ROADTRIP Civil War Sites, Part II
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M8 Sunday, June 11, 2006 The Washington Postx
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W ith friends and family travel-ing this summer, you don’t
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After finding a 10-10 code thatoffers the best deal for the coun-try you’re calling, simply punch itin before dialing an internationalarea code and phone number.Some services will confirm therate in real-time on the phone,but be sure to read all of theterms for a 10-10 code beforepicking up that receiver. Someservices also charge an extra percall fee when you use one of theircodes, though you’re usually notcharged if the call doesn’t con-nect. Rules and rates also varywidely for calls to mobile phones.
— Courtney Macavinta
BY MAX OPPENHEIM — GETTY IMAGES
Rappahannock River
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Give a nod to the fallen withthis Confederate soldier.
Watch out for the trees while playing
Frisbee golf in the mostly wooded
Pohick Bay Regional Park.
Goolrick’s has an old-fashioned lunch
counter that moves with modern speed.
Confederate soldiers fought twice — in December 1862 andMay 1863 — at this stone wall paralleling the Sunken Road.
Driver’s route
Start here
Take the scenic route along the GeorgeWashington Memorial Parkway, butdon’t dawdle — getting through this trip inone day requires a commitment to motion.
Hit the batting cages atLocust Shade Park.
The bullet marks that remain onthe Old Salem Church werefrom shots intended for the snipersfiring from the upper floor windows.
At ChancellorsvilleBattlefield, rangerswill give you a mapto find whereStonewall Jackson’sarm was buried.
At Hazel Grove — a grassy knollcovered with cannons — imaginethe day rounds fired across thefarmland at Union troops at Fairview.
Be one of thosepeople who stopsto read historicalroadside markers.This one tells thetragic story ofhow StonewallJackson’s ownsoldiers accidentallyshot him.
The current peace atthe Ellwood estatebelies the bustle ofthe Federals thatused it as a battleheadquarters duringthe Wilderness.
V I R G I N I A M A R Y L A N D
Pohick BayRegional Park
Woodbridge
FA I R FA X C O U N T Y
P R I N C EW I L L I A MC O U N T Y
STA F F O R D C O U N T Y
S P OTSY LVA N I A C O U N T Y
O R A N G EC O .
A L E X A N D R I A
A R L I N GTO NC O .
Poto
mac
Rive
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MountVernon
Dumfries
Fredericksburg
Wilderness
LocustShade Park
PRINCE STREET
WASHINGTONSTREET
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EMO
RIA
LPA
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WAY
POHICK BAY DRIVE
GUNSTONRD.
LOCUST SHADEDRIVE
CAROLINESTREET
LAFAYETTE BLVD.
STUART DRIVE
BULLOCKROAD
Fairfax
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WHERE: Civil War battlefields in Virginia.
WHY: Chilling stories of snipers at a churchand an amputated arm.
HOW FAR: About 65 miles or 90 minutesfrom Alexandria.
Y ou don’t have to be a Civil Warbuff to appreciate the beauty ofthe storied countryside on thistrip through the Old Dominion —or get a chill conjuring images of
the heroic and gruesome struggles of dayspast.
We visit three of the four major Civil Warengagements commemorated by the Freder-icksburg and Spotsylvania National MilitaryPark: Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville andthe Wilderness. The entire area, midway be-tween Washington and Richmond, saw morethan 100,000 casualties during the Civil War.
We begin at a statue you may have drivenpast a hundred times: a man standing withhead bowed, arms folded, facing the south. Itmarks the spot from which Alexandrians de-parted as Confederate soldiers for the CivilWar on May 24, 1861. But the historic heartof the trip doesn’t start until we reach theFredericksburg Battlefield Visitor’s Center,where you should spring the $2 (seniors $1,younger than 10 free) to see the recently up-dated 22-minute movie.
The cinematic history lesson includes De-cember of 1862’s Battle of Fredericksburg aswell as 1863’s Chancellorsville campaign —and prepares you to appreciate the SunkenRoad adjacent to the center. Don’t miss thephoto posted in the parking lot — it was tak-en just a few hours after the intense fightingthere on May 3, 1863. The image of fallensoldiers with guns, clothes and equipment
strewn about puts you hauntingly in the mid-dle of that day.
In fact, about four miles west later thatday, the same Union troops attacked Confed-erates at Old Salem Church. The 1844-builtBaptist church had been serving as tempo-rary home to civilians displaced by the war,but the refugees found their “home” sudden-ly transformed into a battlefield hospital.
Fighting also raged nearby at Hazel Groveand Fairview — the main Battle of Chancel-lorsville, considered by many to be Robert E.Lee’s tactical masterpiece. Today, you canstand on the well-preserved battlefield andexamine one of the many cannons that re-mind visitors of the combat there.
Finally, we arrive at the Ellwood planta-tion, which turns out to be the most peculiarstop on our trip — it boasts the burial sitenot of Stonewall Jackson but of his left arm,which was amputated after he was shot byfriendly fire on May 2, 1863. This 1790s-builtfarm served as a field hospital for the Battleof Chancellorsville and as Union headquar-ters a year later during the horrific Battle ofthe Wilderness. — Susan Straight
Road Trip maps are available online at www.washingtonpost.com/roadtrip, as are address-es and hours of operation (be sure to checkbefore you go). Have an idea for a trip? E-mail [email protected].
MAP BY JEROME COOKSON FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; PHOTOS BY SUSAN STRAIGHT FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
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