160 — issue 24

the streetRua Dom Pedro V

issue 24 — 161

Given its name, Lisbon’s Príncipe Realneighbourhood – “Prince Royal” in English –enjoys a privileged position. Located up thehill from Bairro Alto and the bar-hoppingcrowds, the district is home to leafy squaresand elegant residences, many offeringpanoramas of the city and the Tagus river.There are many independent retailers andparticularly attractive are the shops on RuaDom Pedro V, a street on the quarter’seastern fringe punctuated by colourfultownhouses in crimson and pale yellow.

Named after a 19th-century Portugueseking, the 300m stretch of pavement boastsantique shops, a gourmet grocer, familypharmacist and a rather unconventionalpub. Relatively flat (a godsend in a cityof steep inclines) the street is run byshopkeepers who share a strong sense ofcommunity – they even throw the odd blockparty. “It’s the most cosmopolitan place inthe city,” says Marcela Brunken, a Brazilianwho runs Fabrico Infinito, a boutique witha garden café. “Before there were just

R. da Palmeira

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Rua DomPedro V

Travessa doConde de Soure

Praça doPríncipe Real

Jardim Botânicoda Universidadede Lisboa

R. das Taipas

RoyalprivilegeLisbon———PrefaceFor a break from BairroAlto take a shoppingtrip to the salubriousneighbourhood of PríncipeReal. The shops along RuaDom Pedro V sell specialistPortuguese products andnew businesses are quickto move in. There’s alsoa park that’s home toa farmers’ market.

WriterIvan Carvalho

PhotographerRupert Eden

antiques but increasingly the street isadding variety.”

New arrivals this year include a Spanishretailer selling niche womenswear labelsand a chef from Sarajevo who opened anupscale restaurant just off the strip. Thereare also rumours of a tea salon comingsoon. Proprietors are mindful to keep theirslice of sidewalk shipshape. “It just feelsvery neighbourly,” says florist MaurícioFernandes of Em Nome da Rosa. “I love theolder buildings and the gardens.”

Heading west, Rua Dom Pedro V flowsinto Príncipe Real square and a picturesquepark of the same name. Laid out in the1860s to replace a rubbish heap, it is nowan urban refuge where pensioners playcards and couples relax in the shade.Kiosks sell refreshments and newspapers,and the garden café has wi-fi. There is aweekly farmers’ market and below groundvisitors will discover a 19th-century stonereservoir, now a museum, that is sometimesrented out for private functions. — (M)

Shopping guideTop spotsJardim do Príncipe RealHeld every Saturday in thepark, this organic farmers’market is where residentscan stock up on fresh fruitand vegetables, bread andolive oil.

No 56 Cool de SacAwash in pastels,Cool de Sac is the street’snewcomer. Opened byMadrid native Maria LuisaPries, the boutique sellswomenswear andaccessories, includingballerina flats from Parisbrand Repetto and topsfrom Danish label Rützou.

No 68-70 SolarSince 1956 the Leitão familyhas traded in antique tiles,from decorative plates towall panels. Sourced fromcastles, churches andpalaces, their vast collectionranges from 15th-centuryIslamic to 1930s Art Deco.

No 74 Fabrico InfinitoThis eclectic space offersperfumes as well as one-offchandeliers in Bohemianand Venetian crystaldesigned by the shop’sowner. There’s even a tiny

outdoor café complete withmeditation pool.

No 85 Manuel CastilhoA Lisbon antiques dealerthat sells rare furniture madeduring the Portuguese reignin Goa. Other artefactsinclude Vietnameseceramics, Burmese Buddhasculptures plus a number ofEuropean objets d’art.

No 89 Pavilhão ChinêsFirst-time visitors mistakethis quirky bar for one ofthe local antique shops.Its five rooms are decoratedwith all things collectable(toy soldiers, model trainsand teapots) but thedrinks list is just asextensive. Open everynight until 02.00.

No 97 Em Nome da RosaMadeira-born floristMaurício Fernandes movedin five years ago and hasgarnered praise for his floralarrangements, havingdecorated weddings, hotelsand private homes. A fan ofcarnations, he prefers towork with varieties in whiteand green.

No 111 Sá & LealFine food purveyor Sá &Leal stocks the shelveswith risotto, foie gras andParisian teas. The cellar islined with a well-editedselection of wines, singlemalt whiskies and top ofthe line ports.

No 121 Doce RealStarted as a bakery in1880, Doce Real nowserves as the street’s go-tocafé when locals need apick-me-up espresso or ahot pastel de nata (custardtart). Its slim space ispacked with customersof all ages at all hours ofthe day.

No 125 Farmácia OliveiraRun by a third-generationchemist, the store carriestraditional Portuguesebrands including Confiançasoap and Couto toothpaste.As a neighbourly touch,it home delivers tosenior citizens.

No 35 (Rua do Teixeira)100 ManeirasChef Ljubomir Stanisicrelocated his restaurant to aback lane off Dom Pedro Vin January to access a wideraudience. His tasting menuoffers an imaginativeamuse-bouche and maincourses referencePortuguese classics.

No 85 (Rua Cecílio deSousa) Claudio CoralloJust past the park, motherand daughter wait oncustomers eager to trythe dense chocolate thatcomes from the family’splantation in São Toméand Príncipe. Chocoholicswill want to sample thehouse gelato.

No 167 (Rua EscolaPolitécnica) São MamedeFocusing on modern art,the São Mamede galleryshowcases top Portuguesepainters and sculptors.Of particular interest arethe subterranean exhibitrooms with arched ceilings,which are accessed via aspiral staircase.

No 71 (Rua S. Pedro deAlcântara) BiblartePortuguese poetFernando Pessoa tooksiestas in this bookshop.Today, bibliophiles canfind first editions of hiswork on the shelvesnext to rare tomes andatlases, all cataloguedby 83-year-old owner,Ernesto Martins.

Ljubomir StanisicExecutive chef,100 Maneiras

Ricciarda CoralloClaudio Corallo

Maurício FernandesOwner, Em Nome da Rosa

Maria LuisaOwner, Cool de Sac

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