following headings.

2.1 WOMEN EMPOWERMENT

2.2 SOFT FURNISHINGS

2.3 HOME LINENS

2.4 CUSHION FABRICS

2.5 TYPES OF CUSHIONS

2.6 TRIMS AND DECORATION

2.7 BASIC STITCHES

2.8 PRINTING AND DYEING

2.9 EMBROIDERY STITCHES

2.1 WOMEN EMPOWERMENT

Women’s empowerment has been pointed out as an indispensable

condition to reduce poverty in developing countries of the world. Also, it has

been closely related to democratization of those countries, in providing women

with rights and opportunities equal to those which men have enjoyed so far.

Despite its significance, the issue cannot be said to be solved easily, because

there are many factors that prevent its progress.

The United Nations Population Information Network indicates that

women’s empowerment consists of five dimensions: 1) women’s sense of self-

worth; 2) choices; 3) access to opportunities and resources; 4) the power to

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control their own lives; and 5) the ability to influence the direction of social

change (POPIN, 1995). Accordingly, the issue of women’s empowerment

depends upon having sufficient control over resources, personal capacity, and

sense of self-confidence and self-efficacy, as well as on changing traditional

ideology (Sen & Batliwala, 2000).

Fatema (1994) defines empowerment as an essential process that

includes the confrontation and acquisition of psychological readiness,

analytical and organizational skills. According to her explanation,

empowerment possesses both an individual and a collective dimension. Rural

Women’s Empowerment through Self-income Generating Activities.

Esther Duflo (2011) observed that women’s empowerment and

economic development are closely related: in one direction, development alone

can play a major role in driving down inequality between men and women; in

the other direction, empowering women may benefit development. Does this

imply that pushing just one of these two levers would set a virtuous circle in

motion? Asharani and Sriramappa (2014) in their study have observed that

women are very good entrepreneurs and prefer to choose entrepreneurship as

they can maintain work life balance.

Educated women are involved in entrepreneurial activities in urban

areas. Family support is found to be essential for successful entrepreneurship.

The RUDSETIs and SHGs movement, banking facilities and skill awareness

programs are helping in promoting women entrepreneurs.

Palaneeswari and Sasikala (2012) have observed that a change has to be

brought about not only in the status of women but in the attitude of the society

towards them. Priority has therefore necessarily to be given to changing image

of women, from a passive onlooker and recipient, to that of a positive doer and

achiever. Basically, the rural women are having basic indigenous knowledge,

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skill, potential and resources to establish and manage enterprise. But now, what

is the need is to create awareness among the rural women who are job seekers

about the employment market situation, to motivate them to take-up self-

employment ventures, to assist them in obtaining necessary inputs required for

setting of self-employment ventures from different sources and to provide

necessary follow-up assistance to the self-employed women for sustaining

them in their market.

Mohammad Badruzzaman Bhuiyan and Rubab Abdullah (2007)

concluded in their study that in order to encourage women entrepreneurship, all

banks and financial institutions should be asked to provide one fifth of their

investment for women-owned enterprises and special training course for

women entrepreneurs to improve skills. Nitin Huria (2013) in his research

paper has felt that women entrepreneurship has a bright future and the women

entrepreneurs must have to take up the challenges of the new economic policy.

A nation or region can only be developed if its women are given ample

opportunities. Developing entrepreneurship among women will be the right

approach for empowerment of women.

Manisha Raj (2014) studied that despite significant problems in a male

dominated society, Indian women have found their way out for growth and

empowerment either through self-help groups, NGOs, banks, government

assistance and micro finance institutions or through private sectors. It was also

observed that in the coming years the role of women will be of immense

importance for competing with the developed world as they are main power

source as well as diverse consumer group.

Prasanna Kumar (2014) stated that our need is to ascertain and assure

the areas where women are still far from enjoying the minimum privileges and

question of empowerment has been thrown to a very complex, integrated

situation the access to resources, institution, decision making process and

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information etc., are the pertinent question in making the women empowered,

confident, and accorded to the main stream social processes.

Mamata Bannur and Renuka Teli (2012) in their research study stated

that the major factors which contributed for establishment and development of

an enterprise are availability of specified skill to work on specific project

(89%), self-confidence (78%), cooperation from husband/family at the time of

start (63%), availability of loan (60%), favorable attitude of customers (40%)

and adequate training (60%). Sathiabama (2010), in her study highlighted the

empowerment of rural women through entrepreneurship and the advantages of

entrepreneurship among the rural women.

2.2 SOFT FURNISHINGS

Fabrics are integral part of every part of room in the home. They

contribute so much to the general atmosphere that they should be chosen

carefully and aesthetically. Every note of texture and color, from the functional

dish towel hanging informally in the kitchen to the most elegant draperies in a

formal living rooms, adds to the taste and culture of the family living in that

home. The basic requirements for the various fabrics that are selected will

differ, because each one will used under a different set of conditions.

Therefore, it is important to know how a fabric will be used in order to select

one that has the most desirable and appropriate properties.

One important factor that influences the selection of furnishing fabrics is

their width. Widths of these fabrics vary considerably in different kinds of

materials. In general, decorative fabrics tend to be wider than the dress

materials. It is therefore, important to know the exact width of a fabric when

finalizing the required length of fabrics for anything one plan to make.

(Seetharam.P, (2005)

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In the modern, era soft furnishings play a crucial role in interior

decoration. This term originated with increasing use of the soft materials in

various rooms that adds beauty to the room and add comfort to the normal life.

(softfurnishings.webnode.com)

(http://EzineArticles.com/expexl/ownsJones/270)

2.3 HOME LINENS

Linens are fabric household goods intended for daily use, such

as bedding, tablecloths and towels. "Linens" may also refer to church linens,

meaning the altar cloths used in church. An apron is an outer protective

garment that covers primarily the front of the body. It may be worn for

hygienic reasons as well as in order to protect clothes from wear and tear, or

else due to a symbolic meaning. The apron is commonly part of the uniform of

several work categories, including waitresses, nurses, and domestic workers.

Many homemakers also wear them. It is also worn as a decorative garment by

women. Aprons are also worn in many commercial establishments to protect

workers clothes from damage, mainly bib aprons, but also others such

as blacksmith or farrier aprons.

In addition to cloth, aprons can be made from a variety of materials.

Rubber aprons are commonly used by persons working with dangerous

chemicals, and lead aprons are commonly worn by persons such as X-ray

technicians who work near radiation. Aprons, such as those used by carpenters,

may have many pockets to hold tools. Waterproof household aprons, made

of oilcloth or PVC are suitable for cooking and washing dishes.

A bed sheet is a rectangular piece of cloth used as bedding, being

placed immediately below or above bed occupants. Bed sheets can generally be

divided into two categories: "top" and "bottom" sheets. A bottom sheet is laid

above the mattress and bed occupants lie on it. It may be either a flat sheet

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(extra fabric is usually tucked under the mattress), or a fitted sheet, which is

sewn in a pocket-like shape to go down over the corners of the mattress, and

has an elastic band around the edges of the sheet to prevent the sheet from

slipping. Bottom sheets are standard in developed countries. They are more

easily washable than a mattress, and when used properly can protect the

longevity of the mattress and provide better sanitation for bed occupants.

A top sheet is a flat sheet immediately under which bed occupants

lie. Blankets, quilts, duvets/comforters and other bed covers are laid over the

top sheet, but because of the top sheet they do not directly touch the bed

occupant. Sheets are standard in the U.S., but much of Europe prefers to use

duvet covers. A duvet cover consists of two rectangles sewn together on all but

one side to create a sleeve for the duvet, which can be taken off and washed.

When no other blankets are lain atop the covered duvet, it can provide several

advantages over a top sheet. First, respecting sanitation, with a top sheet the

bed occupant could accidentally in the night remove the barrier between

himself and the duvet (which is less washable); with a duvet cover this is

impossible. Second, for households with children, a bed with a covered duvet is

easier to make: the child need only tug the corners of the duvet back towards

the corners of the bed. Tucking in a top sheet before arranging the duvet is an

extra step. Third, switching a duvet cover is a cheaper way to change color

schemes than buying a new comforter.

A bed skirt or valance is a piece of decorative fabric that is placed

between the mattress and the box spring of a bed. The purpose of a bed skirt is

to give a stylish appearance to a bed without exposing the sides of the box

spring or any space under the bed that may be used for storage. Historically,

bed skirts were used to block drafts, which could chill the undersides of beds,

and to prevent dust from accumulating under the bed.

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Bedding, also known as bedclothes, is the materials laid above

the mattress of a bed for hygiene, warmth, protection of the mattress, and

decorative effect. Bedding is the removable and washable portion of a human

sleeping environment. Multiple sets of bedding for each bed will often be

washed in rotation and/or changed seasonally to improve sleep comfort at

varying room temperatures. In American English, the word bedding generally

does not include the mattress, bed frame, or bed base (such as box-

spring),[2] while in British English it does.[3] In Australian English, bedding is

often called manchester.

A set of bedding usually consists of a flat or fitted bed sheet that covers

the mattress; a flat top sheet; either a blanket, quilt, or duvet, sometimes with a

duvet cover which can replace or be used in addition to the top sheet; and a

number of pillows with pillowcases, also referred to as pillow shams.

(See #Terminology for more info on all these terms.) Additional blankets, etc.

may be added to ensure the necessary insulation in cold sleeping areas.

A common practice for children and some adults is to decorate a bed with plush

stuffed animals, dolls, and other soft toys. These are not included under the

designation of bedding, although they may provide additional warmth to the

sleeper.

A curtain (sometimes known as a drape, mainly in the United States) is

a piece of cloth intended to block or obscure light, or drafts, or water in the

case of a shower curtain.[1] A curtain is also the movable screen or drape in a

theater that separates the stage from the auditorium or that serves as a

backdrop.

Curtains hung over a doorway are known as portières.[2] Curtains are

often hung on the inside of a building's windows to block the passage of light,

for instance at night to aid sleeping, or to stop light from escaping outside the

building (stopping people outside from being able to see inside, often for

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privacy reasons). In this application, they are also known as "draperies".

Curtains come in a variety of shapes, materials, sizes, colors and patterns, and

they often have their own sections within department stores, while

some shops are completely dedicated to selling curtains.

A dishcloth is used in the kitchen to clean dishes and other surfaces.

Typically they are made of cotton or other cloth, such as microfiber, and

measure 11" to 13" inches square. Dishcloths are often left damp and provide a

breeding ground for bacteria.

Since the kitchen sink is used to clean food, dishcloths are routinely

infected with E. coli and salmonella. In 2007 a study from the Journal of

Environmental Health found that putting a damp dishcloth (or sponge) in

the microwave for 2 minutes killed 99% of living pathogens. However, fire

departments have subsequently warned people not to do this as it can be a fire

hazard, especially if the dishcloth or sponge is not sufficiently wet. Several

small fires have been started as a result of people following the advice from the

study.

A towel is a piece of absorbent fabric or paper used for drying or wiping

a body or a surface. It draws moisture through direct contact, often using a

blotting or a rubbing motion. In households, several types of fabric towels are

used, including hand towels (small towels placed by a sink for drying the

hands), bath towels (large towels for drying the hair and body after a bath or

shower) and kitchen towels, which are used for drying dishes. In warm

climates, people may also use beach towels, which are large towels used for

drying off after swimming and for placing on beach surfaces. Common

household textile towels are made from cotton, rayon, bamboo, non-

woven fibers, and a few other materials. Paper towels are provided in

commercial or office bathrooms for users to dry their hands. Paper towels are

also used in households for a range of wiping, cleaning and drying tasks.

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A handkerchief also called a handkercher or hanky, is a form of

a kerchief, typically a hemmed square of thin fabric that can be carried in

the pocket or purse, and which is intended for personal hygiene purposes such

as wiping one's hands or face, or blowing one's nose. A handkerchief is also

sometimes used as a purely decorative accessory in a suit pocket.

A napkin, serviette or face towelette is a rectangle of cloth used at the

table for wiping the mouth and fingers while eating. It is usually small and

folded, sometimes in intricate designs and shapes. The word comes

from Middle English, borrowing the French nappe -a cloth covering for a table-

and adding -kin, the diminutive suffix.

An oven glove, or oven mitt, is an insulated glove or mitten usually

worn in the kitchen to easily protect the wearer's hand from hot objects such as

ovens, stoves, cookware, etc. Fabric gloves consist of heat

insulation surrounded by cotton fabric, usually consisting of decorative

patterns. Newer oven gloves are often treated with silicone, which makes them

resistant to water and stains, or made of stronger synthetic materials such

as Kevlar or Nomex. Oven mitts are often sold singly rather than in a pair,

designed to be worn on either hand. Oven gloves should only be used when dry

and only for short periods at a time. The gloves should not come into contact

with heating elements, gas flames or similar sources of high temperature.

Fabric gloves will not protect against hot liquids.

Furnace gloves, or furnace mitts, are more heavily insulated, longer,

and can protect the user from intense heat for longer periods of time.

A placemat or table mat is a covering or pad designating an individual

place setting, unlike the larger table cloth that covers the entire surface.

Placemats are made from many different materials depending on their purpose:

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to protect, decorate, entertain or advertise. Materials and production methods

range from mass-produced and commercial, to local and traditional.

Their primary function is to protect the dinner table from water marks,

food stains or heat damage. They also serve as decoration, especially placemats

made from lace or silk. In restaurants they can be used to advertise menu items,

specials, local businesses or games for children.

Higher end placemats, made from vinyl or leather, are used

by hotels and organizations for meetings as they provide a writing surface, and

give an area on which to lean comfortably and to place objects on the table

with minimal noise during meetings.

A pillow is used to sleep on and support the head/neck or other parts of

the body while sleeping, lying down or sitting. In addition, pillows have

decorative uses and are used on beds, couches or chairs; these are also referred

to as cushions.

In contemporary western culture pillows consist of a plain or patterned

fabric envelope (pillowcase) which contains a soft stuffing, which may range

from down feathers to synthetic foam. In other cultures, pillows have been

made of wood or stone. Bed pillows are typically covered with a cloth

pillowcase. Pillows used in a living room typically have a sturdy cloth cover.

2.4 CUSHION FABRICS

The selection of fabric for cushions will depend upon their end use.

Durable fabrics are required for floor cushions and loose covers; lace and

delicate fabrics should be used only for purely decorative cushions; Whilst

general finishing fabrics are deal for all types of scatter cushions. For the

dining and kitchen areas use easy care fabrics that can be thrown into washing

machine time and time again .Fabrics that are in constant use, such as in the

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family room, can be treated with one of the stain –repellent sprays, such as

scotch guard or Teflon after each wash .The strength of the fabric should also

be considered. Heavy cottons and tightly woven fabrics are ideal for floor

cushions and loose seating covers. Soft furnishing fabrics are ideal for cushions

because they are wide and therefore more economical. Natural fabrics, such as

cotton, linens, and manmade fabrics such as polyester, acrylic and acetate have

beneficial properties. Natural fabrics are easy to clean but can shrink and

become distorted; man made fabrics are more likely to attract dirt but are less

likely to lose their shape when cleaned .A fabric such as a poly cotton, which a

combination of polyester and, possesses qualities from both groups, being easy

to clean and less likely to lose its shape. The fabrics suitable for stitching

cushion covers are given below.

Cotton and linen

These fabrics are known as plant fabrics as they made from the cotton

and plant respectively. These fabrics come in pure or blended form and are soft

to touch and breathable, making them an excellent fabric for throw cushions.

Linen is two to three times stronger than cotton and is a good conductor of

heat. It is cool to touch and is therefore considered an excellent choice for

summer time.

Silk is regarded as one of the most luxurious forms of fabric and it is often

considered as sign of status. Silk throw cushions can make a stunning addition

to the living room or bedroom but like anything in like, too much is never a

good thing.

Leather

Leather is similar to silk in many ways. It is the product of an animal, it

can added a wonderful texture to any room, it is expensive and is difficult to

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clean. Leather throw cushions are slightly odd concept as it not the most

comfortable fabric to cuddle upto. It is also not great in hot weather.

Synthetic fabric

Synthetic fabric such as nylon and polyester are made through a process of

polymerization. This is an entirely chemical process and as such, the fabric is

entirely manmade. Synthetic fabrics can be made to be water resistant, stain

resistant, non flammable, free etc.

Cotton canvas and duck canvas

Cotton canvas and duck canvas fabric are a superb choice for outdoor

throw cushions. They are plain woven fabrics and the difference between the

two is that duck canvas is more tightly woven and smoother than cotton canvas.

There fabrics are an excellent choice for outdoor furniture as they are much

more durable and hard wearing than cotton or linen.

(https://www.simplycushions.com)

Mixing and matching fabrics

Using a number of complementary patterns and color help to connect

areas in rooms and give continuity on the home. Geometric prints, strips,

patterns and solids can together to give a room style and interest. Fabric

manufactures make it easy to coordinate fabrics by designing groups of

complementary patterns, prints and solids which can be of any combination. If

coordinate them side –by –side in natural light. Examine under the fabric from

several angles to judge the compatibility of print and color. Consider where the

fabric will be used and how it relates to other fabric in the room.

Singer –sewing for your home (1993)

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2.5 TYPES OF CUSHIONS

(a) Boarded cushion

Cushions with additional borders or decorative embellishments work

easily together and blend well on a garden bench, piled into a squashy sofa or

displayed on a bed. These cushion covers can be made with an Oxford – style

opening (a tuck –in flap) or one can set a zip across the back of the cushion,

close to the stitched edge of the border.

(b) Bed pillows

Pillow used for head support while sleeping and pillow ‘shams’, the

cover for any extra pillows used for decoration or back support. Housewife

style describes the covers with a flap at the back that holds the pillow in place

once interested the edges can be plain, flat boarded, scalloped or frilled and the

pillowcase are made in the same way as envelope style scatter cushion.

(c) Boxed cushion

Boxed cushions are useful soft furnishings. They are suitable as chair

and sofa seats and backs, as loose cushions in occasional chair seats, or they

can be floor cushions, window seats and headrests. Any seat cushion that is to

provide long –term comfort needs depth, so the cover will need to be gusseted,

turning the cushion into a ‘box’. d) Knotted bloster cover. The bloster used as a

cushion to support the head at the top of the bed. This delightful knotted bloster

cover adds a casual, stylish touch to a bed head bloster. It employs a French

seam, which is often used for making pillowcases.

(d) Cushion and ties

Fabric ties are a very smart way of introducing bows or knots to

cushions. They can be used as covers. Fastenings or they can be purely

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decorative features. Short, wide ties can make good chunky knots at the corners

of the cushions and at cushions cover openings, while longer, narrower lengths

of fabric may be tied in floppy bows.

(e) Frill -edged cushion

Frill edges give cushions a softer, feminine look and work particularly

well in floral fabric and with bed room furnishings .made in the same fabric as

the cushion covers, frill can be piped bound with a contrasting color, a striped

or double frills can go with large and small prints or checks and stripes.

(f) Piped cushion

Piping the outer edge of a cushion can make it much more stylish and

interesting. Striped fabrics cut on the cross give a stitching finish, as do

checked fabric cut on the diagonal. On a single cushion the exact color and size

of a piped, defined edge can be crucial. Hamlyn,(2001)

(g) Embellished cushion

The embellished covers are heavily decorated cushion covers. It can

include trims around the edges, such as beading and fringes or dimensional

adornments attached to the front of the pillow, like embroidery, beading, tassels

or buttons.

(h) Flange cushion

A flange is fabric that extends out from the side seams, usually at least 2

inches or more. It softens the look of the pillow and also be done in a

contrasting fabric.

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(i) Sham

A pillow sham is a lovely decorative coverage for a pillow, often with a

deep flanged edge. Pillow shams are quick easy way to change out the look the

pillow.

(j) ‘No sew cushion’

There are ways of improvising and creating interesting soft furnishings,

such as cushion, with either no, or very little, sewing required. No sew

cushions can be made by simple knotting, by toggles and buttons or by laces

and ribbons.

(k) Flat border pillowcase

The cover can be made in the same way as the housewife pillow, just

adding extra fabric to foam the border. (softfurnishings.webnode.com)

(http://EzineArticles.com/expexl/ownsJones 270)

2.6 TRIMMING AND DECORATIONS

Trims enhance the garment appearance. Trims are generally decided by

the fashion trend. As they help in creating an effective look with very less

effort. Trims such as ribbons, braids, laces, and other narrow fabric trims are

widely used to adorn kids wear, night wear, lingerie etc. These help in creating

a soft look in the garment and without too much effort makes it look dressy.

A garment is not only made from the apparel fabric but also various accessory

items form part of it. These have to be chosen in such a manner, that they

compliment the garment both aesthetically, in terms of decoration, and

practically, in terms of ensuring that the garment performs as expected in its

intended end use. There are a large variety of trims available in the market.

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They can be broadly divided into two categories Functional trims and

Decorative trims.

The decorative trims are for embellishment only, like laces, ribbons,

braids etc. There are trims that one can buy in the market and there are trims

that can be made at home by an individual. The type of trim and the amount of

trim used would depend on current trends in fashion, cost of the garment and

individual taste. Although a trim generally enhances the garment appearance

but a trim that ravels, falls off, shrinks, fades, bleeds or discolors ruins the

entire outfit. Hence one has to be very careful in selecting and in purchasing

the trim.

The various types of trims available in the market have been described

in detail.

Laces: Lace is a narrow lace fabric (in contrast to the all over lace fabric from

which whole garments are constructed). Lace can be very expensive, depending

on its fibre content, intricacy and complexity, width and if it is gathered,

fullness. Some of the popular laces are: Insertion lace: a flat lace trim that has

two finished sides. It is inserted between two edges.

Gallon lace: a flat lace that has two scalloped edges Edge lace: Any lace with

one scalloped edge and one straight edge.

Ribbon pass lace: any lace trim through which a ribbon is threaded.

Medallion: any individual lace motif, for example an appliqué, collar or a cuff.

Embroidered Lace: a lace that has embroidered edge on it.

Braids: Intertwining a set of yarns according to definite pattern forms braids.

Braids are used on women’s wear and children wear and sometimes are also

used on uniforms as decorations. They are top stitched on the garment and are

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also used on accessories like Pea Caps. Broader braids are occasionally used as

belts. Some of the popular braids are:

Loop Braid: a braid that consists of many loops Scrolling: a wavy braid Gimp

Braid: a complex highly decorative braid made from a cord used to decorate a

high price jacket.

Rickrack: a zigzag shaped trim used chiefly on kids wear, it can be edge

stitched and also inserted. Broad rickrack is called Jumbo rickrack and narrow

one is baby rickrack.

Ribbons: Ribbon is a narrow, woven fabric used as a trim and to make ties and

bows. It is available in a variety of widths ranging from 1/8th of an inch to 6"

wide. Ribbons that feel papery and crease when folded is cheaper, inexpensive

and of low quality. They do not last long, so should be carefully chosen.

Ribbons can be top stitched, passed through a ribbon pass lace, or used as edge

finish inside knits, or even at hems. Types of Ribbons available are: Grosgrain

ribbon has a dull ribbed appearance. It can be used as a decoration or as facing

inside a button placket in a cardigan.

Satin Ribbon: is shiny and smooth and is made using satin weave. Velvet

Ribbon has a soft smooth, three-dimensional pile surface. Novelty ribbon is

made with unusual design and weaves. Fringes: Fringe is a trim that has

dangling yarns .It is usually attached as an edge finish and is commonly used

on duppattas, scarves and on upholstery. Shimmy fringe: A shinny fringe that

moves when the wearer moves. Kiran: A fringe made with metallic yarn widely

used in Indian bridal and trousseau wear. Tassel fringe: Groups of fringes tied

together into tassels at intervals.

Twill tapes: A twill weave tape used to trim casual garments and also to

reinforce seams in knits. Other common tapes are seam tape or hem tape,

which has a smooth ribbon like finish, used to finish inner seam and hems. Bias

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tape are bias cut fabric might be in contrasting colours used as decorative

binding both inside and outside the garment. 33 Appliqués: are decorative

patches applied to the garment. They are generally die cut from fusible fabrics

may be embroidered. They can be ironed on and then permanently stitched.

The following are non-fabric trims that are available in the market:

Beads: can be cylindrical called bugle or round called seed. These are

embroidered on to the formal wear as motifs or spread over as individual pieces

on the garment. Nowadays, rhinestones are also very popular on garments. In

past royal families used to wear clothes with real pearls and stones including

diamonds embroidered on their clothes but today only very high fashion and

very expensive garments have real pearls, most of the ornamentations used

today are in plastic or glass. Swaroski crystals are also becoming increasingly

popular in India they are not real diamonds but are quiet expensive; these can

be stitched or ironed on to the garments.

Sequins: can be shinny or in matt finish, can be flat or slightly three-

dimensional. These are also embroidered on to the garments. Studs and rivets:

are metallic may or may not be studded with stones, popularly used on jeans,

bags, belts, leather jackets, shoes etc. they are simply attached by fitting the

two pieces together with a stud gun, or can be nailed into the garment. A wide

variety of designs are available in the market.

Closures: are the fasteners that secure garment openings. Closures unfasten to

enlarge the garment and fasten to make the garment fit the body. There is a

wide variety of closures readily available in the market. Closures include

Buttons, Zippers, Snaps, Hooks and Eyes and other fasteners. To a certain

extent, tradition governs the use of particular fastener in a garment. For

example formal shirts for men will always have buttons, whereas technically

there is nothing wrong in using zippers for the same. Buttons: have widely been

used as garment closure from the middle Ages. Most buttons have dual

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functions in the garment of being functional closure and a decorative detail.

However, some buttons inside a concealed placket, or inside a double-breasted

garment are completely functional.

Buttons are made in several materials like plastic, wood, shell, nylon,

animal horn, leather, nuts, beads, glass, fabric and metal etc. The plastic

buttons are more popular than in natural materials as they are more uniform

than in natural material and are cheaper too. Plastic buttons often imitate the

one in natural material. Polyester Buttons are resistant to heat and dry-cleaning.

They are produced in large quantities for all kinds of clothing. Nylon Buttons

are made in large number of shapes and in a wide variety of colours. Metal

buttons are made in brass, nickel and aluminum with an engraved or stamped

face. Used for blazers, jeans and jackets etc. Leather or leather like buttons are

sensitive to moisture and abrasion. Used mostly in apparel made of leather and

sports jackets.

Wood button are made from variety of wood, are lightweight and

sensitive to heat. Traditionally used in Gujarat and Rajasthan for Indian wear

are also used in knitted jackets. Mother of pearl or shells buttons are made from

mussel shell, with their uneven and beautiful surface are very expensive

decorative buttons.

Button loops: are used in some garments instead of buttonhole to fasten the

garment. In these garments two sides of the placket do not overlap. These loops

can be made of tubes of bias fabric; strips of cording; braid, elastic or thread

chains. Sometimes buttons too are made of fabric or cord that has been

elaborately knotted. Zippers are fast easy means of getting in and out of

garments. They have been widely used in garments in the west since 1930’s but

have come to India at a much later date.

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Zippers close the garment completely, so they are preferred to buttons in

closer fitting garments. However, for decorative purpose the buttons are still

preferred over zippers being more decorative and that has a wider variety to

provide larger choice. Zippers are available as: Plastic zipper the teeth of the

zipper are made of plastic. Metallic zipper the teeth of the zipper are made of

metal. Invisible zipper cannot be seen after it is attached on the garment.

Hooks and Eyes: consist of two parts, a hook and an eye (which can be made

of thread/ can also be of metal). Hooks and eye offer the advantage of being

small and easy to conceal but can carry a heavy stress load. A hook and eye

closure is stronger than snap closure of similar type. Hooks and eyes should be

used in area of heavy strain.

Hook and loop tape: popularly known as Velcroa tape is a ready-made tape

that is in two parts that stick to each other on the same principle as the burr

from plants that stick to your clothing after a walk in the woods after rain. It is

based on the principle of hook and loop. The part that is hook is scratchy and

the loop is softer. The tape closes when pressed together and to open one has to

pull it apart.

Decorative top stitching- done on top of a seam to highlight, it is both

decorative and functional as apart from visual appeal it provides strength to the

seam. It can be done with same colour or in a contrasting colour in straight

stitches or in variety of stitches that may be offered as attachments by the

manufacturer of sewing machine. Edge stitching- same as decorative stitching.

Embroidery- can be done with hand or machine in variety of placements,

colours, threads and motifs that is primarily done for visual appeal.

Cut work- same as embroidery but has cut out pieces in the motifs: The above

list is only indicative and is basically there to make the sewing enthusiast start

taking the initiative and exploring. Skrabanich. S,(1993)

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2.7 BASIC STITCHES

To stitch a beautiful garment various steps have to be undertaken. After

taking measurements and cutting the cloth accordingly, we need to stitch the

various pieces together with the help of different types of stitches. Attaching

two or more pieces of cloth together with the help of a needle and thread, by

taking the threaded needle up and down through two pieces of cloth is what

forms a stitch. Care should be taken to thread only a requisite amount of thread

through the needle so that it does not tangle at the time of forming stitches.

Like any other profession, tailoring also has some basic rules and tenets

following which is an absolute must, and following are some of these rules: It

is necessary to have knowledge about basic stitches before proceeding to

construct a garment because:

a) To make cut pieces of fabric into a garment one has to attach them with

the help of stitches like basting.

b) There are various types of fabric available in the market today. To be able

to stitch all of them successfully, we need to hold them together

temporarily. For e.g. Nylon cloth, silks etc.

c) At times the basic stitches are used to give a neat finish to the garment

like hemming.

TEMPORARY STITCHES

Temporary stitches are those that are used to loosely attach two pieces

of cloth to ensure that pieces fit together, darts are appearing at the right points.

These stitches are opened out after stitching the garment. These also help to

keep pieces in places while being stitched. These are of various types, like:

Basting stitch: This is used to join two pieces of cloth together. This helps to

keep slippery material in a straight line together while stitching. Method:

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Basting is done using a single thread. After threading the needle with an

appropriate length of thread, the needle is taken in and out of the two pieces of

cloth at some distance, throughout the required length.

Even basting: All stitches are of equal length. This is achieved by taking an

equal quantity of thread for the upward as well as downward stitch, at equal

distances.

Uneven basting: All the stitches are at varying distance but of the same length,

i.e. the length of thread taken for upward and downward stitch is the same but

at different distance from each other.

Zigzag basting: When the cloth is slippery or a lining cloth is to be attached,

then this zigzag stitch is used to keep the two pieces together.

THREAD MARKS: This is a type of temporary stitch, which is removed after

the garment is stitched. This is used in situations where you cannot use a pencil

or chalk, to mark the cloth. Sewed in a very loose manner, one stitch is small,

and the next one larger, Used mainly on garments where many trials etc are

required before final fitting. It is usually made with a double thread, but is

always made on a double layered cloth. The stitches are adjoining to each

other. Made in a loose manner, the needle is taken out from a determined

distance and then again inserted in the same position and then the second stitch

taken with a certain looseness in the thread.

PERMANENT STITCHES

Hemming: Used on almost every garment. Can be replaced by a simple

running stitch also, but to enhance the beauty of a garment, hemming is used as

a most important stitch. This is almost invisible on the right side of the garment

and as very small stitches on the wrong side. Method: As single thread is put in

the needle and a very small margin of the cloth is taken or a single strand taken

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from the turned in surface. The needle is passed through the single strand and

through the surface of the cloth to give a neat edge and finishing touch. Used

on sleeves, neck, skirts etc.

Slip hem: Similar to simple hemming but the stitches are taken at a little

distant from each other. It’s usually used on slippery materials like silk, nylon

etc. Method: As the name signifies, this stitch is similar to hemming but in a

more lateral position. Used to finish cuffs, necklines etc.

Narrow hem: Stitches taken very close together. Usually to finish men’s

garments like shirts, coats etc. It is considered to be very strong. Method:

Stitches are put very close together using a single thread. The turned in part is

firmly stitched in place using this method of taking the needle in and out of the

turned in and rest of the garment.

Blind hem: As the name suggests this stitch is almost invisible to the naked

eye. It has to be done with great care to give a neat finish. It is used mainly in

men’s wear. Method: The turned in part is so closely stitched to the main body

of the garment so as to take only one strand of thread at a time giving it almost

an invisible feel.

Rolled hem: Used on fine materials. Edging of saris, edges of rills, puff sleeves

etc are finished using rolled hem. Method : Similar to simple hemming but

instead of taking a straight band of cloth as the trend in portion a small edge is

rolled between the thumb and forefinger and the stitch is put on the inside

surface.

Circular hem: a type of hem only, but used on bias cut cloth. When one needs

to turn a straight edge on a bias cloth, it is difficult to do so, that is when this

stitch comes in handy. Used on umbrella cut frocks etc. when the edge of the

garment is always cut on bias. Method: Bias cut cloth is once turned inside

used. The amount of cloth to be turned is turned and a temporary stitch is put in

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loosely. The thread is then pulled a little to give small gathers. The gathers are

then spread out and then hemmed into place.

Fine running stitch: One can see only fine dots of this stitch from the right

side of the garment. Used mainly for finishing fine garments like sari edges.

Method: The needle is Padding stitch: taken out from a predetermined

distance. The place from where the needle comes out, then determines the point

from where a single strand of thread is picked up for the next stitch. The shape

of the garment has to be kept in mind while unraveling this stitch. It is used

mainly in coats. Method: Put at an angle this stitch resembles a temporary

stitch. The first line is taken at a certain angle and in the next line the angle is

in the opposite direction. The stitch seems like it is standing up.

Back stitch: Used to attach two pieces of cloth together, by using a handmade

stitch. It has been used since the time when the machine was not yet in

invented. This is believed to have greater flexibility and is very strong. This

stitch can also be used easily on a bias cloth. Most important use is on churidar

pajamas, the stitch is different from its right and wrong side. Method: A crease

is created on the edge of the two pieces of cloth that need to be joined together.

A small margin is taken on top and bottom and small stitches taken close

together.

Button hole: Of utmost importance in the tailoring trade, as it is used on

almost all types of garments – ladies, men’s and children. There is a need to

keep an opening somewhere on the garment for ease of wearing and taking off.

Most of such openings are closed with the help of buttonhole stitches. The

button hole is always made on the top portion. The buttonhole stitch is used to

finish the button hole. It is made on two or more layers of cloth. The button

hole has a slight curve on one side known as the fan and an edge on the other

known as the bar. Method: First choose the distance between each button hole.

Then keeping the diameter of the button in mind, use the tip of a scissor to cut

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holes in the cloth. To ensure that no, loose strands come out finish the edge

with a temporary stitch. Always cut the button hole in the direction of the grain

line. Then using a single thread finish the edge with a buttonhole stitch keeping

a little extra tension on the ‘fan’ side to make a kind of chain stitch is then

pressed down once the buttonhole is finished.

Hook eye: An opening can be closed with other methods apart from a button

and buttonhole. One of these is the hook and eye. There are hooks of different

sizes available to suit different purposes and garments like trousers or blouses.

The hook is usually fixed half a point behind the edge of the belt. This is fixed

using the buttonhole stitch. It is fixed from two edges below and one point

above like a bow. The simple hooks are best used with an eye made from

thread by hand, using a button hole stitch.

Press buttons: These are metal buttons with one part having a hole and the

other a nail to fit into the hole. The nail part is always put on the top and the

one with the depression on the bottom. This is also affixed using the button

hole stitch.

Buttons: The various types of buttons available in the market differ in that they

have different number of holes – 2 or 4. The method for fixing them remains

the same. The spot where the button needs to be fixed is determined and then

the needle is taken out first from one and then the other to properly fix the

button. There should be a little looseness in the stitch so that the button can be

easily passed through the button hole.

Laces: Lace is a narrow lace fabric (in contrast to the all over lace fabric from

which whole garments are constructed). Lace can be very expensive, depending

on its fibre content, intricacy and complexity, width and if it is gathered,

fullness. Some of the popular laces are: Insertion lace: a flat lace trim that has

two finished sides. It is inserted between two edges.

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Gallon lace: a flat lace that has two scalloped edges Edge lace: Any lace with

one scalloped edge and one straight edge.

Ribbon pass lace: any lace trim through which a ribbon is threaded.

Medallion: any individual lace motif, for example an appliqué, collar or a cuff.

Embroidered Lace: a lace that has embroidered edge on it.

Braids: Intertwining a set of yarns according to definite pattern forms braids.

Braids are used on women’s wear and children wear and sometimes are also

used on uniforms as decorations. They are top stitched on the garment and are

also used on accessories like Pea Caps. Broader braids are occasionally used as

belts. Some of the popular braids are:

Loop Braid: a braid that consists of many loops Scrolling: a wavy braid Gimp

Braid: a complex highly decorative braid made from a cord used to decorate a

high price jacket.

Rickrack: a zigzag shaped trim used chiefly on kids wear, it can be edge

stitched and also inserted. Broad rickrack is called Jumbo rickrack and narrow

one is baby rickrack.

Ribbons: Ribbon is a narrow, woven fabric used as a trim and to make ties and

bows. It is available in a variety of widths ranging from 1/8th of an inch to 6"

wide. Ribbons that feel papery and crease when folded is cheaper, inexpensive

and of low quality. They do not last long, so should be carefully chosen.

Ribbons can be top stitched, passed through a ribbon pass lace, or used as edge

finish inside knits, or even at hems. Types of Ribbons available are: Grosgrain

ribbon has a dull ribbed appearance. It can be used as a decoration or as facing

inside a button placket in a cardigan.

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Satin Ribbon: is shiny and smooth and is made using satin weave. Velvet

Ribbon has a soft smooth, three-dimensional pile surface. Novelty ribbon is

made with unusual design and weaves. Fringes: Fringe is a trim that has

dangling yarns .It is usually attached as an edge finish and is commonly used

on duppattas, scarves and on upholstery. Shimmy fringe: A shinny fringe that

moves when the wearer moves. Kiran: A fringe made with metallic yarn widely

used in Indian bridal and trousseau wear. Tassel fringe: Groups of fringes tied

together into tassels at intervals.

Twill tapes: A twill weave tape used to trim casual garments and also to

reinforce seams in knits. Other common tapes are seam tape or hem tape,

which has a smooth ribbon like finish, used to finish inner seam and hems. Bias

tape are bias cut fabric might be in contrasting colours used as decorative

binding both inside and outside the garment. 33 Appliqués: are decorative

patches applied to the garment. They are generally die cut from fusible fabrics

may be embroidered. They can be ironed on and then permanently stitched.

The following are non-fabric trims that are available in the market:

Beads: can be cylindrical called bugle or round called seed. These are

embroidered on to the formal wear as motifs or spread over as individual pieces

on the garment. Nowadays, rhinestones are also very popular on garments. In

past royal families used to wear clothes with real pearls and stones including

diamonds embroidered on their clothes but today only very high fashion and

very expensive garments have real pearls, most of the ornamentations used

today are in plastic or glass. Swaroski crystals are also becoming increasingly

popular in India they are not real diamonds but are quiet expensive; these can

be stitched or ironed on to the garments.

Sequins: can be shinny or in matt finish, can be flat or slightly three-

dimensional. These are also embroidered on to the garments. Studs and rivets:

are metallic may or may not be studded with stones, popularly used on jeans,

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bags, belts, leather jackets, shoes etc. they are simply attached by fitting the

two pieces together with a stud gun, or can be nailed into the garment. A wide

variety of designs are available in the market.

Closures: are the fasteners that secure garment openings. Closures unfasten to

enlarge the garment and fasten to make the garment fit the body. There is a

wide variety of closures readily available in the market. Closures include

Buttons, Zippers, Snaps, Hooks and Eyes and other fasteners. To a certain

extent, tradition governs the use of particular fastener in a garment. For

example formal shirts for men will always have buttons, whereas technically

there is nothing wrong in using zippers for the same. Buttons: have widely been

used as garment closure from the middle Ages. Most buttons have dual

functions in the garment of being functional closure and a decorative detail.

However, some buttons inside a concealed placket, or inside a double-breasted

garment are completely functional.

Buttons are made in several materials like plastic, wood, shell, nylon,

animal horn, leather, nuts, beads, glass, fabric and metal etc. The plastic

buttons are more popular than in natural materials as they are more uniform

than in natural material and are cheaper too. Plastic buttons often imitate the

one in natural material. Polyester Buttons are resistant to heat and dry-cleaning.

They are produced in large quantities for all kinds of clothing. Nylon Buttons

are made in large number of shapes and in a wide variety of colours. Metal

buttons are made in brass, nickel and aluminum with an engraved or stamped

face. Used for blazers, jeans and jackets etc. Leather or leather like buttons are

sensitive to moisture and abrasion. Used mostly in apparel made of leather and

sports jackets.

Wood button are made from variety of wood, are lightweight and

sensitive to heat. Traditionally used in Gujarat and Rajasthan for Indian wear

are also used in knitted jackets. Mother of pearl or shells buttons are made from

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mussel shell, with their uneven and beautiful surface are very expensive

decorative buttons.

Button loops: are used in some garments instead of buttonhole to fasten the

garment. In these garments two sides of the placket do not overlap. These loops

can be made of tubes of bias fabric; strips of cording; braid, elastic or thread

chains. Sometimes buttons too are made of fabric or cord that has been

elaborately knotted. Zippers are fast easy means of getting in and out of

garments. They have been widely used in garments in the west since 1930’s but

have come to India at a much later date.

Zippers close the garment completely, so they are preferred to buttons in

closer fitting garments. However, for decorative purpose the buttons are still

preferred over zippers being more decorative and that has a wider variety to

provide larger choice. Zippers are available as: Plastic zipper the teeth of the

zipper are made of plastic. Metallic zipper the teeth of the zipper are made of

metal. Invisible zipper cannot be seen after it is attached on the garment.

Hooks and Eyes: consist of two parts, a hook and an eye (which can be made

of thread/ can also be of metal). Hooks and eye offer the advantage of being

small and easy to conceal but can carry a heavy stress load. A hook and eye

closure is stronger than snap closure of similar type. Hooks and eyes should be

used in area of heavy strain.

Hook and loop tape: popularly known as Velcroa tape is a ready-made tape

that is in two parts that stick to each other on the same principle as the burr

from plants that stick to your clothing after a walk in the woods after rain. It is

based on the principle of hook and loop. The part that is hook is scratchy and

the loop is softer. The tape closes when pressed together and to open one has to

pull it apart.

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Decorative top stitching- done on top of a seam to highlight, it is both

decorative and functional as apart from visual appeal it provides strength to the

seam. It can be done with same colour or in a contrasting colour in straight

stitches or in variety of stitches that may be offered as attachments by the

manufacturer of sewing machine. Edge stitching- same as decorative stitching.

Embroidery- can be done with hand or machine in variety of placements,

colours, threads and motifs that is primarily done for visual appeal.

Cut work- same as embroidery but has cut out pieces in the motifs: The above

list is only indicative and is basically there to make the sewing enthusiast start

taking the initiative and exploring.

2.8 PRINTING AND DYEING

Woodblock printing on textiles is the process of printing patterns on

textiles, usually of linen, cotton or silk, by means of incised wooden blocks. It

is the earliest, simplest and slowest of all methods of textile printing. Block

printing by hand is a slow process.

Hand block printing is a centuries old Indian art form that utilizes

a hand carved teak wood block that is dipped in dye and stamped by

hand onto cotton or silk.

The design for the block is usually a traditional Indian motif. The motif

is traced onto a block by a master craftsman who then chips away at the

block to create a stamp.

The printing process begins by pre-washing the fabrics in the river in

order to reduce water consumption. The fabric is then dyed, laid flat on a

table and fixed firmly to the table with pins. Four to five basic natural colors

are used that are then mixed together to form a multitude of colors. The block

is then dipped in the dye and stamped firmly by hand onto the fabric. Finally,

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the fabric is rinsed in the river and hung to dry in the sun, minimizing energy

consumption.

Good printing requires skill and practice in order to create

uniformity and clear block printing patterns. Small variations in the printing

add to the unique charm of these handmade fabrics.

https://passionlilie.com/pages/hand-block-printed-fabrics

Screen printing is a printing technique whereby a mesh is used to

transfer ink onto a substrate, except in areas made impermeable to the ink by a

blocking stencil. A blade or squeegee is moved across the screen to fill the

open mesh apertures with ink, and a reverse stroke then causes the screen to

touch the substrate momentarily along a line of contact. This causes the ink to

wet the substrate and be pulled out of the mesh apertures as the screen springs

back after the blade has passed.

Screen printing is also a stencil method of print making in which a

design is imposed on a screen of polyester or other fine mesh, with blank areas

coated with an impermeable substance. Ink is forced into the mesh openings by

the fill blade or squeegee and by wetting the substrate, transferred onto the

printing surface during the squeegee stroke. As the screen rebounds away from

the substrate the ink remains on the substrate. It is also known as silk-

screen, screen, serigraphy, and serigraph printing. One color is printed at a

time, so several screens can be used to produce a multi coloured image or

design.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tie-dye

Batik is a technique of wax-resist dyeing applied to whole cloth, or cloth made

using this technique. Batik is made either by drawing dots and lines of the

resist with a spouted tool called a canting or by printing the resist with a copper

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stamp called a cap. The applied wax resists dyes and therefore allows the

artisan to colour selectively by soaking the cloth in one colour, removing the

wax with boiling water, and repeating if multiple colours are desired.

Batik is both an art and a craft, which is becoming more popular and

well known in the West as a wonderfully creative medium. The art of

decorating cloth in this way, using wax and dye, has been practiced for

centuries. In Java, Indonesia, batik is part of an ancient tradition, and some of

the finest batik cloth in the world is still made there. The word batik originates

from the Javanese tik and means to dot.

To make batik, selected areas of the cloth are blocked out by brushing or

drawing hot wax over them, and the cloth is then dyed. The parts covered in

wax resist the dye and remain the original colour. This process of waxing and

dyeing can be repeated to create more elaborate and colourful designs. After

the final dyeing the wax is removed and the cloth is ready for wearing or

showing.

Contemporary batik, while owing much to the past, is markedly

different from the more traditional and formal styles. For example, the artist

may use etching, discharge dyeing, stencils, different tools for waxing and

dyeing, wax recipes with different resist values and work with silk, cotton,

wool, leather, paper or even wood and ceramics.

Batik is historically the most expressive and subtle of the resist methods.

The ever widening range of techniques available offers the artist the

opportunity to explore a unique process in a flexible and exciting way.

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2.9 EMBROIDERIES

The Back Stitch is a basic embroidery and sewing stitch used to produce

a thin line of stitching, to outline shapes that will be filled with satin stitch, or to

stitch fabric pieces together.

Blanket Stitch

The Blanket Stitch is a basic stitch that can be used to create an edging,

used as a surface embroidery stitch, or to applique elements in place on an

embroidery project. It is worked using open half-loops of stitching, similar to a

hand-worked buttonhole stitch.

Bosnian Stitch: The Bosnian stitch can be used in a surface embroidery,

freestyle or counted thread embroidery project where a zigzag line is needed.

There are several different ways the stitch can be worked, and two variations are

given here in this article.

Buttonhole Stitch - Crossed

The Crossed Buttonhole Stitch is a variation of the standard buttonhole

stitch, a common surface embroidery or edging stitch. It gets its name from the

cross stitch-like pattern created when working the stitch and is a beautiful accent

to a cross stitch or embroidery project.

The crossed buttonhole stitch, like the blanket stitch, is a versatile stitch

that can be worked freehand on the surface or counted, to ensure accurate

spacing. Work the design along a hemmed edge, to outline a shape or.

The Cable Stitch can be worked along a straight or curved line on plain

weave or even weave fabric, and can be grouped into rows as a filling stitch.

https://in.pinterest.com/explore/basic-embroidery-stitches

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Chain Stitch and Chain Stitch Filling

Learn to work the basic Chain Stitch, the chain stitch as a filling, as well

as the proper way to change thread when working this easy stitch. Chain Stitch

-Cable.

The Cable Chain features rows of linked chain stitches worked in a

straight or zigzag pattern. The linked chains can be used as outlines or borders.

Chain Stitch - Detached Single

Learn to work a single, Detached Chain Stitch. This stitch forms the

basis of stitches like the lazy daisy.

Chain Stitch - Filling

Chain Stitch Filling is worked in multiple, concentric rows until an item

is completely filled.

Chain Stitch - Lazy Daisy

The Lazy Daisy is not a stitch per se, but is instead a group of single,

detached chain stitches arranged in the shape of a flower. Learn to work a basic

lazy daisy stitch.

The Feathered Chain Stitch is a decorative hand embroidery stitch that

utilizes detached chain stitches arranged in a zig-zag pattern as if working

the feather stitch, forming a hybridized stitch.

This highly textured surface embroidery stitch is wider than a standard

chain stitch, making it perfect for use in wide bands and rows.

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Chain Stitch - Square

The Square Chain Stitch is a chunky, open version of a standard chain

stitch. This stitch can be used alone as an interesting border or outline stitch, or

pass ribbon or other trims under the stitch for a multi-layered effect.

https://in.pinterest.com/explore/basic-embroidery-stitches

Chain Stitch - Twisted

The Twisted Chain Stitch is worked similarly to a standard row of chain

stitch, with the exception of the second insertion point of the needle being

outside the previous stitch. When used singly, a stitch resembles a small fish.

Add a French knot eye and you have an easy element to use in a beach-themed

project.

Chevron Stitch

The Chevron Stitch is a surface embroidery stitch worked using long

diagonal stitches topped with a horizontal cap stitch. This stitch can be used in

straight rows and bands. It can also be stitches along a curved edge if guidelines

are carefully marked on the fabric.

Chevron Stitch - Double

The Double Chevron Stitch can be used in bands and borders and may

be worked in a single color or two colors. It is worked similarly to standard

chevron stitch but in two passes. The first pass is worked as a standard chevron

stitch, while the second pass weaves through the first.

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Colonial Knot

The Colonial Knot is a larger, sturdier knot used in surface embroidery,

especially candlewick embroidery using heavy threads on sturdy cotton or linen

fabrics.

Cretan Stitch - Open

The Open Cretan Stitch is similar to feather stitch, as it uses

interlocking curved stitches, but is made using stitches that are vertical along the

top and bottom edges, rather than curved.

It can be used to outline shapes, as a border, or to join two pieces of

material together using a decorative, open lacy stitch.

Cross Stitch

Cross Stitch is commonly worked on Aida fabric by stitching one stitch

over each square in the fabric, or counted by working over two threads when

using an even weave fabric.

However, cross stitch can also be used as a surface embroidery stitch

when working with pre-stamped items, hot iron or other embroidery transfers.

Cross Stitch - Chinese

Unlike standard cross stitch, which is worked diagonally, Chinese Cross

Stitch is worked using a single horizontal and two vertical straight stitches

(groups of three). It makes a pretty border or edging on a project, and can be

worked in a single row, or multiple rows.

The stitching area can be pre-marked on the fabric, worked freestyle, or

worked as a counted stitch.

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The Long-Armed Cross Stitch, sometimes referred to as an elongated

cross stitch, can be used in bands and rows, or two outline or frame a section of

a design in counted thread embroidery projects. The stitch is worked nearly

identically to a standard cross stitch, with the exception that the second leg of

the stitch is elongated. When worked in rows, the stitches cross each other and

resemble a braid.

Cross Stitch - Upright

The Upright Cross Stitch can be used as a scattered or engineered

filling stitch, or in bands and borders. It is worked similarly to standard cross

stitch, with the exception of the stitches being worked vertically and

horizontally, rather than diagonally.

Upright cross stitch can be worked as a counted stitch on linen or

Aida embroidery fabric, or pre-marked on a plain weave embroidery fabric.

The Ermine Stitch can be worked singly or in rows, or scattered as a

filling stitch. It's made from three stitches - a vertical stitch crossed by two

diagonal stitches - and is easy to work.

This stitch can be used as a counted stitch, or as a surface embroidery

stitch and can be worked freestyle or pre-marked on the fabric for perfect

placement. It gets its name due to its resemblance to the furry tail of an ermine.

Eyelet Stitch - Basic

The Basic Eyelet Stitch: also knows as a star stitch or Algerian eye, can

be worked singly, in rows, or clustered together as a filling. Learn to work a

basic 12-spoke eyelet with these directions.

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Eyelet Stitch - Algerian

The Algerian Eye stitch is work in the same manner as the basic eyelet,

but has just 8 spokes and is over a counted number of threads in the pattern. As

for other eyelet stitches, work the stitch from the outside edges to the center,

forming an indentation in the center to make a small hole or eye.

Feather Stitch

Feather Stitch is light and airy. These two versions of the stitch are

worked similarly; creating an open line of embroidery stitching that can be used

for borders, around shapes, or to attach appliqués.

Feather Stitch - Closed

Closed Feather Stitch forms a band with closed edges, rather than open,

lacy sides. This stitch can be used along straight lines, or along curved lines if

carefully spaced. It can also be used as a couching stitch and looks nice holding

ribbon in position on a fabric.

Feather Stitch - Double

In the Double Feather Stitch, stitches are worked in left and right

groups, forming a more intricate - and wider - band of stitching. Use this stitch

for bands and rows, or to add pizazz to a thick hemmed edge.

Feather Stitch - Single

The Single Feather Stitch has stitches aligned to one side.

Feather Stitch - Straight Variations

The same stitch used in the Single Feather stitch can be used to create

variations of the same stitch, as in this Straight Feather variation.

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Fern Stitch

The Fern Stitch is a surface embroidery stitch used to create an open,

lacy stitch along a straight or curved line. It's beautiful worked as tree branches,

ferns, or seaweed in a project.

Each section of the fern stitch is worked as a group of three straight

stitches, all worked into the same ending hole. The groups are stitched

repeatedly to make a row.

Fly Stitch

The Fly Stitch is a surface embroidery stitch that can be worked singly,

as a scattered or engineered filling, and in rows.

Four-Sided Stitch

The Four-Sided Stitch is one of the common stitches used in counted

embroidery including drawn thread or pulled thread embroidery, and forms a

row of squares along the length of the fabric on the right side, and a row of

crosses on the back side.

Technically, only the first stitch is truly four-sided, with the adjoining

stitches made from three additional stitches attached to the side wall of the

previous stitch.

This stitch can be used in borders and rows, to accent a hem, or to frame

an element.

French Knot

The French Knot is easy to work after a small bit of practice. Here you

will learn to make a basic French knot and a variation with a tail.

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French Knot with a Tail

The French Knot with Tail stitch is worked similarly to a standard

French knot but has a tail. It works well used as a small flower, as a flower

center, or as stamens.

Herringbone Stitch

The Herringbone Stitch is worked along parallel lines on an even

weave fabric. These lines can be marked or you can count the threads in your

fabric to space the stitches. This stitch has many variations.

Herringbone Stitch - Double

The Double Herringbone Stitch is worked using two passes of the

single herringbone stitch and is most often worked in two colors.

Herringbone Stitch - Laced

This variation of the Laced Herringbone Stitch is worked in two passes

in two colors or weights of thread.

Herringbone Stitch - Tied

The Tied Herringbone Stitch is a variation of the standard herringbone

stitch and is worked in two passes with two colors or weights of thread.

Running Stitch

The Running Stitch is one of the most basic stitches and is usually the

first stitch learned by the beginner embroidery enthusiast or sewing student.

This stitch can be worked in straight or curved lines, or for assembly when

finishing an embroidery project.

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Running Stitch - Double

The Double Running Stitch is worked in two passes of running stitch,

with the second pass filling the gaps made in the first pass.

The Rice Stitch can be used as a scattered or engineered filling stitch, or

in bands and borders. It is worked similarly to standard cross stitch, with the

exception of small diagonal stitches worked over the ends of each arm of the

larger crossed stitch. Rice stitch can be worked as a counted stitch, or pre-

marked on the fabric.

Satin Stitch - Basic

Basic, flat Satin Stitch is an easy filling stitch that can be used to fill

smaller areas that are not to be raised, and has also been called the flat satin

stitch due to its lack of padding.

Other variations of the satin stitch include the long & short satin stitch,

padded satin stitch (the inside area of the shape is padded with seed stitch,

multiple layers of satin stitch, or an outline stitch filling), outlined stitch, or an

outline stitch filling), outlined satin stitch and shaded satin.

Satin Stitch - Long & Short

This version of the Long & Short Satin Stitch can be used in a single

color or in multiple colors to create a shaded filling.

Satin Stitch - Padded

Padded Satin Stitch is worked in the same manner as basic, flat satin

stitch, but is worked over a padding of stitches to give the area a raised,

dimensional appearance.

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This stitch can also be worked over a padding of fusible interfacing or

felt cut to shape and tacked in place.

Scroll Stitch

The Scroll Stitch is an elegant, decorative and highly textured stitch

resembles scrolls, waves or water and can be worked along straight or curved

lines.

Running Stitch

The Running Stitch is a basic stitch and is usually the first stitch learned

by the beginner embroidery enthusiast or sewer. This stitch can be worked in

straight or curved lines, or for assembly when finishing an embroidery project.

Seed Stitch

The single Seed Stitch and Double Seed Stitch are versatile, basic

embroidery stitches that can be used as a light filling, or to work the raised or

padded satin stitch. Both versions of the stitch are worked in the same manner.

Stem Stitch

Stem Stitch is one of the most common embroidery stitches. It is worked

as a thin line and can be used to outline embroidered shapes, as flower and plant

stems, and in tendrils. Stem stitch can also be worked as a filling.

Stem Stitch Filling

Stem Stitch Filling is worked in concentric rows to completely fill an

area.

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Straight Stitch

Standard or basic Straight Stitch is a simple embroidery stitch created

using a straight, long stitch individually or in patterns. This popular surface

embroidery stitch can be worked on any type of embroidery fabric including

plain weave. Using straight stitches arranged in groups you can make leaves and

flowers or geometric designs. Premark the fabric, or work the stitch freestyle,

creating an infinite number of unique patterns.

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CHAPTER III

METHODOLOGY

The methodology for the study on “Empowerment of women through

income generating tailoring and embellishment techniques” is given under the

following headings.

The whole project is divided in to four phases.

Phase 1

Selection of area and target group.

Duration - one month

Sample size - 36 (two batches of 18 members )

Target group second and third year students of Family and community

Science students.

Phase 2

a. Training in basic tailoring (basic stitches, machine practice, seams, hems,

fullness, fasteners, and finishing).

Duration - four months

b. Training in surface embellishment techniques (screen printing, block

printing, fabric painting, appliqué and embroideries).

Duration – five months

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Phase 3

a. Training in stitching of home textiles (bed sheets, pillowcases, hand

towels, table clothes, tray clothes, table napkins, curtains etc).

Duration – six months

Phase 4

a. Evaluation of the trainees regarding the training programme. The

evaluation of the programme was carried out by taking feedback

information from the target group.

Duration- one month

The results of the study was given in the chapter result and discussion.

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CHAPTER IV

RESULT AND DISCUSSION

The result of the training programme conducted for the trainees was

discussed as follows.

The whole project was divided in to four phases

Phase 1

Selection of area and target group

36 students (two batches of 18 students) of first, second and third year

students of Family and community science students of Assumption College

were selected for the study. The selection was done from 1-05-2014 to 30-06

2014.

Phase 2

a. A training in basic tailoring (basic stitches, machine practice, seams,

hems, fasteners and finishing were given for the first batch (18

students)of students from 2-07 -14 to 1-10-14.The training of the second

batch was conducted from 3-010-14 to 1-01-15. The trainers undergoing

training in basic tailoring were shown in figure1 and 2.

b. Training in surface embellishment techniques, screen printing, block

printing fabric painting, appliqué and embroideries were done for the

first batch from 5-01-15 to 3-05-15.the training for the same for second

batch was conducted from 5-05- 15 to 5-09-15. The trainers undergoing

training in block printing, screen printing batik and tie and dyeing were

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sown in figure3 and 4.The training conducted for embroidery and hand

stitches were shown in figure 3,4 and 5.

Phase 3

Training in stitching of Home textiles like bed sheets, pillow cases, hand

towels, table cloths, tray clothes, table napkins curtain were given for the first

batch from 8-09-15 to 8-02-16. The training for the second batch was

conducted from10-02-16 to 12-05- 16. The screen printed and blocks printed

bed sheets and table clothes were shown in figure 6,7and 8.The constructed

scatter cushion covers for chairs and cots were shown in figure 9. The

developed and constructed table clothes and tablemats were shown in figure

10,11 12 and 13.

Phase 4

To assess the acceptability of the trainees regarding the training

programme, a proforma was prepared (Appendix-1) and conducted the

evaluation among the trainees. The assessment was done for the first batch

from12-02-16 to 22-02-16.The assessment for the second batch was conducted

from 17-05-16- 27-05-16.

Evaluation of the Training Programme

The feedback of the training programme conducted for the trainees were

discussed as follows.

Feedback of the training in surface embellishment techniques, printing

and dyeing classes, basic tailoring classes, stitching of home linens were taken

from the trainees. The skill output of the module and the content of the training

programme were also considered for evaluation.

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Fig. 1

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Fig. 2

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Fig. 3

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Fig. 4

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Fig. 5

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Fig. 6

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Fig. 7

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Fig. 8

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Fig. 9

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Fig. 10

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Fig. 11

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Fig. 12

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Fig. 13

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a. Evaluation of basic tailoring classes

Table 1

Evaluation of basic tailoring classes

Criteria n %

Excellent 22

Very Good 67

Good 11

Fair -

Total 100

67% of the trainees commented that the training about basic stitches,

machine practice, seams, hems, fullness, fasteners and finishes were very good

and it would be helpful for stitching garments, home linens and other tailoring

works at home or in tailoring units.

b. Evaluation of surface embellishment techniques

Table 1

Evaluation of surface embellishment techniques

Criteria n%

Excellent 72

Very Good 22

Good 6

Fair -

Total 100

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72% of the trainees commented that the training in surface

embellishment techniques was excellent. Regarding the training in surface

embellishment techniques like screen printing block printing tie and dye, batik,

fabric painting and embroideries the trainers responded that it was very helpful

for self employment and there by generate additional income for the family.

Now a days the raw materials and simple tools for printing dyeing and painting

were very common and were available at thread houses and craft shops at a

reasonable price.

c. Evaluation of training in stitching of Home textiles

Table 3

Evaluation of training in stitching of Home textiles

Criteria n%

Excellent 67

Very Good 27

Good 6

Fair -

Total 100

Table 3 shows that 67% of the trainees commented that the training in

stitching and decoration of home linens was excellent. From the feedback it

was understood that the training in stitching and decoration of home linens like

bed sheets, pillow cases cushion covers ,hand towels table clothes ,table mats,

tray clothes table napkins were very good and helpful for stitching for home

purpose and as self employment to generate additional income.

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d. Evaluation of the skill output of the programme

Table 4

Evaluation of the skill output of the programme

Criteria n%

Excellent 78

Very Good 16

Good 6

Fair -

Total 100

78% of the trainees reported that the skill output of the programme was

excellent. Regarding the skill output of the programme the trainees commented

that the training programme was excellent for skill development .The training

increases the confidence and perfection in doing various activities like stitching

and printing and decorating home textiles and garments.

e. Evaluation about the course content of the training programme

Table 5

Evaluation of the course content

Criteria n%

Excellent 83

Very Good 17

Good -

Fair -

Total 100

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83% of the trainees commented that the course content of the training

programme was excellent. Regarding the content of the training programme,

the trainees also commented that it was adequate and informative and simple.

In general the training programme conducted for empowerment of women

through income generating tailoring and embellishment techniques was very

good, highly informative helpful for skill development as a suggestion the

trainees opines that the training could be conducted for designing and

construction of garments like Churidhar, Kameez, frocks and blouses.

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CONCLUSION

Rich knowledge base and the skills, which act as the driving forces for

the economic growth and social development of a country, are essential for

translating a country’s vision of inclusive growth into a reality.

Entrepreneurship is a key factor in the development of our nation. The

development of a nation will be brought about not only by men entrepreneurs

but also by women entrepreneurs. If men only developed this nation it would

lead to mono lateral development of the nation whereas to develop our nation,

we need bilateral development that is women empowerment. In the words of

Swami Vivekananda, “Just as a bird could not fly with one wing only, a nation

would not march forward if the women are left behind”. If women want to be

empowered, either they should seek lucrative jobs or go in for

entrepreneurship; otherwise they could not stand on their own legs. Getting a

lucrative job is not an easy task. So entrepreneurship is the better alternative for

woman empower herself. Women need courage, confidence, support and

assistance from their family members to come out from the four wall of the

house to prove her identity and capability.

Empowerment of women and gender equality recognized globally as a

key element to achieve progress in all areas. It is one of the eight millennium

goals to which world leaders agreed at the Millennium Summit held at New

York in 2000 (Bhagyalakshmi, 2004). Empowerment in the context of

women’s development is a way of defining, challenging and overcoming

barriers in a woman’s life through which she increases her ability to shape her

life and environment. It is an active, multidimensional process which should

enable women to their full identity and power in all spheres of life.

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Entrepreneurship development and income generating activities are a

feasible solution for empowering women. It generates income and also

provides flexible working hours according to the needs of home makers.

Economic independence is the need of the hour. Participation in income

generating activities helps in the overall empowerment of women. Empowering

women through education, ideas, consciousness, mobilization and participatory

approach can enable them to take their own decisions, make them self-reliant

and self-confident.

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REFERENCES

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3. Bhagyalakshmi, J. (2004). Women’s empowerment: miles to go.

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12. Sen., R. (2004). Freedom through financial independence. Span. July-

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handicraft-tailoring-training/

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women through Vocational Training

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linens

https://in.pinterest.com/explore/making-cushion-covers

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APPENDIX-1

TRAINING IN EMPOWERMENT OF WOMEN THROUGH

INCOME GENERATING TAILORING AND

EMBELLISHMENT TECHNIQUES

FEEDBACK FORM

1. Name of the student.

2. Class.

3. How do you rate the training in basic tailoring?

a. Excellent b. Good c. Average d. Poor

4. How do you rate the training in basic tailoring?

a. Excellent b. Good c. Average d. Poor

5. How do you rate the training in stitching of Home textiles?

a. Excellent b. Good c. Average d. Poor

6. How do you rate the training in Surface embellishment?

a. Excellent b. Good c. Average d. Poor

7. Your comment regarding the content of the training programme.

a. Adequate b. Not adequate

8. Skill output of the training programme.

a. Excellent b. Good c. Average d. Poor