Dr. Umer Farooq

• Ph.D. in Textile Machatronics from University of Leads, UK

• M.Sc. University of Leads, UK• Chartered Textile Technologist.• 8 years Research and Teaching Experience • Specialization: Yarn Spinning Topic

Innovation in Textiles: Trends and Innovation in Textiles: Trends and ChallengesChallenges

Dr. Tahir ShahCMRI, University of Bolton, UK

Dr. Umer FarooqUniversity of Management and Technology, Lahore

INNOVATION IN TEXTILES: INNOVATION IN TEXTILES:

Trends and ChallengesTrends and Challenges

CONTENTS

• What is innovation?

• Innovation - The Global Textile Industry

• Pakistani Textile Industry Perspective

• Industry – University Interaction

• The Way Forward

• Conclusions

INTRODUCTION

The global textile industry is increasingly facing competition from low-wage countries

Innovations in the production, composition and application of new textiles will be able to create stability in this sector

New technologies in textile production and processing are driving innovation in high-tech textile products

New processes will lead to new products and hence to an expansion of the traditional textile industries, both in terms of supply and production

Increasing globalization, new technologies and a growing demand for new products are changing the textiles market.

What is Innovation?

“Innovation is not the product of logical thought,

although the result is tied to logical structure"

Albert Einstein

A definition of Innovation!

• There are various definitions of innovation,

depending on the context.• Innovation is a process for transforming:

Research Based Ideas Commercial Value

“TO GROW, COMPANIES NEED TO BREAK OUT OF A VICIOUS CYCLE OF COMPETETIVE BENCHMARKING AND IMMITATION”

W.Chan Kim & Rene Mauborgne, “Think for yourself – Stop Copying a Rival”, Financial Times, 08-11-03

Diversification Of Economy

Technological Sovereignty

Value Addition

Economic Growth

INNOVATION

Main Objectives of Innovation

The Innovation Process

An innovation starts as a concept that is refined and developed before application.

BASIC RESEARCH

APPLIED RESEARCH

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

(Including market research)

ADAPTATION AND

MARKETING

Components of an Innovation System

People

Environment Will

Institutions

Infrastructure

ISIS

Benefits of R&D

Research Development Investment in Innovation

New Products/ Processes

Company Profits

Increased Investment

Consumer Benefits and Satisfaction

More Jobs More Goods Higher GNP

The Textile industry is subject to strong pressures in a fast- changing business environment due to two main factors:

Market volatility and

Strong competition world-wide

• The industry need to enhance its capability to produce and market high quality and added value products

• This requires emphasis on new technology, design, marketing and management

• Textile manufacturers must consider when/how to innovate

Textile Industry: The need to Innovate

Size of Major Global Industrial Sectors

Annual Sales (US$ Bn)Military 800Machine construction 800Automotive 1100Chemicals 1320Textiles 1620Information technology 2850Tourism 2900

6%5%

14%

1%3%1%3%

9%3%8%

13%

28%

1%

5%ASSOCIATIONS

AUTOMOTIVE

CHEMICAL

CONSULTING

ELECTRONICS

FINANCIAL INST

MEDICAL

OTHER MANUFAC

PRESS

REFINEMENT

RESEARCH INST

TEXTILES/FIBRES

TRADE

LEADERS IN TEXTILE INNOVATION: IndustriesLEADERS IN TEXTILE INNOVATION: IndustriesLEADERS IN INNOVATION: IndustriesLEADERS IN INNOVATION: Industries

3% 3%10%

6%

3%

1%

1%

2%

5%

1%

1%

13%

7%

44%

USA

AUSTRIA

BEGIUM

DENMARK

FRANCE

GERMANY

INDIA

IRELAND

ISRAEL

NERHERLAND

POLAND

SWEDEN

SWITZERLAND

UK

LEADERS IN TEXTILE INNOVATION: COUNTRIESLEADERS IN TEXTILE INNOVATION: COUNTRIES

Some important market aspects

• Market pull from fresh approach to future life

styles/fashion

• Aging population – better quality of life

• Changing market – Changes in needs

Highly functional sports and leisure wear

Personal protection, safety and comfort

Integration of textile technology, electronics and

communication technologies

Increasing textile customer demands

Hydrophobic Hydrophilic Anti-bacterial Barrier Breathability Antistatic Stretch Smart/Intelligent It is the consumer demand that leads

to new innovative technologies and value added textile materials.

Functionalities

Processes

Environment

Raw Materials

Impacting Factors

Water use, Energy useChemicals, Working conditions,

Disposal, Recyling

Dynamic properties, Anti-microbialSelf-cleaning, Smart textiles,

Comfort

Flexibility: Small batches, Just in time

Customized production

New polymers, Renewable materials

Factors impacting the future generation of textiles

Emerging finishing technologies for textiles

• Plasma technology Atmospheric and low-pressure Treatments

• Microencapsulation technologyFunctional fabric finishing

• NanotechnologyNano coating, Electrospinning

What is Nanotechnology?

Nanotechnology deals with the science and technology at dimensions of roughly 1 to 100 nanometers (nm).

1 Billion Nanometres = 1 Metre

100 nanometers presently is the practically attainable dimension for textile products and applications.

Growth of Nanotechnology

The nature of nanotechnology research and development suggests that nanomaterials production is going to impact every industry, including textiles.

Nanotechnology currently being developed and used

• Nanotechnology can be used in engineering desired textile attributes:Fabric softness, durability, and breathability

• Developing advanced performance characteristics, namely: Water repellency, fire retardancy, antimicrobial resistance, etc.

• In the forms of:Polymeric nanofibresConjugate fibres containing nano-particlesTextile materials with nanofinishesTextile coatings containing nano-particles

Nanotechnology presents a tremendous opportunity for the global textile industry to generate new products that could energize the economy, solve major societal problems, revitalize existing industry, and create entirely new businesses.

•

Impact of Nanotechnology on Textiles Industry

A recent report shows that:

• The global market for nanotechnology in the Textiles industry was around US$480 million in 2007.

• A number of nano-based products have already been introduced to the sector including stain, water and fire resistant fabrics.

• Nano-based products and processes will be worth US$4.9 billion to the Textiles industry by 2015.

• Nearly 25% of all textiles products available in 2015 will incorporate some form of nanotechnology -hygiene area, which covers numerous markets from household care to leisure and consumer goods to healthcare.

• Nanotechnology based applications such self-cleaning textiles as will start to make a major impact from 2011.

Nanotechnology: functional finishing

The functional finishing are processes which impart specific performance properties to fabrics For example finishes that: Improve comfort Improve ease of maintenance Improve durability Provide environmental protection Provide biological resistance Self-cleaning fibres

Small things can create big businesses !!!

Active Areas of Textile R&D: Functional Textiles

Fragrance release textiles Photocatalytic textile coatings Shape Memory Polymers for Intelligent textiles Self-Cleaning Fabrics Carbon Nanotubes for Electronic Textiles Multifunctional Coatings for Medical Textile Applications Textile switches and sensors, and electronic noses Bioactive wound dressings Electrically conductive textiles Stain and water repellent textiles Healing textiles

Applications of Nanotechnology Based Textiles

Nanofibres and Fibres containing

nanoparticles

Finishes and coatings of nano-based materials

Added Value

Textiles

Protective/functional

Hospital/healthcare

Filter media

Smart clothing

Aerospace/defence

Sports/leisure

Automotive parts

Innovation:

A Pakistani Textile Industry

Perspective

• Pakistani textile industry is a major contributor to the economy of the country• The sector has not yet realised its full potential• The industry is still too traditionally minded • The industry needs to take full advantage of the developments in the global arena

Pakistani Textile Industry: As It appears --

Pakistan's Main Exports (2005-06) Values in Million US $ TOTAL EXPORT 10270 Million US $

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

Cotton Fabrics Made-Ups(Incl. Tow els)

Cotton Yarn Bed Ware Hosiery Ready-MadeGarments

SyntheticTextiles

Carpets &Rugs

Other Textiles

Export of Textile Products – from 1971 - 2006

Source: Textile Commission Organisation -TCO / Central Statistics Office, Pakistan

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

1971

-72

1972

-73

1973

-74

1974

-75

1975

-76

1976

-77

1977

-78

1978

-79

1979

-80

1980

-81

1981

-82

1982

-83

1983

-84

1984

-85

1985

-86

1986

-87

1987

-88

1988

-89

1989

-90

1990

-91

1991

-92

1992

-93

1993

-94

1994

-95

1995

-96

1996

-97

1997

-98

1998

-99

1999

-00

2000

-01

2001

-02

2002

-03

2003

-04

2004

-05

2005

-06

Period

Val

ue

in

Mil

lio

n U

S $

Cotton Yarn

Cotton Cloth

Tents and Canvas

Towels

Bed Wear

Garments

Hoisery

(US $ 10.211 B

Exports US $ 10.211 BN (62.1% OF TOTAL EXPORTS)

Manufacturing 46% OF TOTAL MANUFACTURING

Employment 38% OF TOTAL LABOUR FORCE

GDP 8.5% OF TOTAL GDP

Contribution to R&D RS 263 MILLION (<0.05% of Textile exports!)

Pakistan Textile Industry: A snapshot

Global R&D spending targets

Country/region R&D intensity in 2002(Per cent of GDP)

R&D target Target date

European Union 1.85 3.0 per cent of GDP 2010

Austria 2.12 2.5 per cent of GDP 2006

Canada 1.96 Top 5 in OECD 2010

Germany 2.53 3.0 per cent of GDP 2010

Korea 2.53 Significant > (x2) 2007

Norway 1.67 At least OECD average 2005

India 0.8 ????? 2010

China 1.23 Significant > 2010

Pakistan <0.05 (2006) ???????? 2010

USA 2.75 ? 2010

Innovation Performance

Countries

Patents per

million

Innovation Performance

Index Rank Japan 1274.533 10 1

Switzerland 505.839 9.71 2 Finland 363.289 9.5 3

USA 359.84 9.5 4 Singapore 111.37 8.75 16

UK 105.211 8.72 18 China 0.529 5.39 54 India 0.467 5.31 56

Pakistan 0.015 3.13 77 Innovation Index of selected countries in a study

conducted in 2009 of 82 countries across the world. Patents data are averaged over 2004-07 and expressed as

patents per million population for each country- Economist 2009

Innovation Performance

Countries

Expected Innovation Performance Index Rank

Growth % Expected in next 5 Years

Expected Change in Rank

China 5.98 46 11 8 India 5.72 52 7.7 4 Pakistan 3.42 77 9.1 0

Economist 2009

Innovation Performance Index of selected countries over a period of 5 years (2009 to 2013)

(US $ 10.211 BCMRI Bolton University:

Examples of Current Innovative R&D

• Wound dressings/bandages• Wearable devices (Breast Cancer Detection)• Active cooling fabrics• Conducting flexible materials• Auxetic Fibres• Ballistic protection composite• Hybrid geotextiles• Nanocomposites

(US $ 10.211 BPakistan Textile Industry: The Way Forward

• Pakistani textile industry must adopt a fresh approach to technology adoption

• The companies and government need to invest resources into R&D

• Develop the ability to create specialized products

• These could include textiles made using new technologies – woven, knitting, nonwoven, etc.

• New products – surgical gowns, geotextiles, fabrics used in agriculture, high-fashion apparel, and fire-resistant work-wear.

• The textile industry should be a knowledge-intensive industry - willing to look for and apply knowledge

Trying to match low-wage countries with low cost production

- Surely a losing strategy.

(US $ 10.211 BPakistan Textile Industry: What is needed?

Improve infrastructure services as a foundation for

technology development

Improve higher education in science and engineering

Link universities with private sector activities

Breakdown barriers between university departments

Promote innovative activities in science & technology

Improve policy to create/promote innovative environment

Focus on strategic and under-funded research areas

(US $ 10.211 BPakistan Textile Industry: Some Specific Actions

Establish Centres of Excellence

> Education

> R&D

> Targeted workshops/training programmes

Focus on new and emerging technologies

> Technical textiles

> Nonwovens

> Medical Textiles

> Geotextiles

> Nanotechnology

> Effluent minimisation and treatment/disposal

(US $ 10.211 BInnovation: Industry-University InteractionInnovation: Industry-University Interaction

• Benefits of universities, industry and society working together:– Sponsored research projects: funding, equipment and resource donations

– Shared knowledge

– Source of employment

– New idea generation

• Universities and industrial organisations have much to gain

from each other • There is a strong need to improve interaction between these

two important sectors• This will enhance innovative activities in the textile sector • An effective mechanism is needed to nurture this interaction

(US $ 10.211 BCONCLUSIONS

• Innovation has become the major driving force in economic growth and social development in the West.

• This is reflected by the fact that Western countries are promoting innovation as one of their core strategies. • Providing support for activities and initiatives that promote an innovative and knowledge driven economy.

A Final Thought !!!!!

There are three kinds of organizations:

• Those that resist change

• Those that accept change

• Those that seek change

Surely Allah does not change the condition of a people until they change

their own condition.

[Al-Qur'an (13:11) ]

INNOVATION IS NOT AN ABSOLUTE

NECESSITY BUT THEN NEITHER IS

SURVIVAL!Thank you