em surfing pool design synopsis

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ElectroMagnetic (EM) Surfing Pools DESIGN SYNOPSIS Copyright & Intellectual Property of Raife Michael Billington December 2015

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ElectroMagnetic (EM) Surfing Pools

DESIGN SYNOPSIS

Copyright & Intellectual Property of Raife Michael Billington

December 2015

Design Synopsis on the ElectroMagnetic Surfing Pool

1.0 Wave Dynamics

2.0 EM Wave Generator

2.1 Basic Structure & Functioning

2.2 Plate Specifics

2.3 Chamber Specifics

2.4 MagneMotion Inc. USA

3.0 EM Wave Generation

3.1 The Elegance of EM Wave Generation

4.0 Break Zones & Changeable Elements

4.1 1st Reef

4.2 2nd Reef/Reform

4.3 Bombies/Play Pool

4.4 Tidal Control System (TCS)

5.0 Proof-of-Concept Scale Models

5.1 MagneMotion Inc. Feasibility Study & 1:4 Scale Test Models

5.2 Flow Channels

5.3 Reef Padding for Safety

5.4 Surface Repulsion Technology (SRT)

5.5 Curved Side Walls

6.0 Commercial EM Surfing Pool

6.1 Pool Capacity

7.0 Potential Designs

1.0 Wave Dynamics

The EM Surfing Pool (EMSP) design is based on oscillatory wave action consistent with the natural

world. In particular, on those days when favourable factors of tide, wind, swell size & direction in

relation to a specific surfing break, all coexist and create perfect* tubing waves for experienced

surfers. These dynamics translated into the EMSP design are a continuous oscillation of 12s (wave

period) between wave crests @ 90m apart (wavelength) with an amplitude of 1.5m above the still

water level (SWL). This produces a sinusoidal** wave with a 3m wave height which in surfing terms

would be the equivalent of a 9ft wave face or ‘overhead’ wave.

*Perfect is a subjective term and will differ from one surfer to another. Bingin Reef in Bali, Indonesia

is considered by many a perfect tube wave on its day. The EMSP design is based on findings at

Bingin that include reef bathymetry & flow channel dimensions/spacing, swell angle & wave period

@3m wave height, water depth at break zones over the tidal range etc.

**Sinusoidal refers to a repetitive smooth oscillation and when observed in natural systems would

refer to continuous set waves produced by a consistent ground swell i.e. the break aptly named

‘Infinities’ on Kauai, Hawaii.

2.0 EM Wave Generator

In order to generate the wave properties outlined for a powerful tube, a series of individual EM

Wave Cells are arranged in a straight line along the end wall at the deep end of the pool. Each of the

32 EM Wave Cells that makes up the EM Wave Generator is a vertical chamber 8.5m long x 2.85m

square, and within each cell is a plate slightly smaller in width than the chamber.

So the plates in each Wave Cell descend in unison 7m to 5.5m below the swl @ an average velocity

of 1.16m/s. That is the plates descend 7m from 1.5m above the swl in 6s, then return from 5.5m

below the swl to 1.5m above the swl in 6s. This complete oscillation effectively establishes a 12s

wave period @ 3m wave height by setting the amplitude at 1.5m above the SWL.

Note: The chamber width and corresponding plate area 2.85m² when combined with the 7m stroke

and average plate velocity of 1.16m² deliver the required magnitude of wave energy.

So within each wave cell the vertical oscillating motion translates into a continuous horizontal pulse

of energy down the length of the pool with the desired wave properties to make perfect ‘overhead’

tubing waves at the 1st reef and spilling ‘chest high’ waves at the 2nd reef reform.

2.1 EM Wave Cell - Basic Structure & Functioning

Each wave cell is made up of 4 vertical chamber walls and complimentary horizontal plate. There

are 2 x 8m long electromagnetic coils (Stators) embedded in the front and back walls of the

chamber. The stators correspond to permanent magnets (Actuators) affixed to the front and

backsides of the plate.

So an electrical current flows through the stators and its precise location and velocity is controlled in

real time through a computer interface such as a laptop with specialised software. This flow of

electrical current produces a magnetic field which interacts with the permanent magnet array

affixed in or on the plate and actuates the plate into motion. So in effect the plates move up and

down the chambers in each EM Wave Cell with the precise velocity (speed & direction) assigned to it

via a computer interface.

Note: The electrical current at no time makes contact with the water inside the chamber

2.2 Plate Specifics

In a still pool the plate is held in place resting on top of the SWL by a simple mechanical means.

When the EM Wave Generator is activated, the simple mechanical means of holding the plate in

place is removed at the same time electrical flow is introduced into the Stator. This creates a

powerful magnetic field at the precise location of the resting plate which holds the Actuator in its

embrace.

In terms of functioning the plate could be termed a plunger, however it doesn’t create a tight seal

against the cell walls. Rather there is a small gap of water approximately 5mm around the plate

perimeter that acts as a natural lubricant between the outside edge of the plate and the inside walls

of the chamber. This gap will remain constant either through the EM effect or there will be guide

wheels in precise locations.

2.3 Wave Cell Specifics

Each chamber is a square 2.85m x 2.85m x 8.5m high with a total available 8m vertical stroke. That

is 2m above the standard swl setting and 6m below. The plate travels up and down this stroke and

the height above the swl sets the wave amplitude (also wave height), whilst the length of the stroke

combined with the plate velocity sets the wave period i.e. the time it takes the plate to travel 7m.

2.4 MagneMotion Inc. USA

MagneMotion have installed electromagnetic propulsion technology in a US navy ship. There

patented LSM (linear Synchronous Motor) technology employs EM to create a cable-less elevator

capable of instant acceleration, high speeds, little maintenance, high efficiency and low operational

costs. MagneMotion will determine the specifications for the Stators (EM coils) and corresponding

Actuators (permanent magnet array) required for the EM Wave Generator based on force

calculations among other variables. These factors will come to light in a feasibility study/EM Wave

Cell 1:4 scale model when funding is established.

3.0 EM Wave Generation Process

In order to generate the 1st wave from a still pool, the plate resting on the SWL travels vertically

upwards 1.5m against gravity & water weight. At this stage 100% electrical energy is required to

propel the plate, effectively drawing the water upwards in each cell 1.5m above the SWL. From this

initial top position, one complete stroke 7m downwards takes 6s which translates to an average

velocity of 1.16m/s. Once at the bottom positon 5.5m below the SWL, a seamless transition will see

the plate returning the 7m stroke upwards taking 6s also at an average velocity of 1.16m/s.

This provides the 1st complete oscillation and requires the most electrical input from a still pool to

the 1st wave breaking on the 1st reef. It takes 2 complete oscillations for the 1st wave generated to

reform and break on the 2nd reef and by the 5th complete oscillation, waves have reached the

shoreline approximately 280m from the wave generator and currents have begun to be established.

Pictorial representing the magnitude of electrical input to generate the 1st wave through to the 7th

wave from a still pool where each indentation is one complete plate oscillation.

3.1 The Elegance of EM Wave Generation

Electricity and Magnetism = Movement

Magnetism and Movement = Electricity

Somewhere between the 5th and 9th complete oscillation an equilibrium is established in the pool

and wave energy towards the beach balances with current flow away from the beach. In effect

localised currents form at both major reefs and the 5 smaller reefs and all combine with currents

returning from the beach in response to the dissipation of wave energy towards the beach. This

ratio of wave action to pool currents harmonizes forming a coherent pool system at which time the

electrical input to electrical output ratio within the EM wave generator reaches peak performance

and remains constant.

It is at this point that semi-perpetual motion is realized and electrical input is partially balanced by

electrical output

The ratio of electrical input to electrical output at pool equilibrium will be determined by a 1:4 scale

model with scaled EM Wave Generator

The design is such that the 7.5m water depth along the end wall of wave cells creates a natural back

pressure when the plates are 5.5m below swl at the bottom position. This back pressure stems

from the total body of water within the pool acting against the plate at this lowest position within

the 7m stroke. So as the plate changes direction and makes its ascent, it is propelled upwards

generating electrical current in the stator which is returned and later used by the system. At some

point between the plates ascent back to its top position 1.5m above swl, an input of electrical

current is again required to counter act the force of gravity combined with the back pressure acting

against the plate.

So once at the top position 1.5m above swl, the downward force of gravity combined with back

pressure is tremendous, effectively pulling the plate at least 50% of the 7m stroke downwards. It is

during these push/pull segments of the stroke oscillation that electricity is generated due to the

reciprocal nature of electromagnetism i.e. The magnetic field emanating from the Actuator (the 2

permanent magnet arrays on the plate) generates an electrical current in the Stator (the 2 long

corresponding EM coils on opposing sides of the chamber) as it moves either downwards or upwards

by naturally occurring forces as a direct result of the 7m vertical oscillation.

In other words, on the upward stroke from 5.5m below swl, the back pressure pushes the plate

upwards effectively overriding gravity, this movement generates electricity for approximately 50% of

the upward stroke. Whilst on the downward stroke from 1.5m above swl, the back pressure and

gravitational effect pulls the plate downwards also generating electricity for approximately 50% of

the downward stroke of the oscillation.

It is estimated that the EM Surfing Pool will be operating at approximately 80 to 90% energy

efficiency once equilibrium is established after the 9th wave. It is anticipated some losses of

electrical energy will occur however the exact amount is subject to a 1:4 scale EMSP physical model

The scalar effect on gravity waves calls for an as-close-as-possible scale model to full size for the

most realistic transferable data, so 1:4 scale has been chosen based on cost effectiveness

4.0 Break Zones & Changeable Elements

The pool has 4 fixed break zones that progressively utilise and dissipate wave energy. The 1st reef

utilises the full 3m wave height and associated energy into a powerful tubing wave for experienced

surfers. Immediately after the tubing wave peels along the 1st reef, water depth increases and the

broken water returns into a swell and reforms on the 2nd reef at a wave height of approximately

1.4m (approximately 40% wave height @ 1st reef). Immediately after the reform wave spills along

the 2nd reef the water depth increases and the swell intercepts 5 bombies (abrupt shoals causing a

steep wave face for boogie board riders) which break at approximately 0.6m effectively dispersing

the wave energy before it enters the play pool zone and breaks on the shore as residual swash.

In order to change the break characteristics at each of the 4 zones there are 2 main changeable

elements. Firstly, there is a Tidal Control System (TCS) which enables the swl in the pool to be raised

by 0.5m or lowered by 0.5m from a standard swl setting. And Secondly the EM wave generator

consists a number of individual EM wave cells depending upon the width of the pool. The timing on

each cell can be adjusted so instead of delivering a straight wave, curved waves of any variation can

be delivered. Furthermore, the wave height can be adjusted within each cell which adds another

entirely different variable to alter wave characteristics at the break zones.

4.1 1st Reef

The 1st reef is modelled from Bingin which is a reef shelf with a slope of 1:10 that rises out of deep

water. The peel angle has been increased slightly to 58˚to extend the ride length to approximately

70m and slow down the breaking speed to allow for more manoeuvres vs straight tube riding. It has

then been mirrored (pictured below) to create a perfect peaking wave for both regular and goofy

footed surfers riding either forehand or backhand at the same time.

4.2 2nd Reef/Reform

The 2nd reef is a gradual 1:20 slope to create a gentle spilling wave with a peel angle of 38˚ giving a

ride length of approximately 60m in both directions. The reef ends 10m before the side wall on each

side which acts as both the channel for experienced/intermediate surfers paddling to the 1st reef and

the current to aid beginner/intermediate surfers to return to the reform wave take-off position.

4.3 Bombies & Play Pool

The play pool zone is for swimmers and soft boards only and will have buoys delineating this zone

from the surfers further out at the reform/2nd reef. Red & yellow flags will indicate the play pool

zone and surfers for both reefs will enter the water from either side of the pool. There are 5

bombies positioned between the reform/2nd reef and the play pool zone. The bombies all peak for

fast short 12m rides in both directions for boogie board riders. The remainder of wave energy

dissipates on the shoreline as swash up the beach.

4.4 Tidal Control System (TCS)

The TCS effectively provides a +/- 0.5m tidal fluctuation in the whole pool which significantly alters

the breaking characteristics at each break zone. The pool has a standard SWL setting which sees

1.5m of water over the apex at the 1st reef, 0.75m of water over the apex at the 2nd reef and 0.5m of

water over the bombies. A high tide setting will see greater energy/wave heights at the reform/2nd

reef and at the bombies/play pool zone, and a fatter less hollow tube at the 1st reef. Whereas a low

tide setting will see less energy/wave heights at the reform/2nd reef and bombies/play pool area and

a steeper hollower tube at 1st reef.

Ultimately the TCS will work via an adjoining pipeline to a nearby river and by filling or draining the

pool using an inline high volume pump through inline filters to remove fish and sediment. By

incorporating a reservoir pool set above the surfing pool or by working with the naturally occurring

tidal movement in an adjacent river, the tide could be changed using gravity and low volume pumps.

Closing the system in the winter and heating & filtering the water could also be an option.

Regardless of the tide setting the generated wave properties (3m wave height @12s) remain the

same whilst the wave breaking characteristics change substantially.

5.0 Proof-of-Concept Scale Models

Two working models were built in 2008 at scale from the drafted pool plans included in this

document. A 1:25 scale flume model 12cm wide x 30cm tall x 9m long representing 1 x EM Wave

Cell and corresponding section down the length of the pool, created a wave height of 12cm and

proved semi-perpetual motion is ‘present and accounted for’ in the wave cell design. This model

used a manually operated plate, that even at 1:25 scale demonstrated significant forces working

both for and against the vertical motion of the plate at different positions within the stroke. It

proved that once oscillation harmony became established, somewhere between the 5th and 9th wave

from a simulated still pool, the plate moved without manual input for significant segments of both

the downward and upward aspects of the stroke.

A 1:50 scale full-pool concept model followed the flume model described above, 2m to 2.4m wide x

6m long and created a 6cm high tubing wave at the 1st Reef. This model was too small a scale to

prove the 2nd reef/reform placement, as it is pictured in the pool plans, however it proved the basic

pool layout works for the 1st reef tubing wave and harmonious balancing of currents. A preview

video of these 2 models can be viewed online by searching ‘Raife Billington Wave Pool’ in Google.

5.1 MagneMotion Inc. Feasibility Study & 1:4 Scale Test Models

The 1st major step towards a full size pool is to commence a feasibility study with Magnemotion in

conjunction with a 1:4 scale flume model of an EM Wave Cell at MagneMotion headquarters. The

results of the study would then be rolled over into developing a 1:2 size fully functioning display pool

complete with 32 x 1:2 scale EM Wave Cells and complementary computer operating platform.

Testing of this model and design refinement will provide Magnemotion with the necessary data to

develop the full size EM Wave Generator producing 3m wave heights.

In conjunction to the EM Wave Generation development outlined above, a 1:4 scale test pool with

an oscillating Hydraulic wave generator will complete the pool design layout. It will produce a 0.75m

wave at the 1st reef and 0.35m wave at the reform/2nd reef and be 25-30m wide and approximately

70m long. At this scale it will prove:

1st reef breaking characteristics and flow channel placement

2nd reef/reform best placement, flow channel placement & breaking characteristics

Bombies best placement & breaking characteristics

In addition to these steps there are a number of elements which require dedicated investigation and

development as outlined below.

5.2 Flow Channels

Flow Channels are at work in most reef breaks around the world created from erosion due to

naturally occurring currents over long spans of time. These channels are spaced approximately 10m

apart along the 70-80m break zone at Bingin and are all 1m deep x 1m wide and run perpendicular

to the predominant swell direction. In the 1:4 scale test model the reefs will be set up to erode

gradually whilst waves are continually produced. The flow channels will then be in harmony with

currents formed at the reefs to naturalize the pool system.

˃

˃

Pictured are 2 major Flow Channels in the reef (indicated by the arrows) either side of the surfer

riding a wave at Bingin, Bali Indonesia

5.3 Reef Padding for Safety

The 1st & 2nd reefs and 5 bombies will all be padded at the break zones as a safeguard against injury

on the pool bottom. A SRT coating will be applied over the padded zones. These materials will be

tested in the 1:4 scale model for suitability in the full size pool.

5.4 Surface Repulsion Technology (SRT)

The hulls of the latest cargo ships employ hydrophobic antifouling methods to affectively repel

water from the hull surface reducing drag and resistance. Furthermore, these surfaces restrict the

attachment of marine organisms keeping the hull free of debris reducing water resistance. This

equates to huge savings in fuel consumption and travel time.

All wetted surfaces in the pool will be coated with a hydrophobic layer/anti-fouling that reduces

both drag on water particles and the attachment of marine life that enters the pool through the TCS

pipeline. SRT will serve to help conserve wave energy down the length of the pool whilst the

continuous wave action will aid in the reduction of micro marine life attaching to pool surfaces,

ultimately assisting in ensuring minimal maintenance.

5.4 Chop Cancellation Technology (CCT)

With continuous wave production (no lulls) and a realistic turnover of high numbers of people riding

waves and paddling in the pool in between riding waves, the water surface will become disturbed.

Over the course of a days operation ripples on the surface will multiply into small chop which will

only be sustained in between 2 smooth vertical sidewalls providing 100% wave reflection. It is

imperative the water surface be as smooth as possible, much like an Olympic pool with its perimeter

drains set at the pools SWL.

There are ways of helping reduce chop by having irregular non-smooth pool wall surfaces, however

this existing method would be less effective in the EMSP due to marine growth and some wave

energy decay. By employing pool grates like those used in Olympic pools only on their side

vertically, the chop will simply be skimmed off the surface as waves travel down the length of the

pool.

CCT will be designed specifically for the EMSP and be researched & developed with that function in

mind and tested on the 1:4 scale model.

5.5 Directional Pulse Design

A 12.5˚ inclination on the end wall gives the pulse a direction as it leaves the depths of the EM Wave

Cells 7.5m below SWL. This will be tested in the 1:4 scale model for optimal angle inclination.

5.6 Curved Side Walls

The end of the 1st reef meets a curved sidewall which allows the wave energy to dissipate ending

the ride approximately 20m before the wall. The currents flow along this wall and rip the surfers

paddling back out to the take-off position. This enabled a smoother less volatile current flow in the

1:50 concept model and its optimum radius and slope will be further developed.

6.0 Commercial EM Surfing Pool

The 100-140m wide by 280m long commercial pool design has the following characteristics:

32 EM Wave Cells with 64 x 8m long LSM Stators

32 Plates with 64 permanent magnet Actuators

Electrical Componentry associated with each EM Wave Cell

1 High level control module capable of changing these variables in each wave cell:

o Timing of each cell – to generate curved or straight waves

o Wave height in each cell by increasing or decreasing stroke length and plate velocity

o Combinations of both of the above

o Tide sensor ensures wave height remains consistent across tidal settings

o 4m wave height can be made for pro-surfing competitions

EM Wave Generator has no connecting moving parts, minimal maintenance and virtually no

noise

Tidal Control System (TCS) can manipulate breaking conditions @ all surfing zones with a 1m

tide variation. Basic sediment and fish filtration system with no added chemicals

Surface Repulsion Technology (SRT) will ensure wave energy conservation whilst also

preventing marine growth on all wetted surfaces in the pool

Chop Cancellation Technology (CCT) to ensure the water surface remains smooth during

continuous wave production and maximum capacity

Padded Break Zones for Safety

2 Separate Surfing Zones for Hard and Soft Boards

o 1st Reef 3m Tubing Wave breaking for 70m each way from the centre

o 2nd Reef/Reform 1.4m Spilling Wave breaking for 50m each way from the centre

1 Beginners Surfer/Body Boarding Zone for Soft Boards Only and Large Play Pool Zone for

Swimmers:

o 5 x Bombies 0.6m fast short steep waves breaking for 12m each way

o Play Pool with small waves and shore-breakers at the beach

Red/Yellow Flags indicate swimming zone and a Series of Buoys Separate Swimmers and Soft

Boards from 1st and 2nd reef hard boards

14 individual rides produced per wave generated plus small shore-breakers

6.1 Pool Capacity

Every 12 seconds a wave is generated and 14 individual rides are produced over 3 break zones

o 1st Reef Tubing Wave provides an ‘overhead’ 70m left tube ride & 70m right tube ride

o 2nd Reef/Reform Spilling Wave provides a ‘chest high’ 60m left spilling ride & 60m right

spilling ride

o 5 bombies provide 0.6m fast steep 12m left & 12m right rides

In every hour in one pool there are 4200 individual rides produced

o 40 Experienced/Intermediate surfers get 15 tubing waves each – 1 wave every 4 minutes

o 40 Beginner/Intermediate surfers get 15 spilling reform waves each – 1 wave every 4

minutes

o 20 body boarders at each bombie (5 bombies, 100 body boarders) get 30 short fast

bombie waves each – 1 wave every 2 minutes

o Total of 180 people riding waves spread out over the 3 surfing zones

In every daily 18hrs of continuous operation 75,600 individual rides are produced potentially

catering to

o 720 Experienced/Intermediate Surfers

o 720 Beginner/Intermediate Surfers

o 1800 Beginner/Body Boarders

o 2160 Swimmers

o Spectators

7.0 Potential Designs

It is possible to make Teahupoo or any other surf break in the world by respecting the EM Surfing

Pool format and altering the design. For instance, to produce Teahupoo a much larger purpose built

pool would be required with the following alterations:

o Increase the plate area and stroke length of each EM Wave cell

o Increase the number of LSM stator/actuators in each EM wave cell

o Investigate the reef bathymetry at Teahupoo and apply it to the bottom contour in the pool

Glossary of Terms

Sinusoidal - The sine wave or sinusoid is a mathematical curve that describes a smooth repetitive

oscillation. It is named after the function sine; of which it is the graph. It occurs often in pure and

applied mathematics, as well as physics, engineering, signal processing and many other fields.

Perpetual Motion - a state in which movement or action is or appears to be continuous and unceasing. "the planet is in perpetual motion" The motion of a hypothetical machine which, once activated, would run forever unless subject to an external force or to wear. Bathymetry - the study of underwater depth of lake or ocean floors. In other words, bathymetry

is the underwater equivalent to topography.

Stator - the stationary portion of an electric generator or motor, especially of an induction motor

Actuator - a type of motor that is responsible for moving or controlling a mechanism or system.

It is operated by a source of energy, typically electric current, hydraulic fluid pressure, or

pneumatic pressure, and converts that energy into motion.

ElectroMagnetic (EM) Surfing Pools

Raife Michael Billington

Broadbeach Waters, Gold Coast, Australia, 4218 | +61 450 651484 | [email protected]