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FABRICS
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History and Developmentof Textile Fabric Industry
First mechanized spinning process developed in
England in the 18th century. Fibers could now be
twisted into yarn at a rapid pace.
First U.S. yarn mill was built in Pawtucket, RhodeIsland, 1790.
Because of higher demand, yarn mills needed
faster weaving, hence the first power loom in
America in 1814.
The industry grew rapidly, with demand for goods
far exceeding supply.
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INTRODUCTION
The termfabric is derivedfromthe latinterm fabrica
meaninga workshop. Fabric therefore refers toany
material made throughweaving, knittingor bonding.
It canthus be classifiedonthe methods of
manufacturingas :
WovenKnitted
Non-woven
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WOVEN CATEGORY
Woven fabric is created by the interlacing of the warp fibres and weft fibresi n
a regular pattern or a weave style. The integrity of the fabric is maintained
by the interlocking of the fibres.
The common weaves of a woven fabric are:
PLAIN: the warp and the weft are so aligned that they form a criss cross
pattern. TWILL: the crossing of the weft and the warp yarns areare offset to give a
diagonal pattern.
SATIN: It is basically the twill weave which is modified to produce fewer
intersections of warp and weft.
BASKET: Two warp fibers alternately interlace with two or more weft fibers.
Examples: cotton , silk etc.
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NON WOVEN CATEGORY
It is a sheet or a web structure, produced byinterlocking layers or networks of fibres or
filaments usually by a chemical bonding.
Examples: tissue paper etc
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KNITTED CATEGORY
It completely consists of horizontal parallel courses of a yarn. These
courses are joined to each other by inter locking loops, where a short
loop of one course of the yarn is wrappedo over another course.Knitted
fabric is obtained either by a hand knitted process or by a machine.
There are two types of knitted fabrics:
WEFT KNITTED-it is either done by hand or
machine by looping together the lengths of a yarn.
WARP KNITTED-it is made by machine only . the loops in this kind offabrics interlock vertically along the length of the fabric.
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Cotton /man-made fabric textile
Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu & Gujarat
Silk -Mysore-(75%)
Assam(Sualkuchi is famous)
Banaras,Murshidabad,Kanchipuram,surat
Wollen-Punjab(40%)
Haryana(27%)Rajasthan(10%)
U.P,Maharashtra,Gujarat(23%)
Jute-West Bengal-61jute mills
Andhra Pradesh-7
U.P and Bihar -3 each
Assam,Orissa,Tripura,M.P- 1 mill each
Centres of production
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Cotton Silk Wool Jute
China China Australia India
USA Thailand China Bangladesh
India USA Mangolia China
Centers of production world wide
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Under government scheme- 16%
Co-orperatives - 10% Privately owned - 74%
Ownership in organized
fabric manufacturing sector
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Commercial handlooms- Mainly in T.N, A.P and U.P.
Production in the handloom sector recorded a figure of
6947 million sq. meters in the year 2007-08.During
2008-09, production in the handloom sector is reported
to be 6,677 million sq. meters.
Power looms- Contributes about 70% of the total cloth
production of the country and provides employment to
about 54.00 lakh people. This sector as whole produce
40%of nations output of cotton and 45% of blended
cotton.
Maharashtra, T.N and Gujarat have approx 77% ofpowerloom centres.
Co-operative owned sectors
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House hold enterprises-Mainly
concentrated in T.N, Maharashtra,
Gujarat, U.P and Karnataka.
Looms are operated with the assistance
of family members and fabric is sold in
local markets.
Privately owned sectors
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Key players in India
Withturnover of USD279millions, Specialisinginworstedfabric, wool andblendedfabric, stretchdenim
fabric, cottonandlinenshirtingfabric, readymadegarments, woolenblankets andhomefurnishings
Annual turnover of USD231million, produces suitings, shirtings, sarees, towels, bedlinenandmens
apparel. Significant exporter of polycottonblendedfabrics andmadeups
Annual turnover of USD338million, exports tomorethan70countries.Produces denimfabric, cotton
andblendedfabric, knittedfabric, voiles, apparel
Turnover of USD400million&Significant presenceinacrylicfibre, cotton, syntheticandblendedspun
yarns, greyandprocessedfabrics, cottonandsyntheticsewingthreads
Indias largest exporter of readymadegarments, havingturnover of USD180million
Supplies tomorethan100retailers andfashionbrands across 39countries
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Leadingproducer of silkyarns andfabric(mainlyfor decorativeandbridal use), withannual turnover of
USD32million, alsointhebusiness of homefurnishings.
Key players in India
Amongst thetop3terrytowel producers intheworld, withannual turnover of USD132million,
production includes cottonyarns, polyester filament yarn, bathrobes, buttons andsawpipes.
Belongs tooneof themost diversifiedbusiness groups inIndia(AdityaBirlaGroup) andhas turnover of
USD577million, specialisingintextiles whichincludeviscosefilament yarnandbrandedapparel; other
interests includeinsurance, telecom, IT, carbonblack
Havingturnover of USD303million, companyis amajor producer of polyester yarns,
fabrics, garments andtextiles
Has thelargest compositetextilemill inIndiafor producingcottonfabric
Havingaturnover of USD95million, its products includeviscosefilament yarn, viscose10/03/09
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International Players
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There are several other industry specific advantages
arising out of the unique nature of the industry in India
Indiahas arichrawmaterial base, especiallycottonwhichhas seenimprovedproductivityinthecountryunder theCotton
TechnologyMission
Widevarietyof cottonproducedIndia, makingIndiacapableof cateringtovarious segments of worldtrade
Indianindustryhas abilitytohandledifferent materials - cotton, wool, silkandjutewithequal skill
Positivedevelopments intheTextilePolicy
Govt incentiveschemes oncottonexports likeDEPB.
Fiscal anomalies interms of excisedutystructureremoved
Flexibilityinproduction
Capabilities across theentirevaluechainwithinthecountryreduces leadtimefor productionandreduces intermediateshipping
time
Indiancompanies haveflexibilityandskilledmanpower tohandlesmall orders withcomplexdesigns
Product development anddesigncapabilities
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India has a cost advantage vis--vis
competing countries
2.35
0.70
0.06
2.51
0.65
0.04
2.31
0.60
0.07
2.17
0.61
0.06
Cost competitiveness
Yarn: USDperkgof yarn
Fabric: USDperyardof fabric
1.68
0.55
0.18
1.40
0.51
0.14
0.55
0.20
2.06
0.59
0.21
1.90
Open-endedyarn&fabric Ringyarn&fabric Texturedyarn&fabric
Yarn
Wovenfabric
Knittedfabric
2.68
0.75
1.22
2.76
0.69
1.21
2.61
0.65
1.21
2.45
0.66
1.12
SouthKorea
China
Brazil
India
India is cost competitive vis--vis competing countries in textile
production, except in case of textured yarn and fabric
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Many foreign players have
also entered India
Top10buyersinIndia(Gap, Wal-Mart, Li &Fung, TheChildrensPlace, JCPenny, H&M, Federated, FifthAvenue, Carrefour and
SynergiesIndia) account for 35%of total textilessourcedfromIndia
Other major companiesincludeEl Corte, Ecko, Kellwood, VFCorporation, Tesco, Next, Karstadt-Quelle
Buyingandliaisonoffices
Brandlicensing- HugoBoss, TommyHilfiger, Mango, Lovable, Nike, Lacoste
Master franchisee- Marks&Spencer, Crocodile
Brandlicensing/ franchising
Manufacturing/ manufacturing
cumretailing
VFArvindBrands- joint venturebetweenArvindBrandsandVFCorporationtomanufactureandsell lattersbrandsinIndia
Benetton
Levi Strauss
Reebok
CarremanMichel Thierry
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Trends in fabric production
Itemsunits 1999-
20002000-
012001-
022002-
032003-04 2004-05
Cotton Million
sq.mtr.
18989 19718 19769 19300 18040 20488
Blended Million
sq.mtr.
5913 6351 6287 5876 6068 6000
100%Non-cotton
(including
Khadi, Wool &
Silk)
Million
sq.mtr.
14306 14164 15978 16797 18275 18200
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Global Dimensions
Post-quota period, a major sourcing destination for new buyers.
India's position in the global trade in textiles and clothing
India's percentage share in global textiles and clothing trade
was 4% in textiles, and 2.8% in clothing during the year 2007.
India's rank in world trade has been 7th in textiles and 6th in
clothing.
USA and the EU, account for about 2/3 of textiles exports.
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Current export scene
Exports cotton yarn and fabrics, man-made yarn and fabrics,
wool and silk fabrics exported to more than a hundred
countries.
Cotton fabrics -constitute more than 2/3rd of our exports of all
fabrics increase of 23.14% in 2007-08.. decline of 11.39%
April December 2008
Man-made fabrics: recorded an increase of 12.07% in 2006-
07 over the exports during the previous year.
Silk fabricrecorded a a decline of 6.88% in 2007-08 over the
exports during the previous year.
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Impact of global recession
Economic slow down in international markets
Liquidity crunch
Appreciation of Indian rupee vis--vis the US dollar in 2007-08 landed
the fabric exports in a difficult situation
Increased cost of production due to increasing raw material costs ,power
and other input costs which affected the profitability of textiles in India
and their exports Indias share in global textiles and clothing exports in 2007declined to
4% and 2.8%, respectively from 4.3% and 3.3% in 2006
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Government introduced two packages of duty concessions,
tax and interest rebates in December, 2008 and January, 2009 toprovide stimulus to the economy in general to combat the recession.
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