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Mission Furniture

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Tablesaw JigUniversal

With Laser Accuracy Easy-to-adjust hold-downs ensuresafe handling of the workpiece.Additional hold-down sizes areprovided on page 102 for thosedifficult-to-hold parts, includingsmall moldings.

Laser-engraved angle scalefor accurate angle-cutting.

Replaceablesliding auxiliary

fence.

Sliding table fits into left and rightmiter-gauge slots for both

left and right miters.

Features UHMW polyethylene miter-gaugeguide for long-wearing durability.

Intersecting mini-channel

layout provides quick entryand removal of hold-downsand fences.

Infinitely positionablefence provides a full90 O of miter angleadjusting capability.

Edge of table aligns flush with blade for easycutoff reference. Especially useful whencutting odd-shaped parts and taper-cutting.

DP-00533a

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0

STEP 1Place right edge ofsliding table next to leftedge of blade. Markthe centerline of miter-gauge groove ontoslidingtable.

Fence

LOCATING THE GUIDE-BAR SLOT

*3 / 4" dadoblade setup

*3 / 4" is astandard miter-gauge groovewidth. Adjust tofit your miter-gauge groove,if needed.

Blade to be used with sliding table.

STEP 2Place left edge of slidingtable next to right edge of blade. Mark the centerlineof the miter-gauge grooveonto sliding table.

STEP 3Adjust fenceto center dadoblade set betweencenterlines markedin Steps 1 and 2.Cut a 3 / 4" dado,1

/ 16

" deep intobottom side ofsliding table.

ASliding table

ASliding table

A Sliding table

71

Laser-engraved angle scales on this sliding-table jig help guide you to right-on-the-money mitercuts, tapercuts, crosscuts, and anglecuts. Time and time again,this jig has proved its worth here in the WOOD magazine shop where it wasconceived, designed, and tested. Now, you can build one for your own shop andraise your woodworking to a new level of accuracy. See pages 75 and 100 for

just a few of the jigs many uses.

Okay, lets start with the jig table1 Cut the jig table (A) to the sizelisted in the Bill of Materials. Foran accurate cutting jig later, makesure the rectangular table you cuthas perfectly square corners. (Dueto its stability and strength, weused " [18mm actual] Balticbirch plywood.)2 To customize the jig table foryour particular tablesaw, youllneed to properly locate the miter-gauge groove on the bottom sideof the table (A). To do this, fol-low the 3 steps on Locating theGuide-Bar Slot drawing below.Since one miter-gauge groove ina tablesaw is located farther fromthe blade on one side than theother, the slot in the jigs table(A) will not be centered.3 Using a dado blade in your table-saw, cut a "-deep dado on the bot-tom side of the table (A) to the samewidth as your tablesaws miter-gauge groove centered between thelines where marked in Steps 1 and 2on the drawing Locating the Guide-Bar Slot.

4 Cut the miter-gauge guide bar(B) to size. Use solid birch ifyoure using your own stock, or,if you use our hardware kit, cutthe UHMW (ultra-high molecularweight) polyethylene to size. (Wefound polyethylene slides easierin the groove than wood. Plus,polyethylene will not change insize with seasonal humidity chang-es.) Drill mounting holes in theguide where shown on the TableExploded View drawing. Screwthe guide in place, making sure thescrew heads dont protrude belowthe bottom surface of the guide.5 Fit your tablesaw with a "dado blade thats set to cut "deep (" deeper than the thick-ness of the metal mini channel).Set the fence on your tablesaw3" f rom the edge of the dadob lade . Wi th a d i f f e ren t edgeagainst the fence for each pass,cut four dadoes in the top sur-face of the table (A) where indi-ca ted on the Table ExplodedView drawing.

6 Replace the dado set with theblade you normally use in yourtablesaw. Place the jig in one ofthe miter-gauge slots and trimone edge of the j ig wi th theblade. Mark the front end of the

jig top. Transfer the jig in to theother miter-gauge slot, and withthe marked end forward, trim theopposite edge of the jig.

Continued

Note : Please see the BuyingGuide at the end of the Bill of

Materials for our source of hard-ware and Baltic birch plywood

for this jig. To save you the timeand effort of having to use anadjustable triangle to position the

fence to cut miters, weve had the jig table (A) laser-engraved withangle scales. This, too, is avail-able through the Buying Guide.

If youd rather save a few dollarsand use your own plywood forthe jig table, use an adjustabletriangle to set the angle of cut. Todo this, see Photo G at the end ofthe article for our method.

WOOD MAGAZINE DECEMBER 1996

A

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72

Mini channel

6-32 F.H. machinescrew 1 / 4" long

3 / 16" hole,

countersunk

13 / 16" groove7 / 16" deep

MINI CHANNEL DETAIL

3 / 16" hole6-32 T-nut

5 / 8" hole 1 / 32" deep,centered over3 / 16" hole

3 / 8 x 13 / 16" mini channel(cut to length to fit into dadoes)

6-32 F.H. machine screws 1 / 4" long

Width is cut to fit youtablesaw. See the articfor cutting instruction

13 / 16" grooves 7 / 16" deep

19"

13 / 4"

5 / 32" hole,countersunkon bottom side

#8 x 3 / 4" F.H. wood screw

6-32 T-nut

Center holeon guide.

TABLEEXPLODED

VIEW

3 / 4" plywood top

1 / 4" holes

3"3"

13 / 4"

Caution: Keep end of mini channel1 / 16" from edge of jig after trimmingtable to final width.

73 / 4"

B

1 / 16" deep dado cut to same width asmiter-gauge slot. Cut guide to matchwidth of your miter-gauge slot.

B

A

A

Next, cut and addthe metal mini channel1 Measure the lengths, and use ahacksaw or bandsaw fitted with ametal-cutting blade to cut the 12

pieces of metal mini channel tolength plus ". (We used B-LineSystem B72 mini channel, availableat most electrical supply outlets. Or,see the Buying Guide for our mail-order source.)2 To square the ends and makesure the corresponding pieces areidentical in length, screw a woodenextension to your disc sander mitergauge where shown in the photobelow. Then, mark three lineson the fence to indicate the threelengths of mini channel needed.Using a disc sander, sand one endof each piece of channel square.Then, sand the opposite end ofeach, pushing lightly on the alreadysanded end until it is flush with thepreviously marked lines. Finally,sand the four short side pieces sothey will be positioned " in fromthe edge of the table side wherenoted on the Table Exploded Viewat right . This prevents your table-saw blade from coming in contactwith the mini channel.

Marked lines on a miter-gauge extensionallow you to sand the mini channel to theexact lengths needed.

3 Fit your drill press with a "bit, and attach a fence to the tableso you can drill all the mountingholes centered in the top surfaceof the mini channel where shownon the Mini Channel detail and theParts View drawing on the WOODPatterns insert . File off any burrsfrom the bottom side of the channel.

4 Remove the guide (B) from thebottom side of the table (A). Then,using double-faced tape, stick eachpiece of mini channel in its matinglocation. Using the same " bit in

your drill press, use the holes in themini channel as guides to drill "holes through the table (A).5 Working from the bottom sideof the jig table, drill a " counter-bore " deep for each T-nut. Testthe fit; the T-nuts must not come incontact with the metal top of yourtablesaw when the jig slides backand forth.

Tablesaw JigTablesaw Jig


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73

3 / 16" hole,countersunk

3 / 8-16 oval-tapered knobs37 / 8" long

3 / 8" flat washer

6-32 F.H. machinescrew 1 / 4" long

3 / 8 x 13 / 16" mini channel19 1 / 2" long

7 / 16" slot17 1 / 4" long

6-32 T-nut

3 / 8" squarehead bolt11 / 2" long

13 / 16" groove7 / 16" deep

19 1 / 2"

31 / 8"FENCE

24" 3 / 8" flat washer

15 1 / 2"

3 / 8" squareheadbolt 1 1 / 2" long

17 / 8"

3 / 4"

41 / 4"

AUXILIARYATTACHMENT

7 / 16" slots6" long

3 / 8" counterbore1 / 4" deep witha 1 / 8" holecentered inside

#8 x 2" panheadsheet metal screws

3 / 8-16 3-prong13 / 4"-diameter knob

21 / 2"

E

D

C

7 / 64" pilot hole1 / 2" deep

Part

Bill of Materials

M a t l

.

Q t y

.

T W L

Finished Size

A table " 12" 19" BP 1

B guide " ** 19" B 1

C fence " 3" 19" BP 1

D base " 1" 15" BP 1

E upright " 2" 24" B 1

F stopblock " 1" 1" BP 1

G stopblock " 1" 1" B 1H hold-down " 3" 5" BP 4blanks

I holder 1" 2" 3" P 1

**Width depends on the width of your particulartablesaws miter-gauge groove.

Materials Key: BPBaltic birch plywood,

Bbirch, Ppine or fir.Supplies: " mini channel, 31 6-32 T-nutsand mating 6-32 flathead machine screws "long, 3 #8 " flathead wood screws, 2 -16oval-tapered knobs 3" long, 5 " flat washers, 5" squarehead bolts 1" long, 5 -16 3-prongedplastic knobs 1" in diameter, 3 #8 2" panheadsheet metal screws, 2 #8 1" brass flathead woodscrews, " dowel stock, 2 " carriage bolts 4"long, 4 "-diameter magnets " thick, 2 pieces of" steel rod 5" long, clear finish.

Buying GuideHardware kit. Thirteen pieces of " minichannel cut slightly long (12 for the table andone for the fence), one piece of UHMW polyeth-ylene cut slightly oversized for the table guide

(B), plus all the hardware listed in the Supplieslisting except for the finish. WOOD KIT TSJ1." Weldon countersink bit also available. Forcurrent prices contact Schlabaugh and SonsWoodworking, 720 14th Street, Kalona, IA 52247or call 800/346-9663 to order.Hardware and precut wood kit. All the pieceslisted in the hardware kit above, plus all the Balticbirch plywood and solid-birch pieces listed in theBill of Materials cut to size and shape with thedadoes and miter-gauge slot precut. The table (A)also has the angle markings laser-cut into the topsurface. WOOD KIT TSJ2. For current prices con-tact Schlabaugh and Sons Woodworking, addressand phone number above. " Weldon countersinkbit also available.

Continued

6 One a t a t ime, remove thechannel, and attach a piece ofmasking tape to the bottom sideof each piece. For ease in relo-cating the channel later, num-

ber the tape on the channel andmark the mating number on thedado f rom where the channelwas removed.7 Lightly sand the table and applya couple of light coats of finish (weused polyurethane).

8 Tap all the T-nuts into place in thebottom of the table (A). 9 Using the numbers as guides,reposition the mini channel intheir mating locations in the jig

table. Fit a countersink bit (weused a Weldon " -d iame te rcountersink bit) into your drillpress, and countersink each holein the mini channel so the top sur-face of a 632 flathead machinescrew will seat in the countersinkand the top of the screw will be

flush with the top of the chan-nel. For the stops and fences toslide smoothly in the channellater, the tops of the screws mustnot protrude. The countersink

bit will also machine the tops ofthe T-nuts so they dont protrudethrough the mini channel.10 Remove the pieces of mini

channel fromthe table. Use

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I

HH

G F

1 / 2"-diameter magnets1 / 4" thick, epoxied into holes

3 / 4" hole bored beforecutting the hold-down

to shape

3"

53 / 4"

1" dadoes 3 / 16 " deep,cut before laminating

HOLD-DOWN

LAMINATION3 / 4"

3 / 4" dowel 1 1 / 2" long

3 / 8" hole, centered

3 / 8" carriage bolt41 / 2" long

HOLD-DOWN

1 / 8" round-over alongoutside edges

Grind edges ofcarriage bolt

head to fit loosely into

mini channel.


1 / 2"

3 / 4" plywood

3 / 8" hole, centered

#8 x 1" F.H. brass wood screws

3 / 8"

1 / 2"

15 / 8"

15 / 8"

3 / 8" flat washer

3 / 8" squarehead bolt11 / 2" long

STOPBLOCK

11 / 16"


3 / 4"

3 / 8"

1 / 2"1"

2"

3"

1 / 2" holes1 / 4" deep

5 / 16" holes21 / 2" deep

Sand a slightchamfer onbottom ends.

90 o

1"

4"1 / 4" steel rod5" long

ALIGNMENT PINAND HOLDER(used only with the

laser-cut table)

15 / 16"

3 / 4"

3 / 4"

5 / 32" hole, countersunk on backside. Mating holes in are7 / 64" pilot holes 1 / 2" deep.

F

15 / 8"

H H

1 / 2"

1 / 2"

74

the countersink bit to slightlymachine the tops of the T-nutsa bit more. This creates a slightgap between the T-nuts and minichannel so the T-nut will be pulled

tightly into the bottom of the tablewhen securing the mini channel inplace. Screw the channel in place.11 Reattach the guide bar (B) to thebottom of the table.

Next, make the fence andthe auxiliary attachment1 Cut the fence (C) to the size listedin the Bill of Materials and shownon the Parts View drawing.2 Mark and drill a pair of " holesthrough the fence (C) where shownon the pattern insert . Draw lines toconnect the holes, and cut the wastebetween the holes to form a " slot.3 Cut a " dado " deep inthe top surface of the fence wheredimensioned on the pattern insertand shown on the Fence drawing.4 Cut the mini channel for the fence(C) to length, and drill and counter-sink the mounting holes as you didearlier for the table (A). Finish-sandthe fence, and screw the channel inplace. See the Buying Guide for oursource of knobs for the fence.5 Cut the auxiliary attachment base(D) and upright (E) to size.6 Mark the locations and form "slots in the base (D) where shownon the Parts View.7 Mark the centerpoints, and drillthree " counterbored mount-ing holes, and screw the upright(E) to the base (D) where shownon the Auxiliary Attachment andParts View drawings. Do notglue D to E, since youll need toreplace E after youve cut throughit numerous times.

For cuts of equal length,add a stopblock 1 Cut the stopblock horizontalpiece (F) and vertical piece (G) tosize. See the Stopblock drawing forreference.2 Drill a " hole in F where dimen-sioned on the drawing. Then, drill apair of countersunk mounting holesthrough G and into F. Screw thepieces together.

Tablesaw Jig

For full-sizehold-downpatterns,

see page 102 .

Tablesaw Jig

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75 WOOD MAGAZINE DECEMBER 1996

3 Attach a knob to F where shownin the drawing.

Finally, add a pair of hold-downs and pivot pins1 Cut four hold-down blanks (H)to 35" from " plywood. Cuta 1" dado " deep in each piecewhere shown on the Hold-DownLamination drawing. With theedges and ends aligned, glue andclamp two pieces together to formeach hold-down. Later, transfer thepaper pattern(s) shown on page 102,bore a " hole where indicated, andbandsaw the hold-downs to shape.2 Drill and cut a pair of the "dowels shown on the Hold-Downdrawing, and assemble the hold-downs in the configuration shownon the drawing.3 If you dont plan to buy the laser-engraved table (A), skip to the nextsection. Crosscut and bend twopieces of " steel rod 5" long tothe shape shown on the AlignmentPin and Holder drawing. Youlluse the alignment pins for align-ing the fence on the laser-engravedtable later.4 Build the alignment-pin holdershown on the drawing. To keep theholder close at hand, drill counter-bores, and epoxy four magnets inplace for sticking the holder to yourtablesaw cabinet.

Sand and apply a finish1 Finish-sand the fence, auxiliaryattachment, stop, hold-downs, andalignment-pin holder.2 If you use your own plywoodfor the table (A), consider markingcommonly used angles on the topsurface of the plywood table. Findthe angles with an adjustable tri-angle as shown in Photo G . 3 Add a clear finish too all woodparts. (To prevent the working sur-faces from becoming too slick, weprefer a polyurethane finish.)4 If you used solid stock for yourguide (B), apply a bit of paraffin tothe guide for easier sliding in thetablesaw groove.

How to use your tablesaw jig

o cut angled pieces toshape, mark the cutlines on

the wood. Align a marked cut-line with the edge of the jig table.Position the fence and hold-downsto hold the piece steady. Makethe cut as shown in Photo A . Thefence adjusts easily for makingthe adjoining angle cut as shownin Photo B.

A

B

ou can taper-cut table legsand other projects by mark-

ing the cutline on the workpieceand aligning the marked cutlinewith the outside edge of the jigtable. Then, as shown in Photo C ,

position the fence against theworkpiece, add the stop and hold-downs, and make the cut. Withthis setup, you can cut numerouspieces exactly the same.

Continued on page 100 and 102

C

T

Y

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PARTS VIEW

11 / 8"

31 / 8"

19 1 / 2"17 1 / 4"

11 / 16"13 / 16"

13 / 16" groove 7 / 16 " deep 7 / 16" slot7 / 32" hole

FENCE3 / 4" plywood

13 / 16"

11 / 8"

7 / 16" hole

7 / 16" hole

1"53 / 8"

1"

3 / 16" holes, countersunk

93 / 4"

3 / 8 x 13 / 16" mini channel19 1 / 2"

93 / 4"53 / 8"

C

MINI CHANNEL FOR FENCE C

Center holesinside channel.

11 3 / 8"

5 / 8" 511 / 16" 5 / 8"(2 needed)

3"

5 / 8"

3 / 8 x 13 / 16" mini channel


5 / 8"(4 needed)


43 / 8"

All holes in mini channel are 3 / 16"holes, countersunk on top surface.

5 / 8" 5 / 8"(2 needed)

5 / 8"

3 / 8 x 13 / 16" mini channelCenter holesinside channel.

5 / 8"(4 needed)

Cut 1 / 16" shorter than length ofdadoes at the edges of table . A

MINI CHANNELS FOR TABLE A

BASE FOR AUXILIARY ATTACHMENT15 1 / 2"

17 / 8"

11 / 4"

7 / 16" slots

11 / 4" 1"

7" 7"3 / 4" / 8" counterbore 1 / 4" deep

with a 1 / 8" hole centered inside

6" 6" 11 / 16"

3 / 4"

1 / 8" holeD

WOOD Patterns insert

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100 WOOD MAGAZINE DECEMBER 1996

Continued from page 75

D

I

E

or making accurate 90 crosscuts, use the pivot pins to accuratelyalign the fence on the laser-cut table as shown in Photo D . Use the

jig and fence for crosscutting as shown in Photo E . For repetitive cuts,secure the stopblock to the fence to ensure consistent lengths frompiece to piece.

o set the angle using the laser-engraved table, fit one pivot pin

in place, and pivot the fence againstthe pin. Align the fence with thelaser-marked angle as shown inPhoto F .If you use your own stock for the

jig table, use an adjustable trian-gle and a piece of scrap stock heldagainst the edge of the jig table tocorrectly angle the fence as shownin Photo G .

F

G

ccurately cut both left andright miters with this jig as

shown in Photos H and I . Notethe use of the auxiliary attach-ment. For crown molding and pic-ture frame material, youll need tomove the jig to the opposite sideof the blade as shown in Photo I .

A

F

T

H

Written by

Tablesaw JigHow to use your Tablesaw Jig

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H

53 / 4"

3"

SIDE VIEW

Bore a 3 / 4" hole before cuttingthe hold-down to shape.

Sand slightly if necessaryso 3 / 4" dowel pivots

in hole.

1" dado3 / 16" deep

3 / 4"

TOPVIEW

H

FULL-SIZEPATTERN

71

/ 8"

3"

Sand edgesequally.

NARROW-NOSEHOLD-DOWN

FULL-SIZEPATTERNFOR

STANDARD-SIZEHOLD-DOWN

FORLONG-REACHHOLD-DOWN

FULL-SIZEPATTERN

FOR SMALLHOLD-DOWN

(Used on fenceand where thelong-reach orstandard size

hold-downwon't work.)

Dadolocation

4"

25 / 8"

Dadolocation

Optional shape forholding small partsand clamping at anangle. We found ituseful on moldings.

When using our jig, it became apparent that different-sized hold-downs were necessaryfor the many sizes of workpieces we needed to secure to the sliding table and fence. Usethe full-size patterns shown here to make your own hold-downs.

Tablesaw JigHow to use your Tablesaw Jig

Copyright Meredith Corporation 1997

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