INDITEX
PRODUCT HEALTH AT A GLANCE
10th Ekoteks SymposiumIstanbul, May 3rd 2017
INDITEX
“Picking”Program
R&DCollaborations
Ready To Manufacture (RTM)
Green To Wear (GTW)
RCAAudits
INDITEX Product Health Programs Throughout Its Supply Chain
The List by
INDITEX
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
Product health standard: Based on the most restringent product health legislations wordwide.
Regulates and/or restricts different families of chemicals (19) or parameters (6) related to theuse of chemical products in all INDITEX productions with the aim of protecting customers´shealth.
Arilamines
* Dyestuffs* Pigments
Formaldehyde
* Chemicals forPrinting
Heavy Metals
* Buttons* Zippers
FiberComposition
* CompositionTolerances
ColourFastness
pH
* AuxiliaryProducts
INDITEX Product Health Standard: Introduction to Clear To Wear (CTW)
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
RawMaterials
Spinning
Weaving
Wet
processesStitching
Final Article
INDITEX Product Health Standard: Clear To Wear (CTW) Scope
Product Health and Safety
BEFORE Production Pre-Production Program
DURING Production “Picking” ProgramRCA Audits
AFTER Production Control at distribution centres
Same implementation level in all INDITEX brands
INDITEX
INDITEX Product Health Programs: REACTIVE Programs
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
INDITEX Product Health Programs: REACTIVE Programs: During Production
Production
Start
Production
End
41.880 “Picking” Visits675.817 Tests
“Picking” Program
DESCRIPTION:• Individual chemical risks allocation for every single
article produced by INDITEX.
• Random sampling of a determine number of samples
once production reaches a specific level and shipment
to local lab.
OBJECTIVE:Early detection of potential CTW no compliances before
production is finished and sent to INDITEX.
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
DESCRIPTION:
Technical audits carried out by experts in textile/leather sector once a detection/CTW no compliance is detected
by Picking project
OBJETIVE:
To determine the source of the detection/CTW no compliance to prevent it in the future
365 RCA Audits > 2.500 Chemicals Tested
INDITEX Product Health and Safety Programs: REACTIVE Projects
Issues To Be Checked:
Facility capacity
Machinary available
Manufacturing process
Manufacturing process récipe
Chemical products involved
Outcomes:
Analytical results of the Chemicals involved
Conclusions about the source of the problem
Recommendations
Root Cause Analysis (RCA) Audits
INDITEX
Sustainability and Product Health & Safety Programs: Proactive Programs
DESCRIPTION:
Investment in different programs to improve the technical capabilities of the supply chain and consequenly, its
sustainability by the reduction of:
• CTW non compliances:
o Due to the comsumption of more resources (raw materials, energy, chemicals, etc.)
o Due to production rejections
• Manufacturing costs
• Manufacturing times
PROACTIVE
Programs REACTIVE
Programs
INDITEX
“Picking”Program
R&DCollaborations
Ready To Manufacture (RTM)
Green To Wear (GTW)
RCAAudits
INDITEX Product Health Programs Throughout Its Supply Chain
The List by
INDITEX
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
The List by INDITEX: Introduction
DESCRIPTION:
First comprehensive register of
chemical products used in textile
and leather manufacturing
processes classified by their
degree of CTW compliance.
OBJECTIVE:
Supervise and improve quality of
chemical products used during
textile/leather manufacturing
processes along with the
chemical industry.
MOTIVATION:
INDITEX epidemiological studies shown that most of CTW non compliances are related to the use of bad quality dyestuffs
and auxiliaries during articles production.
Product Health and Safety
CTW Categories
Chemical Classification According to CTW Categories
Codes Description
(A) Can be used
(B) Can be used but application needs to be tested
(C) Cannot be used
CTW Non Compliance Description
(1) Formaldehyde
(2) Heavy Metals
(3) Chromium
(4) Arylamines (azo dyes)
Chemicals Family
INDITEX
The List by INDITEX: Description (I)
PARTICIPANT
INDITEX
(1) Formaldehyde
(2) Heavy Metals
(3) Chromium
(4) Arylamines (azo dyes)
(5) Chlorophenols
(6) Phthalates
(7) Fluorocarbons
(8) Others
The List by INDITEX: Description (II)
PARTICIPANT
I Edition (11/13) II Edition (01/15) III Edition (03/17)
10 new companies
Total: 22 companies
15 Requests 64 Requests 50+ Requests
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
The List by INDITEX: Evolution
Key Parameters 1st Edition 2nd Edition 3rd Edition
Companies Involved 10 15 22
Chemical Products Included 4,224 8,258 Approx. 20 ,000
Number of Tests Performed 1,774 8,289 Approx. 32,000
Chemicals classified as “B” or “C” 710 (17 %) 1,548 (19 %) Approx. 6,800 (34 %)
INDITEX
The List by INDITEX: Commitments of Participants
• Elimination/progresive reduction of regulated substances
• Assumption of finalcial penalties
• Removal of non complaint lots from the market
• Acceptance of audits to their production sites on a regular basis
Reactive25%
Disperse20%
Vat10%
Direct10%
Acid5%
Others30%
Global Estimation of DyestuffsDistribution
• 40-45 % of reactive dyestuffs are based on blackreactive 5.
• Black reactive 5 consumption is about 180,000 –200,000 Tons/year (12 % of total dyestuffsconsumption).
• All black reactive 5 contain 150 – 700 ppm pCA dueto elimination costs and difficulty.
• As a consequence of imposed productionimprovements, 2 of the participants has developedthe first black reactive 5 without pCA.
Dyestuff Global Consumption Estimation: 1.7 million tons
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
The List by INDITEX: Case Study: Black Reactive 5
OUTCOMES:
• To guarantee the compliance of “Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals” commitment.
• To prohibit the use of most polluting chemicals in Inditex productions.
• To improve quality of chemicals and waste waters by imposing continuos production
improvement to all participants.
• To lead chemical industry to improve their manufacturing processes and quality of their
products by creating chemicals risks awareness into the textile/leather sectors.
• To reduce product health international legislation non compliances in INDITEX and other
retailers productions.
• To ease selection of chemicals in order to save time and costs.
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
The List by INDITEX: Outcomes
• Inclusion of New Participants and Parameters
• Creation of a Specific Section for Sustainable Manufacturing Processes
• Indication of Sustainable Chemicals
• Online Version
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
The List by INDITEX: Future Initiatives
Focus Towards Sustainability…
INDITEX
“Picking”Program
R&DCollaborations
Ready To Manufacture (RTM)
Green To Wear (GTW)
RCAAudits
INDITEX Product Health Programs Throughout Its Supply Chain
The List by
INDITEX
Product Health and Safety
DESCRIPTION:
Manufacturing code of mandatory compliance for all INDITEX direct suppliers and their wet processing mills.
RTM includes for the first time mandatory GMPs and recommended best practices which covers all stages of the
manufacturing process in order to ensure production traceability and CTW compliance.
INDITEX
Ready To Manufacture: Introduction
Raw Material Testing Finished
Product
Pretreatment Beam House
Tanning
Dyeing PrintingWashingCrusting
Finishing
Dyes, Pigments, Auxiliaries
Grey Yarn / Fabric ,Raw Hide/ Skin
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
Ready To Manufacture: Description
o Section 1 - Mill Staff
o Section 2 - General Warehouse Conditions
o Section 3 - Raw Materials Warehouse
o Section 4 - Auxiliaries and Dyestuffs/Pigments Warehouse
o Section 5 - Finished Goods Warehouse
o Section 6 - Work In Progress
INTERNAL STRUCTURE:
2 chapters:
• Direct suppliers and sub-suppliers:
• Mill included in the supply chain of direct suppliers or sub-suppliers:
OBJECTIVE:
To ensure full compliance of INDITEX product health
standard (CTW) and MRSL.
SCOPE:
Dyeing and printing mills, laundries and tanneries
within the supply chain of all INDITEX direct suppliers.
o Section 7 - Dyeing and Washing
o Section 8 - Printing
o Section 9 - Water Discharge Effluents
o Section 10 - Production and Chemicals Control
o Section 11 - CTW Management
o Annexes (templates and decision charts)
o Section 1 – Direct Supplier Staff o Section 2 – Traceability Documents
Product Health and Safety
PARAMETERS CONTROLLED:
Arylamines; Formaldehyde; pH; Colour Fastness, Fiber Composition, PFCs and APEOs.
RTM IMPLEMENTATION AND VERIFICATION:
RTM implementation is checked by means of regular technical audits performed by nominated third parties service
providers.
In case RTM non compliance is found, a corrective action plan is provided and checked by means of follow-up audits.
INDITEX
Ready To Manufacture: Implementation and Verification
Type of Facility Audited/Trained % Improvement
Direct Suppliers 335 89 %
Mills 1,506 71 %
RTM COMMUNICATION:
RTM manufacturing code has been translated into 9 languages in order to improve distribution throughout the wet
processing mills of all direct suppliers involved.
Product Health and Safety
• Increase of factories sustainability/reduction of environmental impact:
o Power, water and chemicals consumption.
o Waste waters and emissions.
• Reduction in manufacturing times and costs associated to article reprocessing.
• Optimization of chemicals inventory.
• Improvement in risk management.
• Increase profitability by reducing variations, wastes and defects/rejections.
Product Health and Safety
Important: All RTM implementation benefits could be enjoyed by all retailers using the audited mill.
INDITEX
Ready To Manufacture: Implementation Benefits
INDITEXINDITEX
The List by INDITEX and Ready To Manufacture Connectionmanagement.. Applications Status for the III Editio
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
“Picking”Program
R&DCollaborations
Ready To Manufacture (RTM)
Green To Wear (GTW)
RCAAudits
INDITEX Product Health Programs Throughout Its Supply Chain
The List by
INDITEX
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
Latest R&D Collaborations: Introduction
Universities:
Technological Centers:
R&D Laboratories:
Chemical Manufacturers/Consultancy:
Supervising and Sectorial Organisms:
Product Health and Safety
INDITEX
“Picking”Program
R&DCollaborations
Ready To Manufacture (RTM)
Green To Wear (GTW)
RCAAudits
INDITEX Product Health Programs Throughout Its Supply Chain
The List by
INDITEX
Product Health and Safety
Where Are We Going To….?