•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

1900 century Turn –of –the –Century

• Charles Dana’s Gibson Look

• Gibson Girl showed a new hour-glass silhouette influenced by a man’s shirt and tie..

• The Leg o’ mutton sleeve gives the shoulder line emphasis.

• Illustrating medium was mostly pencil and wash or fine-point ink. For colour medium water colour.

• 8 heads figure proportion

• Industrial Revolution demanded luxury and workmanship

• The fashion focus moved above the natural waistline and skirt became fluid revealing a bit of leg.

• Buntline was focused creating a more elongated look in the skirt and legs.

• The art of the surrealists and cubists such as cocteau , picasso and matisse had great impact on fashion illustrators such as Erte , Georges lepape and Paul Iribe .

• Watercolor , tempera and gouache with fine line ink outline were prevalent and more frequent.

1916 Pre world war I

• Suffragette movement that resulted in the women’s gaining the right to vote in 1920.

• Boyish silhouette , flattened the chest and dropped the waistline to the end of the torso. Hair cropped with bangs often worn with headbands or hats that grazed the eyebrows .

• Water colour , tempera and gouache techniques with fine-line ink or pencil for details.

• Use of Vellum , a semi coated semi transparent paper with a smooth coated surface .

1920 The Flapper

• Stock Market crashed 1929, the great depression that followed made women long for some glamour in their lives.

• Handkerchief Hemlines lengthened around sensuously shaped body lines.

• Life like postures with slouchy figures, back emphasis, fluttering sleeves and floral patterns were typical .

• Watercolour and gouache brush outline to soften the look of 1930’s sketches.

1930’s The Great Depression

• War Caused the American imports cut off from European Imports .

• American designers rallied to fill the clothing needs of the nation

• Prominent names – Claire McCardell , Adrian and Schiaparelli , Dior

• New Fabrics introduced – Rayon, Nylon.. to fill the gap left by natural fabrics .

• Hats were revealed, exaggerated shoulder lines, Nipped in waistline, accompanied by softly draped skirts that grazed the knee cap. Ankle – strapped platform shoes often complete the look.

• 1947 New look by Dior, shoulder line softer skirt again controlled once again with boning and crinolines.

• Technique Illustrations – exaggerated shoulder line and upper bodice detail, in contrast the waist line appears small, the hipline smooth and the skirts easy and relaxed.

• Water colour , gouache techniques for presentation of fabric details. Pencil details and back views were often included with each fashion ‘’plate’’

• Fabric swatches also came into the presentation

1940’s World War II

• Paralleling the ‘’New Look’’ by Dior , Charles James continued the structured silhouette in America.

• The Shirtwaist with a cardigan and pearls and the fitted sheath were the popular day time look.

• Strapless gown with flute bodice was the gala evening look. • Elizabeth taylor – rred lips , shaped eyebrow and combed hair naturally. • Balenciaga reintroduced the chemise with the sacque dress and bubble.. • Yves saint Laurent popularized the trapeze and A-line/tent silhouettes. • Ideal fashion proportion - cinched tiny waist with a merry widow corset , longer

skirt lengths , ranging from mid-calf just below the knees . • Figure proportion of 8 and ½ heads. • Popular models suzy parker and dovima . creating pencil thin appearance • Water color and gouache, Inks and washes , pencils fastest recording ideas. • Charles James pencil sketches and Bergdorf Goodman . • Typial pose and attitude of 1950Elizabeth taylor and Grace Kelly often idealized in

these sketches.

1950’s Fitted Silhouettes

• Cultural diversity brought eclecticism by the Kennedy administration , the beatles eastern philosophy and Nehru.

• Jackie Kennedy’s Pill box hat saturated the nation designed by Oleg Cassini • Givenchy , Valentino and Norell continued the lady like look. • Miniskirts dominated the market. Mid 1960’ • Mod Look – Mark Quant in London , Andre Courreges , Paco Rabanne and Pierre

Cardin in Paris and Rudi Gernreich in America. • Go go boots ready to walk • The ‘ little girl look’ fostered by the youth movement gave way to an extremely

leggy look. • Heads appeared larger , armhole waist line was high , bustline flat adding child like

apearence . • Bonnie Cashin Sketches reflect the exuberance and energy of the decade

combining child like quality with sophistication. • Felt tip markers introduced in 1960’s as the new quick media . instant drying

capacity . • Magic markers and black Flo-master pens .

1960’s Fashion Revolution

• Hemline options from mini to midi and then to maxi allowed for more self expression and creative dressing.

• Yves Saint Laurent’s rich and luxurious peasant. Wrapped heads with lots of natural hair , ethnic jewellery and boots completed the look. #American designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Geoffrey Neene and Halston Became prominent contenders in world wide fashion .

• Popular layered look and abundance of natural hair brought the need to elongate the figure proportion. A tall figure to carry multi layers.

• Watercolour and gouache techniques prevailed , magic markers became the popular new rendering media.

• Breaking away from traditional approaches gave way to an individualism and the emergence of many different styles.

1970’s Length Options

• Japan became an important design resource • Issey Miyake and Rei Kowakubo experimented a lot with architectural

approaches in design combining with ancient japanese traditional techniques.

• For the first time eastern and western design philosophies became one. • London introduced ‘Punk’ , designers like Zandra Rhodes were inspired by

it. • Calvin Klein , Ralph Lauren , Norma Kamali and Donna Karan dominated

American Design. • Giorgio Armani in Milan pioneered the new , softly tailored suit , skillfully

translating men’s wear to feminine form. • Marker and colored pencil continued to be popular among designers . • Jonathan Hitchcock’s clean illustrates both fabric and detail. • Jennifer George emphasizes the padded shoulder .

1980’s Power Dressing

• Haven proven themselves women retained their feminine style of dressing.

• Introduced by Giorgio Armani , Calvin Klein and Victor Alfaro ‘’The Slip’’ Dress became a new classic.

• Mix of long and short , Layered and Spare look.

• Importance of Under garments popularized , bringing the eye to the shape of the body .

• Design Sketches of 90’s demonstrate great diversity and individuality .

• Computer generated techniques came in the picture , flat and graphic use of markers created modern silhouette.

• Soft pastels , ink , and wash by Karl Lagerfeld have a subtle, hand-wrought quality associated with the couture.

1990’s Retro Revisited

• Flat sketches became more important with the focus on the mass market. Becoming an essential link between design concept and the final production of the garment.

• Conceptual sketches usually in a rough form, continue to initiate the design development process.

• Inspirational Photos, research, notes and fabric swatches often accompany these rough sketches.

• Later these roughs are developed into colour flat sketches to clarify coordination and proportion.

• These sketches to be given to the stores by designers as the collection salon book.

• Rendering on the fashion croque are often a combination of selling tool manifesting the design coordination of the collection .

• The body posture , hairstyles, make up and accessories all of which contribute to the total fashion look or message.

• ‘’ The Look ‘’ will continue to be a vital element of the fashion portfolio in 2000 and beyond.

2000 And Beyond Individuality And Eclecticism

• Paul Iribe – French Designer and Journalist (1883-1935)

• Carl Erickson – American (1891-1958)

• Christian Berard – French Artist ( 1902-1949)

• Sir Cecil Walter Hardy Beaton – English Artist (1904-1980)

• Rene Gruau – Italian (1909-2004)

• Irwin Crosthwait – canadian ( 1914-1981)

• Lila De Nobili – Italian Fashion artist ( 1916-2002)

Paul Iribe – French Designer and Journalist (1883-1935)

• Iribe was with Coco Chanel, at her villa, La Pausa, on the French Riviera

• Their modernist style, informed by both the vitality of the revolutionary art movements of the era, and by the flat planes and minimalism identified with Japanese painting served to revitalize the popularity of the “fashion plate.”

Carl Oscar August Erickson

Christian Berard – French Artist ( 1902-1949)