EASTERNTURKEY,MAY2010

byJohnRayner

White-throatedRobin(PhotocourtesyofPeteWorthy)

PREPARATIONManybirdinggroupshavevisitedEasternTurkeysotheareaiswelldocumentedbutmostbirderstravelaconventionalcircularrouteandtakeatleast14daystofitinallthemainsites.Wehadlesstimeavailablebutmanagedtoseeallourtargets,includingmanyspecialbirdsontheverylimitsoftheirrange,byhiringacaronaone-waydropoffbasis.Asthisisnotacommonpractiseadetailedtripreporthasbeenprepared.Intheeventthistriptookagreatdealoforganisation.Hiringacarfor10daysonaone-waydropoffbasisprovedtobesomethingofaproblem.FollowingtherecentWorldrecession,andconsequentreductionintourism,carhirecompaniesacrosstheboardhadcuttheirfleetsconsiderablyandweonlyfoundonecompany(Avis)whowerepreparedtoofferanythinglargerthanaFordFocus,whichwasunsuitableforateamof5.So,eventually,wepickedupa9-seaterVolkswagenCaravelle(£158eachincludingallinsurancesandwaivers)inAdanaanddroppeditoffinTrabzon10dayslaterwithanadditional3482km(2150miles)ontheclock.Wepaidextrafor3drivers(£12each)andspreadingthedrivingloadoversuchadistanceprovedtobeinvaluable.FlightswerealittleeasiertoorganiseusingPegasusAirlinesfromStanstedtoIstanbul,thenaninternalflighttoAdana(£202each).Butafurtherslightcomplicationaroseinthatonememberofthepartywantedapre-tripholidayinIstanbulwithhiswife.Soitwasthat4membersoftheteam(NeilMarshall,JohnRayner,DougSmithandFredWake)flewfromStanstedtoIstanbulon20thMaytomeetTonyArmstrongwhohadflownout3daysearlier.

GENERALINFORMATIONWeallboughttouristvisasatSabihaGockenairport,Istanbul(10Euros).WenavigatedusingthemapthatcamewithTheRoughGuideandfounditperfectlysatisfactory.Althoughwecoveredhighmileagein10daysitneverfeltlikeweweresatinthecaralldaylong.Wedidhaveacoupleofdedicatedlongmileagedaysbutstillmanagedsomebrilliantbirdingonthosedaysaswelland,inthemain,avoidednightdriving.TheTurkishinfrastructureisgoodwithplentyoftollmotorways(intheMediterraneanregion)andwithdualcarriagewaysthroughout.Inparticularthereareon-goingimprovementstothedualcarriagewayfromGaziantepallthewaytoCizreontheIraqiborder,whichwillspeedupfuturetripsconsiderably.

Wetookwithusthestandardsiteandfieldguides:FindingBirdsinEasternTurkey(Gosney),Birdwatchers'GuidetoTurkey(Prion),CollinsBirdGuideandphotocopiesofmanytripreports,allofwhichareeasilyaccessibleontheinternet.ThereisastrongmilitarypresenceinsoutheastandeasternAnatoliaregionsandclasheswiththeKurdishWorker’sParty(PKK)stilloccur.Althoughwepassedthroughtheseareasandclosebysomesensitiveborders(themainroadactuallyrunsalongsidetheSyrianborderforsomedistancearoundNusaybin)weonlypassedafewpoliceorarmycheckpoints.Oneveryoccasionwewerewavedthroughwithouthassleandinfriendlyfashiononcewesaid“English”and“tourist”.WefollowedadvicewhenleavingIdilandavoidedthemanycheckpointsonthemoredirectroutenorth.InsteadwedetourednortheastthennorthwestviaMidyat,BatmanandSiirt.WeweremovedonatanimpromptulunchtimestopnearMidyatbecauseitwastoonearahilltoplisteningpostandwewerewatchedthroughbinocularsfromawelldisguisedarmyfoxholebuiltfromlavaatSerpmetaslavafields,thentoldtoleave.OneTurkfoundanovelwaytodisturbourroadsidebirdingnearHotelGenesis,Sivrikayabyfiring10roundsfromthedriver’swindow(thankfullyintotheair).However,wefoundTurkishpeopleingeneralandKurdishpeopleinparticular,tobeextremelyfriendlyandwelcoming.Indeedthemainproblemwastogetonwithbirdingwhilstpolitelyrefusingthemanyoffersoftea(cay)ortosharefood.IneasternAnatoliaverylittleEnglishisspokenandwecameacrossonlyahandfulofwesternEuropeans,mostlybirders,outsideofIstanbul.Inmanyplacespeoplejuststoppedandstaredaswewereobviouslyquiteanovelty.Theexchangerateduringourstaywasapproximately2.20TL/poundsterling.Fuelwasveryexpensive,approximately3.00–3.20TLperlitre(aneye-watering£1.46/litreor£6.55/gallonforthosestillworkingin‘oldmoney’).BizarrelyitseemedtogetmoreexpensiveasweapproachedthebordersofTurkey’soilrichneighbours,Syria,IraqandIran.Weallatesaladsandice-creamsandno-onehad‘Sultan’sRevenge’butwealwaysavoidedtapwaterandusedbottledwaterthroughout(exceptatRidosSpawherethetapwaterwasprobablypurerthanbottled).Apartfromtheubiquitouskebabs(particularlygoodinGaziantep)wealsohadfreshseabream(chopra)andparticularlylikedtoeatsutlac(acoldricepuddingsprinkledwithcrushedhazelnuts)onourfrequentcoffeestops.Onlyaveryfewbitinginsectswereencountered,mostlyroundtheEuphrates.AlthoughthisisalowriskmalariazonetakingChloroquinisprobablyun-necessaryatthistimeofyear(althoughacourseonlycosts£2orso).WehadreadalotaboutviciousAnatoliansheepdogsandthegeneraladvicewastotreatthemasthelocalsdobyhurlingrocksatthem.Intheeventweonlycameclosetoonehugedogwhilstoutofthevehicle,withtheaptnameof‘Baddi’.Hewasbiggerthanhisshepherdboyownerandwiththetemperamentofapussycat.However,ourvehiclewaschasedafewtimesbylessfriendlyindividualscompletewithpunk-style,rusty,nail-studdedwolfcollarsandweweregladweweren’toutinthefieldwhenthesewerearound!Thereislittlewithinthisreportonwildlifeotherthanbirds.Thebutterfliesandalpinefloraweresimplystunningbutwedidn’thaveeitherthetimeortheexpertiseforfulleridentifications.I(JohnRayner)providedmostofthephotographsandmentionmustbemadeofmybirdphotography-mediocreatbestasIsimplyhandholdaCanoncompacttomytelescopeandhope.Therefore,specialthankstoPeteWorthyforallowingmetousehismuchbetterphotographstoenhancethisreport.

ACCOMODATIONWepre-bookedaccommodationsinIstanbulandAdanatominimisedhassle,aswehadlate-isharrivaltimesatbothairports.AlsowebookedBasarHassantoprovidetransportandguideup/downDemirkazikMountain.ThisisnotabsolutelynecessaryastheSnowcockswerestillputtingonashowaswedescendedat07.30.However,accommodationinthisareaislimited.Nootheraccommodationwasbookedinadvance,thenormbeingabout40-50TLforadoubleroomonabedandbreakfastbasis(approx£9-£11each).Wedidnoticethatpricesingeneralwereabout20%dearerthanthe2009RoughGuidesuggestedbutatmanyhotelspriceswerenegotiable.DespiteapparentlygoodsignagewefailedtofindTheTouristInformationCentre,atIsliki.Thiswouldhavebeenthemostconvenientaccommodationandthereisanarrowedsign“TouristInformationCentre3kilometres”inIslikivillagebutthetrailthenwentcold.Perhapswewouldhavedonebetterindaylight.(Stoppress.Wejustheardofanothergroupwhohadsimilarproblemsaweekafterus).WefoundhotelsinVantobemuchmoreexpensivethanthe2009RoughGuidesuggested.LakeVanisabitofatouristareathough.ThecheapestnightwasatIshakPashaclosetotheIranianborder,“MuratCampingandHotel”(15TLperpersonwithbreakfast8TL)Itisbasicbutinasuperblocationandthusrecommended.

HotelGenesisis5kNorthofSivrikayainthenextvillageofCamlik(N.B.Atleast1tripreporterroneouslystatesitis5ksouthofSivrikaya).ItiswellpositionedforCaucasianGrouseandhasGreenWarblersinthewoodsattheback.However,itwasstillclosedinMayanddidnotopentill1stJune.Itssisterhotel,TheRidosThermalHotelandSpa,is21kfurthernorthatIsikdere.Thisisveryplushbutwenegotiatedareasonablerateof92TLp.p.p.n.foramini-suiteonabed,breakfastandeveningmealbasis.Thisequatedto£42B,B&Eand,withsumptuousfood,thiswasfarabetterratethanonecouldgetforanEnglishequivalent.TheRoughGuidesuggeststhatsomebudgethotelsinTrabzonmaydoubleasbrothels.WearenotsuggestingthisisthecasewithHotelElegantebuttheydon’tappeartohavemanyroomsotherthansingleswithdoublebeds(!)andtwoorthreelikely‘Natashas’didvisittherestaurant.Wewerewelloutofitonthe6thfloor!Thishotelisveryconvenientfortheairportandgaveusanexcellentlastnightmealinitsrestaurant.

ITINERY(Allhotelratesperperson)

20May.DepartedStansted12.50.(PegasusAirlines).ArrivedIstanbul(SabihaGoken)18.25.Night:MarmaraGuesthouse,Istanbul(34EuroB&B).21May.Sight-seeingIstanbul.Eveningflight(Pegasus)DepartIstanbul19.40.Pegasus126arrivedAdana21.00.PickupAvisVWCaravelle.Night:HotelMercan,Adana(20TLB&B).22May.Earlystart.DrovewestonmotorwaypastTarsus&MersintoDemircili.GoksuDeltatillmidmorning.LunchGoksuDeltatheninafternoondrovenorth(mostlymotorway)toCukurbagvillageforDemirkazikmountain.Birdedlowergorgetilldusk.NightOzSafakPensionwithBasarSafak(30EuroB,B&E)23May.Upat03.30forcarrideupDemerkazikMountain(2150m).Walkeddowngorgeforlunch.BirdedCukurbagandlowertomidlevelsofDemerkaziktilllatepm.LongdriveonmotorwaytoGaziantep.FailedtofindAccommodation‘TouristInformationCentre’inIsliki.NightHotelAyintap,Gaziantep(20TLB&B).24May.Earlymorningonnewquarryroad,DurnalikthenlunchontrackupfromvillagestoreintheIsikli.Inafternoondrove1houreasttoBirecikfor2nightstay.BirdedGravelWorkslagoonsandvisitedGulhameTeaGardens.NightHotelMirkalem(noisy.22.50TLroomonly).25May.EarlystarttobirdBaldIbisCentrewadi.Latebreakfastthenvisitedpistachiofields.Chill-outlunchinEskiHalfetionEuphratesbarrage(35knorthofBirecik).LateafternoonbacktoBirecikbirdingSEbanksofEuphratesandre-visitedGravelWorksLagoons.2ndNightHotelMirkalem.26May.Longdrivingeast(muchonm/wayandcurrentmajorroadimprovementsshouldmakethiseasierinfuture).DrovenexttoSyrianborderbeforecuttingNEtoIdilreservoirforRed-wattledLapwing.ThenheadedNW/NEviaMidyat,BatmanandSkiirttoBitlis.NightHotelDiderban,Bitlis(25TLB&B).27May.EarlystartforNemrutDagi(extinctvolcaniccrater).ThenanticlockwisearoundsouthernandeasternfringesofLakeVan.FailedtofindsuitableaccommodationinVansobacktoHotelTusba,Edremit(50TLB&B)28May.EdremitMarshes,LakeErcekandBendimaheMarshes.SerpmetasLavaFields.BirdedTendurekGecidiPass(2644m)anddroveclosetoIranianborderwithviewsofMountAraratthenviaDogubayazittoIshakPashaPalace.NightMuratCampingandHotelinanexcellentlocationjustbelowpalace.(15TLroomonly).29May.BirdedslopesaboveIshakPashatillnoonthenlongdrivewestviaAgri,Eleskirt,Ezerum.BirdedGelinkaya.Drovenorthovervariouspasses(Sac,Agziacik,OvitdagiGecidi)toHotelGenesisnearSivrikaya-Closedtill1stJune!Drovenorth21ktoexpensive(butexcellent|)RidosHotel,Ikizdere(Negotiated92TLforamini-suiteandsumptuousfood).30May.Drove2ksouthofSivrikayatobirdalpineslopesthere.SouthtoIspirandRiverCoruhValley.VisitedHotelGenesiswoodland.2ndNightRidosHotel,Ikizdere.31May.EarlystarttobirdSivrikaya,HotelGenesiswoodland.DrovenorthwesttoBlackSeacoastnearRize,thenwesttoTrabzonandsouthtoSumelaMonastery.ReturnedcartoAvisatTrabzonAirport(+3482k).NightHotelElegante,Trabzon(goodrestaurantandconvenientforairport).(50TLB&Bforasingle)1stJun.DepartTrabzonat06.00arrivedIstanbul07.45.DepartIstanbul10.20arrivedStansted12.10

SUMMARYOFTHETOUR20thMay.WearrivedlateinIstanbulafterourpre-arrangedtaxitransferfailedtoshowatSabihaGockenairportandmetupwithTonyA.foralatemeal.Notasearlytobedaswewouldhavelikedbutitwastobealeisurelysight-seeingdaytomorrow.21stMay.OurhotelwaswellpositionedintheSultanhametdistrictwithineasywalkingdistanceofthemaintouristattractions.TelescopesweresoonsetupontheroofterraceduringbreakfastaswewatchedraftsofYelkouanShearwatersstreamingoutoftheBlackSeaandheadingdowntheBosphorus.WedidthetouristrouteandvisitedtheBlueMosque,OldMosque,andTopkapiPalacewithlunchatthefamousPuddingShop.TopkapiPalacegroundsheldnumbersofRing-neckedParakeetswiththeoccasionalAlexandrineParakeetthrownin.BetterthantheseintroductionswastheOlive-treeWarblersingingloudlyneartheHarementrance.

Above:BlueMosque,Istanbul

Above:HagiaSophia,Istanbul

AfewotherbirdswereseenincludingtheonlyShag(ssp.desmarestii)ofthetripatGalataBridgebutbirdinghadn’treallystartedyet.Later,aftera1houreveningflighttoAdana,wepickedupourhirecarandfoundourdowntownhotel.22ndMay.Afteranearlybreakfastwehittheroad-butwest,noteast.Goodtollmotorways,passingTarsusandMersin,soonhadusatDemirciligraveyard,afavouritebirdingsitefrommanytripreports.Hereinthepinewoodsopposite,wescoredquicklywithWhite-spectacledBulbul,Cretzschmar’sBunting,Ruppell’sWarbler,SombreTitandnestingKruper’sNuthatches.

Above:Pinewoods,DemirciliHavinghitallthetargetswemovedonandateourpicniclunchinatowerhideoverlookingGoksuDelta.Atime-wasterinretrospectatthewrongtimeofday.Heathazehamperedduckidentificationandthebestwecouldfindwere2WhitePelicans,afemaleRed-crestedPochard,aBlackFrancolinperchedoutsingingandmanyGracefulPriniasandZittingCisticolas

Above:Towerhide,GoksuDelta

Above:BlackFrancolin,GoskuDelta(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)

Timetomove,againusingtheexcellentmotorwaysystem,toheadnorthtoCukurbag.HereweweremetbyourguideBasarHassanandevenmanagedacoupleofhoursbirdingtillduskupthelowerpartsofthegorgeatDemerazikmountain,findingourfirstRed-frontedSerins,RockSparrowsandRockBunting.BackforarelaxedeveningmealwithBasarandhisfamilythentobedwithalarmssetforaridiculoushour.

23rdMay.Alarmssetfor03.15andwetrundledupDemerkazikMountaininrelaysof3inanoldoil-burningLadaRiva.At2150metresthetemperaturewasanotunpleasant6degreesandjustafterdawnwefoundourfirstCaspianSnowcocks.Upto11wereseenastheyputonagreatdisplay,sometimesascloseas200m.

Above:CaspianSnowcock,Demerkazik

Above:Red-frontedSerin,DemerazikGorge(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)

ThesupportingcastincludedRed-frontedSerins,SnowfinchesandAlpineAccentorswithagroupofIbexclimbingnimblyonthenearverticalcragsabovebutRadde’sAccentorremainedelusive.Wewereassuredtheywouldbefoundonthedescentdownthegorgebutnosignofthemtoday-thisbirdwastobecomeaproblemlaterinthetrip!Infactwesawverylittleduringthedescentofthegorge,whichisnarrow,steep-sidedandalittlehands-oninplaces.Withhindsightwewouldprobablyhavehadbetterbirdingbywalkingbackdownthedriveabletrack.WereturnedtoOzSafakPensionforalatebreakfastthenoutagainondirtroadsaroundCukurbagseekingCrimson-wingedFinchesandWhite-throatedRobins.ThemanyBlack-earedWheatearshereincludedasmallnumberofFinsch’sWheatears.

Above:DemerkazikGorgeentrance

Above:DescentofDemerkazikGorge(it’snotalllikethis!)

Above:White-throatedRobin,Cukurbag(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)

Above:Black-earedWheatear(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)

WeeventuallydepartedOzSafakat16.10foraquitelongdriveeasttotheendofthemotorwayatGaziantep.Despitedecentsignagewehadgreatdifficultyfindingourpreferredaccommodation,‘TheTouristInformationCentre’atIslikisohadtobacktrackandendedupatahotelinGaziantep.(N.B.OthergroupshavealsorecentlyfailedtofindthisaccommodationinIsikli).24thMay.AnotherearlystartandweweresooninsuperbhabitatjustoffthenewquarryroadatDurnalik.ThisroadrunsparalleltothevalleyasshowninGosney’sguideandgiveseasieraccess.ItwasanexcellentareaforbothWesternandEasternRockNuthatches.Upcher’sWarblers,Black-headedandCinereousBuntingswerereasonablyplentifulandwefoundbothSyrianWoodpeckerandEasternOrpheanWarblernesting.AChukarwanderedbybutPaleRockSparrowsdidn’tshow.

Above:EasternRockNuthatch(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)

Above:CinereousBunting,Durnalik

Above:Black-headedBunting,Durnalik

WecontinuedthesearchforPaleRockSparrowandeventuallyturneddownatrackonthelefthandsidejustafterasmallquarryontheapproachroadtothemainquarry.ThisprovedsuccessfulwithPaleRockSparrow,RufousBushChatandBimaculatedLarkalladdedtothegrowinglist.BackinIsiklivillageweboughtprovisionsbutdidn’tnotice‘TheTouristInformationCentre’evenindaylight.Weparkeddownbythesideofthevillagestoresandwalkedupanobviousvalley.Herewefoundourtarget,therecentlysplitKurdish(Red-tailed)WheatearOenanthexanthopryma,afamilypartynoless,withbothparentsfeeding2juveniles.WealsofoundaCardinalhere,Europe’slargestfritillaryandoneoftheeasierbutterfliestoidentify.

Above:Cardinal,Isikli

MidafternoonwecalledbacktoGazianteptopickupluggagethensetoutfortheshort50minutehoptoBireciktocheckinattheMerkalimMotelbythebridgeovertheEuphrates.WeexchangedinformationherewithotherbirdersthenimmediatelywentouttothenearbyGravelWorkslagoonsonthenorthwestbankforanexcellentcoupleofhoursbirding.ThelistherewaslongbutgoodiesincludedmanySquaccoHerons,LittleBitternsandPygmyCormorants,apartyofBaldIbisfromthenearbybreedingprogramme,ouronlyMoustachedWarblersofthetrip,PiedKingfishers,DeadSeaSparrowsandlastbutnotleast4IraqBabblers,rightontheedgeoftheirrestrictedrange.

Above:GravelWorksLagoons,Birecik

Above:BaldIbis,Birecik

Above:PygmyCormorants,Birecik(photographcourtesyofPeteWorthy)

TherewasstilltimetodriveovertheEuphratesBridgetovisitthefamousGulhameTeaGardens.Itwasobvioustothestaffwewerebirdersbutbesttoplayitcoolhereandfirstordersometea.EventuallyoneofthewaiterspointedupanearbytreeandtherewasaPale(Bruce’s)ScopsOwlinfullview.Althoughthelightwasfadingthiswasagoodtimetowatchasitrouseditselffromdaytimeroostingandfinallyflewat19.42.SowereturnedtothenoisyMerkalimMotel,whichisalsoatrucker’scaféandlorry/coachstop.Thenightwaspunctuatedbyloudmusicandtannoymessagesplus,forsomebizarrereason,someonemovingfurnitureontheflooraboveallnightlong.

Above:PaleScopsOwl,Birecik

25thMay.Aswecouldn’tsleepwewereoutearlyandwalkeduptheBaldIbisCentrewadi.HereweeasilyfoundMenetries’WarblerbutittookquiteawhiletoflushaSee-seePartridgethathadcomedowntodrink.Abetteroptionwastotakeoneofthetrackstothetopofthewadiandscanthegrassyplateaus.HerewefoundanotherSee-seesingingfromadistantrockyperch.Duringlastnight’sexchangeofinformationwehadbeentippedoffwheretolookforYellow-throatedSparrow(Chestnut-wingedPetronia).WehadnoluckonourvisitbuttherewascompensationintheformofapassingLesser-spottedEaglewithanestingcolonyofLittleSwiftsonthecliffsinBirecik.WehadafullbreakfastatMerkalimcafétheneasilyfoundYellow-throatedSparrowatanothersitedownbyanOtopetrolstation(2ndrightturnnorthofIbiscentre).

Right:See-seePartridgehabitat

Above:Yellow-throatedSparrow(Chestnut-wingedPetronia),Birecik

Itwasgettinghotso,drivingthroughextensivepistachiogroves,wehadachill-outlunchbreak40kmtothenorthatthepicturesqueEskiHalfetiwheremanysmallvillagesweresubmergedafterthedammingoftheEuphrates.ThenbacktoBireciktotryourluckonthesoutheastsideoftheriver.MuchthesamebirdshereaslastnightwiththeadditionofafamilypartyofFerruginousDucksandamaleGarganey.TwoYellow-throatedSparrows,awayfromthepistachiofields,wereasurprisehere.AnicerelaxingmealonthebanksoftheEuphratescappedasplendidday.AsecondnightattheMerkalimMotel-andtheywerestillmovingthefurniturearoundupstairsintothesmallhours!!

Above:Transportingpistachios,Birecik

Above:EskiHalfeti

Above:EveningbyRiverEuphrates,Birecik

27thMay.Itwastobealongdrivingdaytodaybutfirstsutlacandcoffeeatthemotel.Wewereontheroadfor06.15anddroveeastthroughalmostcontinuousroadconstructionworkasthemotorwaywasbeingextended.MuchofthetrafficseemedtoconsistofcartransporterstakingnewcarstoCizrethenintoIraq.WepassedthetownsofSanliurfa,ViransehirandKaziltepethendrovealongsidetheSyrianborderforawhilebeforeturningnortheasttoIdilreservoir.ThespecialityhereisRed-wattledLapwingatoneofitsveryfewbreedingsitesintheWesternPalearctic.Anyfuturevisitorsarerecommendedtowalkanti-clockwiseroundtheperimeterofthereservoirtoreachthefirstinlet,hotworkasthetemperaturehadrisento33degrees.HerewefoundaRed-wattledLapwingapparentlydefendingterritoryand,astherewasprobablyafemaleonanestnearby,wesoonleftthebirdsinpeace.TherewereanassortmentofcommonerwadersaroundthereservoirplussinglesofRed-crestedPochardandSlender-billedGullandayoung,unidentifiedrodent,possiblyaJird(Gerbil).

Above:Red-wattledLapwing,Idil

Above:Unidentifiedrodent,Idil

MosttripreportsadviseagainstthedirectroutenorthfromIdilasthisareahasaheavymilitarypresencewithlotsoftimeconsumingcheck-points.InsteadwechoseamorecircuitousrouteviaMidyat,BatmanandSiirtbutwewerestillmovedonbythepolicewhilstattemptingaroadsidefoodstopontheD380,apparentlyweweretooclosetoahilltoplisteningpost.EventuallywereachedthehistorictownofBitlisataround20.00afteralongdrivingdayof698km/436miles.

27thMay.Wetookapre-breakfastwalkaroundBitlisunderimposingcastlewallsthen,afterbreakfast,drovetheshortdistanceof20kmtoNemrutDagiCraternearTatvan.FirstwebirdedthelowerfieldswherelarksaboundedandaSpur-thighedTortoisecrawledacrosstheroad,thenwefoundourwayuptothecraterrim.

Above:Spur-thighedTortoise,LarkFields,NemrutDagi

Justbeforethecraterrimalarge,rapidlymeltingbankofsnowwaswashingthroughthetracksoweparkedandwalkedupatrailtowardsMountNemrutsummit.Here,asadvisedin‘Gosney’,wescannedtheclifffacesandscreeslopesbelowbutnosignofRadde’sAccentor,althoughwedidseemanyAlpineAccentors,SnowfinchesandShorelarks.Analternativeapproachwasrequiredsowemanagedtodrivepastthesnowmeltandintothecrateritself,abeautifulsettingwithanazurebluemirrorlakewhichholdsabreedingpopulationofVelvetScoter.Wethendrovedownasmallersidetracktoplaceourselvesunderneaththesamecliffsandscreeslopes,amuchmorelikelyhabitatwithscatteredscrub.HereaRadde’sAccentoreventuallyshoweditselftooneteammemberonlyandtheresthadtomakedowiththesupportingcastofWoodlarks,RockThrushesandOrtolanBuntings.Forthefirsttimeweweregettingbehindourplannedscheduleandthiswasn’thelpedbygettingthevehiclestuckontryingtore-negotiatethesnowmelt.IntheenditwasapassinggroupofKurdsthatgotusoutafteraconversationthatdidn’tgetmuchfurtherthan“ManchesterUnited”,“NewcastleUnited”,“Galatasaray”,“Besiktas”.

Above:InsideNemrutDagiCrater

Above:OK!NemrutDagi

Above:Stuck!NemrutDagi

WefinallyleftNemrutDagiat15.30todrivethroughTatvanalongthesouthshoresofthevastLakeVan.HerewesawourfirstArmenianGullsandRuddyShelducksandeventuallyweheadedforVan,themaintowninthearea.However,pricesinVanseemedmuchhigherthanour2009editionofTheRoughguidesuggestedandoverallwehadabadtimehere.Wegotlostforoveranhourintrafficfrenzy,failedtofindadecentpricedhotelandnearlyknockedoverasuicidalpedestrian.Vanmusthavelotstoofferbutwedidn’tliketheplaceandsoretracedourroutebacktoEdremitandfoundanicehotelontheshoresofLakeVanclosetoEdremitMarshes.

28thMay.SomeofthegroupwokeearlyandvisitedEdremitMarshesbeforebreakfast.HerewefoundmoreArmenianGullsandacoupleofpairsofWhite-headedDuck.AfterbreakfastwedrovepastVanHillsinordertoreachLakeErcek.VanHillsisonesiteforGrey-neckedBuntingbut,afterstudyingvarioustripreports,itappearedthattheycouldbequitedifficulttolocate.Givenourconstraintsontime,andthefactthatIshakPashaseemedamuchmorereliablesite,wedecidedtogiveVanHillsamiss.LakeErcekisasalinelakewithdifficultaccessbut,bydrivingdownatrackjustnorthofErcekvillage,weendedupatadeadendinafarmyard.Thebemusedfarmerandhisfamilywereveryaccommodatinghoweverandwehadadequateiffairlydistantviewsofthelake.CloseenoughtoseeRuddyandCommonShelducks,Black-wingedStiltsandVelvetScotersonthelake,whilstthefarmheldBlack-headedWagtails(ssp.feldegg)andIsabellineWheatears.AroadsidemarshoppositethelakeheldmoreWhite-headedDucksandthenearbyfieldshostedlargeflocksofRose-colouredStarlingswithmalesdisplayingonwiresabove.Continuingourrouteanti-clockwisearoundLakeVanwereachedBendimaheMarsheswherewehadcloserviewsofArmenianGullandRuddyShelduckandasmallgroupofbrightplumagedfemaleRed-neckedPhalaropes.NearBendimaheRiver,downatracktowardsabluewatchtower,wefoundLesserShort-toedLarksdisplaying.

Above:Black-headedWagtail,LakeErcek

Above:IntroducingaKurdishfarmertobirding(LakeErcekinbackground)

Above:Rose-colouredStarlingdisplay,LakeErcek

Above:MaleRuddyShelduck,BendimaheMarsh

Above:AdultArmenianGull,LakeVan

TimetogoandpassingaroadsignforIran,wemadeanothercoffee/sutlacstopinCaldiran.Itwasonlyashorthopfromheretothe‘lunarlandscape’lavafieldsatSerpmetas,avastareaofjagged,brokenlavawithmanylargecracksandfissurestobenegotiated.Afteraseriesofsunny,blueskydaystheweatherhereturnedcloudyandwindywithslightdrizzle.Theterrainwasverydifficultunderfootandthis,togetherwiththepoorweather,hamperedoursearchforthetargetbird,MongolianFinch.WegaveitagoodgoandfoundTawnyPipit,SnowfinchandCrimson-wingedFinchbeforewewerespottedbythemilitary(fromawellcamouflagedlava-builtshelter)andweremovedon.WewerenottoodespondentbecauseinformationgleanedinBireciksuggestedMongolianFincheswereeasyatIshakPasha(Ha!)

Above:Theankle-breakinglavafieldsatSerpmetas

Innearbyfloodedfieldswewitnessedamagnificentgroupofc40White-wingedBlackTernsfishingaccompaniedbyasingleGull-billedTern.Onward,andaswecamewithinafewkilometresoftheIranianborderwethoughtcheckpointsecuritymightbetighterbutwewerewavedthroughinfriendlyfashion.AtthesummitofTendurekGecidi(2644m,8725ft)wepassedthroughanotherlavafield‘lunarlandscape’and,everhopeful,stoppedforanothersearch.ThistimeweweresuccessfulbutnotwithMongolianFinch.NolessthantwopairsofRadde’sAccentorsdecidedtogivethemselvesupandweweretreatedtopointblankviewsofonepairrepeatedlycarryingfoodfortheiryoungintoanestsite.

DroppingdownthepasswecametoourclosestapproachtoIranandweretreatedtostunningviewsofMountArarat,Turkey’shighestmountain(5165m,16786ft)beforepassingthroughDogubayazitandontoIshakPashaPalace.

Above:RoutetoIran

Beforewereachedthepalacehowever,wescreechedtoastopattheshoutof‘largeraptor’andweresoon‘scopingapairofLammergeierscirclingthecrags.HavingsecuredouraccommodationatMuratCampingandHotel,nomorethan200mbelowthepalace,wequicklyturnedourthoughtsagaintoMongolianFinch.AbirderatBirecikhadtoldusexactlywherehehadfoundthemonlytwodayspreviously.WehitthespotandsoondiscoveredourpredictionthatGrey-neckedBuntingswereeasyhere,wasaccurate.Another(orsame)coupleofLammergeierscameintoroostasdidapartyofRed-frontedSerinsattheuppercarpark,butnoMongolianFinchesyetagain.Twochancesdownandonlyonemorechancetomorrowmorning!

29thMay.IshakPashaPalaceisinastunninglybeautifullocationperchedonaremotemountaintop.Wewereupearlyyetagainbuttheweatherwasn’thelping-cloudy,rainyandcool.OutontothescreeslopesabovethepalaceandbelowtheLammergeiercragsbutthegoingwasdifficultandwecameawayemptyhanded.Grey-neckedBuntingswereeasyenoughwithatleast4individualsplusasimilarnumberofOrtolanBuntings,afamilypartyofIsabellineWheatearsand2-4TwiteoftheAsiaticformssp.brevirostris(apotentialsplit).ApartyofItalianbirdershadsearchedthesesameslopesallofthepreviousdayforMongolianFinchwithoutsuccess.Itwasn’tlookinggood!BacktoMuratCampingforbreakfast,toregroupanddryoffthenoutagaintothesameslopes,whichmostreportsmentionarethelikeliestplaceforthesebirds,forourfourthandfinalsearch.Theweatherwasimprovingwhen,atlast,3ofuswereaffordedgood,closeflightviewsofasinglemaleMongolianFinch,quitearelief!ThiswasaSaturdayandlocalswereoutinforcesonosurprise,aswenearedthepalace,tobeinvitedtojoinalargegroupofKurdsforteaandcherries-excellentcraicwithhardlyawordofacommonlanguage!

Above:IshakPashaPalace

Above:OrtolanBunting,IshakPasha

Above:ThesearchforMongolianFinch.(Screeslopesonrighthandside)

Weeventuallymovedonat12.30and,aswehadtomakethePonticAlpsbyevening,thiswasinourpre-touritineraryasour2nddedicateddrivingday.Theroadswerenotasgoodaswehopedwithmuchre-constructionworkgoingon(thiswasarecurringthemethroughoutourtourwithhugere-developmentofroadseverywhere).PassingthroughAgriandEleskirtwecrossedSacGecide(2200m)andamidafternooncoffee/sutlacstopgaveusacallingQuail.By-passingErzurumweeventuallyreachedGelinkayavillageinthelateafternoon.GelinkayaisapleasantspotwithriversidemeadowsfullofOrchids.MountainChiffchaffswereeasilyfoundsingingtheirrapid-firesongandCetti’sWarblersabounded,butwecouldn’tlocateaSemi-collaredFlycatcheranywhere.

Above:Gelinkayaorchidmeadows

WeeventuallytoreourselvesawayfromGelinkayaandcrossedAgziacikGecidi(2300m,7260ft)beforereachingIspirasdarknessfell.Wehadadecisiontomakenow,stayinIspirorpushonoveranevenhigherpass,OvitdagiGecidi,tothepreferredHotelGenesisnearSivrikaya.Wechosethelatter.DetailsoftheexactlocationofHotelGenesisaregiveninthepreamblebutsufficeittosaythatwhenweeventuallyarriveditwasclosedtill1stJune.WewereadvisedtotrytheHotelRidos,21kfurthernorthnearIsikdere.Thisisagreathotelbutquiteexpensive.Wedidn’tcareasitwasalatecheck-inandwehaddriven612km/382milesintheday.

30thMay.OutearlywithapackedbreakfastandbacktoSivrikaya.Weparkedup2kmsouthofthevillageandalmostimmediatelyfound2CaucasianGrouse,apairstandingoutprominentlyastheyfedonthesnowpatchesandamongstRhododendronscrub.Theviewswerefairlydistant,notdissimilarto‘scopingtheBlackGrouselekatWorld’sEndforthosewhohavebeenthere.Later,thispairwasjoinedby2moremalesandaterritorialdisputeensued,withmuchposturing.MeanwhileWaterPipitssong-flightedjustbehindus,thesunshoneandthescenerywasbreathtaking.

Above:SearchingforCaucasianGrouse,Sivrikaya

Weslowlyre-crossedOvitdagiGecidi(2600m,8581ft)whereapairofAlpineAccentorsfedandthenslowlybirdedourwaydowntoIspir.ContinuingoursearchforSemi-collaredFlycatcherwedrovedowntheRiverCoruhvalley,withyetmoreextensiveroadworks.ThebirdingwaspleasantenoughwithloadsofMarshWarblers,MountainsChiffchaffs,SyrianWoodpeckersandevenBrownBeartracksinthemud-butnoSemi-collaredFly.

Above:Black-veinedWhites,CoruhValley

Havingfailedontheflycatcherwehadonelasttarget,GreenWarbler,eitherasub-speciesofGreenishWarblerorafullspeciesaccordingtochoiceofyourtaxonomy.ThewoodlandbehindHotelGenesiswasadependablesitebutduringourlateafternoonvisitweheardnothing.WedidpickupacoupleofinterestingsongsphrasesbytheroadsideafewkilometrestothenorthofHotelGenesisbutproceedingswerebroughttoabruptendwhenabrain-deadmotoristletoff10roundsofpistolshotashepassedusinhiscar.So,wereturnedtotheHotelRidosforsomeforluxuriousgluttony.

31stMay.AnearlyreturntoHotelGenesisandthistimenomistakes.AGreenWarblerwasquicklyfoundsingingitsdistinctivesongfromthetopofaconifer,arepetitiveandringing“tee-ter-er,tee-ter-er,tee-ter-er,tee-o”.Oncelearntweheardotherbirdsinthenearvicinity.VisuallyitwassobrightgreenandyellowitresembledasmallWoodWarbler,surelythesplittersarerightthistime?Thecorrecttrackiseasilyfound50mnorthofHotelGenesisontheeastsideoftheroad.

Above:BeginningoftheGreenWarblertracknearHotelGenesis

WethentriedSivrikayaagainandfoundasingingCommonRosefinchbutnogrouseonthisoccasioninaverybriefscan.WedepartedIsikdereat10.15passingaSteppeBuzzard(sspvulpinus)andmadeourwaynorththroughextensiveteaplantationstohittheBlackSeacoastnearRize.Unusuallywenowhadtimeonourhandsand,aftergrillingGulls(Yellow-leggedandCaspian)ontheBlackSea,wepassedthroughTrabzonandthentravelledashortdistancesouthtoSumelaMonastery.

Above:AdultYellow-leggedGulls,BlackSea

Above:1stSummerCaspianGull,BlackSea

Above:2ndSummerCaspianGull,BlackSea

NotonlyisSumelaMonasteryagoodbirdingsitebutthe13thcenturybuilding,perchedhalfwayupacliff,iswellworthalookinitsownright.ItisashameabouttheTurkish,Greek,Russian,AmericanandEnglishgraffitithatdefacetheancientwallpaintings.AsTheRoughGuidesays,“provingthatidiocyisinternational”.Hereweeasilyfoundatleast6GreenWarblersgivingclassictri-syllabiccalls(tiu-u-ee)andouronlyBlackcap.

Above:SumelaMonastery

Above:SumelaMonastery

AllthatremainedwastoreturnourhirecartoTrabzonairportandarrangetheshort,early-hourstaxitransferfromourhotel.

1stJune.FlightsfromTrabzon(06.00)andIstanbul(10.40)wereontimeanduneventfulandwewerebackintheUKat12.00localtime.

LASTTHOUGHTS

Wepackedanawfullotintoour10dayscarhirebutwithaone-waydropoffandacoupleoflongdrivingdaysthisrouteisperfectlyfeasible.Indeedwehardlydidanynightdrivingand,althoughwealwaysgotupearlywhennecessaryandbirdedtilldusk,thetriptookonafairlyrelaxedholidayatmosphereattimes.ThepeoplewemetinTurkeyreallycouldn’thavebeenfriendlierandanypre-tourconcernsregardingourproximitytosensitiveborders,militarycheckpoints,PKKandevensheepdogsallappearedworseonpaperthanontheground.

Wefoundallofourtargets(exceptSemi-collaredFlycatcher)andenjoyedsomeexceptionalbirding,seeingatotalofover200species.

Someacknowledgementsareappropriate.ChrisWorthyprovidedsomeexcellentphotographs.TonyArmstrongputtogetheradifficultitinerary,whichseemedalmostimpossibleattimesandalsobookedaccommodationatDemerkazikandAdana.DougSmithbookedthehotelinIstanbulandtheflights.Isourcedandbookedtheone-waycarhirewithAviswhenthetripwasofthebrinkofcancellationthroughlackofsuitabletransport.Lastbutnotleast,Tony,DougandNeildrovelongmileswithgreatpatienceandaccomplishment.WehadasuperbtripandthoroughlyrecommendEasternTurkeyasabirdingdestination.

JohnRayner,June2010

www.manchesterbirding.com

SYSTEMATICLIST

LittleGrebe:TachybaptusruficollisGravelWorkslagoons,Birecik(4),Euphrates,Birecik(1),roadsidemarsh,LakeErcek(3),

GreatCrestedGrebe:PodicepscristatusLakeVan,Bendimahe(8)

Black-neckedGrebe:PodicepsnigricollisLakeVan,Bendimahe(2)

YelkouanShearwater:PuffinusyelkouanIstanbul,many100smostlymovingfromBlackSeaanddowntheBosphorus

WhitePelican:PelecanusonocrotalusGoksuDelta(2)onlyindistancethroughheathaze

GreatCormorant:PhalacrocoraxcarboIstanbul,afewaroundBosphorus.NearRize,scatteredalongBlackSeacoast.

EuropeanShag:PhalacrocoraxaristotelisIstanbul,GalataBridge(ssp.desmarestii)

PygmyCormorant:PhalacrocoraxpygmaeusBirecik,GravelworkslagoonsandontheEuphrates(groupsofupto40)

GreyHeron:Ardeacinerea4atIstanbuland1atIdilreservoir

LittleEgret:EgrettagarzettaSinglesatHalfetiandLakeVan.ScatteredaroundBirecikarea(6)

SquaccoHeron:ArdeolaralloidesBirecik(c20daily)thecommonestheronhere

Black-crownedNight-Heron:NycticoraxnycticoraxBirecik,upto10noteddailyhere

LittleBittern:IxobrychusminutusBirecik,maxof6daily

WhiteStork:CiconiaciconiaDemirkazik,c80movingnorthat6pmabovevillageofYeltavanthen8on26th.SmallnumbersofbirdsnestingonpylonseastofSanliurfa

BaldIbis(Waldrapp):GeronticuseremitaBirecik,6feedingatGravelWorkslagoonson24thwith9-15presenton25th.Fromthereleaseprogramme.

RuddyShelduck:Tadornaferruginea8AtErcekGoluand2pairsonVanGolunearTatvanandBendimahe.

CommonShelduck:TadornatadornaAtleast4atErcekGoluindistanthazethenBendimahe,1pair.

Mallard:AnasplatyrhynchosAtleast3atroadsidemarsh,ErcekGolu3Gelinkyavillageweretheonlyonesseen.

Garganey:Anasquerquedula1maleatBirecikand2Bendimahe

NorthernShoveler:AnasclypeataApairatBendimaheweretheonlyonesseen.

Red-crestedPochard:NettarufinaGoksuDelta,1femalewithmanyotherunidentifiedduckindistancethroughheathaze.IdilReservoir,1male

CommonPochard:AythyaferinaAsingledrakeatEdremitMarshesandc16onroadsidemarsh,ErcekGolu

FerruginousDuck:AythyanyrocaBirecik,14includingapairwith4youngonsouth-eastbanksofEuphrates

VelvetScoter:MelanittafuscaErcekGolu,Atleast4indistanthaze

White-headedDuck:Oxyuraleucocephala2females,3drakesonEdremitMarshesandapairatroadsidemarsh,ErcekGolu

HoneyBuzzard:PernisapivorusRumeliKavargi,apairoverhillbehindvillage.Then1atDemircili.

BlackKite:MilvusmigransErzurum,1overtheE80nearErzurumtheonlyoneoftrip

Lammergeier:Gypaetusbarbatus2adultsat17.50fromroadbelowIshakPashathen2includingajuvenilegoingtoroostonhighcragsaboveIshakPasha.

Short-toedEagle:CircaetusgallicusSerpmetas,1overlavafield

MarshHarrier:Circusaeruginosus1nearBitlisthen6/8atBendimaheand3ErcekGolu

Sparrowhawk:Accipiternisus1atDemirkaziktheonlyoneoftrip

SteppeBuzzard:Buteobuteo1atSivrikaya(ssp.vulpinus)

Long-leggedBuzzard:ButeorufinusFirst1atDemirkazikthenseenon6dateseastwardsfromherein1'sand2's.

LesserSpottedEagle:AquilapomarinaBirecik,1mobbedbyKestrelsoverpistachioorchardstonorthoftown

GoldenEagle:Aquilachrysaetos2duringwalkdowngorgeatDemirkazikand1aboveCoruhvalley,Ispir.

BootedEagle:Aquilapennatus2aboveCoruhvalley,Ispir

LesserKestrelFalconaumannii2offcliffsatIshakPahainlateafternoonsession

Kestrel:Falcotinnunculus2'sand3'sseendaily

Eleonora'sFalcon:Falcoeleonorae1overTopkapiPalacegardenson18thMaythen1overEuphratesatBirecikon24thMay

Hobby:Falcosubbuteo3callingandchasinginCoruhValley,Ispir

PeregrineFalcon:Falcoperegrinus1-3notedatDemirkazikandatIshakPasha(Sakernoteliminatedatlatter)

CaucasianGrouse:Tetraomlokosiewiczi2maleand1femalefeedingonsnowpatchesandinrhododendronscrubthen2malesdisplaying(onslopes2kmsouthofSivrikayavillage)CaspianSnowcock:TetraogalluscaspiusAt2150monDemirkazikDagic11putonquiteashowfrom05.30-07.30.Callingandposingforphotographsat200mclosest.

Chukar:AlectorischukarDurnalik(c4),IshakPasha(2)

See-seePartridge:Ammoperdixgriseogularis1flushedfromthewadinearIbisCentre,Birecik,then1percheddistantlycallingfrompileofstonesonplateauabove,othersheard

BlackFrancolin:Francolinusfrancolinus1malesingingfromtopofbushatGoksuDelta

Quail:Coturnixcoturnix1heardatroadsidestopinhighplateauareaenroutetoErzurum

Moorhen:GallinulachloropusGravelworkslagoons,Birecik(c6)andBendimahe(1)

Coot:FulicaatraGravelworkslagoonsandSEbanksofEuphrates,Birecik(flocksofc40)

Oystercatcher:HaematopusostralegusAsingletononlyatBendimahe

Black-wingedStilt:Himantopushimantopus12atIdilReservoir,2onroadsidepool,Idilthenc20atErcekGoluandBendimahe

Avocet:RecurvirostraavosettaOnlyatBendimahe(2)

NorthernLapwing:Vanellusvanellusc4pairsbreedingatEdremitMarshesthen1on29thatroadsidestop

Red-wattledLapwing:Vanellusindicus1birdholdingterritoryatIdilreservoirwithvocaldistractionflightsuggestinganothersittingnearby

RingedPlover:CharadriushiaticulaIdilReservoir(4)

LittleRingedPlover:CharadriusdubiusAtleast2pairsnestingonbeachatEdremitMarshes.

Redshank:TringatetanusAtotalofc10(breeding)atEdremitMarshes.

Greenshank:TringanebulariaHeardonlyatIdilReservoirwhilstourattentionwaselsewheresearchingforRed-wattledLapwing.

GreenSandpiper:TringaochropusIdilReservoir,(6)

WoodSandpiper:TringaglareolaIdilReservoir(7)

CommonSandpiper:ActitishypoleucosIdilReservoir(2)then1onBlackSeacoast.

Ruff:PhilomachuspugnaxIdilReservoir(5),Bendimahe(1),BlackSeacoast(1).

Red-neckedPhalarope:Phalaropuslobatus3seenfromroadonedgeofmarshatBendimahe

Yellow-leggedGull:LarusmichahellisIstanbul,commonaroundBosphorous.AlsonotedonbothMediterraneanandBlackSeacoasts.

CaspianGull:Laruscachinnansc20alongBlackSeacoastbut100'sofdistantgullswentunidentified

ArmenianGull:Larusarmenicus100+dailyaroundVanGoluwithsmallernumbersroadsideon29th

Black-headedGull:LarusridibundusIdilReservoir(1)andBendimahe(4)

Slender-billedGull:LarusgeneiIdilReservoir(1)andBendimahe(3/4)

Gull-billedTern:GelochelidonniloticaGravelworkslagoons,Birecik(3)andonfloodedmeadowsonapproachtolavafields,Serpmetas(1)

CommonTern:SternahirundoOnEuphratesatEskiHalfeti(16)thenIdilReservoir(5)

LittleTern:SternulaalbifronsIdilReservoir,2herewereasurprise

WhiskeredTern:Chlidoniashybrida2overroadsidepoolsseenfromE80nearAgri

White-wingedBlackTern:Chlidoniasleucopterusc40overfloodedriverN.ofCaldiranonapproachtolavafields.

RockDove:ColumbaliviaThegenuinearticleplentifulonwalkdownDemerkazikgorge,withferalbirdseveryday.

WoodPigeon:Columbapalumbus8atBendimaheweretheonlybirdsofthetrip.

TurtleDove:Streptopeliaturtur6inorchardthenontrackatDurnalik

Collared-Dove:StreptopeliadecaoctoSmallnumbersinIstanbulandthendailyfromBireciktoTatvan.Probablyoverlookedelsewhere

LaughingDove:StreptopeliasenegalensisIstanbul,c20aroundcity,c10enrouteAdana-GoksuDelta,2or3aroundOzSafakPension,Demirkazik,c8aroundBirecikandsmallnumbersaroundVanGolu.

AlexandrineParakeet:PsittaculaeupatriaSeveralpairsnotedaroundTopkapiandGulhanePark,Istanbulon18thbutonly1atTopkapion21st.

Ring-neckedParakeet:Psittaculakrameric6aroundTopkapiPalace

Cuckoo:CuculuscanorusHeardduringwalkdownDemirkazikGorge,NemrutDagiandIshakPasha(wherecallsresonatingaroundvalley).Upto3seenatIshakPashaincludingarufousmorphfemale.

PaleScopsOwl:Otusbrucei1infullviewatGulhameTeaGardens,Birecik.

LittleOwl:Athenenoctua2enrouteinlateafternoonatZilyaretenroutetoBitlis

Nightjar:Caprimulguseuropaeus1huntingmothsinthelightsatAdanaAirport

AlpineSwift:TachymarptismelbaLownumbergatheringsnotedatduskinIstanbulandthereafteron8dateswithamaximumofc40nestingincliffsatIshakPasha

CommonSwift:ApusapusNotedeverydaywithamaximumofc150circlingBitlisCastle.

LittleSwift:ApusaffinisAsmallnestingcolonyofc20oncliffsneartoBaldIbiscentre.OneofthefewcoloniesinTurkey

PiedKingfisher:CerylerudisGravelworkslagoons(3)andontheEuphrates,Birecik

Bee-eater:MeropsapiasterAsmallbreedingcolonyinnorth-westgravelworks,Birecikthen1-4noteddailyineast.

Roller:CoraciasgarrulousScatteredsightingsaroundBirecikarea(upto8here)then2onpylonson29thatroadsidepicnicstop.

Hoopoe:UpupaepopsFirstatCukurbagthen1-4dailythereafter.

LesserSpottedWoodpecker:Dendrocoposminor2aroundDemirciligraveyard

SyrianWoodpecker:Dendrocopossyriacus1flewacrossroadinlowervalleynearDemirkazikvillage.Apairatnesthole,Durnalikand3,including2malesindispute,Coruhvalley,Ispir.

GreenWoodpecker:PicusviridisHeardnearGelinkyavillageand1seenCoruhValley,Ispir.

CalandraLark:Melanocoryphacalandra1atBendimahetheonlysighting.

BimaculatedLark:Melanocoryphabimaculata1ontheLHStrackoffquarryroad,Durnalik.8ongrassyfieldsbelowvolcano,NemrutDagi,(someinsongflight).1-2ErcekGolu.

Short-toedLark:Calandrellabrachydactylac12onfieldsoutsideCukurbagvillageappearedtobethenominatespeciesandc8ingrasslandbelowNemrutDagivolcano(insongflighthere).

LesserShort-toedLark:CalandrellarufescensAtleast5indryfieldsnearBendimahevillageincludedmalesbothinsongflightanddisplayontheground,femalesunimpressed!

CrestedLark:GaleridacristataWidespreadfromGoksuDelta(c20)toandIdilReservoir(c30)butnotrecordedafter27thMay.

Woodlark:LullulaarboreaNemrutDagi(3)bytracksinsidecraterthenasinglenotedIshakPasha

Skylark:Alaudaarvensisc3insongflightoverfieldsbeforelavafields,Serpemetas

HornedLark:EremophilaalpestrisSsp.penicillatawidespreadinmountainse.g.Demirkazik(8)alongtrackabovefootballpitch.NemrutDagi(15)ontracktosummit.TendurekGecidi,smallnumbers.

SandMartin:RipariaripariaNumerous,widespreadandrecordedalmostdailythroughtoPonticmountainse.g.GoksuDelta(c20),GravelWorkslagoons,Birecik(c100)andahugenestingcolony(100s)onapproachroadtolavafields,Serpmetas

CragMartin:PtyonoprognerupestrisFairlycommoninsuitablemountainhabitatandnotedon6dates

BarnSwallow:HirundorusticaNoteddailyfromIstanbulthroughtotheBlackSea

Coast

Red-rumpedSwallow:CecropisdauricaGoksuDelta(c10),Durnalikarea(2)andEskiHalfeti(4)weretheonlyrecords

HouseMartin:DelichonurbicumFirstinIstanbulandthereafterseenon5dates.BestcountwasatSumelaMonastery(c40)

WhiteWagtail:MotacillaalbaWidespreadandcommon

YellowWagtail:MotacillaflavaWidespreadwithsomestunning‘Black-headedWagtails’ssp.feldeggnoted,especiallyinVanarea.

GreyWagtail:Motacillacinerea1NearBitlismosque,1inIspircentreand1inlowervalleybelowSumelaMonastery.

TawnyPipit:AnthuscampestrisSmallnumbersatlavafields(4),Serpmetas,NemrutDagi(c10)andBendimahe(1).

WaterPipit:Anthusspinoletta.ManyinsongflightalongOvitdagiGecidibutnotnotedanywhereelse.

White-spectacledBulbul:Pycnonotusxanthopygos2satDermiciligraveyardarea,DurnalikandBirecik.

Goldcrest:RegulusregulusAsingletonatHotelGenesiswoodland,Sivrikaya,othersheardhereandSumelaMonastery.

Dipper:Cincluscinclus1or2on30thand31stMayonapproachroadtoHotelRidos,Isikdere.

Wren:Troglodytestroglodytes 4onwalkdownDemirkazikgorgeandthenheardelsewheree.g.inSivrikayaandSumelaMonasteryareas.

AlpineAccentor:PrunellacollarisDemirkazik(Aminimumof3),NemrutDagi(8)oncragsbelowtracktosummit,Sivrikaya(2)atOvitdagisummit.

Radde'sAccentor:Prunellaocularis1atfootofscreeinNemrutDagicraterthen4onlavafieldsatTendurekGecedisummitenroutetoDogubayazitincludingapaircarryingfoodforyoung.Wefoundthistobeaskulkerandeasilymissed.

RockThrush:MonticolasaxatilisNemrutDagi,1singingontracktosummitandanotherinsidecrater.Atleast3onTendurekGecidilavafields.

BlueRockThrush:Monticolasolitarius13Individualson6daysinthemountainsincludedc4atDemerkazik.

RingOuzel:Turdustorquatus2heard‘chacking’inNemrutDagicraterledtothediscoveryofourfirstRadde’sAccentor.

Blackbird:TurdusmerulaNotedon5daysbutmostprominentinPonticAlps

SongThrush:Turdusphilomelos1seenbrieflyatHotelGenesis,othersheard

ZittingCisticola:CisticolajuncidisCommonatGoksuDeltaandBirecik(c10eachsite)

GracefulPrinia:PriniagracilisGoksuDeltac8singing,BirecikGravelworkslagoons(c12,fairlycommon).

Cetti'sWarbler:CettiacettiHeardon6datesinawiderangeofaltitudesandparticularlyplentifulatGelinkaya,butonlyseenatBirecik

MoustachedWarbler:AcrocephalusmelanopogonSinglesatBirecikonbothdaysatGravelWorkslagoons.

ReedWarbler:Acrocephalusscirpaceusc10atBirecikonbothdaysatGravelWorkslagoons(ssp.fuscus)

MarshWarbler:Acrocephaluspalustris2seenandmoreheardalongCoruhRivervalley,Ispir.

GreatReedWarbler:AcrocephalusarundinaceusGravelworkslagoonsBirecik,(3seen,manymoreheard)1mobbedby2ReedWarblershere.AlsoEdremitMarshes(c6).

EasternOlivaceousWarbler:HippolaispallidaLownumbersrecordedatGoksuDelta,Cukurbag,BirecikandCoruhValley,Ispir(e.g.3alongRiverCoruhvalleybutmoreheard)

Upcher'sWarbler:HippolaislanguidaRathereasyatDurnalikwithc12inthearea.

Olive-treeWarbler:HippolaisolivetorumTopkapigardensIstanbul(2),RumeliKavargi(3)andalsonotedsinginglateeveningatBirecik.Morewidespreadthan‘BirdsofTurkey’indicates.

MountainChiffchaff:PhylloscopussindianusImmediatelypickedupbydistinctivesongatGelinkyavillage(c4)andatCoruhvalley,Ispir(4),butmoreheardthanseen.

GreenWarbler:Phylloscopustrochiloidesssp.nitidus2heardnearpicnic/tuvaletareaapprox1knorthofHotelGenesis,Sivrikayaon30thMayand1atHotelGenesisnextdaysingingfromtopofconiferabovesmallstream.Arepetitiveringing"tee-ter-ertee-ter-ertee-ter-ertee-o".AlsoatSumelaMonastrywherelotsheardand6seenbotharoundmonastryandinlowervalley(callasharptri-syllabic'tiu-u-ee').Visually,similartoasmallWoodWarbler.

Blackcap:Sylviaatricapilla1inSumelaMonasterygardens.

Whitethroat:Sylviacommunis1IshakPashaby2ndcarparkabovethepalace.1Gelinkyavillage,inroadsidescrub.

LesserWhitethroat:SylviacurrucaSurprisinglycommoninDemirkazikareaandalsoaroundBirecik.

OrpheanWarbler:Sylviacrassirostris1singingloudlyontrackbeyondCukurbagvillage(byfirstbridge)andanestbuildingpairatDurnalik.

Ruppell'sWarbler:Sylviarueppellii1malenearDemirciligraveyard

Menetries'sWarbler:SylviamystaceaAminimumof9seeninwadinexttoBaldIbiscentre,Birecik.

EuropeanRobin:ErithacusrubeculaOnlyseeninwoodlandatSumelaMonastryalthoughheardelsewhereinPontics.

Nightingale:LusciniamegarhynchosGelinkyavillage,1seenbyriver.

White-throatedRobin:Iraniagutturalis2bytrackbeyondCukurbag(byfirstbridge)and2onlefthandsidetrackoffthequarryroad,Durnalik.

Rufous-tailedScrub-Robin:CercotrichasgalactotesSinglesatDurnalik,IsikliandBirecikbutnodoubtoverlookedelsewhere.Ratherwashed-outindividuals,sspsyriacus.

BlackRedstart:Phoenicurusochruros Sspochruroswithorangeredbelly.Widespreadandcommon.Notedon7dateswithamaxofc20inDemerkazikarea.

Whinchat:Saxicolarubetra1maleoutsidevillageSivrikaya.

NorthernWheatear:OenantheoenantheSurprisinglywidespreadandcommon,notedon7dateswithmaximaof10atDemerkazikand8NemrutDagi.

Finsch'sWheatear:OenanthefinschiiDemirkazik(3)andatIsikliontrackbyvillagestore(1)

Black-earedWheatear:OenanthehispanicaSsp.melanoleucawidespread.E.g.Demircili,aroundthegraveyardarea,Cukurbag,nestingbyfirstbridge(trackbeyondCukurbagvillage),Isikli,familypartyandSerpmetas,smallnumbersatlavafields.

KurdishWheatear:OenanthexanthoprymnaAfamilypartyof4plusanotherfemaleinsidevalley(withpylons)atIsikli.Oftenregardedasaseparatespecies(splitfromRed-tailedWheatearO.chrysopygia).Wenotedmuchconfusioninlit.andtripreportswithnomenclature.

IsabellineWheatear:OenantheisabellinaQuitecommoninrighthabitatatNemrutDagiandIshakPashawithdoublefigurecountsincludingfamilyparties.

IraqBabbler:TurdoidesaltirostrisArecentcolonisttothistheonlysiteinWesternPalearctic.Upto6notedinmixedreed/shrubareasofnorth-westfloodedgravelpitsatBirecik.

SombreTit:Poecilelugubrisc4inpinewoodlandoppositeDermiciligraveyard,atleast2pairsintheDurnalikarea,2outsideIsiklivillage.

CoalTit:PeriparusaterSmallnumbersinconiferouswoodlandatHotelGenesis,SivrikayaandSumelaMonastery.

GreatTit:ParusmajorNotedatIstanbulandthenonmostdaysexceptbetweenBirecikandTatvan.

BlueTit:CyanistescaeruleusCoruhvalley,Ispir(3),RidosHotel,Isikdere(2)

Kruper’sNuthatch:Sittakrueperic4inpinewoodlandoppositeDermiciligraveyardincludingapairwithfoodenteringnestholenear‘pumphouse15'.

WesternRockNuthatch:SittaneumayerWidespread.MaximumcountintheDurnalik/Isikliarea(15-20)butalsofoundatDermekazik,NemrutDagi,TendurekGecediandIshakPasha.

EasternRockNuthatch:Sittatephronotac6intheDurnalik/Isikliarea,somecarryingfood,andalsoheardatBirecik.Verydistinctive.

GoldenOriole:OriolusoriolusTheonlybirdofthetripwasheardatEskiHalfetibytheEuphrates.

Red-backedShrike:LaniuscollurioSurprisinglyfew.1Topkapigardens,Istanbuland1Cukurbagweretheonlydefinitesightings.

MaskedShrike:Laniusnubicus1roadsideatGoksuDeltathen1on23rdfromE90.

WoodchatShrike:LaniussenatorSporadic.AconcentrationatDurnalikwith4-6seen,theonlyotherbeing1nearErcekGolu.Probablyoverlooked.

Jay:GarrulusglandariusCommoninPinewoods,Demircili(ssp.anatoliae)andinPontics(ssp.atricapillus).

Magpie:PicapicaNotedmostdaysexceptbetweenBirecikandBitlis.

Red-billedChough:Pyrrhocoraxpyrrhocorax32nearYelatanvillage,c80intheDemirkazikareaespeciallyinfieldsbeyondCukurbagandlowernumbersatIshakPasha.

Yellow-billedChough:Pyrrhocoraxgraculusc12intheareaofDemirkazikMountainandgorge.

Jackdaw:CorvusmonedulaNotedmostdays,somebirdsineastshowingmorefrostedsilveronnapeandwhiteflashesonsidesofneck,possiblyssp.soemmeringii).

Rook:Corvusfrugilegusc20arounddumpnearNemrutDagithennotedinVanGoluareaandc80dailyinPontics.

HoodedCrow:CorvuscornixSeenindoublefigurecountsonalmosteveryday.

CommonRaven:Corvuscorax3atOvitdagiPass,Sivrikaya,(and1on31st).Overlooked.

Rose-colouredStarling:PastorroseusSeveralflockstotalingc200onapproachroadtoErcekGoluincludedsomenicedisplayingmales.

EuropeanStarling:SturnusvulgarisWidespread,notedeveryday

HouseSparrow:PasserdomesticusCommonaroundIstanbul,thenseenindoublefiguresoneveryotherday.

DeadSeaSparrow:PassermoabiticusOnlynotedinsmallnumbersatBirecik.

TreeSparrow:PassermontanusDoublefigurecountinLowerGorge,DemirkazikandDurnalikthensmallerflocksinCoruhValley,Ispir.

Yellow-throatedSparrow(Chestnut-shoulderedPetronia):Petroniaxanthocollisc6inPistachiofields,Birecik(onroadbyOtopetrolstation,northofBaldIbiscentre)and2onsouth-eastbanksofEuphrates,Birecik.

RockSparrow:PetroniapetroniaAsmallroostinlowergorge,Demirkazikwithmanyseenhereon23rdandthenprominentatDurnalik/Isikli,BirecikandIspir.

PaleRockSparrow:Carpospizabrachydactyla1ontrackbeyondquarry,Durnalikandthen2insidevalley(withpylons)atIsikli.

Snowfinch:MontifringillanivalisNumerousatDemirkazik(c25)thenNemrutDagi(6),SerpmetasLavafield(c4)andonOvitdagiGecedi.Sspleucuraismuchpaleronupperpartsthannominateform.

Chaffinch:FringillacoelebsNotedatIstanbul,Demirkazik,TatvanandSivrikaya

CommonRosefinch:CarpodacuserythrinusSivrikaya,animmaturemaleinsong.

Greenfinch:CarduelischlorisHeardonlyatSivrikaya

Goldfinch:CardueliscarduelisLownumbersnotedDemircili,ErcekGoluandIshakPasha.(Sspniediecki).

Twite:CarduelisflavirostrisIshakPasha(2)onslopesabovethepalace(AsianTwitessp.brevirostrislookingremarkablypale).

Linnet:Cardueliscannabina Demirkazik,quitecommonhere.AlsoatIsikli,NemrutDagi,SerpmetasandIshakPasha(Sspbella'TurkestanLinnet'-largerpalerwithunstreakedwhiterump.Apossiblesplit).

Red-frontedSerin:Serinuspusillus c.10atcloserangeinDemerkazikgorge,thereaftersmallernumbersseenatNemrutDagi,TendurekGecediandIshakPasha.Alittlebeauty.

Serin:Serinusserinus2outsideIsiklivillageand3inpinesatHotelGenesis

Crimson-wingedFinch:RhodopechyssanguineusAperchedsingletonemergedaslowcloudclearedonDemirkazikMagi,with3morelateronnewroadnearfootballpitch.Apairatlavafields,Serpmetas.(Thisdark-throatedformssp.sanguineusisapossiblesplitfromAtlasMountainstaxassp.alienus).

MongolianFinch:Bucanetesmongolicus1maleseenwellinflightaftermuchsearching.(AfterdippingatSerpmetasinwindyconditionsittook3moresessionsheretoconnect,hardwork).

DesertFinch:Rhodospizaobsolete2seenbrieflybyroadsideatDurnalik.

RockBunting:EmberizaciaSinglebirdsnotedon7datesfromDemerkazik,NemrutDagi,IshakPashaandPontics.

Grey-neckedBunting:Emberizabuchanani2lateon28thMayatIshakPasha,thenc4thenextdayontheslopesabovethepalaceduringtheMongolianFinchsearch.

CinereousBunting:EmberizacineraceaGoodnumbersfoundintheDurnalikarea(c20)

OrtolanBunting:EmberizahortulanaAtNemrutDagiwithafemaleontracktothesummitwithsomesingingmalesinsidethecrater.Alsoatc6IshakPasha.

Cretzschmar'sBunting:Emberizacaesiac4atDermiciligraveyard

Black-headedBunting:EmberizamelanocephalaWidespreadwithsinglefigurecountsnotedon7dates.

ReedBunting:EmberizaschoeniclusOnly1seenatEdremitMarshes(ssp.reiseri).

CornBunting:EmberizacalandraFairlywidespreadwithsingingbirdson6dates.