Journal of Saudi Chemical Society (2016) 20, 178–184

King Saud University

Journal of Saudi Chemical Society

www.ksu.edu.sawww.sciencedirect.com

ORIGINAL ARTICLE

Dyeing of UV irradiated cotton and polyester

fabrics with multifunctional reactive and disperse

dyes

* Corresponding author. Tel.: +92 41 9200037/334 0194537.

E-mail address: shahidadeelchemist@gmail.com (S. Adeel).

Peer review under responsibility of King Saud University.

Production and hosting by Elsevier

1319-6103 ª 2013 Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. on behalf of King Saud University.

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jscs.2012.12.014

Ijaz Ahmad Bhattia, Shahid Adeel

b,*, Sajida Parveena, Mohammad Zuber

c

a Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad 38040, Pakistanb Department of Chemistry, Government College University, 38000 Faisalabad, Pakistanc Department of Applied Chemistry, Government College University, 38000 Faisalabad, Pakistan

Received 3 July 2012; accepted 24 December 2012Available online 17 January 2013

KEYWORDS

Cotton;

Colourfastness properties;

Disperse dye;

Dyeing;

Polyester;

Reactive dye

Abstract The dyeing behaviour of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics using multifunc-

tional reactive and disperse dyes has been investigated. The plain, woven, mercerized, bleached,

cotton and polyester fabrics were exposed to UV radiation (180 w, 254 nm) for 30, 60, 90 and

120 min. Dyeing was performed using irradiated fabric with a dye solution of un-irradiated reactive

and disperse/azo dyes. The dyeing parameters such as, temperature, time, pH and salt concentration

have been optimized. The colour strength values of dyed fabrics were evaluated by comparing irra-

diated and un-irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics in CIE Lab systems using spectra flash SF600.

Finally ISO standard methods were employed to observe the effect of UV radiation on fastness

properties. It was found that UV radiation has a potential to improve the colour strength values

of cotton and polyester fabrics by using reactive and disperse dyes.ª 2013 Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. on behalf of King Saud University.

1. Introduction

Love of colour is an instinct and every individual has his ownchoice and liking. The choice of beautiful fascinating colour re-

flects the aesthetic sense of humans that varies. Synthetic col-ours are used in the clothes we wear, in paints, plasticarticles, in a wide range of multicoloured printed materials

such as posters, magazines and newspapers, in photographs,cosmetics, ceramics and on television and film. Thus dyes aresuch coloured substances which are capable of imparting theircolour to the matrix (Shukla, 1992).

Synthetic dyes are a class of highly coloured organic sub-stances, primarily utilized for tinting textiles that attach them-selves to the substances by forming a covalent bond during the

application process. The use of natural dyes in textiles waseliminated since synthetic dyes give a variety of reproducibleshades and colours (Deo and Desai, 1999).

Reactive dyes are the best choice for dyeing of cellulosic fi-bers and coloring at home or in the art studio. These dyes arecoloured compounds that contain functional groups that react

with OH, SH and NH2 groups present in textile fibres. Fixa-tion occurs in the fibre under alkaline conditions by forming

Dyeing of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics with multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes 179

a covalent bond between carbon atom of a dye molecule andOH, NH, SH etc. groups present in the fibres (cotton, wool,silk, nylon, etc.) (Bahi et al., 1992).

Disperse dyes are synthetic chemical constituents whichhave a very low water solubility in their dispersed colloidalforms and are capable for dyeing and printing the hydrophobic

fabrics. They are usually applied from a dye bath as dispersionby a direct colloidal absorption. Disperse dyes have low solu-bility in water, but they can interact with the polyester chains

by forming dispersed particles. Their main use is the dyeing ofpolyesters, and they find minor use for dyeing cellulose ace-tates and polyamides (Broadbent, 2001).

Cotton cellulose is highly crystalline in nature and well ori-

ented and has a long and rigid molecular structure. The b-1,4-Dglucopyranoses are the principle building blocks of a cottoncellulose chain and are linked by 1,4-glucodic bonds. There

are three hydroxyl groups attached to each anhydro glucoseunit. The large number of hydroxyl groups readily formshydrogen bonds with water and are therefore responsible for

the hydrophilic nature of the cellulose fibre (Burkinshaw,1990). Due to the presence of hydroxyl groups and the chainconformation, there are possibilities for the formation of many

bonds of the dye and fabrics (intermolecular and intra molec-ular) (Hsieh, 2007).

The name polyester refers to the linkage of several mono-

mers (esters) within the fibre. Polyester is a long chain polymerchemically composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester anda dihydric alcohol and a terephthalic acid.

Figure 1 Effect of UV irradiation on the dyeing of irradiated cotton

Various treatments such as UV, ultrasonic and gammaradiation are being used to improve the colour strength andfastness properties of dyed fabric (Fazal et al., 2012; Bhatti

et al., 2012a). Limited study has been performed on the effectof radiation treatment in order to evaluate the dyeing charac-teristics of fabric using natural as well as synthetic dyes. An

alternative approach has recently been developed by usingUV radiation to modify the fabric surface while leaving thebulk textile unaffected (Shao et al., 1997). Surface fibres must

either absorb UV radiation directly or a suitable photo initia-tor must be applied to produce a large number of highly reac-tive radicals when the textile surface is exposed to UV (Hocker,2002). Surface modification is particularly useful on natural fi-

bres such as wool and cotton synthetic colourants (Millington,2000; Adeel et al., 2013).

For the present study we have an aim to improve the colour

strength and colourfastness properties of UV irradiated cottonand polyester fabrics dyed with multifunctional reactive anddisperse dyes, respectively.

2. Materials and methods

2.1. Sample preparation and irradiation

Patches of grey cotton fabric (10 · 10 cm) were procured from

‘‘Lal Mill’’ Faisalabad and subjected for bleaching. H2O2 andsodium hydroxide were used each 2 ml for 10 g cotton fabriccontaining (1:50) M:L. Bleached cotton fabric and polyester

fabrics were exposed to UV radiation source of 254 nm;

and polyester fabric using un-irradiated reactive and disperse dye.

180 I.A. Bhatti et al.

180 w for 30, 60, 90 and 120 min fromUniversity of AgricultureFaisalabad, Pakistan (Shahid et al., 2012). The control cottonand polyester fabric was also used for comparative study.

2.2. Optimization of different dyeing conditions

In order to optimize the dyeing parameters, dyeing was carried

out at different time intervals 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 min. To ob-serve the effect of pH, dyeing was carried out at different pHvalues (6, 7, 8, 9 and 10) (Ji et al., 2009). In another experiment

dyeing of irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics was carriedout to evaluate the effect of salt/dispersing agent concentrationusing different concentrations of 2%, 4%, 6%, 8% and 10%.

To observe the effect of temperatures dyeing was carried out at

Figure 2 Effect of dyeing temperature on the dyeing of irradiated co

dye.

Figure 3 Effect of salt concentration on the dyeing of irr

different temperatures (50, 60, 70, 80 and 90 �C) (Ruchi andRupainwar, 2011).

2.3. Evaluation of quality of dyed fabrics

Finally all the dyed patches using un-irradiated and irradiatedfabric were investigated using Spectra flash (SF 600), at Qual-

ity Assurance and Quality Control Laboratory of Noor Fati-ma Textile (Pvt) Faisalabad, Pakistan. The effect of UVradiation on colourfastness properties such as colour fastness

to light, washing and rubbing was determined. Standard meth-ods such as ISO 105-CO3 for washing fastness, ISO 105 X-12for rubbing fastness and ISO 105-BO2 for light fastness were

applied (Bhatti et al., 2012b; Adeel et al., 2013).

tton and polyester fabric using un-irradiated reactive and disperse

adiated cotton fabric using un-irradiated reactive dye.

Dyeing of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics with multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes 181

3. Results and discussion

Results of fabrics dyed with un-irradiated reactive and dispersedyes are shown in Fig. 1 which reveals that irradiated fabric

dyed for 90 min has a maximum affinity for dye substrate toattach on it as compared to un-irradiated fabrics. The fabricirradiated for 90 min shows even better colour strength. The

reason for this might be the oxidation of cellulose into carbox-ylic acid upon exposure of cellulose to UV radiation (Michaeland El-Zaher, 2005). The UV treatments of cellulose fibre cre-ate spaces between fibres which imbibe more dye and as a re-

sult the interaction for dyeing cellulosic fibre becomes moresignificant. The dye molecule rushes rapidly on the fabricand as a result we got a darker shade on irradiated fabric sam-

ples. The more colour strength might also be due to photomodification of the fabric, which causes conversion of cellulosemoieties into carboxylic acid that has more affinity for dye

substrate (Foldvary et al., 2003). Hence optimum time for irra-diating cotton and polyester fabrics is 90 min.

Figure 4 Effect of dispersing agent on the dyeing of irrad

Figure 5 Effect of pH on the dyeing of irradiated cotton and p

The dyeing of cotton and polyester fabric is temperaturedependent. Results shown in Fig. 2 reveal that the colourstrength of the dyed fabric with reactive and dispersed dyes

at different temperatures is significant. Rate of dyeing in-creases with increasing temperature. Increase in temperaturecauses more dye particles to rush rapidly on the fabric (Takacs

et al., 2001). Colour strength values increased up to 70 �C forirradiated cotton fabric dyed with un-irradiated reactive dye.Further increase in temperature causes decrease in colour

strength. This might be due to the reasons that at low temper-ature insoluble impurities get maximum chances to sorb on thephoto modified fabric and at much higher temperature causehydrolysis of dye molecules into fragments, which results in

low colour strength as well as dull and un-even shades. Whilepolyester fabric was dyed with disperse dye the maximum col-our strength value was obtained at 100 �C, because disperse

dyes imparted darker shades at high temperature conditions.Polyester fabric is hydrophobic and compact, it cannot beswollen in cold state and negligible water is imbibed in fibre.

iated polyester fabric using un-irradiated disperse dye.

olyester fabric using un-irradiated reactive and disperse dye.

Table 1 Effect of UV radiation on colour fastness properties

of irradiated cotton fabric dyed by using un-irradiated reactive

yellow dye.

Parameter Dyeing conditionsLFWFRubbing fastness

Dry RFWet RF

UV-irradiation (min) 0 3–43 3–4 3

30 3–43–4 3–4 4

60 3–43–4 3–4 4

90 4–54–5 4–5 4–5

Dyeing temperature (�C) 60 3–43–4 3–4 3–4

70 3–43–4 4 3–4

80 4–54–5 4–5 3–4

90 3–43–4 3–4 4

100 3–43–4 3–4 3–4

Salt concentration (g/L) 2 4–53–4 3–4 4

4 3–43–4 4 3–4

6 3–43–4 3–4 3–4

8 3–43–4 4 3–4

10 4–54–5 3–4 4–5

12 3–43–4 4 3–4

pH 6 3–43–4 3–4 3–4

7 3–43–4 3 3–4

8 3–43–4 3–4 3–4

9 4–54–5 4–5 3–4

10 3–43–4 3–4 4

Time (min) 30 4 4 3–4 4–5

45 4 3–4 3–4 3–4

60 4–54–5 4.5 4–5

75 3–43–4 3–4 3–4

90 3–43–4 4.5 3–4

LF: light fastness; WF: wash fastness; RF: rubbing fastness.

182 I.A. Bhatti et al.

Fibre structure is opened by raising the temperature above100 �C. In this way fibre macromolecules vibrate vigorouslyand superior exhaustion of dye is achieved (Al-Degs et al.,

2008). Optimum temperature for dyeing of irradiated cottonusing un-irradiated reactive dye is 70 �C while for dyeing ofirradiated polyester using un-irradiated polyester fabrics it is

100 �C.Data displayed in Fig. 3 demonstrate that dyeing using so-

dium chloride as an exhausting agent gives better results.

When salts are added to the dye bath, they might try to neu-tralize to reduce the negative charges of fibre, thereby facilitat-ing the approach of the dye molecules to within the range ofthe hydrogen bond formation or the formation of other bonds

between the dye and the fibre (Grifoni et al., 2011). Colourstrength values indicate that dyeing in the presence of NaClimparts darker shades. It is found that irradiated cotton fabric

dyed with un-irradiated reactive dye using sodium chloride10 g/L is darker in shades and shows higher colour strength.In the case of irradiated polyester fabric at much high concen-

tration of dispersing agent low colour strength values are ob-tained. Colour strength increase up to a concentration of 6g/L then further increasing concentration, decrease in colour

strength (Fig. 4). This is because much higher concentrationof dispersing agent creates maximum and permanent spacesbetween fibres and there is difficulty of dye to retain on fabricfor maximum time period. Hence optimum salt concentration

for dyeing of irradiated cotton is 10 g/L and optimum concen-tration of dispersing agent is 6 g/L.

Dyeing of irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics is much

dependent on dyeing media. As the condition becomes basicin dyeing with reactive dye, the colour strength values increasemore drastically. So basic conditions facilitate the dyeing con-

dition of reactive dyes, hence selected pH is 9 for reactive dyeson cotton fabric. High concentration of electrolyte plays animportant role in increasing high colour strength (Mauthuku-

mar et al., 2004) while for polyester fabric dyeing with dispersedyes the maximum colour strength was at pH 7 (Fig. 5), thereason behind this is that disperse dyes are stable at neutralpH but readily hydrolysed in acids and alkalis.

Figure 6 Effect of dyeing time on the dyeing of irradiated cotton and

Dyeing time also affects the colour strength values of irra-diated cotton and polyester fabric dyed with un-irradiatedreactive and disperses dye. By increasing dyeing time, colour

strength values increases more and darker shades are obtained.

polyester fabric by using un-irradiated reactive and disperse dye.

Table 2 Effect of UV radiation on colour fastness properties

of irradiated polyester fabric dyed by using un-irradiated

disperse blue dye.

Parameter Dyeing conditionsLF WFRubbing fastness

Dry RFWet RF

UV-irradiation (min) 0 3–43 3–4 3

30 3–43–4 3–4 4

60 3–43–4 3–4 4

90 4–54–5 4–5 4–5

Dyeing temperature (�C) 60 3–43–4 3–4 3–4

70 3–43–4 4 3–4

80 4–54–5 4.5 3–4

90 3–43–4 3–4 4

100 4–54–5 4 4–5

Dispersing agent (g/L) 2 4–53–4 3–4 4

4 3–43–4 4 3–4

6 4–54–5 4 4–5

8 3 3–4 4 3–4

10 4–53–4 3–4 3–4

12 3 3–4 4 3–4

pH 6 3–4 3–4 3–4

7 4–54–5 4.5 4

8 3–43–4 3–4 3–4

9 3–43–4 3–4 4

10 3–44 3 3–4

Time (min) 30 4 4 3–4 4–5

45 4 3–4 3–4 3–4

60 3–43–4 3–4 4

75 3–43–4 4–5 3–4

90 4–54–5 4–5 4–5

LF: light fastness; WF: wash fastness; RF: rubbing fastness.

Dyeing of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics with multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes 183

Fig. 6 indicates a gradual increase in colour strength values byincreasing dyeing time up to 60 min. Hence optimum dyeingtime for irradiated cotton and irradiated polyester is 60 min

using un-irradiated reactive and disperse dyes.The rating results for colour fastness to light, washing and

rubbing are given in Tables 1 and 2. It is revealed that under

optimum conditions of temperature, time and pH and salt,irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics dyed with un-irradiatedreactive and disperse dyes give acceptable colour fastness prop-erties. Good colour fastness properties are observed due to the

presence of benzene rings in reactive and disperse dye mole-cules that show more affinity towards irradiated fabric andresistance towards agencies such as detergent, heat, light and

rubbing (Adeel et al., 2013). The evaluation of the colour fast-ness properties of dyed fabrics shows that dye molecules uponexposure to light remain stable on the photo modified surface

of the cotton and polyester fabrics and offer less resistance todetach (Taylor et al.,2001).

The rating results shown in Tables 1 and 2 regarding colour

fastness properties demonstrated that UV irradiation had theability to modify the surface of the fabric, which could im-prove the rating of fastness properties.

4. Conclusion

UV irradiation treatment has improved the colour strengthvalues of the irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics by the

application of reactive and disperses dye. It is observed thatgood colour strength and fastness properties could be obtainedif irradiated cotton (90 min) is dyed at 70 �C for 60 min using

media of pH 7 in the presence of 10 g/L of NaCl as exhaustingagent using un-irradiated reactive dyes as compared to dyeingof irradiated polyester (90 min) at 100 �C for 60 min using dye-

ing media of pH 10 in the presence of 6 g/L of dispersing agentusing un-irradiated disperse dyes. Thus UV radiation can besuccessfully applied to enhance the colour fastness properties

as well as colour strength without harming the physical char-acteristics of other fabrics such as wool and silk using otherclass of dyes.

Acknowledgements

We are thankful to Mr. M. Abbas, Director Harris, Dyes andChemicals (Pvt), Faisalabad, Pakistan and Mr. Zafar, Man-ager Quality Control Laboratory, Noor Fatima Textile (Pvt),

Faisalabad, Pakistan for providing us the facilities of spectraflash and fastener testers.

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