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january 2018 The world’s best wine magazine
ALSO • Anniversary buys for 2018 • Vintage Champagne • Tawny Port
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TAsTED & RATED2015 Northern Rhône redsNew Zealand Chardonnay
mEET ThE Risk-TAkERsWhen the winemaking dream becomes a reality
30 unDER £30Top New World buys
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February 2018 The world’s best wine magazine
Cover February 2018.indd 1 06/12/2017 15:06
Also • Travel: Vinho Verde & San Sebastián • Galician & Txakolí whites
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ExpErt insightsPriorat, top Rioja bodegas and Ribera del Duero
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March 2018 The world’s best wine magazine
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PLUS • Aldo Conterno • Alois Lageder • 2016 Northern Rhônes
SICILY, SOAVE& CALABRIAThe producers to knowand the wines to buy
BOTTI, BARRIQUEOR AMPHORA?
TASTED & RATED Chianti Classico: top tiers, Valpolicella Superiore andVernaccia di San Gimignano
EXCITING ITALY338 wines from top to toe
May 2018 The world’s best wine magazine
WORLD’S BESTPINOT GRIS
Tablet cover May 2018.indd 1 12/03/2018 11:05
2019 issue themes
All information correct at date of publication (January 2019)
2019 issue themes
PREMIUMAUSSIE SHIRAZ165 wines tasted & rated
SUMMER REDSNew Zealand Pinot Noir,Beaujolais and red Sancerre
WONDERFUL WHITE WINESTop-tier German Riesling,Spain’s ageworthy whitesand the best from Argentina
BORDEAUX 2017Choose well with our expert guide
The world’s best wine magazineJuly 2018July 2018
The world’s best wine magazine
PLUS • Travel: Bolognaand Spanish winery hotels
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July - Bordeaux Guide
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September - DWWA Supplement
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October 2018 The world’s best wine magazine
TasTed & RaTedCabernet Franc, Calchaquí Valley reds, Brazil’s best and Chilean Sauvignon Blanc
value malbec26 incredible wines under £20
SOUThAMERICASignature grapes, top new names and sparkling wines
Plus • Travel: My Santiago • Uruguay • Criolla
chile: guide To vinTagesWhat to buy from 2014 on
Tablet cover Oct 18.indd 1 14/08/2018 13:55
November 2017 The world’s best wine magazine
Portugal’s native redsBest buys from £8-£25
Brilliant 2012 Brunellos123 wines tasted & rated
also • Châteauneuf-du-Pape • German Pinot Noir • Travel: Hermanus
Mouton Rothschild
The new generaTion
australian intrigueExciting whites, plus
cool Tasmania
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PLUS • 10 wines to try before you die • Top Cava
THE BEST CHAMPAGNES
AT £40 OR LESS
December 2018 The world’s best wine magazine
BIGand beautiful
Andrew Jefford on why some high-alcohol wines can give enormous pleasure
CLASSIC VINTAGESTO BUY NOWVintage Port 2016, Chablis 2017 and Bordeaux 1989 & 1990
Tablet cover Dec 2018.indd 1 16/10/2018 14:12
The world’s best wine magazine
WorldWine
AWArds2018
The winners
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All information correct at date of publication (January 2019)
Copy dates 2019
ISSUE ON SALE DATE COPY DEADLINE
January 05 December 2018 12 November 2018
February 02 January 2019 03 December 2018
March 06 February 2019 14 January 2019
April 06 March 2019 11 February 2019
May 03 April 2019 11 March 2019
June 01 May 2019 05 April 2019
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November 02 October 2019 09 September 2019
December 06 November 2019 11 October 2019
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P001_DECSUPP_AUG18.indd 1 31/05/2018 14:26
EFG
Promotional feature Promotional feature
Few landscapes are as strikingly elemental as those that host the Amarone vineyards. Located to the northeast of Verona and Lake
Garda, the 240 square kilometres of the Valpolicella Classica growing area consist of a cluster of three main valleys and a further six minor ones, each with its own specific soils and climatic peculiarities shaped by air, fire, earth and water in the course of sixty million years.
A relatively small district with a richly stratified history, the Valpolicella is what Sandro Boscaini, who heads the Masi winery, describes as a “small universe in its own right”. It boasts a remarkable number of distinctive terroirs and a singular technique: appassimento, a method of making wines from semi-dried grapes that dates back to ancient Roman times.
With its characteristic foresight in pioneering new concepts in wine production, Masi has devoted particular attention to single-vineyard wines since the 1950s. Through careful selection of the finest growing areas, its portfolio today comprises five notable Amarones, the most extensive collection of any producer in the Valpolicella Classica.
The Campolongo di Torbe Amarone comes from the upper reaches of the Negrar and Marano valleys, at an altitude of around 400 metres above seal level, where the reddish soils consist largely of Eocene limestone, interspersed with basaltic fragments of prehistoric volcanic origin. All this contributes to a prize-winning wine that is supremely elegant, with a hint of bitter almond and cherrystone present in the bouquet, and great persistence in the mouth.
The second Masi cru is the Mazzano Amarone, which comes from an estate identified as early as the 12th century as a superb winegrowing area. This is one of the highest in the Valpolicella, deeply sloping and supported by dry-stone walls. Here brown Cretaceous marl and appassimento in situ give life to a wine of great depth
and structure whose slightly austere nobility is softened by gentle tannins.
Vaio Armaron, Masi’s third single-vineyard Amarone, is no less impressive. It comes from the light brown, friable soils of a small valley somewhat lower down, in the historic Serego Alighieri estate, which has belonged to the descendants of the poet Dante since 1353. Although the winemaking side of the property is run in collaboration with Masi, appassimento still takes place in the drying lofts at the villa. More traditional in style, this Amarone has a complex, inviting bouquet and aromas of over-ripe cherry and cooked plums. In the mouth the initial impact of sweetness gives way to plenty of cherry and ripe berries, with a hint of cinnamon and vanilla.
Costasera Amarone is made with grapes selected from several hillsides that all face southwest, where they enjoy the sun’s rays through to sunset and the
extra light reflected from Lake Garda. It’s an Amarone that respects tradition, but also answers the contemporary demand for wines that can be served with food.
Riserva di Costasera is a cuvée of the same origins, with the addition of a small percentage of semi-dried Oseleta grapes, a variety recently retrieved from oblivion by Masi, and appassimento that is extended to at least 120 days. Although the wine is huge, intense and full-bodied, it has a remarkably fresh finish, making it an ideal wine for the end of a meal.
Alongside rediscovering forgotten grape varieties of great oenological value, the Masi Technical Group has also devoted years of research to understanding all aspects of the appassimento process, which invests wines with greater concentration of colour, flavours and aromas. Only perfectly healthy grapes can be used, and they must be laid out to rest on
Amarone: from local to glocal
Wri
tten
by
Kat
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Above: Costasera Amarone, Masi’s flagship on the international market
Masi advertorial.indd 58 16/08/2018 16:26
Promotional feature Promotional feature
Appassimento travels from the Veneto to ArgentinaThe home of appassimento is the Veneto. Masi has also experimented successfully with partially-dried Refosco grapes at its property in Friuli. But its most original application came when Masi exported the technique much further afield, to the Masi Tupungato Estate in the Mendoza province of Argentina, where production is also certified organic.
Located on a gently sloping plateau at an altitude of around 1000 metres, backed by the snow-capped Andean Cordillera range, the Tupungato vineyards have been planted with Corvina
and Pinot Grigio, to blend with the Argentinean Malbec and Torrontés. In their new home, the Corvina grapes achieve a higher concentration of sugars than they do in the Valpolicella, with deeper colour and naturally soft tannins. Because the atmosphere is extremely dry, appassimento for just fifteen to twenty days of Corvina and Malbec grapes in a 70/30 blend produce a wine that is unique for the area: Corbec, a red with an impressive bouquet of extra ripe cherries, a full, fruity body and an almost virile, tannic finish.
Corbec, from Masi Tupungato Estate
Above: Mazzano Amarone, the jewel-in-the-crown of Cantina Privata Boscaini
bamboo racks in special drying rooms for over a hundred days. “With a premium harvest and relatively dry, breezy weather during the appassimento period, the resulting Amarone will be superb, worthy of our Five Star Rating”, Sandro Boscaini explains. “We have created a special collection of our finest vintages in the Cantina Privata Boscaini, which we think of as a precious heritage to enjoy with friends and wine connoisseurs.”
Mr Amarone, as Boscaini is known in the trade, also points out that “appassimento isn’t a magic wand that can turn something average into something memorable. To help people understand how it works and where it is applicable we have developed an enjoyable, hands-on form of hospitality we call the Masi Wine Experience. It’s an open invitation to see how and where our vines are grown, to visit our cellars and taste our wines, possibly paired with some delectable food.”
www.masi.it/eng/masiwineexperience
Masi advertorial.indd 59 16/08/2018 16:26
Bodega BouzaPioneers in Uruguay
With origins in the food industry, the Bouza family turned to wine production in the late 1990s because
of their love of the land and its products. Juan and Elisa Bouza joined forces with Uruguayan winemaker Eduardo Boido to plan this project and concentrate on making high-end wines. To achieve this objective, they have kept a small scale of production, which allows them to pay maximum attention to the grapes in each of their vineyards. And with minimum intervention in the winery, they get individual and complex wines that reflect the characteristics of each vintage and terroir.
The seasons of the year are well defined in Uruguay and the vineyards are influenced by their proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. But climate is hard to predict and abrupt changes in the weather mean that the team in charge of the Bouza vineyards have to pay close attention to the vines, looking after them with love, dedication and intelligence. It’s hard work, but the rewards are immense since the result is wines with great personality, surprising in their quality, year after year.
The Bouza project began with vineyards in the south of Uruguay, a very traditional vine growing region, and more recently, vineyards have also been planted in the east, a new emerging area for grape production.
In the south, Bouza grow Albariño, Chardonnay, Merlot, Tempranillo and of course Tannat, the main grape in
Wine tourism at BouzaThe Bouza winery, located in Melilla, Montevideo, is set in beautiful countryside. Visitors are welcome from Monday to Saturday to learn about the winery processes and vineyard management with guided tours: • Enjoy the wines in the tasting room with tapas to go with them,• Admire the classic car collection,• Delight yourself with the food and wine pairings in the restaurant.
“Maximum attention to the grapes… minimum intervention in the winery… wines with great personality…”
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
other producers to follow on with this Spanish grape.
In the east, where the vineyards benefit even more from the maritime influence of the near-by Atlantic Ocean, Bouza have selected Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Tannat. Perhaps their success with Riesling will encourage other producers to follow suit too?
UK importer: www.jeroboams.co.uk
Bouza winery, Montevideo
The Bouza family
Bouza Merlot Pan de Azúcar
Uruguay. Albariño and Tempranillo were chosen because of the Spanish roots of the family. In fact, Bouza are pioneers in planting Albariño in Uruguay, getting great results which have encouraged
Riesling vineyard in Pan de Azúcar, Maldonado
Bouza advertorial.indd 81 16/08/2018 16:32
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D E C A N T E R • S p o n s o r e d s u p p l e m e n t | 54 | S p o n s o r e d s u p p l e m e n t • D E C A N T E R
Wine lover’s guide to
RomeGet a true taste of the Italian capital as wine expert Nina Caplan shares her selection of the best places to visit for authentic cuisine and great wines
1 Al Vino al VinoAs unpretentious as its name, but lined with interesting bottles, this bar just up the street from the Colosseum is a great place to relax after visiting Rome’s sights. A few glasses of good, inexpensive wine and a plate of superb caponata, surrounded by understatedly hip locals, will revive any jaded tourist. Via dei Serpenti 19
3 Armando al PantheonNext to the grandiose curves of Emperor Hadrian’s Pantheon sits a restaurant that has its own claim to longevity: the Gargioli family has been serving delicious local, seasonal specialities here for over 50 years. The stained glass in the lobby sheds a mellow light, and the wide range of wines by small Italian producers adds to the feeling of wellbeing. www.armandoalpantheon.it
2 La PergolaRome’s only three-star Michelin restaurant has extraordinary views from the top floor of the deluxe Cavalieri hotel on Monte Mario, the city’s highest hill. Heinz Beck’s food is exceptional but the cellar is even better, with old vintages of Bordeaux and a range of Italy’s top labels. www.romecavalieri.com/la-pergola
5 Da FeliceFelice Trivelloni was a legend in Testaccio, the working-class Roman neighbourhood that used to house the city’s abattoirs: his food was enticing, but if he didn’t like you, you weren’t coming in. These days, his son runs the trattoria and everyone is welcome to the calm space with its exposed bricks – you just need to make sure you have a reservation. www.feliceatestaccio.it
4 Il GoccettoFormerly a medieval bishop’s palace, this cosy, wood-panelled bar, with its painted ceilings and tiny tables, has rows of bottles within tantalisingly easy reach. Wines by the glass start at €5 (£4.30) and there are plates of good antipasti to mop them up. You can buy bottles to take away, too. www.facebook.com/Ilgoccetto
6 Antico ArcoThe food may be modern fusion, but the cellars here, which can hold up to 20,000 bottles, were originally built as catacombs in the 4th century. Visit during the day to sample miniature versions of dishes from the evening menu, such as tiger prawn and squid salad with asparagus sauce. Booking required. www.anticoarco.it
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D E C A N T E R • S p o n s o r e d s u p p l e m e n t | 54 | S p o n s o r e d s u p p l e m e n t • D E C A N T E R
7 Ai Tre ScaliniAi Tre Scalini, its violet door framed by green creepers, would be kitsch if it weren’t so obviously authentic. Founded in 1895, this old-fashioned bar, charmingly decorated with posters and Dante quotations, serves favourites such as polpette al sugo (meatballs in tomato sauce) and offers an array of simple Italian wines. www.colosseoorg.wixsite.com/aitrescalinihtml
9 Glass HostariaCristina Bowerman’s innovative food has won her a Michelin star. Think ravioli stuffed with foie gras and amaretto, with ingredients sourced from local producers where possible. The wine list does the food justice, which is no mean feat. Booking required. www.glass-restaurant.it
10 Il PagliaccioAnthony Genovese’s food, Italian with a touch of Japan, is beautiful in every sense: with an inventiveness and sense of fun that has earned him two Michelin stars. His lengthy wine list runs to 1,300 intriguing options. www.ristoranteilpagliaccio.com
Nina Caplan is an award-winning wine journalist and the author of The Wandering Vine: Wine, The Romans and Me (£16.99, Bloomsbury)
8 MastoThis unpretentious place in Testaccio has a cluttered counter of things to eat and drink. It looks like a delicatessen, because it is one: cheese, salami and prosciutto can all be taken away. At mealtimes, however, they are artfully sliced on huge wooden chopping boards, beside a fine array of wines. Owners Rita and Emiliano keep the atmosphere lively. www.facebook.com/MASTO
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P004_DECSUPP_AUG18.indd 5 31/05/2018 14:33
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