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Chapter 5
GENERAL QUALITY ASSURANCE POLICY OVERVIEW FOR APPAREL
AND FOOTWEAR
Internal Inspection Policy
All merchandise received in the DXL Group Distribution Center in Canton, MA is inspected for
conformance to quality and measurement specifications. If the selected samples pass these
criteria, the entire shipment is accepted. If the samples fail the inspection, the entire shipment
stays on QA Hold.
The procedure used is the Single Sampling Plan taken from the American National Standard
Institute ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, published by the American Society of Quality Control.
The disposition of shipments placed on QA Hold is made based on discussions with the Global
Sourcing, Quality Assurance, Technical and Merchandising teams in Canton, MA. If the
deviation from the standards is determined to be significant, the following process may be
adopted:
100% inspection and / or correct at either DXL Group’s DC or an outside audit and
repair service
100% inspection and / or correct at the Vendor
Return to Vendor all defective units (RTV)
Both DXL Group and vendor should agree upon the final disposition of a shipment. If 100%
inspection or any correction occurs, charges will be assessed to the vendor for operating, labor
and possibly loss of sales incurred in resolving the problems and delaying the distribution of
goods into our retail channels. For more information on our charge-backs and RTV policies,
please refer to the charge-backs section of this manual.
All correspondence should be sent to:
Testing/Final Random Inspection: [email protected]
Quality Control/Compliance: [email protected]
1. Merchandise Quality Standards
Classification of Defects:
Three defect classifications (critical, major and minor) have been selected that will be used to
classify types of defects (refer to appendix 4). Only critical and major defects will be considered
when applying the sampling plan. The defect descriptions follow:
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Critical: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the consumer or
end user.
Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a
shipment.
Major: Any defect that adversely affects the appearance or performance of a product, including
fit or customer satisfaction.
Any defect that is likely to materially reduce the usefulness of the product, or is likely to result in
failure, is also a major defect. The consumer would normally be unwilling to accept such a
defect, resulting in a return or complaint. Any major defects must be corrected and re-inspected
before shipment leaves factory floor.
Minor: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major,
and would not provide a discerning customer with justification for return or complaint.
The defect would not materially reduce the usefulness of the product, nor is it likely to result in
failure.
Please refer to Appendix 4 for Defect Terms and Classifications
Location of Defects:
The location of a defect is important in determining its classification (i.e., major or minor). Two
defect zones (A and B) have been selected for all merchandise categories.
Zone A: Identified as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is of major
importance. i.e., center front, center back, top of sleeves
Zone B: Identified as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is important
but only of minor importance. i.e., lower hem, underarm, under-sleeves, sides of the
body.
Please see sample sketches of defect locations at the end of this chapter
2. Sampling Plan Parameters:
Lot Size
The lot size is the amount received in one purchase order from the vendor. The lot can include all
colors and sizes from one style received from the vendor in the purchase order. Sampling plan is
based on each purchase order.
Use of Sub-Lots
When necessary, additional information may be needed concerning part of the total lot. A sub-lot
consisting of a separate color of a SKU within the lot, or even a separate size, may be selected for
inspection. In these cases, a sub-lot (i.e., one color or one size) may be accepted even though the
rest of the main lot is rejected. It is also possible to fail a sub-lot, though the rest of the main lot
is accepted.
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Fabric Inspection
Bulk fabric quality inspection should be performed at mill level. Fabric inspection reports must be
submitted to DXL Group and written approvals must be received from DXL Group prior to cutting
bulk fabrics.
4 Points System
Penalty points are assigned for each defect according to the length thereof as set forth in the
following table:
Size of Defects (length in inches) Number of Penalty Points
3” or less 1
Over 3” but less than 6” 2
Over 6” but less than 9” 3
Over 9” 4
Note:
No one yard should have more than 4 penalty points.
Any holes (2 or more broken ends) will be awarded 4 points.
Any running defect more than 4 continuous yards will cause the roll to be rejected.
Final Random Inspections (FRI)
Performed to assure all units shipped are first quality merchandise, packaged, packed and shipped
in full compliance with DXL Group requirements. FRI should be conducted when 80% of goods
are produced and packed. All FRIs must be performed for each individual style and PO. Final
random inspections for the same style across multiple PO’s may be performed only with prior DXL
Group approval. FRIs cannot consist of multiple styles without prior authorization.
In-Line (During production) audits to be performed for each operation by factory/agent QA.
DXL Group may request in line inspection reports periodically.
For agents: FRI and Compliance inspection reports must be sent to DXL Group’s QA team at
least 72 hours before shipment departs.
For vendors/factories: All vendors and factories must use Bureau Veritas for final random
inspection (unless otherwise agreed upon between DXL Group and the factory/vendor) on all DXL
Group private label merchandise. Bureau Veritas inspection services require a 2 week advance
booking from your ex-factory date. FRI and Compliance Inspection reports must be approved by
DXL Group 72 hours before shipments exit factory.
FRI Requirements: All final random inspections are conducted using a 2.5 AQL –
Level II Normal Inspection.
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Final Random Inspection Definitions
Normal Inspection Quantities will be used for inspection of original shipments from any vendor. Normal inspection
will also be used when a vendor changes place of production, materially alters the product, or an
extended period of time (4 months or longer) elapses between receipts. Refer to the AQL Plans
Appendix 1.
Tightened Special Inspection Quantities (larger number of items inspected) will be used after two consecutive shipments of an
item from a vendor have failed normal inspection. When tightened inspection is in effect, normal
inspection will be instituted after two consecutive shipments of an item from a vendor have been
accepted. Refer to Appendix 2.
Reworked Lots All reworked lots or sub-lots must be inspected 100% by either the vendor, DXL Group or by third
party of our choice. All fees and inspection charges will be charged back to vendor. All defective
units must be repaired, cleaned or corrected or cannot be included in a reworked lot. All reworked
lots will be inspected by DXL Group in the same manner as the original lots.
Compliance (Package & Label) Inspection To ensure inventory accuracy, we require a separate inspection procedure on packaging and
labeling (stickers, tickets, jokers, PIDs, UCC128, size labels) based on our normal single sampling
plan, audit level III. Refer to Appendix 2.
There is zero tolerance on inaccurate packing and labeling, the shipment will be
rejected if any single carton fails inspection (unless approved by DXL Group).
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Appendix 1 AQL Normal Inspection Plan
Appendix 2 AQL Tightened Inspection Plan
Appendix 3 AQL Reduced Inspection Plan (with approval by DXL Group)
Lot or Batch Size
Sample Size at General
Inspection Level II
AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection)
Major 2.5 Minor 4.0
Ac Re Ac Re
91 to 150 20 1 2 2 3
151 to 280 32 2 3 3 4
281 to 500 50 3 4 5 6
501 to 1,200 80 5 6 7 8
1,201 to 3,200 125 7 8 10 11
3,201 to 10,000 200 10 11 14 15
10,001 to 35,000 315 14 15 21 22
Lot or Batch Size
Sample Size at General
Inspection Level III
AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection)
Major 1.5 Minor 2.5
Ac Re Ac Re
91 to 150 32 1 2 2 3
151 to 280 50 2 3 3 4
281 to 500 80 3 4 5 6
501 to 1,200 125 5 6 7 8
1,201 to 3,200 200 7 8 10 11
3,201 to 10,000 315 10 11 14 15
10,001 to 35,000 500 14 15 21 22
Lot or Batch Size
Sample Size at General
Inspection Level I
AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection)
Major 2.5 Minor 4.0
Ac Re Ac Re
91 to 150 8 1 2 1 2
151 to 280 13 1 2 1 2
281 to 500 20 1 2 2 3
501 to 1,200 32 2 3 3 4
1,201 to 3,200 50 3 4 5 6
3,201 to 10,000 80 5 6 7 8
10,001 to 35,000 125 7 8 10 11
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FRI Measurement Audit
Sample size: Special inspection level 3 (S-3)
e.g. If the lot size is 12,000 pieces, no. of sample to be measured is 20 pieces.
Acceptable level: Out of tolerance points not more than 10% of measured points.
e.g. If we measured 20 pieces, each piece has 10 measurement points(all measurement
points given on the size specification). Totally, we will measure 200 points. If we found
more than 20 points are out of tolerance, the result will be failed.
Additional condition: If more than 5 measured pieces (same size or in different sizes) are
found out of tolerance on the same primary point (key point of the garment), the result
will be failed too.
e.g. If the chest width of 5 measured pieces found out of tolerance, the result is failed
regardless of the percentage of the out of tolerance points found.
Measurement Audit – Primary Points of Measure Primary points of measure are to be evaluated during measurement audit, following these
guidelines.
Woven Tops: Neck Opening (collar band length): Description: Lay the collar open and flat. Measure
from center of button to far end of buttonhole, following contour of the band.
Chest 1” below armhole
Armhole Circumference
Sleeve Length CBN
Front Length HPS
Across Shoulder
Knit Tops/Sweaters: Chest 1” below armhole
Armhole Circumference
Sleeve Length CBN
Body Length HPS
Across Shoulder
Bottom Sweep (relaxed)
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Bottoms: Waist
Front Rise
Back Rise
Thigh (1” below crotch)
Leg Opening Circumference
Inseam
Seat Width (9” below waistband)
Socks: Leg Length (relaxed): Measure from the top of the leg to the bottom of the heel
Leg Width (relaxed): Measure across the center of the leg from one side to the opposite
side
Foot Length (relaxed): Measure from the back of the heel to the toe
Foot Width (relaxed): Measure across the center of the foot from one side to the opposite
side
Belts: Length
Width
Sport Jacket and Suit Jackets:
Chest 1” below armhole
Half Waist: Measure from the front edge of the jacket going over the top buttonhole to
the center back seam. If jacket is a 3-button, measure over the center buttonhole.
Jacket seat 5” from bottom: Measure 5’ up from bottom and straight across the garment
side to side
Across Shoulder
Back Length CBN
Upper Arm: Measure 1” below arm opening straight across the sleeve
Sleeve Opening (Relaxed)
Sleeve Length Underarm
Vest:
Chest 1’ below armhole
Bottom Sweep (Relaxed)
Across Shoulder
Across Front 8” Down From HPS
Across Back 8” Down From HPS
Front Length HPS
Back Length CBN
Armhole Circumference
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Outerwear (Jacket):
Chest 1’ below armhole
Bottom Sweep (Relaxed)
Body Length HPS
Sleeve Length CBN
Across Shoulder
Armhole Circumference
Knits and Sweaters:
Chest 1’ below armhole
Bottom Sweep (Relaxed)
Across Shoulder
Sleeve Length CBN
Body Length HPS
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QUALITY ASSURANCE POLICY
Testing Policy
DXL Group believes that quality must be built into the product. The purpose of testing is to
assess, achieve and meet our customers’ satisfaction and expectations. Test results confirm
Government Regulatory Compliance and DXL Group’s quality expectations are met. To achieve
this goal we have developed fabric, component and garment test specifications and guidelines that
our vendors/factories have the responsibility to achieve, maintain and to ensure the consistency of
product performance. This focus is part of our ongoing process to continuously improve product
quality.
Our nominated exclusive testing laboratory service provider is Bureau Veritas. For lab contact
information, guidelines and protocols follow the below link
http://www.destinationxl.com/media/content/vendors/
VENDOR/ AGENT / FACTORY RESPONSIBILITY
Follow all testing procedures and testing requirements listed below and in the Bureau
Veritas Protocol Manual.
As a vendor to DXL Group, you are fully responsible for all fabric, garment,
trim/component and special claims testing of production merchandise. You must
guarantee that fabric, garment, trim/component and special claims pass all tests before
production and shipment. The best timing for fabric testing is upon the initial run of
production. The best timing for component, garment and special claims testing is upon
receipt of our order with the correct samples. It is the vendor’s responsibility to ensure
that all necessary tests are done to meet DXL Group requirements. Testing is required for
all products at least once every 6 months, and/or when changes have been made in
production or the supplier has changed. This is also applicable to Core and E3
Replenishment Programs.
Analytical Testing:
Determines if harmful chemicals are present in DXL Group products; and ensures
compliance with U.S. and International regulations.
Nickel Leaching: Any metal trim/component in direct contact to the skin which results
in a positive nickel spot test will require a full Nickel Leaching test at the expense of the
vendor.
AZO Dye Colorants: DXL Group requires that all products are AZO Free or within
the AZO Dye Colorant maximum requirement of <30mg/kg. Therefore, all vendors are
responsible to provide DXL Group with evidence of compliance in the form of a
certificate from an accredited testing laboratory to ensure conformity to the regulation.
This test will be at the expense of the vendor. The AZO Free/AZO Dye Colorant
certificate validity must be maintained by the vendor.
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Formaldehyde Content: DXL Group requires that all products in direct contact with
the skin are within the formaldehyde content maximum requirement of 75 mg/kg.
Lead Testing: Any applicable surface coating or substrate lead test result must not
exceed the maximum allowable limits.
California Proposition 65: All products will be reviewed against the requirements of
California Proposition 65 to determine if additional testing or labeling is required.
Fabric Testing: All fabrics used in DXL Group products must be tested per the appropriate protocol and meet
DXL Group standard test requirements. Bulk production cannot proceed without DXL Group
review and approval.
Pre-production / Development Stage: Newly developed fabrics must go through our
specification testing during development stage to verify the proper finishes, performance
and requirements.
Production Fabric Stage: All bulk fabric testing should occur as soon as the fabric is
correct for construction, color, finish, etc. Testing should be planned accordingly so it
will not delay bulk garment cutting and sewing. Fabric tests will help determine/verify
the care instructions and fiber content labeling for the garment. Bulk fabric must not be
cut until written approval is issued by DXL Group.
Solid/Pattern/Print Fabric: Full fabric test should be done on the first available production
colorway. Other colorways are tested as “Additional Color” by abbreviated protocols.
Fabric used in Color-Blocked Garments: Fabrics must be in the form of a color blocked
mock-up and tested for colorfastness per the care instructions to ensure self-staining does
not occur.
Fabrics containing Wicking and Anti-fade properties: the fabric mill must submit every
color in one submission to Bureau Veritas for testing. Example: If your order for style
KT-1000 includes 20 colors, all 20 colors should be sent together on one trf for testing.
The vendor must contact [email protected]
prior to testing if all colors cannot be submitted together.
Fabric produced for Garment Wash programs:
o Any fabric produced which will be going through a garment wash program must be
tested after the garment wash process.
o Therefore, the fabric mill must send the garment factory two (2) square yards of all
colors in order for the factory to perform the garment wash process.
o Once the garment wash process is complete, the garment factory will be responsible
to send the fabric in all colors to Bureau Veritas for fabric testing. The fabric mill
should advise the factory as to what testing package is required, such as fabric test,
additional color test and/or any special claims.
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o DXL Group will review the completed test reports and advise their comments to the
mill.
o If test failures occur that require improvements and retesting, the mill will make the
necessary improvements and send the improved fabric to the factory with the
retesting instructions.
o The factory will process the fabric once again and send it to Bureau Veritas for
retesting.
o After DXL Group approval, the mill can ship the bulk/improved fabric to the factory.
Trim/Component Testing: ALL trims/components used on DXL Group products must be tested separately per their
respective protocol. Bulk production cannot proceed without DXL Group review and approval.
DXL Group requires trim/component testing prior to the vendor’s commitment to
purchase.
Zippers: DXL Group preferred supplier is YKK. However, local manufacturing brands
will be accepted based on a passing test report from Bureau Veritas. Vendors should
obtain written approval from DXL Group prior to purchasing non YKK zippers. YKK
brand also requires a passing test report from Bureau Veritas.
Shank Buttons: DXL Group preferred supplier is Scovil. However, local manufacturing
brands will be accepted based on a passing test report from Bureau Veritas. Vendors
should obtain written approval from DXL Group prior to purchasing non Scovil shank
buttons. Scovil brand also requires a passing test report from Bureau Veritas.
Buttons and Metal Pins/Clips (used for the Dress Shirt Program): non-breakable buttons
and non-rust pins/clips must be used on all dress shirts. The buttons and metal pins/clips
must pass the applicable tests. See trim/component testing protocols for test
requirements.
Knit/Mesh Lining Insert Trim Fabric (Jacket Relaxer) used for Sport Coats and Suit
Jackets: conduct colorfastness to crocking and perspiration only. See requirements in the
trim/component protocol.
New programs must carry out trim/component testing during development. Repeat
programs must test all trims/components every 6 months and/or when changes have been
made in production or the supplier has changed.
Garment Testing: Is carried out to ensure the fabric, components/trims and garment
construction are compatible and meet DXL Group quality standard requirements. The garment
test assesses and verifies the garment performance and the labeled care instructions. Bulk
production cannot proceed without DXL Group review and approval.
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Full garment testing is required on one color of each style. However, if a garment is
color-blocked, a full garment test is required on one color combination and colorfastness
per the care label is required for each additional color combination.
All production styles have to be garment tested as soon as bulk fabric, trims/components
and labels become available to factory. At times, we may require garment testing during
the sampling stage to verify its performance and functionality.
Sweater Testing: Full testing for sweaters should be done in garment form by style.
Additional colorways can be tested for colorfastness in knit-down panels.
Vendor/agent is responsible to notify labs regarding appropriate protocol, and all special
claims to ensure that proper testing is performed according to DXL Group requirements.
If the garment contains a belt, Protocol 805 must be conducted.
Repeat styles require testing every 6 months if produced by the same factory. Any change
of fabric mill, factory, supplier, trim, component, label, etc. before the 6 month period
will require immediate full testing.
DXL Group reserves the right to reject shipment if the testing program was not
followed or test results were not accepted.
Additional Responsibilities:
Ensure there is a QA & QC process in place, in line with DXL Group’s requirements. At the
beginning of each season’s development, vendor/agent/factory must review all style development
specifics on fabrics, trims/components and fit in order to set a plan for all testing and assurance
protocols.
Arrange testing and inspection based on time and action calendar to avoid any production delay.
Any special claims on performance or special fabrics and garments must be clearly defined at the
time of testing.
Fabric Inspection must be performed at the mill. Fabric inspection test reports are required and
must be approved by DXL Group prior to bulk garment production.
All vendors must use Bureau Veritas as our exclusive nominated inspection service, unless
otherwise agreed upon. All inspection reports must be approved by DXL Group before shipment.
Please contact our QA department for Bureau Veritas inspection instructions.
Inbound QC inspections are conducted by DXL Group for all shipments. If a shipment fails and is
deemed unacceptable based on quality, measurement, product labeling or packaging integrity; the
vendor is responsible for all charges related to the associated re-work. This includes but is not
limited to internal DC charges, transportation to and from 3rd
party, 3rd
party re-work charges, and
cost of damaged goods including freight and duty (LDP cost) and loss of sales. DXL Group is
not responsible for any import duty refund. Return to Vendor goods will be charged back at full
Landed Duty Paid term. All charges related to rework will be deducted from the actual PO or the
next open invoice.
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Appendix 4 Defect Terms and Classification
Packing and Presentation Critical Major Minor
Missing size and care label X
Missing hang tag X
Missing price tickets, price stickers and PIDs X
Price tickets, price stickers and PIDs placed on wrong item X
Wrong UCC128 placement X
Wrong size ratio in pre pack cases X
Wrong SKUs mixed in single SKU cases X
Improper folding X
Soiled/Dirty/Unsealed poly bag X
QTY in case does not match QTY on UCC128 label X
PID applied in the wrong place on polybag X
General Critical Major Minor
Use of monofilament sewing thread that will hurt customer’s skin X
No warning clause on poly bag if required X
Any sharp point/sharp edge on accessories X
Infestation of live insect X
Lack of multi-languages for Fiber Content and Country of Origin (7
languages: English, French, Spanish, Dutch, Italian, German, and
Russian). Lack of bi-lingual Care Instructions (French and
English). Lack of 5 care symbols (Ginetex) on the care label.
X
Needle detected X
Mildew/mold X
Strong odor X
Wet X
Holes
X
Stains
X
Mending place X
Missing bar tack (at significant area if specified) X
Different lots of shade from garment to garment. NEED BUYER'S APPROVAL
X
Cleaning mark X
Shank pulls off during inspection pull test X
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Fabric Critical Major Minor
Fabric flaw / run more than 1/2" at obvious part of a garment X
Fabric flaw / run more than 1" at non-obvious part of a garment X
Hole (any size other than pinhole) X
Wrong or slanted grain line X
Pills on surface (depends on density) X X
Color shade difference within same garment X
Printing fault (depends on obviousness) X X
Barrenness on knitted fabric (depends on obviousness) X X
Permanent crease mark X
Different dye lots ( Needs buyer approval ) X
Accessories Critical Major Minor
Any missing accessory X
Dimension, color, art work or content not as specified X
Button inside out X
Button marking not removed X
Damaged button X
Rusted stud, snap, rivet, buckle, zipper, hook & bar, pins, clips X
Paint peel off on stud, snap and buckle X
Button and buttonhole not aligned causing bulge (depends on
obviousness)
X X
Buttonhole too small to allow button to pass through X
Buttonhole too big X
Uncut / partially cut buttonhole X
Ragged edges at buttonhole X
Broken buttonhole stitches X
Button thread easily pulled out X
Wordings upside down on button / snap X X
Gap at zip top / end (depends on size) X X
Incomplete adhesive on interlining X
Illegible information on accessory X
Fusing bubbles/Wrinkled fuse on interlining X
Sparse embroidery X
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Workmanship and Appearance
***Stitching and Seams Critical Major Minor
Irregular stitch density X X
Loose / tight stitches X X
Crooked stitches (depends on size) X X
Skipped stitches X
Broken stitches X
Run-off stitches 1/4" (depends on size) X X
Blind stitching visible (depends on obviousness) X X
Needle cutting X
Exposed seam grin X
Insufficient seam allowance X X
Pleated seam X X
Seam slippage (If found on more than one garment - Critical) X X
Puckering seam (depends on obviousness) X X
Open seam (any size) X
Seam not fully opened before stitching X X
Exposed under ply seam (depends on obviousness) X X
Abrasion feed mark (depends on obviousness) X X
Uncut thread ends 1" or more X
***Assembling Critical Major Minor
Mismatched stripes, checks or prints over 1/8" X
Asymmetrical collar (depends on obviousness) X X
Uneven collar point 1/4" X X
Facings pulling up X X
Uneven sleeve length 1/2" or more X
Uneven leg length 1/2" or more X
High/low pockets 1/4" or more X
Pocket not smooth / squared (depends on obviousness) X X
Pocket flap not centered over pocket 1/4" (depend on length) X X
Misaligned of cuff / neck 1/4" (depends on length) X X
Uneven hem line (depends on obviousness) X X
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***Washing Critical Major Minor
Different shade lots NEED BUYERS APPROVAL X
Uneven washing effect X
Streaky marks X
Pills / Hairy on garment surface (depends on density) X X
Broken collar / Cuff and Hem (depends on size) X X
Sand on garment surface X
Rocks inside pockets X
Different washing effect (if specified)
NEED BUYER’S APPROVAL PRIOR SHIPPING X
***Pressing Critical Major Minor
Wrinkle (depends on obviousness) X X
Seam not fully pressed open X
Crease mark (depends on seriousness) X X
Burn mark X
Water spot (depends on obviousness) X
Melt X
Glazed / Scorched mark (depends on obviousness) X X
Pleated press X X
Zip / button mark made by improper pressing X
Common defects in specific items
Shirt Critical Major Minor
Collar not symmetrical in size, shape or length (depends on size) X X
Exposed under collar at outside of top collar X
Foreign matter sewn inside the finished collar/yoke/cuff X
Open seam at collar points X
Interlining seen through X X
Flap points not fully turned out X
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Jacket/Outerwear Critical Major Minor
Puckering seam at hood facing (depends on obviousness) X X
Front placket not down to hem 1/4" or more X
Uneven fullness at armhole X
Wrong way insertion of zip (if specified) X X
Snap easily pulled off X
Uneven or loose elasticity on rib/bottom X
Loose quilting stitches X
Malfunctioning of buckle/snap/zipper X
Fabric easily torn at snap position X
A noticeable amount of down percolation on the lining X
Down leakage X
Exposed drill hole X
Incompatible interfacing causing cracking, puckering or bubbling X
Corresponding pockets horizontally uneven or misaligned 1/4" or
more
X
Color yarn caught inside shell fabric but obviously seen from
outside
X
Jeans Critical Major Minor
High-low waistband ends 1/4" or more X
Waistband corners not folded in right shape X
Inclined belt loops X
Mismatched belt loop color (depends on obviousness) X X
Pocket bag caught in tack X X
Missing bartack (at significant area if specified) X
Bulged fly (depends on obviousness) X X
Zip exposed when buttoned X
Rusted studs / rivets X
Twisted leg 1/2" or more X
Holes at hem after stone washing 1/4" or more X
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Knitted T-Shirt Critical Major Minor
Neck opening / collar not symmetrical X
Asymmetric body shape X
Twisted body at side seam 1/2" or more X
Twisted/slanted/curved/pleated placket (depends on obviousness) X X
Exposed row edge at cuff/hem (depends on obviousness) X X
Twisted seam at cuff / bottom (depends on obviousness) X X
Untrimmed seam allowance at inside hem (inside garment) X
Mismatched rib color (depends on obviousness) X
Mismatched stripes / checks at shoulder / side seam 1/8" or above
(depends on size)
X X
Neck opening too small (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) X X
Neck opening too big X
Sweater Critical Major Minor
Wrong knitting pattern X X
Barre X
Thin/thick place X
Single yarn (depending on seriousness) X X
Slub yarn X
Split yarn X
Yarn run X X
Knots (depending on size and frequency) X X
Hole (other than normal loop hole) X
Dirty yarn X X
Dropped stitches X
Garment weight below specification 1/2 lb or above X
Neck / opening too small (if found in more than 1 garment -
Critical)
X X
Twisted sleeve 1/2" or more X
Twisted body 1/2" or more at side seam X
Shoulder seam / side seam / underarm seam shown at front X
High/low placket 1/4" on bottom X
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Sweater (continued) Critical Major Minor
Zigzag seaming at armhole X
Facing exposed at placket X
Harsh hand feel X
Melt or excessive wash X
Spirally (10º or more) X
Loose linking X
Untrimmed seaming thread X
Tight/Insecure seam end at cuff/hem X
Different color of seaming yarn X X
Glazed or scorched press at seam X X
Flat press at cable X X
Shiny press at seaming X X
Less elastic at rib cuff/hem X X
Irremovable crease line X
Pull-out loop X
Leather Garments Critical Major Minor
Color shade difference within same garment X
Needle cutting X
Scratch/surgery/brand/burnt/paint/cut/stretch mark X
Glue/hammer mark X X
Belly/marbled/drawn/discolored grain X X
Dead fold mark/setting out pleats X
Without silica gel pack or no warning clause on it X
Variation in skin thickness across the garment X
Weak adhesion X
Loose hair on fur X
Pencil mark X X
Button mark X
Hanger mark X X
Scattered leather X
Grain break/peeling/wrinkles/cracks X
Pinholes X
Score X
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 20
Socks Critical Major Minor
Uncut thread end X
Strings joining diamonds less than 1-1/4 inch X
Waviness at toe seam X
Pattern / embroidery deviated from center X
Misplated X
Twisted grain / ribs (¼ inch) X
Uneven toe X X
Open seam at heel gore X
Pilling X
Barre X X
Uneven sock length (max. 1/4 inch within the pair) X X
Uneven sock length (max. ½ inch from pair to pair) X X
Uneven Top width (max. 1/8 inch within the pair) X X
Uneven Top width (max. ¼ inch from pair to pair) X X
Spot X
Hole X
Wrong hook direction X
Misprint / invisible print on capper X
Sticker placement not centered (1/4 inch) X
Leather Garments Critical Major Minor
Brine draw X
Salt pits X
Large hair follicle holes in pig split affecting appearance X
Blood stain (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) X X
PVC Garments Critical Major Minor
Fold mark (depending on seriousness) X X
PVC torn at button X
PVC adhesion X
Needle damaged X
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 21
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Revised 03/08/2018 Page 48
Appendix – Footwear Test Protocols
DXL Group – Performance Specifications
Boots and Shoes
Page 1 of 3
Test Property Test Method DXL Group Requirement
Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (If
claimed)
Wool Products Labeling Act
Guide for Select Leather and Imitation Leather
Products
EU Footwear Labeling Directive ( EU
distribution only)
Canada Stuffed Articles Act (Canada
distribution)
Visual Fiber Content Label
Care Label
Country of Origin
RN # or WPL #
Size
Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* (If claimed) AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 0% Single Fiber
+3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASM D3776 + 5% from contracted weight
Thread Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight
Yarn Size* ( If requested) ASTM D1059 + 5% from contracted weight
Defects Visual assessment Report all defects
Appearance
General appearance Visual assessment No distortion, defects,
damaged components,
excessive shrinkage/puckering
between components
Colorfastness
CF to Crocking
General
Dark leather/suede
AATCC 8/116
Dry: Class 4
Wet: Class 3
Dry: Class 3
Wet: Class 2
Colorfastness to water: Color block/Contrast
trims
AATCC 107 Color change: class 4
Staining: class 3
Self-staining: class 4.5
Colorfastness to perspiration: Inner components AATCC 15 Color change: class 4
Staining: class 3
Self-staining: class 4.5
Performance
Heel attachment: heels >5 cm ASTM D1683 modified 150 lb minimum
Heel strength: heels >5 cm BS 5131 No bending or cracking after 5
cycles of 4 ft-lbs
Slip Resistance MTS 0.40 minimum static
0.30 minimum kinetic
Sole wearing resistance DIN 53516 No more than 350 cubic mm
volume loss
Flex Resistance (Upper component only) MTS/SATRA No cracking @35,000 cycles
Sole Bond durability MTS 10 lb minimum
Toe Bond durability MTS 30 lbs @ ½” circular sector
Reinforcement strength MTS 25 lb minimum
Tongue strength ASTM D1683 modified 30 lb minimum
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 49
DXL Group – Performance Specifications
Boots and Shoes
Page 2 of 3
Lace strength ASTM D1683 modified 75 lb minimum
Lace durability ASTM D3885 modified 100 cycles
Eyelet strength ASTM D1683 modified 30 lb minimum
Component attachment strength ASTM D7142 Functional: 15 lbs @ 10
secs Non-Functional: 5 lbs @ 10
secs
Waterproofing if claimed MTS No leakage after 100,000
cycles
Analytical
Lead in surface coatings* ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm
(0.09% by weight)
Nickel * (For EU distribution only) Spot Test None present
Formaldehyde – skin contact areas* (For
EU distribution only)
Spot Test None present
Azocolorants* (For EU distribution only) EN14362 Less than 30 ppm * Dimethyl Furmarate (DMF) (For EU Distribution Only)
* Any fabric, leather, wood and desiccant (silica gel) packets.
* When product comes in contact with skin, test up to 3 like materials of the largest surface area.
NOTE:
Vendor to provide PKG Desiccant document and
testing should only be completed if vendor cannot
provide signed document
MTS In house method
(Document Review)
Products placed or made available on the market shall comply with the
requirements of Directive
2009/251/EC.
Max limit: 0.1 mg DMF per kg of
the product or part of product.
Effective date: 01 May 2009.
NOTE:
- If the form is not filled out and
attached in the TRF, please ask
the vendor to return this form
- If the form is not returned
within 5 days of sending the
vendor the document, please
proceed with testing
- If the vendor cannot or will not
return the form, please proceed
with testing
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 50
DXL Group – Performance Specifications
Boots and Shoes
Page 3 of 3
Sample Submission
USA Asia
Darkest colorway – Full
testing
Including 2 common fibers
3 pair $295.00 $195.00
Additional colorway –
Colorfastness only
2 pair 95.00 60.00
Fabric (If requested by DXL
Group)
1 ½ yards N/A N/A
Turnaround time (TAT) 3-4 working days
excluding analytical
Chemical fiber content per fiber 45.00 14.00
Microscopic fiber content
Two cellulosic fiber blend 95.00 65.00
Additional cellulosic fiber 50.00 22.00
One specialty hair fiber 100.00 32.00
Two specialty hair fiber blend 150.00 60.00
Additional specialty fiber 60.00 32.00
Lambs wool per yarn/per fiber 150.00 32.00
Lead Content 65.00 25.00
Nickel Qualitative Spot 15.00 each
Nickel Quantitative EN12471/EN1811 Coated -
$128.00
Uncoated -
$83.00
Azocolourants EN 14362 70.00
Formaldehyde Qualitative A056 15.00
Formaldehyde Quantitative ISO 14184 20.00
Note: Protocol base price includes fiber identification of 2 common fibers
*Additional charge
Individual test discount: 35% off local prices
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 51
DXL Group – Performance Specifications Sandals
Page 1 of 3
Test Property Test Method DXL Group Requirement
Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (If
claimed)
Wool Products Labeling Act
Guide for Select Leather and Imitation Leather
Products
EU Footwear Labeling Directive (EU
distribution only)
Canada Stuffed Articles Act (Canada
distribution)
Visual Fiber Content Label
Care Label
Country of Origin
RN # or WPL #
Size
Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* (If claimed) AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 0% Single Fiber
+3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASM D3776 + 5% from contracted weight
Thread Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight
Yarn Size* ( If requested) ASTM D1059 + 5% from contracted weight
Defects Visual assessment Report all defects
Appearance
General appearance Visual assessment No distortion, defects,
damaged components,
excessive shrinkage/puckering
between components
Colorfastness
CF to Crocking
General
Dark leather/suede
AATCC 8/116
Dry: Class 4
Wet: Class 3
Dry: Class 3
Wet: Class 2
Colorfastness to water: Color block/Contrast
trims
AATCC 107 Color change: class 4
Staining: class 3
Self-staining: class 4.5
Colorfastness to perspiration: Inner components AATCC 15 Color change: class 4
Staining: class 3
Self-staining: class 4.5
Performance
Heel attachment: heels >5 cm ASTM D1683 modified 150 lb minimum
Heel strength: heels >5 cm BS 5131 No bending or cracking after 5
cycles of 4 ft-lbs
Slip Resistance MTS 0.40 minimum static
0.30 minimum kinetic
Sole wearing resistance DIN 53516 No more than 350 cubic mm
volume loss
Flex Resistance (If applicable) MTS/SATRA No cracking @35,000 cycles
Sole Bond durability MTS 10 lb minimum
Reinforcement strength MTS 25 lb minimum
Toe strap break MTS 25 lb minimum
Component attachment strength ASTM D7142 Functional: 15 lbs @ 10 secs
Non-Functional: 5 lbs @ 10
secs
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 52
DXL Group – Performance Specifications Sandals
Page 2 of 3
Analytical
Lead in surface coatings* ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm
(0.09% by weight)
Nickel * (For EU distribution only) Spot Test None present
Formaldehyde – skin contact areas* (For
EU distribution only)
Spot Test None present
Azocolorants* (For EU distribution only) EN14362 Less than 30 ppm * Dimethyl Furmarate (DMF) (For EU Distribution Only)
* Any fabric, leather, wood and desiccant (silica gel)
packets.
* When product comes in contact with skin, test up to 3 like materials of the largest surface area.
NOTE:
Vendor to provide PKG Desiccant document and
testing should only be completed if vendor cannot
provide signed document
MTS In house method
(Document Review)
Products placed or made available on the market shall comply with the
requirements of Directive
2009/251/EC.
Max limit: 0.1 mg DMF per kg of
the product or part of product.
Effective date: 01 May 2009.
NOTE:
- If the form is not filled out and
attached in the TRF, please ask
the vendor to return this form
- If the form is not returned
within 5 days of sending the
vendor the document, please
proceed with testing
- If the vendor cannot or will not
return the form, please proceed
with testing
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 53
DXL Group – Performance Specifications
Sandals
Page 3 of 3
Sample Submission
USA Asia
Darkest colorway – Full
testing
Including 2 common fibers
3 pair $295.00 $195.00
Additional colorway –
Colorfastness only
2 pair $95.00 $60.00
Fabric (If requested by DXL
Group)
1 ½ yards N/A N/A
Turnaround time (TAT) 3-4 working days
excluding analytical
Chemical fiber content per fiber 45.00 14.00
Microscopic fiber content
Two cellulosic fiber blend 95.00 65.00
Additional cellulosic fiber 50.00 22.00
One specialty hair fiber 100.00 32.00
Two specialty hair fiber blend 150.00 60.00
Additional specialty fiber 60.00 32.00
Lambs wool per yarn/per fiber 150.00 32.00
Lead Content 65.00 25.00
Nickel Qualitative Spot 15.00 each
Nickel Quantitative EN12471/EN1811 Coated -
$128.00
Uncoated -
$83.00
Azocolourants EN 14362 70.00
Formaldehyde Qualitative A056 15.00
Formaldehyde Quantitative ISO 14184 20.00
Note: Protocol base price includes fiber identification of 2 common fibers
*Additional charge
Individual test discount: 35% off local prices
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 54
DXL Group – Performance Specifications
Athletic Wear
Page 1 of 3
Test Property Test Method DXL Group Requirement
Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (If
claimed)
Wool Products Labeling Act
Guide for Select Leather and Imitation Leather
Products
EU Footwear Labeling Directive ( EU
distribution only)
Canada Stuffed Articles Act (Canada
distribution)
Visual Fiber Content Label
Care Label
Country of Origin
RN # or WPL #
Size
Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* (If claimed) AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 0% Single Fiber
+3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASM D3776 + 5% from contracted weight
Thread Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight
Yarn Size* ( If requested) ASTM D1059 + 5% from contracted weight
Defects Visual assessment Report all defects
Appearance
General appearance Visual assessment No distortion, defects,
damaged components,
excessive shrinkage/puckering
between components
Colorfastness
CF to Crocking
General
Dark leather/suede
AATCC 8/116
Dry: Class 4
Wet: Class 3
Dry: Class 3
Wet: Class 2
Colorfastness to water: Color block/Contrast
trims
AATCC 107 Color change: class 4
Staining: class 3
Self-staining: class 4.5
Colorfastness to perspiration: Inner components AATCC 15 Color change: class 4
Staining: class 3
Self-staining: class 4.5
Atmospheric fumes (white only) AATCC 23 Class 4 minimum
Performance
Slip Resistance MTS 0.40 minimum static
0.30 minimum kinetic
Sole wearing resistance DIN 53516 No more than 350 cubic mm
volume loss
Flex Resistance (Upper component only) MTS/SATRA No cracking @35,000 cycles
Sole Bond durability MTS 10 lb minimum
Toe Bond durability MTS 30 lbs @ ½” circular sector
Reinforcement strength MTS 25 lb minimum
Tongue strength ASTM D1683 modified 30 lb minimum
Lace strength ASTM D1683 modified 75 lb minimum
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 55
DXL Group – Performance Specifications
Athletic Wear
Page 2 of 3
Lace durability ASTM D3885 modified 100 cycles
Eyelet strength ASTM D1683 modified 30 lb minimum
Component attachment strength ASTM D7142 Functional: 15 lbs @ 10
secs Non-Functional: 5 lbs @ 10
secs
Waterproofing if claimed* MTS No leakage after 100,000
cycles
Analytical
Lead in surface coatings* ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm
(0.09% by weight)
Nickel * (For EU distribution only) Spot Test None present
Formaldehyde – skin contact areas* (For
EU distribution only)
Spot Test None present
Azocolorants* (For EU distribution only) EN14362 Less than 30 ppm * Dimethyl Furmarate (DMF) (For EU Distribution Only)
* Any fabric, leather, wood and desiccant (silica gel) packets.
* When product comes in contact with skin, test up to 3 like materials of the largest surface area.
NOTE:
Vendor to provide PKG Desiccant document and
testing should only be completed if vendor cannot
provide signed document
MTS In house method
(Document Review)
Products placed or made available on the market shall comply with the
requirements of Directive
2009/251/EC.
Max limit: 0.1 mg DMF per kg of
the product or part of product.
Effective date: 01 May 2009.
NOTE:
- If the form is not filled out and
attached in the TRF, please ask
the vendor to return this form
- If the form is not returned
within 5 days of sending the
vendor the document, please
proceed with testing
- If the vendor cannot or will not
return the form, please proceed
with testing
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 56
DXL Group – Performance Specifications
Athletic Wear
Page 3 of 3
Sample Submission
USA Asia
Darkest colorway – Full
testing
Including 2 common fibers
3 pair $295.00 $195.00
Additional colorway –
Colorfastness only
2 pair $95.00 $60.00
Fabric (If requested by DXL
Group)
1 ½ yards N/A N/A
Turnaround time (TAT) 3-4 working days
excluding analytical
Chemical fiber content per fiber 45.00 14.00
Microscopic fiber content
Two cellulosic fiber blend 95.00 65.00
Additional cellulosic fiber 50.00 22.00
One specialty hair fiber 100.00 32.00
Two specialty hair fiber blend 150.00 60.00
Additional specialty fiber 60.00 32.00
Lambs wool per yarn/per fiber 150.00 32.00
Lead Content 65.00 25.00
Nickel Qualitative Spot 15.00 each
Nickel Quantitative EN12471/EN1811 Coated -
$128.00
Uncoated -
$83.00
Azocolourants EN 14362 70.00
Formaldehyde Qualitative A056 15.00
Formaldehyde Quantitative ISO 14184 20.00
Note: Protocol base price includes fiber identification of 2 common fibers
*Additional charge
Individual test discount: 35% off local prices
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 57
DXL Group – Performance Specifications Slippers
Page 1 of 3
Test Property Test Method DXL Group Requirement
Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (If
claimed)
Wool Products Labeling Act
Guide for Select Leather and Imitation Leather
Products
EU Footwear Labeling Directive ( EU
distribution only)
Canada Stuffed Articles Act (Canada
distribution)
Visual Fiber Content Label
Care Label
Country of Origin
RN # or WPL #
Size
Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* (If claimed) AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 0% Single Fiber
+3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASM D3776 + 5% from contracted weight
Thread Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight
Yarn Size* ( If requested) ASTM D1059 + 5% from contracted weight
Defects Visual assessment Report all defects
Appearance
General appearance Visual assessment No distortion, defects,
damaged components,
excessive shrinkage/puckering
between components
Colorfastness
CF to Crocking
General
Indigo dye, Pigment dye, Garment dye,
Lightly brushed or piled surface
AATCC 8/116
Dry: Class 4
Wet: Class 3
Dry: Class 3
Wet: Class 2
Colorfastness to water: Color block/Contrast
trims
AATCC 107 Color change: class 4
Staining: class 3
Self-staining: class 4.5
Colorfastness to perspiration: Inner components AATCC 15 Color change: class 4
Staining: class 3
Self-staining: class 4.5
Performance
Slip Resistance (Traditional non-textile sole) MTS 0.40 minimum static
0.30 minimum kinetic
Sole Bond durability MTS 10 lb minimum
Toe Bond durability MTS 30 lbs @ ½” circular sector
Reinforcement strength MTS 25 lb minimum
Component attachment strength ASTM D7142 Functional: 15 lbs @ 10 secs
Non-Functional: 5 lbs @ 10
secs
Analytical
Lead in surface coatings* ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm
(0.09% by weight)
Nickel * (For EU distribution only) Spot Test None present
Formaldehyde – skin contact areas* (For EU
distribution only)
Spot Test None present
Azocolorants* (For EU distribution only) EN14362 Less than 30 ppm
Revised 03/08/2018 Page 58
DXL Group – Performance Specifications
Slippers
Page 2 of 3 Analytical - continued
* Dimethyl Furmarate (DMF)
(For EU Distribution Only)
* Any fabric, leather, wood and desiccant (silica gel)
packets.
* When product comes in contact with skin, test up to 3 like materials of the largest surface area.
NOTE:
Vendor to provide PKG Desiccant document and
testing should only be completed if vendor cannot
provide signed document
MTS In house method
(Document Review)
Products placed or made available
on the market shall comply with the requirements of Directive
2009/251/EC.
Max limit: 0.1 mg DMF per kg of
the product or part of product.
Effective date: 01 May 2009.
NOTE:
- If the form is not filled out and
attached in the TRF, please ask
the vendor to return this form
- If the form is not returned
within 5 days of sending the
vendor the document, please
proceed with testing
- If the vendor cannot or will not
return the form, please proceed
with testing
Sample Submission
USA Asia
Darkest colorway – Full testing
Including 2 common fibers
3 pair $275.00 $180.00
Additional colorway –
Colorfastness only
2 pair $95.00 $60.00
Fabric (If requested by DXL
Group)
1 ½ yards N/A N/A
Turnaround time (TAT) 3-4 working days excluding
analytical
Chemical fiber content per fiber 45.00 14.00
Microscopic fiber content
Two cellulosic fiber blend 95.00 65.00
Additional cellulosic fiber 50.00 22.00
One specialty hair fiber 100.00 32.00
Two specialty hair fiber blend 150.00 60.00
Additional specialty fiber 60.00 32.00
Lambs wool per yarn/per fiber 150.00 32.00
Lead Content 65.00 25.00
Nickel Qualitative Spot 15.00 each
Nickel Quantitative EN12471/EN1811 Coated - $128.00
Uncoated - $83.00
Azocolourants EN 14362 70.00
Formaldehyde Qualitative A056 15.00
Formaldehyde Quantitative ISO 14184 20.00
Note: Protocol base price includes fiber identification of 2 common fibers
*Additional charge
Individual test discount: 35% off local prices