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Victoria’s Secret is an American retailer of lingerie, women’s wear and
beauty products. It is the largest subsidiary of Limited Brands with sales
over 6 Billion USD. The brand has been very creative in keeping itself
relevant to customers and redefining the category as such.
AAQUIB AL HOSSAIN
ABHISHEK BHATIA
AJITABH CHAUDHURI
ANIKET PATKI
Candice Swanepoel
Victoria’s Secret Angel
Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show 2011
August 22, 2012 VICTORIA’S SECRET TO SUCCESS
MANAGEMENT OF CHANGE GROUP 2 REPORT Page 2
WHY
VICTORIA’s SECRET?
“It’s amazing what they can do with a pair of bra
and panties”:Doutzen Kroes (Supermodel and
Victoria’s Secret Angel)
On November 9, 2011 in New York City, the
annual Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show was
telecasted across America over the prime time
channel CBS. The show, unofficially termed as
the largest fashion event in the world was seen
by over 10.3 million people. To understand the
value of the number, one should know that the
average number of viewers for one of the
highest rated sitcoms aired over CBS, How I Met
Your Mother, garners only around 6-7 million
viewers in the prime time slot. Established only in
1977, Victoria’s Secret has blossomed over the
last 3 decades to become the fastest growing
subsidiary and largest contributor to its parent
company Limited Brands with a revenue over 6
billion USD.
Victoria’s Secret was initially a brand
established for women’s lingerie. With some
innovative marketing, distribution and supply
chain strategies, the company has currently the
largest share in the lingerie market in US. The
company has over 1000 stores across different
parts of US. It is also renowned for its popular
brand ambassadors famously termed as the
Victoria’s Secret Angels, who are usually among
the top supermodels in the world and they have
helped Victoria’s Secret earn a tremendous
following from the American teenage girls and
young women. Victoria’s Secret Facebook page
has over 20 million users and its website has a
very high Alexa ranking (one of the highest
visited corporate sites.)
Although enjoying a great status now, when
Victoria’s Secret entered, the market was
cluttered, and women’s lingerie was just
considered as an aide for comfort (or as
Victoria’s Secret would term: “Boring”). To have
grown in an industry which was not openly
discussed, Victoria’s Secret has performed
exceptionally well to change the way the
category is perceived and also employ a
strategy which differentiates itself significantly to
keep it as the market leader.
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BREAKING
THE CLUTTER
ORIGIN OF A MULTI BILLION DOLLAR IDEA
The story of Victoria’s Secret’s origin is an
interesting one. Roy Raymond, a Stanford
graduate found it highly embarrassing to shop
for lingerie for his wife in austere surroundings.
Raymond thus founded Victoria’s Secret in 1977
with the vision of creating an appealing shop
with a welcoming stylish décor inspired by the
Victorian era. The shop’s design was meant to
make men comfortable while shopping for
lingerie with or in absence of their better half.
The lingerie was also offered in a variety of
designs and styles to provide choice to women
while shopping and boost sales. Raymond also
popularly introduced a mail order catalog in
the following year to sell the lingerie under the
Victoria’s Secret brand.
The response to Raymond’s idea had been
positive and Victoria’s Secret had earned
$500,000 in its first year of operations. It had 5
stores under its name and its 42 page mail
order catalog was earning 6 million USD per
year by 1982. It was at this time that Raymond
sold the company for 4 million USD to Leslie
Wexner, CEO of Limited Brands (Hoovers)
UNDER LIMITED BRANDS
Leslie Wexner carried forward the Victoria’s
Secret idea and invested money in the concept
to create a power brand. More stores were built
on similar lines with Victorian era design and
wooden paneled walls to make the décor
inviting for men. Wexner also strongly believed
in the catalog business of Victoria’s Secret.
Wexner thus hired CYNTHIA FEDUS and made
her the chief executive officer of the Victoria’s
Secret Catalog operation. This was the genesis
of the two separate divisions: The Catalog
(Present Day Victoria’s Secret Direct) and The
Stores (Present Day Victoria’s Secret Stores).
CYNTHIA FEDUS’ VISION FOR VICTORIA’S
SECRET CATALOG
Cynthia Fedus as the chief executive of Catalog
Division pushed for Customer education and
brand identity building.
Popularity of the brand amongst men was high
as Victoria’s Secret provided them a welcoming
environment to buy and also educated them
about lingerie and how to make a choice. Thus
Fedus believed in importance of customer
education and built a telephone operating
team to cater primarily to embarrassed men who
were attempting to purchase lingerie as gift
items for their wife/ girlfriends. The catalogue
telephone operators were trained to be patient
and helpful to the male customers who formed a
sizeable portion of the customers calling for
help. However, this concept had not taken off
with women although being a hit amongst men
To develop the brand following amongst
women, focus was shifted to building Brand
identity, Fedus changed the focus in the
catalog from steamy shots of men and women to
that of women posing alone in romantic and
seductive, yet socially acceptable settings. The
change led to doubling of catalog sales within
a year to a value exceeding a million USD.
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Hence Fedus’ move to focus on women and
increase revenues had paid off. In fact the same
theme has carried onto present day catalogs.
GRACE NICHOLS: THE SAVIOUR
In the nineties, the Company had begun to face
issues with quality. Victoria’s Secret was a
premium lingerie brand and quality was one
feature that could not be compromised upon. In
the beginning stages, Victoria’s Secret had
mostly made use of designs which were knock-
offs from other popular brands. Later on,
Victoria’s Secret sourced designs from various
vendors. The marketing strategy had worked
effectively to establish a premium image,
however the quality did not back up the
message
Grace Nichols was the executive Vice President
of Victoria’s Secret Stores and held the position
from 1986 to 1992. When complaints regarding
quality of the lingerie upon washing came under
question, Mrs.Nichols known for her outgoing
nature, took the problem head on. She
identified two reasons for the lack of quality. The
first being poor vendor choice and the second
being lack of quality testing. These
functionalities were weak in Victoria’s Secret as
the two primary divisions were catalog and
Stores whose prime responsibility and core
competency was selling designs.
Victoria’s Secret before Nichols had a 5
member team in the Stores division who were
responsible for obtaining merchandise. To
ensure quality, Nichols developed relations with
reliable vendors such as Vanity Fair and Hanes.
She convinced these major suppliers to remove
their tags and name them as Victoria’s Secret by
assuring them considerable sales, which
although the suppliers were reluctant about,
they were convinced later with the results.
Nichols hence started the system of truly
developing the quality private label of
Victoria’s Secret. Nichols also appointed a
person from Marks and Spencer for quality
management.. The person was responsible for
assuring quality work by suppliers as per the
contractual agreements.
Having obtained the right vendors, Nichols next
step after laying the building blocks for private
label creation was to create the image of
Victoria’s Secret lingerie as an extension to
wardrobe. Having developed the supplier
database, Nichols pushed for increase in Stores
and communicating the message. Nichols went
on an average of creating 50 stores every year.
Nichols achievements during her stint as an EVP
took Victoria’s Secret in the top 10 apparel
brands in the US.
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PIONEERS OF THE INDUSTRY
Victoria’s Secret could not have become a 6
billion dollar brand just by having a clutter
breaking concept. The company is known for its
extensive innovative marketing and one of the
best adopters of e-commerce in the industry.
The key to Victoria’s Secret Success has been
its adaptability and ability to set trend and
make them traditions.
VICTORASSECRET.COM THE ONLINE PIONEERS
Victoria’s Secret entered the online medium
through www.victoriassecret.com in 1998. The
web group was headed by KEN WEIL, a veteran
from an Internet professional services firm
(Proxicom). The website was launched with two
goals
Strengthen and support the Victoria’s
Secret brand
Increase Sales goals.
Amazon.com was established in 1995 and
Victoria’s Secret made its first online sale worth
39 dollars only three years later. The new web
group was here to stay and it was directly
incorporated into Victoria’s Secret Direct
instead of being made into a different division.
The company felt that this would ensure better
communication and customer service and
generate lesser confusion.
The division has become an essential part of the
Direct Division and has a budget of over 10
million dollars annually with a size exceeding 40
members. The website has accomplished what it
was established for and has grown to become a
great interaction medium between the company
and its customers. The e-commerce of Victoria’s
Secret has been profitable too.
Ken Weil attributes the success to his following
moves
Developing an in-house content
management and database management
capability called WENDI. The in-house
system helped Victoria’s Secret in easier
customization of its look and also enabling
changes on a very short notice, thereby
keeping the website interesting and
dynamic.
Ken was able to utilize the call centre
support of Catalog division (now the Direct
Sales Division) and he successfully digitized
the catalog.
He enabled live streaming of Victoria’s
Secret fashion events in the mid-nineties,
and the experience at that time was
phenomenal for the customers. Victoria’s
Secret parties and events had gained a
great reputation, and since the customers
weren’t able to gain access to the same,
the online viewing made the site very
popular.
Development of the website also helped in
a demographic and historic analysis of
buyers. Customized e-mails were sent to
cater to the customers as per their likes. The
same could not have been imagined with
mail catalogs.
The success of the online medium was truly
phenomenal with sales increasing from near zero
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in 1998 to over 200 million USD in 2001. Infact,
Victoria’s Secret in 2000 beat Amazon and
Paypal to win many e-retailing awards.
The web presence has also taken Victoria’s
Secret directly to the customers. The importance
of the medium for Victoria’s Secret can be
gauged from Appendix F. Although webcasts
are common now, its impact in 1998 is tough to
gauge but was a remarkable feat which helped
make the brand more popular
PACIFYING CATALOG AND WEB
The web medium inspite of being a success was
under the Direct Sales division whose Catalog
Sales department had a proud legacy and had
basically spearheaded its revenue up until now.
Hence merging the two channels did bring up
issues regarding resource allocation and
appraisal calculations.
The web was also blamed for cannibalization of
sales from the other channels. Irrespective of a
definite cost advantage over mail catalogs, the
web still drew some flak as its returns and
necessity of existence as additional brand
builder tool was questioned.
SHAREN TURNEY, the current CEO of Victoria’s
Secret Megabrand was named Chief Executive
Officer and President of Victoria’s Secret Direct,
in May 2000. In midst of the problems
mentioned, her thoughts were clear about the
necessity of the catalog and e-commerce arms
to exist together. With extensive experience in
retail, her major actions to reduce the tension
were
Align incentives for the management with
perks and bonus dependent upon divisional
performance rather than channel
performance
Not calculating Channel profitability but
releasing Divisional sales and profitability to
enhance collective responsibility.
Develop the RFM (Recency, Frequency and
Monetary Value” System totrack customer
behavior so as to mail catalogs
accordingly in proportional volumes to
more profitable buyers as mail catalogs
costed more than web catalogs.
THE VICTORIA’S SECRET
FASHION SHOW ED RAZEK: THE MAN BEHIND THE ANGELS
With the increasing contribution of Victoria’s
Secret to Limited Brand’s revenue, it was
deemed necessary to develop the brand with a
unified marketing effort across the distribution
channels. Hence in 1993, the marketing efforts
of Victoria’s Secret were brought under the
Chief marketing Officer of Limited Brands,
Edward Razek (popularly called Ed Razek).
Before this, the Direct Sales and Stores Division
took their own marketing initiatives and this
sometimes confused the customer as they were
not always aligned.
Ed Razek introduced two of the most innovative
and unique features of Victoria’s Secret; they
were the Angels and the Annual Fashion Show.
Ed Razek is also popular for the eye-catching
and creative Victoria’s Secret Commercials
aired on TV.
In 1995, Ed Razek organized the first Victoria’s
Secret Fashion Show. The show was organized
on a budget of 120,000 dollars and was in
Razek’s opinion, more of a learning experience
as they had no idea of the future of the
concept. However the show was termed by
media as the ‘lingerie event of the century’ and
thus, a potential brand building tool was
discovered. The show was since, held annually
except in 2004.
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In 1999, the show was also featured through a
live webcast which received viewership of
almost 2 million. In 2000, the show was aired
over television for the first time in the ABC
network. Since 2001, the fashion show has aired
on the prime time slot of CBS network.
With the success of the fashion show, Ed Razek
introduced the concept of Angels, where some
of the top supermodels became the brand
ambassadors for Victoria’s Secret, and famously
walked in lingerie during the annual fashion
show. The Angels initially introduced for the
glamour factor were soon used to enhance the
positioning and create role models for the
target audience.
The Fashion Shows and Angels have in the
current day become unanimous with the brand
and have resulted in huge popularity for the
brand. Ed Razerk infact has a team of 200
people assisting him to manage a marketing
budget of 250 million USD, one of the highest in
the industry. The fashion shows now hire the best
of the designers and have a much higher
production value with the one in 2011 having a
budget of 13 million USD.
A still (left) from the
Victoria’s Secret
Fashion Show 2011.
The Fashion Show had
major star
performances by Nicki
Minaj, Kanye West, Jay
Z and Maroon 5. The
star value is an
indicator of the high
production value of
this event
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KEEPING
THE BASICS RIGHT
SUPPLY CHAIN: THE LIFELINE
Victoria's Secret consists of several sub-brands
(PINK, Body etc) with each conveying a
specific theme or targeting a specific audience.
Each of these sub-brands is offered in various
styles (push-up, lace etc) and various materials
(cotton, satin etc). Forecasting and delivery of
these goods in an efficient manner hence
becomes a major factor for an excellent
customer experience
In terms of determining the ideal source, the
products are classified into Launch Fashion,
Non-Launch Fashion and Basic Products. About
60% of the products are basic (all year round).
Fashion Products are those which are marketed
for specific seasons and Launch items are those
on whose introduction, a significant investment is
made. Almost 25% are Non-Launch fashion and
15% are Launch fashion products.
The critical processes that make up the
Victoria's Secret's supply chain are: 1) Product
Design and Product Launch; 2) Merchandise
Planning, Allocation and Forecasting; 3)
Production & Sourcing; 4) Logistics; and 5)
Store Operations/Delivery. A design idea, from
conceptualization to delivery is termed as
"Concept-To-Market".
PRODUCT DESIGN AND LAUNCH
Victoria’s Secret has its design office in New
York (Victoria’s Secret Design: VSD). There is
also an enterprise-wide design department
called the Limited Design Studios (LDS) in New
York. However the ideas for new products may
come from third party designers too. The new
products are market tested in the Henri Bendel
store in New York to decide the positioning.
Based upon the initial market test, Launch
Strategies are devised by the marketing Team.
MERCHANDISING PLANNING AND
ALLOCATION
The Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of the brand,
the Executive Vice President (EVP) of Planning,
and the General Merchandise Manager (GMM)
together formulate a merchandise growth
strategy creating a roadmap with a three year
planning horizon. The goal of the effort was to
come up with a multiple annual view of the
growth of sub brands and categories within the
sub-brands (Bras, Panties, Sleepwear) in
cognizance with the merchandise growth
strategy..
“A design Ratio is determined in which the
various different sub-brands would be chosen
specifically depending upon their potential. The
Merchandising Team thus has a Final Edit
Meeting beyond which a Buy Meeting is
organized. The Buy Meeting is organized to
finalize upon the purchase orders The orders
decided upon are passed by the Victoria’s
Secret Production Group.
The Merchandising group reports to the Finance
Team. All brands including Victoria’s Secret go
through a quarterly review process with the
Chief Financial Officer to decide upon the
value for the next buy period. Physical store
inventory is done once a year in Victoria’s
Secret..
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PRODUCTION & SOURCING
80/, of the merchandise sourcing and
manufacturing for The Limited Brands is handled
by Mast, (a completely owned division of the
Limited Brands). The CEO of Mast holds the title
of Senior Vice President, Production & Sourcing.
About a quarter of Mast’s revenue comes from
non-Limited Brands transactions like
Abercrombie and Fitch, Chico’s and Triumph.
Mast is the organization within Limited Brands
used by all subsidiaries to efficiently source
material.
LOGISTICS
The logistics of delivery to stores/ Direct Sales is
handled by the Logistics division of Limited
Brands, the Limited Logistics Service (LLS). The
LLS acts as a third part when it comes to
transactions as the model is similar to what it
would be if the service was outsourced. This
results in keeping a portion of the margins within
Victoria’s Secret. The LLS operates on a Shared
Service Model in which a service level
agreement (SLA) is used as a contract between
businesses and LLS.
THE PROCESS MENTIONED HERE SHOWS THE
COMPLICACY IN THE WORKING IN RESPECT
TO THE ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE SHOWN
IN APPENDIX B. APART FROM THE INNOVATIVE
MARKETING AND WEB PRESENCE, EFFICIENT
MANAGEMENT OF THE SUPPLY CHAIN BY
MANAGING THE LIMITED AND VICTORIA’S
SECRET SIDE HAS BEEN THE MAJOR CRITERIA
FOR VICTORIA’S SECRET’S SUCCESS
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APPENDIX A
KEY PEOPLE
LESLIE WEXNER
CEO, LIMITED BRANDS Majored in Business Administration from The Ohio State University. At
the age of 74, he is the current CEO of Limited Brands. Wexner has
popularly quoted Victoria’s Secret as not being a lingerie brand but
more of an indulgence brand
GRACE NICHOLS
NON-EXECUTIVE BOARD, LIMITED BRANDS A graduate from UCLA. She was the Victoria’s Secret Direct Sales CEO
from 1992 to 2007. She is however famous for her stint as EVP from
1986 to 1992 where she too significant measures build people’s trust in
Victoria’s Secret as quality issues had been raised
EDWARD RAZEK
CEO, LIMITED BRANDS Mr. Razek joined Limited Brands in 1983, as Vice President, Marketing
Limited Stores, and was one of the chief architects of the highly
successful Forenza and Outback Red private label brands. In 1993, he
was promoted to Vice President, Director of Marketing for Limited,
ROY RAYMOND
FOUNDER, VICTORIA’s SECRET A graduate from Stanford, he founded Victoria’s Secret with a funding
of 80,000 USD. After selling Victoria’s Secret, two years later, he started
My Child's Destiny, a retail store for children. It went bankrupt in 1986.
He committed suicide in 1987 from the Golden Gate Bridge
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APPENDIX B
ORGANIZATIONAL
STRUCTURE
The organizational structure illustrated above is updated as per 2002. However significant
changes have undergone in the last 10 years. This is primarily due to emergence of Victoria’s
Secret as a major subsidiary under Limited. Hence a lot of Limited Brands divisions work to support
the Victoria’s Secret infrastructure.
Victoria’s Secret has a single CEO now to whom the 3 major divisions report. The three divisions
are shown above. The major marketing initiatives are under Limited Brands Control
Updated 2002
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APPENDIX C
SUPPLY CHAIN
STRUCTURE
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APPENDIX D
FINANCIAL
PERFORMANCE
2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006
Revenue
(in Billion
USD)
6.121 5.520 5.307 5.604 5.607 5.139
Stores 1028 1040 1043 1020 1003 998
Sales per
Average
Sq.ft (USD)
754 663 581 620 694 731
Sales per
Avg. Store
(1000
USD)
4463 3886 3356 3480 3678 3698
Avg. Store
Size (sq.ft) 5941 5892 5830 5727 5489 5111
Operating
Income
(MUSD)
1081 889 868 589 1110 1176
Stores
Revenue
(BUSD)
4.564 4.018 3.919 4.081 4.208 3.723
Direct
Revenue
(BUSD)
1.557 1.502 1.388 1.523 1.399 1.416
Limited
Brands
Revenue
(BUSD)
10.364 9.613 8.632 9.043 -- --
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APPENDIX E
CURRENT
VICTORIA’S SECRET
ANGELS
Adriana Lima
(2000-present)
BRAZIL
Alessandra Ambrosio
(2004-present)
BRAZIL
Miranda Kerr
(2007-present)
AUSTRALIA
Doutzen Kroes
(2008-present)
NETHERLANDS
Lily Aldridge
(2010-present)
UNITED STATES
Candice Swanepoel
(2010-present)
SOUTH AFRICA
Erin Heatherton
(2010-present)
UNITED STATES
Behati Prinsloo
(2009-present)
NAMIBIA
Lindsay Ellingson
(2011-present)
UNITED STATES
Chanel Iman
(2010-present)
UNITED STATES
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APPENDIX F
ONLINE
INTERACTION WITH
CUSTOMERS
Source: Original Research
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REFERENCES Limited Brands Annual Reports 2009-2012
“Supply Chain Strategies in the Apparel
Industry: The Case of Victoria’s Secret” by
Sumit Kumar (June 2005)
Case #6-0014, Tuck School of Management
(2002)
Victoria’s Secret: Uncovered: Kristia Morabito
The Silky Strategy of Victoria’s Secret:
Chelsea Chi Chang, Alice Lin, Charlene Mak
(28 May, 2004)
Original Research: Ajitabh Chaudhuri under
Prof. Krishanu Rakshit (Ongoing)
Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show (2005 – 2012)
Wikipedia
www.victoriassecret.com
www.limited brands.com
.