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Beyond Design
By Sandra J. Keiser and Myrna B. Garner
PowerPoint developed by Elizabeth Law
Copyright 2009 Fairchild Books
All rights reserved. No part of this presentation covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any meansgraphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systemswithout written permission of the publisher.
ISBN: 978-1-56367-960-5
GST R 133004424
Garment Styling
Chapter 7 Beyond Design
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Chapter Objectives
Explore various methods of recording design ideas and experimenting with styling options
Understand how to use design elements in combination with design principles to create an aesthetically pleasing garment
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Chapter Objectives
Recognize various classifications of garments for men, women, and children
Understand style variables for each silhouette classification
Understand how design details add interest to garment styling
Anticipate how design details affect garment cost and production scheduling
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Garment Styling
Fashion dynamic - perpetual change Product developers identify core themes to
translate into items customer will buy Society more casual, fashion more item-
driven; more pressure on product developers
Silhouettes tend to evolve
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Methods of Developing Design Ideas
Design process parallels research process Goal: meet needs of target customer
Match customers aesthetic preferences Produce within target price point Relate to consumers lifestyle
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Methods of Developing Design Ideas
Derivative approachsamples purchased, interpreted in developers own colorways and fabrications
Innovative approachinspiration collected from primary sources, then interpreted in totally original ways
Most development falls somewhere between
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Methods for Developing Design Ideas
Techniques: Study primary resource such as historic or
cultural artifacts Buy actual garments for their silhouette, fit,
fabrication, or detailing Collect swipes, or tear sheets, from
magazines and Internet Sketch designs observed while doing market
research
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Studying Primary Resources
Results in most original design ideas High-end designers travel to exotic locales Memberships to costume collections Costume exhibitions Cultural artifacts
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Purchased Garments Derivative developers have largest budgets to
purchase samples from which their own line will be developed
Branded developers have smaller budgets used only for samples from which they want to interpret a fabric, fit, detail, or construction technique
Very small product developers have no budget for purchasing samples; must interpret trends from tear sheets and websites
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Printed Sources and the Internet
Runway fashion conveyed almost instantly Sources once only in print, now in real
time, some free, others by subscription Developers use these sources to create
concept boards - collection of images, sketches, and swatches express design direction
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Sketches
Record and explore design ideas When shopping, carry small sketchbook,
making note of unique ideas, details, or proportions
Where possible, try on garments; can measure or study construction in dressing room
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Sketches
Thumbnail sketches can be made after leaving a store to reference a silhouette change or simply an interesting detail
Flats two-dimensional drawings that represent how garment looks when spread out on flat surface
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Sketches Silhouette ideas are generally developed as croquis
sketches Freehand May use an underlay figure slid under page as a template Floats include a garment sketch without the body
Ideas can also be developed as flats, 2-D representations of the garment spread out flat rather than on a body
Some designers prefer to work digitally; tablets enable designers to sketch on the computer or hand sketches can be scanned in order to add color and fabric on computer
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Design Elements and Principles
When used together, create appealing garments that enhance wearers appearance, create appealing garments
Design organization of design elements, using design principles, to create products that are considered aesthetically pleasing to the observer
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Design Elements and Principles
Designer work with design elements and principles in creative, original way
Stylists adapt the ideas of others
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Design Elements
Building blocks of design; intrinsic to every product, including apparel Line Color Texture Pattern Silhouette Shape
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Line
Determines silhouette of garment and shapes formed within it
Internal lines seams and edges; fabric patterns and textures; tucks, pleats, darts, gathers, linear trim
Optical illusions Vertical lines elongate, slim figure Horizontal lines shorten, widen figure
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Color
Initially attracts a customer to a garment Can create illusions
Warm colors draw in viewer and make area appear larger
Cool colors recede and make area appear smaller
Darker colors slimming, illusion of height, one-color ensemble
Bright colors illusions of bulk, call attention to figure
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Texture
Texture surface or hand of fabric Attributed to fabrics characteristics - fiber,
yarn, construction, weight, and finish Fabrics hand affects how it drapes Texture affects how we see color
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Texture
Some textures make the figure look larger (shiny, pile, stiff); others identify the bodys natural curves (drapey, clingy, sheer)
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Pattern Created by
Texture of fabric Constructed into fabric through weaving, knitting, or felting Applied to fabric through printing, embossing, or other
techniques
Popularity subject to fashion cycles Create figure illusions Large patterns not appropriate for close-fitting
garments or garments with lots of seams
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Silhouette
Silhouette outer shape of garment Size and shape of silhouette is first thing
we see when garment on body; cannot be seen clearly on hanger
Sometimes described by letters A, H, T, V, or Y
Also described by shape (trapezoid, tent, hourglass, pear, or bell)
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Silhouette
May be identified as periods from history (Empire or flapper)
Need to be comfortable and functional Evolve slowly
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Shape
The silhouette is frequently sectioned off into smaller shapes within garment using seam lines, details, and garment edges Adds styling and interest to silhouette Helps achieve fit Allows combination of two or more fabrics Allows designer to create optical illusions
through line Creates symmetrical or asymmetrical balance
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Shape
Important tool for achieving harmony within garment
Coordinates should be evaluated so shapes are related
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Design Principles
Describe the way design elements are combined into a pleasing whole Proportion Balance Emphasis or Focal Point Rhythm Harmony or Unity
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Proportion
Relationship or scale of all garments or ensembles parts to each other and to the body as a whole
Horizontal lines divide garment or ensemble into sections - waistline seams or jacket and top edges
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Proportion
Uneven proportions (2:3, 3:5, 5:8) are the most pleasing to the eye no matter what the era (Golden Mean)
Most garment proportions follow golden mean, but some equal proportions also exist
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Balance
Balance sense of stability or equilibrium Symmetrical garment same on both sides Asymmetrical garment different on both
sides of the middle
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Emphasis or Focal Point
Emphasis or focal point first place on garment the eye is drawn
Created through a convergence of lines, combination of colors, or detail
If several elements of the design are competing for the viewers attention, the garment may be overdesigned
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Rhythm
Rhythm organized movement of the eye through related elements of a garment
The eye should move naturally through the entire garment
Achieved by strong silhouette lines through use of color, line, or shape and through repetition, radiation, and gradation
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Harmony or Unity
Successful placement of a focal point that suggests rhythm is key to achieving harmony or unity in design
All design elements work together in a garment to produce a pleasing aesthetic appearance and to give a feeling of unity
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Harmony or Unity
Anti-fashion movements may purposely break rules of design in order to call attention to a certain look
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Understanding the Dynamics of Fashion Change
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Garment Variations by Category
Western dress basic classifications of garments typically worn by men, women, and children
Within each classification, certain elements vary from season to season according to fashion trends and specific needs of target markets
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Garment Variations by Category
Style variables garment characteristics that contribute to shape, fit, and identity; include length, degree of fit, how it hangs from the body, fullness or flare, cut of armscye, and neckline style
Shaping devices needed when garment fits close to body; seams, darts, gathers, and pleats
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Tops
Tops and T-Shirts Cut and sew construction pieces cut from
fabric rather than knit into shape Sweaters
Full-fashion some part knit to shape Pullovers, cardigans, sweater sets, twin
sets
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Tops
Shirts and blouses Jackets and vests Outerwear jackets and coats Dresses
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Bottoms
Surround the lower body Skirts Pants
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Garment Details
Provide means of changing silhouettes, embellish and provide visual link to fashion theme
Component parts elements not part of basic structure but add aesthetic interest or provide functionality (necklines and collars, cuffs, pockets, belts)
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Garment Details
Decorative effects embellishment added to fabric (smocking, quilting, tucking, etc.)
Trims details added to the garment (buttons, braids, lace)
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Component Parts/Collars
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Component Parts
Necklines and Collars Sleeves and Cuffs Pockets Belts
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Closures
Get a garment on and off the body If sufficient stretch in garment, fabric may
make a closure unnecessary Various types of zippers, button closures,
tie closures, hooks and eyes, Velcro hook and loop fasteners, and snaps
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Planning and Sourcing for Garment Details
Options for planning detail Ready-made Studios that sell prototypes that may be
copied or adapted to developers line In-house graphic artists
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Planning and Sourcing for Garment Details
Costs vary greatly depending on where sourced Handwork too costly in U.S. but may be
affordable in low-wage country Use of trim houses with special machinery
may need more time for color matching, productions samples, and shipping
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