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Fashion in History: A Global Look
Tutor: Giorgio Riello
Week 20
Tueday 2 March 2010
Subcultures: Zoots to Chays
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Dick Hebrige, Subculture: The Meaning of Style (London and New York, 1977), pp. 47-70: ch. 4. HC 1411.H3 (Also available as e-book).
David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style (Oxford, 2000), pp. 131-155: ch. 7 ‘Resistance, Incorporation and Authenticity’. HD 5800.M8
Ted Polhemus, ‘Trickle Down, Bubble Up’, in Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun (eds.), The Fashion Reader (Oxford, 2007), pp. 327-331.
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Skinhead wearing Fred Perry
Scene from the Film This is England, 2007
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2. Subcultures from the 1930s to the 1980s
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"a killer-diller coat with a drape shape, reet pleats and shoulders padded like a lunatic's cell.“
Malcolm X
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Teddy Boys 1962
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Rockers 1964
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Mods in Brighton 1964Sixties fashion Mod Rockers Newcastle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqbS7pxsTj8&feature=related
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Students’ Protests in 1968
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Woodstock festival, 15-18 August 1969
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Amnesia’s members in 1976
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Skinheads – Suedheadshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd_GcDz7UQc
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Quentin Crisp (1908-99), author of The Naked Civil Servant (1968)
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Village People in the late 1970s 1980 thriller, Cruising starring Al Pacino
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Frankie goes to Hollywood and ‘Relax’
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPLrXFw76Qg&feature=related
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Gay subcultures became mainstream: The 2007 Cincinnati Gay Pride and the cover of the gay magazine Attitude
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3. Subcultures, Styles and Fashion
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David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style (Oxford, 2000), pp. 131-155: ch. 7 ‘Resistance, Incorporation and Authenticity’. HD 5800.M8
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“If you see someone who, it just looks like they’ve just gone out and spent two hundred pounds in London on the right punk gear and someone’s put the safety pins through it for them and someone’s put the studs on for ‘em and that, that’s not right, is it? What’s the fun of that?”
Cit. in David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: Postmodern Meaning of Style (2000), p. 145.
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Sex Pistols - bill grundy tv showhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p25SdQEnhHI
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4. Subcultures and Fashion: Theoretical Implications
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Paul Blumberg, The Decline and Fall of the Status Symbol: Some Thoughts on Status in a Post-industrial Society’, Social Problems, 21, No. 4 (1974), pp. 480-498.
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Cybermod
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New Age Glam
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Mohican Punk
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Grafiti
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Pervs and Trannies
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Barbaric Dolls
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Fetish
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Chavs hitting Burberry in the pockethttp://search.bbc.co.uk/cgi-bin/search/results.pl?tab=av&q=chavs&scope=all
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Tainted Love1964 Gloria Joneshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSehtaY6k1U
1980 Soft Cell http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3fCFkl-BFU
2001 Marilyn Mansonhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQuKo3SevVA
2005 Pussycat dollshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w37thYX6aYM