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Performance
garment
/
Sportswear
design
and evaluation
功能性运动服装的设计与性能检测
Dr. Junyan Dr. Junyan Hu Hu Senior research fellow Senior research fellow
胡军岩 胡军岩 高级研究员 高级研究员
Tel: 852 27664206 Fax: 852 27731432Email: [email protected]
ITC, The ITC, The HKPolyU HKPolyU
香港理工大学纺织制衣系 香港理工大学纺织制衣系
Content内容
• Lab Introduction
实验室介绍
• Performance Garment design
功能服装的设计
• THERMAL SIMULATION
计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能
• Fabric Functional Properties Characterization
织物功能面料特性检测
• Physiological influence of Functional Material功能材料的生理影響
• Summary
结语
1. Bio‐functional Textile Research lab
生物功能纺织品研究室
ITF Research Projects
创新基金资助项目
高性能運動服與裝置
High‐Performance Sportswear
and Devices (ITP/014/08TP)
Heat production within activemuscle and its transfer to skin andsportswear
运动肌产热及其在皮肤和运动服装间的传递
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Physiological Wear Trials生理测试
Competition wear HPRW
Physiological study of cycling wear自行車服的生理效應研究
CommercialHPCW
Cooperate with Hong Kong
elite athletes與香港精英運動員們的合作
日期: 09.08.2008運動:划艇
活動: 2008北京奧運會
Photo took on 2nd Dec, 2009 at train center (Rowing)
http://www.hkolympic.org/imagecatalogue/c_popup_photo_gallery/3635
EAG 2009 Hong KongSource: http://2009eagarchive.lcsd.gov.hk/tc/news/gallery.php?catid=160
Hong Kong elite athletes in HPSWOlympic Game 2008
http://www.daylife.com/photo/08vx9cDf8OffW
2. Performance Garment design功能服装的设计
‐Requirements 消費者需求
• A safe product
• An environmentally friendly product
•
Collaboration of Technology
and Fashion
科技與時尚的結合
•A comfort product
Clothing
system
R a d i a t i o n
Convection
C o n d u
c t i o n
R a d i a t i o n
Convection
C o n d u
c t i o n
Human BodyPhysiolo ical
Clothing System
EnvironmentalP s
Thermal & Moistureexchange
Human BodyPhysiolo ical
Clothing System
EnvironmentalP s
Thermal & Moistureexchange
Brain
Individual
PsychologicalPerception
OverallComfort
Reactions:
•Shivering•Voluntaryexercise•Sweating•… Body
Condition
h y s i c al
t i m ul i
Physical stimuli
Physiologicalprocess
Decodingstimuli
NeuropsychologicalProcess
ysca process
Psychological Process
Brain
Individual
PsychologicalPerception
OverallComfort
Reactions:
•Shivering•Voluntaryexercise•Sweating•… Body
Condition
h y s i c al
t i m ul i
Physical stimuli
Physiologicalprocess
Decodingstimuli
NeuropsychologicalProcess
ysca process
Psychological Process
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Thermoregulatory
control system
The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation,George Havenith, Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of HumanSciences, LoughboroughUniversity, LE11 3TU
In the aspect of thermal comfort:著裝過程中的熱舒適
-Heat losses In a neutral environment
During exercise, these percentages could be reversed.
Source: The skin’s role in human thermoregulation and comfort P. 563
In the aspect of fitness:著裝過程中的體形變化
Key stretch points on the body
Source: Textiles in Sports, P205
Psychological sensory comfort‐ Clothing comfort dimensions
TactileTactile
PricklePrickleItchItch
RoughRoughScratchScratch
l a m m y
l a m m y
l d l d
TactileTactile
PricklePrickleItchItch
RoughRoughScratchScratch
l a m m y
l a m m y
l d l d
ThermalThermal--wetwet
PressurePressure
D a m
p
D a m
p
H o t
H o t
C C
S t i c k y
S t i c k y
Stiff Stiff SoftSoftSnugSnug
SmoothSmoothLooseLoose
ThermalThermal--wetwet
PressurePressure
D a m
p
D a m
p
H o t
H o t
C C
S t i c k y
S t i c k y
Stiff Stiff SoftSoftSnugSnug
SmoothSmoothLooseLoose
Thermal-wet comfort
• Sensations involving temperature and moisture
sultry damp clingy
clammy hot cold
stick
17
...
• Thermal receptors
• Transport properties of clothing
heat transfer
moisture transfer
air permeability…
Tactile comfort
• Direct fabric‐skin mechanical interactions
prickly scratchy itchy
rough sticky…
18
• Pain receptors in skin
• Fabric surface/mechanical properties
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Pressure comfort
• The space allowance between the body and the
garment
• Fabric bulk mechanical behaviours and overall fitness of
19
garment
• The pressure receptors in skin
• A number of synthetic sensations
loose heavy lightweight
soft stiff snug…
International Standards for thermal comfort
clothing有關熱舒適的一些國際標準
• ISO 7243, Hot environments — Estimation of the heat stress on working man, based on the WBGT‐index (wet bulb
globe temperature)
• ISO 7726, Thermal environments — Instruments and methods for measuring physical quantities
• ISO 7730, Moderate thermal environments — Determination of the PMV and PPD indices and specification of the
conditions for thermal comfort
• ISO 8996, Ergonomics — Determination of metabolic heat production
• ISO 7933, Hot environments — Analytical determination and interpretation of thermal stress using calculation of
re uired sweat rate
• ISO 9886, Evaluation of thermal strain by physiological measurements
• ISO 9920, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Estimation of the thermal insulation and evaporative resistance
of a clothing ensemble
• ISO 10551, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Assessment of the influence of the thermal environment using
subjective judgment scales
• ISO/TR 11079, Evaluation of cold environments — Determination of required clothing insulation (IREQ)
• ISO 13732 (all parts), Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Methods for the assessment of human responses to
contact with surfaces
• ISO 12894, Ergonomics of the thermal environments — Medical supervision of individuals exposed to extreme hot or
cold environments
• ISO 13731, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Vocabulary and symbols
Cold environments and people with special
requirements
• Working in cold environments – be exposed to severe conditions
• in the home,
• during outdoor activities,
• sporting activities or
• during transportation.
• Wind chill is commonly encountered in cold climates;
• Low temperatures
• cold
stress – climatic conditions under which the body heat exchange is just equal to or too large for heat balance at the expense of significant and sometimes uncompensable physiological strain (heat debt)
ISO 11079:2007(E)
• 1 met is 58.15 W/m2.
• A sleeping person has a rate of 0.7 met, and
reclining awake is 0.8 met.
• Office work is 1.2 met: a mostly seated activity
but one that involves occasional moving about.
• Walking slowly (0.9 m/s, or 2 mph) is 2 met,
moderate walking (1.2 m/s or 2.7 mph) is 2.6
met, and fast walking (1.8 m/s or 4 mph) is 3.8
met ( ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals, 2005). • Swimming ranges from 4 to 8 met, and jogging 8
to 12 met (Brooks et al., 1996). • The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%,
Metabolic rates of
different activities不同運動條件下的新陳代謝率
with 85% of total energy released as heat
Source: ISO 8996
Requirements for protection
• A method (and international standard) has been proposed that determines the required clothing
insulation (IREQ) as a function of ambient climate and activity (ISO/DIS‐11079, 2004).
Exposure time and at different combinations of
ambient temperature
Ref: ISO 11079, Metabolic rate 110WM-2
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Cooling power of wind
Source: ISO 11079
Problems of in winter clothing冬季服裝系統常見問題
• Insufficient thermal insulation in winter: – chilling of the body
– Hypothermia• frostbite, discomfort, impaired judgment, reduced capacity to work and poorer
endurance.
• especially in the hands and forearms, causes deterioration of manual sensitivity
and agility.
• harder to memorize and learn new things
• Over protection: – Thick clothing obstruct movement.
– Heavy
– Sweating, heat stress
• Cold environment come with snow, ice and wind
3.THERMAL SIMULATION
Sweating出汗
•• Insensible evaporative heat lossesInsensible evaporative heat losses
– about 100 to 150 ml per day per m2 of skin surface
The maximum sweat rate The maximum sweat rate •1liter/hour
• an unacclimatizedperson seldom reaches.
•2–3 liter/hour•a well-acclimatized person
•When evaporated,•removes about ten times the basal body heatproduction.
(Guyton and Hall, 2000).
Thermal physiologicalrequirements
熱生理需求
Running
Thermal Function
Moisture Function
running
Sweat Dissemination
The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation,George Havenith,Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of Human Sciences,Loughborough University, LE11 3TU
S-Smart软件
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Computer simulations for biomechanical performances
計算機仿真生物力學特性Fabric important properties
織物功能特性• Stretch
– to ensurer clothing doesn't restrict body movement and performance.
• Moisture management
– to ensure skin stays dry, thus minimizing:
– (a) evaporation from the skin which results in rapid heat and energy loss;
– (b) friction between clothing and the body and therefore reduced irritation.
• – for protection from the elements while maintaining a comfortable personal
microclimate.
• Temperature control – buffering against temperature swings between periods of activity and rest.
• Light weight – to enhance performance and conserve energy as less weight is carried.
• High strength and durability
– to protect the wearer and their clothes.
Pure Cotton Moisture Management Fabric with Nano
Technology
全棉差別導水織物
Normal pure cotton fabric全棉面料
Moisture management pure cotton fabric全棉差別導水面料
4. Fabric Functional Properties Characterization
‐4.1 Evaluation of moisture transfer properties
99
88
Standards
making Design principle
0 20
36
.
Influenced by影响因素:
•components of the water水的成份
•water content in the fabric面料中的含水量
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Typical moisture transfer behaviorU
Water Proof / Repellent fabric
U
Slow absorbing, slow spreading and very poor moisture management
fabric
Quick absorption and poor one-way transport Fabric
U
Absorbent and quick dry fabric
U
Good absorbent moisture management fabric
U
Excellent absorbent moisture management fabric
典型織物水傳遞特征
61#
典型織物水傳遞特征
17#
典型織物水傳遞特征
58#
4.2 Fabric Tactile
Comfort Tester
接触感觉测量
ΔT=10 ˚C
41Y Li, JY Hu , Lubos Hes, Textile Fabric Testing, US. 6,601,457 B2
4.3 Characterization of fabric
thermal radiation properties红外輻射特性测量
1.21.21.21.21.2
42
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Time(min)
I R i n t e n s i t y ( v )
t r 1t r 2 t
r 3
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Time(min)
I R i n t e n s i t y ( v )
t r 1t r 2 t
r 3
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
I R i n t e n s i t y ( v )
t t 1 t t 2 t t3
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
I R i n t e n s i t y ( v )
t t 1 t t 2 t t3
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
I R i n t e n s i t y ( v )
t t 1 t t 2 t t3
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
I R i n t e n s i t y ( v )
t t 1 t t 2 t t3
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
I R i n t e n s i t y ( v )
t t 1 t t 2 t t3
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4.4 Characterization of fabric thermal and
moisture transfer properties
FanJ andYS Chen Measurement
43
, . . . , .
Science Technology, 2002. 13: p.1115-1123.
Stan, a thermal manikin atKansas State University, isused to measure the insulation
provided by cold weatherclothing.http://www.astm.org/SNEWS/SO_2009/f2360_so09.html
Typical measurement results on the skin surface
Measurements on Skin Surface
1
120
140
160
180
200
) , H e a t f l u x W / m ^ 2
1120
1130
1140
1150
s k i n m o d e l ( g )
t1 t2 t3 t 4 t 5
Measurements on Skin Surface
1
120
140
160
180
200
) , H e a t f l u x W / m ^ 2
1120
1130
1140
1150
s k i n m o d e l ( g )
t1 t2 t3 t 4 t 5
Weight
Heat f l ux
Measurements on Skin Surface
1
120
140
160
180
200
) , H e a t f l u x W / m ^ 2
1120
1130
1140
1150
s k i n m o d e l ( g )
t1 t2 t3 t 4 t 5
Measurements on Skin Surface
1
120
140
160
180
200
) , H e a t f l u x W / m ^ 2
1120
1130
1140
1150
s k i n m o d e l ( g )
t1 t2 t3 t 4 t 5
Weight
Heat f l ux
44
0
20
40
60
80
0 5000 10000 150 00 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000
Time (s )
T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) , R H (
1080
1090
1100
1110
R Hs Ts H Fs w eight
W e i g h t c h a n g e o f
0
20
40
60
80
0 5000 10000 150 00 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000
Time (s )
T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) , R H (
1080
1090
1100
1110
R Hs Ts H Fs w eight
W e i g h t c h a n g e o f
RH
Temperature
0
20
40
60
80
0 5000 10000 150 00 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000
Time (s )
T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) , R H (
1080
1090
1100
1110
R Hs Ts H Fs w eight
W e i g h t c h a n g e o f
0
20
40
60
80
0 5000 10000 150 00 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000
Time (s )
T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) , R H (
1080
1090
1100
1110
R Hs Ts H Fs w eight
W e i g h t c h a n g e o f
RH
Temperature
1. Dynamic contact process; 2. Insensitive perspirationsteady state;
3. Dynamic sweating process; 4. Dynamic wetting process;
5. Steady wetted state; 6. Drying process
1hr 3hr 6hr
Typical measurement results on the fabric
bottom surface
Mrasurements on Fbaric BottomSurface
85
95
105
1130
1140
1150
)RH
Weight
Mrasurements on Fbaric BottomSurface
85
95
105
1130
1140
1150
)RH
Weight
45
15
25
35
45
55
65
75
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000
Time(s)
T e m p e r a t u
r e ( ℃ ) , R H ( % )
1080
1090
1100
1110
1120
R Hfb1 Tfb1 we ight
W e i g h t c h a n g e o f s k i n m o d e l (
Temperature
15
25
35
45
55
65
75
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000
Time(s)
T e m p e r a t u
r e ( ℃ ) , R H ( % )
1080
1090
1100
1110
1120
R Hfb1 Tfb1 we ight
W e i g h t c h a n g e o f s k i n m o d e l (
Temperature
Typical measurement results on the fabric
upper surface
Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface
100
120
1130
1140
1150
( g )
Weight
Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface
100
120
1130
1140
1150
( g )
Weight
46
0
20
40
60
80
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000
Time (s)
T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) R H ( 5 )
1080
1090
1100
1110
1120
R Hf u1 T fu 1 w ei gh t
W e i g h t c h a n g e
o f s k i n m o d e l
RH
Temperature
0
20
40
60
80
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000
Time (s)
T e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ ) R H ( 5 )
1080
1090
1100
1110
1120
R Hf u1 T fu 1 w ei gh t
W e i g h t c h a n g e
o f s k i n m o d e l
RH
Temperature
5. Physiological influence
of Functional Material功能材料的生理影響
Wear Trials
穿著試驗
Effect of Phase Change Material of Energy Consumption of
Clothing Assembly
Skin
33 ℃
Environment
-15 ℃Layer-3
Layer-4
Environment temperature: -15℃
NonwovenPolyester
The SecondLayer
WaterproofBreathable
Fabric
Cotton
48
Structure of the clothing assembly Sensor location
Layer-1
Layer-2
Skin temperature33℃ Humidity Sensor
Temperature Sensor
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5.00
10.00
15.00
20.00
25.00
30.00
35.00
e m p e r a t u r e ( ℃ )
the clothing assembly A
the clothing assembly C
Dew point
25.5℃
IW_CLW_CWV_C
49
-15.00
-10.00
-5.00
0.00
0.00 5.00 10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00
Thickness(mm)
T
DL2
Di1
DL1
Di2 IW_ALW_AWV_A Frozen point
0℃
Comparison of temperature distributions in clothing assemblies A(Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric without heating)
and C (Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric with heating)
Bronze award at IENA 2006
• Bronze award at IENA 2006, ITPC – Intelligent Thermal Protective Clothing
System, 2‐5 Nov‐2006, Nuremberg, Germany
Correlations between OMMC and clammy
綜合水份管理特性與濕粘感覺間的關係
Correlations between OMMC and dampness
綜合水份管理特性與潮濕感覺間的關係
IR images analysis
:
Experimental Protocol
• Environment 环境条件:
– Temperature: 33ºC
– RH: 40%
– IR camera 红外摄像机: Nikon Laird S‐270
– Physical exercise Rate 运动强度 4miles/ hr 英里/小时
• Special designed T shirt (left part is knitted MMF, right part is normal pure cotton knitted fabric with same structure.)
特殊设计的T恤 (左半部为针织液态水管理面料 ,右半部为相同结构的全棉普通针织面料)
Results結果
Stage one: Running at 4 miles/hr第一階段:以4英里 / 小時速度跑步
MMF Normal MMF Normal MMF Normal•Warm liquidarrive outsurface
•No evaporation
Time时间 (min分钟)
0 8 28
Beginning
开始
began to sweat
开始出汗Heavy sweating
出大汗
•More area ofevaporation
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Result 结果(2)
Stage two: Standing rest after 30 minutes running
第二階段:跑步30分鐘後,立停休息
MMF Normal MMF Normal
Dry & Warm
Time 时间(min分钟)
75 85
45 55 (rest)
Damp,Cold
Results (3)Skin temperature distribution when take off shirt after 80 minutes rest
休息80分鐘後,除下T恤後皮膚表面的溫度分佈情況
Dry & Warm
Back view at take off shirt
刚除下T恤
Back view after 70seconds
除下T恤70秒后
Damp,Cold
Summary
结语
• Collaboration of Technology and Fashion科技與時尚的結合
– Clothing system design –
• Comfort requirement – 舒适性的需求
Contact information
联系方法
Contact information
联系方法
Dr. Junyan HU
MN104,MN104, Institute of Textiles and Clothing
Tel: 852 27664206
Fax: 852 27731432
Email: [email protected]
Acknowledgement
致谢
We would like to thank HK Innovation Technology Commission
and HKPOLYU for the funding of this research through projects
ITS‐051‐02, ITP‐001‐07TP and ITP‐031‐08TP