Dancing Around the Ring of Fire: Tensions with Tourism at Up Helly Aa
in Lerwick, Shetland
Dr Rebecca FinkelQueen Margaret University, Edinburgh
Outline
Research Methods
Background of Shetland & Up Helly Aa
Ethnographic observations
Ethos of community festival
Identifying tourist tensions
'Tourist gaze' (Urry, 2001)
Burn, burn, burn?
Research Methods
Participant & Direct Observation (2007) In-depth interviews with ex-Jarls & Volunteers Conversations with Lerwick residents Student 'gatekeeper' facilitated access
Geography
Shetland lies across the 60th line of Latitude North with the capital Lerwick almost sitting in the centre of a triangle formed by connecting Aberdeen (Scotland), with Bergen (Norway) and Torshavn (Faroe Islands).
Background of Up Helly Aa
Last Tuesday in January Only men participating in ritual activities First in 1878 – annually in 1889 Torch-lit processions --> Longship on fire -->
Dancing at the halls
Festival linked to Shetland Identity
Defining collective sense of self apart from mainland
More Norwegian than Scottish (Callahan, 1998) Reproduction & celebration of idea of heritage Generational and diasporic Reimagining future of festival and Shetland based
on reconstructed past Every element has significance and meaning
Funding leads to autonomy
Personal & private funding – local biz No council 'tick boxes' Feel can exclude outsiders and 'others' to preserve
'tradition' Tensions with Visit Shetland Tensions with 'official' marketing and media Increase in flights
Reeling around tourists
Town Hall only Limited tickets Liminal spaces for locals only – tourists on
periphery Limited accommodation Limited restaurants Limited retail options
Two-stepping with tourists
Financial benefits Social benefits
Share heritage Reconfirm identity
Sustainability benefits Seasonality benefits Don't participate, so what's the harm?
Re-negotiation under 'tourist gaze'
'Authenticity' issues Denial – uncomfortable Embrace – commercial? Making a 'destination'
Cruise ships Eco / outdoor tourism Food tourism
Resistance to standardisation and instrumental agendas
Questions?