eirv 2009-05 - issue #11

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    Spring 2009 Celebrating the Abundance of Iowas Local Foods, Season by Season Number 11

    Hub City Beer - Slow Money - The 99Iowas Poet Farmer - MarketWatch

    edible Member of Edible Communiti

    IOWA RIVER VALLEY

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    ContentsSpring 2009

    Departments

    4 Grist for the Mill

    Spring forward 7 Notable Edibles

    Tasty tidbits to savor

    16 Edible ImbibablesHub City BrewingBy Katie Roche

    21 The 99 A con uence of avors in Lee CountyBy Ku Michael Friese

    26 Behind Closed DoorsIowa City & Coralville Convention & Visitors Bureau President Josh ShambergerBy Rob C

    29 Subscription FormGet Edible delivered right to your home

    30 The Last WordInquiries into the nature of Slow Money: Aninterview with author Woody TaschBy Kurt Michael Friese

    Features

    8 Iowas Poet Farmer Mary Swander By Michael Knock

    10 Market Economy Discover the frugality of buying local food By Anna Wilson

    13 Recession-Proofing Restaurants

    Local chefs cut costs, not avor By Brian M18 MarketWatch

    e skinny on your local farmers markets statew

    24 Edible CommunitiesLocal Heroes around the country

    Spring 2009 www.EdibleIowa.com 3

    On the cover:Onion Blossom. Photo by Kurt Michael

    All of us at Edible are proud to call these folks our Partners. ey understand the importance of

    supporting local farms, local food, and the local economy. To join the growing list of Edible Partners,

    please contact sales manager Rachel Morey @ 319.241.4442 or [email protected]

    Be sure to visit the Edible Partners listed here, and thank them for supporting sustainable food and

    Edible Iowa River Valley

    Augusta pg.6Blackhawk Hotel pg. 15Blend pg. 23Bread Garden pg. 32Cafe Dodici pg. 12Cafe del Sol Roasting pg. 15Cart by Cart pg. 20Chocolatier Stam pg. 6Design Ranch pg. 28Devotay pg. 31Edible Communities pg. 25

    e Englert eatre pg. 5Fireside Winery pg. 15Hills Bank pg. 20Iowa Artisans Gallery pg. 15Iowa City Farmers Market pg. 15Iowa Wine and Beer pg. 12Iowa Wine Trail pg. 14

    Jasper Winery pg. 28 Johns Grocery pg. 14MidWestOne Bank pg. 23Motley Cow pg. 28

    Muddy Creek Wines pg. 31New Pioneer Co-op pg. 11Oneota Community Co-op pg. 31Organic Valley pg. 6Robinson Wellness pg. 5Scattergood pg. 29Sutliff Cider pg. 20Tassel Ridge Winery pg. 2USA Pears pg. 12

    Wheats eld Co-op pg. 29

    edible IOWA RIVER VALLEY

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    gristfor the mill

    Dear Eater,

    Spring has sprung and with it comes the 11th edition of Edible IowaRiver Valley. In this issue we unveil two new regular features, delvedeeply into this economic mess were all in, and bring you a detailedlist of the farmers markets across the Hawkeye State.

    Long time readers will remember our regular featuresIncredible Edi-bles and What a Difference a Day Makes . e former investigated thebest in local food in one particular berg each season, while the latterwas more of a roadtrip.

    Starting with this issue we have combined them, in a sense, to createwhat were calling e 99 (see page 21). With each issue, Edible willtreat you to the best in local food, farms and drinks in one of Iowas99 counties. Were starting in the southeast corner, in Lee County,well eat our way across the state to nd the good stuff in each andevery Iowa county. If theres something you know we should not missin your county, make sure to let us know about it.

    e other new department is called e Last Word , and its just that:the last word on any given subject (page 30). Naturally its comprisedof the last words in the magazine as well. No fair skipping past all thejuicy stuff between here and there though. is time, with the econ-omy on everyones mind, we take a look at someInquiries Into the Na-ture of Slow Money with venture capitalist and author Woody Tasch.

    anks to the good folks at the Iowa Department of Agriculture andLand Stewardship, we have an in-depth listing of farmers marketsacross Iowa for the season (page 18). Meanwhile reporter MichaelKnock has a pro le of Iowas newest Poet Laureate, Mary Swander,who has a passion for the soil on her farm and everyone elses (thats on page 8).

    Anna Wilson is showing us how it truly is more frugal to shop locally while Brian Morelli checks in with local restaurateurs about how economy is effecting their businesses. We have two new breweries to bring you, one inNotables (on page 7) and the other in Katie Rochesongoing seriesEdible Imbibables (on page 16).

    You may remember last issue we brought you the Local Heroes that you voted for. 50 other Edibles around the country did the sameand their winners are all listed on page 24.

    Please remember to visit our advertising partners - they not only support us but also the very ideas we espouse here atEdible Iowaand thefarmers and food artisans that make this such a great place. If youd like to join them and advertise here in these pages, give our new samanager Rachel Morey a call at 319.241.4442 or email her at [email protected].

    With Relish,Kurt & Kim

    4 www.EdibleIowa.com Spring 2009

    Publishers Kurt & Kim F

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    notableedibles

    Baking Bread Together

    For someone who wants to learn the basics of baking bread, to the artisan looking for some new ideas, Breadtopia.com is the place to go. Based in Fair eld, this web site has absolutely every-thing you need and need to know about the craft and art of gorgeous, mouthwatering bread.From brioche to bread boxes, books and even butter bells, you will not be disappointed with theselection of gadgets and outcome of the fantastic recipes. e most popular method is their "no-knead method", which is exactly what it sounds like. What could be easier? e video tutorialsare approachable, personable and informative. Eric and Denyce Rush, designers, bakers and allaround talented folks are behind this most delicious place to spend an afternoon in your kitchen.

    www.Breadtopia.com

    Barb's Garden and Pantry

    If you attend a farmers market in Eastern Iowa, you have most likely seen tlong tables precisely lined with nearly identical jars. ese simple square jarcontain the fruits and labors of the 7th and 8th generation farm family of Steve and Barbara Pethoud. ey create these delicious jams, jellies and sprein their farm kitchen with produce from their orchard and other producers.

    ey also raise poultry, keep bees, and make a fantastic granola and otherbaked goods. Many of these items are now available year round at their website. Some favorite items include Clementine Marmalade, Apple Butter andSugar Free Jams which are just that, fruit, pectin and no sweetener (arti ciaotherwise) is added. It is quite difficult to choose from the more than 30small-batch colorful gems that line the tables at many farmers markets inEastern Iowa.

    Barbara PethoudLong Grove www.BarbsPantry.com563.285.8966

    Great River Brewing

    Brewers Scott Lehnert and Paul Kreuzfeldare very happy these days. Having moved from a brew pub in Iowa City, (Old Captol Brewery) to the Great River Brewery in Davenport, they are now able to focus what they love without the distractions of owning and operating a restaurant. ebeer is better than ever and will be more widely available through their own distribtion system.

    Farmer Brown Ale, La Jefa (pilsner style) and Straight Pipe Stout are just a few of standard offerings with seasonal brews too. You won't see these beauties in bottles,though. In June they hope to begin canning. Scott and Paul feel that cans are a bettbeer delivery system. ey keep the beer fresher by avoiding light and oxidation, areasier to distribute and recycle, and travel better without the concern of breakage.For now you can nd their beer at Old Capitol Brew Pub in Iowa City and severalother locations in Eastern Iowa.

    www.GreatRiverBrew.com

    Spring 2009 www.EdibleIowa.com 7

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    Iowas Poet Farmer Mary Swander Has a Passion for the Land

    By Michael Knock Mary Swander has a great joke she likes to tell.

    An Amish man was getting ready to establish a new colony inOhio, Mary begins slowly. e English thats what they call thenon-Amish you know asked him How do you think youre goingto make it on 80 acres? e Amish man says, Ya know, youre right.I dont know if I can make it on 80 acres. Forty would be a lot bet-ter. Marys voice hits a high pitch as she nears the punch line beforeit breaks into a gentle laugh. Were sitting around the kitchen tablesipping tea in her rural home in southern Johnson County. Its acold, gray March morning, but the setting is cozy and warm.

    Marys house is a converted one-room Amish country school thatsits atop a gentle ridge of land. e slight elevation affords a mar-velous view of the surrounding farmscape: mile after mile of rich,black Iowa topsoil and the dozens of small Amish farms that rely onthat soil for their livelihood. To her, those farms describe everythingthat she thinks can be right about Iowa agriculture. Living here islike living in a museum, she said. I see families of 12 living on 80acres. ey make it work because they are so diversi ed. ey haveso many things going. ey do some crops and some livestock.Some have greenhouses that grow owers and seedlings that they cansell. Others re nish peoples oors or they gather and sell walnuts.Its dizzying the number of jobs they do and the amount of work they do each day.

    Mary diversi es too. She has written three books of poetry and twocritically-acclaimed memoirs, e Desert Pilgrim (Viking, 2003)and Out of is World: A Journey of Healing (Viking/Penguin1995; UI Press 2008). She also teaches English at Iowa State Univer-sity, and last February, Gov. Chet Culver appointed her as Iowasthird Poet Laureate.

    Outside of the world of literature, she is also an avid gardener, rais-ing her own poultry and growing her own vegetables in a large or-ganic vegetable garden. at garden, and the farms that surroundher home, have given Mary an intimate connection to Iowa agricul-ture.

    Shes turned that connection into Farmscape, a readers theatre thatshe wrote in collaboration with students in her Writing about theEnvironment class at Iowa State. e plot is an interlocking series of monologues from various characters who have some connection tothe Iowa farmscape. ere are Randy and Kristi, a farming couplewho decided to put in a contract hog-con nement on their land inorder to save their century farm. eres Donald, a 68-year-old failedfamily farmer who remembers farming with horses, and Nate, aMonsanto employee. Less traditional aspects of Iowa agriculture arealso represented in Daphne and Jaime, a couple that have turned a

    farm into a bed and breakfast, Lonna and Joe, a middle-aged co

    that runs an organic vegetable farm and Jon, a 20-something ma who works on the kill oor at a slaughterhouse.

    Each monologue is based on real conversations with real peopleEach student in Marys class was assigned a different topic onegenetically modi ed foods, another organic farming, another urbsprawl, and so on and they were required to go out and nd soone to interview on that topic. Sometimes it took several visits toat the real story each character had to tell. For example, one stdent who was writing on meatpacking rst interviewed the manaof a slaughterhouse in northwest Iowa. e class decided that thestory he had to tell didnt really work.

    It was a ne interview, but it was dull, Mary said. It was really just a tour; heres the killing oor, heres my officeBut I thougthere was something there, so I asked the student to go back andtalk to a workersomeone who works on the slaughterhouse o

    We got this incredible monologue of Jon.

    In other cases, students needed to go back to get at the stories behind the stories. From those second and sometimes third and fouinterviews came amazing details like Martins story of going to tmovies when he was seven or eight years old. He and his brothechanged their clothes, but they didnt have much time to clean upafter spending the day working with livestock. Before the moviebegan, a kid sitting in front of them turned around and looked atthem.

    Somebody stinks like hogs, he said. Martin never forgot it.

    e rst, and what Mary expected to be the only performance of Farmscape was in February 2008 at Iowa State. After the perfoance, Fred Kirschenmann, a distinguished fellow at the LeopoldCenter for Sustainable Agriculture, approached her and asked if

    would be willing to take the show on the road. e Center offeredher a grant, and thats when Farmscape really took on a life of own. Its been performed in Sioux City, Grinnell, Gilbert, Clinton

    Cedar Falls, Coon Rapids and Sioux Center. While ISU students played the parts in the initial run of the showthose parts are now performed by citizens recruited from each comunity where Farmscape plays. Sometimes the actors come frlocal college or community theatre programs. In other cases, themembers have very little stage experience. Instead, they bring thown life experience to the show. e mayor of Gilbert, for examtook on the part of Martin, a family farmer who has lost his farmMary later learned that the show took on a special meaning for h

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    He told me at was really something. It kind of pulled my heartout because I lost my farm in the farm crisis, Mary remembered.So you know youre hitting a noteYoure hitting a nerve.

    Mary is quick to emphasize, that Farmscape can be performed al-most anywhere. ey have played venues as large as an historic oldtheatre in Grinnell to a beauty parlor the audience sat in the dryerchairs in Gilbert.

    Its nice to have great tech equipment and fancy lights and sound,Mary said. But weve done the show in coffee shops and bed andbreakfasts.

    Mary says she likes and understands each and every one of the char-acters in Farmscape. ere are no villains in the show. Instead,there are simply honest people who do what they think they have todo to survive. Randy and Kristy are good examples of this. Im no

    fan of hog con nements, Mary said. But these people are backedup against a wall trying to nd a way to make it. ey had $600 amonth in health insurance bills and she already had an off-farm job.People around here have the same deal. ey work all day and farmall night just to try and get their kids through college and pay theirbills.

    Mary credits her students with doing a great job of bringing out themotivations of each character. She said that they wanted the charac-ters to be as well rounded as possible.

    I hate stereotypes of farmers and Iowans, Mary said.

    As for the future of Iowas farmscape, Mary said she sees two poble roads. One is the trend that the state has been following for tpast few decades: get big or get out. Mary said a number of famfarmers she knows have recently decided to do the latter.

    On the other hand, Iowa has also seen an expansion of the very small farm in recent years. Last year more new farms got startthan at any other time in our history, Mary said. But the new farms are small. ey are the wineries and the bed and breakfastand the organic truck farms. eres a real healthy diversity goon at the same time theres this big business thing happening. Tome, its fascinating that these two currents are surviving.

    Mary is part of that diversity. She does her own seed saving, carfully collecting and drying the seeds each fall that she will plantin the garden the following spring.

    You can raise a lot on an acre, Mary said. Its amazing. e Amhave it gured out. ey have created a sustainable life.

    Spring 2009 www.EdibleIowa.com 9

    At the Garden FenceBy Mary Swander

    e scarlet runner bean vines up the stake,the petals of its blossoms parting,the hummingbirds wings beating.

    If you are interested in bringing Farmscape to your communicontact Mary Swander at [email protected] or you can c

    out her website at www.MarySwander.com.

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    Growing media attention on health issues and a bad economy may change the minds of some shoppers who previously chose conven-ience over freshness and nutrition.

    Buying locally grown food through Community Supported Agricul-ture programs, or farmers markets has become increasingly popularin recent years. Leading by example, Michelle Obama recently planted a fruit and vegetable garden on the White House lawn.

    Iowas relationship with great tasting food may be the reason thestate ranks fourth in the ratio of farmers markets per capita, and the2009 market season is anticipating the attention of many newly health conscious Iowans. In Iowa we are fortunate to grow up withgood tasting fruits, vegetables and farm-raised meat that taste in-credibly better than what you get in a grocery store, said Ginny Ginseke, Iowa Farmers Market Association President and DesMoines Drake Farmers Market Master. She went on to say that lastsummer was the best ever in terms of sales and attendance. OtherIowa farmers markets have had similar records.

    In Burlington, the Riverfront Farmers Market was forced to movefive times because of record flooding, but organizers still saw one of their best years ever, said Criss Roberts, Riverfront Farmers Mar-keting Coordinator. The location would flood, wed move. Wedfind someplace else for the week, then wed move again. Our biggestchallenge last year wasnt getting food to the people. It was gettingpeople to the food. But they found us every time.

    Ginseke and Roberts attribute the growth of their local farmers mar-kets to peoples increasing knowledge of the benefits of buying lo-cally grown food. There have been many articles about farmersmarkets and the value of locally grown food, said Ginseke. Arti-cles about being frugal and family health always have references tobuying local food. We think one of the biggest reasons is peoplediscovered that food that has just been picked tastes so much better,said Roberts.

    And going to the market gives everyone a chance to talk about

    food, which next to weather is most Iowans favorite topic of conver-sation.

    According to the publication Growing for Market, the top reasonsfor shopping at local farmers markets include: locally grown food isbetter for you, tastes better, helps support and build community,preserves open spaces, keeps taxes in check, supports a clean envi-ronment and supports the future of farming.

    Maurice Sass agrees with the importance of buying local food. Sass,patriarch of Sass Family Farm in Riverside, says that buying local

    food is the way to go in a tight economy. Ive found that peopleare basically lazy, said Sass. They dont want to make the efforgo out to a farm or to a farmers market to buy produce. They prefer the easy way of just going to the grocery store when they aredoing their other shopping.

    Sass Family Farm sells produce such as sweet corn, brown eggs, aples, watermelon, green peppers, beets, zucchini, cabbage, greenbeans, cucumbers, eggplant, fresh herbs, onions, lettuce, kohlrabi

    winter squash and tomatoes. They offer three ways to purchase thproduce. It can be bought at the Iowa City Farmers Market, at thefarm in Riverside, or distributed through their CSA program. TheCSA offers a box of fresh produce to be picked up weekly for 21

    weeks during the year. Participants pay $20 a week for a full sharin the program. Half shares can also be purchased. The weeks pduce is distributed to a drop-off site for participants to pick up.

    There are currently more than 60 CSAs in Iowa, and according tothe Iowa State Universitys extension office, that number is expectto increase rapidly. Sass program has been grown since its start i2005. Last years program had 27 participants, but this year Sasspects even more people to be interested. The produce is fresh anpicked the same day it is delivered, said Sass. The biggest complaint is they get too much, and they cant eat it all in a week. Sasputs his produce in a cooler once it is picked and before it gets deered so that none of the food loses sugar. Its all a matter of timinand how long it has been since it has been harvested, said Sass.

    Sass started his farm in 1997 selling pumpkins. The pumpkin patslowly transformed to a petting zoo, park and old-fashioned farmThey also sell a variety of preserves, antiques and crafts. He runsfarm with his wife, Sherry. The couple wanted to teach their grachildren the importance of growing their own food from rich Iowsoil. The Sasses also promote growing food for the daycare centeschools, and organizations they host during group visits. I think people are being more aware and health conscious, said Sass.They like the flavor of the fresh produce.

    Burlington farmers market vendor and urban gardener, ChrisGehringer also says that people are becoming more interested in eing local food. [It] contributes to our local economy, and keeps viable and sustainable, said Gehringer. One thing that everyboneeds is food, so if people will buy local food, then that money stin our community and it doesnt leave Iowa.

    Another benefit not available in traditional stores is that Gehringeand other vendors offer on-the-spot suggestions on how to cook thproduce they are selling, tailored to taste and ability of the custom

    Market Economy Discover the Frugality of Buying Local Food

    By Anna Wilson

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    Weve found theres a real disconnect in peoples desire to eat betterand their knowing how to use the produce. ey want to eathealthier, to cook greener meals, but when it comes down to it,most people dont know what to do with kohlrabi, said Roberts.Vendors, like Chris, can reel off recipe after recipe. And most of our CSAs provide a list of exciting options for what theyve pro-vided in their weekly box.

    Not all vendors sell their produce for less than grocery store prices,but most vendors say that buying local food is a healthier, bettertasting choice that is also better for the local community by keepingjobs and money local.

    Today, access to local food is easier than ever. Shoppers can go tofarmers markets, participate in CSAs, or even grow their own gar-dens, options that not only save money, but also reward shopperstaste buds.

    Spring 2009 www.EdibleIowa.com

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    Recession-proofing restaurantsLocal Chefs Cut Costs, not Flavor

    By Brian Morelli

    Spring 2009 www.EdibleIowa.com 13

    Times are tough, but some people are still setting a little somethingaside for a special night out.

    at's what David Wieseneck, chef and owner of Iowa City's Mot-ley Cow Cafe, is noticing. e Cow as locals affectionately call it still catches killer nights. Even in traditionally slower months likeFebruary, weekends remained strong. In better times, a Wednesday,

    ursday or even a Monday rush could push supplies to the limit. Itis hard to pinpoint exactly the cause and affect. e weather couldexplain some slow nights and the winter is dead in general. Still, it ishard to ignore the sour economy. It seems like people are beingmore careful with their "cappuccino money", Wieseneck said.

    "I look at the poor sales and you have to connect that to the econ-omy. But, he added, "I think in our community, which seems moreinsulated, there is just a sense of impending doom as opposed topeople actually feeling and experiencing the blow yet. People arebattening down the hatches.

    "Aside from eating out less during the week, they are spending lesswhen they go out. Wieseneck has noticed a drop in average ticketprice per customer. e uncertain times are forcing restaurant own-

    ers like Wieseneck to get a little more creative to stay accessible. Headded a pork shoulder sandwich to his dinner menu. At $9, this isabout half the price of the other entrees.

    A restaurants job is to serve and be part of the community, and if the community needs more options, that is the role Motley Cow will take on. " e purpose of the Motley Cow is to be a community restaurant," Wieseneck said.

    e scene at the Cow is becoming all too common, in Iowa andaround the nation. Restaurant industry research groups are noticingvarious trends in the way people are using their dining dollarsamidst the faltering economy.

    e NPD Group, a market research company based in New York,has noticed a number of changes about eating out. For example,parents aren't taking their kids out as much, particularly for dinner,they say. In fact dinner traffic is down in general. Lunch traffic is upthough, and Baby Boomers are eating out more, too. e 18-24 age-bracket is also down, but NPD says that is related to perceptionsthat restaurant eating is high calorie and less healthy. NPD also re-ports that people are opting for quick service over full-service restau-rants, seeking special deals and ordering lower price menu items tohelp cut costs.

    Technomic, a food service consultant based in Chicago, says thadiners are passing on pricier grub like beef in favor of less expeoptions like chicken. And, if they do buy a steak, they want a dicerning feature to justify the extra cost such as a better cut, agina seasoning rub. ey predict this will be the worst sales year forrestaurants since 1972, when the company began tracking sales.National Restaurant Association projects sales this year to increby about 2.5 percent over 2008, or an in ation-adjusted 1 percedecline. Revenue will hit $566 billion, they predict.

    "Consumers are cautious with their spending in the current economy and are cutting back on dining out to some extent, as well achanging their ordering patterns," said Annika Stensson, NRAs rector of media relations. "More than anything, they are seekingspecial offers and value deals at restaurants, like discounts for dat off-peak hours or days and happy hour specials, as well as takadvantage of rewards and loyalty programs. Quickservice restauare showing stronger performance than restaurants with higher ppoints, but many full-service restaurants are offering value specattract diners who are dining out on a budget."

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    Recession-Proofing (continued from pg 11)

    In the Des Moines area, chef and restaurateur Jeremy Morrow hasbeen noticing some of this. Morrow's downtown digs, Azalea,began experiencing a considerable drop in business in March of 2008. Morrow sees the higher end establishments, such as Azalea,being most at-risk from the economy. e economic situation hasmore than ever forced restaurant operators to pay closer attention tothe bottom line as much as any other aspect of the business, Mor-row said. It has also forced chefs and owners to be creative and opento changing concepts to include lower priced items such as pris xeor other menus that give people options of better value. Morrow sees optimism, too, though. He recently opened a new restaurantand bar called Town Hall Tavern in West Des Moines, which hehopes will nd a niche, bad economy or not. e concept is "A New American Tavern," serving contemporary takes on comfortand bar foods. "It is both a bar and restaurant, which gives peoplemultiple opportunities to visit the establishment. Despite the eco-nomic environment, people will continue to go out, but will tradethe $50 per person dinners for drinks, appetizers and sandwiches."

    Motley Cow Caf160 North Linn Street, Iowa City

    319.688.9177 www.MotleyCowCafe.com

    Azalea 400 Walnut Street, Des Moines

    515.288.9606 www.AzaleaDSM.com

    Town Hall Tavern1250 8th Street, Wes Des Moines

    515.267.1121 www.TownHall DSM.com

    14 www.EdibleIowa.com Spring 2009

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    edible iowa river valley Become an Edible Partner and watch your

    business (and Iowa) grow!

    Opporttunities are available for upcoming issues.Contact sales manager Rachel Morey @

    319.241.4442 or [email protected]

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    Edible ImbibablesBy Katie Roche

    Hub City Brewing Company Gloria and Brian Knocke farmed for over 30 years just ve miles east

    of historic Oelwein in a little town called Stanley. In 2007 they de-cided to get out of hog farming for health reasons and their hobby of making beer and wine suddenly became their profession. Brian, aformer teacher, was in contact with a former student whom he hadon the lookout for a brew system. His student found one. Used, andtherefore more affordable, but a lot bigger than what the Knockeswere looking for. However, they were still weighing the option of making wine instead of beer.

    e Knockes watched the good old farming state of Iowa take eas

    and successfully to wine production and more wineries were opeing every day. With only 4 hours to bid on the brew system, theKnockes had to decide whether to jump on the wine wave or plathe rebel. Ultimately, because it would be a family business, it wfamily decision. Beer it would be. It just felt like a better t.

    When the brewing equipment arrived in March of 2007, theKnockes made some major renovations to their property and we

    ready to brew by November. e hobby turned enterprise was packaged, shippedout and on sale by the holidays. Only twyears into the business and Hub City Brewery is already expanding. e namecomes from the heyday nickname of theCity of Oelweins railroad, a hub forthree major branches of the Chicago Gre

    Western Railway.

    For now, Iowa breweries like Hub City arenjoying success as Midwesterners demostrate their interest in drinking regionallyproduced beer. What was once an industdriven by the allure of the microbrew inow something more political, withdrinkers boasting that their favorite breware local, syncing with the green movemand giving it even more strength. Localbeer is so much in vogue that the muchmissed Star Beer in Dubuque reopened ifacility as the crowning historical jewel oDubuques Mississippi waterfront. Withmore Iowa breweries, wineries and a fewdistilleries opening up in the last few yeaHub City is among friends in a thriving idustry.

    Many Iowa brewers are already reachingyond state lines out of necessity. Hub Cihas the goal of becoming a regional brewBrian Knocke has been making the roundin Iowa, Wisconsin, Missouri, and Illinoi

    with hopes of adding Minnesota in the nefuture. When Brian is not out poundingthe pavement, hes at home with Gloriabrewing and bottling side by side with tholdest son and head brewmaster, BJ.

    Younger son Greg, out in California, wor

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    on their marketing and his friend Sonyl Nagali, the web designer for

    American Idol, does their graphic design.With only two full and three part time employees, Glorias nearly 80year old mother, Margaret March, was coming to help on bottlingdays. But now with the expansion from a 15 barrel system to a se-rious 60 barrel a day business, she has a lot more cookies to make.

    e matriarch of the family has taken to developing recipes, mostly baked goods, using Hub City beer to replace most or some of thewater. Her cookies are popular with the staff and visitors to thebrewery, who take the recipes and their six packs home to try.

    We've always been a fairly close family but now I can tease my mother that I get to pay her in beer. She doesnt drink, so its cheaplabor, jokes Gloria. And I tell my husband that he is the boss andIm his slave. e couple works long days, and as a whole the family is still getting adjusted to their routine and the closeness of runninga business together. e extended families come to help out whenthey have their big events.

    In addition to expanding their output, the 10 acre grounds at HubCity are also being redeveloped to include a better tasting room, andgrounds for music performance. Locals have already latched ontothe tasting room, happily keeping the Knockes well past their regularbusiness hours. If folks are there, they are open. On Saturdays thetasting room is packed with people sampling all the beers and pur-chasing beer by the glass or pitcher.

    As the variety of beer has expanded, so has business. Brewmaster BJKnocke is presently planning an apricot ale, a selection of seasonalbrews, and is also trying his hand at some sodas to be sold on site foryounger visitors and soda pop fans. e Brown Ale will stay on thecurrent roster with a new wheat beer recipe already being brewed.Any of the new brews that make the cut will most likely debut atHub Citys summer solstice party on June 20th. is free event willfeature three live music venues from 1-10PM, with their regularbeers on tap, and some special just for the day.

    While youre in Oelwein youll see that some of the local businessesare starting to carry Hub City brew. Sometimes its harder to getthe doors closest to you open to local fare, and so far only 2 restau-rants are carrying the beer. Besides Grandmas cookies, food is notserved at the brewery, except for special events, so the Knockes oftensend tour groups off to local restaurants that carry their brew. Itsthis kind cooperative cross marketing that can give a town or even aregion a taste all their own. Eventually the Knockes hope that theirbeer is synonymous with the Hub City that loaned them their name.

    e events they host on their Hub City acreage just might be thekey to oating to the top of the more localized market. Consum

    like to purchase experiences along with product. Even though bbrewing is less picturesque than the rolling hills of grapevines avineyard, breweries like Hub City are making up the difference pairing their beer with something better even than cheese: musicfun. As Hub City continues to work on different ways to draw pple to the brewery itself, Gloria says they are most concerned wquality product, and expanding at a pace that guarantees each nebeer is the best they have to offer. Hub City hasnt won any awyet, but then again they havent been able to keep the beer on thshelves long enough to enter any competitions.

    Hub City Brewing Company 11352 40th Street, Stanley

    319.283.7369Tasting Room Hours - (Labor Day through Memorial Day)

    Open Tue-Sat 10am-5pm - Closed Sunday and Monday Brewery Tours available by appointment only

    Grandma Marchs Golden Ale Bars cup shortening 2 cup our cup white sugar 2 tsp. baking powder

    cup brown sugar tsp. baking soda2 eggs tsp. nutmeg1 tsp. cinnamon tsp. allspice1 cup Hub City Golden Ale

    Cream together shortening, white sugar, brown sugar, and eggs Add our, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, all-spice, and Hub City Golden Ale.

    Pour in greased 9x13 pan. Bake at 350 for 20 to 25 minutes.

    Frosting cup butter 2 Tbps. Evaporated milk 2/3 cup sugar 1/3 cup Dark Karo Syrup2 cup powder sugar

    Bring the butter, sugarm milk and syrup to a boil. Cool and addPowder Sugar. Stir until smooth.

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    e Iowa Department of Agriculture and Land Stewardship keeps an op-to-the-minute listing of every farmers market in the state.anks to them, were able to bring you the latest listings to help you nd the market(s) in your area. With just a little work, most

    Iowans can shop at a farmers market every day of the season. To see details, visit the IDALS website listed at the end of this directory.Enjoy the fresh local food of Iowas farmers markets, and be sure to tell them you saw it in Edible Iowa River Valley

    AlbiaCorner of Main St. & WashingtonFri. 4-6 ; 6/5 - 9/25

    AlgonaCorner of Dodge & Nebraska St.Sat. 9-11:30 , 5/2 - 10/17;Wed 3-5:30 , 7/1 - 9/23

    AmanaFarmers Market Barn behind LehmBooks; Fri. 4- 8 ; 5/22 - 8/28

    AmesMain Street Station, 424 Main Street

    u. & Fri. 2-7 ; Sat. 8-3

    2801 Grand Ave.Wed. 3-6; Sat. 8-12; 5/2 - 10/31

    AnamosaCorner of Scott and Main Sts.Wed. 3-6; Sat. 7-11; 6/17 - 10/24

    AnitaS.E. corner of City Park, E. MainMon. & Fri. 4-6; 6/8 - 10/19;(Closed 9/7)

    AnkenyCorner of SW 3rd & SW Maple Sts.Sat. 8-12 ; 5/16-9/26 (Closed 7/11)

    AtlanticOrscheln parking lot, 1200 7th St. E.Sat. 9-11, 6/6 - 10/24; Tue. 5-7,6/ 9 - 10/20

    AudubonCity Park, east side

    u. 4:30-6:30; 6/11 - 10/8

    Baxter120 S Main St.Wed. 4-6:30; 6/24 - 9/23

    Belle Plaine7th Ave. & 13th St.,Fri. 5-7; 5/29 - 9/25

    BellevueGazebo on Riverview St.Sat. 7-11; 5/23 - 9/26

    BelmondCity Park, 201 2nd Ave NE

    u. 4:30-6:30; 6/4 - 10/8

    Bettendorf2117 State St. u. 2-6; 5/7- 10/29

    4500 Utica Ridge Road,Mon. 3-7; 5/4 -10/5 (Closed Sept. 7)

    Bloom eldCourtyard, north side of CourthouseSat. 8:30-11:30; 5/16 - 10/3

    BooneS. Story St. & Hwy. 30

    u. 3-6; 6/4 - 10/ 22

    Britt170 Main Avenue South Wed. 3:30-5:30; 5/13 - 10/14

    Buffalo CenterHwy 9 west of Drivers ChoiceRestaurant; ur. 3-6; 5/21 - 10/22

    Burlington3302 Agency St. Sat. 8-1; 5/2 - 10/31

    400 Front Streetu. 5-8; 5/7-10/29

    CalmarCalmar Depot; ur. 3-6; 6/4 - 8/27

    CamancheCity Park, Tues. 4-7

    CarrollCorner of Hwy. 30 & Carroll St. Wed. 3:30-6 ; Sat. 8-11; 6/10 - 10/3

    CascadeRiverview Park - 1st Ave W Sat. 8-11; 6/6 - 9/26

    Cedar FallsOverman Park on 3rd St.Sat. 8:30-12; 5/9 - 10/31(Closed 6/27)

    2302 W. 1st St. Wed. 3:30-5:30-;5/13 -10/7

    Cedar RapidsLot #44 - 8th Ave & 2nd St SETue. 4 - 6; Sat. 7:30 Noon5/2 10/24 (closed 6/6&20, 7/18,8/1&15, 9/5, 10/3)

    Downtown Cedar RapidsSat. 7:30-12; 6/6&20, 7/18, 8/1&15,9/5, 10/3

    Greene Square Park, 3rd Ave &5th St SE u. 4-6; 6/11 - 8/27

    Corner of Collins Rd & Council St NEMon., Wed. & Fri. 4-6; 5/1 - 10/23

    CharitonEast side of Chariton Square

    ur. 4-7; 5/28 - 9/24

    Charles City1405 S. Grand Avenue Wed. 3:30-6; Sat. 9-12; 5/16 - 10/24300 block of Main Street Wed. 3:30-6 & Sat. 9-12;5/16 - 10 24

    CherokeeRailroad Depot, 119 S. 4th Street

    u. 4-6:30; 6/4 - 9/24

    ChesterCity Park , ur. 1-4

    ClarindaEast side of Courthouse Square, Tue.2:30-5 ; Sat. 8-11:30 ; 6/9 - 10/27

    Clarion West side of County Court HouseSat. 10-12; 6/6 - 10/10

    Clear LakeCity Hall parking lot, 15 N. 6th St.Sat. 9-11:30 , 6/6 - 10/17

    ClintonCorner of Main Ave. & Roosevelt St. Wed. 4-6 ; Sat. 8-11 ; 6/30 - 10/31

    Columbus Junction125 E. Walnut StreetFri. 4:30-7 ; 5/22 - 10/9

    Coon Rapids4th & Main Street Wed. & Sat., 2-4 ; 7/11 - 10/3Coralville1513 7th St.Mon. & u. 5-8 ; 5/4 - 10/1(Closed 9/7)

    CorningCentral Park

    u. 4:30-6:30 ; 5/28 - 9/24

    CorrectionvilleOld High School, 512 5th StSat. 8:30-12; 6/6 - 10/31

    Council BluffsOmni Center; Kanesville & Main St.Sat. 8-1; 5/23 - 10/10

    CrescoSW 1st Ave. & 2nd St. W Tue. & Fri.; 2-5:30; 5/1 - 10/30

    CrestonMcKinley Park, shelter house near theplayground Mon. 4-6 ; 5/18 - 10/12

    DavenportNorth Park Mall,Hwy 61 & Welcome Way Wed. & Sat. 8 -12; 5/2 - 10/31

    421 West River Drive Wed. & Sat. 8-1; 5/2 - 10/24

    DecorahParking lot across from City Hall Wed. 3-6; Sat. 8-11;5/2-10/ 31

    Denison1st Avenue N & 15th Street

    u. 3-6 ; 6/25 - 10/22

    DeWittLincoln Park Mon. & u. 4-6 ; 6/1 - 10/5

    Des MoinesCourt Avenue & 4th StreetSat. 7-12; 5/2 - 10/31

    25th & University Wed. 4-7 ; 6/3 - 9/23

    3200 Delaware AvenueTue. 3-6 ; 6/2 - 9/29

    Dubuque14583 Old Highway Rd.Tue. & u. 3-5:30 ; 6/10 - 10/16

    City Hall, 11th - 13th Sts on Iowa St.Sat. 7-12; 5/2-10/24

    1001 Assisi Drive Wed. 3-7 ; 6/3 - 8/26

    DyersvilleCommerical Club Park (Hwy 136

    u. 2:30-6 ; 5/14 - 10/8

    DysartCity Park Tue. 5-7 ; 5/26 - 10/27

    EldoraNorth side of Courthouse Square

    u. 4-6 ; 5/14 - 10/8

    ElginCity Park, u. 5-6:30 ; 5/7 - 9/24

    ElmaElma Locker & Grocery lotTue. & Fri. 2:30-5:30

    EmmetsburgNorth Courthouse Square,10th St

    u. 12:30-5; Sat. 8-12; 6/18 -10/3

    Estherville1226 Central Ave.,

    u. 5-7, 7/2- 9/24; Sat. 8-11,

    6/6 - 10/10

    Evansdale3520 LaFayette St. Wed. 2:30-5:30 ; 6/3 - 10/14

    Fair eldCorner of Grimes & Main Wed. 3:30-7 ; Sat. 8-1; 5/2 - 10/29

    Forest CityPida parking lot, 616 Hwy 9 EastTue. & ur. 2-6 ; 5/26 - 10/8

    Fort DodgeCrossroads Mall, 1st Ave. S & 25Sat. 8:30-1, 5/23 - 10/24; Wed. 2-6 , 6/3 - 10/28

    Fort MadisonCentral Park, 9th & Avenue E

    u. 3:30-5:30 , 6/11 - 9/24

    Garner755 W. 3rd St.Sat. 10-1; 5/17 - 10/25

    Gladbrook2nd St. Tue. 5/26 - 10/6

    MarketWatch

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    Green eldSouth side of Courthouse Square

    u. 4-6 ; 6/4 - 9/24

    GrimesCorner of Jes & Hwy 44Mon. 4-7 ; 5/4 - 9/28

    GrinnellBroad St. between 4th & 3rd Ave.

    u. 3-6 ; 5/21 - 10/8;

    Sat. 10-12; 5/23 - 10/10

    Grundy CenterOn 7th Street, east of Courthouse

    u. 4:30-6:30 ; 6/5 - 9/24

    GuttenbergAlong the River between Goethe &Herder StreetsSat. 8-11:30 , 5/23 - 9/26

    Hampton1st St. NW & 1st Ave. NW Tue. 5-7 , 6/2 - 9/29;Fri. 5-7 ; 5/8 - 10/16

    HarlanSat. 8:30 -12; 6/27-12/24;Wed. 3:30-6, 7/8-9/23

    Harpers FerryHarpers Ferry Conservation Park Fri. 5-7 ; 6/5 - 10/2

    Hawarden13th St. & Avenue E

    u. 5-7 ; 7/2 - 9/24

    HiawathaGuthridge Park on 10th AvenueSun. 11-3; 4/19 - 10/25

    Hamburg2870 Hwy 275, Fri. 5-7; 6/9 - 10/9

    HumboldtDowntown at 617 Sumner Ave.Sat. 7:30-12; 6/14 - 10/31

    Ida GroveCity Park, Washington St.Fri. 2-6 ; 6/26 - 10/30

    IndependenceWapsipinicon MillSat. 8-12; 5/16 - 10/17

    IndianolaHwy 92 at Fairground west gateSat. 8-12; 6/6 - 10/31;Wed. 2-6 ; 7/1 - 9/23

    Iowa CityWashington & Van Buren Sts.Wed. 5:30-7:30 ;Sat. 7:30-11:30 ; 5/2 - 10/28

    Sycamore Mall Farmers MarketTue. 3-6:30; 5/5-10/ 27

    Iowa FallsSat. - 500 Blk Washington Ave.,8:30-11:30 ; Wed. - River Hills Mall4-7 ; 5/13 - 10/10

    JeffersonEast side of CourthouseTue. 4-6:30 ; 6/16 - 9/15

    JohnstonCity Hall parking lot,

    Tue. 3-7 ; 5/26 - 11/29

    KanawhaCity Park Mon. 3:30-5:30 ; 6/1 - 10/12

    Keokuk300 Main, Sat. 6:30-11 ; 5/16 - 9/26

    KeosauquaM&B Repair, Hwy 1 NorthTue. 3-6 ; 5/19 - 10/6

    Knoxville West side of Town SquareTue. 12-5 ; Sat. 8-12; 5/23 - 10/10

    Lake MillsCorner of US69 & 1st Ave

    u. 2:30-5 ; 5/7 - 10/22

    LeMarsOlson Cultural Event Center, 1stStreet NE Wed. 3-7 ; 7/1 - 9/23

    Bomgaars parking lot on Hwy 75 SSat. 8-12; 7/4 - 10/24

    Leon207 N. Main - Court House Square

    ur. 3-5 ; 7/9 - 10/1

    Lime SpringsCity Park, Sat. 8-1

    Lone TreeNorth Park, Tues. 3-7 ; 6/9 - 10/27

    Lucas Jct Highway 65 & 34 Wed. & Sat. 9-1 ; 5/30 - 9/26

    Mason City1631 - 4th St. SW,Mon.& Fri., 3 -6 ; 5/16 - 10/31

    Marshalltown2nd Ave. 1/2 block N of State St. Wed. 4-6 ; Sat. 8-11 ; 5/13 - 10/28

    103 E. Linn StreetFri. 12-6 ; Sat. 10-4 ; open year round

    ManchesterSouth Franklin & Delaware Sts.,Sat. 7-10 ; Tues 3-5 , 5/16 - 10/10

    Manson10th Avenue, east of stoplightMon. 4-6 ; 7/20 - 10/19 (Closed 9/7)

    MaquoketaCorner of West Platt & So. 2nd Sts.Sat. 7-12; 6/13 - 9/2

    Marion3375 - 7th Ave. Wed. 3-6 ; Sat. 8-11:30 ; 5/2 - 9/26

    Marne63 WashingtonFri. 4:30-7 ; 6/26 - 10/2

    Mason City100 S. Federal Ave.Tue. & Fri. 4-6 ; 6/6 - 10/24

    K-Mart parking lot - Hwy 122Tue. & Fri. 3-6 ; 5/8 - 10/23

    Monticello217 S. Maple Street Wed. 3:00-5:30;Sat. 8-12 ; 5/13 - 10/28

    Montrose203 N. First StreetTue. 4-6 ; 5/19 - 9/29

    MoraviaGazebo in NE corner of City Park,Fri. 6-8 ; 5/22 - 10/9

    Mount Vernon311 - 1st Street W

    u. 4-6 ; 5/7 - 10/8

    Mount PleasantMcMillan Park - Wright Fily Pavilion Wed. 4:30-6:30 andSat. 8:30-11; 5/16 - 10/17

    Muscatine

    Corner of Sycore & Mississippi Dr.Sat. 7:30-11:30 ; 5/2 - 10/31

    Wilson True Value, 1420 Park Ave.Tue. 3-6 ; 5/5 - 10/27

    New HamptonCorner of Main St & Chestnut Ave.Sat. 7-12; 6/20 - 10/3

    Newton200 Blk. of N. 5th Ave. W Tue. 3:30-6:30 ; 6/2 - 10/6

    North Liberty

    North parking lot of Community Center; Sun. 1-4 ; 5/17 - 10/25

    Norwalk4380 Wakonda DrirveFri. 4-7 ; 6/5 - 9/25

    OelweinLog Cabin Park, 1st Street SW Mon. 3-6 , Fri. 8-11 ; 5/15 - 10/23(Closed 9/7)

    Orange City Windmill Park, center of townTue. & u. 3-5 ;Sat. 9-11 ; 6/2 - 10/3

    OsageTown & Country PlazaSat. 9-11 , Wed. 2:45-5 ; 5/23 - 10/3

    OsceolaS.E. corner of Courthouse Square

    Tue. 12-4 ;Sat. 8-12; 5/30 - 10/17; (Closed 7/4)

    OskaloosaEast side of Town SquareTue. 4-6 ; 5/26 - 10/13

    110 D Street, Sat. 8-11 ; 5/30 - 10/17

    Ottumwa1110 Quincy Ave.; Wed. 3:30-6:30,Sat. 7:30-10:30; 5/28 - 10/29

    Pella603 Broadway u. 3-6 ; 4/30 - 10/22

    Perry1st & Willis at Caboose parking lot

    u. 4-6 ; 6/11 - 10/1

    Prairie CityGarden Square

    u. 4-6 ; 5/28 - 9/24

    PrimgharCourthouse Square, 1st & Hayes Sts.Fri. 9:30-11:30 ; 6/19 - 10/30

    Protivin

    City Park,Wed. 3:30-5:30

    Red eldCity Park picnic shelter

    u. 4-6; May - Oct.

    Red OakNorth Side of Square

    u. 4:00 - 6:00 p.m.; Sat. 9-12 ;5/14 - 10/10

    RicevilleHwy 9 by Post Office, Sat. 8-1

    Riverside

    Doc ompson Ave Wed. 3:30-6; 6/3-10/7

    Rockwell CityEast side of the downtown square

    ur. 3:30-6 ; 6/11 - 10/22

    Rolfeu. 4-6:30 ; June 7/25-10/8

    St. AnsgarCorner of 4th & Mitchell Street

    u. 4 - 5:30 p.m.; 6/4 - 9/3

    SheldonPamida parking lot on Hwy 18Mon. 4:30-6:30;Fri. 10:30-12:30; 5/8-9/7

    Shellsburg Wed. 5-7:00

    Shenandoah500 W. Clarinda Ave. Wed. 2:30-5.; Sat. 8-12; 5/30-10/2

    Sibley400 blk. of 9th StreetSat. 8-1; end of June to mid-Oct.

    Silver CityEast side of Main St, alongRailroad Ave. Sat. 8-11; 5/23-9/2

    Spencer901 11st Street SW Wed. & Sat. 7:30-12; 5/16-10/31;

    Spirit LakeDickinson County Fairgrounds Wed. & Sat. 7:30-12; 6/6 - 10/17

    Springville304 Broadway, behind City HallTue. 4-6; 6/2-8/2

    State Center100 Block of West Main St.Fri. 5- 8p.m.; 5/8 -8/28

    Storm LakeDowntown - Court House SquareSat. 8-12; 6/13 -10/10;

    urs. 4-6 p.m. 7/9 -9/17

    Strawberry Point

    Inger Park - Park Street Wed. 4-6; 5/27 - 9/30

    Stuart Wed. 4-6:30;5/20-10/14

    Swea CityReynold's Park Fri. 3 - 5:30; 5/1 -10/9

    TiptonSouth of Courthouse on 4th St.Sat. 7:30-11 ; 5/16 - 10/3

    North side of Court House

    u. 4-6; 5/21-9/24ToledoEast side of Courthouse SquareFri. 5- 7:00; 5/1-10/30

    TraerHwy. 8 & 63 Wed. 4-6; May 6 - Oct. 28

    TripoliSwimming pool parking lotFri. 4.-6; 6/5-9/18

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    UnionUnion City Park at 406 Center StreetMon. 4-6, 6/22-9/28

    Urbana204 W. Wood StreetSat. 9-11; 5/23-10/24

    UrbandaleMerle Hay Mall south lotMon. 4-7; 6/2-10/13

    VanHorn/Newhall areaOn Hwy 30 east of Hwy 218Fri. 3-6; 5/29 -10/16

    VintonVinton Depot, 612 2nd Ave.

    u. 5-7; 6/4 -9/24

    VolgaHwy C2W & Washington StreetFri. 4-6-; 6/5 -9/25

    WashingtonCity Square

    u. 5-7:30, 5/7-10/29

    WaterlooCrossroads Shopping Center

    u. 3:30-6 ; 5/7 - 10/29

    Kimball Ave. & Ridgeway Rd.,Tue. 3:30-6 ; 5/5 - 10/27Sat. 8-12; 5/2 - 10/24

    E. 4th St. & Park Sat. 8-12; 5/2 - 10/24

    4000 University Avenueu. 4-7; 5/21-10/29

    Waukee6th Street & Ashworth Drive Wed. 4-7; 6/3-9/23

    Waukon Allamakee County FairgroundsMon. 4- 6 ; 6/1 10/5

    Waverly1st Ave SE between 2nd & 3rd Sts.,Sat. 9-12; 5/2-10/10;Tues. 3-6; 6/2-10/6

    Webster CityCity Plaza, 400 Second St.Sat. 8-11.; 6/6-10/7; 1st

    urs. of each month 6/1-10/31, 5-7

    West Des Moines100, 200 & 300 blocks on 5th St.

    u. 4-8; 5/7-10/1

    West Union407 W BradfordTue. 3-5& Fri. 3-5:30; 5/1-10/30

    WhittemoreTimes Square

    ur. 6/ 4 -8/27

    WintersetTown SquareSat. 7:30-11 , 5/16 - 10/3

    Please remember that these markets are subject tomany variables. Weather, business, season and holidays can all have an impact. To be sure of a

    market, check the detailed listings at the IDALS website:

    http://idalsdata.org/IowaData/farmerMar-ketDirectoryReportHTML.cfm

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    The 99By Kurt Michael Friese

    A Confluence of Flavors in Lee County e Mississippi River meanders westward for a stretch, just before it

    is joined by the Des Moines River as it leaves Iowa on its way to theDelta. is is Lee County, the southernmost point of Iowa, full of hidden food gems, classic river town architecture, and surprisingwine and beer.

    In the tiny village of Franklin, just south of the picturesque townhall, stands one of the last 19th century stone homes in Iowa. Builtin 1840, with an extension added on in 1860, it now serves as theChristian Herschler District Winery and Stagecoach Stop. Mike andLori Jarvis have painstakingly restored the beauti-ful old farmhouse, and the cellar serves as a tast-ing room and museum to the old ways. atrestoration literally uncovered a 150-year oldrecipe for wine, which helped inspire them tomake a go of the winery idea.

    ey make wine with old world methods from avariety of fruits in addition to native grapes likeConcord and Catawba, and age them in very oldoak barrels that Mike bought from a man namedWalter Krauter. Mr. Krauter was a winemakerbefore he passed on, and Jarvis found 60-year oldwine in those barrels, some of which he still hasin bottles. He cant sell it though, because hedoesnt know what it is. Ask nicely and you may get a taste. Its reminiscent of a good olorososherry, oxidized and raisinated, with a surprisingdepth of character.

    Jarvis is also the founder of the Scenic RiversWine Trail, which spans nearby portions of Iowa,Illinois and Missouri with fteen unique winer-ies.

    e Herschler Winery was pro led in these pagesonce before, back in the winter of 2007, as wasKathys Pumpkin Patch, a delightful farmstand

    and one of many youll nd along this stretch of US 2 during the season. e highway connectsFort Madison with Donnelson, which curiously share the duties of county seat between them.Donnellson plays host to the oldest county fair inIowa, this year it runs July 8th-13th. Make sureto go to the fairs Blue Ribbon Diner to tastelocally-grown lamb sandwiches.

    ere is a diner in the classic sense in Fort Madi-son, right across from the recreated fort that gave

    the town its name. Not surprisingly, its called Jake & Walts ForDiner, and if you dare you can tackle the WallyBurger, a full pouof beef smothered with sauted onions and mushrooms for a me$7.50, served in a classic all steel diner, complete with built-inbarstools and a fully-tattooed short-order cook. No retro re-cre-ation, e Fort Diner is the real thing.

    Just up river (east) of the diner is the Lost Duck Brewery, a plactakes its name from the confused waterfowl who lose there waying migration as the river turns west. Many of the brews are nam

    Spring 2009 www.EdibleIowa.com 21

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    for their feathered friends, like Pintale Pale Ale, Canvasback Blonde,and Pelican Porter.

    Around the corner from there is the Ivy Bakeshop. An institution inFort Madison, Ivy serves up made-from scratch fare including amaz-ing pies worth the drive just for them.

    Down Highway 61, at the con uence of the Des Moines and Mis-sissippi Rivers is Keokuk, named for the Sac tribal chief who is

    buried there, by a monument erected to him by the Daughters of the American Revolution. is may seem incongruous except thatKeokuk was best known as a chief who cooperated with the US gov-ernment, something that made him less than popular with nearby tribes like the Black Hawks, and led to his tribe being pushed fur-ther and further west.

    Keokuk is one town where strapping on the old feedbag is highly encouraged, and mainstays like the Hawkeye, Ogos and the Cellarmake it easy to do. ere are beautiful views of the river, lookingeast into Illinois and south or even west into Missouri, and theNumber 19 Lock and Dam is a great spot to watch the barges.

    For a treat the kids are sure to enjoy, call ahead to visit Muddy Creek Goat Farm, where they raise the fascinating and adorableNigerian Dwarf goats for milk, show and pets.

    A trip to Lee County is the perfect choice to get a true avor of his-toric Iowa, and leaving hungry is not an option.

    If You GoChristian Herschler District Winery and Stagecoach Stop

    Mike & Lorianne Jarvis6th & Green Streets, Franklin

    319.835.9432Open year-round, 9am-5pm, closed Tue-Wed

    Jake & Walts Fort Diner Jake Greenwald

    801 Avenue H, Fort Madison319.372.1949

    Lost Duck Brewing Company 723-725 Avenue H, Fort Madison

    319.372.8255Hawkeye Restaurant

    105 North Park Drive, Keokuk 319.524.7549

    www.HawkeyeRestaurant.comOgos Restaurant & Buffet

    Kevin and Lori Gregory 3753 Main, Keokuk

    319.524.7300

    e Cellar29 South 2nd Street, Keokuk 319.524.4040

    Muddy Creek Goat Farm2417 Carbide Lane, Keokuk

    319.524.1535 www.MuddyCreekGoats.com

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    Behind Closed DoorsBy Rob Cline

    Josh Shambergers Fridge is Geared for Training

    Josh Schambergers quick summation of whats inside his refrig-erator: Nothing but juice and sippy cups.

    Its an exaggeration, of course, but not an enormous one. Josh,who has been the president of the Iowa City/Coralville AreaConvention and Visitors Bureau for nine years, and his wife Jesshave two young boys and the couple loves cycling. Taken to-gether, thats a recipe for a fridge full of liquid.

    Ive known Josh since I first joined the staff of Hancher Audito-rium at the tail end of 2001. Josh had recently been the key fig-ure in the launch of the Johnson County Cultural Alliance. Insurprisingly short order I found myself on the board.

    There followed an odd couple of years during which an evenmore surprising number of people mistook me for Josh (notably,no one ever mistook Josh for me). Because his stature in thecommunity has been on a steady upward trajectoryhes beencentral to ventures ranging from Herky on Parade to TheStories Projectfewer people make that mistake these days.Still, I have a handy-dandy list of easy ways to tell us apart.

    The most recent addition: Josh chooses to ride a bicycle acrossthe state of Iowa with other like-minded enthusiasts. I choose tolet the tires on my bike go flat.

    Its cycling season and were in training, Josh explained as thebright light of the fridge illuminated the collection of colorfulbottles. We always have a lot of juice and waterWe have hisand hers there.

    For Josh: acai-blueberry-pomegranate and lemonade Vitaminwa-ter. For Jess: Propel.

    Four-year-old Garrisons taste in beverages is represented by Juicy Juice and Horizon Organic Vanilla Milk. One suspects hemight also enjoy the Simply Lemonade which, according toJoshs father, is an excellent elixir for warding off kidney stones.

    At the time of my visit, there was also a lone can of Asian TasteCoconut Juice.

    Thats from my Puerto Rico days, said Josh, who grew up in amilitary family, I fell in love with coconut early. I used to drink it right out of the coconut.

    Garrison may not have easy access to coconuts, but hes devoped some early healthful habits, as well.

    Garrison is huge into vegetables and fruit, said his dad,pointing out the produce in the refrigerator. He loves kiwi,hes big into carrots, and he loves grapefruit. Hes a little rar

    Lurking in the back of the refrigerator was a box of Pillsbur

    Easter cookies. Garrison picked them out when he spotted thbunny on the box, but my visit was post-Easter and the cookremained unmade.

    A Kinder Riegel Chocolate Stick ofered a somewhat more exotic swetreat. Its kind of like a GermanKitKat, Josh explained. The choclate comes courtesy of Joshsyounger brothers girlfriend wholives in Germany.

    The Schambergers are avowed fanof the Miller Familys jams and prserves which are made in Kalona.During my visit, a jar of raspberry

    rhubarb jam held down a spot on the top shelf, but Josh saysthe family enjoys several varietiesapple butter, strawberryrhubarb, raspberry preservesand often sends jars to familymembers in Arizona.

    Josh and Jesswho works for Goodwill Industrieseach hademanding schedules and family meals can be a challenge.Buitoni three cheese tortellini was one quick option in the refrigerator and the freezer held a box of Morningstar Farms Gden Veggie Patties that Jess enjoys. Ground turkey, also fouin the freezer, tends to replace ground beef in most of the failys dishes.

    The freezer was currently bereft of Joshs favorite organicspinach and feta frozen pizza, an item he says he eats a coupof times a week. It did hold some Nestle Eskimo Pies, for when Garrison is really good.

    When they do have time to cook, Josh likes to fire up the gr

    Jess is avery goodcook....She isntafraid toget after

    just aboutanything.

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    I love grilling fish, he said, detailing a marjoram, white wine,and sugar glaze that he serves up on grilled salmon.

    Jess is a very good cook, and she cooks just about anything.She isnt afraid to get after just about anything, Josh said. Forthe time being, however, the schedule just doesnt allow for asmuch cooking as they might enjoy.

    The youngest member of the family, seven-month-old Oliver,doesnt yet lay claim to much of the refrigerators real estate. A kitchen cupboard holds the staples of a little ones diet. Onesuspects, however, that he already has his eye on his bigbrothers Eskimo Piesand maybe the kiwi, too.

    Editors Note: Do you know someone whose fridge you think we should raid? Suggestions are always welcome at

    [email protected]

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    The Last WordBy Kurt Michael Friese

    Slow Money It was November of 2007 and I was at the International Congressof Slow Food in Puebla. Mexico. ere was important work to bedone, to be sure, but I had comemostly for the food and the Mez-cal.

    Speaker after speaker would won-der across the rostrum, some quitemoving, a few less than memo-rable. en a man named Woody Tasch stepped up and asked a sim-ple question about the expansion

    of the Slow ethic. ere is now aSlow Travel movement, Slow Liter-ature, even Slow Sex (who couldoppose that?). A venture capitalistby profession, Tasch wondered, where was Slow Investing?

    e industrialization of food hadbrought us the onslaught of fastfood chains and the concomitantexplosion of our waistlines and ourhealth care costs. Had rampant in-

    vesting, with pro t as the sole mo-tive, had a parallel effect on ourportfolios and our economy?

    His musings stayed with me wellafter the conference in Puebla, and just a few short months later thehousing bubble burst. A few months after that, Wall Street imploded. Remembering his speech Iturned back to Mr. Tasch to discover that he had just released abook, Inquiries Into the Nature of Slow Money: Investing as if Food, Farms and Fertility Mattered (Chelsea Green, 2008). Here,

    perhaps, were the answers I sought. And they are there, though as the title implies they are not quick

    xes. Rather the book is a guide for bringing investing back downto earth. No venture capitalist myself, the book brought up a few questions, so I called Mr. Tasch to seek the answers.

    First and foremost I wanted to know how his ideas of restorativeeconomics could bene t the larger, overall economy in light of thecurrent global recession.

    We know what hasnt worked, he told me, But we dont know whats broken or how badly. Perhaps whats broken is

    industrialization.

    So how do we x it? I asked

    We know how to build from bottom up, even if we dontknow how to x from the topdown. Part of the recipe, andlove that he called it a recipe, starting to move in a new dire

    tion. Not all of us with all ourmoney, but many of us withsome of our money. Tasch cotends that we need more balanand integration, and that modemoves could have signi cant pact.

    Tasch mentioned the book thamere tenth-of-a-percent of theUS Department of Agriculturebudget is earmarked for sustaiable agriculture. So I asked hif he thought that it might im-prove under new Secretary (anformer Iowa Governor) Tom Vsack.

    I dont know, he told me. Poicy is imponderable. But Id l

    to be able to catalyze change in this area, in regionalization of thfood system. Support small enterprises and nd connections.

    Taking a more philosophical turn toward the end of the book, Tanotes, Poetry is the portal through which capital can return.

    When I pointed out that my high school Economics teacher wouhave read that and written him off as a hippie-anarchist whackjohe responded with a sound refutation of the left brain.

    Poetry is a way of saying enough of that that expertise almokilled us. Tasch believes in EF Schumachers meta-economic vues: Small is beautiful. But this does not mean these ideas are apanacea. ere is, after all, human nature to contend with, Taschsays. Organized capital is a start.

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