CARPET & TEXTILE CARPET & TEXTILE SPOTTING MANUAL©SPOTTING MANUAL©
COPYRIGHTCOPYRIGHT
BY JAMES B. SMITHBY JAMES B. SMITH
ALL RIGHTS RESERVEDALL RIGHTS RESERVED
OVERVIEW
I. DEFINITIONS/RULES
II. CHEMICAL TERMS
III. TOOLS OF THE TRADE
IV. PRE-INSPECTION & IDENTIFICATION
V. TYPES OF SPOTS
Water soluble
Solvent Soluble
Insoluble
Dye & Pigment
Penetrating
Damaging
Spots That Are Difficult To Remove
VI. OXIDIZERS & REDUCERS
VII. TECHNIQUES IN REMOVING
VIII. SPOTTING CHART
I. DEFINITIONS
Definitions from the S001-1994 CLEANING STANDARD says this about spots and stains:Page 37spot - The result of a material adding substance or texture to a fabric or surface. Usually the terms "spot" and "stain" are used interchangeably in a non-technical context.spotting - The process of treating isolated spots and stains, that do not respond to normal cleaning with, specifically formulated agents.stain - the result in a material adding color (without texture) to a fabric or surface, in a non-technical context. The term "stain" is often applied to discoloration, or color removal from fabrics, as well.Consumer responsibility for spots and stains in the S001-1994 CLEANING STANDARD says this:3. Immediate Spotting - Most spots can be removed easily if the excess is lifted or blotted and treated immediately by carpet owners with plain water, or with spotters containing mild (pH range of 5 to 9), dilute detergents that do not leave residue. If ignored those spots, or components thereof, may bond with fiber dye sites, forming permanent stains. Immediate spotting is an essential responsibility for home and business owners/managers.Concerning what the consumer can expect from the cleaner is says this on page 8:g. Special attention to spots and stains must be included in normal job performance. However, time consuming specialized spotting of quantities of spilled materials or prolonged effort on color-added spots may incur an additional charge. Customers should be advised of additional charges before extensive spotting procedures are undertaken.
Rules for Spotting.APPEARANCE - Spots that are lighter than the surrounding unaffected area are the result of color loss. Spots that are darker than the surrounding unaffected areas are the result of something added. Spots that end-up changing in different light and diminish or disappear in direct intense light are the result of texture variations, usually from over aggressive mechanical action.
.HEALTH & SAFETY - Protect yourself with gloves, face mask, and respirator when using dangerous chemicals. Dangerous chemicals such as Erusticator, and strippers, and some solvents should be rinsed out completely after using.
.CHEMICALS - Physically remove as must excess of the spot as possible before adding chemicals. VDS is the first chemical to use on an unknown spot. Strong oxidizers, strippers are the last chemicals to use.
.APPLICATION - Do not distort the texture of the fiber. Tap and blot, do not brush and rub. Work from the outside of the spot to the inside. Blot up excessive usage of chemicals. Wait to evaluate the results.
I. Chemical TermsACETIC ACID- Acetic acid, HC2H3O2, pH 2.4, is a self neutralizing, evaporating acid of which whitevinegar is a 5 to 7% solution. White vinegar can be made into a tannin spotter by mixing it with twoparts water. Professional concentrations of acetic acid vary from 5 to 28%.Acetic acid is most suitable for applications that require starting with an acid and then switching toan alkaline or vise-versa. It is not a satisfactory remedy for pH problems on yellowing and indicatordyes.
AMMONIA & AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE - Ammonia, (NH3) is a gas while ammonium hydroxide,(NH4OH), is an alkaline liquid. Ammonium hydroxide will self neutralize its pH after being applied toa textile.Ammonium hydroxide is not a suitable for correcting problems with acid residues such as in thecase of color changes from indicator dyes.
ENZYMES - The enzyme component of a spotter or prespray is an extract from a live microbe, butis not a living thing. Two advantages that distinguishes enzymes from other detergent componentsare: it decomposes components of soil with no effects on the textile it is not used up or consumed in the process.This is in contrast to alkali, solvents, and surfactants that can cause ill effects on the textile and areconsumed in the process of removing soil.Disadvantages of enzymes are they will slow down or stop working if the pH and temperature arenot right. With the arrival of Enzyme Presprays, the pH of many products is much higher than theproducts of the 80’s.
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE - Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), is a liquid that ismade from O-Zone (O3) reacting with water, (H2O). The result is a mediumstrength acid oxygen bleach that is suitable for spotting textile inconcentrations under 5%. Hydrogen peroxide does its work when it breaksdown and can be accelerated by adding a trace of ammonium hydroxide.Phosphoric acid will stabilize hydrogen peroxide and prevent it fromreacting and acetic acid will react making a new compound called per-acetic acid. Per-acetic acid can bleach the color from nylon and should beconsidered a strong oxidizer. Hydrogen peroxide left un-reacted canincrease in concentration in the drying process causing damage to textiles,specially on natural fibers such as cotton.
pH - pH is the standard method for describing acidity or alkalinity. It is ascale that starts with 0 and goes to 14, with 7 being neutral or pure water.Below 7 is an acid and above 7 an alkaline. A change of one represents a10 fold increase or decrease in the amount of acidity or alkalinity.Expanded understanding of acids and alkalines reactions includesinformation on molar strengths, (concentrations) and the reactivity, ( G).For example sulfamic acid has a very low pH of 0.47, but is not veryreactive.
SODIUM PER-CARBONATE - Sodium per-carbonate is a powder, alkaline, oxygen bleach that is madefrom hydrogen peroxide and soda ash. It is suitable as a detergent booster or spotting agent. Sodiumper-carbonate can leave an alkaline residue in excess of pH 11.
VOLATILE DRY SPOTTER, (VDS) - Commonly this product is or was 1,1,1 trichloroethane, (CH3CCl3)which is a slightly flammable, fast evaporating dry-solvent. Due to changes in the law, newer Volatile DrySpotters are blends of possibly more toxic and/or flammable solvents. Volatile Dry Spotter should be thefirst spotter used on an unknown spot. It is not totally effective on paint without the help of non-volatilesolvents.
NON-VOLATILE DRY SPOTTER, (NVDS) - Commonly referred to as POG or PAINT, OIL, & GREASEREMOVER, is a blend of solvents that is mixed into a crude refinement of petroleum. As such, some ofthis blend will not. Evaporate completely. Non-Volatile Dry Spotter slows down the evaporation rate ofVolatile Dry Spotter and is an essential step in removing some forms of paint. Some newer products aremore ‘gel like’ and are made of blends of water and d-limonene.
SPOTTING KIT CHECK LIST
A. Regular
1. VDS- Volatile Dry Spotter
2. NVDS - Non-Volatile Dry Spotter
3. General Spotter - neutral pH
4. Alkaline Spotter
5. Enzyme Spotter
6. Tannin Spotter
7. Ammonium Hydroxide
8. Hydrogen Peroxide
9. Sodium Percarbonate
10. Bisulifite or Coffee Stain Remover
11. Rust Remover
12. Towels
13. Bone Scrapper
A. ADVANCED
1. Steam Iron
2. Steam Gun
3. Sodium Hydrosulfite
4. Strong Oxygen Bleach
SPOTTING KIT CHECK LIST
A. The first step in identification is to ASK the consumer what thestain is.
B. The second step comes from SIGHT.
1. A splash or irregular pattern likely came from something spilt.
2. A pattern such as circular or rectangular probably came fromsomething laid on the surface.
3. A shiny stain is likely from
a) Hardened Oil
b) Paint
c) Varnish
d) Nail Polish
4. A dull appearance that lightens when scratched is likely fromfood.
5. A spot that is lighter than its surrounding was likely caused bya bleaching agent or from color loss.
PRE-INSPECTION & IDENTIFICATION
A. The third step comes from TOUCH. Categories for touch are as follows: crusty, hard, soft, tacky, oily, wet, and waxy.
B. The fourth step comes from SMELL. This may be the best instrument for identification, but it is subjective too. Also, caution should be given concerning inhaling toxins from chemicals and bacteria.
C. pH is important when a spot does not respond to solvents. pH reading from an electronic instrument will likely be less than those taken from paper or strips. This is so because moisture on paper or strips will ultimately measure the dry pH while pH Pens measure a diluted pH at the time of the reading.
I. TYPE OF STAINS
A. Water Soluble Stains
1. Respond to acids
a) Beer
b) Cocktails
c) Wine
2. Respond to alkaline
a) Soil
A. Dry Solvent Soluble Stains
1. Volatile Dry Solvent Types
a) Tar
b) Grease
2. Non-Volatile Dry Solvent types - Paint
A. Insoluble Stains
1. Food that relate to Enzymes
a) Blood
b) Catsup & Tomato Sauce
c) Chocolate
d) Cough Syrup
e) Egg (Raw)
f) Gravy
g) Grass
h) Jelly & Jam
i) Ice Cream
j) Mercurochrome
k) Mildew
l) Milk
m) Mucilage
n) Mustard
o) Soft Drinks
p) Urine
q) Vomit
r) Wine
1. Other insoluble that relate to Vacuuming
a) Copy machine toner
b) Fingerprint dust
A. Pigment type stains that relate to oxidizer and reducer or heattransferred technique
1. Coffee
2. Dye
3. Tea
4. Medicine
5. Rust
6. Urine
A. PENETRATING STAINS
1. Coffee
2. Tea
3. Urine
4. Dye
A. DAMAGING STAINS
1. Strong Bleaches
2. Strong Oxidizers
3. Some Acids
A. SPOTS THAT ARE DIFFICULT TO REMOVE
1. Very Difficult
a) Asphalt Tracking
b) Food Coloring
c) Grass
d) Mustard
e) Paint
f) Soot
g) Urine
h) Yellowing (some forms)
i) Wine
1. Likely Impossible
a) Furniture Stain
b) Ink, depends upon type
c) Mercurochrome
d) Mustard after it has reacted with alkali
Stains that set with heat
a) Blood
b) Catsup & Tomato Sauce
c) Chocolate
d) Milk
e) Soft Drinks?
f) Urine especially on wool
Stains that set with alkali
a) Coffee on silk & wool
b) Mustard
c) Urine
OXIDIZERS & REDUCERS
A. TYPES OF REDUCERS
1. Sodium Thio-Sulfite - bleach neutralizers
2. Sodium Meta-bisulfite - coffee stain removers
3. Sodium Hydrosulfite - red stain remover
4. Rust stain remover
A. TYPE OF OXIDIZERS
1. Hydrogen Peroxide - coffee stain removers
2. Sodium PerCarbonate - a detergent booster
A. RULES
1. Make hydrogen peroxide work faster with ammoniumhydroxide
2. Speed up acid reducers with acids or tannin spotter
3. Stop an oxidizer with a mild reducer and vise-versa
4. Rinse strong oxidizers and reducers after using
5. Wait until spot is dry to evaluate the results
A. WARNINGS
1. Do not mix strong oxidizers and strong reducers
2. Use the correct oxidizer or reducer for job intended
3. Do not store ready-to-use solutions for a prolongedtime.
I. TECHNIQUES IN REMOVING SPOTS & STAINS
A. Just Vacuuming
1. Copy Toner
2. Mud After It Dries
A. Spray & Blot
1. Browning
2. Yellowing
B. Spray & Rinse
1. Stains That Has Been Made Soluble
A. Heat Transfer
1. Candle Wax
a) Brown Paper Bags or Viva® or Brawny® Towels
b) Iron
2. Dyes
a) White cotton towels
b) Iron
c) Ammonium hydroxide or special chemical
I. THE SPOTTING GUIDE This section is designed for the professional cleaner with professional cleaning products. It may not be necessary to complete all of the steps in removing some spots, therefore do not carry out all of the chemical procedures if the spot disappears, however always rinse or blot excessive residues and dangerous chemicals before leaving the job.
BEERAPPEARANCESlightly yellow and slightly stiffCONTAINS - Hops, malts, alcohol, albumins, tannin1. Apply detergent solution and blot2. Apply tannin solution and rinse
BUTADIENE1. Apply bleach neutralizer solution such as sodium thio-sulfite2. Blot dry
BLOOD1. Remove as much excess as possible2. Apply cool alkaline enzyme spotter and wait3. Rinse with water4. Blot5. If stain remains apply rust remover6. If stain still remains rinse thoroughly and apply 3% hydrogen peroxide Do not mix rust remover and hydrogen peroxide
BUTTER & MARGARINE1. Apply VDS Spotter2. Extract with alkaline detergent solution3. Apply acetic acid or tannin spotter and blot4. Extract and blot dry
CANDLE WAXMethod 11. Place several brown-paper products over spot2. Apply dry steam iron until bottom bag is saturated with wax3. Apply fresh bag to the top4. Repeat procedureMethod 21. Remove as much excess as possible2. Apply volatile dry solvent3. Apply POG4. Remove as much excess as possible5. Repeat procedure
CATSUP & TOMATO SAUCE1. Apply cool alkaline enzyme spotter and wait2. Rinse with water3. Blot or extract moisture4. If stain remains apply rust remover5. If stain still remains rinse thoroughly and apply 3% hydrogen peroxide Do not mix rust remover and hydrogen peroxide. A dangerous chemical reaction may
occur if you do!
CHEWING GUMMethod 11. Apply d-Limonene type product2. Extract with hot waterMethod 21. Harden the gum with ice or freon type product2. Remove as much excess as possible3. Apply volatile dry solvent4. Blot or extract
CHOCOLATE.Remove as much excess as possible.Apply alkaline-enzyme type preconditioner.Extract with acidic rinsing agent.Repeat if necessary.Blot
COCKTAILS.Apply tannin spotter
ExtractCoffeeMethod 1
.Apply tannin spotter
.ExtractMethod 2 - more aggressive
.Apply sodium meta-bisulfite
.Blot or extractIf cream is present, pretreatment with enzyme may be necessary
Alkalinizes may set stain in wool and silk
EGG (Raw).Remove as much excess as possible.Apply cool alkaline enzyme spotter and wait.Rinse with water
Dry
COUGH SYRUP.Apply alkaline preconditioner.Rinse with acidic rinsing solution.Apply enzyme spotter
Rinse
CRAYONS.Apply solvent base product.Blot
Extract with detergent
FOOD COLORING/DYEHeat transfer method.Apply ammonium hydroxide or formulated product to affected area.Lay wet white cotton towel on top of affected area.Place steam iron with water set barely in steam mode on top of towel for 45 to 90 seconds.Repeat as necessary
Steam Gun Method.Apply ammonium hydroxide or formulated product to affected area.Apply live steam to the affected area.Extract with hottest water possible
Reduction method.Apply sodium hydrosulfite solution to affected area.Accelerate with Tannin Spotter.Neutralize by rinsing with just water and then a mild oxygen bleach.Blot dry.Professional spot dye will likely be necessary
FRUIT JUICEFRUIT JUICE..Apply alkaline preconditionerApply alkaline preconditioner
..Rinse with acidic rinsing solutionRinse with acidic rinsing solution..If stain remains; Apply enzyme spotterIf stain remains; Apply enzyme spotter
RinseRinse
GLUE.Apply amyl acetate, blot or rinse with an extractor.Repeat as necessary
GRASS.Apply amyl acetate, blot.Apply enzyme detergent
GRAVY.Apply alkaline-enzyme type preconditioner.Extract with acidic rinsing agent
Repeat if necessary
FURNITURE STAINHeat transfer method
.Apply POG & blot
.Apply ammonium hydroxide or formulated product to affected area.Lay wet white cotton towel on top of affected area.Place steam iron with water set barley in steam mode on top of towel for 45 to 90 seconds.Repeat as necessary
Steam Gun Method.Apply POG & blot.Apply ammonium hydroxide or formulated product to affected area.Apply live steam to the affected area.Extract with hottest water possible
Reduction method.Apply POG & blot.Apply sodium hydrosulfite solution to affected area.Accelerate with Tannin Spotter.Neutralize by rinsing with just water or mild oxygen bleach.Blot dry
GREASE1. Apply solvent base product2. Rinse completely3. Repeat one and two if necessary4. Apply alkaline prespray if necessary5. Rinse with acidic rinsing agent
ICE CREAM1. Apply alkaline-enzyme type preconditioner2. Extract with acidic rinsing agent3. Repeat if necessary
INK1. Apply solvent base or specially formulated product for removing ink2. Rinse completely3. Repeat one and two if necessary4. Apply amyl acetate, if necessary5. If stain persists, apply ammonium hydroxide or formulated product to affected area6. Lay wet white cotton towel on top of affected area7. Place steam iron with water set barely in steam mode on top of towel for 45 to 90 seconds8. Repeat as necessary
JAM & JELLY.Apply alkaline-enzyme type preconditioner.Extract with acidic rinsing agent.Repeat if necessary
LIPSTICK.Apply amyl acetate or solvent based product & blot.Repeat as necessary.If stain persists, then apply alkaline preconditioner.Rinse with acidic rinsing agent
MERCUROCHROME.Apply alkaline-enzyme type preconditioner.Extract with acidic rinsing agent.Repeat as necessary.If stain persists, then apply Sodium Meta-Bisulfite Solution.Rinse
MERTHIOLATE.Apply bleach neutralizer solution such as sodium thio-sulfite.Blot dry
MILDEW.Apply alkaline-enzyme type preconditioner.Rinse.Repeat as necessary.If stain persists, then apply Oxygen Bleach Solution, such as 3% hydrogen peroxide.Blot or Rinse
MILK.Remove as much excess as possible.Apply cool alkaline enzyme spotter and wait.Rinse with acidic Rinsing Solution .If stain persists, then apply solvent based product & blot
MUCILAGE.Remove as much excess as possible.Apply alkaline enzyme spotter and wait.Rinse or blot dry
MUSTARDMethod 1
.Remove as much excess as possible
.Apply neutral pH detergent solution
.Rinse with acidic rinsing solution
.Apply enzyme detergent solution, with low pH
.If stain persists, apply rust remover or 3% hydrogen peroxide to stain, but not both. A dangerous chemical reaction may occur if you do!Do not apply any alkaline chemicals to this stain
Method 2.Apply a professional spotter design for removing mustard.Rinse or blot
NAIL POLISH.Remove as much excess as possible.Apply amyl acetate or solvent base product & blot.Repeat as necessary.If stain persists, then apply alkaline preconditioner.Rinse with acidic rinsing agent
OILS.Apply solvent based product & blot.Repeat as necessary.If stain persists, then apply alkaline preconditioner.Rinse with acidic rinsing agent
PAINT (OIL BASE)1. Remove as much excess as possible2. Apply POG product & blot3. Repeat as necessary4. If stain persists, then apply alkaline preconditioner5. Rinse with detergent solution6. Repeat all steps as necessary
PAINT (WATER BASE)1. Remove as much excess as possible2. Apply alkaline- preconditioner3. Rinse4. Repeat as necessary5. If stain persists, then apply POG6. Rinse completely
RUBBER CEMENT1. Remove as much excess as possible2. Apply POG product & blot3. Repeat as necessary4. If stain persists, then apply alkaline preconditioner5. Rinse
RUST1. Apply professional rust remover2. Rinse or neutralize completely
SHOE POLISH1. Apply solvent base product & blot2. Repeat as necessary3. If stain persists, then apply alkaline preconditioner4. Rinse completely5. if stain persists, then treat as FOOD COLORING/DYE
SOFT DRINK1. Apply cool alkaline enzyme spotter and wait2. Rinse with acidic Rinsing Solution3. If stain persists, then repeat as necessary
SOOT1. Apply solvent based product & blot2. Repeat as necessary3. If stain persists, then apply alkaline preconditioner4. Rinse completely This stain is very difficult to remove
TAR & ASPHALT1. Remove as much excess as possible2. Apply solvent base product3. Repeat as necessary4. If stain persists, then apply alkaline preconditioner5. Rinse
TOOTHPASTE1. Precondition with acidic detergent2. Rinse with alkaline detergent3. Blot dry
URINE.Apply enzyme/bacteria type deodorizer as per manufacturer instructions.Rinse.Apply ammonium hydroxide solution & blot.Apply tannin spotter & blot, phosphoric acid may work the best.Rinse completely.If stain persists, apply rust remover or 3% hydrogen peroxide to stain, but not both. A dangerous chemical reaction may occur if you do!Heat and alkalinity may set some stains especially on wool
VOMIT.Remove as much excess as possible.Apply alkaline-enzyme type preconditioner.Extract with acidic rinsing agent.Repeat if necessary
WINE.Apply neutral pH detergent solution.Rinse with acidic rinsing solution.Apply alkaline enzyme detergent solution.If stain persists, apply rust remover or 3% hydrogen peroxide to stain, but not both. A dangerous chemical reaction may occur if you do!