©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 1
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 2
Copyright © 2018 by Christine J. Dalziel.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any
form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods,
without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in
critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission
requests, write to the publisher, addressed “Attention: Permissions Coordinator,” at the address below.
Christine J. Dalziel / Joybilee® Farm Media
Box 667
Greenwood, BC, V0H 1J0
JoybileeFarm.com
Ordering Information:
Quantity sales. Special discounts are available on quantity purchases by corporations, associations, and
others. For details, contact the “Special Sales Department” at the address above.
Natural Soap Making: The Workbook / Christine J. Dalziel. —1st ed.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 3
Soap Making for Beginners ........................................................................................................................... 5
Essential equipment and supplies ................................................................................................................ 6
Liquids used in soap making ..................................................................................................................... 7
Fatty Acids: the constituents of oils .......................................................................................................... 8
Cautions: ................................................................................................................................................. 10
Exact measurements ............................................................................................................................... 10
Important terms to know: .......................................................................................................................... 11
Specialty Soap Recipes ................................................................................................................................ 15
Laundry Stain Remover Bar..................................................................................................................... 15
Skin Care Soaps ........................................................................................................................................... 17
Rose Soap ................................................................................................................................................ 17
Green Tea Soap ....................................................................................................................................... 18
Calendula Soap ........................................................................................................................................ 19
Anti-itch Oats and Honey Soap ............................................................................................................... 20
Coffee Soap ............................................................................................................................................. 22
Pumpkin Spice Soap ................................................................................................................................ 23
Peppermint Patty Soap ........................................................................................................................... 24
Shampoo Bars ............................................................................................................................................. 27
Chamomile Shampoo Bars for Fair Hair .................................................................................................. 27
Rosemary Shampoo Bars for Dark Hair................................................................................................... 28
Soap Making Worksheet ............................................................................................................................. 30
How to Create Your Own Soap Recipes ...................................................................................................... 31
How to use a lye calculator ..................................................................................................................... 31
Here are a few lye calculators to try out: ............................................................................................... 32
Final Thoughts ............................................................................................................................................. 32
ABOUT THE AUTHOR ............................................................................................................................... 33
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 5
Soap Making 101, learn the basics of natural herbal soap making while making bar soaps, laundry
boosters, and shampoo bars for personal use and for gifts.
Soap Making for Beginners
What you need to know:
All recipes in this class make 3 pounds of soap or approximately 9 – 5 ounce bars (140 grams per bar)
You can use the soap recipes for bar soap, shampoo bars, shower soaps, soap-on-a-rope, gifts, door
prizes, party favors.
Since soap has to cure for at least 3 weeks before using, if you plan to give soap as a gift this December,
plan to make your soap in November at the latest. Homemade soap has a shelf life of a year or more.
There are beautiful bars of soap that have been aged for 5, 10, 15, and even 20 years. Like fine wine
traditionally made cold processed soaps get better with age.
Time Frame: Allow 40 minutes hands on time per batch of soap, including clean up.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 6
Essential equipment and supplies
Equipment:
A 3 pound soap mold (50 ounces or 1500 grams) Like this one:
https://www.brambleberry.com/10-silicone-loaf-mold--p5199.aspx or a 6 quart plastic shoe
box like this: https://amzn.to/2PD1izX
A scale that measures accurately in grams from 10 grams to 5 kilograms
2 heat proof glass measuring cups – 8 cup and 4 cup sizes
A stick blender that is dishwasher safe at the business end
A silicone spatula
Safety equipment (see below)
Ingredients:
Lye crystals (sodium hydroxide)
Olive oil
Coconut oil
Castor Oil
Tallow (beef, sheep, or goat) (optional)
Other oils: sunflower oil, jojoba oil, avocado butter, cocoa butter, and shea butter in 200 gram
amounts
30 ml essential oils per batch (2 % dilution): Choose from lavender essential oil, anise essential
oil, lemon essential oil, sweet orange essential oil, peppermint essential oil, pine or spruce
essential oil, bergamot, rose geranium, sandalwood, or the essential oils of your choice
Herbs:
2 ounces per batch (choose from):
Chamomile
Coffee
Lavender
Rose
Rosemary
Sunflower Petals
Green Tea
Herbal infused olive oils:
2 cups per batch in place of olive oil
Chamomile infused oil
Calendula infused oil
Sunflower petal infused oil
Rosemary infused oil
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 7
Liquids used in soap making All liquids should be at room temperature or colder before adding lye crystals. Adding lye crystals to
hot liquids can cause injury, chemical burns, and damage to furniture, flooring, or worse. Always wear
safety equipment (gloves, googles, long sleeves, apron or lab coat from the time you open the bottle of
lye until the batch of soap is safely in the mold.)
Water
Herbal tea
Coffee
Goat’s Milk
Cow’s Milk
Milk alternatives
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 8
Fatty Acids: the constituents of oils All liquid and solid oils are made up of several fatty acids in different proportions. You’ve probably
heard of Omega 3 fatty acid (linolenic) and Omega 6 fatty acid. These are the building blocks of many of
the oils that we use in soap making, and in DIY skin care products and first aid products. Understanding
the major fatty acids that common vegetable oils and animal fats are made up of can give us wisdom in
which oils to choose for soap making.
Here’s a list of the main fatty acids and what they contribute to soap making
Lauric Acid offers hardness to bar soap. It gives a fluffy lather and cleans well. It can be drying if it is
used in a very high percentage in your soap. Found in coconut oil, palm oil, and babassu oil.
Linoleic Acid adds conditioning and moisturizing properties to soap. It adds moisturizing and skin
healing properties to the soap. It has a short shelf life so soaps with a high percentage of linoleic acid
can go rancid. Found in flax seed oil, hempseed oil, and several nut and seed oils.
Linolenic Acid adds conditioning and moisturizing properties to your soap creating a very mild finished
product.
Myristic Acid provides hardness to bar soap. It gives good cleansing properties and a fluffy lather. Too
much myristic acid can be drying. It is found in coconut oil.
Oleic Acid also adds conditioning and moisturizing properties to your soap. It lathers well and offers
slip to the feel of the lather. It is the main fatty acid in olive oil.
Palmitic Acid adds hardness to bar soap and gives a creamy/stable lather. Too much can be drying.
Ricinoleic Acid found in castor oil, adds conditioning properties, and gives a rich, creamy, fluffy lather
that is beneficial in shamoo bars and shaving bars. Use it only in small amounts.
Stearic Acid provides hardness to soap. It also gives a stable, rich lather. It is found in tallow, cocoa
butter, and shea butter.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 9
The following table is a brief overview of different soap oils and their properties. This is not an
exhaustive list.
Oil Hardness Lather Moisturizing Nourishment Vitamins Fatty Acids
Percent of recipe
Best Use Shelf Life
Argan Soft X Vitamin A,E 10 Skin/Hair 2 yr
Avocado Butter
Soft A,B,D,E Oleic, palmitic, linoleic
12 Skin 3 yr
Castor Soft Good X Rincinoleic 10 Shampoo 2 yr
Cocoa Butter
Hard X Palmitic, Stearic, Oleic
15 Skin 2 yr
Coconut Hard Excellent Drying Lauric, Myristic
33 - 66 All soap 1 ½ yr
Jojoba Soft Oleic 10 All soap
Hempseed Soft Creamy X Linoleic, Linolenic
10 Skin
Olive Soft Creamy X Oleic, linoleic,
Up to 100
All soap 2 yr
Shea butter
Hard Creamy X Stearic, oleic 10 skin 2 yr
Sunflower Soft Excellent X Linoleic, oleic 20 Skin ½ yr
Tallow Hard Creamy, Stable
Stearic, oleic Up to 66 Laundry, tough cleaning
3 yr
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 10
Cautions: Soap making involves working with chemicals that can be dangerous if misused or mishandled.
Do not make soap if you are tired, under the influence of drugs or alcohol, or have multiple
distractions. Do not text and make soap at the same time.
Do not make soap with pets or children under foot.
Do not make soap with young children. Soap making is not the same as making cookies with
young children. Green soap can burn young, tender skin. The fumes from soap making can burn
young lungs. Always be sure young children are safely out of the way of any soap making
activity.
Young people that are capable of understanding the dangers and precautions necessary for safe
handling of chemicals can be taught to make soap safely. (Parental discretion advised)
Keep white vinegar close by when working with lye. Flush any splashed lye on skin immediately
with vinegar to neutralize the caustic. If lye is splashed on wooden furniture or clothing
neutralize it immediately with vinegar. If lye is splashed in the eyes rinse immediately and get
medical help.
Keep the soap making area well ventilated and use fans to aim the lye fumes away from people
and out a window. If possible make soap out of doors.
Important safety equipment:
Safety glasses
Rubber gloves
Long sleeved shirt
Well ventilated room or chemical respirator
1 jug of white vinegar for first aid
Exact measurements Soap making is a chemical process that involves precise measurements of water, oil, and lye to create a
different substance all together – soap. In soap there is no longer any water, oil, or lye but an entirely
different product. The process that converts oil, water, and lye molecules to soap molecules is called
saponification.
In order for saponification to be successful it’s important that all ingredients in the soap making process
are measured exactly by weight. I’ve used grams instead of ounces in this course because grams are
usually used in scientific processes. Your scale should be able to measure in both grams and ounces,
and allow you to toggle between them.
Herbs are measured in volume measures. The weight of the herbs in not essential in the saponification
process.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 11
Important terms to know:
Castile/Castille Soap
Castile soap (also: Castille soap) is a mild soap made using primarily olive oil. Because olive oil alone
makes a very soft bar, some people use the term generically as a marketing term to describe a vegetable
based soap.
Cure
The process of allowing new soap to complete saponification and for excess moisture to evaporate out.
This creates a harder soap that's easier to use, produces better lather, and is milder.
Fatty Acids
The constituents of saturated fats and polyunsaturated fats which give them specific characteristics,
which they contribute to the final soap. By understanding fatty acids you can choose the characteristics
of your final bar soap with confidence, simply by choosing which oils to add to the soap recipe.
Lye Discount
A reduction in the amount of lye used in the soap to make it milder and moisturizing. A discount of lye
allows the lye to be used up completely in the saponification process, increasing the amount of free oils
and fat left to moisturize the skin. Discounts are often shown as a percentage. The soaps made in this
masterclass have a 3 to 7% lye discount.
Gel
Gel, or "gel phase", is a phase that occurs during saponification. During the gel phase, the soap will begin
to look more translucent and shiny, like Vaseline, and give off heat. In cold-process soap-making, this
often occurs within a few minutes to a few hours after you pour the soap into molds.
Hand Milling
Hand milling (see: REBATCHING) is a way to produce soap from already existing soap. This allows you to
make soap - adding the colors and scents that you prefer - without actually going through the chemical
process of making soap from scratch. Existing soap is grated, melted down, then reformed after colors,
fragrances, and any other "extras" have been added.
Lye (Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH, Caustic Soda)
Lye is the base, or alkali, used in making hard soaps (as opposed to liquid soaps, which use potassium
hydroxide.) Lye is extremely caustic and should be handled with care. It’s important to use safety
equipment, like gloves and protective goggles, when handling lye and to avoid breathing in the fumes.
Potash (Potassium Hydroxide, KOH, Caustic Potash)
Potassium Hydroxide is the base, or alkali, used in making liquid soaps. It replaces the lye used in hard
soaps. The different chemical structure of potassium hydroxide, compared to lye, allows liquid soaps to
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 12
stay liquid after they are made. (Liquid soap making is an advanced soap making technique and not
covered in this manual.)
Rancid
Soap, like other organic material, may spoil or go bad. A good quality, basic soap can usually be stored
for at least a year. The best traditional soaps are aged for years, getting better as they age. However,
soaps that include fruits or vegetables (for fragrance, color, or texture) can go bad much faster, as these
items may begin to rot or mold. Some delicate oils can also shorten the shelf-life of soap.
Rebatching
The process of melting down existing soap to create new soap. The term "rebatching" is often used
when a soap-maker creates a soap that doesn't quite work. Rather than throw the soap away, it can be
melted down and "fixed" (for example, if the soap has lye remaining in it - it is not usable. But, by
melting the soap down, you can add additional oils to correct the lye imbalance, and salvage the soap.)
Saponification
The chemical process by which an alkaline base (lye, potassium hydroxide) reacts with fatty acids to
produce soap.
Saponification Value (Saponification Number, SAP Number, SAP Value)
The number of milligrams of lye or potassium hydroxide required to completely saponify one gram of a
specific fat. If you are creating your own soap recipe, you need to know the saponification values for
each oil that you are using in your soap, to properly balance the oils and lye. NOTE: this number is
DIFFERENT for lye (solid soap) and potassium hyroxide (liquid soap). You should always be clear, when
looking up a saponification value online, which hydroxide is referred to. In this course we will use an
soap calculator to calculate the lye needed for each soap recipe, rather than relying on algebra.
Saponification Calculator or soap calculator
An application online or spreadsheet that calculates the amount of lye required to react with the oils in
a soap recipe. I use this one and this one.
Seize
Seizing is a sign that something has gone wrong while making soap. When soap seizes, it goes from a
smooth, liquid consistency to an incredibly thick, nearly solid (like cookie-dough) state almost instantly.
It can be caused by fragrance oils that were added, issues with the temperatures of the soap or
ingredients, or other problems with the batch of soap.
Superfatting – (also called a lye discount)
Adding additional oils to soap, beyond what is needed to use up all of the lye. This serves two purposes:
it gives you a margin of error in your lye measurements so you know for sure that all of the lye in your
soap will be saponified, thus eliminating the risk of free lye remaining in the finished soap, which would
be caustic. It also creates a moisture-rich bar of soap. The extra oils serve as moisturizes for your skin.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 13
When making laundry soap or soap for household cleaning use no more than a 3% lye discount. Excess
oils can leave a greasy film on clothing and furnishings.
Tallow
Processed (rendered) fat from cows, goats, or sheep. Historically, tallow was the fatty acid used in soap
making. It makes a hard bar of soap with a creamy lather. Today, it is used much less frequently.
Tare (Zero Out)
A function on scales that allows you to temporarily reset the weight to zero. This is useful if you are
adding multiple ingredients to one bowl. You place the empty bowl on the scale and the weight of the
bowl is shown. When you "tare" the scale at this point, the scale will display zero, although the bowl is
still there. You can now add the first ingredient and see its weight alone, without the bowl's weight. You
can then tare your scale again, and add a second ingredient. If you do not have a tare function, you will
need to manually track the weight of each ingredient.
Trace
The state, when mixing lye and oils, where saponification begins. At this point, the chemical reaction has
started, and the ingredients cannot be separated from each other. Trace can be identified by dripping a
little bit of the liquid soap on top of the mixture, and noticing how it tends to hold its shape for a few
seconds before melting back into the mixture.
Your first batch of cold process soap
Yield: 9 – 5 ounce bars of soap
Prepare your work area
Gather your safety equipment:
Goggles
Gloves
White vinegar bottle
Soap making equipment:
3 pound or 6 quart mold
Silicone mold release spray
8 cup glass measuring cup
4 cup glass measuring cup
Wooden spoon
Spatula
Mixing spoon
Hand blender
Digital scale (grams)
Paper plate
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 14
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml cold water
150 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
500 grams coconut oil
500 grams olive oil
Essential oils (2%)
2 teaspoons (10 ml or 200 drops) essential oils of your choice
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to water in glass
measuring cup. Fold the plate over on itself to create a spout and pour the lye slowly into the water.
The lye will heat up the water and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the cup of water with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye
solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 105°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace.
At this point, stir in the essential oils that you are using. Continue blending with a stick blender until the
soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just
a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Wait till the soap is completely cool. Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6
weeks before packaging it.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 15
Specialty Soap Recipes
Laundry Stain Remover Bar This is the kind of soap our grandmother’s used to remove stains and grease from clothes, sheets, and
tablecloths. The soap is pure tallow soap with essential oils added for fragrance. A small amount of
coconut oil is added to this recipe to increase the lather. These are usually scented with lavender
essential oil or lemon essential oil.
Yield: 9 – 5 ounce bars
Ingredients:
Lye Portion:
150 grams of lye (sodium hydroxide)
300 ml of water
Oil portion:
300 grams coconut oil
700 grams of tallow
Essential oils:
2 teaspoons lemon essential oil
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber
gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to
water in glass measuring cup. The lye will
heat up the water and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the cup of water with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye
solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 105°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 16
At this point, stir in the essential oils that you are using. Continue blending with a stick blender until the
soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just
a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it.
To use:
Dampen the fabric that needs stain removal. Rub the dry bar of laundry stain remover on the stain,
covering the entire stain. Leave on for one hour. Wash as usual.
Before drying check if the stain is removed. Drying stained clothing in the dryer will set the stain, making
it more difficult to remove. If the stain is not completely removed in one treatment, repeat the
treatment without drying the cloth in between.
Do not iron the stain.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 17
Skin Care Soaps
Rose Soap A lovely rose scented soap. You can use rose petal infused olive oil in this soap recipe or regular olive oil
if you don’t have any rose infused oil on hand.
Yield: 9 – 5 ounce bars
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml rose bud tea (use ¼ cup rose
buds and 2 cups of water)
160 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
500 grams coconut oil
300 grams rose infused olive oil
200 grams jojoba oil
Essential oils (2%)
1 teaspoon rose geranium essential oil
½ teaspoon frankincense essential oil
½ teaspoon grapefruit essential oil
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to cooled tea in glass
measuring cup. The lye will heat up the tea and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the cup of tea with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye
solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 105°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 18
At this point, stir in the essential oils that you are using. Continue blending with a stick blender until the
soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just
a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it.
Green Tea Soap Green tea is rich in antioxidants and is a known for restoring skin cells and preventing free radical
damage.
Yield: 9 – 5 ounce bars
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml green tea(use 2 tablespoons green tea leaves and 2 cups of water)
150 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
500 grams coconut oil
300 grams rose infused olive oil
200 grams avocado butter
Essential oils (2%)
1 teaspoon bergamot essential oil
½ teaspoon frankincense essential oil
½ teaspoon sandalwood essential oil
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to cooled tea in glass
measuring cup. The lye will heat up the tea and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the cup of tea with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye
solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 19
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 105°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace.
At this point, stir in the essential oils that you are using. Continue blending with a stick blender until the
soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just
a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it.
Calendula Soap A healing complexion bar of soap for sensitive skin.
Yield: 9 – 5 ounce bars
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml calendula flower tea (use ¼ cup
calendula blossoms and 2 cups of water)
150 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
500 grams coconut oil
300 grams sunflower petal infused olive oil
200 grams sunflower oil
Essential oils (2%)
1 teaspoon tea tree essential oil
½ teaspoon frankincense essential oil
½ teaspoon lavender essential oil
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 20
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to cooled tea in glass
measuring cup. The lye will heat up the tea and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the cup of tea with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye
solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 105°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace.
At this point, stir in the essential oils that you are using. Continue blending with a stick blender until the
soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just
a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it.
Anti-itch Oats and Honey Soap Another healing complexion bar of soap for
sensitive skin, rashes, and skin problems.
Yield: 9 – 5 ounce bars
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml water
147 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
500 grams coconut oil
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 21
300 grams olive oil
200 grams shea butter
Additions:
1 cup of oatmeal, finely powdered
Essential oils (2%)
2 teaspoons of lavender essential oil
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to water in glass
measuring cup. The lye will heat up the water and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the cup of water with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye
solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 105°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace. Add the powdered oatmeal and stir well to combine.
At this point, stir in the essential oils that you are using. Continue blending with a stick blender until the
soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just
a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 22
Coffee Soap A hand cleaning soap that removes goo and odors, leaving them soft, clean, and odor free.
Yield: 9 – 5 ounce bars
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml strong coffee or espresso,
cooled
150 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
500 grams coconut oil
300 grams olive oil
200 grams cocoa butter
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to coffee in glass
measuring cup. The lye will heat up the coffee and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the cup of coffee with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the
lye solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 105°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace. Add ground coffee.
Continue blending with a stick blender until the soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the
surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 23
Pumpkin Spice Soap A fun soap to celebrate harvest season.
Yield: 9 x 5 ounce bars
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml water
160 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
300 grams coconut oil
500 grams calendula infused olive oil
100 grams cocoa butter
100 grams pumpkin seed oil
Herbs
¼ cup pumpkin puree
2 tablespoons cinnamon spice
Essential oils (1%)
20 drops cinnamon essential oil
10 drops frankincense essential oil
10 drops clove bud essential oil
10 drops ginger essential oil
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to cold water in glass
measuring cup. The lye will heat up the water and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the water with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye
solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 24
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 125°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace.
At this point, stir in the essential oils that you are using, along with the pumpkin puree and the
cinnamon spice. Continue blending with a stick blender until the soap is well blended and a trail of soap
dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow it to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
This soap may be softer than some of the other soap in this book. Wait until it is completely cool before
cutting.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it. Due to the
pumpkin puree in this bar, it should be allowed to dry fully before packaging.
Peppermint Patty Soap This soap was a best seller at our Christmas craft markets. I couldn’t keep it in stock.
Yield: 9 x 5 ounce bars
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml strong peppermint tea
140 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
300 grams coconut oil
500 grams olive oil
200 grams cocoa butter
Herbs
¼ cup cocoa powder
Essential oils (2%)
2 teaspoons peppermint essential oil
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 25
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to cold peppermint
tea in glass measuring cup. The lye will heat up the water and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in
the fumes.
Stir the lye in the tea with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye solution
to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 125°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace.
At this point, stir in the cocoa powder and peppermint essential oil. Continue blending with a stick
blender until the soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on
the surface. Just a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow it to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Wait until it is completely cool before cutting.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 27
Shampoo Bars Solid shampoo bars are more gentle on the hair than commercial shampoos. They will not strip color
treated hair and are kind and gentle greying hair. Those who have thinning hair may find that switching
to natural shampoo bars halts the thinning process.
When you shampoo with a natural herbal shampoo bar always follow the rinse with a rinse with infused
vinegar ( use 2 tablespoons of infused cider vinegar with 1 cup of water to rinse.) Use a final rinse of
plain water to leave your hair soft and shiny.
Chamomile Shampoo Bars for Fair Hair A shampoo bar especially formulated for fair hair to bring out blonde highlights.
Yield: 9 – 5 ounce bars
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml strong chamomile tea (use ¼ cup
chamomile flowers and 2 cups of water)
147 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
500 grams coconut oil
300 grams olive oil
200 grams castor oil
Essential oils (2%)
2 teaspoons lemon essential oil
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to tea in glass
measuring cup. The lye will heat up the tea and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the cup of tea with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye
solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 28
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 105°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace.
At this point, stir in the essential oils that you are using. Continue blending with a stick blender until the
soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just
a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it.
To use:
Wet hair as usual. Rub the shampoo bar on damp hair to create a light lather. Shampoo as usual. Rinse
hair in warm water. Rub the bar a second time over damp hair. Lather. Rinse.
Use chamomile infused vinegar as a final rinse to restore the pH of the hair, reduce tangling, and
improve the texture and shine of the hair after using a shampoo bar. Rinse with tepid water after the
vinegar treatment.
Rosemary Shampoo Bars for Dark Hair A shampoo bar especially formulated for dark hair, with essential oils that encourage hair growth.
Yield: 9 – 5 ounce bars (140 grams)
Ingredients:
Water/Lye Portion
300 ml strong rosemary tea (use ¼
cup rosemary leaves and 2 cups of
water)
147 grams sodium hydroxide (lye)
Oil portion:
500 grams coconut oil
300 grams olive oil
200 grams castor oil
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 29
Essential oils (2%)
1 teaspoon rosemary essential oil
½ teaspoon sweet marjoram
½ teaspoon lavender
Directions:
While wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves, weigh lye on paper plate. Add lye to tea in glass
measuring cup. The lye will heat up the tea and release caustic fumes. Do not breathe in the fumes.
Stir the lye in the cup of tea with a wooden spoon to completely dissolve all lye crystals. Allow the lye
solution to reduce in temperature to 100°F to 105°F.
Meanwhile, measure the oils in an 8 cup glass measuring cup. Place the glass measuring cup in a warm
place or in the microwave to fully melt the oils. Remove the oils from the heat when some of the oils
remain solid and are floating on the top of the oil. Stir the oils to melt the remaining oils using residual
heat. Allow the oils to cool to 100°F to 105°F.
When both the oil and the lye are cooled to 100°F to 105°F, pour the lye solution into the liquid oils.
Use a stick blender to blend the lye solution and the oils together. Continue stirring until the mixture
reaches thin trace.
At this point, stir in the essential oils that you are using. Continue blending with a stick blender until the
soap is well blended and a trail of soap dripped on the surface of the soap, remains on the surface. Just
a few more minutes after trace.
Pour the soap recipe into a prepared mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to get as much of the soap as
possible into the mold. Cover the soap with plastic wrap or a lid, and allow to set completely.
Keep the soap warm by wrapping the mold in a towel.
The soap will go through a gel phase indicative of saponification.
Leave the soap overnight to complete saponification. In the morning remove the soap from the molds.
Cut into bars. Stack the bars on a flat surface to cure for 3 to 6 weeks before packaging it.
To use:
Wet hair as usual. Rub the shampoo bar on damp hair to create a light lather. Shampoo as usual. Rinse
hair in warm water. Rub the bar a second time over damp hair. Lather. Rinse.
Use rosemary and thyme infused vinegar as a final rinse to restore the pH of the hair, reduce tangling,
and improve the texture and shine of the hair after using a shampoo bar. Rinse with tepid water after
the vinegar treatment.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 30
Use this worksheet to create your own soap recipes based on the oils and herbs that you have on hand.
Use a lye calculator to calculate the amount of lye that you need for each recipe based on the oils and
fats that you are using for the soap.
Soap Making Worksheet Soap name: ______________________
Yield: _______________
Lye solution
Liquid ________________________ml.
Lye amount ___________________gms.
Superfat lye reduction __________%
Oils
__________________________grams ___%
__________________________grams ___%
__________________________grams ___%
__________________________grams ___%
__________________________grams ___%
_________________________ml/drops essential oil
_________________________ml/drops essential oil
_________________________ml/drops essential oil
_________________________ml/drops essential oil
Directions: Follow usual soap procedures. You can print the directions with most lye calculators.
Observe ALL safety precautions for cold processed soap.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 31
How to Create Your Own Soap Recipes
How much total oils and liquid do you need?
25% of the soap is water/tea
75% of the soap is a mixture of oils (For hardness and lather - coconut oil – 30 to 50% of the oils; For
gentleness olive oil 30% of the oils; Moisturizing -- A rich oil or butter 20% of the oils) Total 1 kg (1000
grams) of oils, fats, and butters.
2% essential oils (2 teaspoons or 200 drops for a 3 pound batch of soap)
How to use a lye calculator When creative folks like you, follow a recipe in the kitchen, there’s always the temptation to substitute
ingredients. Maybe use a little hazelnut oil to replace olive oil in a salad dressing recipe or fry the
mushrooms up in butter instead of the coconut oil that the recipe calls for.
Don’t do that in soap making, without putting the entire recipe through a lye calculator with the
substitute oils. Successful soap making requires that all the lye is 100% used up in the saponification
process. That requires exact measurement of both the lye and the oil. Different oils have different
saponification values (SAP numbers).
The SAP number is the number of milligrams of lye or potassium hydroxide required to completely
saponify one gram of a specific fat. When I first started soap making in 1982, a person had to use
algebra to figure out the exact weight of lye to use with each kind of oil. With the internet a lye
calculator is already programmed with the SAP values for each oil. All you need to do is put in the
weight of oils in grams and then the lye calculator will return the range of lye in grams that you need.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 32
Most lye calculators also give you different lye discounts so you can choose whether you want a smaller
lye discount for a cleaning bar or a larger lye discount for a moisturizing bar.
Every lye calculator is a little different, so expect a short learning curve when you first access it. But
once you get one that you like book mark it so you can come back to it.
All lye calculators will give you the amount of lye for a fixed amount of oil. Some will also let you know
whether the resulting soap is moisturizing or cleansing, hard or soft, with a lather that is bubbly or
creamy.
Here are a few lye calculators to try out: SoapCalc http://soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp
Brambleberry https://www.brambleberry.com/pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
Magestic Mountain Sage -- https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html
Final Thoughts This is just the beginning of soap making. There is a whole world of natural herbal soap making to
explore. Once you are confident in working with lye you will be ready to experiment with your own
recipes using a lye calculator to create your own special formulas.
I’m excited that you are mastering the basics and I know that an amazing journey of herbal soap making
awaits you.
©Christine Dalziel, 2018 Page 33
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Chris is a teacher, author, gardener, and herbalist with 35+ years’ of growing herbs and formulating herbal remedies,
skin care products, soaps, and candles. She teaches workshops and writes extensively about gardening, herbal
crafts, scratch cooking, and medicinal herbs on her blog at JoybileeFarm.com . Chris is the founder of the DIY
Herbal Fellowship and an instructor at the Joybilee Academy. Chris believes in giving her readers a quick win
because each quick win builds confidence and empowers intuition for further self-reliance and joy.
Chris is the author of the The Beginner’s Book of Essential Oils, Learning to Use Your First 10 Essential Oils
with Confidence (2015) and Homegrown Healing, from Seed to Apothecary (2016), and “The Beeswax Workshop,
How to Make Your Own Natural Candles, Cosmetics, Cleaners, Soaps, Healing Balms and More” (2017)
Chris empowers women to reclaim their intuition and inner strength in nourishing and healing their
families, deeply rooted in their homes, with joyful, intentional, self-reliance.